thefork

Yeah, that's the other option. No going back though (I guess), if you change your mind, without replacing those hangers. They sure do! Especially if/when riding in wet conditions.

This is exactly what happened in Sweden with Segways. The police wanted to use them for patroling, so all of a sudden, 11 years ago, the law was remade to include self-balancing electric vehicles as bicycles. Before that, a bicycle needed to have, by definition, two axles, pedals, and mechanical brakes. This made it "impossible" to legalise modern PEVs, but as soon as there was a benefit to law enforcement, the story changed. (Of course, I don't have proof that these were the actual sentiments and procedings at the time, so take the above with a grain or two of salt.)

No problem. If you have access to a rotating multi tool, all you need is a cutting disc (preferably reinforced) and a small helping of patience. And eye protection, don't forget eye protection!

I had the same problem and ended up using a small screwdriver and a blowtorch. Heat the tip of the screwdriver until it's glowing red-hot, then jam it in there and let it sit until the plastic cools down and solidifies again. Pull out. Of course, now you need some new plastic bits to replace the ones you just destroyed, but you got four of them with the honeycomb pedals kit. Are you about to put the pedals on a V10F? They don't officially fit this wheel, but it can be done. Read on: To fit the new pedals, you'd need to shorten the axles a bit (the ones included with the new pedals won't fit at all on the V10F, put them to the side). If you don't want to destroy the original axles I recommend buying some 8mm hardened steel rod and cut to size. Be careful when cutting so you don't ruin the hardening by heating the steel up too much. When I did this, I only cut a little bit at a time, then ran it under the tap for a few seconds before resuming the cutting. Finally, you also need to grind away some material on the pedals themselves, otherwise they won't flip down. Mount them on the wheel and you'll see where they catch. Once in a while when grinding, use a sharpie or similar on the newly exposed metal, mount the pedal, and push it down as far as it'll go. This will leave marks in the ink, showing exactly where you need to grind a little more. Keep doing this until you're satisfied. Try to figure out how much of a V angle you'd like before going too far here. This process took me an hour or two per pedal, but slow and steady wins the race. Good luck, I think you'll love the upgrade!

Nope, but I don't tend to squeeze the wheel when l ride. When turning I let the upper pillow rest against my leg, but I've never had any trouble with the ankles. My stance might be wider, with maybe an inch between the shoe and the wheel body.

e-wheels.no (Norway) and ewheels.se (Sweden). They seem to be focusing on Kingsong and Gotway/Begode.

Personally, I don't think pads will do much for you with the V10F. It's already a quite responsive wheel, and adding pads will increase the risk of overpowering it. I'm a pretty small guy and I can easily overpower mine in a steep(ish) uphill slope without any pads. Reasons for getting them would in my mind be: 1) you want to jump; 2) you find the wheel too thin; 3) you want more breaking power; or 4) you want to be more securely attached to the wheel in the event of a surprise pothole, or something such. All good reasons, but myself, I prefer riding "naked." If you do get pads, make sure to use velcro attachment, so you can reposition them as needed.

V10F with V11 honeycomb pedals. Had to grind some material off of the pedals (hot tip: the sharpie trick is very useful here) and put in custom axles. I could have cut down my original axles, but didn't want to destroy them, and the V11 axles are D-shaped and too thin.

I voted even though I'm on a V10F. Not sure if there's a big difference from the V11. I've gone softer and softer over time, and nowadays I have the softness pretty much all the way left (0-10%), commuting mode. Now, I'm a pretty small dude at around 65 kg, maybe I'd have it a little harder if I weighed more. I like the feedback soft mode gives me, kind of like the break pedal on a car, and it helps me when I accelerate (no pads). Oh, and the biggest reason I prefer commuting over off-roading is the constant high-pitched coil whine when in the latter mode. Commuting is whisper quiet to my ears.

Based on what I've heard and seen: 4. Trolley handle will be slightly shorter, so it doesn't stick out as much at the back. 5. The speakers will have more base. 6. The charge port will be bigger (GX16-5). (Forgot where I heard these things, sorry.)

Yes, please and thank you.

For me, bt works better if I disengage the motor (e.g. by laying the wheel down on its side).

Well, the battery on my V5F+ has more or less given in, so I use my bike instead. Actually kind of like the huffing now that my fitness level has become decent. I've been tempted to deploy it just to test it but once you do, you'll have to buy a new one. If you find yourself in an accident your home insurance company will more than likely cover the cost of the replacement, depending on the circumstances, but if it triggers because of a false positive it might be more difficult to get them to pay up.

I have one, and use it every day on my bike, but I would not wear it on an EUC. Unfortunately, Hövding is tweaked for bicycle riding and might not properly detect a crash if you're on something other than a bike. In fact, the company expressly state that the device is not for use on unicycles. They shouldn't even be worn by children on regular bikes, because a child's riding style differs from an adult's. The exakt quote is: "Hövding är endast avsedd för stads- och landsvägscykling. Ej BMX, Mountainbike, enhjulingar, tandem- och trickcyklar mm." --> "Hövding is intended exclusively for road and city cycling. Not BMX, Mountainbike, unicycles, tandem, or trick bikes, etc." Would have been awesome to be able to use it, but I certainly don't want to take the risk.

I like your reasoning, and I also like that the tiltback is related to remaining battery power instead of some fixed speed. ? Another way of controlling the turn speed of the tiltback, however, might be to use a low-pass filter on the input data stream. By designing the filter correctly, one could make sure that temporary short bursts of power don't trigger tiltbacks unnecessarily as well.