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Rob Valley

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About Rob Valley

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  1. Rob Valley

    V10 is safe from fire

    http://www.dsmt.com/resources/ip-rating-chart/
  2. but you will have to ride with all circus light on if you want this
  3. Rob Valley

    THE HELMET THREAD

    Thanks, and good luck to you, with your quest to feel good about your self while people look at you
  4. Rob Valley

    THE HELMET THREAD

    i was not trying to be correct, i was trying to explain to you why you feel a big helmet is to big for your adventures.
  5. Rob Valley

    THE HELMET THREAD

    yes this is true, but for a brief second, you are sharing the mass
  6. Rob Valley

    THE HELMET THREAD

    you should also apply newtons second law of motion to better understand why, and after that you understand how that determines the protective standard of the helmet. basically the more mass you are moving around will co-relate to the impact you have to take, just think about it.
  7. Rob Valley

    THE HELMET THREAD

    E equals M at C squared is applied to the helmet design, hence the heavier the ride the more protection applied to helmet, and since the EUC is close to weight of the BMX a BMX helmet would be logical. I am looking at the Ruroc series, looks sweet, lightweight, and comfortable, i have concluded this is the optimal since EUC Riding is like Skiing on pavement
  8. Rob Valley

    THE HELMET THREAD

    it looks pretty normal for motocross, how much does it weight? i would stay in the 500grams category when it comes to EUC helmets
  9. Actually it accepts the word WHOA just fine i was talking about the word "Caffeinated" . @US69 Sounds good, and also you should know, i do really think you have started a good movement in the world of EUC by becoming a social media spokesperson, this is truly, what we and KS, needed. Peace.
  10. Thats funny because i really enjoy caffeinated (WHOA the spell check does not recognize that word) coffee and i drink too much everyday. @US69 yes i did understand from the start that you where exaggerating just to prove a point, i just asked because to me, fixing this with a reboot, and after the wheel is (as far as i understand) working normally, makes my skepticism grow a little bit, i am not accusing anybody of telling white lies, i just want some things to make sense. And i think we have established that all wheels can cut out at any given point of time, explaining the reason behind this specific failure clearly, ie. open communication, one could narrow down the root cause of face plant while on the ground picking up ones teeth.
  11. oh Ulf, I am always amazed that i have to read your comments, at least 3 times before i understand your rhetorical sentences. have you ever heard of the saying "talk to them like they dumb and they become dumb?" i would avoid this as a media rep. also my priority would be to get rid of all the spelling mistakes marked red, this will improve your language skills allot over time. oh and the excessive use of exclamation marks really annoys me, but thats just me I am not even old but still grumpy. That being said, if i understand you correctly, the issue is not anymore linked to a oscillator coming loose?
  12. ok i dont have time right now to go into too much details, but ill give you a quick break-down... and you should make sure you have replacement for the rivets you have to brake, i used two M3x35mm(or something similiar) bolts with locking nuts (you have to make sure the can fit back in, and they only go one way) So you remove the grey hande poles -> take of the handle from the top, remove the straps, take out the poles, remove the sensors. The when you are done you have to brake the rivet in the bottom, and take the pin out, afterwards you can slide the smaller poles out from the bottom (also press in the locking pins) You will find 2 locking/spring mechanism in each set of poles, one of yours in the failing handle, you can probably see it is not in position. i had a look att all of them while i was at it, just to be sure. I Added crazy glue to each one in the bottom of the part before putting it back in, and also where the white plastic sleeve is doing some "securing", so that the module does not come loose. and i dont know but crazy glue might not hold indefinetly, i was thinking of glue that could be more elastic(epoxy) but i didnt have it around at the time.
  13. i had the same problem, i ended up taking the trolley apart, found that one of the locking mechanism had come of, and fixed it with crazy glue. at the same time i also found 1 wire that was damaged badly between the shell when it had been assembled in facory(presumably) the connection was still good though but somebody in assembly has been picking their nose ( its thin red wire going to the motor, so im guessing its the temperature) and also i found that on one of the trolley sensor, the glue for the screw was about to brake, so i made sure it wouldnt, still need to check up on that ofcourse. i was almost about to ship the wheel back on these 2 manufacturing defects, but you DIY guys know why i didnt. i had so much faith in KS quality, that i took the wheel from a distant supplier, so sending it back is more trouble than the fixes are, but next time i definetely make sure i can easily ship it back.
  14. I Dont know if iv missed some information, but looking at the situation right now, i think it would be time again to ask @US69 if there is any news regarding the topic? Yes yes i know you will tell us as soon as you know, but given the situation right now, i think im entitled to ask. So either; 1. KS is fixing a bad solder with software, which would be absolutely amazing. 2. it was not the root cause to the problem to begin with maby third option, they disable the use of the chrystal, but either way. some more info would be nice.
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