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About hyperair

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  • Birthday 10/15/1990

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    Gotway MCM with Microworks internals, Inmotion V5F, Inmotion V8, Rockwheel GT16

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  1. Double-check to make sure you've removed all screws (two on the front and back lip, three underneath the cushion, two underneath the valve cover). Then pry it open bit by bit. Gently pry it with a bit of force until you feel the cover flex, and see where the next attachment point is. Once you've popped one or two catches, slide your minus screwdriver deeper into the case and pry around gently. Try to work your screwdriver deep into the spot I've circled in red, between the inner and outer shell, and pry upwards. If you can't get your screwdriver in at first, try to work it loose with your fingers.
  2. Yeah, I can confirm the same behaviour -- my battery pack has not charged up to 84V in a while despite being left plugged into the stock charger for extended periods in the hopes that it would balance itself. In the end, I did have to pop it open for manual balancing from time to time. I believe all multi-S BMSes need to do the same, or you will encounter overcharge-induced thermal runaway as the pack falls out of balance towards end-of-life.
  3. @alcatraz These are great tips, thanks! I was a little worried about finding space to tuck the balance wires away after reinstalling the battery pack though. Do you route them out of the hard case, or tuck them inside?
  4. My original cells are falling out of balance, and I was thinking of rearranging them by pairing the strongest cell to the weakest cell to even out the capacities of each pair. If the discharge characteristics don't change, this should in theory make the pack less likely to fall out of balance, but I'm worried that I've overlooked something that could cause it to fail catastrophically instead of safely when it finally reaches end-of-life.
  5. I got my connectors on aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32334157998.html
  6. I can contribute a little regarding this -- the Lenovo-type connector has 3 connection points, not 2 (you missed the pin), and the V5 has it wired slightly different from the KS18L: KS18L charger Outer contact: positive Inner contact: negative Centre Pin: disconnected KS18L wheel Outer contact: positive Inner contact: negative Centre Pin: positive V5 charger and wheel: Outer contact: disconnected Inner contact: negative Centre Pin: positive This has two important implications: The KS18L can use the V5 charger, but the V5 cannot use the KS18L charger. If you wire up a female C36 connector in the same way as the KS18L wheel, you can accept both V5 and KS18L chargers. Making a charge adapter for the Inmotion V5 is much more difficult than the KS18L because male plugs don't seem to be available on their own, and the off-the-shelf barrel-to-C36 plugs leave the centre pin disconnected as well. Additionally, the Inmotion V8 uses a GX12-3 connector, but the Solowheel equivalent (Glide 3?) uses a GX12-4 connector (those jackasses just had to make it incompatible). I don't recall what the pinout was, though.
  7. There's an easy trick for this: Screws that have their heads near the top surface of the battery pack hold the battery pack in the wheel. Unscrew these. On new Inmotion V8s, there are only two of these. Screws that have their heads at about half-depth hold the battery pack casing together. Don't touch these. I've wondered about which way is better for capacity matching -- do you put the weakest cells (lowest capacity) in parallel with the strongest cells (highest capacity), or do you match cells with the closest capacities together in parallel? I can think of pros and cons for both sides, but I'm not sure which is ultimately better/safer.
  8. Before anyone tries connecting multiple BMSes in series, you should be careful about this, as the charge/discharge cutoff MOSFETs are sometimes not rated for the stacked voltage of the battery pack. https://us.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/wiki/batteries#wiki_increase_the_voltage_with_batteries_in_series
  9. You can, but you lose the safety feature where the BMS gracefully warns the wheel to tilt the rider off and turn on warning indicators (as opposed to a sudden power-cut) when a cell has dropped below critical voltage. It's a very nice feature, and I'm glad that my V5F and V8 didn't drop me on my face when the batteries fell severely out of balance.
  10. Yeah, the full steps to remove the battery are: 2 screws on the outer shell near the right pedal Twist the cover off Remove 2-4 retaining screws from the battery (4 in the old model, 2 in the new model) Disconnect 2-3 connectors (XT60 + 7-pin JST connector in the new model, XT60 + 5-pin JST connector + 2-pin JST connector) Slide the battery out Then just do the thing in reverse to reassemble. Among all the wheels I've seen, only the Inmotion V8 had "swappable battery" on their marketing material, so don't judge the V8 by your experience with other wheels in this regard.
  11. Nah, actually I quite like it like this. In the default configuration, the pedal scrapes against the case and leaves a lot of grit and sand on it when folded. The magnets in this setup keep the pedal from hitting the case so that no longer happens. Also I used two magnets on each side because one wasn't strong enough.
  12. @Chriull That's a really nice animation. Could you share the OpenSCAD code please?
  13. I had a similar issue where my V8 was stuck in deep tiltback mode after exhausting the battery and recharging to full. Power cycling it that way solved the issue.
  14. Update: turns out the Gotway pedals had magnets in them, so I stuck a pair of neodynium magnets onto the case with gorilla tape. Works really well.
  15. Try power cycling it -- unplug the battery (yellow XT60 connector and 5- or 7-pin JST SM wire connector), wait a few seconds for the green light on the controller to fade, and plug the battery back in.
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