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About Surfling

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Asstoria, NY
  • EUC
    KS16X, MCM5 v2, Mten3

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  1. +1 on that! ....some variables to consider; foot size, natural orientation, (pronation, supination), ankle mobilty etc. While it's smart to be diligent and such, no amount of thinking/analyzing can replace feel, mileage and adaptation. Yes, go with what feels most comfortable for YOU - for confidence. It's a progressive process so keep riding and experimenting. You'll get to the point where you'll be adjusting your foot placement on the go with ease. I ride with my heels hanging out more than my toes. I use smaller (mten3 size) pedals on all my wheels. That might change ov
  2. +1 on that! Tire pressure proportional to body weight - more weight, more pressure etc. Low pressure, ~ 20 psi is good for learning stability. Note: keeping the pressure low for a long time (100 miles or so) will wear the tires prematurely. Increase slowly with progress for better response and it's a good way to find the sweet spot. For a cheap ankle protection hack; use high socks and fold them down til they're thick in the ankle area. Shin guards on the starting leg (the one that stays on the pedals) will minimize pain on the shin from learning to mount. Hope that helps
  3. Doesn't look there's enough vertical room there. The headlight and control board is right on top of the wheel arc. They both get pretty hot so any debris intrusion can be critical. I would be hesitant on doing that but you have a better vantage point. Can't help much but good luck on it.
  4. And in case it doesn't work out, I'll recycle that new tire for ya, free-of-charge
  5. The pics posted above are the only cuts I made. No cuts went thru the control board area. I assume you're saying that there's not enough width on the shell. I have not seen the Tesla's innards and shell fitting so can't help there. A pic might be a better visual. Or perhaps, the 3" might be just too wide for the 2.125" designation. (almost 30% increase). Btw, my cuts were minimal and just enough for tire clearance.
  6. I noticed that, too. I think it's just how the shells are made with an Joint "overlap" for sealing. That's just my assumption.
  7. I didn't get to measure radial clearance decrease but: 3" tire has a 15.25" (387.35 mm) OD on the rim inflated at 25 psi. 2.5" tire has a 14.50" (368.30) OD by itself, unmounted. Would have been better if I measured it inflated on the wheel but it shouldn't be that far off. I'd safely assume a ~15mm increase in diameter. 'hope that helps...
  8. Good point... Tho, I noted they all seem to be smaller than labeled ; the stock tire was only 2.3 and the CYT only 2.74. at the same 25 psi tire pressure. I've seen this with mountain bike tires as well. Looks like a common sales tactic. So, that CST is more likely undersized, too. I also like that tread pattern - maybe better grip as pointed out by @EMA I'd say, it's not a pricey gamble if you're willing to put out patience/time and perhaps learn a new skill. You'll def like the way it rides with the wider tire.
  9. Don't underrate your skills, bro! You'll be rewarded by how the wider tire handles. I'd personally give all the credits to @houseofjob for leading this.
  10. I wasn't asked but did this same mod recently on my MCM5 v2. Posted at the bottom of this thread - https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/24468-mcm5-initial-review/?tab=comments#comment-385281 Cut the inner shell about 20mm for tire height and about 5mm on each side for clearance Only needed to cut about 5mm off the side walls of the shiny top cover. I got about 2mm tire height clearance. I used a Dremel with a router bit. Here's some pics. P.S. - V1 needs more higher/deeper cuts as mentioned by @houseofjob earlier on page 1 here.
  11. +1 on the MCM5 Compared to the 16s, the MCM5 v2 has a wider 2.5 tire, more stable and will even be better if upgraded to 14 x 3 (which also makes the OD close to 16"). MCM5's torque makes it more responsive in braking and acceleration. Gives a confident ride - more fun. I rode a friends 16s briefly last year. Any wheel with less than 2.5" wide tires doesn't do it for me, anymore.
  12. @littlebigmac If you're good with electronics and some soldering skills, it should be a doable project. I'm also planning to do this the next time I open my 16x along with other planned mods. I suggest just buying white LED pods instead of modifying spare tail light assemblies. I have some leftover 12v white LED pods from a recent car project and they're bright enough at 5v. Got them at amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B8P4MNY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Tho, I haven't really delved into this project yet and need to do more searches on othe
  13. Center concave is 5/8" and raised edges are 1 7/8". @Underthebag Just use the private messaging here.
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