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Matthieu Thegrey

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About Matthieu Thegrey

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  • Location
    Lyon, France
  • EUC
    Gotway MsuperX

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  1. Yeah quite easily on online european motorcyscle shops.
  2. I agree with EMA: 1/ That tire is amazing on it's own. Maybe an answer to the Veteran success imo, among others 2/ I finally switched to a more conventional H666 on my MSX, where you can't be superman that much, but that spares me battery quite significantly && içs less tiring for long trips. You want power man wheel for very agressive riding on any ground? grab the C-186. You want an mix between practicability / endurance / easy-to-ride-work-home-wheel in a big city => pick the H666.
  3. @Micheal Shen do you know if there is a solution for KS18L stuck to 1.12 Firmware? A lot of us can't do the upgrade from 1.12 to 1.13. I own two 18L, only the most recent could not be upgraded?! The app simply states that it's the last version.
  4. What i can see for that GW/KS ups and cons from the few past years... KS came to wheels later and not with the same "codes" as GW guys. I hear the story that they came from motherboards of money distributors. Huge reliability and complexity needed. They made wonderful wheels. KS14D or KS16B-S were excellent: compact, waterresistant, tough (except for axis on 16B that were stille borderline), LIGHT, and so convenient with trolley/reversible lights. Perfect urban wheels so far... KS has made mistakes like GW, but they didn't stop correcting those. Of course there are new ones. Ok, for 18L there were annoying non-finition issues, but nothing critical (trolley, mudguard, overheating light...). KS was not top performance wheel (due to complex process time) but was close top it, while bringing a lot of qualities. And now for 16X, I must say I am very surprised of thos huge design mistakes KS has made, at leat about water/dust proofing. They had an excellent design with previous models. But still I see that they learned from the past with everything else. That wheel still is lovely, many little flaws deleted (magnetic pedals, trolley cut sensor is perfect). I must add that KS has invested a lot of money in building modern chain factory. The assembling process is more complex, more refined, more effective, less source of mistake. GW had many flaws these past years. Burning wires, the huge cutout bug with a generation of MS3, less waterproofing, less refined design, less effective handles and lights. They have never invested money in modern process, they quite build on demand. So less complex process, more prone tu human mistakes. Bigger garage than RockWheel, but still not modern stuff. But they have the experience, and i think the test and retry way of doing. And they use top notch components ( just compare KS18L and MSX connectors/wires/whatever...). And GW's performances have always stood at the top. And that strategy to quickly and frequently release a new wheel has provec to serve their business model. I think both have pros and cons, and have been surprised of how GW has successed to maintain his reputation despite it's rustic process. And I must admit my favorite wheel (I have 6) must be my MSX. But I love my 18L... But I love my MCM5... But I love my RW, ...
  5. Be careful with that. I know a guy who has burned his motherboard by charging his phone. Apparently it drawed too much current. Could happen with usb light as it takes quite a lot of juice.
  6. I say huge thanks to @mrelwood for sharing that information. I would say for me that it even improved the nimbleness of the wheel at low speeds versus the original MSX tyre. And incredibly reassuring at high speed or in offroad. I could have lost a bit of range, but maybe just because i'm pushing the beast a bit more than before ?! And just been afraid while going over a kind of metal grid on the ground, where the tits liked to go in the holes and align suddenly But this wheel guys now... it's the ultimate wheel !
  7. You're right it doesn't changes the limit of the wheel. But it changes the control you have in this. Yes you can brake or accelerate very hard straight. But never as precisely. And if you hit a bump or a hole at this moment, you are more prone to lose balance as : 1/ youre are not grounded but extended to put max leverage force. 2/ You are already on an unstable stance. Try to take a friend and make sumo like (you push him he has to resist). He HAS to crouch to have better resistance. It's the same for a bump/hole whatever...
  8. No i fact, it's quite the opposite you're much more stable. It needs training but you can really apply huge power / huge control / huge stability, much much better than anything you could do straight in my experience. this is abut braking this way, but you can do the same for acceleration:
  9. There is still a way to accelerate/decelerate as strong as you will dare: just lower your gravity center by really folding your knees. No need to modify the wheel, and much better control / fine tuning and in the case of a bump / hole, you're very anchored to the wheel. Never tried kuji pads but I can feel it probably would obstruct me if i want to go really low?!
  10. Yeah don't buy Nikola 650 wh (is it even real?!). Should be 30% battery (so end of the trip) in less than 25kms ?!
  11. They are VERY different wheels: The v10 has a lot of urban qualities. Despite the fact that i think i t is too heavy for a perfect urban wheel, it's motor cut when lifted and global thiness while keeping very comfortable (huge pedals, huge tire, thin wheel) must be it's main forces. But it hasn't shined for it's realiability as much as the V8 did. (some pedals still break...) The Nikola, on the other hand, is much more rustic. The trolley handle is bad. The quality of the manufacturing is GW like, very simple, rustic, not so convenient. The wheel is LARGE ! Sure a viril stance! But the components are top notch, it's a very capable wheel, MUCH more powerful, capacitive, and stable than a V10. If you ride close to cars, it's much more reassuring. What do you want from your wheel? Do you plan to ride a few kms in the city? Do you want to road trip? You should consider the 18L/XL too for it's excellent versatility (very good trolley handle, best light, good commuter, excellent range) and now being mature. My 2 cents
  12. The biggest the wheel, the more "body" you will have to put effort in to really make the wheel react. The best way to put force by gaining maximum control and stability is to lower gravity center. Learning how to ride backwards usually helps better braking by allowing the brain to get used to "sit" on the back of your wheel to brake efficiently. Takes a bit of time to get habit, but then most people don't get back on tinier wheels (except when weight does matters...). I personally LOVE the GW soft mode (despite i'm driving my KS's and my GW MCM5 in hard mode) , and the wider the wheel, the most it's true for me. About feet, i tend to use a duck stance on my non-primary foot, but the front of the foot to the outside. And my main foot closer to the normal, handling most of the direction. But i've had problems (bad reeducation after knee injury) and i must not be a reference.
  13. @Peter Le Lievre can you just explain (for science ) WHY you are looking for this?! Does it provides a special kind of feeling or anything?
  14. You guys in the US are really lucky to have @Jason McNeil. In Europe the resellers are so roguish. I think he deserves much respect, because he is dealing with the same guys that our ressellers do, and it must not be a piece of cake. I am even tempted to get my next wheels to him, just because of all the stories i saw here, despite i'm living in France...
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