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tudordewolf

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About tudordewolf

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  • Location
    DC
  • EUC
    Msuper 3S+ "T"

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  1. I think those make good learners, but the low wattage (350W), small battery (130wH, 16s1p - that's only ONE row of 18650's) and rough "feel" of the pedals compared to nicer models leads me to treat mine as strictly as a "beater" model. To that end, it has survived multiple people's learning process and continues to chug along.
  2. I would sell it for $100 + shipping, but it's in rough shape. The plastic handle on the case is broken, the control board is probably fried... the batteries take and hold a full charge though, and the motor is probably fine. This is a 67.2 volt v2, msuper, the boxy one from a few years ago, with around 2000 miles on it. Honestly it's in such rough shape that it might not be worth shipping.
  3. I have a 14c with maybe good batteries (2x 340Wh were new when I got it / put them in), maybe a good board, and even an extra board that came with it that's supposedly new. It boots up but doesn't run right, needs "work", I've got a couple I'm "working" on so I'd part with it if you could use it.
  4. I have a couple that I was imagining I'd fix up, but they're just sitting if you think you could do better I'd be happy to send them along for cheap + shipping cost. Only problem is I'm in Washington DC, maybe someone closer would want them or parts? I've got: an 850Wh MsuperV2 - got over 3000km on it, locked up one day, feels like two motor wires are shorted. Won't boot, board probably fried a 680Wh Kingsong 14C - boots but runs "funny," and doesn't charge; would not recommend riding in its current state a 200Wh Luffy - does not boot, wheel turns freely. a 260Wh "fastwheel" (defunct brand, unusual 12" size!) - boots, does not turn wheel. When they died all their batteries were good; don't know if any have had cells go bad in storage. I've tried to keep them topped up but some don't take a charge, like the kingsong.
  5. Not the guy who ordered one, but green fashion shop, whom I bought my msuper from, has this listing for 2.6k, for the 100v 1845wh wheel. It would be fun to own but I think any wheel over 30lbs or so should have an integrated walking handle by default; it's just a reality of using one as a daily commuter that you will need to treat it like a suitcase sometimes and carrying a monster isn't an option, (thanks for the wheel-pickup cutoff switch though, probably necessary to keep it from maiming someone accidentally with a 3KW motor)
  6. As far as I can tell, the unicycle chargers aren't "smart" and doing a CC/CV charge, but just current-limited DC supplies which produce the same effect since its running at limit for the first 90%, and above 90% the voltage difference is so small that the current flow begins decreasing. I've messed around with using 2 chargers in parallel, and there's no "communication" period when you plug them in to determine the battery state, you can connect and disconnect them arbitrarily and see the current flow respond organically, (like, it'll increase even if it's dropped to just 0.5A on one charger, if you plug in the second it'll jump to 0.75) as if they're just plain DC supplies. Therefore, most current-limited DC-output circuits will perform a CV/CC charge just as an emergent property of how the circuitry works.
  7. I'm really excited to see this happening, I've got a graveyard of wheels with good motors and batteries but blown circuit boards that are hard to find or replace, or would benefit from better algorithms than they came with... I'd be more than happy to chip in with testing or protoyping or even putting up some money for PCB's. I've got a Gotway Luffy, Kingsong 16C, and Msuperv2 that could all use new / better brains.
  8. In my opinion, you can't be sure unless it's new. (and even new wheels occasionally have defects) My reasoning is that these things lead such a rough life. Any time you fall, or even just have to "bail" and land on your feet, they tumble and bounce and it's kind of incredible how durable they are given how much abuse they can take and keep on rolling. Even a wheel with no visible case damage might have loosened / rusted out axle shims, or be only a few hard starts and stops away from burning through the motor wire insulation. Though i've had some solid experiences on this forum, (thanks houseofjob!) buying and selling used wheels is awkward just because I think they lose resale value so quickly that they're probably still worth more to the original owner - unless they're selling it for 50% or more off the original price, the peace of mind / warranty support on a brand new wheel is worth more than a 10-20% savings in cost.
  9. I was really excited about the s5 and I'm a bit skeptical... It's kinda wide; part of what I love about the i5 is how it's barely wider than its 1.5" tire. And if it's a dual stator design built into the shell in the style of the i5, then both sides are exposed instead of just one like on the i5. Also I don't like the lights. It's yet another step away from the subtle sleekness that made the i5 unique, it looks like an early-generation ninebot. I have a 200wh luffy and a 240wh i5, and I'd say they're in very similar "classes" in terms of range, hill-climb, top speed, and ease-of-carrying. The s5 should therefore compete with the mten3, and offer the same dramatically thin profile; otherwise it's a low-range, low-speed "mid-sized" unicycle in the age of the ACM2 and Kingsong S-series, with presumably exposed stators on both sides, and doesn't even capitalize on the thin profile that compromise enables.
  10. Looks like the S5 is coming? The IPS website has a picture and page for it, albeit very incomplete: https://ipselectricunicycle.com/s5/
  11. You could rig up a step-down converter to run off of the charging port - 67v to 12v. Drawing 1 amp off the charging port, it'd provide about 5 amps at 12V, enough to jump start a car after 5 minutes of charging the lead-acid battery. I got a converter rated for those voltages and 10 amps off aliexpress for about $15, about the size of a pack of cigarettes. You'd probably also want a $5 DC Volts and Amps display to use inline with the charger. Edit: I've thought about it a bit more. The output voltage on the converter is adjustable, so you'd set it just above the "dead" battery's voltage and adjust it to get the right current draw. Considering you can safely charge unmodified unicycles with up to 5A, you're probably fine drawing 2A off the port for 10 amps at 12 volts.
  12. I'm in the united states; looks like I could ship to portugal for $25. I'd be happy with $20 for it, so, $45 total, but you can probably find it closer for less.
  13. What voltage? I've got a standard 67v kingsong charger I'd sell.
  14. An 18 x 2.125 (as opposed to the default 2.5) would sit lower on the rim, definitely. That wheel recently froze up (After 2500+ miles though!), it could become a project wheel for that.
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