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  1. Thought I would share my handle install with the forum in case it is helpful. Bought it on eBay and can be mounted to front or the rear. I chose the rear just for ergonomics/appearance. Works/fits fine with the power port. Makes it also easy to wheel around if powered up, just by applying slight pressure front/back. Basically drives itself, as you'd expect. For the install, you will need to bend the steel plate that goes over the lower part of the wheel, as shown. It comes as a 100% straight piece. With this slight angle at center, it creates a flush fit. To install, you'll need to pre-drill the holes at top and bottom. I do like that this steel plate makes the junction of the two shell pieces stronger when attached. Note also that the top will also require pre-drilling with the same bit to be able to put the screw through it - it is hard plastic and was not fully pre-drilled. It was quick and easy to install. And so far, so good. The looks are certainly cleaner without it, but for function in commuting to/from platforms, very short distances, it is worth the tradeoff - the ACM is a ton of bricks to lug around. Hopefully this is of use if you're considering it.
  2. Thanks for this Jim B. Yes, glad I was wearing helmet and full pads for sure. The moment I get the beeps now I definitely lay off. Not worth it.
  3. Indeed - have made a big "note to self" on that one now!
  4. Thanks for this KingSong69. Makes sense that this is not due to too much heat as you are saying. I believe it was ultimately overlean combined with not paying due attention to the 80% alarm that did it. Thanks for taking the time to reply - much appreciated. J
  5. Good idea. Or perhaps a built-in limiter of some sort that won't allow you to push it past it's breaking point along with the audio feedback to let you know that's what's happening. Even if it has to be conservative and you loose a bit of top end, I would gladly trade that off for taking another spill. IMHO should be a feature -- and maybe allow an override switch for crazy people.
  6. Thanks everyone. I'll take a stab here at each of the questions in the thread - combining them into one single reply to make it easier for everyone to read and follow: Where is your ACM from (dealer)? Is it new or used? It is new. 1.5 weeks old. Bought on eBay from a regular seller of these but I am not sure I'd call them a dealer - maybe, maybe not. But it was new. Version 2. Has the new grippy style pedals on it as well. I've not taken it apart to see if it is indeed the better 12 mosfet version but I would assume so. What version ACM is this, 67V or 84V? It is a 680wh What is your skill level or month(s)/year(s) riding EUCs? I've only been riding for a few weeks (hence my handle EU_Newbie). But picked it up quickly and have been riding every day. This was the first time I've taken it 4mi+ and pushed the wheel this hard. What was the battery levels when you started and crashed? Battery at the start of the ride was 100%. After the crash it is sitting at 90%. BUT, digging deeper into the settings I found that the wheel now thinks it only has 2.4km on it for miles ridden... about the distance back to house after the wreck plus a test run. This might imply a total reset of the system. How hard were you accelerating? Very hard. About as hard as I have ridden it. Was the wheel still powered on when you went to go pick it up post crash? I wish I could recall specifically - was focusing on other things like wounds. If I had to say, it may have still been on -- but the answer to #4 above with the system resetting to zero lifetime km in the app may imply otherwise. Did you hit anything, bump, etc, before you went down? No bumps. Smoothest pavement I've been able to find which was why I had (mistakenly) felt this as a good place to test out giving it the speed. Was there any oscillation / vibration when traveling high speeds before going down? No it really doesn't run smooth now anymore? It actually does feel smooth still. No change to the ride quality that I can tell. it is scratching against the shell now alltime? No. Only at certain points in the rotation (albeit many). How steep of a hill? I will say that 30km/h up a hill (depending on the hill) can consume lots of power. When the wheel has no more power to give, it stops balancing. I myself avoid hard accelerations (or excessive speeds) when going up hill or down hill. About 20 degrees. This is sounding to me like the issue. And this is clearly good / important advice. This quite presumably is no failure of the wheel - just an non advertised intrinsic property of each electronic motor: the higher the load (acceleration, going uphill) and/or the lower the battery voltage (roughly left capacity) the lower the maximum possible speed. Gotway advertices maximum speed for quite low load with full batteries - one has to adopt this downwards depending on load and battery state to still drive safely. Similar to above. I just wish I wasn't such a newbie at this and had known about this. This intrinsic characteristic of electric motors leads to all the questions of the other posters here in this topic - to "reveal" if it was a "normal" behaviour of the wheel (which a new driver normaly does and cannot know anything about - even if one would read the manual...) or really some failure ... Thanks -- helps me feel at least a little bit less like a schmuck for not knowing. If you had good luck its just bend plastics of the cover which rubs - if you had bad luck it is, as already mentioned a "bend" axle or metalic frame part. The second case has to be replaced, for a plastic cover problem some tinkering should be sufficient. Given that it rides smoothly, I plan to try and ticker with the plastic a bit today and see if I can improve it or not. Hoping that's all it is. Hopefully that provides enough context. I'm wondering if it is simply never OK to push it hard, level ground or otherwise? Thanks for all the helpful comments and questions. Any other thoughts are welcomed. J
  7. Yup. My 1.5 week old Gotway ACM just gave out at over 30kph... sending me flying. Had been riding for about 15 mins or about 3-4 miles on pavement and then gave it gas going uphill north of 30kph and then it just died. It went down, then I went down. Thankfully, I was wearing full pads and helmet but am a great deal scraped up. I had some foam padding on the ACM that at least helped protect it a little as well. Two questions, in case anyone knows the answer: 1) Is this failure a common problem with the ACM? If so, what causes it -- as I will not want to go through that again if I can help it. 2) The tire now rubs internally at various spots on the rotation. Guessing parts are bent/stressed from being bounced around. Other than taking it all apart and trying to put it back together again is there any other cure I should consider first? Any advice some any of the much greater riders than me in the forum would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks, J
  8. Thanks meepmeepmayer -- just bought it. Now let's see what actually arrives!
  9. Thanks everyone. Great feedback. Based upon this, I'm ruling out the A1 and C+ and going for something with more speed. So now I believe it's between the Gotway MCM3, MCM4 V3, and ACM. MCM3 seems a great value at $500. **There seem to be a lot of fans for the ACM out there and I have spotted one -- Gotway ACM 680Wh v2 new for $650 which seems like a deal.
  10. Digging further, based upon suggestions I have also recently spotted the Gotway ACM at a decent price point. So adding this to the list of potential ones to consider, along with the others.
  11. Yes. Duly noted litewave.
  12. Thanks guys. So, sounds like speed is a limiting factor of the base Ninebots so perhaps ruling out the A1 and C+. Ideally I don't want to spend more than $600. Based on the feedback, I'm going to look next closer at the Gotway MCM3 ($500 plus shipping on tec-toyz), Ninebot E+ ($650 on ebay) and Gotway MCM4 V3 ($660 on AliExpress).
  13. Thanks guys. Very helpful. I am now checking out the Gotway you referenced. It does look to be a strong candidate.... yes which does make me consider that a different user name may eventually be required I'm open to all recommendations!
  14. Looking for some friendly advice. Soon to pull the trigger on my first EU. I'm considering a Ninebot A1 for $400 or Ninebot C+ for $440. The E+ looks to be hundreds more so ruling that out (if I really use like I hope to for commuting then I can always sell and upgrade later). I'll be riding 2.5 mi each way on city streets and sidewalks --- some bumpy spots but no off-roading. As best I can tell, the specs are nearly identical (12.5mph) and the only real difference is the padding on the sides of the C+. Does anyone have any insights they can share as to which might be the best pick? Thanks!
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