Mark Frey

Ok so reason is no need for the C+ obviously is because B+ serves same purpose anyway.

Charge stop is totally different and the new version also has this P- that the old version doesn't have. Old version has the two small black and two red that must be the old version charge stop and balancing between packs

That newest version doesn't have a C+ even and it must be a board that has not been soldered yet except for the charge stop wire

That is the black wire so the red wire is not used anymore because is part of the B+ discharge. But why is no wire going to to the C+?. So I just forget about the red charge since is connected to discharge B+. I need to take out the motherboard of newer version and look

So obviously I would have to cut the wires and reattach or solder them or desolder the connectors. Or I could possibly just add another plug in that would be inserted as an adaptor to allow for either and that way could use the batteries for all the wheels off and on. Hopefully the wires are color coded and anyway I have to check it all out closer and see.

I guess but I thought it had the two pin connectors and not the tri the newer version rs has that I got from alien ride. I bought it for 1000 without a battery. I was going to use the extreme bull commander batteries but they have the two pin connectors . I will check again. I wanted to use the three battery packs from the exn to put into the Nicola that had room for three packs. The Nicola I also got from alien rides has the mt 60 three pin as does the rs. I think the exn also has the ex 60 2 pin . Am aware I have to make sure the batteries are same charge. And matching each others charge. I was also wanting to just use the bull commanders four packs and putting two in the rs and two in the Nicola since is not necessary to have three battery’s at times. Basically I wanted to just be able to connect the two pin ex 60 into the three pin mt60 in both the nic and the rs. So it must be true the newer way they charge is to have it charge into the same mt60 used as the discharge? I know this is sounding confusing but am sort of nervous about doing it if am not totally sure what am doing. But I do think the exn is a old version ex60 2 pin . I will check it out again . So anyway the third negative ground of mt60 tri pin would go ? Would it go to the old version ex30 negative charging terminal and the positive just going to the positive discharge of the mt60. ? Tri pin? Yea I know this is sounding really complicated. I am assuming the newer version is using the same positive discharge for charging also.

I guess the white 3rd cable (charging negative) would have to be moved. And but where would it go if was to be made a two plug connector? Does the new generation actually just charge through the discharge terminal. ? It seems it must since is no xt30 for charging. Is just the white third cable charging negative. Obviously it won’t be charging while it is discharging. Basically I would have to disable white 3rd cable and hook it to the other xt 30 old generation . And ok I just need to review it again. I could solder a new mt60 and have a hybrid setup where could do an old generation or a new and be able to plug and play. So I would have to do a redesigned charging that incorporated the old gen xt30 charging plug into the newer mt60 that appears to be using the same discharge positive to charge. Yea sorry for being so dumb but what would be the exact plan to do this? Should I just add a custom mt60 that transformes into a txt60 two plug? What would be the ideal way to pull it off ?

Ok yea I was away for awhile and was sort of dumb acting but basically was trying to figure out how to get the three pin connector to adapt to the other style two pin since I bought these two from alien rides ..a Nicola and a rs high speed without batteries and wanted to use my exn or an extreme bull commanders batteries that have the two pin into the three pin of the newer nikola and the rs. Thanks though I am going to try and figure it out but have to obviously do a splice of some sort. I just have to know exactly what wire is what . I have to carefully study it again.

Can these same batteries be used in the mt60 tri version connectors of the begode rs?

How many miles on it originally before fresh batteries? What year is it and do thos batteries have the tri connectors? Are the litec the ones that have LT instead of just L witch are the bad batteries? I know Samsung are the high output and longer life cycle. Is LT the 500 cycle roughly life span compared to the 300 for the Bad L type ? Aren’t these the moderate riding type/

How do you explain that mine has never had this issue again and is going on almost a couple years ago I felt the same thing a couple of times but it then went away for no reason. I just kept riding and calibrated it and just totally forgot about it till did read this post. It remains a mystery and my wheel is running perfect. I thought it had developed static electricity from rolling at first but later it is true i recalibrated it since pedals were way off level. I was wondering how often yours actually was doing this. And did it run normal then ? And if so how long did it run normal before doing it again and in what conditions ? Yea I know it is a irritating like grinding ratcheting as if yea ..a sensor is causing the electricity to oscillate between two magnets or something.. not totally sure but it is amazing I never had that again to this day.

There was someone who wrote about this before and it might of been you but they never had the wheel apart but were just asking about the reason for the vibration shuddering . I had wanted to reply but couldn’t get logged in to forum. But yea I was really interested in this phenomena exactly since mine did it. Has nothing to do with pinning the stator. It is a mystery . Was wondering if yours was doing that chronically or if did occur on occasion. Mine never did it again and has been over a year and a half or more. And I ride it a lot

I thought it was static electricity arcing in some way . It was like the motor made a different noise and a vibration and made me spooked and then it was working again. It was just this one time and another time after I had climbed a very long steep mountain and the ride down it did that again a few times and I got worried. But yea I thought to calibrate it with the app and never have seen this again and have forgot about it and I ride it everyday still just thrash it . This was a long time ago.

I thought it had something to do with static electricity buildup at one time but is true the pedals were calibrated way back and not level and this I think was the reason..that the hall sensor was at the limit or something and trying to do its thing but was too far out of level. Not sure but I thought this was it.

I had mine do this a low speed a few times a long time ago. Once when coming off mountain and once when on road going medium and was a odd like what seemed electrical that wasn’t a cut out obviously but shuddering and it would then go away. And I had it happen a few more times and I assumed it was a out of balance tilt back or not have it calibrated since it happened coming off the hill with much decompression and I did recalibrate it and to be honest I have never had it happen again and the wheel is great. It is nothing like a cutout but is this like grinding that seems the motor is doing an reverse type oscillation as if trying to slow down and almost sounds like a grinding but I feel it is purely an electrical fluttering . Yea I was trying to write about this awhile ago but wasnt signed in. I had disconnected my lift switch a long time ago. But this I think has something to do with being totally not calibrated since I did calibrate it and have never seen this again. Yea am not sure though.it is a great wheel still and yea that was weird.