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Matahalii

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About Matahalii

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  • Location
    Germany, Hannover
  • EUC
    Ninebot One S2

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  1. Wenn du sie nur dafür benutzen willst, guck auf Ebay Kleinanzeigen, da gibts doch immer mal wieder was.
  2. For me the great advantage is that I CAN go faster. On average I don't ride faster than before, but I can travel around 20-22kph and do not get the annoying beeps and tilting every minute. And I am able to keep up in a group with others that have bigger machines. I will not ride constantly at 30kph. I know that this is not what this device is built for.
  3. Hi there, I had the idea last weekend. We were on a tour with 5 people and went into a beer garden for lunch. We all wanted to charge up our wheels of cause and we were allowed, but we only found one outlet in the near of our table. Luckily one friend brought an adapter(1-3) but we were 5. The two others took another outlet somewhere else. I just finished my tour-friendly charger cable. European(german) plug of cause. If I find a power outlet, anyone else can put another charger in. Or I can plug it between anything that's plugged anyhow. Switchable, because that's what this adaptor was meant for and why not. I made the cable very short, so it packs decent small in my lumbar pack.
  4. NINETOOL will do the job, but you must get a payed code from the develloper via Email/Paypal. It can change the firmware to other models of the ninebot one lineup, including a "super" Version that goes up to 30KPH (calculate miles yourself). But you can probably do the same via Speed2Increase without any payment
  5. Ah thanks! so you plug in the original charger via the Motherboard and a second one via the drawn GX connector but all in the same cirquit. right?
  6. Nice little how-to here. I stopped by to hopefully get advice. My battries are somehow weak now. I can ride approx 15-18km with fully charged packs. In the app all is very even. No bigger discrepances between both packs. But where has capacity gone? I was able to ride 25km+ on one charge at minimum? I Pulled the packs out at about 65% Charge (app) and measured the cells: Pack 1: long row: 3,80 3,81 3,80 3,81 3,79 3,87 3,86 3,87 3,87 3,86 short row: 3,88 3,87 3,88 3,88 3,88 (V) Pack 2: long row: 3,76 3,77 3,76 3,77 3,77 3,87 3,86 3,86 3,86 3,87 short row: 3,88 3,88 3,89 3,88 3,89 (V) both read the same data via the app, but Pack 2 has more of the weaker cells, whilst in both packs the short row has the strongest cells. No cell seams to be really odd. Any suggestions?
  7. By the way: Gefühlt wird ja jeder kleine Vorfall mit den Scootern in den Medien ausgeschlachtet und so passiert dauernd etwas, bis hin zu Todesfällen. Aber was nicht in den Top-Schlagzeilen erscheint ist DAS HIER oder DIESES. "Täglich stirbt mindestens eine Radfahrerin oder ein Radfahrer auf unseren Straßen und alle halbe Stunde wird eine Person auf dem Rad schwer verletzt" Abgesehen von der Tatsache, dass man wohl frühestens nach einem Jahr eine vernünftige Statistik zu den E-Rollern erwarten kann, wenn man jetzt die Argumentation ernst nimmt, ist das Fahrrad viel zu gefährlich und müsste verboten oder viel strenger reglementiert werden. Ach ja, Statistiken. Mich würde dann aber auch interressieren, wie sich die Fälle unterscheiden, bei denen Leihscooter gefahren werden vs. Eigentum. Bei der Parkrowdy-Problematik bin ich mir ja schon klar, wie das ausfällt.
  8. Can you make a quick graphic how your Z10 is wired now? Can I or must I charge the external batteries seperate? It's faster, yes, but you must watch the exact voltages every time you charge and in most cases charging time is not critical. In the meantime I had a maybe great idea: I must put the extra cells anywhere - anyhow. What if I open the original battery cases of the S2, solder a (new) cell in parallel to the existing ones, close the thickened packs with a good tape, shrinktube or even silicone to get two packs of 15S2P. They would use the existing BMS, would charge via the original way but double time. Doesn't bother me, because you can still charge the same amount of milage than before per hour. The easiest from the electrical view. But you end up with thicker batteries. But maybe you can somehow rework the sidecovers and squeeze them in...
  9. Would it be possible to do this to my Ninebot One S2? The S2 has 2 batteries (15S 1P) which are handled seperately by the Motherboard. Can I hook up one extra 15S 1P to each one to double the milage? Extra batteries would be stored in extra box mounted on the sides... And why can't you charge the parallel battery with the main charger, just by double time?
  10. Thanks MRN76! Just unchained my S2 to 30. Tested immediately but felt courious to go faster than I did before. I had to push myself ... But still not hit the limit, I have to get braver and get better armor... Just in case.
  11. Hey folks! I am thinking of external battery pack(s) for my S2 to increase the range. Making the battery pack(s) with BMS is not the problem now, connecting them would not be either, but where to put them? Can anyone think of a solution other than making an extension cable and carry them in a backpack? I guess there is not enough space under the hood for placing 2x15 solo cells and the BMSes like one did with 15 cells in the Ninebot E+.
  12. Proven the possibility of towing with a simple screw-through-eyelet, I refined the hitch today. I ordered a de-attachable ball-pivot M5 with securing-clip, which replaces the worm screw for the bolt of the footpeg on one side. The ball is 8mm. Then I installed a stronger steel rod to link the pivot with the side towing bar. I gave it some important bends to have the biggest avaliable freedom for tilting in every direction and also cornering. I will have to replace the Aluminium-L-profile towing bar with a square-profile for stiffness. The width of the axle is not wider than my feet on the footpegs of the Ninebot. So for straight driving I will not have to worry about the trailer hitting an obstacle. I tested this with 8kg of load in the garden (lawn) Details:
  13. I thought a lot about the "Neutral Point" and came to the simple conclusion that the exact middle of the Wheel is that position. Of cause you can't attach something there. If you move the point back/forth it will affect mainly the cornering. Hitch in the back means Accelleration in curve will twist the wheel to straight, braking in curve will twist inwards. Not very safe, because the driver must compensate that. If you move the point of attachement sideways accelleration and braking means pushes to side. If you move the point up/down at accelleration/braking the trailer will have influence over the ballance that is hold by the electronics. And last but not least you got to go with the sturdiest point you can find. And you must get around the room you need for your feet including getting on/off. This way I took the hole for the pinscrew. It is about 6cm (2,5inch) sideways off the center and about 10cm under the axle. Forth/back Movement is compensated by the electronics quite well. At braking and accelleration you can feel a tiny little push sideways but it is well to handle
  14. Hello Folks! Since I got my Ninebot, I was asking myself how to carry luggage without a Backpack that will hurt my shoulders. I had an idea and built it yesterday. The Video shows the second ride. In the trailer I was carrying a 5kg canister of fertilizer for the flowers. Some details must be improved but all I wanted at this stage was a Proof-of-Concept. For instence the towing beam is very low as you can see it pushes the hoses over the grass. But works on flat-level street. VIDEO
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