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About alfu

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    Gainesville, FL

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  1. I would never put 4 ounces of any substance, Slime or otherwise, inside a small high-speed tire, for fear of unbalancing it (and causing it to oscillate).
  2. Absolutely. Battery fraud is rampant! I ordered an LED bike headlight from Amazon that had a 4P 18650 Li-ion battery. 2 of the cells were blanks, hollow steel tubes shrinkwrapped to look like cells. Chinese (or other) replacement laptop batteries often have blanks in them (see attached photo). Youtube has images of the products of a Chinese cottage industry: 18650 cells with smaller cells wired inside them. (Don't get me wrong, the Chinese make some very inexpensive excellent leading edge products, and I own a bunch of them!) Please do share the results of your $35 order with us!
  3. I updated the graphic above to include cal procedure. I discovered it by turning it on after doing some final mounting and connecting of the controller. It was grossly tilted, and it had been level on first startup! So I must have inadvertently calibrated it previously. Put it back on the level stand and tried again, and presto-changeo, it was calibrated.
  4. I doubt it. The power switch on this wheel is a toggling push-ON push-OFF switch. The battery power (+64V) is mechanically supplied through the switch to the controller logic. At any rate, the conversion is now a success. I will be happy to answer anyone's questions who wants to do a similar conversion.
  5. I soldered a 330 ohm resistor into my shorting jumper to reduce risk, but still allow a logic '0'. However, JN8 places a 10K resistor in series with the CPU pin, so no harm likely there.
  6. All the CPU pins I mapped out in reverse-engineering the controller were different from the old board, and different from any on-line documentation I have been able to scrounge, but sure, I'll give that a whack, and get back to you on that.
  7. Thank you! That's the sequence, exactly. Placing the shorting jumper on the T to GND header results in no change from standard power up. Placing the header on JN8 with the same protocol results in a sustained pulsed beep and flash of the POWER ON LED that apparently indicates an error and does not stop until shutdown. Removing the jumper during the beeping results in no change. BTW, I have not yet updated the controller image, but I think JN4 is for communicating with the CPU via I2C.
  8. Marty's video shows the controller traction wires to be 14AWG. A larger wire, 12AWG, is rated at 15A for residential construction. The motor traction wires are even narrower guage, probably around 16AWG. It is inexcusable for a premium model EUC to have the same gauge traction wires as an entry-level 14" Step & Roll or Airwheel. As far as I can tell from Marty's video, his failure was due to these smaller wires fusing together from getting overheated. Heavier traction wires (they should be 10AWG, finely stranded, like litz wire, for flexibility, with silicone insulation) and larger diameter axle tubes would not materially increase the cost of an EUC, especially a premium model. Also, the connectors from the controller to the motor should be at least the grade of an XT-60, not those crappy things that are used for trailer tail-lights. Gotway should be ashamed of themselves! (Although King Song probably uses the same wiring gauges and connectors ...)
  9. I had already thought of that, of course. Shorting it (with the wheel on the calibration stand) results in the same behavior as it open: the wheel responds to tilt and starts pulsing the beeper if tilted too much. BTW, try as I might, I could not find anything on the board that 'T' connected to. It seems to be floating. Confirming anything with either the seller of this replacement board, or the original vendor of the wheel, is as you might expect, useless. I've tried; it's like talking to a wall.
  10. Replaced the original controller with the JA 4008046080. It seems to have restored functionality. The wheel rides fine.
  11. Um, why not just get an MP3 file of a card on a bike wheel, put it on your cell phone, then loop it via Bluetooth, coming out the wheel's speakers? That way you could broadcast all sorts of sick sounds.
  12. What is the difference between the KS 14B and 14C? I notice eWheels no longer carries the 14C.
  13. Yes, thank you for that resource, including the KiCAD source libraries. It looks like I may be having to do a reverse-engineer of this board as well. The short-to-GND calibration jumper looks like it also is a comm port to set various attributes of the board. To get mine working again I will have to find out what the reset-to-factory-defaults protocol is to get it out of its locked-up state. I'm trying the vendor first (http://kidsatvparts.com/clearance.html 713 588-1681), after that, not sure where to turn.
  14. Here is an image of the controller board from my generic electrically locked up Step-n-Roll, with wire color codes, for reference. If anyone has information on the undocumented connector lands, I will be happy to update the image and re-post.
  15. Wow, this project really screams for someone to attack the problem with a 3-D printed solution using polycarbonate filament! Anyone up for the challenge?
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