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mark321

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  1. Thanks, I loaned mine out to a friend so haven't been using it, but I might see how it feels with eco mode. I like strong acceleration, just I want to be able to control it smoothly. I don't always want to ride at top speed also, and the speed control is hard to keep steady below the max. The cruise control is okay, but even holding the speed steady for the 5 seconds or whatever it takes to kick in is challenging
  2. Mine is the EX version. I figured a tiny bit of extra weight wouldn't hurt. I really think if it weren't for the lack of throttle control I'd be willing to look past the other faults as being minor. It's a short distance light weight EV, so being kind of low in power is forgivable. And to be fair about the folding mechanism I don't have any quality complaints about the latch. It seems solid and works. I mainly just dislike the throttle. I haven't ruled out scooters for future EV considerations, but I am a lot more skeptical now and will be more careful next time. I've alway thought the zboard was cool (an e-skateboard that doesn't need a hand controller). But I suspect if I really wanted to replace the scooter with some other small EV I'd pick one of the smaller EUCs at the moment.
  3. This review is probably bordering on "off topic" since it's a review of a scooter not an EUC, but I'm including a little comparison vs my old KS14 and current KS18 so I figured it might be okay. Anyway I had been wanting something small and light for short distance rides, as carrying my 45# KS18 around can be a chore. At 25# I expected the scooter to be super easy to carry around. The other reason I picked the zoom stryder is its solid rubber wheels: I wanted an electric vehicle that would never have a flat. Unfortunately overall my experience is that the scooter doesn't remotely compare up to the EUCs. I don't want to be all negative, so I'll start with its good features, as there are a number of things it does well: * its rubber tires and suspension are great : at 16-18mph or so the handling is very road worthy even on bad roads -- at this speed I don't see any reason for pneumatic tires, the advantage of never having flats is easily worth having the ride not be as smooth as it could have been with air filled tires. The size and width of the tires, and the way the suspension works are all very well done * at 25# it's decently light for an electric vehicle with 15-20mi range (I haven't carefully tracked what real world range I can get) * the handlebars fold down nicely, some of the smaller scooters don't fold as completely and leave the handlebars sticking out to the sides, I appreciate that this one folds about as small as is possible Aside from the above, I have lots of criticism for virtually everything else about the scooter: * the throttle control is nonexistent, it's basically just on/off : no matter how carefully I press the throttle it just surges forward, the lever has a significant amount of physical range, but none of it is used. Hopefully this isn't too hard to describe, but the first 50% of the throttle does nothing, the next 25% is the only "control" available, and the last 25% is indistinguishable from the "75%" point. That's really just a long winded way of saying in practical terms it might as well be a throttle "on/off" switch. This one giant flaw ruins the riding experience, especially as someone used to the precise speed control of an EUC * the brakes are equally jerky : mo matter how carefully I press the brake it throws me forward * very low power compared to any EUC : the acceleration is puny, the only thing that keeps the jerks and jolts from the throttle/brake from being unbearable is the fact that it's so low in power the jolts aren't that powerful. It struggles up modest hills. I'm really spoiled by the EUCs, vastly vastly vastly more powerful * needs a better latch controlling the fold : there's a weird foot-button you have to step on while simultaneously pushing the handlebars forward to be able to fold the scooter, it's very awkward and error prone * on/off button came loose : this one is hard to describe without a picture, but the way the buttons are constructed is there are holes with a piece of rubber that sticks out of the hole. At some point I must have brushed my hand sideways across the power button, and the rubber piece popped out. I was able to get it back in but I'm now always concerned about how delicate the on/off button is * at 25# it's still not super light : I was really surprised that 25# wasn't as fantastically light as I expected. I'm used to carrying a 45# EUC up and down the stairs, but I think maybe the shape of an EUC makes it more manageable for a given weight. Even though it has a nice fold, I still find its size and bulk a bit unwieldy. I think a 35# KS14 equals or beats it in terms of carrying and stashing it when not riding The conclusion is that I never ever ride the scooter. Now no matter how short the ride is I just carry my heavy KS18 because it's so much better of a ride.
  4. Since I've been carrying around a 45# 18" kingsong, anything 22# or less seems like it would be gloriously tiny and easy to carry. Admittedly smaller is probably better for this usage, and the IPS i5 is interesting. I guess it's 14", but with a thin tire? Anybody know which is more road worthy between the Mten3 and the i5? It sounds like the Mten3 has more torque and a wider wheel, while the i5 has greater diameter. For Mrd777, is it the just the weight of the board that makes you prefer it over the Mten3 for the mixed mode trips? Independent of the weight how do you feel about the road worthiness of the skateboard vs the Mten3? I don't really like the idea of those platforms you have to set your feet on for the zboard, but reviewers claim it's easy to get used to and works. The zboard at least has 97mm wheels and 38" deck length which makes it large-ish I think
  5. My main ride is a KS18b which is very fast and capable. It works well on its trips, but I find I rarely use it for mixed mode transportation. For that I'd like something very small and light, and it wouldnt' have to have the extensive speed and range of a KS18b to work as a last mile range extender for use with other transportation options So opinions on what are the best options for that? EUC and non-EUC ideas are all welcome High on my list is the Mten3, at 22# that would be super easy to carry around, and it has way more speed and range than I'd need for last-mile kind of use. But how road worthy is it over cracks and pot holes? I wouldn't want something that's too hard to ride even if it is for short distances Another EV I've always been intrigued by is the zboard2. They're also light with good speed and range, but I have zero skate board experience. Can skate boards with tiny little wheels like that navigate rough roads? Anybody have experience with the zboard or any of the other balance-sensing skateboards? I like the idea of not having to use a hand controller like most electric skateboards require. I'm not totally opposed to considering scooters, the kind with handles that fold, but I am somewhat biased against them, they're generally just not as cool
  6. Thanks for the info about how the KS makes its decisions about warning beeps / tilt back. I'd prefer the beeps came a little later, just a little before tilt back, but it's not bad this way. About the trolley handle, I forgot to include that in my review. I have the same question. So far I haven't been able to get one, but I do want one. Despite how tall the KS18 is, it's still short enough it's awkward to trolley it around with no handle, I have to walk kind of hunched over. It's okay for a very short distance like crossing the street maybe, but any further than that and I'd like to have a real handle. I really hope it's just a matter of time.
  7. I recently upgraded from a KS14c (800 W, 680 Wh) to a KS18b (1200 W, 1680 Wh) (from ewheels). The most dramatic difference is the ability to more easily navigate rough sections of pavement. On the KS14 a nearby road required me to slow down to walking speed, and I'd wobble over each crack as the rough section of road stretched on endlessly. On the KS18 I only slow to maybe 10-12mph for the same road. I feel pretty stable and stress free, and the rough section is over before I know it. I think it's worth noting that not only is there a diameter difference between the two wheels, but also a width increase: 14" x 2.125" 18" x 2.5" which is probably partly responsible for stability as well. I've taken both EUCs out with a group of cyclists. On the KS14 I often felt like I was running a high risk of a crash due to the speeds at which I was trying to navigate road hazards. On the KS18 it was fairly stress-free to keep up. On some roads I still had to drop to a lower speed than the bikes to navigate the cracks, but I didn't have to slow to a crawl, and I would catch back up easily. Overall as a transportation option the KS18 is a clear winner over the KS14. I set the warning beeps for 0,0,36,40 so I get my first warning at just over 22mph, which is as fast as I've ridden it. It may be capable of 25mph but I don't feel safe much over 22mph. I'm not sure if it's a difference in how "in control" I feel or if it's the fact that I've had a couple painful crashes on the KS14 that have made me more cautious. But so far I'd say speed wise that 18mph feels prett slow and boring, 20mph is comfortable, and 22mph is a bit scary. Something about the KS18 keeps me from leaning as hard into it as I used to on the KS14. So my acceleration isn't nearly as great, or at least doesn't feel as high anyway. It is fast and certainly doesn't take long to reach high speeds though. It has a lot of power, but the reactions and responsiveness all feel slower than the KS14, I can't say for sure that it's not just a difference in how aggressively I ride the two wheels, but so far my acceleration (and braking) feel noticeably more gradual than the KS14. I wonder if the higher pedal height makes it harder to shift my weight out in front or behind the wheel. I won't write a long description of the old kingsong's confusing bluetooth controls, but the new one is much better. There is only one button, and it turns on/off both the wheel and the bluetooth together. Other controls are in the app. I love being able to turn off the voice (no more shouting "hello kingsong!", "bluetooth connected!", or "please decelerate"). And I like setting the lights to "always on" too for increased visibility. Although disabling the "hello kingsong!" voice prompts also seems to disable bluetooth for playing music (they need to implement that differently). The KS18 is heavy, but I have no trouble carrying it up and down stairs, The size can occasionally be a concern: when I tried to go shopping I couldn't fit the KS18 in a stable position under the cart. The wires of the shopping cart form a kind of "bowl" shape under the cart that the KS14 fits inside of, while the KS18 rests on top of the bowl where it just slides off. I'm going to have to try carrying around some bungee cords to see if that lets me take it shopping. I did take some notes on performance at different states of charge and the distances involved. The total range might be large, but the distance over which it performs optimally isn't as far as I had hoped (especially since this was a "full" charge on a 67.2V charger, not a partial charge on a 64.8V charger that I had planned to use to extend the battery life): As the battery drains, a warning beep starts coming on at slower and slower speeds, possibly in response to the voltage: 0 km : fresh charge, 100%/10bar, 66.2V 55 km (34 mi) : beep @ 31 kph, 56%/8bar, 59.9V 67 km (41 mi) : beep @ 28 kph, 50%/6bar, 58.4V 76 km (47 mi) : beep @ 26.5 kph, 43%/6bar, 57.5V 82 km (51 mi) : beep @ 26 kph, 37%/6bar, 56.9V 86 km (53 mi) : (home) 43%/6bar, 57V Once I'm at mile 35 and the warning beep starts happening around 30 kph it feel like it needs to be charged, despite the KS still showing 8 bars. It may still be capable of higher speeds, but I assume the warning beeps are legitimate and I shouldn't ride beyond the speeds they indicate. Anybody know how conservative the KS is being here? For such a powerful 1680 Wh battery pack I expected the range during which it safely maintains high speeds to be further. I haven't yet tested how far it maintains top-performance if I only charge it at the charger's 64.8V setting to extend the battery life. For what it's worth I weigh 170#.
  8. Is the pack something I'll need to get a professional to reassemble? I expect I can open it and check all the individual cells, but is there any particular method I should use for disassembly to make reassembly easier? Or should I just take everything out and expect to need it reassembled from scratch?
  9. That makes sense that it couldn't possibly be 80V. My multimeter might be too cheap. Now that the EUC is running pretty decently on one battery pack I've loaned it out to a friend so I don't have it to double check right now. But if that 80V (or more likely 67V) output from the first pack was being fed straight into the second pack and the second pack wasn't taking a charge, does that indicate the second pack is toast? If there's a way I can restore the second pack and get the EUC back to full capacity that would be really nice.
  10. That last set of measurements is with everything disconnected, and testing the two packs individually. first pack: input 4V, output 80V second pack: input 1V, output 47V I just now tried removing the second pack and plugging the first pack straight into the EUC, and things look pretty good that way. The EUC shows 10 bars. Is it possible I've been misinterpreting the charger's lack of response and really the first pack is just fully charged, and the second pack is dead? It would be a little disappointing to run it on one pack, but better than nothing. I haven't looked for EUC batteries online yet. I know I saw 840Wh for $600, but that's too steep for repairing an old EUC. Are there sources for getting a 340Wh pack that would be compatible with the KS?
  11. Ah, now that I've opened both sides I can tell a little better where the wires are going. In fact I've just taken both battery packs out. So let me update all the voltages: 1. Input to the battery on the "charger" side: 4V or just under 2. Oupt from that battery: 80V 3. Input to battery on the "power button" side: barely over 1V 4. Output from that battery: 47V If I plug the charger directly into the first pack the charger doesn't respond. I'd try plugging into the second pack directly but it looks like I'd need some kind of adapter for that.
  12. 1: no change, I've unplugged and re-plugged it several times while poking around. So far the charger never responds when plugged in 2: I guess I should upgrade to a digital multimeter to get better detail, but my analog multimeter looks like it's at 2V on the input to the battery. I have left the charger plugged in for several hours on a few different days, including just now. So far no change. 3: So far I've only opened up the charging side, and that battery looks like 47V. I'm not measuring directly at the blue battery output though, the wire goes into the EUC and comes back out where I'm measuring it. I was about to take the battery completely out, but I don't see how to get that wire out. Tomorrow I'll try to get to the battery on the other side 4: I think this is okay because I plugged the charger in and tested the prongs at the connection we were talking about in #1 and got 67V Thanks for your help. I had been assuming some connection had wiggled loose. It sounds like you're saying there's a decent chance the batteries have gone bad?
  13. Oh, and I can still connect my phone to the EUC and the app also reports the battery at either 42v or 47v.
  14. Can anyone advise me on troubleshooting my KS14c? I don't have pictures, but I can describe most of what I tried. First since I have two EUC and two chargers and both work on the other EUC I can assume the charger isn't the problem. Next I checked the voltage coming out immediately after the kingsong's charging plug and it was 67 or so (when plugged into either charger), so that first connection is good I guess. I'm not skilled at tracing these things, but to my eyes it looks like the next place the wire goes is under the blue plastic into the battery pack. On the other side of the battery pack I found what I think are the wires leaving the pack and there the voltage was really low (I forget if it was 42 or 47) and it doesn't change whether the charger is plugged in or not. And although the charger is apparently supplying 67v, the lights on the charger indicate it doesn't think it's plugged in. On my other EUC the charger light would go red until the charge is done. On the bad EUC the light stays green, same as if the charger wasn't plugged in to anything. What else can I measure to identify what might be wrong?
  15. Wow, thanks everybody. I'm impressed that there were so many wide wheel EUC out there that I hadn't seen. I think I'd be willing to trade in a bit of agility for not getting tripped up by cracks as much.
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