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Arbolest

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About Arbolest

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  • Location
    Newark, California
  • EUC
    MSuper V3S+, Monster, Ninebot One E+

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  1. So your technique is only concerning a short moment or two at the very beginning of an acceleration maneuver, and not an entire ramp-up to full speed? Fascinating. So it's a transient effect instead of a prolonged one... I do admit that makes much more sense taken in that context, although there are still some finer points that I'm struggling to grasp considering that if I remember correctly you do NOT advocate gripping the side of the wheel with your legs at all?
  2. The amount that you lean forward doesn't really matter when it comes to getting our wheels to accelerate (you could be leaning straight forward parallel to the ground as long as you had something balancing you on the other side of the wheel's axle, but you still wouldn't move an inch). What matters is the leverage you're applying against the wheel's center of rotation and how much you can get the wheel to tilt forward so that it tries to correct that tilt resulting in an acceleration. If you want to apply more leverage using nothing more than your own body weight (which is how all of us ride and manipulate our wheels, regardless of style or technique, period) then you need to get your center of mass farther out in front of the wheel. Assuming you're already accelerating by leaning forwards normally, then by holding your arms out in front of you you're shifting your center of mass even farther forward and applying more of a tilt to the wheel. This results in the wheel accelerating harder in order to keep itself upright. However, if we instead assume that you pull your arms back behind you, then you are shifting your center of mass farther back and are now applying less of a tilt to the wheel. Even if you try and compensate for this by leaning farther forward so that your center of mass shifts a little bit toward the front, all it is doing is making you feel like you are "putting more mass in front". It does not actually allow you to accelerate faster. I think this has less to do with me realizing what you mean, and more to do with you realizing what you're saying... Not... entirely sure what you mean here... I mean, there are a couple things to talk about with this statement, but I'm going to focus on just 2 here: 1) Having a higher center of gravity (mass?) does not automatically or necessarily do anything to your balance. Strictly speaking, since we act as a kind of inverse pendulum when riding an EUC, having a higher center of mass actually makes the system more stable in the limited sense that it takes longer for it to fall into an irrecoverable state and therefore gives us more time to react and correct any imbalance. It seems to me that having a lower center of mass is really only better in the case of a system that's more statically stable, like a car or bike... Now, in no way am I saying this is the primary issue here, but the statement strikes me as a bit odd and out-of-place. 2) How would "moving your body weight back some" help at all in the event that your center of gravity is "shifted higher"? 1) How does leaning forward more help to compensate for your center of gravity being higher up? 2) Didn't you just say the opposite in the previous sentence? I'm pretty sure you said you have to "move your body weight back some."
  3. Hahaha, I don't think this is right at all. You're not putting more mass in front of the wheel when you pull your arms back. By pulling your arms back, you put more mass BEHIND you, which does mean that you have to lean farther forward in order to maintain equilibrium/balance, but doesn't really change where your center of mass is because like you said, it's just a counterbalance. Please excuse the bad MS-Paint skills here, but after looking at this picture, you tell me which method "puts more mass in front of the wheel". This is, of course, taken with the assumption that you're not changing the amount that you're leaning forward. If you change your lean angle then the comparison goes out the window...
  4. Luckily, I don't think this is it. The control board actually has a fair amount of clearance between it and the plastic ledge above it that supports the battery. I agree! I like questions, and I think it would be nice if Gotway questioned where the noise is originating from and whether it can be addressed. That said, I would just like to point out that the noise is not constant! It disappears at a threshold of around 2-3 mph and everything smooths out. If it was a failed electronic component that was causing it, then I don't believe the problem would just disappear with speed the way it does... Again, I feel that the issue originates from something strange in the way Gotway's firmware is designed, not something wrong with the control board or motor electronics. Just remember, Gotway doesn't purchase a separate motor controller, it's something they actually designed and implemented as part of their own control board. Because of that, they probably used some weird home-brew control algorithm for the motor instead of something plug-and-play that requires a separate, isolated set of control hardware to run on. Based on nothing more than my own observations (I haven't collected any data or done any rigorous testing to support this assumption) I think that what is going on is very simple: as the rotor turns and the motor needs to change which phases are being energized in order to continue its rotation in the desired direction, Gotway's control algorithm simply switches polarity and/or energized state without any type of ramp. I feel like if they would just implement a short attack ramp when switching phases (possibly reduced relative to rotational speed so available torque isn't lost) this cogging/growling effect would all go away and we would have our glorious silence at all speeds, even the low ones.
  5. Having owned 3 Gotway wheels now, each with the same behavior as @Planemo's MSX, I would say that it's most likely not caused by any issues with the wiring bundle coming from the motor (phase and hall sensor wires). I personally think it's more related to the firmware implementation that Gotway uses... specifically how abruptly it applies current to the motor as the rotor magnets pass the edges of the stator windings and the sudden changes in torque involved. In my opinion it kind of feels a little bit like a sawtooth wave is being used for control, but that is almost certainly my imagination... Based on this, I almost feel like what we mean when we say "cogging" isn't quite the same... For reference, I am talking about the phenomenon described at the following link, not something to do with intermittent motor "braking" due to an actual short in one of the wires. https://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/content/cogging-torque-in-permanent-magnet-motors/ Anyway @Planemo, like Marty said: I know you said that the weather where you are isn't the most conducive to riding right now, but trust me and just bundle up and take it for a spin. Once you're actually moving I think you'll find yourself bonding with your new "beast" rather quickly...
  6. While it is certainly very pronounced in your video, that is indeed the typical "cogging" sound that comes from basically every high-powered wheel in some form or another. Individual wheels have their own "voices", but they all have a bit of a growl to them. This noise has been spoken about several times on these forums by many different people, but there is one I reference I remember particularly fondly... I don't recall who said it, but the gist of the comment was: "All of the modern high-powered wheels do it, it's just that Gotways tend to be less polite about it." Anyway, it's nothing you need to worry about, and like you seem to have noticed already, as soon as you hit about 2-3 miles per hour the sound (and sensation) disappears and the wheel glides as smoothly as if it were on a sheet of glass.
  7. It's 5v out of the USB port. No worries there. Unfortunately I don't have an accurate measurement for how much current the port can provide, but you should be safe running a string or two of usb-powered lights. Make sure to post some pics when you do!
  8. That looks like it was a really pleasant ride! Very pretty! Also looks like you guys really picked up some speed!
  9. Based on the well-thought-out description you've given us above, I can honestly say that you would probably be happiest with either a Kingsong 18L/XL or the Inmotion V10/F. If you are concerned more about price, go with the Inmotion. That said, I notice that you've left the Gotway Tesla off the list, and that seems odd considering that you have an ACM on there! In terms of the Gotways, I think the Tesla is still the best value for money that you will be able to find, and even though the shape is completely different from a nice sleek V8, the Tesla should tick all the rest of your boxes except perhaps for the max range (still a massive improvement over the V8). I have bought myself 3 Gotways, and think they are all fabulous machines - no regrets at all. I have never even considered buying myself a wheel from a different brand. However, based on what you've said here, aside from the Tesla I can't honestly see a reason to recommend one of the higher-end Gotways over any of your other options.
  10. Use a penetrating oil like WD-40. Just make sure to actually follow the directions on the can and wait for the proper amount of time !
  11. I have heard of this actually! I believe that the tiny voltage meters they use are only good up to 99.9v, so when the battery nears full charge (100.8v I believe...) the meter can no longer display the voltage properly so it changes over to the "---" message, which is basically the same as it saying "Error". As far as I know, it should switch back to displaying numbers normally when the voltage drops down below 100v again. That said, I have no idea why it is displaying those mystery numbers otherwise. I think erides may be right in saying that the led display is probably miswired... It sounds like the bottom segment of the left-most number is being swapped with the top left segment... I think they're right that if you use your wheel until the voltage drops into the 80's, it will likely start displaying correctly. If this is the case, then it''s not really something you can fix easily, so I would suggest just contacting erides again and asking for a replacement voltage meter, or just taking yours out and finding a cheap drop-in replacement for it on eBay or Amazon.
  12. Arbolest

    New MTEN 3 Board

    I can certainly second this
  13. Arbolest

    New MTEN 3 Board

    Now that would be something to look forward to! If so, I bet a lot of people would be hard pressed not to click that purchase button! (myself included )
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