Jump to content

Struck

Full Members
  • Content Count

    51
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

37 Excellent

About Struck

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Barcelona
  • EUC
    KS14S

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This question drives me mad. And I couldn't see it answered. Meaning, you are going fast, you want to brake, you use the motor to "eat" the energy. There must be a limit at which point the wheel should decide to put energy in the motor to brake, to accelerate in the "other direction". Braking is negative acceleration, but continuous negative acceleration at one point means shift speed sign. When does it happen? Can the braking be so hard that the wheel uses power to brake? This looks like a sharp shift that I can't grasp
  2. This has never been the case in my wheel (KS-14S), and I have had several firmwares Both the original wheellog and your EUC.World show negative values for regenerative braking Best,
  3. Hi Seba, why is it that users of older wheels do not have that? What I have now is four columns with a bunch of zeroes! Are you receiving more data from the newer models? afaik you can compute that with the available date (which will be very wrong, since the sampling rate is not enough to have anything accurate) Best,
  4. Hi @Seba, Sorry for always replying like a month late!! So they told me they actually did that. They checked the board, if it was leaking power or not, if there was a short.. I hope they checked it right! What I might not have mentioned in this thread is that the wheel had been without a full charge for about 3000km. That was because I had a faulty charger that couldn't reach 67,2V. And I didn't bother. Now I fully balance after 5-10 partial charges with a charger that works. So far, so good :))) Best,
  5. The place is called eptv, in Barcelona. They have a warehouse devoted to fixing all kind of personal electric transport vehicles (I was quite impressed at the size, the inventory and the number of workers when I visited them personally), and one of the workers is specialized in batteries. Most of the team ride euc's, and I met them because of this. So, not enough for you? I see in your profile that you are from Finland. You can't compare our wages, etc, to the ones in Finland. I know that two cells might have been 10-15€ in raw materials, and then you add 30 something for less than one hour of work. Seems reasonable. Also, worth noting that the two faulty were at the edge, easily accessible. Cheers!
  6. I finally went to a shop, and they did a marvelous job (in less than 24h). Replaced the faulty cells, checked if the BMS was damaged (was not), and now I am super happy with my refurbished battery 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳 Thanks to all! I learned a lot during this process!! 49€
  7. I agree, after a second thought, what you see there is a direct connection between the cells and the voltmeter, so 0V is a problem of the cells there are no BMS components in between, if the BMS has a problem we can't check it now. But no visual signs of it. I will contact some shops. A new pack is way too expensive for what it looks like just a two cell problem. Thanks,
  8. Hello to everybody and thanks for keeping here with me :p Finally decided to open the battery pack and measure voltages across. There are exactly 0V between V7 and V8, all the other dV read 4,18V The result is this: My shop promised to have somebody experienced in batteries to take a look at it, but apparently that expertise is not coming. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Should I buy two lgebmj11865 (which I think is the cell being used here) and take it to a shop? Can I test somehow if the BMS is at fault? A problem similar to what @Tadas had. Thanks!
  9. Thanks Chriull, I have seen a very thin red wire, next to a bundle of three, where two of them are very thick (red&blue) The battery pack is labelled "KS-16S", 7Ah, 403Wh (where have my other 17Wh gone?) I will not try the fireworks think, of course. I am waiting for the replacement of my shop (they say they will try to fix the battery pack first) In the mean time I have decided to just go with the "safe" one, riding only when needed and slowly. thx,
  10. So they are connected straightaway? There is not such protection in the BMS / motherboard? So what happens if one pack suddenly dies? Faceplant? Is the wheel not separating both energy sources? Thanks!
  11. What happens if I charge separately one battery to 67.2V, and the other stays at 63? I guess the BMS will shut the current for the one that is at 63, until both reach 63V, am I right? Thanks!
  12. That sounds like a horror movie. Will replace the thing very soon. In the meantime speeds of 10kmh / 6mph with my hands prepared in front :p
  13. That sounds great. Last question, we are saying here that now the safeness of the wheel has gone down quite a bit. But we are talking about a 2x420Wh battery packs, one of them presumably damaged, the other one presumably ok. The "safety level" shouldn't be about the same of the ks14d 420Wh? Thanks!
  14. Thanks to you all!! I am not afraid of replacing the battery, I am afraid of breaking some plastic "tabs" when opening the wheel.
  15. okay, will try that. And just spoke with my store. They will give me a good price on a replacement if it is needed. They are on holidays now, so until september I will try a little bit this process, which I assume is not the best for the battery, but worth trying
×
×
  • Create New...