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Pedro Capitão

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About Pedro Capitão

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    Inmotion V5F (800 kms) | KingSong Ks16s 840Wh (3000 kms, Dec 2019)

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  1. Upgrade 2.02, best upgrade ever for 16s!
  2. That's what I did for 17 eur, I think...! Better than pay 40€ for a similar one from wheels websites.
  3. So if App model says Ks18LH it's definitely a 2200W motor? Or we have to chek the ZX2000W directly in the motor? Can you post a App EUCWorld or KS foto displaying the model when connected to your wheel? Thanks!
  4. Update: Today I did 55 kms ride at night, running average 26 km/h, but first 40 kms at 29 km/h - no problem at all... https://euc.world/tour/586587449733140
  5. @Chriull thanks for your analisys, questions and comentaries - I didn't had time to anwser some of the guys that try to help but I take your and other posts @Seba, @esaj and @mrelwood in consideration - so, sorry for tha late anwser - I think the problem is solved but because of the delay of 2 week (most of the times) I don't know if this is true, but let me share what happend during this days. Riding at 2 days ago: . I did a 22 kms ride, started 57% (+-) battery but the last 2 kms the wheel started to do that problem, low bat displayed and agressive tilt back while riding at 35 bat % (I think) - Dynamic test unsucessfull - I am call it "dynamic" because of the most common way that I realised the problem was the "static" way, as I turn on wheel, put it against the wall and after 5-10 min. it tilts back, red light and "Your battery is low, please charge it" message. Yesterday: . At afternoon, took the wheel for a very shot ride trying to "simulate" the problem at low bat - started 32% bat - finished 15% bat (Euc World at orange bat %) - everything done well with a 6 km ride - Dynamic test sucessfull . At night, open the wheel - everything seem normal as the other 10 times I open the wheel... changed the 2 spare 30Amp fuses (the others are really bend, but Ok, I think!) The fuses were not in the way of charging port - don't really know what could bend that fuses; the wires that seemed damaged cause of some forced applyed during up cover substitution were not damaged but I isoleted some wires with eletric tape and gorila (I think!) tape; Put the wires from power button, lights and charging port of the up cover way of the components in the direction of the front side of the wheel. And... surprise, surprise... the blue wire from the connector that came from the mainboard to the left battery split away from that connector, not from the battery side but from the mainboard side - I think that was the major problem of this KS16S... after some mouths I checked the mainboard soldering but not the wire inside the connectors... This one brocke cause it is short than the one coming from mainboard to the right side battery. The silicone of the wire was OK but I could not realised that inside was a almost brocken wire... I soldered the wire and put it back to the triple wire connector. As the wire has been shorten I put it near the "front side" of the mainboard instead over the battery. . At night, charged batteries - original KingSong 4Amp "fast" charger - took 3,5h but I decided to leave another 1/2h to balance very well the cells (don't know if it'is usefull?!?!) Today: . rainy day and with some patience I did a dynamic test ride of 10 kms inside my home... yes it is true... I am tyred now cause of the short range of ride, speed up, slow down and so on, but NO Problem At All, so... problem solved (I think!) - I just can believe after 15 days of normal riding and no issues cause of what happend the other 10 times I open the wheel - everything ok for 1 or 2 weeks normal riding and after that came the problem again. In this 10km test the battery stays better than before 97% bat left after riding 10 kms... never happend before 67,1V (full) dropped to 64,71V and remaing mileage 74 km (when full charge) 72,6 kms (after 10 kms). I weight 64 kg but pushed some times to 1100w on sudden starts... so... for now PROBLEM SOLVED! Thank to you guys, so thank you once more @Chriull, @Seba, @esaj and @mrelwood. This wheel is flying, chao yang 2.125 tire, firm 2.01, EUC World, Pebble watch, Met Parachute and... Covid protection mask! Note: I'll give you some feedback when possible and when justifies!
  6. Today I'll try to check the fuses and damaged cable, I'll reporte how it goes! I focus just the components on the middle of the mainboard that are a kind of yellow and lose the varnish protection...
  7. Yes, I see. Nice consideration... Im refering that too at @Chriull questions / considerations. I have 2 speared fuses that I can replace and try to see if pcb nearby lanes are damaged too... My main question is if the problem was battery related issue - I really like this wheel but I don't want to spend 700€ or so in 840Wh batteries... probably I would prefere by a new wheel as an upgrade, maybe a similar but more confortable, the KS 18L (not XL, cause of the weight). That's my dilema! ...or to solve the problem buying another ks16s mainboard... I remember that could be also other issues, if you observe the right componentes in mainboard picture they are with a yellow color and seem that they lose the isolation layer and can be causing gyro causing this issue too! Thank you very much, @Seba for your effort
  8. Hi, trying to awnser all questions / considerations: Some temporary short curcuit of the motor wires (bad insulation), especially were they enter the axle (but should not have any relation to your touching the charge plug) I don't think so motor wires are well protected, in place and should do the proble all time when riding and not sometimes - after the problem I can ride the wheel safelly and fast for 50 km - for many times this ocured Inverter failure (mosfets, control logic) Both should be seen in the log by high currents while tjis failure occurs. Don't know - I believe not - the wheel is 1200w motor / 3000w max I pushed hard yesterday to 26Amps, briefly high hills - It's OK Without high currents it should be some supply connection prob? No, charge is a 4 Amp - for 840Wh bat is not considered a fast charger - 0,35C, I think! Already charged 2 or 3 times with borrowed 2 Amp charger - does exactly the same. Btw - if this happens while driving are there any balancing problems? Yes it happens but I cannot show you, I tryed to get a possible log on last rides but usually I don't ride logging the ride, but I must do that from now on. While riding and the problem starts it does a agressive tilt back caused by the drop in voltage (I think) showing red light and refering 0% bat. In this case I turn off and on the wheel the leds goes green (no matter if the %bat was in 100% or 50% or even 20%) and the problem can occur again 2, 4, 5 times (in 5 ou 10 min. riding) it depends, but after that I can ride without problems for 50 kms. Let me try to sumarize some previous questiions: Can you power on the wheel while opened? Yes, leaving the board in place cause of the gyro that is keeping wheel leveled and put the up cover to the side, like in photo. Then you could carefully move single wires and look for malfunctions. If there are bad connections, they are most probably covered under the insulation/heat shrink tubing. Already did that, but I need to do with eyes wide open - I'm not a specialist in eletronics but I know the basis. As you say the buttons and cover are brand new - the probs started after you exchanged them? No, the new cover was give to te by a friend to mislead problem As @Seba already noted - the fuses are bend. So some "severe" force could have been applied to the board and some components... I think that too, but I could not realised if I did something wrong another time before I changed de up cover, when I replaced the tire, for example. Cracks in the tracks of a pcb are hard to find and can cause quite anything (heat dependend loose connections) Your "pushing/touching" the charge plug is strong enough to produce by the cover some force on the mainboard? No, the video shows just a slightly touch does that Imho the board operates without the buttons/charge plug connected! One just needs to short for a moment the connector of the power button to start the wheel. So you could test the wheel without the ?newly attached components? - but be carefull and know exactly what to do! Shorting the wrong connector/wires can easily lead to disaster! I would like not to do that cause I don't know how to short the right wires/connectors. Edit: Ps.: The button/charge plug part seem to be exactly above the bent fuses? Maybe the new parts are not properly fitted and apply constant force on the mainboard? So slightest touching/vibrations/whatever cause malfunctions? Yes, very true... could be that problem... thera are just one reason to the bent fuses - they are just aligned in the charging port place... Very usefull you questions and considerations, sorry for my English, I hope you understand all awsers. I appretiated very much. Thanks!
  9. I notice that before but they always been like this - I brought this wheel from 2nd hand and I ride at least from August 2019 till started the problem, lets say 2000 kms without issues... Some days ago when I was inspecting wires and capacitors they seem very solid related to solder and capacitors seems in good shape, not in oval shape (don't know how to say this) but the problem seems to occur between a 22º-25º C - after that temperature everything stays alright - it's solder again because raising the temperature to a better level... could be! I have to inspect the board again... However today it was possible to register the csv log while the problem occurred (touching charging port) for a short period of time but not during the riding. I made a video showing EUCWorld too. EucWorld8Mai2020_bat_drop_to_22percent_small.mp4 2020-05-08 120727.csv
  10. Does anybody knows what is this 2nd battery wire?
  11. I think that too, mainboard is causing the problem and is very weird. Yes the battery connects to mainboard and there are other wire and connector to charging port. The upper buttons and cover are brandly new. Picture supplied
  12. Nice ride, the problem not happened, but I'd like share the CSV log from Euc World 2020-05-07 213003.csv
  13. Ok, Seba, thanks for help in advance probably I could not catch csv log when the problem goes cause is a kind of random... I'll go for a ride and try. For example, yesterday It happend in the morning for 5 min and It was Ok the rest of the day... let me see how it goes.
  14. The touching of the wheel part was done to make the video, cause at that time I could not simulate the problem, I mean, sometimes I power on the wheel and after 5-10 min or so the wheel start saying "Your battery is low, please charge it" from nothing - goes tilt back, flashing red lights and without touching anything the light get green (bat ok) but still in tilt back position til I restarted. I restart one time or 5 times, depends, the lights gets green and I can ride 50 kms or so! Never seen nothing like that... Trying to correct situation, I open the wheel and do a wiring check, close the wheel panels and I can ride 1 or 2 weeks without the problem... after that the problem get back again... I thought something related to wiring buttons from the upper cover, wiring could touch or interfering with something but can not be cause, again, I can ride normally from 1 or 2 week and after that the problem cames again...
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