Jump to content

StealthPhoenix

Full Members
  • Posts

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

StealthPhoenix last won the day on January 10 2021

StealthPhoenix had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
    Manhattan, NYC
  • EUC
    RS19 HT (x3), monster pro, mten3 (x2), commander, lynx (soon!)

Recent Profile Visitors

259 profile views

StealthPhoenix's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Reacting Well
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

55

Reputation

  1. my own lynx will be arriving soon, so my own experience with knobby and street tires is coming from monster pro (after market street tire) and commander (knobby) tires. I ride 90% asphalt btw but have been to some trails. that being said, ive rode my commander with a knobby tire for more than a year and it wasnt that hard to get used to. the added "hum" of the wheel with the knobby tire actually helps a little bit in the street to alert some people around you. aside from that, yeah it was a little bit annoying to not have as much stability as i could have had on turns if i chose a street tire, but it wasnt really noticeable after i got used to the sudden "drop" on turns due to the lack of rubber on the tires to accommodate all angles of lean.. ...if you are an adaptable rider and you dont mind that learning curve to get used to the knobby tire on street, then it might be worth it to keep the knobby if you also want to do trails somewhat regularly. but i also took my monster pro over some wet trails and rocky/gravel terrian with an aftermarket street tire and it actually held up. i took those areas very slow however, and i did not have confidence in the tire, because it was wet and the rocks were not level. but i was able to get thru it. if i had a knobby tire in those situations, i would have gotten thru it as well, but i would also have more confidence in doing so. ------ i have ordered my lynx with a tubeless street tire however, and it should be here tomorrow...then i can test and see if i gain any additional insight. good luck to you!
  2. came here cuz i found the post funny. then i see youre a fellow Gothamite, but from the suburbs! i agree with you though haha
  3. just a PSA to no one in particular: I haven't been here in years...great to see everyone still going strong! just as fyi, ive decided to finally cave and get my first suspension wheel as well as my first leaperkim wheel (been a total gotway/begode fan boy since i started back when the rs19 first came out around covid) with the latest batch Veteran Lynx from ewheels. -------- not an urgent need to know, but just out of curiosity: - would anyone happen to have a shipping container number for the latest batch set to arrive sometime before end of may 2024? - would the largest foam clark pads (the titans) fit on the lynx? - anyone have tire recommendations? ive ordered with the ewheels street tire....i loved the pilot on my old monster pro years ago, was a total game changer. -------- apart from that, yall be well!
  4. i ride mine in rain (during rain/after rain) and snow, and super cold...but i have waterproofed it (not fully...maybe one day ill do it fully) but i dont lay the euc on its side afterwards. i also try not to go through puddles more than 25 mph..ideally less than 15 mph i also dont let my battery go below 15%. ideally, i would not let it go below 20% i never fast charge it. and i charge within 24 hours or sooner, regardless of how much ive drained the battery. if i do leave it on overnight, i unplug as soon as i can, and turn it on and let the wheel freespin for a few seconds
  5. ive been monitoring the various ideas everyone has been having regarding these problems... but there is NO problem if you waterproof your euc BEFORE EVER going out to ride in rain or snow. jumps and stunts would be better if you exchanged with the shorter pedal hangers that increase height. for the knocking noise, i already posted solution but the key thing is this: when you use the euc for things it was never advertised to be used for, especially the stock version, without any waterproofing treatment or modifications, then you should expect some negative result - your euc failing on you. you are suggesting LOCTITE to hold the bearing on the cover and/or axle. i saw someone elses video where they are applying GREASE AND LUBRICATION to the axle where the bearing goes on lol a new person would be perfectly confused who to follow, what to do
  6. without proper waterproofing, its foolish to ride in rain! no wonder people are having problems
  7. aesthetically i too had reservations about choosing between the RSHT and the V11, the V11 won hands down of course. but i chose the RSHT as the more pragmatic fun. and i love the RSHT. absolutely no regrets. max speed at like 35, up hills and in the rain. a few days ago i went up a narrow 14% spiraling hill (per the strava bike app) after a snow fall with about 1" (not much but still) of snow. people will mention the bearing issues for hollow bore motors (which is actually a grinding and knocking sound that develops for some buyers of either EUC), but this is a misconception mainly, i know because i solved it id get the v11 for my wife, and the rsht for myself if i were you. all the excellent points have already been made by the cool kids above! enjoy!
  8. @Asphaltif i had used such a product, idve provided the link already. but ive not used one that i can readily back up. there is only one product currently that im entertaining https://www.hot-stopl.com/product-details.html its a flame retardant bag used by the airlines mainly. its pricey though starting at $820USD. but my euc has a lot of space for me to rearrange the battery pack so i can fit it inside this bag. a project in itself though.. ..since i am still researching, note the "?'s" in my previous post. -------------------------- with the stickers suggested, have you tested them under duress? they seem awfully small to stop any fire from the battery packs. but i WOULD consider buying a whole bunch and just lining the whole inside shell with them, or around the entire battery pack...not just one strip. i dont know, you are the experienced one here. tell us. --------- edit: i was looking at different fire retardant epoxy/resin products, the bag style products, paints and aerosols etc. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Fire-Barrier-Plenum-Wrap-5A-/?N=5002385+3293123895&rt=rud https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/?N=5002385+8711017+3294857497&Ntt=fire&rt=rs the whole spectrum if we limit it to only 3M. https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/na/us/en/protective-marine/products-by-industry/all-products.html?fq=ads_f10004_ntk_cs%3A("Fire Protection")&page=1&tabSelected=product&type=product the 14 fire protection coatings available by sherwin williams sure they are suited more toward building applications, referring to intumescent coatings and cementitious coatings, but if it can aid in fires for larger structures, despite battery pack fire falling into class bcd territory, those compounds could help. as well, polycarbonate fire retardant shells could be used in the manufacture of the eucs, or we enterprising individuals can take it upon ourselves to make such a product and then....link it for you. but this is still only basic research at this stage
  9. ive done a BIT of off roading (mud, dirt, grass, uneven and bumpy gravel, hills, snowy hills up and down - 1" sticky snow/fresh powder, rain, all in cold weather so far - below 45F up to 28F) on a RS19. but i hardly have done high jumps or drops. all this with the original cst tire on it too haha. when the tire was fresh, it was prone to tramlining alot. but after carving on pavement and asphalt for a few hundred miles, even that is going away. i say that because the original cst tire is supposed to be the shittiest tire ever, and if thats the case, i have good feelings about upgrading. but yeah the RS (which is supposed to be the successor to the MSP), has worked out well enough for me edit: some have complained about low pedal clearance though..so thats something to take into account i guess. with that, there are higher pedal hangers that can be used, but again, ive had no issue with riding on dirt trails full of roots and twigs or mud (no deeper than 1") or grassy trails. i think its more about tackling the obstacles along the way in the manner you think your tire on any euc can handle + personal skill level.
  10. i think the solution could be simpler. and im sure many have already stated this, but just in case: why not just build eucs with flame retardant coatings over all the battery packs? alternately, in lieu of relying on better build by the manufacture, we could just do it ourself, just as those who rely on silicone and...gorilla tape for all repairs and waterproofing. @314ka4y, @Hsiang what are your thoughts on a UL94 V-0 rating? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94 i ask because i believe i have seen a few products that have this rating and are actually aerosol or liquid products that can be used to coat the entire battery pack. i work for the govt and have to do annual fire safety and evacuation training myself, but i dont know the safety ratings off hand as its more a tertiary role for me at work, but..... flame retardant coatings that anyone can do at home for their battery packs, like some aerosol, is going to be a far better product than a few stickers imho. and if its good enough for an actual car...then surely you can see where i am going with this
  11. i think they sell reasonably priced GPS trackers that you can stick in there, and monitor via phone. the handlebar you refer to is completely hollow inside. the entire shell can be split in half at its seams. dont make that mistake of locking your euc using the handle*...thieves would be happy with you if u did lol if youre in a good neighborhood, yeah i guess you could run a chain through the rim to lock it up. but a good portable grinder tool from some hardware store will only take like 10 seconds to cut through any chain or lock that fits into the rim. otherwise, curious thieving types may just mess your shell up, crack it, while trying to take it. so even if you protect it briefly, it might still become deadweight. maybe the fiberglass armor sold by EUCYOU on instagram (thats not too colorful) could be a discreet addition to your euc gear also. but maintaining line of sight to your euc, and the gps trackers to your phone, and shell protection would serve you well. if youre really in need, you could try to put it in some kind of plastic bag covering and hide it behind some bush or garbage or something lol. but it depends where you are trying to do this....and im not really advising that
  12. contact them and ask. https://www.ewheels.com/returns-and-warranty/ i personally did open my wheel up, with the understanding that worst case scenario: the warranty did void.
  13. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378775320309186 Good read for comparison of the two batteries. My takeaways are: The 21700 are larger, meaning each cell has more of the same material that is used in the 18650. To address equivalency, they tested 4 cells in parallel of the 21700 ("4p"), with "6p" of the 18650. More material in each cell tho, means more heat generated means more heat dissipation required means potentially less waterproofing means eucs with 21700 packs may be less waterproof, while 18650 eucs COULD be designed to be more waterproof (less ventilation required vs the 21700 builds) The resistance mentioned (internal impedance) is just regarding the materials used for the electrolyte within each battery(cell), and the materials of the cathode and anode plates (positive and negative terminals used for each cell). But all the factors were taken into account to again: establish equivalency compared to the 18650. All i really see is that despite the equivalence, more material in each cell means more heat from each cell, which they may try to mitigate by SPACING them further apart and that is where they may use long wire lengths or longer metal connecting plates between the cathode/anodes of each cell. And again, those wires and connecting plates could create a problem if they are cheaper or dont match the same parameters as the plates used for the actual cathode/anode of each cell (this is where resistance/impedance CAN play a role). edit: i also dont know if the cold is so bad. I have a RS (high torque) that i ride everyday. I ride in 28-31°F weather (below freezing/0°C basically), doing 18-35 mph, at 20-24mph avg. (32-38 kmh), i do about 25 miles everyday and have abt 50-60% battery left
×
×
  • Create New...