Jump to content


Full Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

250 Excellent

1 Follower

About Rotciv

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  • EUC

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looks like the low side left most phase failed. I would try replacing the MOSFETs, but I would be cautious with the motor. A failure like that is usually the effect of shorted motor or the leads to the motor. If you have a milliohm meter, check each phases of the motor. If you don’t have a meter, you can use a variable power supply and put a known voltage and current and measure the voltage drop. Here’s someone using a power supply to measure the winding resistance on a bldc motor:
  2. The U1 and U2 component on the driver board are hall-effect-based current sensor. Allegro ACS781 to be exact. When you see the pictures and they look burnt, it’s actually the conformal coating on the board overheating and getting discolored. Without properly testing a failed board, we can’t know for sure what component is prone to failure. A shorted motor can result in overheated board and eventually component failure.
  3. Can you check the drain tab on those two low side drivers? They are STH15810, you can try replacing the failed MOSFETs if they failed.
  4. Glad you’ve completed your fast charger, it really helps on those extended ride 👍👍 Soldering the wires to the connector is challenging but with patience, it can be done. 0.02V difference is within the margin of error when manufacturing stock chargers, nothing to worry about. My other gripe is when I ride the Z10 hard and fast for long period and the battery pack gets hot and the BMS will not allow it to charge. I have to wait until battery pack temperature falls below 70C. Not something I do all the time, but had a few occasions.
  5. Hard to tell from the picture but it looks like the conductors are about the same. It should work without issues, smaller conductors has higher resistance and at higher current will start to heat up.
  6. The One Z doesn’t provide the pitch and roll angle. Not sure if this is a limitation in the controller or the app
  7. What version firmware do you have? I have 1.07 and I was able to calibrate using the app and it keeps the pedal angle
  8. Rotciv


    It’s possible that the windings in the motor overheated and caused a short. The short can also damage the driver board. Can you test the motor if the windings are ok? You will need a milliohm meter or put a known voltage and current in one of the phases and measure the voltage drop. You have to do this to all three phases.
  9. No problem! Not an ee but I’ve designed and developed industrial controllers. Building a charger has crossed my mind but there are so many options out there. I’m in early stages of developing a better charge meter/monitor. Whether that will be completed, time will tell.
  10. You need to put a meter between the wheel and the charger to measure the charging current. A fully charged wheel should not be drawing more than 10mA. Use the charger on a fully charged wheel and adjust the potentiometer until the fan shuts off and you get the green led. I don’t exactly remember which direction you turn the pot, but it’s multi-turn with clutch at the end. You won’t damage it by overturning. I would suggest marking your starting position and counting the turns.
  11. It sets a current threshold for when the charging current falls below the threshold, the charger will turn off the fan and turn on the green led to indicate that the battery is fully charged. It should be set to around 10mA, but the factory setting is acceptable.
  12. When you get the charger, remove the top cover by removing the two top screws on both sides. Remove the two bottom screws on the output side to remove the end plate. You should now have easy access to trim the output voltage. If the potentiometer is covered with silicone, carefully remove to expose the adjustment screw. With the charger turned on but not connected to your wheel, trim the voltage to match the stock charger. I would suggest leaving it on for a few minutes to stabilize the voltage before trimming.
  13. No problem! I’m familiar with the Wate chargers and know how to adjust the current and trim the voltage. I’ll update my post on how to adjust the current and trim the voltage on the 5A Wate charger when I get home.
  14. 7.5A is borderline dangerous, it will need constant monitoring. When charging at that current, I would suggest removing the battery pack and charge it outside in case you get a thermal runaway and the battery pack starts a fire. You don’t want to lose your Z10 to a fire. I’ve been charging at 6A regularly without any issues. At 6A, there is minimal heating on the internal wires. Find a charger that allows you to trim the output voltage. The BMS will cutoff charging when the battery pack goes above 58.7v, probably causing some cells to have less charge than others. My daily charger is the 5A version of this one, adjusted to output 6A and the voltage output trimmed to 58.67v. Order the charger with GX16-3 connector and get the male connector from ElecBee. The display meter I used above is DROK 200139US from Amazon. The meter is useful to monitor the charging voltage and current. It will also show you power and total Wh.
  15. “Riding a bike with no helmet? Seen plenty of crashes and the rider came out unscathed. Motorcycle with no helmet? Pfft! They’re everywhere and never seen someone fall off a motorcycle. That thing you’re riding with one wheel seems very unstable and if you fall off it you will die. So wear your helmet!” I think that’s what goes through most people’s mind and they probably don’t want to be traumatized seeing you spill your brains out.
  • Create New...