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Sam LaRoche

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  1. There appears to be a shaft that is secured into the casing by the pedals. This is where I chickened out with regards to disassembly. After removing all the screws from the pedals and casing and it still didn't want to come apart with minimal force, I stopped. I will snap some pics next time I have it apart. At this point, since it appears Ninebot and Solowheel are the only two manufactures allowed in the US, I am just waiting for the Ninebot One Pro. I'll miss the speakers available on the KS but I expect the Ninebot will overall be a better device.
  2. I have the 800w motor. Since I noticed it this morning, its been pretty constant and the issue remains after calibrating. Since these are all but banned here and being on the east coast, not much selection on distributors or anyone that can test it. Found the control board when I took it apart. What might I be able to do to test that it is working properly?
  3. Thanks for the info Cloud. So even if the play was there before, it certainly wasn't as much as it is today. It is just so noticeable now that I know it wasn't like this a few rides ago. I really notice it when I'm sitting and my legs aren't helping to absorb the ride and weight distribution to the wheel. Makes it feel unsafe to sit on because the wheel acts a little goofy when I hit bumps or dips in the sidewalk. Any idea on what causes it or how to tighten it up?
  4. Not sure if the KS is "safer" than other models but I can tell you from experience, the KS can fail without warning from a low battery condition. I had originally purchased a 540WH KS-18A and tried to ride it the 18.5 mile trip to work and back. At about 1/4 of a mile from the destination, it died. No warning beeps or tilt back. Wasn't pleasant. Then decided to make sure I charged after every ride (~9 miles). After a few weeks, a wire came loose and the battery display showed more life than what was actually available. Again it cut out w/o warning of any sort. I've now upgraded to 680 Wh of battery so I can safely go round trip w/o much fear of a low battery condition. My suggestion is to not run the battery anywhere near no remaining power. I also wear elbow and wrist guards for any distance riding. I've wrecked at full speed w/o either and luckily I am a pretty good tumbler and escaped with only a couple scrapes. One could easily loose a few teeth if you don't know how to tuck and roll. Either way, after 4 wrecks at full "unlocked" speed (~20 MPH), I can say that wrecks on a EU should be avoided all together!
  5. I have a KS-18A that I've had for about 6 months now. I've beat it up pretty bad through several wrecks, some my fault, some from the wheel cutting out. Anyway, I've noticed that there is now what I can only describe as play in the wheel. When moving the body of the unicycle back and forth (front and back, not side to side) there is some gap in where the wheel spin changes direction. It seems there is about ~1-2 inches of movement before the gyros seem to notice the change in direction. It seems to be working okay and I've put ~15 miles on it since I noticed the behavior. After a few wrecks at 15-20 MPH, I am a bit more cautious than I was when I started out so I am a little more careful about charging and paying attention to any strange behavior I started to take the thing apart but was having trouble getting the wheel separated from the body and decided to put it back together before actually separating the two. Unfortunately, the play still exists after reassembly. I believe whatever is going on is with the gyros or a magnet inside the wheel. Has anyone noticed this kind of "play" in their KingSong or other EU? Any ideas? Cheers and thanks in advance!
  6. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong but trying to use the jar app and it is not launching on my windows 10 machine (after adding the full path of the java\bin dir to my environment variables)...maybe using the wrong version of java? I also tried the apk but it didn't seem to unlock my KS-18A. How hard is it to unlock the code for C4:BE:84:EE:F9:5C ?
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