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About GaperMaster

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  1. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    Hey Marty, Thanks for the tip, but I couldn't even click on the number that allowed the pop-up to come up. I just figured it out though. Atleast for my phone, I had to turn it to landscape mode in order to gain access to the alarm values (numbers). Otherwise, it just showed what you see in my screenshots above and I couldn't see or click anything. So if you are having trouble seeing values for your alarm settings, just turn your phone sideways :P. Such a simple solution, but gave me hours of headache to figure it out! Hope this saves others from wasting as much time as me. Does anyone have any suggested limits to set for temperature and current on a Z10?
  2. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    Finally tried out my Pebble Watch/Wheel Log combo on my Z10 and it looks to work great! However, when I try to set the Alarm Settings for speed, temperature, current, etc. I'm unable to see the values for the slider bars like I see in the screen shots. Anyone else experiencing this? I'm using WheelLog with a Z10 on an Android Phone. It's making it kind of hard to set the alarms properly, I had to guess where to move the slider and trigger it over and over to get the speed alarm to trigger at ~25 mph. Temperature and current seem like they'll be much harder without a value display Am I missing something that I need to do to display the values for the sliders?
  3. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    Ok, I think I figured it out. I had to turn-off my password protection on my Z10 in order for WheelLog to work with the wheel. It kind of explains this when you first connect to the wheel in the app when it asks for your password it says "(Inmotion only)". You have to not put in a password when you connect. If you turn on the bluetooth password protection setting in your Ninebot app, WheelLog will stop working again. Hopefully this helps those that are having trouble getting data to show through the app.
  4. GaperMaster

    WheelLog Android App

    No one replied to this? I'm seeing the same thing on my Z10. Is there a solution that we're missing? Is a smartwatch required for the app to actually log/display data? There's not much documentation for the app. Still want to say thank you to the creator/maintainers of the app as it's a great service for the community. I just want to get it to work with my wheel.
  5. @GMOne Hi GMOne, sorry, been really busy, but I took the screen shot of the JLINK flash error I measured each pin on the board with respect to GND, only 1 pin is not at 3.3V, and it's the SWDIO pin, it's sitting at a VERY low voltage, i'm not sure if this is the problem or not: Thanks!
  6. @GMOne I checked the voltage using my friend's multimeter from Vcc to a ground pin in the jlink and the voltage reads 3.3V. This should be correct right? However when we try connect to the device with JFlash it still says "Could flash devices. Failed to connect." Maybe since it is a different Chinese clone we should use a different version of JFlash?
  7. Ok, I do not have a multimeter, but I will borrow one from a friend. A few questions. 1) Which pin should I measure with respect to ground? The power pin (Vcc)? I am using the pdf below that you provided for reference. I will report what voltage I find after I borrow the multimeter. 2) Also, when you say the Chinese interface is different because it has a bridge at the bottom near the connector. Are you talking about the bridge indicated in my picture (It has a red arrow pointing to it)? 3) Notice in my final connection picture, I have removed the additional board which had the 3.3 to VTref bridge (red x in the picture). I have not done any soldering to the J-link at all. I plugged all the wires directly into the Chinese V-link as it came directly from the box. 4) Thank you so much for all your help. 1464150533_Howtoconnect.pdf
  8. I have found the J-Link v4.20a software, and I am now trying to connect to the board but receiving and error: "Could not find flash devices. Failed to connect." The J-Link light is lit green, and the board has 2 orange lights on, one blinking one solid. Any help or ideas about what I'm doing wrong?
  9. @GMOne I was finally able to get the pedals off and gain access to the control board. I have made the 5 solders to the control board and have added the bridge for the jlink vtref and 3.3V. I'm now trying to download the firmware, but I'm unable to find the J-Flash v4.20a like you specified on Google. Anyone have a link? I would appreciate a PM.
  10. Hi Krom, Interesting. This is very helpful. Hopefully I have not done too much damage already to make this even harder. I will have to look again but I thought there was a plastic cap on both ends of the metal bar, but I will look more closely to see if this is true. It sounds like you are saying there is only 1 plastic cap on one end, so I need to push the bar from the other end which will push out the cap, and then push back the other way to get the bar out. This makes sense, I hope it works, and I can start working on the the actual firmware upgrade! Many thanks!
  11. Hi Krom, Thank you for the advice. So I remove the external screw from both sides, and also loosened the middle screw. I can see the plastic caps inside at the ends of the metal bar. When you say push the metal bar, how did you push it? I'm using a hammer and a screwdriver that I put against the plastic cap. It doesn't seem to be able to move the bar or the plastic caps at all. They seem very firmly stuck inside. Any tips or tricks to push a cap out one side? I would greatly appreciate it.
  12. Hi I've finally received the J-link from aliexpress and I am ready to try connect to the motherboard. However, I have gotten stuck at trying to remove the pedals. I am trying to hammer out the pin that holds the pedals to the body. It does not seem to want to come out. There is no instructions or videos that I can find on how to access the control board on the S1 except for this German video on youtube: . Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get these darn pedals off?
  13. GaperMaster

    Experience learning on the Z10 from a newer rider's perspective

    Hi novazeus. Thanks for adding your input. I admit I haven't tried any other 18 inch wheels, so you are probably right. Keep in mind, I'm comparing an 18 inch wheel 50+ lb to a 14 inch 25 lb wheel, so I may just have unrealistic expectations which I've admitted. I'm just relaying my personal experience which seems to differ from the majority. I can only say, personally, I felt very comfortable controlling the Z10 and turning at higher speeds, and very uncomfortable maneuvering it at lower speeds coming from an S1. But it's highly likely if you put me on a larger Gotway, King Song, or Inmotion wheel, and I'd drive straight into my neighbor's flower garden.
  14. GaperMaster

    Experience learning on the Z10 from a newer rider's perspective

    I haven't scraped my pedals on the Z10. To make very tight turns on the S1, I sometimes could and have scraped the pedal. However, on the Z10, in low speed mode I can dip pretty low, and if I didn't control it, I could scrape the pedal. But I mentioned in my initial post, that I'm finding that I can turn without dipping at all on the Z10. Maybe this is the technique that you veterans have been using. This is definitely something unintuitive coming from the S1 as there's no way it would be possible on the S1 to turn as tightly without pedal dip. So it may just be a question of technique. Maybe I never need to enter this "low-speed mode" of dipping the Z10 and can always ride at slightly higher speeds where the wheel stays upright. I'll have to experiment with how tightly I can turn using this technique. It'll definitely take time to get used to, but it is probably the answer. Just like my solution to handling embankments, it seems like I just need to keep this wheel upright no matter what situation I find myself in. It seems to be able to magically maneuver through anything while staying upright which is quite amazing! I guess I'm more used to tilting and dipping at low speeds which is why it has been an adjustment for me. Others maybe are more used to tilting at higher speeds which explains the adjustment period for them there. Either way, I'm looking forward to learning how to control this beast better at low speeds and increase my top-end speed comfort too.
  15. GaperMaster

    Experience learning on the Z10 from a newer rider's perspective

    Hi Elder Meat. Yes, that's probably what happening. It just happens at very low speeds which I guess is why it's a little tough to get used to. For example, the S1 handles the same way all the way up to it's max speed of 12 mph. The Z10 switches it's handling dynamics at 5 mph. Maybe it's due to the compactness and weight. But this is what requires your brain to be very nimble and realize which mode you are in very quickly. I'm used to changes in handling at much higher speeds I guess. When it happens so immediately and often at low speeds, it's very taxing on the brain. But, I agree that it's becoming unconscious for me, and I'm slowly adjusting, but it's the "weirdest" handling part of the Z in my opinion. It is also the only thing that has caused me to dump it. Hi Marty. Thanks for the kind words. I'm not a natural though. I think I'm just drawing on decades of board sports. If I was a natural, I would've been able to immediately hop on the thing and ride off into the sunset after watching all those youtube tutorials like I envisioned in my head. That definitely did not happen. My friend's S1 has taken such a beating that we should get convicted with a felony in court. Regarding your scenarios. I'm talking more about the second one. Imagine riding a 3 foot wide sidewalk (very narrow) and having to make a 3 90 degree turns with maybe 5 feet between turns in a zig zag pattern while also avoiding a person if they happen to be on the sidewalk too. I got to the point of being able to do this very comfortably with the S1 because I can just kind of dip my left pedal, dip the right pedal, dip the left pedal and slow down and speed up as necessary (if someone randomly shows up) in that process. I feel very in control like I could ride it in a sea of people if I really had to. If I try this on the Z10, i'll dip the left pedal to make the first 90 degree turn, if I speed up accidentally a little too much (> 5mph) before I need to dip the right pedal, it won't dip because it's in the "high speed mode". The wheel want to go straight (and even veer the opposite direction) and not allow me to do the quick 90 degree turn. This has lead to me hopping off the thing to save an innocent person from getting bowled over by a 50 lb hunk of metal a few times. Either that or I've had to grab it before it goes meandering off the sidewalk into someone's flower garden haha. Luckily this is only at low speeds, so no harm no foul. But it describes the main issue which is, this low speed switching of handling characteristics. I'm finding my brain adjusting now to knowing where this "switch" happens and naturally knowing what to do. However, there is definitely a change that maybe the Z10 veterans have fully adjusted to and don't notice anymore. Or maybe my technique at low speeds is wrong, I'm always learning more about the wheel. I could've built up some bad habits on the S1, but it works with that wheel. These are just my personal experience.