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About JustGR

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • EUC
    Nikola AR+, Tesla V2 (sold), MCM5 V2 (dead)

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  1. Up to you, if you think it feels comfortable, you could try. The Nikola Plus is a fat wheel, so fatter pads would just get in your way.
  2. I'm assuming you got it working? Packaging should have included a small card telling you how to unlock it (Mine did). Use the included Begode Power pads btw, you'll need it for torque. If you want something thinner, I'd recommend Shane's pads (ShanesPlanet on the forums).
  3. I know, I purchased that exact wheel two weeks ago Just wanted to make sure.
  4. Might be a dumb question, but what's an AE Nik+?
  5. Upgraded from a Tesla v2 to a Nikola AR+ and was wondering about what modifications I could make to it. One of the first things I noticed is that the stock pads (oval) make the wheel fatter and uncomfortable to ride, so I bought some motorcycle tank pads for grip. I also added soft velcro on the sides of the handle slot to give it more friction, as I'm sure I don't want the handle popping out during a crash. Something tells me that I need power pads for wheel torque, as this wheel is harder to get going than the Tesla. Also factory calibration might be a degree forward, which
  6. Curious if you sold the wheel. Was also wondering if you wanted to sell any of the other wheels you have. Feel free to DM me if you prefer.
  7. Edit : Bought a Nikola AR+. Looking to "upgrade" from my Tesla V2 to a better wheel that lets me do my 3-mile commute to and from work every day @30-35mph and has enough range to last at least 50 miles. The Nikola+, , RS19 HT, and V11 seem to be the wheels that fit that criteria without exorbitant pricing, but I'm not strictly limiting myself to those. Open to swapping wheels (+ $) if someone is interested. Nothing wrong with the Tesla V2, I just feel slightly limited by the range and top speed for my use case. Feel free to DM me with offers if you'd like.
  8. Got to see this wheel in person. Posting here to let potential buyers know : Wheel is as advertised and works great. Just wasn't a good replacement for my Tesla V2, but is a good EUC nonetheless. Good luck to whoever gets it!
  9. Would you be interested in "downgrading" to a Tesla V2 then? Purchased it from someone who never learnt to drive it, and have driven it for around 150 total miles, all over the last month. Aside from slight cosmetic damage on the top from the kneepads, and one blemish on the back, it's basically brand new. Stock configuration with Armor-Dilloz in the tire for puncture protection. As newbies to the forum we can't DM one another here, but I am fine with email : giyer@buffalo.edu
  10. If this is still available, and assuming I understand what kind of wheel you'd prefer, I might be willing to trade for my Tesla v2 1020Wh. Not a 14", but just as nimble, if not more stable. Only has around 200 miles on it, all over the past 3 weeks. Only the ring shells have cosmetic wear, and the tire has been Armor-Dilloz'd for puncture protection, everything else is stock and fully functional. Would this be of any interest to you? Will try sending you a DM if you're ok with it.
  11. I've been riding my Tesla V2 for nearly 4 weeks now, and think it's about time to mess with the internals it as much as I can. I've considered wiring a rear light, constructing a roll cage, and covering the batteries with potting compound as well as weatherproofing tape for sturdiness. But at the top of this list is waterproofing the body/shell with silicone, along with the motor rim. Has anyone here gone through the motions of waterproofing the Tesla V2 for sudden showers/rain? If so, how far did you get? Any pointers on how to go about it? Would it be a good idea to marine grease the be
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