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About TomOnWheels

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  1. Thanks @null ! I really want to invest in something of the best quality. I will take some time to fix lot of things on my KS11L: tire, trolley, bearings and maybe sides (if only I can find new ones for a decent price)... So lot of info to look for before starting :-)
  2. What about CHAO YANG H-666 ? Need to change mine soon, and wondering if this ref is good enough...
  3. Dude !!! After update it will feel like a brand new wheel !!! :-)
  4. 18XL is old and for me the best wheel. Latest versions are almost free of issues so if you are looking for an everyday commutation wheel, it's a perfect choice. I do about 20-30km per day on mine for now almost 3 years and I'm very very happy with it.
  5. @Seba, quick question: why do you even bother yourself responding to this kind of posts ? Seriously, ignoring it is the best you can pay for it ! Also while spending time responding, you stop developing EUC, and finally you will make us miss some amazing new features ! :-)
  6. I think it is now fixed on new motherboards (V1.5). I remember being in close contact with KS for this issue and they had really hard time to identify where it comes from... ESD protection is not an easy job...
  7. First of all this issue happens only when not riding. Then to my understanding this is due to electric charges accumulation and happens most of the time with trolley extended, and on a surface or places witch produce strong static electricity. I know places here, usually shops, where I can reproduce this almost 100% of time.
  8. There are two Bluetooth modules on KS18 motherboard. One for data and another for audio. One is part of motherboard and another one is soldered on motherboard... I'm not 100% sure but I think the one soldered directly is the one responsible for data transmission... So in this case you will have to change all the motherboard. It is not so difficult for someone with basic technical knowledge. To me it sounds like some parts are unsoldered, so maybe inspect your KS motherboard before changing it (around $300 for a new one)
  9. Same on ks18L... Well all that is because of poor design despite a simplicity of a EUC... Maybe a larger washer on both sides of the axis will help...
  10. Frankly, seeing the amateurism of KS, I just can dream of them using right material, calculating forces and robustness like it's done for car or bike industry...
  11. Thanks @ShanesPlanet! Yes, I would like to avoid messing with batteries as much as possible... I don't have proper equipment anyway to try to charge it directly. I use KS18L on daily bases, but I'll try to save my old good Solowheel just, well, because it was one of my 1st EUC :-) I think that it's simply a kind of safety feature of BMC to not charge under certain voltage or maybe the charger need certain voltage level, to detect that there is a load to charge... Anyway, I will take care of it this week-end and post here how it goes !
  12. Sure ! I will give it a try ! I read somewhere that under certain voltage it will refuse to charge. Also I remember that when you turn the wheel by hand, solowheel light are blinking. So actually, before dismounting it, I will try to use a driller to quickly turn the wheel. I know it sounds crazy, but it will maybe charge the battery just enough for a normal charging then...
  13. Unfortunately it won't even power on. It refuse to charge. So vampire drain seems to be right there on Solowheel Xtrem...
  14. Yes @ShanesPlanet, I will give it a try tonight and let you know !
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