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Arbolest last won the day on May 3 2020

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About Arbolest

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    Fremont, California
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  1. This link has options for both 1/4" and 1/8", but the rolls are a little smaller than I'm used to. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRMQ5ZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Just remember that neoprene sometimes has a strong "rubber" smell when you take it out of the package that some people find unpleasant. It will go away eventually, but just be aware of it.
  2. Do it! In all my builds I use either 1/8" or 1/4" thick Neoprene sheets with adhesive on one side to make a cradle for my batteries. Works great and definitely helps with my peace-of-mind! You can get them on Amazon for between $10 and $30 a roll which will give you 7-8 square feet of padding that you can apply any way you like. I use strategic strips to cushion my battery packs, but even if you covered every square inch of the packs (or the spaces for them in the euc shell) you would still have a lot left over after buying a roll, so I think it's a good buy!
  3. Are you looking for something to wear on its own or do you want something that you can throw on over whatever else you're wearing (jeans?)
  4. You have my sincerest condolences. I hope that the cause can be brought to light quickly.
  5. Just speaking based on my own assumptions here, but I'm going to say that no, the fuse change wouldn't have helped in this case. As far as I can tell, the fuses are there to keep a potential short from damaging the battery packs and/or causing a fire. They're not going to protect the board from blowing itself as it's perfectly possible for 30+30=60 amps to blow a board if it's put in a bad situation, such as the wheel seizing and all of the current getting dumped into a single motor phase for a solid couple seconds.
  6. As far as I can tell, yes, all of the wheels were incapacitated in some way due to them seizing from mud. Luckily, I've heard that at least one of the Shermans we thought blew a board actually survived the ordeal and will still turn on now that the owner has cleared most of the mud from the wheel well! I know for a fact this is not the case for all of them though... I've seen pictures of the internal carnage...
  7. Actually the reason was something none of us expected! Ahem ahem... The morning started out with a constant falling mist/drizzle. The ride was going to be cancelled for fear of the trails being un-rideable but it let up just enough that we decided to go ahead with it. It started out fine and we were able to ride the early trails and the warmup to Overheat Hill with basically no issues. The sun peeked out slightly at one point and we thought the weather was going to take a turn for the better, however when we left the warm-up and headed for the actual Overheat Hill, we had to traverse
  8. The bonus day (day 8) at Overheat Hill was a wheel-pocalypse! One wheel went off a cliff, and 6 other wheels were incapacitated (4 Shermans, a 16x and a Nikola). The crazy part is that we never even made it to Overheat Hill itself!
  9. I definitely support this 100% I didn't mean to imply that I think every wheel should come with a mandatory built-in charger, I just got excited thinking about wheel mods like I typically do.
  10. Maybe some of my comments were ambiguous. I wasn't suggesting the cost of designing and properly integrating a custom charger from scratch would be equivalent. I kind of had in mind my simple, DIY/hacky way of dropping in pre-fab charger electronics into an empty void in a wheel. Unprofessional, I know, but it works and I like it.
  11. Not sure I agree with most of the things written here. I have personally built 3-amp chargers into 2 of my wheels (MSuper and Monster V2). I love the convenience and had almost no issues with the process or results. 1. The added weight was negligible, basically unnoticeable. 2. They were built into the empty spaces already incorporated into the wheel so didn't require any additional shielding or protection. 3. More complicated to make: only slightly. More expensive: not significantly. 4. You will only pay significantly more for the wheel if you are comparing the price of a
  12. Even though the wheel's "full" voltage is just over 100v, the voltmeter can actually only display up to 99.9v, so whenever the voltage is higher it just displays dashes. Just ride your wheel around for a while and it will start displaying properly once the voltage drops a bit
  13. That depends on how the charge port and charging cable are wired. Each pin in that connector is only rated for about 5-6 amps, so if you have a charger and a wheel that are both double-wired, you can safely charge faster. Otherwise (or if you're not sure), I wouldn't try going over 5 amps.
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