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  1. The place is called eptv, in Barcelona. They have a warehouse devoted to fixing all kind of personal electric transport vehicles (I was quite impressed at the size, the inventory and the number of workers when I visited them personally), and one of the workers is specialized in batteries. Most of the team ride euc's, and I met them because of this. So, not enough for you? I see in your profile that you are from Finland. You can't compare our wages, etc, to the ones in Finland. I know that two cells might have been 10-15€ in raw materials, and then you add 30 something for less than one hour of work. Seems reasonable. Also, worth noting that the two faulty were at the edge, easily accessible. Cheers!
  2. I finally went to a shop, and they did a marvelous job (in less than 24h). Replaced the faulty cells, checked if the BMS was damaged (was not), and now I am super happy with my refurbished battery 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳 Thanks to all! I learned a lot during this process!! 49€
  3. I agree, after a second thought, what you see there is a direct connection between the cells and the voltmeter, so 0V is a problem of the cells there are no BMS components in between, if the BMS has a problem we can't check it now. But no visual signs of it. I will contact some shops. A new pack is way too expensive for what it looks like just a two cell problem. Thanks,
  4. Hello to everybody and thanks for keeping here with me :p Finally decided to open the battery pack and measure voltages across. There are exactly 0V between V7 and V8, all the other dV read 4,18V The result is this: My shop promised to have somebody experienced in batteries to take a look at it, but apparently that expertise is not coming. Any suggestions on how to proceed? Should I buy two lgebmj11865 (which I think is the cell being used here) and take it to a shop? Can I test somehow if the BMS is at fault? A problem similar to what @Tadas had. Thanks!
  5. Thanks Chriull, I have seen a very thin red wire, next to a bundle of three, where two of them are very thick (red&blue) The battery pack is labelled "KS-16S", 7Ah, 403Wh (where have my other 17Wh gone?) I will not try the fireworks think, of course. I am waiting for the replacement of my shop (they say they will try to fix the battery pack first) In the mean time I have decided to just go with the "safe" one, riding only when needed and slowly. thx,
  6. So they are connected straightaway? There is not such protection in the BMS / motherboard? So what happens if one pack suddenly dies? Faceplant? Is the wheel not separating both energy sources? Thanks!
  7. What happens if I charge separately one battery to 67.2V, and the other stays at 63? I guess the BMS will shut the current for the one that is at 63, until both reach 63V, am I right? Thanks!
  8. That sounds like a horror movie. Will replace the thing very soon. In the meantime speeds of 10kmh / 6mph with my hands prepared in front :p
  9. That sounds great. Last question, we are saying here that now the safeness of the wheel has gone down quite a bit. But we are talking about a 2x420Wh battery packs, one of them presumably damaged, the other one presumably ok. The "safety level" shouldn't be about the same of the ks14d 420Wh? Thanks!
  10. Thanks to you all!! I am not afraid of replacing the battery, I am afraid of breaking some plastic "tabs" when opening the wheel.
  11. okay, will try that. And just spoke with my store. They will give me a good price on a replacement if it is needed. They are on holidays now, so until september I will try a little bit this process, which I assume is not the best for the battery, but worth trying
  12. I hate complaining to the store But it looks like I have to send it I did not fully understand your last sentence. There are literally 0.0 Amps flowing to the wheel once it reached the 63V. I don't see any balancing there, right? Something should flow in. And 67.2 - 4.2 = 63 makes total sense, there is a "row" gone bad
  13. But I do not want to open it Anyway, the wheel board and the charger agree on the battery voltage, until it stops charging, and since there is no current flowing, the charger goes back to 67V. I am thinking on leaving the wheel on with music playing on the speakers until the battery is empty, and charging from there. But I guess this could be days... EDIT: The wheel has 3000km on it and is 1.5 years old, is there any problem with the guarantee?
  14. Hi all! So, I will try to explain what the issue is as good as I can. The wheel is a ks14s, 840Wh battery. I have a wattmeter between the wheel and the charger. The wheel (through the app) and the wattmeter agree on the voltage with just a 0.2V difference, so I would say the board READS WELL the voltage (important point here). The wheel has stopped charging at about 63V, the wattmeter says 67.2V and the light is green, 0 amps are flowing. It has stopped all of a sudden. My sense is that there is a cell that has reached 4.2V and the BMS is cutting the current. (this has been after searching a little bit) Suggestions, alternative explanations, solutions? Thanks,
  15. I am a little bit lost here. I do not know if we are disagreeing on something or not. My charger could not give 67V, and therefore the wheel was never fully charged. First way to check if it was giving 67V? By measuring the thing unloaded. I can measure the charger voltage and use the app to measure the battery voltage , and they differ by 0.2V, I do not know how much is because neither of them is perfectly calibrated, but I think it is a pretty good measurement
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