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travsformation

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Everything posted by travsformation

  1. Now that I was considering either an MSP or a Nikola! Damn you, GW !!!
  2. @Lefteris Glad you've got the fan working! Do you plan on cutting any strategically placed holes in the shell ?
  3. Yeah, I have one for my 16X and one for my 18XL and the design is very sturdy and stable. Very happy with them!
  4. How certain are we about this? What's the source of the Tesla pack pics shared in this thread and has the info been verified? I've been pondering the idea of adding an MSP or a Nikola to my collection lately, but if the above is true, I'm very weary of getting a GW right now. Which of their wheels use Tesla cells?
  5. Yes it's safe or yes, I'm mentally challenged? JK, thanks! I've always charged my wheels to 100% after receiving them, before the first use. After that, I usually charged to 100% until I got the fast charger, and charged to 90% to extend battery lifespan, charging to 100% maybe every 3rd or 4th charge. But from what I've read, the benefits pf charging to 90% are negligible at best and not charging to 100% comes with risks (packs not being balanced) that I get the impression, outweigh the benefits. Thanks! What difference is there (if any) in terms of safety / battery longevity between charging with a selectable-current fast charger set to 3A, vs. using two OEM 1.5A chargers? The OEM charger don't switch to CV do they? Yeah. Minimal but...can't be discarded 100%. Enough for me not to do so. Especially considering I live in a 4th-floor apartment and will be spending this summer in motorhome with all cabinetry made of wood... Thanks for taking the time to answer, and for doing so in layman terms that even I can understand!
  6. I’m planning on doing some extended travelling in my RV this summer. Last summer I did the same and took my 18XL with me (motorhome + EUC is the ultimate freedom!). The max. temp the inside of the RV ever reached was 50º C (122º F) while driving through the desert (and my main concern wasn't for my wheel, I actually had to pull over because I have no AC and was getting dizzy). My wheel stays in the passenger seat, covered, when I'm away from the RV. Indoor temperatures rarely reach 40º C (104º F) even in the height of Spanish summers, since the RV is well insulated and has reflective blinds on all windows + 4 skylights to let the hot air out, and whenever I touch the wheel after it's been sitting in the RV, it feels cool, so I’m not too concerned about damaging the cells. Heat + charging concerns me more... I currently have a 160W solar panel fitted, a 250Ah battery and a 1500W, 12V to 220V pure sine inverter, but this setup isn't enough to charge the wheel when stationary (PV is insufficient and the discharge rate is too high and prolonged for an AGM battery). I haven’t bothered adding a second panel because I plan on upgrading to a new RV in autumn. This means I can only charge while driving, when the alternator is running, and since I take it easy, stopping a lot along the way, rarely driving more than a couple hours at once, this proves insufficient to charge my wheel. This means I have to be plugged into the mains to charge, but luckily there’s not shortage of “RV areas” scattered all over Europe. Last summer I didn’t have a fast charger, so I’d park in one of these areas in the evening, plug in the RV, start charging the wheel, unplug it before I went to bed, spend the night at the RV area and finish charging the wheel in the morning (I’m not too keen on leaving the wheel charging inside an RV I’m sleeping in where everything is made of wood…). Now that I have a 5A “fast” charger (from 1radwerkstatt), I could easily park, pay a couple euros and charge the wheel in a few hours, and the initial plan was to do so while I went out to lunch or something. But the recent EUC fires have drawn battery safety and fire hazard issues to my attention, and now that I think of it, it might not be a great idea to leave a wheel unattended, charging in an RV that’s 40º C (at head level, floor level is a bit cooler), with a 5A charger that generates extra heat… The other thing that concerns me is that I won’t be following the ideal scenario of topping off before a ride, but charging to 100% to get maximum range, and in certain instances, possibly having a fully charged EUC sitting in a hot motorhome for a day or too. How bad an idea is that? Any safety advice or suggestions? In my next RV I plan on having a garage where I can fit a couple of wheels. I’m thinking the garage should be fully enclosed, like a fire-proof metal container, preferably with extinguisher balls hanging above the wheels, but it’ll also need ventilation (a low-sitting fan to draw cool air in and one on the top to draw warm air out, preferably triggered by a thermostat), but not sure exactly how to implement while still keeping the garage self-contained. Or am I overthinking this? Any ideas? @Seba? @Chriull? (sorry for tagging you) Thanks a ton!
  7. Nice !!! Haha thanks! Glad you like it! AVAS really is useful in terms of safety, I've lost track of the number of people who have been about to step in front of me but heard me coming and stopped in their tracks...
  8. So assuming I'm a bit challenged in the mental department (at this point in the conversation I'm starting to feel like I am...)... Is it safe to keep using my 5A charger on my 16X and 18XL? Every how many charges should I charge to 100%, if not always? Is it preferable to only use 5A charging when in a hurry, and set the charger to 3A for overnight charging, for instance? Speaking of which: Can I safely charge my wheels overnight without worrying about waking up to the smell of BBQ's EUCs? (never done it before, but a doubt worth addressing)
  9. @Seba, I just wanted to say that I know of about a half a dozen iOS users (not counting the ones on this forum) who have bought cheap Android phones for exclusive use with EUC World. I think that's the biggest complement a developer can get! I'd never heard of anyone, ever, buying an Android device just to use it with one app. Very impressive feat you've accomplished, congrats!
  10. @Jack King Song There's pretty much unanimous consent among everyone who's tried 2.02 that ride characteristics have changed with this firmware upgrade. Lacking any info from KS, there has been a lot of speculation about the reasons (pedal stiffness, etc.), but I think I speak for everyone in this thread when I say that we'd all very much like to know what has been changed under the hood. All other FW upgrades specified changes to riding dynamics in the release notes ("more stable acceleration regardless of voltage", etc), and those changes very very noticeable when riding the wheel, but in this case, they mention nothing yet everyone agrees that it feels and behaves different from FW 1.07. Beyond feel, firmware is at the core of how a wheel rides, as well as rider safety (cut-off prevention, speed throttling, etc.), so as you can understand, when a FW upgrade changes the behaviour of a wheel but no mention is made of any changes in that regard, users/buyers would like to know, it's about peace of mind. It's much easier to trust an upgrade (especially on a self-balancing one-wheeled vehicle) when you know what's been changed As @DjPanJan said, could you please ask for us and share the info? Thanks!
  11. @Niik01ay That thing's awesome! What kind of range and speed do you get from this beast? And how difficult is it to turn compared to a "normal" EUC?
  12. I guess the main difference is that while EUC.W telemetry is much more complete, importing it and syncing it to your videos is a royal pain in the ass, while cameras' inbuilt does all the work for you
  13. Today's EUC World tips and tricks: Battery level, calculation algorithms and advanced features: *First: the most frequently asked battery-related question of all: Why is the battery % in EUC World much lower than on the OEM app? In all likelihood, because the "optimized" battery level algorithm is selected. Switching to the "standard" algorithm will give you a reading that's much closer to what your OEM app will display. OK, now that we've got that out of the way, here go today's tips: On EUCs there is no such things as an accurate battery %, since this figure is calculated based on the voltage, which varies depending on riding conditions (acceleration, deceleration, cruising, idle, etc.), so the figures reported by any app are algorithm-based calculations whose purpose is to give riders an approximate idea of their battery level (and remaining range). Unlike OEM apps, EUC World allows you to switch between different battery % calculation algorithms. EUC World offers a standard algorithm (which is similar to the one you'll find in the OEM app or what's indicated by your wheel, via the LEDs or LCD), and an optimized algorithm, meant for newcomers, people who want an extra reserve or people who tend to misjudge the range of their wheel and end up having to walk the last few miles home. 😅 The optimized algorithm will give you a lower reading than the standard one, but can be very useful, as if you still have a fair distance to go and see you only have 15% battery left, for example, you might start riding more slowly and less aggressively, decreasing the likelihood you’ll end up walking home 😉 With the standard algorithm, people who don't know exactly how far 30% battery will get them, for instance, can get a false sense of range and fail to adjust their riding style in time to prevent having to trolley the wheel on the way home, so it’s nice to have the option. I personally use the standard algorithm (and tick the “battery averaging” box to get more stable readings that don’t fluctuate depending on load—accelerating, coasting, regenerative braking, etc.) because I know my wheel well and know what range to expect depending on how fast and/or aggressively I ride it. Either way, you can choose either one of them and see which suits you best. You can switch from one to the other by opening the menu and going to General settings >> Battery level and choosing between Standard, Optimized and Custom. The app should be connected to the wheel to change this option, as EUC World will remember different configurations for different wheels (correct me if I'm wrong, @Seba)---which is particularly useful if you have more than one wheel (or more than 10, like Marty). The option will be greyed out if you’re recording a tour or logging data, so make sure you’re doing neither. You can just tap on the CSV icon on the main screen to disable or re-enable logging (white = off, green = on). If you want something tailor-made for your specific needs, you can use the custom battery levels option, which is (or should be) reserved for advanced users. To use it: Discharge the wheel completely until it reaches what you consider to be 0% (the wheel tilts back and won’t let you ride it even at 5 mph, for example). Once the wheel is completely discharged, select custom in battery level (general settings), then tap on Custom battery levels. Set the 0% battery level by: a) Tapping on the "Set as 0%" text on the bottom right, which will set the wheel's current voltage as 0% battery. b) Checking the voltage displayed in the stats section on the main screen and input it manually in the “Set ____V as 0%” field. Charge your wheel until 100% full (green LED on the charger). Go to custom battery levels and either: a) Tap on “set as 100%” , which will set the battery’s current voltage as 100% battery. b) Check the voltage value on EUC World’s main screen and input it manually in the “ ___ V as 100%” field. But that's for what we could call basic, realistic battery level "calibration". The true customization comes in that you can set a custom value for 0% so you always have a little energy reserve (like the fuel reserve on a car, or when people set their watches 10 min. ahead to avoid being late 😉). If you don’t trust your own range estimations and want to always have a 10% or 15% battery reserve, for instance: Set the battery algorithm to standard Discharge your battery until it reaches 10%, 15% or your desired value Switch battery algorithm to custom Go to custom battery levels and tap on "Set as 0%". Your battery level won’t be true to life (it’ll be 10%, 20% or whatever value you chose lower than in reality), but it’ll give you that extra margin. It’s nice to have the choice and be able to set it to whatever you want depending on how bad at range calculation and trip planning you are But if you don’t want to go to the hassle and want a simpler, one-click solution, setting the battery algorithm to optimized should be good enough for most riders. Hope this helps to prevent instances of trolleying one's wheel home
  14. Thanks! Maybe I could have shifted the pitch down an octave or so, will play around with it when I have the time
  15. It is, yeah. Hot summers, mild winters. The coldest it got this winter was 1º C, but was at night, and once or twice/year; daytime temperatures are around 7º C on the coldest days of the year, but the average is more around 12-14º C...in the shade When the sun's shining despite the cold, it's hard to complain... Where I grew up, 45' inland, it was much drier---colder winters, and cool nights even in the summer. I now live on the coast and last summer was awful---humid heat (not Florida-style...I really struggle with that), no breeze....the perfect excuse to make my own breeze by going on night rides
  16. Something in the line of these? https://www.amazon.com/Direction-Indicator-Charging-Adjustable-Accessory/dp/B0813CLH56/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+vest+lights+signal&qid=1591063067&sr=8-6 https://www.amazon.com/XTPower-Reflective-Luminous-Direction-Controller/dp/B07XBNQXKK/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+vest+lights+signal&qid=1591063067&sr=8-8 https://www.amazon.com/ECEEN-Flashing-Vest-Cycling-Light/dp/B083MVJBJ4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+vest+lights+signal&qid=1591063170&sr=8-2 They're wireless too
  17. Climate where I am (NE corner, Mediterranean) is very similar to California, it gets pretty hot, it's more or less bearable when there's a nice breeze but those summer nights when the air is still and humid are awful. I don't deal with the heat too well either so I try to head north to spend as much of the summer as possible as far north as I can manage (this year travel restrictions might pose a problem though...). But still, it's a relatively dry heat, which I tolerate much better than Florida-style 98% humidity heat Yeah, Leatt makes excellent quality products. For now I wanted to test this version out because it's all mesh, see how it suits me, but while I trust I'll get abrasion protection, not too sure about impact...
  18. I also like to looks and suspension on the S18 better too, but prefer the V11's range, weatherproofing and lights. Torque is another important consideration, and from from Kuji has said, the V11 wins by quite a bit on that front too. But in the end, just...
  19. Nice ride and scenery! Sorry about the handle on your wheel... BTW, am pretty sure the "sped-up effect" happens on all 360 cameras, I imagine it's from the curved lenses
  20. At the end of the last video I watched, Youtube suggested the one below. Would any of you dare ride down any of these paths on your wheel? ç Possible venue for the next LA EUC Games?
  21. It's a Nikola. Based on the pics, with the voltage reading 75.6V, I'm guessing it isn't the 100V version (Not sure what the minimum voltage on the 100V is when the battery's completely discharged, but it's more likely it's the 85V version). Doesn't it specify in the ad? Does it mention battery capacity? (measured in Wh)
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