Jump to content

Inductores

Full Members
  • Content Count

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

56 Excellent

1 Follower

About Inductores

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Spain

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I attach a photo with the current status of the board layout. I would say 90% done:
  2. The problem with Teensy 3.5 is that the uC comes in a BGA package, being quite more difficult to be soldered...
  3. I still didn't finish the schematic, but some parts (like the shunt for current measurement) are optimised for 84V. If you use 67.2V then some values of the voltage dividers should change, but the changes are basically resistors (and probably some capacitors if bigger capacitance is needed). In any case, I can always make a second variant for 67.2V (even a 100V variant can be made). In fact, I think a good combination of Cortex-M4 and Arduino environment is the use of a MK20DX256VLH7 uC: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html I think it's powerful and fast enough, "easy" to program and relatively cheap.
  4. 84V, but I guess it can also be used with 67.2V changing some components (basically voltage dividers and gain resistors). At this moment is just a copy of the Rockwheel GT16 board. I don't mind to change the uC, but I need someone capable of developing some working FW. If you can collaborate, I can change it, no problem.
  5. And finally, (I think) I placed all the components, so now I have to route the missing traces and planes. As you can see, I also added the three additional capacitors implemented in V1.4 for the three motor outputs.
  6. If your GT16 rides like this: Take a look to the bottom soldering on your board: Just found on a new GT16 board, rev. 1.4
  7. I´'m just curious... do you have any photos of the batteries? I think in the first model both battery packages were installed on the sides and the controller board on the top. But now the controller board is on one side. So what about the batteries?
  8. I worked a little bit more with the schematic and layout, waiting for some photos from the missing SOIC-8 IC's and the "transistor?" next to the right electrolytic capacitor
  9. Why? Only if you don't erase the Flash memory you won't brick anything
  10. Hello, could you please try to read the original firmware from the microcontroller? It might be under read-out protection, but it would be great to get it if possible.
  11. You can get a cheap STM32 board like this (I would get two, just in case...): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-STM32F103C8T6-ARM-STM32-Minimum-System-Development-Board-Module-Forarduino/32525208361.html Also the STM32 programmer: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-Smart-Electronics-ST-LINK-Stlink-ST-Link-V2-Mini-STM8-STM32-Simulator-Download-Programmer/32756146997.html The black board in the upper left is just a breadboard "power supply" to get +3V3 and +5V without using the Arduino voltage regulator: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-MB102-Breadboard-Power-Supply-Module-3-3V-5V-MB-102-Solderless-Bread-Board-DIY/32523783614.html I'm using a MPU6050 module, but it could be upgraded to a newer one, right now is "obsolete" by the manufacturer. Anyway: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-521-MPU-6050-MPU6050-Module-3-Axis-analog-gyro-sensors-3-Axis-Accelerometer-Module/32246225983.html And you also need a Bluetooth module. The one I'm using is this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/WAVGAT-AT-09-4-0-Bluetooth-module-for-ble-with-backplane-serial-BLE-CC2540-CC2541-Serial/32826166129.html But the original board from Rockwheel is this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Keyestudio-HC-08-Bluetooth-Master-Slave-Module-Transceiver-for-Arduino-Compatible-with-iOS-and-Android/32907441181.html I guess this is enough to start with the development
  12. Yes, I know the layout is not finished yet... but I built a small setup in which I can test a new firmware (if I can get some help from you...) If you want to try, this is my setup: Instead of using a physical wheel, the Hall sensor from the wheel could be simulated using an Arduino Mega and so to get some simulated values (like speed or distance). This setup is quite cheap to build using modules and boards from AliExpress and eBay, so if you have some knowledge I would be glad to receive help from you. ...and yes, I'm still working on the layout.
  13. Thanks for the info. I already checked the first link, but it doesn't work with the STM32F1XX... I also checked the second link, I even installed the original IC replacing the original IC from one of those boards, but got nothing...
  14. Ninebot (at least with the E+ model) doesn't protect the uC against readout. There are some ways to unlock the protection, but I don't know if I can do it...
  15. Bad news about extracting the .bin from the uC, it's protected against Read Out
×
×
  • Create New...