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meepmeepmayer last won the day on January 11

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About meepmeepmayer

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  1. meepmeepmayer

    Tesla tummy rumbles

    Everything is fine That tummy rumbling/buzzing sound is completely normal, this is electrical arcing in the motor. You might even hear it change pitch if you switch the headlight on/off. The whine is normal, too, though the newer Gotway wheels no longer have it. This has to do with the frequency of the PWM (pulse width modulation) controlling the motor and whether it is audible, as far as I know. They changed it for the newer wheels, now it only annoys dogs and Kingsong owners You'll quickly forget it exists unless you're listening for it. The clicky sound - maybe better described as grinding or grating (like pulling something over a washboard), like there's sand or other obstacles somewhere in there - is also completely normal. It shows at very low speed and when changing direction. That's a consequence of the discrete nature of the magnets in the motor. If you rotate the tire very slowly (lay the wheel on its side while it is off), you can "feel" the magnets and the tire jumping into places. At low speeds, that's what produces the grinding, because the motor can't rotate perfectly smooth, just in small discrete steps, which shows at very low speed. You're not the first to ask or wonder about this (so did I and many others), but everything is good. If you really want, make a video, but this is unnecessary. Enjoy your wheel!
  2. meepmeepmayer

    Wheel sensor calibration...

    It's an advantage. If the wheel is tilted sideways too much, you get a bad calibration that will produce pedal dipping in curves. Doesn't have to be exactly 0°, eyeballing it works perfectly fine, it just has to be close enough to vertical.
  3. meepmeepmayer

    Charge Doctor gone away?

    I don't store my wheel at 100%. Most of the time it sits at 90% (83V cutoff on my charge doctor) and I just plug the charger in overnight for potential riding days. But your experience shows batteries are much more robust than people think.
  4. meepmeepmayer

    Charge Doctor gone away?

    European link to a fast charger with some cut-off functionality like the charge doctor: https://eunicycles.eu/en/chargers/83-smart-charger-300w-gotway-84v.html
  5. meepmeepmayer

    Charge Doctor gone away?

    Why would that be? The battery management system will stop any overcharging, even if the charger somehow fails to do it. I've been charging my batteries to 100% with the standard Gotway charger to get every last km of range for the last 6000km
  6. meepmeepmayer

    My KS18XL Trials, Tribulations, and Failures

    Awesome, thanks. I'm surprised the difference is so big just due to the environmental temperature. It looks like the 18XL just has bad heat dissipation in comparison, your first video wasn't an outlier Can't wait for your Nikola and 16X videos and overheating test! This is where it gets interesting for me Especially how torque-y they feel compared to the 18 inchers, and whether the Nikola tire is 16 or 17 inches. Have you ever considered testing wheels on the hill your ACM fried? That would be the ultimate comparison.
  7. meepmeepmayer

    EUC Generations

    It's tubeless now? What kind of tire is needed for that? Whether the updated Tesla belongs to the 3rd or 4th gen can be decided by what board it uses. Old Tesla board -> still 3rd gen. Much better MSX style board or even Nikola style board -> definitely 4th gen. Though maybe the 3rd gen should be split in a good (3.2) and less good part (3.1). Tesla and the Kingsong S models are above the others.
  8. meepmeepmayer

    Noobie question about my V8 and pedal tilt.

    Pedal dipping in turns is unintended (the pedals should always be level), but common. You can get rid of it by doing a good calibration. That means: Make sure the wheel is not tilted sideways (left-right) during the entire calibration. Keep the wheel absolutely still during the entire calibration. Don't hold it in your hand, lean it against something hard. With a bit of luck, you can get rid of the dipping. Some more detailed info about the entire dipping thing is in my replies in this thread:
  9. meepmeepmayer

    EUC tire management

    The first disassembly is always the hardest and most nerve wracking. It's not fun having a wheel lying around in pieces and the uncertainty. But you'll get through it and the next time it will be a breeze, you just learned all the traps Just do everything slooooooowly and carefully and keep calm (easier said than done).
  10. meepmeepmayer

    Going from a 14in to 18in wheel, suggestions?

    Yep. A wheel moves when it tilts. For a bigger tire diameter, you'd simply need more power input to get a wheel that behaves like a smaller tire (= has more torque). It would simply have to react more sensitively to input, so essentially a harder ride mode. A bigger radius does not require more weight displacement in itself. But maybe the same weight displacement leads to a smaller pedal tilt for some geometric reason. Could be that the pedals have to travel further as they are not on axle height, but below, so they trace part of a circle which gets bigger the further the pedals are away from the axle (like on the usual bigger tire wheels). Maybe that makes a difference? The wheel could still compensate that by having a harder ride mode which means only a smaller part of the circle is traced.
  11. meepmeepmayer

    Can everyone learn to ride an EUC?

    If you can ride a bike, you can ride a EUC. The rest is overwhelmingly psychological. Some people are just easily scared or give up under resistance or whatever. Don't be scared (enough protective gear to make you calm and happy is a big part of this) and don't be afraid of speed, speed is your friend, it stabilizes you. Just enjoy the process! A short 20 minute session every other day is easily enough, add more as you like, but don't stress yourself.
  12. meepmeepmayer

    Going from a 14in to 18in wheel, suggestions?

    Yes, exactly. There's no reason to believe that the 2000W motor and the 6p 120 cell battery of the 18XL are weaker than the 2000W motor and the 6p 120 cell battery of the MSX for some mysterious reason. One thing to mention, actually in Gotway's favor in some way, is that Gotway batteries are considered empty at 3.3V of cell voltage, whereas the 18XL is empty at 3.0V. Or in other words, when the 18XL is (very roughly!) at "25% battery", the Gotway wheel will consider itself at 0% battery (same charge state of the battery!). Of course Gotway wheels can offer less reductions at the lower end if the lower end is really much higher than on the 18XL. That's why the 18XL also seems to get a higher range, they simply let you drain the batteries more and need to be more careful then. As far as the top-end, 50kph speed limit of the 18XL is concerned, Kingsong just seems to be more cautious or simply limit themselves to a nice round number. The 100% full batteries of the 18XL and MSX are the same (4.2V per cell), and the 84V MSX starts the 3rd alarm at 58kph which reduces with battery charge. So an 18XL should also be able to do 58kph at full battery. So you got some extra margin up there.
  13. meepmeepmayer

    New Inmotion V10 / V10F

    I always figured wheels should have protective brushes to prevent bigger stuff from getting in and potentially blocking the wheel well. They'd also scrape mud from the tire if it's to much. Basically just a very stiff brush 2 millimeters off the tire where the tire enters/exits the wheel well.
  14. meepmeepmayer

    Going from a 14in to 18in wheel, suggestions?

    (Offtopic) Sorry that graph stuff was by @Chriull, not me But torque (extra, available, free torque) just seems to drop linearly to zero as speed increases. Nothing complicated there. As far as I can tell (might be completely BS), it's like this: The more windings (= number of magnets, naturally there's one magnet in the rotor for each winding in the stator) you have, the more torque and less top speed (= zero torque speed) you get for a given wheel diameter. Moving the magnets out towards the rim does effectively give more windings (same size magnets assumed), so more torque. But you could as well just NOT move the magnets outward, but use more windings with more (= now smaller) magnets. Same effect. So in the end, moving the magnets out is NO magical solution to building better EUC motors. You'd either have more magnets (less top speed, more torque) or the same number of (now bigger) magnets (same top speed, same torque). It might be better for cooling to have the motor as big as possible, though, but that is an unrelated issue. A wheel is a black box where you put some given amount of power in and it rotates the tire for you against a given resistance. The problem of a bigger tire diameter is simply that it needs more torque to rotate it, which gives you less available extra torque which you feel as "torque" during riding. The only thing that counts here is the distance between the axis of rotation and the outer edge of the tire. How the motor is built in between doesn't matter. That problem doesn't go away by building the motor in one or the other specific way, it's always the same regardless of motor build, so it can't be solved by motor build, it's a physics problem. You always have a trade-off between torque and top speed, and just like a bigger tire gives you a bigger speed for the same rpm, it gives you higher torque requirements (less feeling of "torque" riding the wheel because there's less leftover free torque). You could build a 14 incher with the higher top speed and "lower torque" of an 18 incher (simply use less motor windings or whatever), but you cannot get an 18 incher to "have higher torque" without simply increasing the power input (higher battery usage). Otherwise, you could build arbitrarily fast and torque-y motors with arbitrarily small power input, I don't think you can cheat reality this way TLDR: in simple Wikipedia formulas: power = torque * velocity, so if you don't want to increase power input, you gotta take from one to give to the other. Motor build doesn't matter. No cheating! (There will be other, technical reasons to build good motors a certain way.)
  15. meepmeepmayer

    Gotway Nikola EUC.NYC Post-Demo Impressions

    Yea, wheels are getting heavier for absolutely no good reason. The msuper had the luck of being an old design. ACM <19kg... meanwhile 16X 23.5kg, Nikola 24.5kg. Same amount of battery cells, same motor size. How the f**k do they even add 5 extra kg there? I couldn't do it if I had to. Is there a good reason the motors are heavier?