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Slartibartfast

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  • Location
    Canberra
  • EUC
    Sherman-S, MSX, KS16s

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  1. I'm in the market for some pads and thought these look pretty cool: Anyone know what they are? Here's a link to the full video if anyone's interested:
  2. Hello, I will be in Finland for 7 weeks from late June till early August and am hoping to be able to ride an EUC while there. I have been riding for many years and would love to take my Sherman-S with me but shipping from Australia is prohibitive, so I'm hoping I might be able to borrow (or possibly) purchase an older wheel while there, possibly an MSX or RS or something. As I say, my current wheel of choice is Leaperkim's Sherman-S but I rode a Gotway MSX for many years before and really won't need anything fancier than that for the time. So if anyone in Finland (or possibly Estonia) that has a cheaper older wheel they'd be willing to loan (or possibly sell) I'd be interested in hearing from you. All the best, Slarti.
  3. And there in lies the problem. Not meaning to simply restate exactly what @fbhb said above, but the problem is the confusion between bicycle tyres and motorcycle tyres. What you're saying there Andrew is correct if you confirm to motorcycle standards. The problem is that many put bicycle tubes in the tyres, and these are measure differently... and that's before we even get to the counting of barley corns: πŸ™„
  4. That does actually look pretty good: πŸ‘ Seems it has a ledge to rest your second finger against to keep it from slipping around. I might give it a go, though $67.50 AUD (including shipping) is a surprising amount to pay for a bell! Those finger bells I use to get were like 5 USD or something back in the day.
  5. Yeah, I've tried those as well. Two issues with them. Firstly they just aren't really as clear or loud as the dome shaped bell, and secondly they don't have that second notch for your other finger meaning you have to grip it firmly like the other handlebar mount bells. It's also very easy for that bar to touch the fabric of you glove or whatever and deaden the sound. They do work, but their just not as good. (they're also nowhere near 90dB in amplitude)
  6. Thanks @Clem604. Unfortunately they won't ship to me in Australia, but I have to say they seem very similar to the handlebar Rockbros bell that is available. The Rockbros bell is also very loud (louder than any others I've tried), the issue with it is that you really have to clench your fist to get it to grip onto you finger. The thing that is nice with the "finger bell" design is that your next finger snugs into that second loop making it very easy to hold loosely in you hand and ping it with just you fingertips. As I say, I've tried many other designs and while they all work none have been as good as that one, but I just can't seem to find it anymore: πŸ˜” Edit: For anyone interested here is a listing on AliExpress of the bell Clem is suggesting that will ship around the world: Greallthy Classic Brass Bicycle Bell One thing interesting in the video associated with that listing is that it is mounted along side the Rockbros bell and right at the end it seems the rider hits the other (Rockbros) bell so you can hear how the chimes compare. Indeed, both are very clear!
  7. Dose anyone know of a way to get these finger bells: They're called "Finger Bells" and were made by Rockbros and use to be relatively easy to get on AliExpress and things but seem to have completely vanished in recent years. While there are a few listings on Amazon they are all listed as "Currently out of stock". There are also a few on DHGate, and I've tried to order from them on several occasions but every time, after a month or so, they've said the item isn't available and have refunded me (but still seem to keep the listings up). I know there are several simular-ish models such as the "Runbell": And Rockbros handlebar mount version of the finger bell: And the PowerSlide bell: But I have tried all of these (and several others) and none have been nearly as good as the original "Finger bell". I bought and subsequently lost several of the original bell and am now down to my final 2 copies of those original bells and would very much like to get more incase I loose these final two. Note the spring mechanism does eventually ware out on these bells and you need to pull them out and bend them back into shape when the bell tone gets quieter, and I've even scavenged parts from the new handlebar mount bels to reinvigorate mine but if you loose those finger pieces there seems to be no way to replace them. Does anyone know of anywhere these original Finger Bells can be obtained from?
  8. Yeah, I had the same issue after about a month and a little under 500km of riding. I was on a group ride and went to turn my wheel on again after a stop and while I don't recall exactly what I saw the screen did look a little funny and the wheel wouldn't really turn "on". I just did a long press which turned the wheel off, then when I powered it on again the wheel worked fine although all settings were reset, including the odometer (mileage) –and, although I didn't realise it at the time, it also reset the speed warnings. So for the next leg of our group ride my wheel's alarm was blearing away whenever we increased speed over 20 km/h, until we stopped again and I had a chance to go through the menus and set the alarm speed to something more reasonable. Most embarrassing: 😊
  9. Yup, I would say that is a very good guess:
  10. Yeah, it was all fine after replacing the board... though I did replace the whole wheel not long after:
  11. In this video recently posted by Hsiang at the 6 minute mark he is talking to someone wearing what looks like a modular MTB helmet: Can anyone identify this helmet?
  12. Wow, that was an amazingly relevant video! I even checked the publication date part way through just to make sure it wasn't actually made in response to this discussion: Thanks Elwood.
  13. Yeah, I do "fully charge" every so often to enable the cells to balance but I like to do so at a trickle. Depending on how much time I have I typically charge my current wheel at 4 or 5 amps up to 80%, then "top it off" at 1 or 2 amps. (note my current wheel came with a 1.5 amp charger so 5 amps is a fair bit over what the factory supplied) From what I understand most the heat (and there for damage) that charging causes happens in that last part of the charge. For this reason "smart chargers" that come with mobile phones throttle the last part of the charging to preserve the longevity of the battery. This is why they make claims like "80% charge in 20 minutes" or what ever they say. That's because they can subject the charger to full load up to 80%, but then have to throttle it back to prevent batt damage. The idea of charging at 15 amps right the way up to 100% does kind of leave me feeling a little uneasy, even if the manufacturer says it's okay. So if we assume 100.8v is 100% and 75v is 0%, does that mean 80% is as simple as: 75 + (100.8 - 75) * 0.8 = 95v
  14. That's not a bad though. I assume the Sherman-S is fully charged at 100.8v. Does anyone know what the "fully discharged" voltage is? I assume it's nowhere near 0v
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