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About h0ts1lk

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  • Location
    Middle East/Europe/Asia
  • EUC
    Tesla v2, ACM2+ 1300, ACM2 820wh, Ninebot E+

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  1. Thank you! Sorry so late. I have been traveling. I will message more when I have questions!
  2. Sup guys, I'm sort of in the same boat, except I'm rebuildling a stock Gotway 820wh ACM. @electroman I have the same board you posted except it has LHY20SP written on it. The added "P" is different. Will this BMS work for the Gotway 820wh? I will re-do the whole wiring diagram in Microsoft Power Point before moving foward with the entire setup. I'll post it once I get all the information correct.
  3. Did figure it out? Im doing this as well.
  4. I'm building my own packs, but using the gotway factory BMS and wires. Does anyone have or can find a wiring/tab diagram, schematics, or configuration to include which of the factory wires are soldered to the board? Or maybe a picture of your Tesla battery pack without the plastic film? EDIT: How do I move this to MODs, Repairs and DIY?
  5. Perfect. I'll give this a try in my evenings. Thanks, Carlos. I will update by next week.
  6. Yep, for the modifications. Since I'm buying a new one anyways, I might as well acquire one that is already outfitted. This gives me more piece of mind when I'm riding the wheel at the limits. I do appreciate your advice. Please don't think that I see your words as offensive. It's quite the opposite - I welcome it.
  7. Would your friend be able to help me out on this purchase?
  8. So I did not have a new connector, but I did have the pins and tools to change at least the pins out. I turned it back on, ran calibration, but still the same problem. I started to disassemble the wheel, but someone, probably me, a long time ago, used red loctite on the six large screws holding in one side of the shell. Two of those screws came out fine, but the other four are stripping the head and are there for good. I cannot remove the shell any further without causing permanent damage. I can however, reassemble the entire wheel as-is and ride it, but that leads me to question: How dangerous is this wobble/play? As the wheel and shell lay on it's side, I wiggle the shell, and it is reproducing the same effect though minor than in the video, and is leading me to believe that after +2000km of hard riding, the plastic shell/chasis may be showing wear and tear, thus giving the "wobble" and "play." But again, I am no expert, and a solution is still in the air. As far as I am concerned, there are two possible outcomes to both our hypothesis: either the hall sensor is bad and it's decently safe to ride though serious failure is imminent, or the shell is showing wear and tear which eventually, will result in catastrophe - especially at the speeds that I ride. Both of these scenarios are reason enough for me to say that this wheel is done. For now, I would only feel safe riding this wheel with majority of its parts replaced. What do you think Carlos?
  9. Does anyone have a connection? The website indicates that they don't deliver internationally. If it's a dangerous goods issue, would they deliver only the shell? I would like it delivered anywhere in Europe/Russia. https://www.gevkorea.co.kr/member/login.php?guestOrder=1&returnUrl=%2Forder%2Forder.php
  10. Oh wow, yep. They all move. Thanks, Carlos.
  11. Here I pulled the hall sensor off of the board and inspected it. I moved the cables around and everything seems to move freely. I reinserted the cable and the problem still exists. This is a picture that I took before reinsertion.
  12. I took a look at the pedal and it wasn't loose. Thanks for mentioning this.
  13. Hm.. I am looking at them, but what am I really looking for? The connector is white glued (silicon?) to the board. Shall I remove it and reinsert?
  14. I removed the cover and it doesn't seem like the nut is the problem. Maybe I'm wrong. Can you take a look at the video? Test Video2 Android HD.mp4
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