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EUC

Found 25 results

  1. I was out riding with some friends, recording with the GoPro, etc as usual. Some holes are less visible than others and I wasn't paying much attention. Usually I will scan before turning away. This time I did not.. and I adjusted my feet and posture as well which I usually do rather stiff legged. And also.. I was riding squishy FW 1.05. I went down into a little hole... and out again.. the wheel slowed down going out... my body continued forward... I started to fall off the front, the wheel tried to speed up but I fell off the front anyway. Took a few steps, rolled my left ankle on the fourth step. Fell down on my right forearm and knee, then my right hip made contact and my body did a corkscrew so that I ended up on my right side towards my back. So.. some scrapes... but man.. the wheel fell badly. I would have rather taken more hits just spare the wheel man!!! Spare the wheel! Take me instead! Here is what the wheel sounds like now. There is a big difference in noise between FW 1.05 and FW 2.02. The pedal hanger is a bit bent but it is good enough. I will suit up tomorrow or the day after and ride it. After 8400km I can't really be bothered to throw money at this wheel.. even though I do love it. Here is a clip I made... the first 45 seconds contains the important parts. I didn't have any pictures of myself in shock that I could use as a thumbnail so I hope a shot of the internals will suffice.
  2. One of my strip is pretty much dead, my soldering won't hold the shaky rides. I want to replace them but was wondering if I could use any type of strip, like ones with way more LED so it's more of a line then distant spotting. Anyone know how the light program will react to more led on the strip?
  3. Hope everyone is staying safe in the middle of this pandemic. With the quarantine situation here in New York, I’ve had some time to tinker around my shop and decided to mod by KS16X with a rear camera system. Living in a dense urban environment like New York, taxis, crazy drivers, and cyclists often sneak up from behind quickly. I personally use helmet mirrors most of the time (thanks to @Marty Backe), however this is a good alternative for my helmets that do not have mirrors. The most important points of this mod to me are: 1) ease of use 2) effective 3) cost effective. I think the mod accomplishes all the above at a somewhat reasonable cost of approximately $60. Hopefully the community finds it useful. Feel free to reach out if any questions. Items Needed MicroFPV Camera / Video Transmitter – these cameras and transmitter are used primarily on drones. It essentially delivers a real-time video feed from the camera to your display. I use a bundled unit that cost $25. https://www.getfpv.com/caddx-firefly-micro-fpv-camera-w-vtx.html FPV (First Person View) Watch / Display – this wearable watch allows you to see your video feed in real-time. There are various displays you can get that range in size/cost, but found a 2-inch display is the perfect size for me. It allows me to quickly glance and see everything behind me. I use a watch that is $45. https://www.getfpv.com/topsky-2-fpv-watch-w-48ch-5-8ghz-receiver.html The Modification I’m not going to list out all the disassembly steps for the 16X as there are many videos that already do that. Basically the mod requires you to take the shells off, remove the charger assembly, drill a small hole, mount the camera with a bit of glue, and solder it to the existing LED power. You can likely adapt this mod to any wheel as most wheel LEDs are driven off 5Vs. The amperage drawn from the camera is pretty low at ~140mA, which is equivalent to ~ 2-3 small LEDs. The schematic is show below: The Results The moment I turn the wheel on, the camera is powered on and connects automatically to my watch. It’s a pretty seamless experience and runtime is ~2 hour, which is more than enough for most trips. Installed Camera View Watch View Video
  4. A couple of weeks ago I looked at my CX tyre and saw two threads lightly exposed. 7000km. Not bad.... not as good as the MSX (9400km and still okay) but still damn good. My heart sank a little as I dreaded the process of changing the tyre. I had previously tried to remove one of the pedals and failed. Last week I downgraded to FW 1.05 and tried it on the bald CX tyre. Zippy. Yesterday two of my friends came over and we had some beers and opened my 16X. Getting the screw out of the right pedal was hell. We then had to smack the pedal rods so damn hard so if you guys felt a small temor last night it was us. Upon opening the wheel we saw that some of the plastic bits that hold screw mounts were cracked or had fallen off. No signs of moisture, a thin layer of dust. No dirt or goo. Some cracked battery wrapping. We removed the motor assembly and switched the tyre to the Chao Yang. The part of the tyre that goes in where the tube valve is resisted being pushed in properly. Thomas pushed the tyre in and I pumped it up. We put it all back together and tried it out. It flies. And floats. It behaves predictably. Sure it does not float like the CX but the CX in comparison is like a car tyre. FW 1.05 is very raw in its power output. The pedals have more range of motion in 1.05 hard mode than they do in 1.07 soft mode. You point, it takes off. You shift, it responds. The Chao Yang mutes this somewhat compared to the CX. The Chao Yang is much more forgiving when it comes to cracks and irregular patterns on the road, gravel, etc. It feels grippy on the road yet agile. The 16X with FW 1.05 and the Chao Yang reminds me more of the feeling I get when riding the Ninebot One E+. A small wheel feel. With infinite battery and infinite speed. In comparison at least. We went for a late night cruise. Thomas blazed ahead on his MSX and I was close behind beeping along on the 16X with my 45 kmh battery. Riding the CX for 7000km I scan like a Cylon and brace/loosen/prepare for incoming irregularities. No longer needed and that is disorienting to me. Turning is obviously easier with the Chao Yang compared to the CX when it comes to physical effort but the CX turned with very little wobble. Braking is great, acceleration is godly. I will keep it like this for a while. Keep in mind I weigh 63kg so FW 1.05 has always been same for me no matter how much I have pushed the wheel. Also called optimism bias. Video and some photos coming up later in the evening.
  5. People! I need some help, and would love the community's input... I was talking to @Seba about building default suggested profiles settings for different wheels with peak amperage, sustained current, etc, but the data needs to be gathered, and it seems like a ton of work. But either way, I need suggestions about how to set up my own ks16x alarms and settings, and thought it might be nice to systematise the community's settings, so people that come searchig afterwards for the ks 16x EUC world suggested settings (keywords yo) have a nice catalogue. To keep info easy to read for the future users I suppose something looking like that, so next up can just copy and fill it: 🏗️Rider weight: 105 kg equipped / ~220 lbs 📝Current firmware: 1.08 🔋Battery level averiging: true 🔌Overvoltage alarm: true Voltage-dependant speed alarm: true 🔊Speed alarm 1 (high priority) : ____ / @ 🔋battery percent: ____ 🔉Speed alarm 2 (med priority) : ____ / @ 🔋battery percent: ____ 🔈Speed alarm 3 (low priority) : ____ / @ 🔋battery percent: ____ Pre-alarm: off? (idk what it does) ⚡Peak current: 28 A (saw it somewhere, idk if its good) ⚡Current: 26 A (what I wrote above) 🌡 Temperature alarm: 60 degrees Celsius Ps: let me know if I'm missing something, so I can add it to that post;
  6. Hey guys! I'm fully leaning into selling my KS16x with 350km done. It's only a few months old and works perfectly, never had a crash or a cut out. I can provide pictures via text message on request. I can ship it interstate but buyer pays shipping. Asking $2350 before shipping with a little wiggle room for negotiation. Cheers!
  7. Sold my V10F yesterday - I am already itching for a ride!!! So I wanted to get a little more power/torque and larger battery for some better range - short listed to between 16x and MSP for new wheel. At 91kg my V10F was only getting me about 30-35km in colder weather 6C, hard riding. Need a good all round wheel for commuting to work, some joy riding in evenings and weekends - I am not a speeder (I mostly cruise 30kph) - and I want to do more trail riding. Torque --- So per Marty's mountain test reviews - he kinda estimated the Torque to be about the same maybe with the 16x a little bit more but he never put to the short stall hill that he did with the MCM5 and MSP - 16" 2200W versus 18" 2600W - sounds reasonable based size power and size. Range --- Marty's range test put the 16x a bit longer at 64miles(102km) and the MSP at 58miles(93km) if I remember correctly - again I would put them at about the same given only a 6 mile(9.5) difference. If you had to walk that maybe not!!! Ride quality --- 18" wheel will be smoother on the rough trails vs 16 = so if torque about same, maybe 18" the way to go if I want to do more trails. BUT how much bigger is the MSP wheel when you compare with tires on? Coming from a 16"x2.5" on the V10F to a 16"x3" is still an improvement from what most are saying. For Trails per Marty, Chooch and Kuji - MSP is the best trail wheel to date but the 16x is no slouch! Light --- I commute "to" work in the dark mornings of Spring and Fall so the MSP light is better. I put Marty's comparisons of each side by side and the MSP wins for sure - but I already have a flashlight from use with my V10F that I could use with the 16x but it would be nice to ride without hold one. Peddles - both big but V10F was very flat(dihedral angle) compared to MSP so going to 16x will easier transition - but MSP pedals can be moded to reduce the angle if I dont like them. This may be a moot issue. Trolley -- I go grocery shopping with the wheel so with also bringing into my work building I do bit of trollying. No one that I know of has every complained about the 16x handle. I have heard a few bad things about the Msuper handle - Kuji Rolls shows a good example of getting out of control, which I do not want to happen while in the grocery store. I have not had the pleasure to try an Msuper handle so I can only go by what is posted which is more negative than positive from what I have discerned. So do I save a few hundred and go with 16x that has a great handle and meets most of my other criteria or go with the new MSP which is the new 18" King of trails. Your thoughts are appreciated. Cheers, Patrick
  8. KS 16X for sale A$1750 Wheel has 550 Kms Running V1.07 Bought Aug 19 Comes with NZ Roll stealth cover Handle Is damaged and does not extend Replacement handle from Ali Exp A$116 With Stealth cover fitted this is not an option anyways Comes with spare off road tyre Few stuffs on shell and foam pads Wheel is fitted with additional internal seals to help improve IP rating Would prefer local sale PM for pics or more details Cheers Gaz
  9. Hi guys, First of all just want to say a big HI to everybody and Happy New Year! I am new to the site and I was kind of foolish not to sign up to this forum when I purchased my first electric unicycle back in the summer which was a Ninebot Z6, but I have had no issues with that wheel and it has taken some tumbles. The problem is with my King Song 16X which I have only had since the start of November (bought from E Rides here in the UK) It has only recently been suffering from a weird vibration problem which comes and goes, it is most noticeable if I run the wheel back and forth or when I climb onto it to ride it, when I get some speed up say 12 mph the vibration goes away but if I slow down or climb a hill the vibration will kick in again. I haven't hit top speeds yet and only two weeks ago figured out that I don't need to exceed 200km before unlocking the top speed, I managed to unlock it with darkness bot. But I am a bit irritated that this wheel which cost way more than my Z6 has already developed a problem. I don't think it is a firmware issue but I thought I would run it past you guys to see if you know what the problem might be. I have already messaged e rides and prepared to send it back for repair if it needs it, it's very odd Mambo5
  10. I updated to FW 1.07 yesterday and did extensive testing yesterday and today. Speed and throttling: On FW 1.05 I rarely hit 50 kmh. I really have to push the soft tiltback and I am not a big fan of that. Also I have only been able to reach 50 kmh with a pretty fresh battery. As voltage drops I then get stuck at 48, 47 and eventually down to 45 kmh soft tiltback. This would continue down to 72V. I would rarely push on the soft tiltback at FW 1.05 because I was unsure about the power reserves. This is something that nagged me more and more as time has passed because it has stopped me from pushing the wheel (and myself). FW 1.07 is similar but with once difference: When I was at 75v I pushed a bit on the soft tiltback to see what would happen. So instead of riding the soft tiltback gently I went into a more medium-aggressive lean on the pedals. It was still quiet. I then hit some bumps and at that point it did 4 beeps in quick succession. It only did this once and this is the 88% overpower alarm. Once the bumps were gone it was quiet again. This was a huge relief for me because it was the missing link I was looking for. At the skate park I smacked too aggressively into a high climb and the wheel let out a high amp warning. It has done this in 1.05 as well. On my way home today I was doing 30kmh at below 64v. It was letting off battery alarms and medium tiltback. I then went up a 22 degree ramp and it didn't make a sound. During the very last halv V under load I was still doing 20kmh and also throwing my body back and forth on the wheel to see if I could get it to do the 4 beeps at me which it did a couple of times. The numbers above where not achievable going up slight inclines as the 16x loses some speed there. Also I don't have data for below 70v on the 16X with FW 1.05 as I rarely went that low. 34kmh at 67v is good enough for me. Range: I did 73km. Temperature was +3C. Riding weight was 69.5kg. This was spread out over 2 days. 50km yesterday. Lights: There are more light modes for the headlight. And rear indicators for turning. Nice features. Charging: I am currently charging with a 1Radwerkstatt charger which tends to charge between 5.0A and 5.1x A. The wheel is quiet and has been for an hour now. Climbing: Feels the same. Perhaps a tiny bit harder. Pedals: Feels the same. Perhaps a tiny bit stiffer. Acceleration and braking: Feels smoother. So what does this mean as many have said it before... It feels less jerky. Any spikes and irregularities in body movement or pedal movement seems to be smoothened out. This makes acceleration and braking easier for me. It was too twitchy before and cause me to wobble. Also it being a 16X wheel one would expect some crazy acceleration from it. Simon (18 XL), Thomas (MSX) and I did a drag race when I was on FW 1.05. We are all even. I accelerated harder than I usually do. I have way more riding time and experience than Simon and Thomas put together. But the 16X holds me back. Now with smoother 1.07 acceleration AND a 88% warning AND a high amp warning maybe I can finally push the wheel. However it was quite interesting that the 16X did not have a clear advantage when it comes to acceleration and that was against 18" wheels. So because of that little drag race I felt that there was no big loss in upgrading to FW 1.07. The wheel is less twitchy now and I feel more relaxed on it. Some of this could be in my mind as well of course. Final words: 1.07 feels safer and more mature. It feels smoother and more robust. I think at this point the 16X is quite a mature product. I did not use the speakers but I might further on. Let me know if I missed anything or if you would like me to to do some more tests. Day 1 of riding Day 2 of riding Final thoughts / review
  11. Is this normal when charging any EUC that the board is vamping/draining the power to itself? I've noticed on several occasions that the wheel stays "on" after charging. First encounter I had taken a break from riding the EUC a couple of days and left it on the charger; when it came to ride it had drained itself from 100% to maybe 77%. I thought I might of not had the stock charger plugged in all the way. I did this another time and the power brick was GREEN and it had gone from 100% to a lesser amount sitting on the charger. Another time I entered into the room the 16X was charged and unplugged [ I had checked on the app to make sure its percentage and voltage was full] early in morning and could see a red light coming through the case. So I cycled the power to ON then off.. and then the red light was gone.
  12. First i would like to thank @Seba for giving me the idea and sharing his knowledge without which I would not have thought of this project. Check out his thread first: Decided not to go this route after the news of adjustable chargers going rogue and killing several 16x wheels with 100v++ despite being set to 84v. Felt more comfortable using my tested and proven GT16 chargers which are decently fast and never get hot. You can use any charger for this mod, just install the right connectors for your adapter/meter. For those who might attempt this: Mains voltage is dangerous, even more so when combined with mislabelled chinese components. My GT16 pinouts were completely reversed despite what the sticker read, and the Lenovo plug was wired backwards from what is used on the KS-16x. CHECK ALL POLARITIES WITH A MULTIMETER! Do not recommend the first half of this project for the inexperienced DIYers. It's much more worth it safety wise to just buy a chargedoctor off ebay or a ready-made meter/adapter from a trustworthy source. So much could have gone wrong Parts used: Lenovo male cable for 16x https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/SGpXCDJXH GX16-3 female socket for GT16 chargers https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/dz4VdU8Rt Coulometer https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qh7dWjVcX GT16 Charger (or whatever you like) This setup gives me 3 options: 5.5a fast charge, 84v, 100% 2.7a slow charge, 82v, 90% 2.7a slow charge, 84v, 100% I forgot to document the assembly of my coulometer as the mislabelled markings were pissing me off and giving me a headache. The next part onwards is relatively safe and easy to attempt. The GT16 charger has only one tamper-resistant triangle screw hidden under a sticker Trimpot was hidden under a glob of silicone probably to prevent tampering as well. Peel it off carefully. The dial is fragile and can be yanked off easily. Keep a close eye on the meter and turn very slowly and gently until you reach your intended voltage. My charger only had one trimpot which makes things simpler. However, note that many chargers have 3 according to Seba. Check his thread to make sure you do not adjust the wrong one if you have one of those. 82.5v: close enough for me. Put everything back together and its done! Now I can charge to 90% - my daily use option, or 100% for balancing once a month, or fast charge at 5.5A which is always nice to have when in a hurry.
  13. Ready to move up from my Z6 which I've had for a few months now. Looking for something with a little more speed and range - 16x is at the top of my list! Let me know if you have one for sale:)
  14. So, opportunity has finally arisen to allow my third wheel purchase. But I can't decide between the Kingsong 16x and the Gotway Monster v3. I have a z10 and an MSX rn and I'm looking for a slightly different ride, I feel like the 16x would handle similar to the MSX while the monsters larger heavier size would feel more rugged. Insight Anyone?
  15. Handle is broken and I'm looking for a replacement. Has anyone broken theirs yet? This is what it looks like: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w6cYqwNsx1ro4C-KLumL_yUuSve0jR0c/view?usp=sharing I'm not sure how to upload picts here
  16. I just got back from a 43km cruise with my wife and a friend. I was on my 16X. Temperature today was 7C and then 11C. Nice and sunny. Here are the stats: Rider: Mike EUC: 16X Riding weight: ~70kg Battery start and stop: 95% - 3% (66v) (also for some reason my 5A charger didn't charge the 16X all the way to 100) The first 18km took the battery down to 50% and the internal temperature according to Darknessbot was 15C and later on it was 31C. Rider: Monika EUC: MSX 84v Riding weight: ~70kg Battery start and stop: 97% - 50% (56% after resting) Rider: Petra EUC: Tesla Riding weight: ~60kg Battery start and stop 100% - 50% This is the worst range I have ever seen but also the first time we are down to single digits here! I'm gonna try again later and see if it does the same thing. I expect at least similar battery usage as the MSX. My battery was down to 60% after 18km and had dipped as low as 47%. We were riding between 30-40kmh and then we slowed down for the remainder of the cruise. Anyone else living in a cold country with a similar experience? I might need to get my 16X a fur coat if this keeps up.
  17. I cannot wait for 1.07 to come out. I do not know how many more rides listening to that on the way home I can take. Looking on the bright side pedestrians are more aware of me at lower battery. Haha
  18. Issue: BT module might cause interference as reported by others, I don't have the wheel yet so I have not tested it. Fix: talk to your dealer there should be an update done by use stick. Note: My dealer will update my wheel before it is shipped. Video show how: (shown at 6:15ish)
  19. The currently on fire 16x thread is hard to dig through to find actual issues with the newly released KingSong 16x between all the comradery between us. I am creating this in hopes that we can have a thread listing and tracking the issues that are currently being reported with the first batch of 16x. I am waiting on the second batch and curious about what they will fix before or during production is the largest driver of this thread. NOTE: I will try to keep this post updated with any issues folks list below. ChangeLog at bottom Latest Firmware = 1.06 (click here for post with release notes) —— Issue: high speed/stress oscillation problem and will be out in a few days.Recommended everyone update to this firmware as soon as possible as a safety precaution. Source Fix: Firmware 1.03 fixes Issue: There is another problem where the pedals will not stay level and regularly show a very slow oscillation in some cases which makes the wheel unridable. This might be a hardware problem. Kingsong may or may not have stopped 16X production temporarily to fix this (board modification I guess). Not entirely clear what is going on, here's the source: click I would expect any good dealer to be informed about this and only ship out wheels with the fix from now on. That is conjecture. Fix: Issue: The 16X has a notable "gyro effect" where it becomes hard to turn the wheel above a certain speed, it will try to keep going straight. Like the Z10. This is due to the standard tire that comes with it (the one with a colored stripe on one side). Replacing the tire with a different one, like the CST tire the Nikola has or the Chao Yang tire the 16X prototype had, removes the gyro effect almost entirely. This is only due to the standard tire that comes with the 16X, nothing is wrong with the 16X itself. Fix: Not sure if this is really an issue vs personal preference, 16x tire thread going on HERE. Issue: Battery level not showing up correctly in KS app android ver. 3.1.3 & iOS version 1.3 (or Darknessbot not sure about WheelLog) Fix: n/a Issue: Bluetooth module might cause interference as reported by others, I don't have the wheel yet so I have not tested it. by @Unventor Fix: Process below in this post. Shared with permission from Jason @ ewheels | @Jon Stern states this is still an issue and Jason @ ewheels has looped in KS rep via email. Issue: Handlebar screws rattle loose while riding. Fix: Process below in this post. Shared with permission from Jason @ ewheels Issue: Firmware 1.06 introduces throttling at 76V (50%ish) with new firmware. Fix: not upgrading to 1.06 Issue: Firmware 1.06 for some has introduced noises that are bothering dogs around where it was not on 1.05. Fix: not upgrading to 1.07 ------------- Process for Updating the Bluetooth Music Module Applies ONLY to the KS16X Download the pdata.bfu“ file (link at end) AND a MP3 music file to a FAT32 Formatted USB stick—place on the the parent folder, without folders King Song 16X Firmware File Switch on the KS16X Go into the App & verify the Music function is enabled from the settings. Insert the USB stick into the left USB socket The Music module makes the announcement: "Enter Music Mode", then the installation process starts After installing the firmware, six long beeps will sound Disconnect the USB stick & switch off the Wheel Delete the .bfu file from the USB stick Applying Threadlocker to the handlebar screws: Some feedback received from some of the first Customers, was that during use, vibration from riding can cause handlebar screw to fall-out. In the package with the charger, you should have received a small bullet tube of threadlocker, this is to apply to the screw that secures the handle to the retractable telescopic rails. Please allow it 20 minutes to dry before using. Change Log Updated 2019-09-07 @ 0930am PDT - Added issue with noise bothering dogs after 1.06 firmware update. Updated 2019-09-05 @ 0800am PDT - Added 1.06 firmware message and issue about 76v throttling Updated 2019-08-27 @ 630pm PDT - Added BLE issue comment by Jon Updated 2019-08-23 @ 4pm PDT - added iOS app and version, darknessbot to speed issues on app, confirmed by myself. Updated 2019-08-22 @ 11am PDT - Info from Jason @ ewheels about ble update and lock-tight for handle screw. Previous Changes were not logged.
  20. i am new to euc world. have a ninebot s1 which i’ve been practicing on for the past 2 weeks. i got about 40 miles on it and hit the max speed constantly. it is still a great wheel for me to learn on but i just put down a deposit with jason at ewheels for either a 16x or 18xl. i was going to get the v10f but when i found out the speed starts dropping from %75 battery, it turned me off. i probably wont even go the speed that v10f can do but idk, i just dont want to surprise myself and have to upgrade again. i have been researching the 16x and 18xl and just cant decide, now to make life more difficult, i’ve been looking at the gotway msx too. i just dont see me going over 25mph, cruising speed probably around 20ish, once i get proficient at lower speeds! i weigh 165lb and am 5’10”. 58 years old that cant be breaking bones but too dumb to actually know it! im not one to buy different wheels just to have a collection, i want one that i can grow into. rather have the power and speed for if i ever get to that point. wont be doing alot of off roading, i use my SxS for that. any input will be appreciated. thx
  21. ray rokni

    16x or 18xl

    wanting to upgrade in the next couple months from nb s1 to either ks 16x or ks 18xl. new to euc world. so battery and motor being the same which wheel would be more fitting for someone if 5’10 165lb, no commuting, no off roading as main part of it, using it for fun, riding around 20 miles round trips maybe little longer. like it to be nimble and responsive yet somewhat forgiving. any input is appreciated thx
  22. Hi guys, as some of you may know, I recently did a small DIY project to make a fast charger adaptor for my impending KS16X I ride a Gotway MSX however and didnt have a chance to test the adaptor because there arent many ks18L/XL in my group. Most of us ride gotways or kingsong wheels with the usual GX16 port. Today i had a chance to test the adaptor on a friend's KS18L. However when it was plugged in at the Lenovo end to the wheel(the other end NOT plug to any charger), there was no reading on the voltmeter. Turning on the wheel and plugging in again had no effect as well. Now im pretty sure the polarity on my adaptor is correct as i followed the diagram on the back on the KS18XL charger, and it was also tested using a multimeter. My question is, are kingsong wheels built such a way that i cannot get a reading just by plugging in the voltmeter even if the wheel is turned on? But if the other end is plugged to a charger and then the lenovo end is plugged to the wheel, then a current flows and i have a reading on the voltmeter.
  23. I'm looking to purchase my first EUC and have a few questions on wheel size. I've ridden a friend's EUC a few times and think I'm ready to commit. Right now I have it narrowed down between the Kingsong 18XL and the Kingsong 16X. This is based on the following criteria in no particular order: Range of at least 30mi/50km Comfortable for 10-15mi commute (each way) Able to fit on a bus if the weather is bad (there is usually plenty of space available on the buses where I am, so it could share the seat next to me if necessary) Hill climbing (I live in the mountains so I need some torque to get up/down the hills) Off-road capable (I'd like to take this on some nearby trails that include some tree roots, bumps, drops, gravel, loose dirt, etc) Reliable (I've heard to stay away from the first few batches of a wheel while the kinks are worked out) Speed of at least 20mph/33kph From what I've gathered on my searches: Small wheels are best for: Hill climbs (smaller wheels have more torque since they require less energy to move one full rotation) Agility (less mass/inertia) Large wheels are best for: Commuting (the larger the wheel, the larger the bumps it can "ignore" or not feel) Long rides (larger surface area on the pavement feels "smoother") Gravel/Off-road bumpy terrain (aforementioned reasons ^^) Sorry for the long read, but here are my questions. How big of a difference in comfort is between an 18" and 16" wheels when commuting/off-roading, and how much of a torque difference between the two? Will the 16" be a noticeably better hill climber than the 18", or overheat as easily as the 18xl as @Marty Backe has shown in his videos? How much should I be worried about first/second batch issues with the 16X? TLDR; I want a wheel for commuting and off-road with good range and torque. What are the pro's/con's of a 16" over an 18" and how big of a difference between the two? Thanks in advance for the help and insights!
  24. Short clip of the KS 16X, courtesy of Flora Yuan and Vicky Huang. Flora Yuan.MP4
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