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Jeff Earl

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About Jeff Earl

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  • Location
    Brooklyn, NY
  • EUC
    KS-16X, Solowheel Glide 3

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  1. Thanks for the clarification. I too came to the 16X from a V8 (Solowheel Glide 3, to be precise). I agree that the slow turning pedal dip behavior is not particularly problematic. I always assumed that's just how some EUCs work. Please keep us posted on your results with the new control board. I certainly hope that they have identified and permanently fixed the root cause of the random forward tilt at speed. I would definitely not be pleased if I have to swap control boards every 800-1200km. I should probably knock on wood; I've been tilt-free so far...
  2. Now I’m concerned. I hoped that I had simply been fortunate enough to receive a statistically rare, problem-free 16X from the first production batch. I would not have expected that the random tilting issue (as reported by @Mike Paolini and others) would develop over time. To date, I have never experienced the tilting phenomenon—and hope I never do. I have been diligent with installing the system firmware updates; applying them within weeks of public release. And I’ve put hundreds of miles on v1.07, in particular. That said, I never bothered to apply the Bluetooth patch, as I’ve never had a case of the tilts. Now that I’m closing in on the 800km milestone (is kilometerstone a thing?), @buell47 has me worried. Has anyone else developed this malady after hundreds of miles of trouble free service? What kind of components in the control system would be likely to age or wear out over time? Electrolytic capacitors? Mechanical sensors? Are the “solid state” linear rate sensors (gyros) subject to wear? Has KingSong @Micheal Shen put forth any explanation other than the original Bluetooth interference theory (which always seemed dubious to me)?
  3. Behold the amazing UniStand 3000 It's a composite of 1x2 lumber and 3D-printed connectors. You can download my stl flies from Thingiverse if you want to build one yourself. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3922352 Adjust the length of the wooden struts to suit the dimensions of your wheel. For the KS16X above I used six 6" sections of 1x2 and two 9-1/4" lengths for the lower cross-members.
  4. I could probably figure something out. The only challenge is turn-around time. Total print time is like 20+ hours, and I have to print each piece individually. Realistically I'd expect it to be a week or so before I could have all the parts ready to ship.
  5. The UniStand 3000 files are live on Thingiverse. You can grab them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3922352 Hope it works well for you.
  6. Cool. I created a Thingiverse account and uploaded the files. I should be able to publish them after a 24 holding period.
  7. UniStand 3000 Here's my take on a 3D printed stand for EUCs--in my case the KS16X. Inspired by other members of this forum ( @Duf @Garrie Lim @redfoxdude ), I wanted to print a proper stand for my wheel. Unfortunately, my diminutive Trinus 3D printer only sports 12cm x 12cm build plate. Do'h! So I set out to design around the problem and came up with some 3D printed socket connectors paired with struts of common 1x2 (really, 3/4" x 1-1/2") lumber. By adjusting the length of the wood legs and cross-members, you can tailor the stand to accommodate virtually any sized wheel. I think the result is both aesthetically pleasing, and remarkably robust. As the components are all firmly press-fit, there is no need for fasteners or adhesives of any kind (although I suppose you could apply some epoxy if you're the belt-and-suspenders type). Assembly/disassembly takes a mater seconds. The connector pockets are all designed to accept square-cut struts--no need for finicky miter cuts. For the KS16X, I found the following lengths worked well: the 4 legs and 2 upper cross pieces are all 6", the two lower cross-members are 9-1/4" long. If there's interest, perhaps I'll post the connector stl files to Thingiverse; once I figure out how to do so. You'll just need a dimensionally accurate 3D printer, some spare time, and about 5' of 1x2 from your local home center. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3922352
  8. Tire Pressure Monitoring for the 16X After suffering an inconvenient blowout on my Inmotion V8, I thought it might be valuable to have a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) on my new 16X. Perhaps, if I could detect a slow leak I could head off a more disastrous situation down the road. That, and it’s fun to have new toys. So I researched a few inexpensive options and settled on the CAREUD M3 Motorcycle TPMS. It includes two valve-cap pressure monitors and a small, pocket sized USB-rechargeable display unit. It rings up at about $50 US from the usual on-line sources. And you can get it cheaper if you’re willing to wait on slow-boat, international shipping. Truth be told, I wasn't 100% sure the bulbous valve-cap sending unit would actually fit the 16x without dragging against the wheel well, but I figured it was worth a shot. If worse came to worse, I could put it on my Ducati. The initial test fitting was promising, but not perfect. On my 16X, the valve stem naturally flared out from the plane of the rim by about 30 degrees. This was just enough to cause the TPMS valve cap to rub against the wheel’s inner shell in several spots. Not good, but after some experimentation with duct tape and a valve extension tube, I determined that there was reasonable clearance if I could just coax the valve stem to lay somewhat flatter. So I set out to find a reliable method to retain the stem against the rim. My first attempt was to try hot-melt glue judiciously applied in the wheel rim groove to anchor a twist-tie beneath the stem. This was a fast failure. Hot melt just wouldn't hold. I briefly considered an epoxy and zip-tie arrangement, but dismissed it as too permanent and messy. Ultimately, I decided to rig up a 3D-printed anchor that could be retained by an adjacent hub-motor mounting screw. This has the advantage of being easily removable for tube changes/maintenance and it's pretty robust. I got to work with Fusion 360 and my trusty 3D printer. Dozens of iterations later, I produced a part that nicely nestles within the contours of the rim-groove beneath the stem and provides a solid anchor point for a nylon zip-tie. By cinching down the tie, the sending-unit is held well out of harm's way, and the wheel rotates freely in both directions with clearance to spare. So far, this solution has performed flawlessly for me. As for the CAREUD TPMS itself, I have a bit of a mixed review. The user interface/setup process is cumbersome at best, but once configured it seems to work pretty well. The backlit display is clear and readable. The build quality is good for the price. The pressure reading seems to be reasonably accurate (maybe within a PSI or two), but the temperature reads consistently high by at least 5 degrees F. As far as I can tell, there's no way to re-calibrate the sensors. There's also no documented way to disable the second tire monitoring channel. If you don't have a choice of compatible wheels to monitor (not a problem for some of you, @Marty Backe), you'll have to put up with constant low-pressure alerting on the unused channel. The best workaround I discovered is to pair the second sending unit while attached to an inflated wheel, and then remove its battery once the display unit is powered-off. When later powered on, the display will continue to indicate the last-reported data. Then, after not receiving telemetry for several hours, the display unit will replace the last-reported values with blanks and continue to function properly on the active, primary channel. Yay! Now that I know this can work, I think it would be great to integrate a TPMS function into WheelLog @palachzzz @Seba. Although I doubt this particular unit can be integrated via Bluetooth, other vendors peddle Bluetooth, phone-based TPMSs. Imagine tire pressure and temperature data and alerts along with the usual wheel metrics right on your phone or wrist! Other caveats, tips, tricks, notes: You'll need a 4mm ball-end hex key to remove/replace the hub-motor screw without removing the shell. Ideally, you'll remove the shell to get proper purchase on the cap screw, but in a pinch the ball-end tool works Ok. Be sure to clean and reapply proper thread locking compound to the cap screw threads when you mount your anchor. The last thing you need is to have the screw work loose. If you 3D print your anchor with PLA, you'll want to inspect it during you're pre-ride checklist. PLA is not the most durable of materials for exterior use. It might be a good idea to replace it periodically to avoid potential failures. You may want to consider counterbalancing your rim to account for the additional weight of the anchor and sending unit. Although I haven't done so, and can't detect any vibration, I may end up adding a counterweight for peace of mind. Use common sense if you attempts this mod. If you frequently ride in gravely, off-road conditions, this may not be the best idea. Regardless of how well you anchor the valve stem, this does reduce the clearance between the rim and the shell. If debris gets lodged between the rim and the inner shell, the wheel may lurch unpredictably as it tries to overcome the friction. And you certainly don't want to sever the valve cap while riding at speed... While I have no data to back this, I assume you should avoid anti-puncture products like Tire Slime when using a TPMS valve cap. I would think the goop would tend to gum up the works. Let me know if you are interested in the CAD file for my stem-anchor. I'll try to figure out a way to send it to you. (You just have to promise not to be too critical of my amateurish CAD work.) Please note, I have no idea if my design will work as-is on other 16Xs. The dimension between the mounting screw and the valve-stem base is critical. If KingSong isn't using a manufacturing process that ensures dimensional consistency between the valve stem bore and the hub-motor mounting screws, the design will have to be tweaked accordingly. Roll Safe!
  9. @stephen I'm curious if the @Seba v2.0.25 Wheellog app fixed the KS16X battery percentage bug for you. I tried it unsuccessfully. On mine, it was still showing 100% even though the battery voltage was updating properly--very strange. I had to revert back to the Google PlayStore version to get functioning KS16X battery percentage readouts.
  10. I put the CST on mine. Coming from a V8, the stock CX tire was quite unnerving. I had the same issue when mounting the CST--no indication of rotational direction on the sidewall (unless it's in Chinese). I studied pictures of the Nikola and oriented my tire the same way. So far so good. Loving the 16x.
  11. @Mike Paolini Thanks for your excellent reporting on this wheel! I'm curious about the severity of the lingering 15 degree tilt-back issue. Is it extremely violent and disruptive, or is it something you can learn to ride out until it rights itself? I'm familiar with the typical over speed tilt-back on the Inmotion wheels, and although it can sometimes catch you off guard, I've never felt that it introduces a stability issue for me. Do you think the KS16X RTP (random tilt phenomenon) similar, or more pronounced?
  12. @eddiemoy Congrats on the successful tire swap. Good to know that the CST rubber is compatible with the 16X despite the rumors to the contrary. I, for one, would love to know how easy or challenging the disassembly process was. Were you able to reattach the screw-concealing padding without too much marring? Did the internal build quality seem up to snuff? I'm weeks away from my delivery, but I anticipate taking mine apart to see what's what pretty early on. Any and all tips/suggestions are appreciated.
  13. Dang! Sorry I can't join the fun--I have to head upstate to retrieve a kid from summer camp. Have a blast, and wheel safe everyone.
  14. Dang it! Now I'm gonna have to rig up an old-school "boss key" to toggle porn so my wife doesn't get wise. BTW Does anyone know if Febreze suppresses that "new wheel smell"?
  15. Yup. Just like NORAD tracks Santa. Truth be told, mine is destined for the cargo ship--I'm too cheap to pay the speed tax. If there was a way to track the ship in real-time, I'd definitely be glued to some screen 24x7. Especially with that fierce looking @Rehab1 squall bearing down...
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