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About lioku

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • EUC
    Solowheel Glide 3, KS16X

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  1. I should also mention that I ride primarily on the "medium" ride mode. I don't have enough experience on the hard or soft settings to really tell the difference on those. Hah no my name's Ryan. Perhaps I'll try playing with the pedal tilt now that there's a setting for it. Thanks for the suggestion.
  2. So I became curious enough to give 2.02 a try. My 16X is one of the 2nd batch with the original v1.4 main board. It's had 1.07 installed for months, so I know the feel of that firmware really well. This afternoon I upgraded to 2.02 via the SoftTuner app, calibrated the wheel level, adjusted the shutoff timing, and went for a 25 mile ride around the city. At first the feel was very similar to 1.07, but I noticed a difference when braking down steep hills. The wheel feels a bit stronger/controlled and inspired more confidence in that situation than I was used to with 1.07. In other respects there isn't much difference. Just for some context, I usually ride under 25mph in very hilly San Francisco areas, so the improvement in downhill braking, however slight, is actually a big deal to me. I'm going to be keeping 2.02 installed.
  3. On one hand.. I feel like EUCs should be reasonably popular in cities within 5 years because they're so insanely practical. On the other hand.. I've been riding for more than a year and still have not convinced a single friend to get one. 🤷
  4. I just tried this on my TSG Pass. It works well! My helmet is a size small, and with this buckle installed there's no room left to tighten the strap further. Luckily the fit of the strap is just about as tight as I like it, which is just tight enough to be touching my neck. If anyone wants to measure against their helmet, it's 5.75in (146mm) between the two pleather pieces where the strap is sewn in. I'm considering replacing the snap with a permanently sewn piece of webbing, but I'll ride with this for a week or so just to make sure it feels good first.
  5. Thanks for sharing this! I've looked into replacing the D rings on my TSG Pass with a fidlock buckle, but couldn't find one that would both fit the strap size and install without modifying the helmet irreversibly. I do worry a little about the buckle being held on with a single snap on the webbing that goes around the D ring, but I suppose that could be permanently installed with a sewing machine. Definitely going to give this a try!
  6. Damn! That overlean really seemed to come out of nowhere. I'm glad you came away from it uninjured. I really don't like riding on roads like that. The bike path is narrow and positioned right next to cars going 35+mph which gives the illusion that you're going much slower than you really are. In situations like that I hit my first speed alarm (currently set at 26mph) much quicker than normal. Thanks for sharing your logs. Every data point helps better understand this wheel's capabilities. Guess I'll be keeping my alarm on the conservative side for now.. 😜
  7. This confirms my suspicion that the 16X is not at all waterproof after seeing how the shell fits together. I just rode to the train station in Portland in-between rain showers.. Feeling lucky that the wheel didn't get wet on top, or it might be dead by now. It's a shame that KS didn't seem to consider water resistance when designing the case. Like you said, just a simple overlap could have provided much more tolerance to light rain. Sorry that both of your wheels are out of commission now 😢.. Maybe the 16X could be fixed with a replacement control board?
  8. Also looking forward to a direct comparison. I was also looking at the Nik+, and eventually decided to go with the 16X. I live in San Francisco, so I do a lot of city riding up steep hills, and take my wheel on transit constantly. Hill climbing torque, nimbleness, compactness, and great trolley were the selling points that got me to go for the 16X. The high-speed ability of the Nik+ was less important to me. I'm rarely in an open-road situation where I can get up to speeds above 25mph. I recently had a chance to ride the 84v Nikola. It felt harder to turn at low speed, and the wideness felt a little awkward ergonomically. So far I'm really happy that I went with the 16X, despite the supposed issues.
  9. So after updating to 1.07 I can no longer access the Speed Setting from the iOS app (kingsong_NEW 1.3). When tapped, a load spinner animation appears for 1 or 2 seconds and nothing happens.. So, if you're an iOS user you may want to wait for Kingsong's next app to be approved by Apple. I tried to load the app onto an old Android phone I have lying around, but it just crashes after the splash screen is displayed. This phone is pretty old though. It has Android 4.4.2 on it and can't be upgraded. Luckily I had already set my speed settings to something I'm more or less happy with before upgrading.. Otherwise this might really suck. This screen recording shows me tapping the Speed Setting button twice on the main screen, and then twice in the "Setting" screen.
  10. It's a subtle change, but I notice less low intensity PWM vibration feeling, which wasn't really pronounced before, but it's even less now. Previously it felt a little like two well oiled cogs turning against each other. I would wait to upgrade if you have any doubt. It's not a huge change. I've rarely gone below 50% on my battery so the throttling isn't such a big concern for me. Definitely curious to hear reports about when it starts specifically and how severe it is.
  11. Updated to 1.05 to 1.07 this morning from the KS app on my iPhone (iOS 13). Worked perfectly the first time. I noticed right away that acceleration is noticeably smoother. It feels really good so far. The only annoyance with this update is that the headlight now requires 4 presses to turn off after the wheel is turned on, which is a lot of attention grabbing beeping when getting off the train.
  12. Hah. I got into this in a similar way.. tried out a friend's V8, was immediately obsessed, and it's only gotten worse (better?) since then! But I have no regrets at all because the feeling I get from riding an EUC is like no other. I rode a V8 for a year until I got my 16X. I'm happy that I got a less powerful wheel to start actually. The V8 is still an awesome wheel for short trips and tricks. I plan to keep it. If your goal is to go 40mph it sounds like you will want to go with a 100V wheel.. I'm still too chicken to go over 25mph on my 16X 😅
  13. I'm a similar weight (6'2" 170lb) and I've been riding hills in SF for a year now on a V8. It doesn't rocket up steep hills, but it should get to the top if you go slow, and steer side-to-side in a sinuous switchback motion. I actually have yet to find a hill that it won't climb. The V8 is a bit more sketchy descending steep hills though. I don't trust its braking ability as much as its ability to climb, so sometimes I'll walk down an exceptionally steep section that I was able to ride up. That said.. I have a 16X on order. The V8 is surprisingly capable and it's been great, but my needs have changed as I've become more comfortable riding. You might carefully try pressing a bit harder on the pedals when going uphill. Gear up before doing this and make small adjustments. Applying more pressure is kind of a weird feeling at first, but it is required for ascending the steeper hills, especially with the V8's small pedals. Switchback motion helps with this.
  14. There are a lot of people who ride bicycles and scooters super fast on the sidewalks here, especially downtown. He may have been contrasting your riding to people like that. Probably 3/4 times I see an EUC rider in SF they're in the street or on a bike path. Personally, I do ride on the sidewalk when it's not safe to be in the street, or when there is no bike path. I'm always at walking speed when around pedestrians, trying to pass people politely and never cut anyone off.
  15. What's the minimum disassembly required to change a tire on the Nikola? Looks like at minimum one of the battery packs and LEDs from one half of the shell need to be disconnected. Did you need to disconnect and remove the motor or control board also? Seems like there is a glued on cap that would need to be removed in order to take the motor out, which might be really annoying to replace. Looking at this for my next wheel but I'm worried about needing to rebuild the entire thing every time the tire needs replacing or patching.
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