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esaj

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Everything posted by esaj

  1. I e-mailed the dealer this morning about the Ninebot delivery, but haven't heard back from them yet I do hope it doesn't mean that the shipment has been delayed (it's a domestic web store, so I'm not worried about losing my money, the consumer protection here is really good). If I get a reply telling it's going to be several more weeks or don't hear back from them in a couple of days, I'll likely cancel the order and get a Ninebot One E+ or Gotway from abroad. Also had my first scare that my current wheel was broken. After I returned from my usual hiking trail + practicing backwards riding -trip, I put the wheel to charge. Maybe 5-10 minutes later, I heard the fan of the charger turn off, which should happen only after the battery is fully charged. Looking at the charger, it was showing the green light, as if it was fully charged, but I knew it shouldn't be done until maybe 40-50 minutes later. I tried unplugging the charger and then plug it back. Still showing green. Same if I unplugged it from the wheel (I usually plug the wheel-end first, and then put the charger on the wall outlet, doing it backwards when detaching the charger, ie. wall first, then wheel-end). I cursed that I don't own even a basic multimeter for checking voltages and such. The charger looked all right, no smoke coming out of anywhere etc The wheel would turn on and show 2 leds, so at least it could still get power from the battery, and the battery was not full. So, I opened up the battery compartment. The battery didn't seem to have moved (although there's only a small piece of plastic foam or whatever it's called holding it in place). No bulging in the battery or feeling warm or anything. Then I thought it's probably just a mechanical problem. I plugged the charger back in, and started poking the wires (with one hand, mind you, if I get zapped, I don't want the current to pass through my heart). Not the plastic connector between the charging port and the battery. Nothing when I tapped a bit the wires going into the battery. Then I poked the wires that go into the charging port from the connector. The charger led turned to red and the fan started running. Bingo, just a simple bad connection that had finally failed. After removing the glue/silicone/whatever around the wires, and pulling just a little bit, the entire wire came off from the port. Even though I don't own a multimeter, I do own a soldering iron and wire stripping pliers. After unplugging the charger from the wall and getting the tools, 5 minutes later I had stripped the broken wire, soldered it back into the metal lip of the charging port and covered it with electrical tape. Crisis averted!
  2. That's interesting, where does the extra torque come from? Higher voltage or just something to do with the battery chemistry (giving higher current or something)? Do you know if it wears out the motor faster or could damage the mainboard? I wouldn't mind more speed either, but that looks way too fast to me (taking into account the kind of terrain you ride) Maybe you could ask if Gotway could build you a custom wheel that goes faster Probably would cost a lot though...
  3. ​As far as I know, USB-chargers actually have a handshake where they agree on the charging current with the device, so I don't think it's going to work if you just change the USB-plug into EUC-plug, but could be wrong. Also I think USB uses far lower voltage than EUC-chargers (something like 5V on USB vs. around 60V with EUCs), so that could be a problem too. Probably another "real" EUC-battery in parallel with the current internal battery is the way to go.
  4. You'll get there in your own pace, it just takes more or less time. Like MarkoMarjamaa said, the key is just to keep practicing, after the initial learning curve, you'll probably notice that your balance and control starts to get better more rapidly than at the beginning and you need to pay less attention to what you're doing and can focus more on what's going around you (which is very important before you head out to roads with pedestrian and/or bicycle traffic). My thoughts after trying the wheel for the very first time without training wheels were "how the hell can anyone get going or balance on this" Even when during practicing I didn't notice it, but the next day everything was a little bit easier, little better at turning, little better control... In my case, it took 2 days with 2+ hours practicing per day (so maybe around 5 hours in total?) before I felt confident I could get rid of the strap and it wasn't until after that the around 5-meter diameter turning place at the end of the street was large enough for me to turn on it... Fast forward to today, tomorrow I've been riding three whole weeks (so not that long really, but in total I'd guess around 250+km), and I've gotten to the point where I have no problem with mounting, steep/almost in place turning, slalom, curb jumping, skate park ramps, riding at full speed in hiking paths while avoiding humps, bumps & rocks, climbing and descending very steep hills (up to the steepness where the wheel only just crawls at far less than walking speed, yet I don't need to jump off)... currently been practicing riding backwards for some time (now that's difficult).
  5. Well, I can't speak from much of experience, since I only got one wheel so far, and haven't been riding it but for a little less than three weeks (although I've been riding it a lot, probably way past 200km now)... So this is mostly based on what I've read from these forums, the FB group and from elsewhere around the internet (manufacturers pages and such). In general, I'd suggest to read lots about them, there's very much information available in these forums alone, if you just put your time & mind into it. Performance Performance-wise, there seem to be to two "schools of thought": others say that newbies should have powerful wheels, so they can't as easily "outlean" (meaning, lean too far forwards/backwards, so the wheel can't keep up with torque/acceleration, and you fall/have to run off) it, and so it's more responsive to fast movements. Personally, I (and the "other school of thought) think that at least the most powerful/fastest wheels are not good as your first. Imagine a first-timer or someone with little experience riding something like the "high speed"-model (40+km/h top speed) of 18" Gotway MSuper, and accidentally accelerating it to top speed & over while learning basic things like leaning back and forth... Not a good combination. So a "lower performance" wheel might be good for your first, IMHO. Also, the more powerful wheels tend to cost (sometimes a lot) more, and your first will probably take some beating during the learning phase. I personally bought an used "clone"-wheel for practicing purposes, so I wouldn't be so pissed off when it gets scratched or even breaks (so far, it still works just as fine as ever, but it has fallen over countless number of times), and could ride decently before my more expensive wheel arrives. But if you consider doing lots of off-road riding, or live in a very hilly area, more torque is probably a good thing with learning also (just not necessarily more speed). Don't stare simply at the rated/peak-wattage numbers, there are software limits for top speeds, as well as different amounts of wire rounds in coils etc. that also affect the top speed/torque. Batteries In general, take the range-ratings from the manufactures with a pinch of salt, you're not going to ride 20km on a 130 or 170Wh battery, probably not even with a 200Wh battery. Someone had a signature in this forum saying he gets about 1km per every 11.7Wh, that might be a good rule of thumb, but varies according to rated motor power, rider weight, road surfaces, hills etc. Also, the speed, torque & responsiveness of the wheel start to fade as the battery charge gets lower. So don't expect that you can ride the battery to "0%" (and the wheels won't even let you). Higher wattage (or more parallel batterypacks) = longer lasting power, not just range. When the battery is low, the wheel becomes harder to ride, as it doesn't respond as fast, can't climb hills so good etc. Quality As for the quality of different wheels, again I can't speak from experience, but here's what I've read and deducted (If anyone knows any better or sees some clearly errorneus claims, please correct me): -"No name" or "Anonymous" or "Generic" clones mean wheels from lesser known manufacturers, the quality can be pretty much anything, but rarely very high. My no-name wheel has taken a lot of beating and still works flawlessly, but was sold to the previous owner as having a 210Wh battery, when in reality it has a 170Wh battery. I'd say good for learning, if you can get one cheap (and happen to get one of the better ones, maybe buying used could be a good way, so the previous owner can tell how it has worked etc.). I've even heard of noname wheels with battery packs assembled from used laptop cells (mixed from multiple types of different cells). YMMV. -AirWheels seem to be good quality, but in my opinion, cost way too much compared to their specs, my used wheel has same size/larger battery than most AirWheels (Single-wheeled AirWheels seem to be 132Wh or 170Wh, the dual-wheeled ones can have larger), and probably a motor rated similarly as X3 or X5 (350W or 500W rated, don't know the peak wattage, 800?). Still maybe not a bad choice, but I personally see the price as a bit steep (My yet-to-arrive Ninebot One E was lower price than AirWheel X8). -Firewheels seem highly regarded, but seem to have had a lot of issues with quality control (broken mainboards, dead-on-arrival etc.). Apparently the manufacturer does provide replacement parts free of charge, but waiting for them might a bit nerve wrecking. When they work, I've only heard good things about them -Ninebots are said to be high quality products, so far I haven't seen many complaints (but there have been some, especially regarding some features of the newer firmwares). I think this is the only wheel where you can upgrade the firmware over Bluetooth via app. I've got one of these (the "basic" E-model, not E+) coming, hopefully next week. -Gotways are very highly regarded. They have had some QA issues here and there, but they provide the best performance and highest capacity batteries (up to 850Wh on MSuper), of course they are on the pricey side. -IPS is another well regarded manufacturer. I don't recall seeing anyone having anything bad to say about IPS quality. -Solowheels are the most(?) expensive ones, high power but low top speed. Top-notch quality, but it's left for everyone to decide themselves if they're worth it (price-wise). -Rockwheels have had issues due to being geared (apparently the motor or the gears wear out fast?). Powerful, high torque & speed thanks to gearing, a bit on the pricey side? -King song is a new player in the field, don't know much about it, but heard good things. Rebranded as Milbay in Australia? -Inmotion produces dual-wheeled models only? Don't know much about these... There are probably others I've either forgotten or never heard of before. Hope this helps at least a little bit.
  6. I've read somewhere (but couldn't find right now, I'll edit here if I find it again) that the "international" plus (+) -models (C+ and E+) would have serial numbers starting with N20, but from your list it would look like that's not the case.
  7. Haven't updated here for a while, since nothing that worthwhile happened over the week, and my mom & sister were visiting at my house over the weekend, so didn't have that much time to ride or post here. I've been practicing some curb jumping and more backwards riding (still can't get very far at one go, but I'm getting better at staying up in slower speeds backwards, as well as changing the direction back to front), but mostly just riding the hiking paths and doing some longer paved routes. Over the weekend, the weather got a bit warmer (10-15 celsius), and I've been able to do over 10km routes without the battery dropping to one led. I'd expect around 15km to be the max in optimal temperatures (20-30 celsius) for the 170Wh batteries. I finally ordered a pair of wrist guards early this week after reading the thread about wrist injuries. Seeing myself in cast or having screws in my hand for the summer didn't seem like a nice idea. I was going to skimp a bit and go with cheaper ones (Triple-8 Roller Derbies), but after reading reviews, some people said they weren't very comfortable, so I ended up ordering Flexmeter (apparently also known as Docmeter) double-sided "Plus" wrist guards, which were almost twice as expensive with shipping: http://gearcheck.fi/en/wrist-guards/155-flexmeter-wrist-guard-double-sided.html Apparently they're originally meant for snowboarding, but the Plus-version has extra skid plates for palms, and suits skateboarding, rollerblading and, of course, riding an EUC. They're longer than your usual wrist guards, coming at about halfway my forearm, just below the elbow/forearm pads, and are very good at preventing your wrist from twisting (you have some movement, but not much). After a few days of using them, I've found them very good and comfortable (as long as you don't put the velcros way too tight, I found that you can actually prevent your blood circulation with them ). Only problem so far has been that when it's colder, I don't have any big enough gloves to fit over them due to the large skid plate and backhand plate, but I probably could fit smaller thin gloves under them (the skid plate is removable, but I'd prefer to keep it on when riding). Or just buy bigger gloves, might not be needed though, as it seems it's finally becoming warmer. Here's a couple of videos of the guards: From my experience so far (which, granted, is only a few days), I can recommend these for anyone looking for a solid pair of wrist guards. Also had use for the wrist guards pretty soon, as I had my third fall on friday-night, my own fault . I was riding uphill in the longer hiking path routes I've lately used for practicing, near the speed limit (the speed alarm was beeping all the way). Just before I reached the top and the incline started to become less-steep, I was already leaning forward a bit too much because of the tilted pedals, so entering the less-steep part, I ended up accelerating just a little bit, and managed to hit the top speed. Of course the wheel shut down that instant, and I found out it's not that easy to start running sandy and rocky gravel uphill at around 15-16km/h from standing position, and ended up falling after a step or two Nothing major though, came down hands and knees first, the pads & wrist guard skid plates took the worst hit, I just got up, wiped the dust and sand from my jacket and pads, and continued onward. Talking about speed, over this week I've become increasingly annoyed at the low top speed of my current wheel (of course it was bound to happen). Especially on large empty straights, it really feels slow. Even more today, because after my fall I've been wary of pushing the wheel more after the speed alarm starts around 12km/h (earlier I rode with "just a little bit more"-attitude pushing the limits all the time on straights, but never had a shutdown before ). Hopefully I'll get my Ninebot next week, I've planned on contacting the reseller tomorrow or tuesday, and if there's more delay, I'm starting to lean towards ordering a 18" Gotway MSpeed... Not sure if I want the "high speed version", as I'd expect around 30km/h to be the comfort zone (it's what I usually ride with my bike), not too slow and not too fast on longer straights, so the "balanced/medium"-model with a little bit of extra torque/acceleration vs. the high speed could be good compromise. Plus the law-draft about EUCs says that the top speed shouldn't be above 25km/h, but considering you can't actually ride at the top speed (due to shutdown), I'd prefer to leave some "space" between the two maxes (high torque-model with 28km/h max might be pushing it a bit too close). Not that EUCs are actually yet legal here anyway, but just hoping it would be (or at least appear) street-legal according to the regulations from the day the law is enforced.
  8. Haven't noticed it being any slower than usual. I've got a 100/5Mbit connection though, traceroute shows 14 hops to server (Finland -> US), 160ms latency on average.
  9. I nominate you the greatest Darwin Award Candidate of 2015 (so far) In case you don't know what a Darwin Award is: Just kidding On a more serious note, riding intoxicated will probably give a VERY bad publicity and media attention to EUC riding in general. Not to mention that you're so much more likely to hurt yourself (or even others). Please don't do it. As for protective gear, I still ride with full-face helmet, full pad-set and just got back from getting my wrist guards from mail (yeah, been driving without wrist protection this far). I haven't fallen since the 3rd day crash, and while I've become very confident with my riding skills, you never know what's going to happen, so I still keep using it all. Even though my generic wheel probably doesn't go past 15km/h.
  10. Sounds like you're getting the hang of it! My sides and legs ached a bit in the first few days after riding (using muscles I don't usually need), but it passed fairly quickly. Stretching a bit before and after riding could also help. You'll get there, just keep practicing at your own pace, your muscles get the workout and strengthen, and your balance improves all the time.
  11. Yeah, I'd go with some form of linking between the pedals, I think individual suspension would probably make the wheel harder to control and wobbly, as the suspension would affect also when shifting weight to other pedal for leans and such. Stiffer, short shock absorber (not just a spring, as spring would keep oscillating after movement) MIGHT do it if linked above the wheel fork, but as you suggested before, it might also need some separate guide rails to prevent twisting or swiveling around. ​I use locking pedals when going bicycling for longer routes (20-75km), and I wouldn't ever use such on a wheel. Even when you're used to them, unlocking them in a hurry is not easy. I've set the locks pretty tight, so they won't come off ever pulling upwards, so I can pedal with forward-down-backward-up -movement, using my leg muscles all the way the entire circle. To release the lock, you need to bend your ankle outwards (or inwards) about 10-20 degrees. With less tight locking, you can get your foot free by pulling upwards, but on an unicycle that might not be good either (if you trust the lock to hold your feet on the pedal, but suddenly when dropping over a curb or such, the lock opens, or might open on a hard jump).
  12. Yeah, the weight would definitely be a problem, and the placement of battery and mainboard + wiring. Individually suspended pedals would probably also be problematic, as it would make steering and general riding very hard, so they need to move in unison. Monoshock might work, if the shock absorber is very short (there are mountain bike shock absorbers that are 140mm = 14cm eye-to-eye or even below, 123mm?), the attachment on both ends would need to be probably through-bolted (and welded?) in relation to the horizontal rods/bars, that might be enough to prevent twisting..? ​
  13. One more idea, even simpler...
  14. Seeing vee73's motocross-track video, and how hard the wheel jumps up and down all the time, it got me thinking if it would actually be possible to build some sort of suspension into the wheel. After doodling a bit, I went into TinkerCAD (A free simple 3d-modelling tool that runs on your browser) and created a crude basic shape of what I was thinking (not really in scale). It's a kind of a "two-sided swing fork" (if that's even the correct term in english). Now, I don't know if this would ever actually work in real life (it could become too heavy, move the center of gravity too much upwards, simply break under stress etc.), I'm not a mechanical engineer. Or not much of a drawer, or modeler, for that matter, so I'm not even sure if you understand what the image is supposed to be As the motor is inside the hub, the wiring would also need to be able to withstand constant moving, the uppermost axle should never hit the tire (I put it too low in the 3d-image, it's not supposed to be touching the tire)... Lots of mechanical problems Edit: thinking it further, maybe the "swing arms" aren't even needed..? You guys got any ideas?
  15. Umm, let me get this straight, in case I misunderstood something: -You got the fastest, most powerful EUC out there as your first wheel ever -You practiced for 15 minutes and then went out to drink -You then decide to take it out for a ride in the middle of the night, intoxicated and without any protective gear Broken rib? I'd say you're lucky to still be alive! The protective gear might not be a bad idea from here onwards...
  16. That's some serious speed on a dirt track! Must be hard on muscles. All those bumps and jumps make me wonder if there's a way to add some sort of suspension to a wheel without it becoming too hard to ride...
  17. Yeah, seems to be working again, thanks. Smileys seem to also work again. I have a strike-out line (like this) in my signature, because I thought my wheel had a 210Wh battery, but after opening it up, found out it's actually 170Wh. vee73 has stroked out all the models he has had, but has either given away or sold (the Smart14" in his signature is my current wheel).
  18. It seems that at least the signatures are gone after the update, and I couldn't find where to add one from the settings. Shame, as I found it useful to see what wheels everyone had and such (most people had their wheel models and battery sizes in their signature), but nothing I couldn't live without Also, the smiley images seem to be broken.
  19. Some status update about my progress & other things... I rode over 50km in the weekend (saturday & sunday), mostly just cruising. So in total I've gone way past 100km already, riding 0.5-4 hours a day since the beginning, I've lost count since the first days. Yesterday I went to visit a relative, a little less than 8km ride, but there's a part in the trip where the road has a rise of 64 meters over a stretch of 2.2km, was a bit worried how the battery would handle it. It isn't that steep rise (for the most part), but it's long and inclining all the way. In the end, it turned out to be no problem, the wheel handled it well and was still showing 3 leds at the top (about 6km in total of the way). The temperature was higher (about +10 celsius, slight rain part of the way, it's been raining daily since I got the wheel...) than when I almost run the battery out on a 10km trip (+5 celsius and heavy winds), so the ambient temperature definitely matters with battery. Also, I did some backwards riding practice during the weekend. I go to a small parking lot near a beach, as it's the only "pretty much level" asphalted place within a short distance, and the asphalt's in a fair condition (minor cracks, but nothing big). At first on saturday, I tried by taking support from a structure next to the lot, starting to go backwards from standstill, but after about half an hour made little to no progress and gave up (the wheel would start turning immediately as I started going backwards). Later on I came back and tried the same again, to no avail. The asphalts' a bit inclined next to the building, so that might be a factor. Later on, I watched a video from the speedyfeet -guy where he shows how to do it: Edit: After thinking about this for a little longer, I thought some notes/disclaimer might be good: -When I say "kick the wheel in front of you", I don't mean a literal, strong kick, but rather that my knees are a bit bent, I lean back and straighten them out to push the wheel in front of me. -Taking into account your weight and speed, you have two forces acting on the wheel when doing this: gravity and forward momentum. If you're a heavy weight rider, and/or traveling at fast speed, the forces acting on the wheel can be quite high. You're at the same time sort of pushing the wheel forward with your momentum and asking it to start running backwards by tilting it backwards. There's a risk that the friction between the wheel and the ground is not enough, and the wheel skids forward (ie. it loses grip), and you sort of kick it out from under you. Also, if the battery is low, or you have an over-sensitive BMS over discharge-protection, the wheel might cut out. Crash pants and back armor might be a good idea, or in lack of better equipment, some pillows taped to your back and butt YMMV. So, I went out to the turning spot in front of the house and practiced there. At first, I didn't manage to do it, usually just coming to a standstill (ie. doing fast breaking by pushing the wheel in front of me while tilting it backwards), as I was afraid to keep leaning backwards. After a while, I rode to the next street with similar turning spot, that's a little bit more level (ours is somewhat inclined, making it a bit harder). After maybe 10-20 minutes, I gained more confidence and learned that the move needs to be fairly fast (ie. go slow forwards, then at the same time, lean very slightly backwards, kick the wheel in front of you, then keeping your legs a bit stiff and, if need be, tilt back with your ankles a bit so you get more acceleration backwards, so the wheel is standstill for only a very miniscule time before it starts moving backwards, then regain more "upright" position as the wheel moves under you). I did have to dismount many times when practicing this, but never fell (luckily, I haven't had a fall since the 3rd day crash on video). Yesterday, I also practiced this again in the beach parking lot (without using the support of the structure), and at best, managed to ride maybe 2 meters backwards. Usually the wheel starts to tilt sideways, and I either have to give up and dismount with one leg (the other holding the wheel in place), or start going forwards again to regain my balance. It seems balancing when going backwards in my case is a lot, lot harder than when going forwards. Just need to put some extra effort into practicing. Probably I'm still not leaning backwards enough after the wheel returns under me, and going slowly backwards is really hard. In other news, today it's, less surprisingly, raining again. And harder than before. And it's going to last late into the night. So no wheeling today, but instead I decided this would be the perfect time to take a look at the internals and see if they need more waterproofing or have some other issues. Here's the picture of the actual wheel I ride (I had to use a crappy tablet camera, since I broke my pocket camera on the 3rd day ). That's reflector-tape on the sides, the colors come a bit weird on the camera, it actually reflects yellowish color. I've also got some on the front- and backside of the pedals and on the sides of the main board- & battery-casings, with the colors defined by law for bicycles (red to back, orange/yellow on back and front of pedals & sides, white to front): It turned out that the electronics are accessed from the outside under the rubber pads, so no need to dismantle the entire casing (for which I'd had to tear of the padding that's glued to the midline going around the wheel). If they've saved somewhere when building these, it at least ISN'T the glue used on the red rubber pads. At times it felt my finger nails would come off before the pad. Finally, I managed to locate and unscrew all the six screws holding the plastic under the rubber pad in place: Sorry about the glare from the heat sink, the lighting was not that optimal for taking pictures. But, the good news is, they've actually caulked the switches, leds and the charging port (on the other side). However, for some reason they've left a crudely cut hole on the bottom of the compartment on both sides, luckily only a few grains of sand (the amount you hold on your fingertip) had got in (left: main board compartment, right battery compartment): Only reason I could figure for the hole on the battery-side is that they could put them together either way. Or maybe they just cut the wrong side first The holes aren't that big, around 1x1 cm. I quickly vacuumed through them (not that there was much any sand, but just in case), checked the capacitors on the main board (no bulges, the circuit board looks brand new). And then I checked the battery: But, but... it was supposed to be 210Wh! I asked vee73 about it, and he said he'd never opened it (and considering the pain I had to go through to open the damn thing, I'm pretty sure he didn't ), and apparently it was sold to him as a 210Wh wheel. Oh well, not that biggie (40Wh difference, what's that, 3.5km max? ), after all I wanted a learning wheel FAST, and he delivered. I poked around the internet based on the numbers, and I think the battery is this (or at least similar): http://www.elitop.net/en/proView.asp?id0=4&id1=478&id=517 Didn't cut the shrink wrap open to check the cell manufacturers or their specs, might do that later, if I find the need to shunt the overdischarge-protection on the BMS (haven't had any cutouts yet). So, the main thing was to cover the holes. I cleaned the surrounding with acetone, put small pieces of duct tape to cover them and to prevent the silicone from ending up inside the wheel casing, then put silicone on top of it. As I had used the silicone tube before replacing seams in the bathroom & toilet, I poked the nozzle a bit with a screw driver to get it open, then started pumping with the pistol. But of course, the front end of the tube had dried from too far, and the silicone ended up coming out from the back of the tube. Made some mess, but I finally got the silicone in place using a stick and my finger (not that thick layer, but considering how little dirt had got in before, I think it should hold enough... or then just get a new tube & redo it). This picture also shows the main board -side a bit clearer, I think the "X5"-sticker might mean this is an Airwheel X5 clone? And the battery compartment: For now I've left it open to dry until tomorrow. Edit: fixed some typos
  20. Nice testing, but shouldn't you come to a full stop to see the actual braking distance? Not that it'd probably go that much farther... In my case, pushing the legs forward seems to be the most efficient way of doing fast braking. What I don't get is as I don't accelerate the wheel (at least I think so, have to pay more attention next time I go riding) to get it in front of me, I bend my knees a bit, lean back and push it forwards with my legs and at the same time tilt it backwards with my ankles, so it begins breaking already when I'm pushing it forwards. I use the same technique to start going backwards (not that I'm that any good at it yet, I can ride maybe 2 meters backwards at best, then either have to dismount with my left leg or change back to going forwards, as the wheel usually starts to tilt to one side or the other). Need more practice...
  21. John Flanigan, sorry to hear about your bad luck too. Hope you'll recover fast, and can still ride! I've been riding with full-face helmet, and forearm/elbow- & shin/knee-pads all the time since first mount, but after reading about these wrist injuries, I'm ordering some wrist protectors RIGHT NOW, as I haven't got any yet. Finally made up my mind on the model too, going with double sided Flexmeter Wrist Guard Plus (I was also considering Triple-8 Roller Derby, as they were cheaper, but don't have such good protection as they're shorter, and some users have complained they're not comfortable). They're more expensive than I thought I'd use on wrist guards, but seem pretty good: http://gearcheck.fi/en/wrist-guards/155-flexmeter-wrist-guard-double-sided.html
  22. Those jumps are just insane! I'd probably faceplant right away trying something similar... Motocross-gear for that kind of riding is really not too much, anything less and you probably would end up in a hospital (or worse) after falling.
  23. Newbie + training wheels + metropolis traffic... nope. I'm not 100% sure if I would be ready to ride in our (relatively) quiet city centrum yet, and I'm pretty sure I can ride a lot better than the reporter. We'd need some more positive news about EUCs. Yle (a Finnish public service broadcasting company) did a small interview with a guy driving an EUC in the winter, see if you can recognize him (in finnish): http://yle.fi/uutiset/moottoroitu_yksipyora_herattaa_hammastysta__katso_video/7765480
  24. That's weird, I'd expect it to be easier to attain level 6 dust protection (dust tight) than level 6 liquid protection ("Water projected in powerful jets (12.5 mm nozzle, at least 3 minutes, 100 liters per minute/100kPa at a distance of 3m) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects."). Makes me wonder if they actually mean 65 and not 56. Of course it's better if it really is level 6 liquid protection, as you said, it's probably easy to make it dust tight, I'd expect complete water sealing for higher pressure jets to be a harder feat to do on your own. Not that it really needs to be liquid protected from anything else except splashing water from puddles and rain. Good to hear! Glad you're having fun with your wheel. Also good idea to wear protection, even if (at least later on) you're confident with your own skills, you never know what might happen (wheel turns off suddenly, someone gets in front of you unexpectedly or even crashes you with a bicycle, car or something, in the worst case from behind, before you even realize anything's going to happen). Do you find the skateboard-kick -start to be easier way of mounting than "stepping on from place" and getting going? For me it's the other way around (I can't seem to ever plant my kicking feet correctly when trying to kick for speed and get mounted ). The start sounds similar to mine, at first slowly getting farther and farther at a time, and suddenly you can just ride it (although in my case it was just straight lines and very large diameter turns for the first day). I think everything gets easier over time, it just takes practice. Personally I didn't find going downhill very hard, just control the braking and don't let the wheel gain too much speed. Might be better to learn with less steep hills first, of course I'm seeing some improvement I'm happy with. I can turn in fairly tight spaces without problem and drive straight at crawl speed for pretty much as long as I want. Mountings are pretty much on the first go (but still not always). Today when I went for a ride, I could ride kilometer after kilometer with no need to stop to get my feet in better position, slowing to crawl and sometimes even stopping (but not dismounting) for a while at intersections to see that there's no cars or other people coming, circling pedestrian, dog walkers etc. This on hard surfaces. During about 7km ride, I stopped once to chat with a neighbour. After that, going a bit "offroadish" for some kilometers, the wheel slid on a small muddy spot, so I had to jump off, and another time after dropping into a hole after a small bump (didn't see the hole beforehand, but just stepped off when I felt the wheel drop & get stuck) at a near by sports field. Other than that, everything went pretty smoothly. I'll probably start trying going backwards next this weekend. Hobby16 had a good point about using the strap again when learning that. My backyard is far too bumpy for it (rode around it today, and it's very uneven, you just don't notice it as much when walking on the lawn), so need to find some other place. Balance-wise, it would probably be easier on hard, even & level surface, but landing on my ass on asphalt doesn't sound like something I wanna do, so gotta figure something out... Edit: went for another 10km ride, left around 10pm and got back around an hour later. After about 8km, the battery-indicator was still showing 3 leds, but after about 9km, it dropped to 2 leds. During the final climb back, I noticed the wheel felt more "sluggish", and chose to rode up pretty slowly, in case it would cut out. This is the first time I've really noticed that the wheel starts to lose power. When I stopped in front of my house, the indicator was showing 1 led. Maybe it was due to the lower temperature (around +5 Celcius and chilly winds), since this time I was riding just paved streets, but on one of my trips before I got between 11 and 12km riding on more demanding terrain and didn't notice anything during the last climb. Of course it could also be because I was (probably) driving faster on average than on the other long trip.
  25. Just keep trying, you'll get there After I got moving, my first tries without the training wheels were pretty wobbly too, as my feet were very uneven. It takes some practice to get them correct, and in my case, also took a lot of practice to learn moving my feet on the pedals when riding (still not that good at it, but getting better, I can now ride for kilometers on end without the need to stop and remount to get my feet in better position). I'd expect that you should be able to get farther and farther fairly quickly after you get the mounting-part to go right. Once you get your balance sorted, you'll notice that you can control the acceleration and braking of the wheel with very slight shifts of your center of gravity (or larger ones, if you want to accelerate/brake harder). Although this probably is a bit different with different wheels (some might be more or less sensitive).
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