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Arbolest

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Everything posted by Arbolest

  1. Arbolest

    THE VIDEO THREAD!

    I can't wait until I get a chance to come down and join you on another one of your rides Marty, they all look like tremendous fun!
  2. This is a long-standing joke for basically all of the wheel manufacturers concerning the Apps...
  3. Hey there! First, let me just say that I feel your pain. I had a similar experience when I first got my MSuper V3S+ a couple years ago and I was more than a little confused! It seemed like I was unable to set either the ride mode or the Tiltback speed using any of the Apps available at the time. Sometimes even initiating a recalibration didn't work! My solution to the problem was to perform that age-old ritual of spam-clicking the button, and it actually seems to be effetive! It may sound strange/silly/stupid, but as far as I can tell it is actually a common quirk that exists in all 3 Gotway wheels that I own. I have to rapidly send the command to change one of those settings several times over about 2 seconds before any of my wheels will accept the change and "save" it. The most confusing part is that, like you said, the wheel beeps an acknowledgement each time I press the button, whether it does anything or not... Anyway, try that and keep the wheel absolutely still while doing so! If it still doesn't work, there might be deeper problems, like Marty said.
  4. Interesting! I don't think I would have thought of that!
  5. Arbolest

    MSuper Pro?

    Wow, I didn't know that. How strange...
  6. Arbolest

    MSuper Pro?

    Basically all of them do this (at least the Gotways do). If they didn't they would start to overheat in a matter of minutes. Nothing to worry about.
  7. A couple things: 1) From my understanding of it, it's the no-torque RPM that is dependent on the motor, not the speed. The no-torque speed depends on a combination of the RPM and the circumference of the wheel the motor is driving. This means that even if the motors in the Nikola, MSX and Monster were all driven at the same voltage and duty cycle without any load (reaching the same RPM), they would still be "rolling" at different "speeds" . 2) The Monster that the new board is currently in (the one I was testing it in all day today and hit 36 before beeping) is actually an original Monster V1 built at some point after they started using the HB motors and the larger bullet connectors! Not sure if there are different winding setups within the motor manufacturer's HB classification, but if there are then that may explain something about the differences I'm seeing... 3) Taking point #1 into account, another possibility is that the firmware on the new board is actually designed for an MSX-type wheel (despite the sticker that clearly says Monster V3). This would lead to a situation where the difference in distance traveled per RPM of the motor would lead to the wheel going faster than it thinks it is --> beeping at a higher speed. Now, 22/19 (wheel diameters of Monster and MSX) is about 1.158, and if we multiply that by the assumed top speed of the 84v Monster (34mph) then we get something like 39mph. Add in the fact that I'm wearing bulky, drag-inducing riding gear and a backpack on a slightly windy day (headwind too xD) and I can absolutely see that 39mph getting cut down to 36mph! It makes one wonder... 4) I've actually never been able to get my trusty 84v Monster V2 to hit 34mph (as measured with my GPS speedometer) without beeping. The alarm would always go off at 32 or 33, sometimes lower depending on battery level. The fact that I was able to go so much faster with this control board on a Monster comprised of older hardware than my V2 tells me that, barring some kind of firmware mixup, the most likely cause is that they've managed to eek out a bit more efficiency in their new design somehow. I have no data on this of course, but I mentioned above that the ride sound was far quieter than even my V2 Monster, which points to them tuning the motor control algorithm even further than before. I'm not saying it's the reason, but it is certainly something I've been thinking about... 5) I actually tried when I got home after the extended ride, but if you recall that weird behavior thing that I mentioned in a prior post about the motor stopping much more quickly after it reaches its top no-load speed? Yeah, turns out that makes it darn hard to get an accurate read from the app
  8. Alrighty, I'm back from my extended ride today with the new control board! The short story is that it handles like a dream! 1) Gotway has somehow tuned their motor control algorithm to be even more silent than on the previous generation boards. It's almost eerie how there's nothing but tire noise now... and this is with an older Monster V1 motor! Compared to the Monster V2 it's noticeable, but it's like night and day compared with a V1! Anyone who has owned an older Gotway will remember/know the not-so-subtle whine they used to make... 2) Power at speed. This was incredible for me... I always use an external USB-powered GPS speedometer attached to the "nose" of all of my wheels (I don't trust the values reported by the wheels for a second...). I calibrate them in the car using my phone GPS and the car's speedometer to verify their accuracy. During today's ride, after I gained a bit of confidence in the wheel, I decided to see how it handled higher speeds, so I found a nice 2-mile long stretch of pot-hole free bike lane and slowly started creeping the speed up over 30mph. 31, good. 32, solid. 33, still solid. This is where the beeping started on my MSuper V3S+ and Monster V2 before, but the new board was still silent. I crept up to 34, still nothing. 35 and I was starting to get nervous, thinking I just couldn't hear the alarm over the wind noise, but the pedals were still rock hard and it wasn't showing any hesitation at all. I decided I'd push just a little higher as the road ahead was still smooth and there weren't any vehicles behind me at the time. I pushed to 36mph and finally heard the Gotway "Slow-the-heck-down" beep. This board allowed an 84v wheel to cruise comfortably up to 36mph while definitely NOT at 100% charge! (not that I suggest doing this honestly, it was kind of terrifying ) It felt just as assured and stable as my other Monster and never once did the pedals start to feel weak/soft or "sketchy". For reference, my ride weight with full gear is probably around 190 lbs. 3) I can't say anything about how efficient the board is on a distance/wh basis compared to any of my other wheels. I have a 2400wh battery pack and only went about 30 miles total today. That coupled with my "I'm testing the limits of some new hardware!" riding style means that I didn't even bother trying to calculate it. 4) Temperatures stayed below 45C every time I checked (no aggressive offroading or hill climbing to speak of though...) so it runs cool enough. The little 12v replacement fan I put in the case to replace the pair of 5v fans that came stock in my old Monster did just fine keeping the heat spread out inside the case, so I THINK the board is just as thermally stable as its predecessor. 5) Absolutely no issues with the "slightly less snug" motor wire connectors I'm using, so if nothing else you shouldn't have to worry if you're swapping one of these boards into an older wheel. So far I'd say this board is definitely a good step for Gotway!
  9. Woah, the double headlight looks really yellow in this shot! It almost matches your pants!
  10. Ok, small update! I installed the new control board in my old Monster Chassis (more on that later) and went for a spin around the block. Actually, I went for MANY spins around the block (god I love these wheels). Whatever firmware they installed on it has that same confidence-inspiring authority when it comes to power delivery when in hard and medium mode, but I detected a... words fail me here, but what almost seemed like a subtle, momentary jittery-ness or lack of surety in its responses sometimes when I was riding it in soft mode. Now, I primarily ride my monster in soft mode, so I don't think it's my imagination, but it might just have been the excitement playing tricks on my mind. We'll see... I'm going for a nice long ride with it tomorrow Anyway, a couple things I ran across while installing, testing and riding the board: 1) The 5-volt fans used on many older generations of wheels are NOT compatible with this board! This new board feeds the fan 12v, not 5v! I had plugged in the 5v fans that originally came with the Monster, and oh man, those things were SCREAMING Luckily I had a small 12v fan to swap in which allowed me to continue my testing... 2) On startup, the fan will ALWAYS turn on in a strange, quick-paced rhythmic pattern (tested with multiple fans). It ramps up to full speed, then lets itself die back down to near idle/stall speed, then repeats on an approximately 2-second cycle. I originally thought the board was malfunctioning, but after I gently heated the board with a small hair dryer to raise its temperature, the fan ramped up and held its speed until it cooled off, then repeated its strange "breathing" cycle. I'm guessing that the control board's active cooling algorithm is simply tuned to never actually turn the fan off for one reason or another. 3) I have confirmed that the bullet connectors on the new board are still 4.5mm connectors (too small for the 5mm bullets I tried out with them today). I was wrong... They are, however, definitely made for shorter male connectors than I have seen on other wheels in the past. Because of that, if you ever have the opportunity (or need) to install one of these boards in one of your wheels make sure to take proper care when putting the side panel back on, because your motor phase wires will be sticking up out of the board significantly higher (1/4" or more) than they were with past boards! If you're not careful, you could damage the board/connectors/wires! 4) The slight looseness I mentioned before concerning the new bullet connectors seems to be a non-issue. It appears to have simply been due to the particular connectors I was using as stand-ins for the ones that come from the Gotway factory (can't seem to find them anywhere online somehow...). I tried using the motor connectors from my old MSuper and they fit nice and tight, so no worries there. 5) This next one is a behavioral note that likely won't affect anyone, but I figured I'd throw it in here as well: When doing some lift tests to verify good operation of the board (one of the first things I do), I found that while the acceleration is smooth and power-delivery is exactly what you would expect from a modern Gotway, they seem to have adjusted how quickly the motor slows itself and stops when it reaches its no-load max speed! I performed the lift test a few times to be sure, and I found that the new board only holds its top speed for about a second now before REALLY slamming on the brakes. Like, the deceleration maneuver is WAY more emphatic than before. I don't know if Gotway is just getting less shy about using all of the power their hardware provides, but jeebus... Anyway, this is in contrast to all of my other wheels and the videos I've seen online of other Gotways which hold their max speed for about twice as long. Like I said, probably not going to affect anyone, but thought I'd mention it. That's all I have to report for tonight! I'll drop back in and add anything I notice during my extended ride tomorrow!
  11. After initially installing the new board in a Monster case, I am now less certain that the new bullet connectors on the board will be compatible with the currently used 4.5mm male bullets on Gotway motors... They are just a liiiiittle too loose for my liking. I think Gotway actually have moved up to a 5mm connector, and I should be able to get my hands on some later today to test that theory out properly. Also, due to the shallower depth of the connectors the motor phase wires are now sticking so high up out of the board that I cannot seem to install the side panel properly! Hmmm... Will update when I have new information!
  12. Today I got my hands on a new control board for an 84v Monster V3 that I intend to use in an upcoming custom wheel project (thanks a million @Jason McNeil!!!). Much to my delight, when I opened the package I found that it was one of the new-style boards that is being used in the MSP! Now, I know that there are a few pictures floating around of the new board (as well as some short video clips thanks to @Marty Backe and a few others) but since I couldn't find any that were close-in enough to let me see the detail I wanted, I figured I would take a few and post them here for everyone to check out!! First up, a comparison with the MSX-style board that it is replacing! (MSX-style on the left, MSP-style on the right) I was immediately struck by how much more compact the new control board is! By offloading the DC-DC converter onto its own daughter board they managed to really cram the components of this new board together! While I know it probably means nothing in practical terms, I worry about how much closer together the two rows of MOSFETS have come! especially their legs! The second thing I noticed is that the bullet connectors used for the motor phase wires are actually a bit different! The walls are definitely thicker! I tested out how well they interfaced with the 4.5mm male bullet connectors Gotway currently uses on their motor wires, and while it is definitely still a good connection, it is actually notably less snug than on the older board, and it also doesn't sink in as far (a difference of about 2-3mm)! I don't have any 5mm connectors on-hand to try out, but perhaps Gotway is moving up to a slightly larger connector size in the near future! Next, a straight(-ish ) overhead shot. You can really see in this shot how thick the walls of the new bullet connectors are! Also, while I am definitely a fan of color-coding all of the connectors for the switches, lights, power etc., I would just like to say I am NOT a fan of the super-similar orange and brown, especially with them sitting right next to each other... I mean come on Gotway! From "Below" From what I understand in Gotway's wiring diagram for this board, the 4-pin connector beneath the black ribbon cable is used for the new dual headlight, which I heard runs at 24v! Does anyone know what the pinout on that is? Also, I have no idea what the brown 2-pin connector next to it is for... I can't seem to find any reference to it! From the MOSFET and capacitor side As far as I can tell, the MOSFET packages haven't changed from the beefy TO-247 package we have come to love and expect. They are, however, now so close to one another that they might as well be considered touching, which makes me less comfortable... Also, as mentioned above, the two rows of MOSFETs are actually closer together now! As to the murmuring I have heard about the capacitors, I can confirm that these are indeed the same caps Gotway has been using on its larger 84v wheels for several years now. They match the ones I have on the control boards for my old MSuper V3S+, the MSX control board, and all 3 generations of the Monster's control board. And finally from the side of the new daughter board that holds the DC-DC converter As @Marty Backe mentioned before, the DC-DC converter is WAY beefier. From what I understand the 5v rail is capable of offering SEVERAL more amps of current than the anemic 1-amp or less that was previously available, which finally allows for fast charging via the USB ports, or even powering external devices for you fellow modders out there. Also, if we now have a 24v (and possibly 12v based on a little rumor I heard recently) supply we can tap, then that opens up a whole new world of aftermarket devices we can now think about adding to our wheels! (12v automobile lights anyone?...) Anyway, I'm terribly excited to get a chance to play around with this new board, so I'm gonna go do just that! Well... first I'm going to install it in my wheel and go ride it around, but then? SCIENCE!!!
  13. Actually, I have a cheap little off-brand dashcam built into the front of each of my wheels. They run off the wheels' USB ports, so they turn on and off automatically and I never need to worry about charging them!
  14. Aaaahhhhh, I THOUGHT I saw Rama in that great drone video! (The distinctive arm waving was a dead giveaway... )
  15. ... this is why we can't have nice things...
  16. It kind of looks like one is meant to be mounted in the top slot (under the handle) and one is meant to be mounted in the side slot.
  17. I don't know about a baby stroller, but I remember someone on the forums swearing by using a shopping cart...
  18. So your technique is only concerning a short moment or two at the very beginning of an acceleration maneuver, and not an entire ramp-up to full speed? Fascinating. So it's a transient effect instead of a prolonged one... I do admit that makes much more sense taken in that context, although there are still some finer points that I'm struggling to grasp considering that if I remember correctly you do NOT advocate gripping the side of the wheel with your legs at all?
  19. The amount that you lean forward doesn't really matter when it comes to getting our wheels to accelerate (you could be leaning straight forward parallel to the ground as long as you had something balancing you on the other side of the wheel's axle, but you still wouldn't move an inch). What matters is the leverage you're applying against the wheel's center of rotation and how much you can get the wheel to tilt forward so that it tries to correct that tilt resulting in an acceleration. If you want to apply more leverage using nothing more than your own body weight (which is how all of us ride and manipulate our wheels, regardless of style or technique, period) then you need to get your center of mass farther out in front of the wheel. Assuming you're already accelerating by leaning forwards normally, then by holding your arms out in front of you you're shifting your center of mass even farther forward and applying more of a tilt to the wheel. This results in the wheel accelerating harder in order to keep itself upright. However, if we instead assume that you pull your arms back behind you, then you are shifting your center of mass farther back and are now applying less of a tilt to the wheel. Even if you try and compensate for this by leaning farther forward so that your center of mass shifts a little bit toward the front, all it is doing is making you feel like you are "putting more mass in front". It does not actually allow you to accelerate faster. I think this has less to do with me realizing what you mean, and more to do with you realizing what you're saying... Not... entirely sure what you mean here... I mean, there are a couple things to talk about with this statement, but I'm going to focus on just 2 here: 1) Having a higher center of gravity (mass?) does not automatically or necessarily do anything to your balance. Strictly speaking, since we act as a kind of inverse pendulum when riding an EUC, having a higher center of mass actually makes the system more stable in the limited sense that it takes longer for it to fall into an irrecoverable state and therefore gives us more time to react and correct any imbalance. It seems to me that having a lower center of mass is really only better in the case of a system that's more statically stable, like a car or bike... Now, in no way am I saying this is the primary issue here, but the statement strikes me as a bit odd and out-of-place. 2) How would "moving your body weight back some" help at all in the event that your center of gravity is "shifted higher"? 1) How does leaning forward more help to compensate for your center of gravity being higher up? 2) Didn't you just say the opposite in the previous sentence? I'm pretty sure you said you have to "move your body weight back some."
  20. Hahaha, I don't think this is right at all. You're not putting more mass in front of the wheel when you pull your arms back. By pulling your arms back, you put more mass BEHIND you, which does mean that you have to lean farther forward in order to maintain equilibrium/balance, but doesn't really change where your center of mass is because like you said, it's just a counterbalance. Please excuse the bad MS-Paint skills here, but after looking at this picture, you tell me which method "puts more mass in front of the wheel". This is, of course, taken with the assumption that you're not changing the amount that you're leaning forward. If you change your lean angle then the comparison goes out the window...
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