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About GameKing

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    San Luis Obispo

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  1. If you were satsified with your IPS wheel/ not looking for a real upgrade, I have an IPS T350+ (unlocked 30kph) that I'd let go for like $250. I live in San Luis Obispo.
  2. All good ideas. It currently rides mostly fine. There is a small "bump" when going over that spot, similar to how it was described in the other thread of going over the crack that separates slabs on a sidewalk. But it is barely perceptible and still feels comfortable at high speeds. I like the idea of the leather belt to protect the rim surface. I'll need to wait however until I get the proper tools in hand. Either a vice or C clamp as suggested. Anyone know if it is possible to replace just the outer rim without the motor? Seems like in the other thread that wasn't really an option. Since it still seems ridable I don't think it would be worth $400 for a new motor even if I couldn't fully bend it back.
  3. Hit a pothole around 20mph. Luckily only superficial scrapes on myself. Thought the same for my Tesla until I took a closer look at the rim. There is a decent sized dent, the tire is very slightly bulging but otherwise it still rides fine. Any suggestions as to whether I should try and repair this myself, whether it looks not significant enough to cause safety concerns, or any other ideas welcome.
  4. Kind of a small market and I can't reliably check this page often enough to snag a deal, so just putting it out there that I'm looking in case anyone is trying to offload their ACM after a recent upgrade. Could be swayed in a different direction, but generally: looking for a 16 inch wheel, something that comfortably goes 20-25mph, with a long range. Trying to stay under $800 but price will obviously depend on the wheel. Live in San Luis Obispo Ca, about half way between LA and SF. So may be able to swing a pickup if you're in that vicinity.
  5. I'm from the states. Now that you mention it, the charger started acting up a couple days ago. It was working seemingly normally with the decreased battery function (i.e. Plug it in, would go red for x minutes then turn green to indicate a full charge. Then, unplugging it, only 3 lights would come on. A couple days ago, plugging the charger in, it does not want to charge, the light would just stay green. I got it to start eventually by toggling the unicycle on an off repeatedly. Is this indicative of the BMS cutting out because of the bad cells or a charging issue?
  6. I bought the unicycle in September of last year. Didn't use it too often, I'd estimate no more than 100 miles in total (at ~2-3 miles per charge). There were definitely month long stints in between where I didn't use it at all, so maybe improper storage (I never kept track of what charge level I left the battery at when not in use) has contributed to the failure, but I don't think it should fail within a year in any case.
  7. Thank you @Keith and @Chriull for the responses. I'm otherwise happy with the wheel for the money that I spent on it. Would love something faster but can't justify the investment at this point in time. Do you both agree that bad individual cells would cause the symptoms I'm experiencing?
  8. I have a generic unicycle with a generic 130Wh battery (16 2200mAh cells in series). Over time, the battery life has degraded significantly to the point where if I charge it now, no more that 3 of the 4 LED's will turn on when the battery is fully charged, and I can't get more than 1km of distance out of it. Someone correct me if you think it may be something else, but I believe that 3-4 of these cells have died which brings the fully charged voltage of the overall battery down to ~50 Volts (I haven't gotten access to a multimeter to confirm this), and the BMS will cut it off even though the 12-13 good cells still have most of their charge left. My questions are the following: 1. Does the charger/BMS know when there are bad cells and account for this so that the remaining cells aren't overcharged or damaged? 2. Is there a way to jumpstart the individual "dead" cells while they're still in series with the others? 3. Is it safe to remove and replace the dead cells with new ones/ Does anyone know if the cells are typically soldered in or attached in a semi-permanent way on these generic batteries? 4. Is there an easy way to get all the cells back to a balanced voltage without any special equipment? 5. Is it worth bothering with the above or should I buy a replacement for $80 off of Aliexpress and take advantage of an advertised 1 year warranty for when it inevitably fails again a few months down the line?
  9. I looked through the other thread and all posts in this thread and couldn't find one that was exactly the same. I am wondering, the main post references T1 and X1 mosfets or some variation thereof: Q1, Q2, etc. My question is, are the T1 and X1 required? Can there only be a T1 and no X1? or does this mean that one of the three mosfets in the picture I provided is the X1? Should I open up the battery casing fully to better verify what I am looking at or can anyone say with some confidence as to which of these I should be shunting just from the picture I provided?
  10. Hi all. I bought one of the generic wheels off ebay not knowing about this issue. It has mohoo logos on the side. My second day of riding, I experienced a BMS cutout when leaning to accelerate while traveling uphill, causing a nice faceplant. I pulled apart the casing and it looks like my battery has 3 mosfets, seen below. These are the only mosfets I can distinguish through the battery casing. The center pin is not connected on any of the mosfets. Are these what I am looking for in order to shunt, and if so, which of these three should I be shunting? Thanks for the help.
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