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osi

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    AZ
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    z10, v8f, e

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  1. ikik, its too little too late for this wheel. I made a tutorial anyways of how to get inside the pack and what balancing cells entails for people that are curious or considering this wheel but are scared of the battery bricking itself: Its really not that bad of a process, taking maybe 20 minutes to get inside once the pack is out. Hardest part is getting access to the balance terminals to charge the cells.
  2. I would try contacting @mrn762 on telegram. you should be very direct and concise when asking for help, as there's a language barrier and he's quite busy. Good luck!
  3. The z10 will just tiltback at 80% pwm then beep if you push past the tiltback. Quite and awesome system imo, because I can ride confidently knowing I'm not overpowering the wheel if I feel it start tilting back. I do think a predictive tiltback would be cool, where it detects that if you keep accelerating at the same rate, you'll hit power or speed limit in less than a second( or some other time frame), so it preemptively tiltsback to save you. This would be a deltaPWM tiltback where it's not tilting back based on PWM but how fast PWM is changing.
  4. I could sell you a 4 amp medium speed charger for 50. It'll charge the wheel in about 4 hours and is safe to use with a stock z10. Dm me
  5. The Z10 is concise and dense. I like how the tire is exposed on it and how its shorter than most other wheels on the top, doesn't extend too far above the wheel. It packs a punch for its size too, which is awesome. Its handle is also one of if not the best, very comfy to grip and lug it around when needed. I wouldnt mind a bunch of Z series wheels that look like the Z6/8/10
  6. Yeah they need to make a new wheel, the Z10 is awesome but as time goes on it'll become more and more outdated. it would be nice to see more players in the game
  7. A bit of warning, after looking up data sheet for the cells it seems the max recommend charging temp is 45c, so expect some increased degradation at best and increased battery fire risk at worst if charging a lot at elevated temperatures. I assume it should be fine, the cutoff is low enough where thermal runaway shouldn't happen, but to be safe never leave z10 unattended while charging, should be done anyways but even more so with this mod installed and used. I would recommend a small portable desk fan that can be used to provide cool airflow over wheel and avoid charging outdoors in high temps. For reference the max recommended cell discharging temp is 60c, I've ridden my z10 battery at 60c, and it regens/brakes fine at those temps, so it must not be that unsafe.
  8. I've tested this with batteries at 60c, they wont start charging. They resume charging once both reach 54c, and will stop charging if they reach 57c. amazing work!!!
  9. I have tested this with my batteries at 45c and 48c, and they start charging when plugged in, thank you so much! Will test higher temps and maybe cutoff temp later.
  10. I bought an e and within 2 days It broke while riding, I was braking really hard and it cutout at like 2mph, i stepped off and it shuddered for 20 seconds. After that it shutoff and wouldn't turn on, and motor was rough. Left it outside overnight and then the next day took it apart. To my surprise everything looked fine. Once inside I learned: - wheel would boot up fine with motor unplugged and connected to bt. - motor spun freely by hand when unplugged from mobo -with everything off and motor unplugged, the motor wires green and blue were shorted on mobo when tested with multimeter So I replaced all the mosfets with slightly high spec'd ones, they're rated for 80v 100A instead of 75v 75A, so hopefully they will be less likely to pop. STM STP100N8F6 The originals were HEXFET ® Power MOSFET 75NF75 for reference. The wheel works great now!
  11. Still need help with your e+? Does motor spin freely when off?
  12. I agree with this mostly, but he did already purchase a replacement board which would let him directly replace the component. There are ways of identifying a components properties, especially if you have access to a working board.
  13. Yeah it's a real bummer support isn't available and they make it hard to fix stuff. I think you have a real good chance of repairing the old board though, if it's just that one component that's fried. Do you know how to solder or have friends that do? Maybe even look for microsoldering and soldering electronics repair services (3rd party apple shops can do this sometimes). You can bring them old board and new board, and they can either find a replacement component for a few cents or swap over the component from the new board.
  14. Sadly the z10 wont simply accept a replaced mobo, you need someone to reflash it with the old serial number or something. The new mobo sees that it's not paired with anything in the wheel and refuses to run.
  15. The z10 uses two 15s batteries in parallel. Each pack should be at 55v. If they are at 25v, they are very dead. the cells maybe busted, at the very least they're degraded if you manage to recharge them.
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