Jump to content

euc

Full Members
  • Content Count

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

34 Excellent

2 Followers

About euc

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    /home
  • EUC
    no

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If the PCB is the same, it should be fine.
  2. See attachments. I'd like to buy a replacement controller. I found a lot of similar looking ones on aliexpress, but nothing that really looks the same...
  3. Hey everyone, I bought an electric unicycle a couple of years ago from a small online shop. Now I'm trying to remember shop's name, but I just can't remember and all my emails related to that shop are long gone. The only thing I remember is that the shop doesn't exist anymore and I think it was a Chinese shop. Now I'm trying to figure out the name of the shop so that I can look up the email address of the person who owned the domain so I can try to contact him/her. If you know of any online shops like that, I would appreciate it if you could post it here.
  4. Thank you so much esaj, you're amazing!
  5. Wow, you are awesome! I know, but once I have the ESP-32 and found a better watch strap, it will be really slim.
  6. Oh, almost forgot. I have attached watch straps to the prototype now
  7. I think I might actually prefer such a big screen. I don't know. I will order a few of those today. Maybe you can answer a couple of questions for me. How well can you read the screen on full brightness outside and is it possible to read it when the sun is shining? How much power does it draw at a reasonable brightness? edit: Thinking about it, a resistive touch screen might not be a very good choice. I think capacitive touch would be nicer for swiping gestures etc. And the ESP-32 actually even has a capacitive touch sensor built in.
  8. Yes, that's why I was so confused. I also couldn't really find a datasheet for it. I found this though: http://www.elecfreaks.com/wiki/index.php?title=1.8"_TFT_LCD:_TFT01-1.8#Pin_definition_and_Rating ant it mentions a "touch bus". The ESP-32 will have 33 GPIO pins, so that shouldn't really be a problem. But I think that 2.4 inches will be too much for a smartwatch. I mean I really like the idea of a smartwatch that has a bigger screen than a normal smartwatch, 2.4" seems too much though, but it's hard to say without actually having one in front of me. Is your screen a touch screen?
  9. What do you think guys? Could that actually be a touch screen? I'm having a surprisingly hard time finding a simple 1.4-2 inch touch screen for around $5. I mean you can buy a whole smartwatch for $12, but I just need the screen.
  10. $100 for a watch is just too much imo. I don't need anything fancy. I just need it for the unicycle.
  11. I recently ordered one of these 10 dollar smartwatches. Maybe something interesting can be done with it. But I think it can probably only act as a slave device.
  12. My watches battery lasts for about 40-50 minutes with the screen being on and the Bluetooth being connected all the time. When I connect it, it draws about 40mA, when it is searching for the EUC it draws about 70mA. (@ 5V btw) On the battery it says 0.37Wh, but I'm only getting maybe half of that. I think the battery has not been charged/discharged properly. I'll definitely add another button to turn on/off the display. But the Bluetooth will still draw probably 90% of the power. I think I can get the HC-05 to use less power. From what I remember, there is a power saving mode that can be enabled. And I could also adjust the scanning interval and duration. All the parts for the watch combined cost about 8 US$ btw. HC-05, Arduino Pro Mini, 100mAh LiPo, I2C OLED display, Step up converter, Switch (To charge and protect the battery you might wanna add one of these Charging modules For me it was more like 6US$, as I have ordered all those parts in larger quantities btw. When the ESP-32 comes out it might even be a dollar cheaper. (In addition to being only a third the size. )
  13. Technically, you just need a valid "voltage"/"percent" list for the euc you are riding. Then you could simply time how long it takes to drop by one percent and how far you got during that period. Then it's just a matter of extrapolating. The downside would obviously be that you have drive a few meters before an estimate can be calculated. But the upside is that you don't need a persistent storage.
  14. I was just trying to say that I could imagine different batteries to have a different percentage left when outputting the same voltage. Okay that's good to know. But there would still be the manufacturer problem. According to these graphs, it's safe to say that you couldn't properly predict the available capacity in percent just by reading the voltage:http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?257543-LiIon-18650-battery-comparison But I don't know if the same would happen with battery packs behind a bms. Personally, I'd prefer an estimate of how many kilometers I can ride until the battery is empty.
  15. Very interesting! I have a question about the "Battery voltage and power" list. I was planning to create something similar, but I wasn't sure if it would make any sense. What if the battery is very old and has been charged a few hundred times? Wouldn't the results differ quite a lot? And what if you have two battery packs in parallel? Would that make a difference? Or what if the li-ion cells are from a different manufacturer?
×
×
  • Create New...