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About beast@tanagra

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  • EUC
    MTen3, V10F, V5F, MCM5

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  1. LOL @ 1:55. A spaceport indeed. Every service available -- and at a reasonable cost!
  2. You're a legend, meepmeepmayer! Great photos, as usual. There's no one on this forum I more want to see with a new wheel under them. Get on that!
  3. Glad you're ok. Could have been a lot worse. I've probably only taken my mten3 up to those speeds a couple of times for short bursts on known, smooth terrain. It's a wheel without rival in the slow game -- tight turns, backwards tricks, mingling with pedestrians and such -- but it's just not a good cruising wheel. It's unforgivably bouncy when taking bumps at speed, and it loves to pull into ridges and grooves. With more riding experience, the suspension system that is your feet and legs will improve and give you a larger buffer against the sort of encounter that threw you -- but for the kind of riding you're doing, I would strongly suggest getting a wheel with a larger diameter.
  4. I would refer also to my experience here. It wasn't complicated, but there were complications.
  5. Sounds about right. I generally shoot for the low 30s when I inflate mine. The MTen3 was also my first wheel. Like you, I, too, found my first experience with a larger wheel utterly foreign. "Freight train" puts it well. Turning a ~17-incher felt like I was asking a giant slab of metal to come crashing down onto my ankles. But you will want a bigger wheel sooner than you might have thought, especially if you're already doing trips where you're actually trying to get somewhere. Beyond straight-line balance, the skills you learn on the MTen3 may not seem to transfer, but your patience and confidence of ultimately mastering the beast will. (A 14" wheel will not be as challenging a jump as 17"+.) Always fun reliving the newbie ups and downs. Thanks for sharing!
  6. I'm more south, in the East Valley (Greater Phoenix area), but if it ever seems I might cross paths with you, I might take you up on that offer . Sedona is pretty great. Been wanting to take my wheels up there at some point. There are at least a few other riders around Phoenix, and several more down in Tucson, but I've yet to encounter another EUC in wild, except for on a recent trip to Paris, where I saw several. The US EUC ridership seems to skew older, especially as compared to Asia, but I feel like this is starting to shift. So, wow, I may have literally been in diapers at the time. I'm not as old as I feel sometimes, hehe.
  7. Am I the only one wondering how they produced a new control board so quickly? How long does a board take to design, produce, test and ship? It's Gotway, so I'll presume they're leaving step 3 to Marty, but doesn't this board have to be from some other product? Hopefully a 100v Nikola, but perhaps a different wheel altogether, one wired very differently?
  8. You're talking to a bunch of mostly older guys one cut-out away from a face plant, so calling you crazy is a little bit of a pot-calling-kettle-black thing. I, for one, feel that the retirement years are probably the best time to take up those hobbies where outright death is one of the likelier Bad Day scenarios, especially if you've had a good run, have your affairs in order, etc. So, yeah, I get it! I'm jealous, really. I, too, had looked into paramotoring a while ago. I gave up on the idea because I can't quite afford it, live in a crappy area for it, still have school-aged kids, only a small car, etc. I got into EUCs to distract me from the air, and because I figured I could do a lot more riding than I would ever be able to do flying. Check, and check! But whatever your ultimate fuel-porting solution, you might consider an EUC for its intrinsic, grounded pleasures . Perhaps it will evolve into a pushing/towing/one-way-sprinting component of your master plan.
  9. This was my experience, and that of my wife and two kids. I pushed myself for hours on my first days, but learned no quicker than the others working in 15-minute intervals spread over time. Another comment I'll add here is that progression tends to come in spurts that depend on the wheel and might be quite spread apart in time and mileage. I learned on a tiny Mten3, and took days to be able to stay up and turn, and weeks before things clicked and I felt fluid. When I got my huge-by-comparison V10F it was like starting all over again: days of terror before I could make turns confidently, and weeks stretching into months before I truly bonded with it. My MCM 5 was an even odder case. Being in the middle, size-wise, I had no difficulty maneuvering right out of the gate, but it seemed to demand a kind of grandmotherly handling I wasn't too fond of, and I didn't ride it very often. It was nearly a year and some 500 miles before it suddenly felt like the sporty carver it was supposed to be, and now I can't get enough of it. In fact, thinking back, I would say 300-500 miles was about what it took to really bond with each of my wheels, where this was a mix of straight-line cruising and twisty maneuvering. This is something I try to keep in mind when people share their impressions of a wheel they've only had for an hour, or a day, or a week -- especially if it's of a type outside their usual experience. So be patient and enjoy the progression. It's a slower-burning thrill than it first appears.
  10. The thought of riding rough surfaces on an EUC with a hundred pounds of fuel sloshing at my sides is giving me the willies from a balance and safety perspective. It could be done, but unless you're a featherweight yourself, you would need a higher powered (heavier) wheel to safely handle the load on hills or rough terrain. My hunch is that you're going to want a 2-wheeled device, if not 4-wheeled -- like e-bike, size. That probably blows your weight budget, but there it is.
  11. Mine is in MPH, too, but I don't remember how. You can change temperature unit from C to F in Application.
  12. I concur on the MCM5. It is my errand-runner of choice for the utility reasons @Kens mentioned, even if I prefer my larger wheel for overall ride-feel.
  13. Rack as many as three wheels for under twenty bucks and zero labor by using off-the-shelf bed risers. Pros: Cheap, simple, sturdy, works with any size wheel (my MTen3 up to V10F, at least). Tire completely off floor. Portable. Cons: Takes a little bit of dexterity while stowing wheel to plant the bases of the pedals directly over the risers. Risers easy to knock out of position if you screw up. If I was just a tiny bit less lazy, I would use the screw holes that already exist in the bases of my risers and screw them into a piece of plywood (or even cardboard) so they can no longer be bumped out of position.
  14. Now that I've concluded this little adventure with the help of @Jason McNeil (eWheels) and the engineers of Inmotion USA, I thought I'd share my report here in case anyone else runs into the same issue. Last Friday, my wife attempted to power on my V10F (of about 460 miles) and take it for a short spin to the store, as she sometimes does. As she describes it, the battery display was seen to illuminate briefly, but never finished, going dark. The power button became unresponsive, but the brake light was on at high illumination. In this zombie state, the motor was not engaged, and there was no app connectivity, but there was bluetooth speaker connectivity and working speakers. It also appeared to be accepting a charge when it was plugged in, judging from the red light on the charger and the brick's normal operating warmth. If you're wondering why we would plug it in instead of taking it outside, my wife didn't know the whole backstory behind the earlier recall this wheel had returned from a month earlier. She thought maybe the battery was too dead to turn on. When I came home and heard the story, I was much more panicked. Inability to power off screamed, "fire risk!" to me, and I banished the wheel to the back porch. Naturally, my misfortunes like to happen on the weekend, so it took a couple days to get an actionable response to my panicked queries. I figured it could take many days to discharge the battery at that rate, and this would ultimately prove true. My wheel was now a heavy, expensive, possibly incendiary traffic cone. Jason advised me to open up the shell on the control board side and try to disconnect the battery. At best, a hard reset might fix it. At worst, I would need to power it off to ship it. The procedure looked simple enough, according to the dismantling video I was sent a link to. The video lied. The pedal has to come off first, and this proved to be a nightmare to dismantle. Not depicted or described in the video were hard plasticky nylon pressure fittings that sit between the pedal axle and the outer cap screws. They like to become stubbornly lodged once installed, preventing axle removal. Over the next few days, I ended up purchasing a heavy soft hammer and a set of steel punches, since this is what the Inmotion people said they use to pound the pedal axles out in such cases. But brute force never did work for me. I'm no mechanic, and just didn't have the shop setup to vice it in place and apply proper leverage. In the end, I spent hours chiseling with a hammer and screwdriver to chip out the last traces of nylon on one side so that I could use a narrow punch on the other to drive the axle out. With the pedal off, the rest of the shell removal was relatively straightforward. The control board was still on enough to have a blinking green light. I had no difficulty unplugging the power cable and plugging it back in. The wheel powered up and self-balanced just fine after that. It really did just need a reset. In all, I estimate it went through about half of a full charge during its ~130 hours in zombie mode, a figure that might be of some value in determining which subsystems were active. It's an interesting design question: How high does the rate of zombie brickings have to be before there ought to be a reset button? It's easy to say that one is not enough until the one happens to you and gives you the week that I had. I was able to reassemble the wheel and ride it for several miles yesterday -- Jason sent me replacement fittings speedy quick -- and the wheel seems fine. But from now on there's always going to be a trace of anxiety whenever I go to power this thing on.
  15. I own and ride both regularly; these are my main two wheels. Both are good at what they do, but are very different. You know the prices and specs, and the typical virtues of different-sized tires. so let me describe the feeling: It's planted vs. poised; one's a nimble tool, the other is a virtuoso partner. The MCM5 is very intuitive and will do anything you want without fighting you on it (except with some occasional, inconsistent pedal dip coming out of turns -- maybe that's just mine, though) The V10F is more of an acquired taste that requires longer-term practice. It'll also do anything you want (within its well documented-technical limitations), but you have to learn the right way to ask* it. You'll know you have it when this heavy wheel feels weightless during maneuvers. (*The high pedals mean it can do things you might not have thought to ask -- I tend to pedal scrape the MCM5.) When I reach for one of these two, it's usually the V10F, because I feel like more of my body is in on the action, leaning with the turns and mirroring the shape of the ride. I find that it rides best a little underinflated, making it grippy and carve-happy. Fully inflated, it's a bit squirely, riding on a very narrow band of flat center tread and becoming briefly unstable whenever you turn just enough to take it off that band.
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