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Bay Surfer

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About Bay Surfer

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    Traverse City, MI USA

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  1. Been there done that! Battery did not fry, but I fried a mosfet on the the controller after riding it back to the car. Repaired the board, its now a spare. Your Bot motor is a sealed unit, so should be OK, the controller I would clean with a good alcohol bath, because of all the dirt collected over time in there and water made MUD.
  2. C+ parts are hard to find, with the rapid development of Cs and E to mainly E+, not many extra parts where made.
  3. Q~ Beer was involved my first ride, yes just hopped on and rode 10m, second try 30m. Wobbling, but got me hooked.
  4. Easy way to check if it is bad mosfet on the controller is to unplug it from the motor/wheel, if it turns smooth unplugged its a bad Mosfet on the the controller. Hope they fix the wheel fast.
  5. Version 1.4 firmware on the board I have now, that board has new Mosfets. Waiting on a new controller, which I'll uptdate to 1.4 when installed, wonder if I'll get a activation code with the new board....
  6. Thought I might get the same range range as a E+ because the 500w motor, didnt think about if you go slower means longer range. If the firmware is (smart), It may recognize the motor and battery and think it is a E+:), Do you use a spare charger port to charge your depleted spare battery outside your wheel?
  7. Well pretty sure my C+ has a 500w motor, kind of says it on the wheel, noticed it while messing with the controller, Controller it seems is ver 1.3 the same as the E+. Thinking of getting a 320WH battery for the C+ which I like best go figure rides better, for more range, and carry the smaller battery extended trips with the C+ or E+. Now I know I will get the E+ range with the new battery, just wondering if I will get the speed and power of the E+?
  8. Received Mosfets from China, soldered them in, put board back in. ITS ALIVE!! Wheeled for a while, speed same, tested torque up steep hill in grass got the angle warning beep, but it held in there. Well I think I may wear some safety gear till the new board arrives from China just in case.
  9. Actually technically speaking EUCs are not self balancing, turn it on and let go guess what it falls over. So technically its not self balancing, and yes I would show a cop that it does not self balance.
  10. My two cents, A E+ can go only 12miles/20Km before the thing tilts back slows you down to 7mph/10kph. That gives you 1 hour of riding at speed 12-14mph/20-24kph before a long beer/Tea recharge, Or you can carry a extra battery. A S2 is 14in tire limits you to paved surfaces, not real good for off paste. You can buy a Gotway of KS and go scary fast and never have to recharge, and you can ride in stereo for twice the price. One thing I've notice with the KS16 peddles are way to low and riders tend to scrape them while riding.
  11. W'ill see, Mosfets will be here before the New controller board. But, I d'ont think the MCU was effected the controller stayed on as long as the wheel moved, plus I did get readouts of temp, voltage etc, through bluetooth. Only one MOSFET was shorted out of the 6 testing them out of circuit. If it works should be fun testing the wheel, I think the speed limiter function use may be good idea. Had to ride 2 miles at 10kph because of low battery on my E+ yesterday, that was tough!
  12. Ya Aliexpress rocks bought 6 STP120N10 for cheap with free fast shipping to the US, will see If they work. Prob replace all the Mosfets, but would be nice not to mess up all the solder joints if I don't have to. Also resealing the board after replacing the Mosfet"s is also a issue.
  13. Pretty sure water did not get in the motor its sealed pretty good, on the other hand the controller and battery compartment are not, only the controller compartment was flooded. Yes I do want a new board, ordering one, Jake at ForwardCa is searching for one close, repairing the board is for fun!, and to say I did it. Not Jone'sen to ride I still have a E+ and a Hurtle generic to ride, But for some reason the C+ is the best wheel to ride off piste. On a side note, the controller is a 1.3 version same as a E+ by looks, but I have been told that a serial # needs to that of a C+, I think I an change that in the firmwear.
  14. While riding off road put the Bot in a stream, flooded the Controller compartment, the wheel beeped the rest of the way out of the woods and finally turned off after getting back to home. Dried the board off, cleaned the muck and dirt off, washed with alcohol, dried again, board would turn on, beeped then turn off, phone would also connect. With controller plugged into unit wheel when turned staggers/thumps, unplugged turns smooth. Checked the MOSFETS in curcuit one is shorted out of the 6, so it seems most likely reason. Want a new board, but seems no one has one in the US, so prob it will have to come from china, by slow boat. So decided why not replace the MOSFET while waiting for fun, well the exact MOSFET I can only get like only 1000 of them, so ordered 6 of a different brand of the same Volt and Amp rating, But could not match the Ohm rating. Question can I get away just replacing one, or should I replace all of the MOSFETS.
  15. Recently toasted my C+ controller by accidentally putting it in a swamp. The C's controller looks the same as the E's and is ver 1.3, Just wondering if a E+ controller would work.
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