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Everything posted by OhPardonMe

  1. For those who come after me. As mentioned, the new Gotway control boards come with fins on the bottom of the heat sink. Apparently, Gotway added a hole in the inner shell to allow these fins to vent to the outside. Older revisions of the Nikola do not have this hole. I used a dremel to recreate this and weather sealant and my overheat issues have completely resolved. Wheel is running cool as a cucumber now.
  2. I recently received and installed the latest gen 100V Nikola Control board to help alleviate overheat issues I have been having with my old board that was capped at 65C, as the new boards have increased this upper temperature threshold to 79C. Got everything hooked up fine and verified all functions, including the fan are still operating as expected. Unfortunately, and rather ironically, what I am seeing is that the new board is running pretty significantly hotter than it's predecessor. On a short, cool night ride not even topping 20mph the board gets to and hovers around over 50C where the old one would be around 40C tops. I did this ride with my buddy who was on his 2500W MSP and his board never topped 38C. I know it's not quite apples to apples here but something definitely seems off. Does anyone have experience with these latest boards? I am wondering if maybe there is an updated cooling configuration on the new Nicola's and the 12V fan no longer cuts it? Old board schematic New board schematic
  3. Looks like the 1800wh version from the pics. I was confused at first because I didn't think the 1600wh version corresponded to the 100V wheel.
  4. Well, I'm more toying with the idea right now. It appears like it would be super easy to adjust the charger to periodically charge it to 100%. Unfortunately, I tried adjusting both knobs and couldn't get the voltage to go below 102.9V so I guess it doesn't matter either way.
  5. Hi all, I have a standard 100V 3A Gotway charger that I want to trim down the voltage on a bit to prevent overcharging because the first mile or so of my normal commute is downhill and I don't want to worry about it. Can someone tell me which of the 2 blue adjustments is the one I want to mess with in order to accomplish this?
  6. Assuming that it is actually an XL and checks out functionally, sounds like a great deal.
  7. Call me Mr obvious here, but I'm assuming you guys tried recalibrating the wheel after installing the new boards?
  8. Not sure what your luck will be finding a used board on here unless someone recently wrecked their wheel, but I don't think you can go wrong with getting a new one from ewheels: https://www.ewheels.com/product/nikola-84v-controller/
  9. Cost of the rim was $145 compared to $300 for a new motor assembly. I was back up and running for $200 with the new tire and tube as well. Definitely worth it. Ewheels seems to have a host of options available. Just check the parts section on their site. I'd arguably say this repair is also easier than replacing the whole motor. No disconnecting cables, only need to remove 1 of the axle shims on the non-wire side. New rim wants to just snap perfectly in place due to the magnets then just simple bolting everything back together.
  10. Ordered and received replacement rim and tire from ewheels. They even went above and beyond and mounted the tire for me (I absolutely hate that part)! I have to say for anyone who is considering this repair vs buying a new motor, it is 1000% worth it. After putting everything back together my unicycle rides better than brand new. Not even on day one was it as smooth as it rides today. I did this repair without needing to disconnect the motor and only removing one axle shim. Ewheels also has a very detailed guide to do the repair as well. Can't recommend this enough for those with dented rims.
  11. Would your auto insurance also cover you for something like this? Not sure how it works outside of the US and not sure the extent of the damage but it could be an option. https://www.bikelaw.com/2016/06/does-auto-insurance-cover-bicycle-accidents/#:~:text=Yes%2C Your Automobile Insurance Policy,that matters%2C but our own.
  12. I noticed that ewheels sells just the rim for the Nikola/Tesla so I got curious and did a teardown because my rim is donefore on my Tesla. Seemed straightforward enough to get it apart and remove the rim from the hub. Everything looks to be in order and seems like plug and play to put it back together. My questions are: 1. Has anyone tried it? There's very little info on motor disassembly I've found on the forums. 2. What are the risks? The motor was sound before disassembly, just a few dents in the rim which can't be repaired. I don't want to put it all back together and find out it's no longer working.
  13. How did they put the wheel together with both battery packs connected like that then? Surely there's just an extra connector and the packs aren't permanently wired together.
  14. Up for sale is an IPS t350+, Located in San Luis Obispo CA. Looking for $250. Top speed 18mph, comfortably cruises at 15-16mph, with tilt back kicking in around 17mph. 16 inch wheel 350wh battery. Charges to 100% Total mileage ~350 miles. Went out and did a range test with it today and got roughly 11 miles. (I weigh > 200 lbs so a lighter person should be able to get that and more). One thing to note is I disabled the speaker in the unit as there is no way to disable the speed alarms through software. I believe the speed alarms start kicking in around 12mph otherwise. This is a no frills wheel, perfect for learning on and an inexpensive way to get into the sport. Don't expect the fancy lights or software features of the much more expensive Gotway and King song options. Prefer local buyer as shipping a wheel of this price range is probably not the most economical. Please message me with any questions.
  15. The control board was apparently just loose. Even though it was snug within the grooves, any play/movement/vibration at all will make the gyro sensor not happy. "The solution was very simple - tighten the screws securing the PCB, by inserting rubber washers. The PCB vibration was causing the gyro sensor going crazy."
  16. ...aaaand fixed!!! Wahoo 😁 Started this thread with possible bad motor and batteries and all good now 👍 Thanks again all for the help!
  17. I think I'm onto something. Ooh I'm so excited 😋. If this fixes it @RockyTopand @Rafael nailed it. Will report back with results.
  18. So, I took the battery covers off, nothing is immediately jumping out at me as to what could be causing the idle groan/shake. One observation I did have is that the wheel is definitely trying to rebalance itself. When this groaning is going on, the pedals start to tilt back, the same way that the wheel would do if on a really low battery. The control board is secure in it's grooves within the case. I've tried a recalibration through the app which didn't help. I'm pretty stumped.
  19. Cool. I'll consider this a feature then 😁. Probably better for battery longevity anyway
  20. @Chriull, so I just checked my charger voltage and it is outputting 81.7v which is actually really consistent with the typical full charge voltage of my wheel. Is it possible for wheel to fully charge to 84v if the charge is outputting a lower voltage?
  21. I'll pull it apart later and see what I can find. There was 1 screw behind the trolley handle that I missed which broke when taking the case apart the first time. There was also a piece of duct tape holding the 2 sides of the case together directly underneath the board that I was not able to replace when putting it back together. I know that the board is in the correct grooves and the rest of the case is tight. Is everyone in general agreeance that the sound is a sign of something loose in the case and not an issue with the motor?
  22. I have a ~2 year old Tesla roughly 2400km. Recently, I replaced the tire and there is now a weird groaning noise when idle. A recording of this can be found in the link below. Does anyone have thoughts on the cause of this issue? The wheel rides absolutely perfectly otherwise, and I can routinely cruise in the upper 20's no problem. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TrjQHW2VBrbimLo39 My second question is regarding battery wear/voltage. When I first got the wheel, it never charged higher than ~95% according to the Wheelinfo app. Today it charges to roughly ~90% on average (82 volts), but sometimes it'll charge to 95%. The percent it charges to depends on how far the battery was discharged during the prior ride. If I only discharge it to 70%, sometimes it won't even charge back to 80% before the light turns green. Any thoughts or explanations on this behavior? Even with battery degredation, shouldn't I still expect the wheel to charge to 84 volts? Thanks in advance for any feedback/info.
  23. If you were satsified with your IPS wheel/ not looking for a real upgrade, I have an IPS T350+ (unlocked 30kph) that I'd let go for like $250. I live in San Luis Obispo.
  24. All good ideas. It currently rides mostly fine. There is a small "bump" when going over that spot, similar to how it was described in the other thread of going over the crack that separates slabs on a sidewalk. But it is barely perceptible and still feels comfortable at high speeds. I like the idea of the leather belt to protect the rim surface. I'll need to wait however until I get the proper tools in hand. Either a vice or C clamp as suggested. Anyone know if it is possible to replace just the outer rim without the motor? Seems like in the other thread that wasn't really an option. Since it still seems ridable I don't think it would be worth $400 for a new motor even if I couldn't fully bend it back.
  25. Hit a pothole around 20mph. Luckily only superficial scrapes on myself. Thought the same for my Tesla until I took a closer look at the rim. There is a decent sized dent, the tire is very slightly bulging but otherwise it still rides fine. Any suggestions as to whether I should try and repair this myself, whether it looks not significant enough to cause safety concerns, or any other ideas welcome.
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