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GaperMaster

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About GaperMaster

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  1. Hey @GMOne , We were able to finally flash my friend's S2 and it has the new speed!! It took such a long time, and I almost lost hope, but with your help and some resiliency, we were able to do it! I've sent you some coffee money as a token of our appreciation! Also, I have a couple of tips, for those that may run into any similar complications in the future. With the Chinese J-Link V8 version that we got from AliExpress, you did NOT have to do any modifications. All the pins were already set to 3.3V, except for the 5V supply, but we were able to just use the Vtref pin which was already set to 3.3V. Make sure to use a meter to check the voltage to see what your J-Link is doing. If the voltage is correct, you can just connect the correct emulator pins to the proper connections on through soldering and that should work. Also, please use this https://j-link-arm.software.informer.com/4.2/ software to get the proper version of J-Link to use with your Chinese J-Link clone. This will prevent you from bricking your emulator like we did the first time. We had to buy 2 J-Link emulators from China which is why it took us so long. Finally, the last mistake we made, was not carefully reading the settings for the Segger J-Flash ARM 4.2 setup. Make sure your project settings match the screenshot that GMOne provided EXACTLY. You will have to modify the MCU and a few other default project settings to make it match, otherwise the emulator will not be able to connect to the board. Hope this helps others in the future, and good luck!
  2. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    Hey Marty, Thanks for the tip, but I couldn't even click on the number that allowed the pop-up to come up. I just figured it out though. Atleast for my phone, I had to turn it to landscape mode in order to gain access to the alarm values (numbers). Otherwise, it just showed what you see in my screenshots above and I couldn't see or click anything. So if you are having trouble seeing values for your alarm settings, just turn your phone sideways :P. Such a simple solution, but gave me hours of headache to figure it out! Hope this saves others from wasting as much time as me. Does anyone have any suggested limits to set for temperature and current on a Z10?
  3. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    Finally tried out my Pebble Watch/Wheel Log combo on my Z10 and it looks to work great! However, when I try to set the Alarm Settings for speed, temperature, current, etc. I'm unable to see the values for the slider bars like I see in the screen shots. Anyone else experiencing this? I'm using WheelLog with a Z10 on an Android Phone. It's making it kind of hard to set the alarms properly, I had to guess where to move the slider and trigger it over and over to get the speed alarm to trigger at ~25 mph. Temperature and current seem like they'll be much harder without a value display Am I missing something that I need to do to display the values for the sliders?
  4. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    Ok, I think I figured it out. I had to turn-off my password protection on my Z10 in order for WheelLog to work with the wheel. It kind of explains this when you first connect to the wheel in the app when it asks for your password it says "(Inmotion only)". You have to not put in a password when you connect. If you turn on the bluetooth password protection setting in your Ninebot app, WheelLog will stop working again. Hopefully this helps those that are having trouble getting data to show through the app.
  5. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    No one replied to this? I'm seeing the same thing on my Z10. Is there a solution that we're missing? Is a smartwatch required for the app to actually log/display data? There's not much documentation for the app. Still want to say thank you to the creator/maintainers of the app as it's a great service for the community. I just want to get it to work with my wheel.
  6. @GMOne Hi GMOne, sorry, been really busy, but I took the screen shot of the JLINK flash error I measured each pin on the board with respect to GND, only 1 pin is not at 3.3V, and it's the SWDIO pin, it's sitting at a VERY low voltage, i'm not sure if this is the problem or not: Thanks!
  7. @GMOne I checked the voltage using my friend's multimeter from Vcc to a ground pin in the jlink and the voltage reads 3.3V. This should be correct right? However when we try connect to the device with JFlash it still says "Could flash devices. Failed to connect." Maybe since it is a different Chinese clone we should use a different version of JFlash?
  8. Ok, I do not have a multimeter, but I will borrow one from a friend. A few questions. 1) Which pin should I measure with respect to ground? The power pin (Vcc)? I am using the pdf below that you provided for reference. I will report what voltage I find after I borrow the multimeter. 2) Also, when you say the Chinese interface is different because it has a bridge at the bottom near the connector. Are you talking about the bridge indicated in my picture (It has a red arrow pointing to it)? 3) Notice in my final connection picture, I have removed the additional board which had the 3.3 to VTref bridge (red x in the picture). I have not done any soldering to the J-link at all. I plugged all the wires directly into the Chinese V-link as it came directly from the box. 4) Thank you so much for all your help. 1464150533_Howtoconnect.pdf
  9. I have found the J-Link v4.20a software, and I am now trying to connect to the board but receiving and error: "Could not find flash devices. Failed to connect." The J-Link light is lit green, and the board has 2 orange lights on, one blinking one solid. Any help or ideas about what I'm doing wrong?
  10. @GMOne I was finally able to get the pedals off and gain access to the control board. I have made the 5 solders to the control board and have added the bridge for the jlink vtref and 3.3V. I'm now trying to download the firmware, but I'm unable to find the J-Flash v4.20a like you specified on Google. Anyone have a link? I would appreciate a PM.
  11. Hi Krom, Interesting. This is very helpful. Hopefully I have not done too much damage already to make this even harder. I will have to look again but I thought there was a plastic cap on both ends of the metal bar, but I will look more closely to see if this is true. It sounds like you are saying there is only 1 plastic cap on one end, so I need to push the bar from the other end which will push out the cap, and then push back the other way to get the bar out. This makes sense, I hope it works, and I can start working on the the actual firmware upgrade! Many thanks!
  12. Hi Krom, Thank you for the advice. So I remove the external screw from both sides, and also loosened the middle screw. I can see the plastic caps inside at the ends of the metal bar. When you say push the metal bar, how did you push it? I'm using a hammer and a screwdriver that I put against the plastic cap. It doesn't seem to be able to move the bar or the plastic caps at all. They seem very firmly stuck inside. Any tips or tricks to push a cap out one side? I would greatly appreciate it.
  13. Hi I've finally received the J-link from aliexpress and I am ready to try connect to the motherboard. However, I have gotten stuck at trying to remove the pedals. I am trying to hammer out the pin that holds the pedals to the body. It does not seem to want to come out. There is no instructions or videos that I can find on how to access the control board on the S1 except for this German video on youtube: . Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get these darn pedals off?
  14. GaperMaster

    Experience learning on the Z10 from a newer rider's perspective

    Hi novazeus. Thanks for adding your input. I admit I haven't tried any other 18 inch wheels, so you are probably right. Keep in mind, I'm comparing an 18 inch wheel 50+ lb to a 14 inch 25 lb wheel, so I may just have unrealistic expectations which I've admitted. I'm just relaying my personal experience which seems to differ from the majority. I can only say, personally, I felt very comfortable controlling the Z10 and turning at higher speeds, and very uncomfortable maneuvering it at lower speeds coming from an S1. But it's highly likely if you put me on a larger Gotway, King Song, or Inmotion wheel, and I'd drive straight into my neighbor's flower garden.
  15. GaperMaster

    Experience learning on the Z10 from a newer rider's perspective

    I haven't scraped my pedals on the Z10. To make very tight turns on the S1, I sometimes could and have scraped the pedal. However, on the Z10, in low speed mode I can dip pretty low, and if I didn't control it, I could scrape the pedal. But I mentioned in my initial post, that I'm finding that I can turn without dipping at all on the Z10. Maybe this is the technique that you veterans have been using. This is definitely something unintuitive coming from the S1 as there's no way it would be possible on the S1 to turn as tightly without pedal dip. So it may just be a question of technique. Maybe I never need to enter this "low-speed mode" of dipping the Z10 and can always ride at slightly higher speeds where the wheel stays upright. I'll have to experiment with how tightly I can turn using this technique. It'll definitely take time to get used to, but it is probably the answer. Just like my solution to handling embankments, it seems like I just need to keep this wheel upright no matter what situation I find myself in. It seems to be able to magically maneuver through anything while staying upright which is quite amazing! I guess I'm more used to tilting and dipping at low speeds which is why it has been an adjustment for me. Others maybe are more used to tilting at higher speeds which explains the adjustment period for them there. Either way, I'm looking forward to learning how to control this beast better at low speeds and increase my top-end speed comfort too.
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