Nekko

Sorry to hear that! Curse of the brand new wheel I messed up on my Mini as well, bent the one of the rear metal "blades" lol. That wheel looks awesome to ride. Power of the EX30 and possibly then some combined with lower center of gravity. I kinda got my Mini out of necessity for lack of a functioning wheel to commute with at some point but now I love it and I totally get people liking the geometry of the commander (still love the EX30 though).

Hi, Thanks for the great pic. It seems that the trolley handle is longer than on the OG CP and thus more practical and efficient to use. Is that the case? Also are the stock trolley handle and rear bumper metal or plastic?

Hi FarkyJ, I haven't tested the street tire and it's really up to individual taste but the off-road tire is great in my opinion plus one huge advantage according to me is that it is much less prone to piercing which leaves you statistically speaking with much less occurrences when you'll have to change or fix your inner tube. Plus the tires last much longer... By no means a small perk in the long term. For the pads, a good option price wise follows. Regardless of the relatively modest price, they're awesome and I love them. Provide great control, excellent built quality and protect your wheel as well : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002752827298.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.32.6daf49d0D0vITH&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.362094.0&scm_id=1007.40050.362094.0&scm-url=1007.40050.362094.0&pvid=f4c0e7a2-b0d5-4627-a0ae-338cbeea1365&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.362094.0,pvid:f4c0e7a2-b0d5-4627-a0ae-338cbeea1365,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238108%231977&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!108.42!108.42!!!116.51!!%402103850917012436566472866efb65!12000027573581438!rec!FR!703076324!

A little update on the waterproofing of the Mini : have ridden it for about an hour under very heavy rain to heavy rain the other day and no problem whatsoever. One odd thing though : my Mini only charges up to 132,9V and I haven't been able to charge it higher with the stock charger so far (haven't tried with another charger). Voltage as measured by Darkness bot and EUCworld.

Yes, velcro I did replace Lol and pads I use are my preferred pads, I threw the included pads away but then again I did the same with other wheels.

Hi FarkyJ, Have commuted under rain a couple of time (about 45 mn commute), no problem. Haven't had the opportunity to test heavy rainfall yet but given my past experience and seeing how the wheel is built, I would say there are very few if any weak point and they can easily be remedied, which I haven't even bothered to do seeing the build quality (in the case of my first batch Master, I siliconed the battery cases as a point of reference). The design is such that I haven't seen any obvious weak point for the water to get in. Maybe the bearings but you can fairly easily apply marine grease (I did to my Master, might do it to the mini before winter).

I heard about shocks leaking problems on the first batch of the commander pro, which It seems has since been solved. It was the reason I ended up getting the Ex30 for Vietnam despite the fact that it was more expensive. I'm glad I did in retrospect because the Ex30 is awesome. The acceleration was very useful to keep up with the circulation in some situations. No leak on the suspension of the mini so far and I find the build quality not just good but great irrespective of the relatively lower price.

I've ridden the mini for a month and a half now. Just update to the latest firmware (you can use EUC world I believe, I can't remember right now what I used) and you'll have tilt back. I know because I accidentally set it to 15km/h and it was tilting back on me as soon as I started going before I realized what was wrong. Also in my experience the suspension is great (points of comparison : Master, EX30). You just have to use the adjusting knobs on top of the suspension rod and also the wrench that is included with the mini to adjust the underlying bolt shaped ring). Be aware that both suspensions rod have to be adjusted the same and to do so you have to use the same numbers of clockwise or anti clockwise rotations from either starting points, be it max or min in both cases, knob and bolt shaped ring. After a bit of adjusting and updating to the latest firmware, my favorite wheel ever for commuting (and that's after 4000km on the EX30 north to south of Vietnam, EX30 being formidable in its own right). I just hope it stays reliable. Great suspension. Adjusting compression and rebound damping did make quite a big difference in my case. You can easily compare between settings when knobs and ring are rotated to the maximum at either end of the spectrum.

Thanks, I actually just need the measurements so I can precut the panels before I leave for Vietnam. I've been using some kind of silicone glue with great success on lots of my wheels so I suspect it might work even on the slippery surface of the battery cases. It's very gooey when just out of the dispenser but hardens after a few hours while remaining kind of springy. And it really sticks to surfaces powerfully. I intend to go from the North to the South of Vietnam and document on YT, putting the EX30 through its paces.

I'd like to make some side panels for my EX3O (can't get the Grizzla panels on time for what I need) and I don't know the measurements I should use to make side panels that would cover both battery cases on either side of the wheel. Can anyone help me? I should clarify that my EX30 is waiting for me abroad for a road trip, still unboxed at my family's where nobody knows about wheels which is the reason why I haven't even asked them to unbox (elderly aunt type of situation).

And I suspect just as good an upgrade if not much better than some of the other solutions that are not high end 250€ + shocks. My detailed description might make it seem like hard work but it really is not once you've procured all the necessary materials. The part that you have to pay attention to is to get rid of the excessive amount of fluid by compressing the shock as far as it will go after you've removed the core of the shrader valve. Too much fluid and it will start acting like a volume spacer itself (because the fluid doesn't compress like air)...which makes me think that maybe all you have to do is adding more fluid, without even bothering with the spacers? You would in that case put fluid in excess on purpose, remove the core of the valve like in the method described above and then compress the shock to drain the fluid but only to the extent that the linkage allows it to compress (having beforehand marked it on the outside with a white marker say...). I bet that would work, maybe even better, lol. No need to pay for the spacers and the silicone even!!! I know for a fact that before I drained the excessive fluid, the shock would not compress as much as it needed to, the excessive fluid acting in effect as a volume spacer. Which reminds me that before I added the new fluid, I made sure I cleaned the Begode fluid thoroughly with mild soap (you don't want to mess the seals with solvent although I think they are silicone) because I wasn't sure how the 2 different fluids would mix together. With this method, we even have now the possibility of exploring the effect of the different viscosities available on the shock and the ride quality.

A rubber belt strap wrench is actually the proper tool but I did not have one and thought I'd try the tape LOL

Lol, no I'm not opening it again but it's actually quite easy to do. The irony is I probably would not have attempted it had my shock not been stuck after something like the 7th ride or so. Also why I can't answer mrelwood too much because I haven't ridden much with the shock in its original state. Nonetheless I can say that the feeling is much better and that the "response" from the shock comes faster. Also yes, you can go down to 150 - 180 psi and hardly bottom out (if even, I could test it again for you guys if you are interested, I'm at 250 right now). It was too plush for my taste at 180 psi, lol. I was riding at 300+ psi before the mod, in the short amount of time that the shock was operational so yes, I did decrease the pressure after I installed the spacers. If you don't decrease the pressure, at 300 psi the suspension stays in the upper position, even when you mount the Master (75-80 kg rider). Ride quality is awesome as far as I'm concerned, and with side pads you can fully exploit the Master's power. Lots of fun to be had (this from previously -and still- riding an RS torque). I thought the shock was done for like what happened to George Go! (see his first shock for EX-30) and I tried to get a new shock from the Begode through the seller. I was tired of waiting and then contemplated getting a new brand name shock but wasn't sure which one would surely fit because of the valve orientation. That's when I tried to twist the shock around in a hail Mary attempt to get it unstuck and realized I could unscrew it. Just insert a screwdriver or any other solid tool that will do inside the upper mounting ring, on the valve side (this will serve as leverage to maintain that part of the shock in place). Get some thick tape and wrap some tape around the body of the shock as unevenly as possible (create wrinkles while wrapping, twist and bend the tape, create small ridges and crevices). This will make it easier to grip the body of the shock to unscrew it open, the body of the shock is too smooth and slick and it's too tightly screwed in at first to easily open. Also increased diameter because of the tape creates more torque ^^ Next unscrew it open (wear latex gloves if needed) and be prepared with a container to let the shock fluid drain out. Et voilà! ^^ It turned out my shock was stuck because a small part of a brown open plastic ring inside was bent and stuck in the lower cylinder. I was able to just cut out the bent part of the ring and use the remaining main part to keep the lower piston sliding properly in its cylinder, just in case you were wondering why my shock seemed stuck in the first place. Opening the upper chamber is not as bad as it sounds, plus you guys have the added benefit to know that it works and actually leads you somewhere, lol.

This is the first time I've installed volume spacers of any kind so I just picked the ones that seem to fit the inside central axis of the Begode Shock best. Because of this, the spacers are kinda loose and I wanted to make sure they would remain in a plane perpendicular to the axis, keeping the shock sliding back and forth freely. I reasoned by doing so I would end up with the same shock, just a smaller chamber and less maximum compression which doesn't matter anyway since suspension geometry doesn't allow full compression. It actually is an advantage since with this setup, as previously explained, the maximum compression coincides with the lowest the pedals will descend on the sliders. I have not noticed any drawback from gluing, and have ridden about 400 km so far with this setup. Silicon glue I used : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B0886KWMF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Let me know how you like it ^^

The volume spacers I used : Fox DPX2 Bottomless Token Volume Spacer Singles or Kit 803-01-251 (224910360956) Pack Size: 0.4in3 S I'm sure there are better options The oil : https://www.probikeshop.fr/rockshox-huile-de-fourche-15wt-120ml/89506.html I have to add that with the described setup (2 volume spacers) the maximum physical compression of the shock coincides with the lowest the suspension will reach (the spacers physically block the shock from compressing further) so that you are guaranteed under normal usage no bottoming out. An adjustment of the quantity of suspension fluid to be added will be necessary. Just add the fluid as you are piecing back together your shock, then remove the Shrader valve core once shock is reassembled, compress the shock to maximum compression, letting the excess fluid leak out through the air valve, then screw valve core back in. Compress (inflate) the shock back to whatever level you prefer and you're in business