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About MichaelSF

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    San Francisco
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    Flying, motorcycles, electronics, travel, politics, news junkie.
  1. MichaelSF

    To replace battery or buy a new unit...

    I have yet to purchase a first EUC, but I have owned a LOT of electronics. I usually buy used (don't want to suffer depreciation) and always buy what I want when I want. If it were me, I would NOT get a battery for the old NineBot, mainly because it is outdated, and as you note, a new machine with updated tech and features is not that much more. Given the option I will always buy the latest and greatest rather than renew or repair my old tech. From the financial side the course of action I would take on the numbers. - Buy a new machine, the one you want. - Sell the old Ninebot, with full disclosure about the battery getting tired, but at a severe discount to someone looking to get into a first machine, for example. If you get $200 for it, that's $200 applied toward the new better more functional machine. - Also keep in mind that generally you never get the money back that you put into repairs, upgrades, or maintenance (I consider a new battery a maint. item, not a repair). In other words, if you listed the NineBot for sale at some point and said "New battery 200 miles ago," people won't care, they still want the EUC at a good price. Paid $270 for a battery, that's your problem, they think. - Have to take into account that although getting a new battery, the unit is getting old (and worn out). I would not install a new battery on a EUC getting older by the day. This may matter to some prospective buyers who will ask "When did you get this?" When you say "three years ago," for example, many buyers will move on because that sounds like a really old machine. And if you reveal it has 1,000 miles on it, to most that sounds like it needs a proper burial, not a new battery. Bonus Tip: Where you can make LOTS of money, don't sell the entire unit. Disassemble it down to the last bolt. Then list individual parts on eBay. Since this is the Ninebot and the company seems to be dropping support, that may make parts all the more valuable. I can assure you that you will get double to quadruple the money realized on a sale of the entire unit. - Buy the new unit, enjoy it, and take your time selling the Ninebot parts on eBay or the Forums.
  2. MichaelSF

    Shipping Tips?

    Although a dated post I have some timeless shipping tips (experience gained by being on eBay since 1998). A few times over the years I have sold large vintage electronics on eBay and had to ship them (usually NYC). Some tips: - Use a very large box for shipping. The bigger the box the more padding you can use. - Make sure to use padding on all sides. Since this is more a pancake shape, your packing will be more like a clam shell. - Use two plastic trash bags. Put the naked EUC into one bag. Seal that bag tight. Use the other bag to enclose the EUC and packing. The reason for this is to protect the machine from water, rain, or even cigarette smoker damage. Considering the value I would use three to four bags. - Using your cell (mobile) take many pics of the sold EUC (including with it on and a video of you riding it), the packing material, and the EUC all packed up. If you have a current newspaper take pics with it in the background. (Yeah, just like proof of life when paying ransom). This is to support an insurance claim. Tip: If you have an original receipt or proof of purchase, all the better, but that's not necessary to make a claim. - Take a pic of the box sealed with tape and the address label. - When insuring do NOT insure for the selling price, in a way "over insure" so you can get your money and expenses back. I insure for what it would cost me to replace the item damaged or lost. - Before shipping check your shipping company's web page on making an insurance claim. See what they require in terms of proof so you have everything ready in the event you need to make a claim. (Of course save your shipping receipt, copy of the mailing label, and your pics. Keep all this in one spot in your house. Do this out of habit so you don't have to spend hours looking for the stuff later.) - Mark on all sides with felt pen or labels "FRAGILE." You can also mark "this end up." Sometimes I apply stickers that say "THIS END UP." - You can use your computer and MS Word to make your own labels. Apply to the box with clear tape. - I like to send the buyer copies of my pics showing the item carefully packed. This is helpful in deterring a buyer from claiming false damage so he can work you for a discount. If he thinks you have your sh*t together he won't try to pull something. - Like others suggested, visit your local electronics store, or even someone who sells appliances. If asked nicely they will let you pull out from recycle all kinds of quality packing foam. - Do NOT ever ever ever NEVER use those packing peanuts (aka "popcorn") That stuff is useless to perform a quality packing job. - Tape on the bag containing the EUC a sign that says "DO NOT USE BLADED DEVICE TO OPEN" - again, you don't want them slashing the tire or case, blaming you, then asking for a discount. - Repeat: The bigger the box the better. Don't try to get a box where you are trying to shape it to the EUC. A large rectangle box works well. - I don't know about your area, but here in San Francisco, California UPS has the best rates for shipping large packages. Our USPS has the highest rates. - Of course, be careful of scammers. Make sure you have cash in hand, or wait until you have cash in hand, before even thinking about shipping something. Scammers are everywhere so be careful. end
  3. MichaelSF

    Msuper3, wheel for a starter?

    Very informative, especially that part, which is the conclusion I reached after spending too much time on YouTube. (Albeit I do confess I am a subscriber to that guy with the (purported) Russian accent who fires all kinds of weaponry.)
  4. MichaelSF

    Msuper3, wheel for a starter?

    ____________________ I think of these EUC the same way as motorcycles I have owned; my personal general rule has been to never buy a bike that in my mind would be too much to handle. A good example was when the Ducati 1098 came out. While I loved that bike, there was a lot of guys (typically going through a midlife crisis) who had the coin to buy it so they did. Most of them had some sport bike experience, but not any hours with a race or super bike. They ended up selling those bikes for dirt cheap on the used market, or they collected dust in the garage. (By the way, the 1098's numbers are: 0-60 mph in LESS 3.0 seconds; 1/4 mile 10.015 - 144 mph (231.65 km/h) & max speed 173 mph). While one certainly could have bought the 1098 under the assumption that he simply would choose not to go so fast, and granny shift at green lights, the trouble was that a bike so powerful was NOT so easy to control. For example, when merging on to the freeway it is very easy to give the bike too much throttle, end up pulling a wheelie, and lose control to where the rider ends up severely injured or dead. Anyway, these EUCs do not have anything to protect the rider (when I crashed at 70 mph, a car hit me, I was able to hug the bike and slide down the freeway. The bike was protecting me until I slowed to a halt). Yes, I can wear gear, but limbs, ribs, bones, and skin are mostly exposed in a crash. Because of this I look at a 25 mph crash on a EUC equivalent to crashing at 50++ mph on a motorcycle. Another analogy, these things are like earthquakes (living in San Francisco I know a lot about quakes). Most people don't know that 1 point on the Richter Scale means the quake is 10 X more powerful than the quake at the point below. San Francisco has survived 6.+ quakes. A 7.0 quake would cause massive destruction. A 9.0 to 10.0 quake would result in tectonic destruction, meaning the end of life in California. It seems to me (I could be totally wrong) that each MPH one goes above 18, 19, 20 would equal the way more serious the injury in a crash. An accident between 25-30 mph, that's a death wish. I have to wonder why manufacturers limit the speeds of the EUCs they produce. I suspect that's installing a "governor" of sorts because the companies do not want to be liable for people losing control at high speeds. To be sure, if a newbie underestimates the speed he is traveling and ends up crashing at 25 mph, he's going to sue the manufacturer and seller for making a machine that goes so fast. Finally, I suspect a EUC maxing out at 25 mph, for example, can give riders a false sense of safety, i.e., how bad can I be hurt in a 25 mph crash. These people forget about the many famous people who have been killed on the ski slopes because they lost control and hit rocks or trees. They were going far slower than the max speed of these machines. Anyway, like I said before, I don't trust myself because I know nothing about the EUC riding experience. So until I know what is what I will opt for a slower unit. Over and out.
  5. MichaelSF

    Msuper3, wheel for a starter?

    Hi guys, new member here, and also new to a EUC. I am a private pilot who used own a small plane (C 172) and also super bike rider (Ducati 998, R1). Despite these endeavors, I'm being very careful about getting a EUC. Seems to me that it is very easy to get in an accident at 15 MPH and end up injured or dead. For this reason I have no problem getting a slow EUC (max speed 15 MPH, for example). The way I figure, when I'm ready to upgrade I can sell the old machine and get at least half my money back. So if I spend $700 for a first machine, actual cost might be $350 to $400. I don't mind spending $400 for the five to ten hours it takes me to become confident on a machine. For me it is not necessary to buy a machine that I will want when I become proficient. (I have read some posts on the Net where the person advised getting a machine that's a "keeper" once getting past the learning stage. This is pretty much like riding super bikes. Someone learning to ride motorcycles should not start off with a Yamaha R1. Matter of fact, I bought my R1 at a super low price from a guy that bought it off the showroom floor. He rode it a few miles, was scared to death, and he parked it and put it up for sale on Craig's List at a huge loss to him. I rode that bike home with a huge grin because I saved about $2,000 from what I would have had to pay. Anyway, from all your excellent comments it seems a safe, fun, and OK machine is the NineBot E+ or perhaps an older Gotway? I appreciated those who mentioned safety and noted that going 20+ MPH is suicide for a beginner. That's what I gathered in my travels around the Net. To be sure, from riding super bikes at 150 MPH with full gear (and where I know what I'm doing) would be suicidal to for a beginner to be doing that. Going 25 MPH on a little spinning wheel is, IMO, akin to riding the R1 to 150 MPH when the rider does not know squat about how to do that. I have watched those YouTube videos where people are traveling at 25 to 30 MPH, I picture them hitting a car or tree at that speed. Seems to me the rider is going to be permanently disabled or dead. Roundabout way of saying I'm fine with putt putting at 12 to 15 MPH. Thanks for all the great tips in here.