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hyperair

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About hyperair

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  • Birthday 10/15/1990

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  • Location
    Singapore
  • EUC
    Gotway MCM with Microworks internals, Inmotion V5F, Inmotion V8, Rockwheel GT16

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  1. I think Strava had something like private areas, and all parts of any ride that entered the area were either automatically redacted or just not shown to the general public. I think that would be a pretty nice feature to have in EUC World as well.
  2. This might work: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32905014845.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4573b3dcSspMF5&algo_pvid=433e8a97-c882-42de-8d3f-e129f202c5d8&algo_expid=433e8a97-c882-42de-8d3f-e129f202c5d8-4&btsid=1e0c7cdc-d1d4-4413-8f2b-232fbcfbe343&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_8,searchweb201603_55 Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Metric-Spanner-Tubular-24mm-27mm-Fitting/dp/B07WDQ4K2T
  3. I think Ninebot hammers some metal shims into the gap between the six nut side faces and the cylindrical wall of the pedal hangers, which prevents it from unscrewing. It's a workable system until you want to replace the motor, because it damages the pedal hanger every time you install that shim. Inmotion seems to just use threadlock as far as I can tell. I suspect that the only difference between Inmotion and Gotway in this regard is how tightly they install the nut (whether they use a torque wrench for repeatable torque, or whether they just use a normal wrench and tighten by feel), and whether or not they use threadlock. Another thing is that none of the other vendors using the wheel nut system have wheels above 16" in diameter (I think), and the torque requirements on the axle go up linearly with an increasing wheel size. It might simply be that this system fails on wheels with larger torque requirements, or that the wheel nut needs to be installed with more torque on these larger wheels. Also, did Gotway increase their axle size? I suspect that an increase in thread size requires a corresponding increase in nut tightening torque.
  4. Inmotion uses the same system as Gotway, and IIRC, so does Ninebot, and this is before we even get into the various off-brand wheels on the market. The only EUC manufacturers I've seen using the King Song pedal arm clamp system are King Song themselves and the Rockwheel (specifically the GT16).
  5. If you need the stuff to reapply it, look for a neutral-cure Silicone, e.g. Kafuter K-705. Like @Seba said, don't use the acetoxy stuff (the stuff you use on sinks), because it can corrode the metal parts that the fumes touch. Otherwise, if you're in a pinch and need something real quick, hot glue works too. For removing them, drip isopropyl alcohol over the joint between the gunk and the substrate -- hot glue will pop right off, silicone will get softer, but still require digging to remove.
  6. @Aneta Where'd you find the Rockwheel BMS photos? I can't seem to find any, and I've been looking for a while. Almost -- GT16 has 4x 10S2P BMSes, of which there is some communication going on between series packs (there seems to be a 3-wire connector for communication here), and potentially communication between the parallel packs (I've not been able to verify this as my vendor replaced the packs on one side with a third-party set after it shut down on me at 23km/h). Many wheels with parallel BMSes have a wire to synchronize the charge/discharge cutoff MOSFETs to mitigate the explosive rebalancing issue (one pack at 100% charges another pack at 0% explosively) documented in https://us.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/wiki/batteries#wiki_increase_the_capacity_with_batteries_in_parallel. The KS18L, which has 2x 20S2P packs with independent BMSes, has this wire. I think the GT16's battery packs are potentially one-of-a-kind, and I'm rather curious to see what the BMS looks like. Additionally, I don't see a charge-cutoff-sync wire connecting the parallel packs, so I've been slightly concerned that the issue mentioned above could happen to an aging GT16 battery pack. No, some BMSes don't balance the cells, but simply stop the charging process when any one cell hits the max voltage of 4.2V. I left my Inmotion V8 battery plugged in for days (cumulatively, I unplugged it when I left the house), but the battery was pretty far out of balance and not fixing itself. Manually balancing that pack by charging up the low cells helped buy some cycles until the battery pack fell out of balance again. The Inmotion V5F, V8, and GT16 packs, at least, still cut power when cells dip below the minimum allowable voltage. I don't think output protection was current-based as much as it was a per-cell-voltage thing. The V5F and V8 packs at least had a smart connector that could signal errors to the motherboard so that it could enter deep tiltback instead of violently dropping the user. The discharge-cutoff bypass (aka shunt) was a rather dangerous thing that exchanged the risk of a BMS cutoff for an increased fire risk, because that discharge cutoff MOSFET is the only thing preventing a battery pack from being over discharged to the point of voltage inversion. And you wouldn't even know you had a dead cell until you charged it up again and it set your house on fire instead. I wouldn't even be surprised if the e-scooter fires in Singapore were caused by something like this.
  7. Some things I picked up while working on battery packs: You can't turn off a battery, so be very careful with exposed leads -- shorting a battery pack can spray vapourized metal 84V DC can shock you pretty hard, so think twice before picking up a fully-assembled battery pack with exposed leads (I picked up an assembled V8 battery pack with left hand over the B- connection and right hand over the B+ connection -- fun times). Consider adopting the one-hand rule wherever possible, and being extra careful when you need to bring both hands in. Watch where your solder wire goes -- if it drags over another part of a battery pack, you can short it while soldering a joint. Silicone wires have fragile insulation. The insulation can crack easily if kinked and get scraped off if pulled through a small hole.
  8. @Seba I tried out the new EUC World update today and it looks great. One issue though -- battery percentage estimation on my Rockwheel GT16 no longer works. Did you rebase my GT16 detection fix out?
  9. Double-check to make sure you've removed all screws (two on the front and back lip, three underneath the cushion, two underneath the valve cover). Then pry it open bit by bit. Gently pry it with a bit of force until you feel the cover flex, and see where the next attachment point is. Once you've popped one or two catches, slide your minus screwdriver deeper into the case and pry around gently. Try to work your screwdriver deep into the spot I've circled in red, between the inner and outer shell, and pry upwards. If you can't get your screwdriver in at first, try to work it loose with your fingers.
  10. Yeah, I can confirm the same behaviour -- my battery pack has not charged up to 84V in a while despite being left plugged into the stock charger for extended periods in the hopes that it would balance itself. In the end, I did have to pop it open for manual balancing from time to time. I believe all multi-S BMSes need to do the same, or you will encounter overcharge-induced thermal runaway as the pack falls out of balance towards end-of-life.
  11. @alcatraz These are great tips, thanks! I was a little worried about finding space to tuck the balance wires away after reinstalling the battery pack though. Do you route them out of the hard case, or tuck them inside?
  12. My original cells are falling out of balance, and I was thinking of rearranging them by pairing the strongest cell to the weakest cell to even out the capacities of each pair. If the discharge characteristics don't change, this should in theory make the pack less likely to fall out of balance, but I'm worried that I've overlooked something that could cause it to fail catastrophically instead of safely when it finally reaches end-of-life.
  13. I got my connectors on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32334157998.html
  14. I can contribute a little regarding this -- the Lenovo-type connector has 3 connection points, not 2 (you missed the pin), and the V5 has it wired slightly different from the KS18L: KS18L charger Outer contact: positive Inner contact: negative Centre Pin: disconnected KS18L wheel Outer contact: positive Inner contact: negative Centre Pin: positive V5 charger and wheel: Outer contact: disconnected Inner contact: negative Centre Pin: positive This has two important implications: The KS18L can use the V5 charger, but the V5 cannot use the KS18L charger. If you wire up a female C36 connector in the same way as the KS18L wheel, you can accept both V5 and KS18L chargers. Making a charge adapter for the Inmotion V5 is much more difficult than the KS18L because male plugs don't seem to be available on their own, and the off-the-shelf barrel-to-C36 plugs leave the centre pin disconnected as well. Additionally, the Inmotion V8 uses a GX12-3 connector, but the Solowheel equivalent (Glide 3?) uses a GX12-4 connector (those jackasses just had to make it incompatible). I don't recall what the pinout was, though.
  15. There's an easy trick for this: Screws that have their heads near the top surface of the battery pack hold the battery pack in the wheel. Unscrew these. On new Inmotion V8s, there are only two of these. Screws that have their heads at about half-depth hold the battery pack casing together. Don't touch these. I've wondered about which way is better for capacity matching -- do you put the weakest cells (lowest capacity) in parallel with the strongest cells (highest capacity), or do you match cells with the closest capacities together in parallel? I can think of pros and cons for both sides, but I'm not sure which is ultimately better/safer.
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