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George Iliev

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About George Iliev

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  • Birthday 01/02/1989

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  • Location
    Burgas, Bulgaria
  • EUC
    KS 16X

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  1. Yeah, I think China has a law against QA. Surely it seems that way when viewed from the outside. Would you imagine, right? - Could you ever imagine such a text even leaked to the general public in accordance to a new firmware of Galaxy S20 Samsung in example? Now can you imagine this firmware being pushed with notifications and the whole shebang - Update to the new flimsyware 2.0.2, patch notes - test test test. Absurd. Cheap. Chinese. It's a mockery and disrespect of a (highly) paying, early adopting, small-market customer. And if it continues, or they don't fix that behavior, soon, they will either remain a "custom" company or be non-existent soon (read 5-10 years here). Well... People ride Gotways here, and from what I hear they're made from melted down action mans and wrapped in tomato shipping cellophane. And build quality is not exactly right, as a description. I rant about the materials quality and selection. I rant about the construction design itself - there is not a single place inside the wheel, that has a honeycomb strengthening in it, it has large hollow parts, sidewalls are thin, screws are having their heads flattened after 2-3 unscrews - all of those are possible weak points during a hard fall, and just touching it feels like you're touching the playtoy of a 2-3 year old 20-25-30 years ago. I don't know if you recall the feeling to mind, or if I'm describing it properly, but it reminds me of my childhood, when we had toys inside snacks, and they were made from KingSong, apparently. The feeling of the wheel is cheap. It taps hollow, the plastic's transparent at places. The handle is solid itself, but when you pick the wheel up it moves and rattles around ever-so-slightly (*not during ride, so almost unnoticeable), but it's there. And it FEELS CHEAP AS FUCK. The build itself is solid. The wheel is heavy. It's not feeling like it will fall apart. If it's standing 1 meter away from you it will look like a tank. You won't notice anything loose or threatening (besides it's design). That's until you get up close. @buell47 has a guide about dustproofing your 16x and you'll see the gaps he's sealing in order to prevent dust. You'll see the headlamp design. And from what I read, gotway's worse. And I can't imagine how that's possible. The common belief is that KingSong is safe, well-built, and that's why I went with KS16x. If that's the top of the market, I'd steer clear of everything below that.
  2. @WI_Hedgehog, I literally laughed out loud. But it's true they'd say it, which kinda makes it also sad. @Phong Vu.... IDK what to tell ya mate. First things first: I've never owned, seen or touched an Inmotion, so I can't comment on that in no way what-so-ever. And now on the question at hand about the 16x: Do I love the wheel - Oh, yes I do. Is it A LOT MORE of a wheel than the One S2? You can bet your ass it is. Is it as gracious, polished, refined and culturalized as it's European predecessor? OH, GOD NO! I've done my best to describe both materials and feeling of the two products in this thread, look for the long posts, but if I've had to summarize in a single sentence or two...: One S2 feels and reacts (for what it's made*) as a high-grade, high-price European tech product. It feels like holding a new Galaxy device - it's refined, great materials, and oozes classiness and astounding build quality. The design (looking back at it now, 1.5-2 years later) probably looks a bit dated (LEDS especailly) when looked at up close, but while you're riding it, or encountering it on the streets it looks like a thing from the future - minimalistic, pure and... well, classy. Low key, but high-tech and classy. It had the same depth of it's white color as my Audi A5 S-line, which I liked ALOT. They seemed like they were a kit, and when you take it out of the trunk most of the people stared Now about the Chinese rebel. Well, that's it. It is a rebel. It feels like a rebel. Feels like a bully, that spent a couple of years in a correctional facility, never got a good education or the better-high-school-or-college treatment and is not university smart, but IS street smart. It's not a white-collar device. Nothing about it "feels" low-key. It's big, heavy, huffs and puffs, and if I had to imagine both of those devices like people, The One S2 would be an average-looking hipster-y 20-something y.o., that has an iPhone, dresses lively and with upper-class shirts and sneakers, lives and works @ some flashy tech-giants office, working off from an expensive office, but is rather cowardly, and has never taken a single risk in his life bigger than not wearing his sunglasses on the morning starbucks-coffee run. KS16x on the other hand is a rather broad-shouldered bully, dressed in cheap, worn out and teared in places jeans, with an old rocker leather jacket, making a living off of reselling cars and hand-watches of questionable origins. With fluff dice and a CD hanging on a chain from the rear-view mirror. He'll have a 2-3 y.o. rooted android device, with cracked screen and pirated Cooked ROM installed. If you're the kind of employer that can influence him, he will (do his best to) follow you, and maybe try to be more civilized in order not to embarrass you in public, but will not always succeed in doing so. On the other hand, if you ask him to show you some fun time, oh god you'll have a blast that night. It'll not be especially (or at all) safe, you will feel un-secure, the situation will not (always) be in your control but you'll be grinning (most of the time, that is. In the other times you'll be saying really fast "...oh-shit-oh-shit-oh-shit-oh-shit..."). I aimed for a short description but I guess I blew it, didn't I? Long story short - it's cheap. It has poor engineering design and horrid construction-stress optimization. It has ABSURDLY CRAPPY oem software. It has HORRID documentation, support, manufacturer feedback/documentation (they released a firmware with notes " test test test" <- and that was the whole text, and their firmwares are always looked at with more than a grain of salt, because nobody knows - are they stable? Is it a beta? Nobody knooowss...), etc, etc .... And I love it. The one thing that bugs me the most amongst all others is that I don't trust it in rain. A KingSong representative, when asked by me if the wheel is water-resistant or at least - weather resistant, replied, and I quote: "Safe in rain. Maybe not heavy rain not know medium rain where you live home, but rain is safe except some rain. Here a video of how we test riders riding in river with it for short time. [ video is 5 sec long, people making a circle in an feet-finger deep puddle ]. See? Water safe, but don't ride in heavy rain. Heavy, force rain not recommended". As I said - it's pretty chinese mate.
  3. I tried riding with tyre @ 40psi, but to be honest, the wheel seemed almost unrideable on uneven terrain such as poorly paved stone-cut road - Wheel jumped and hopped getting airborne almost every other bigger chunk of stone, and felt like I was riding on a knife's edge... I'm a bit fat also, so u'd think rider weight should actually help counter that but no dice...
  4. Subscribe. What is it I read somewhere that some of those sealants corrode the rim?
  5. Great. I need to wear out components in order for them to work as expected in the first place. That's "planning for the future" manufacturing for ya. If I had to put all my experience into one sentence until now, it'll go something like: " I love that wheel, and hate that it's made in China." If KingSong told their specs to Ninebot, and let their design team handle the bodywork, QA and software that would be a MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN. Edit: It feels like I'm riding a really nice wheel's working prototype...
  6. Exactly my usecase. Not the result though. It locks only the back stick nut. The front nut remains floating, and in order to lock it, (it seems like the inner tubes are out of place) you need to fully extend and then fold. 70% of the time what you wrote doesn't work for me. Admittedly, there are 30% cases, which pay out, but that's too low for my satisfaction, or I guess anybody's, if I had to gamble on it.
  7. PS: Another thing that BUGS THE FUCK OUT OF ME with the trolley handle: Why the fuck did you make it so cheap, KingSong? I need to extend it only half way in order to be really comfortable with it. When you extend it fully it gets cheesy and wobbly. But no, surrey, you have to extend it all the way up, and only then fold it half way back down, because FOR SOME UNKNOWN REASON you are unable to lock it directly in the half way position from fully folded state, because the front nut is misaligned 70% of the cases. Mindblowingly stupid design. As I said - desperate need of a BETTER INDUSTRIAL DESIGN DEPARTMENT. And the KING of all PITAs with this wheel - The cutoff switch. You have to FULLY stop, lightly tap the handle, hear the beep, pick it up. 2-5 seconds lost. The Ninebot experience: Haul ass while still moving at walking speed, grab wheel by handle, up the stairs, ZERO times malfunctioned. The KS great but yet crappy handle though - sometimes you extend it, and it sits half way. Sometimes you have to go the full 800-fucking-miles to the top-extended position, then fold back. Sometimes you extend the handle, and for some strange reason, it reads the motor off switch, and the motor switches off, when you put it back down it switches on, but is already too leaned forward to balance, so you have to manually lift it to be vertical, at which point IT DOESN'T DISENGAGE THE MOTOR, because it doesn't read the motor-off switch that time around, and the wheel starts to spin, shouting "PLEASE, DECELERATE" in the middle of the bank at which you're keeping millions of euros (< had to try, even I didn't believe it), all of which, you need to do while swinging left and right a huge 1 meter stick of a handle, because YOU HAD TO FULLY EXTEND IT IN THE FIRST PLACE. Idiotic, horrid, absurd. Oh, and remember - You're doing all of that ABSURDLY laughable stuff, and leaving skidmarks on the marble floors, while hearing a PLETHORA of BEEP. BEEP. BEEP-BEEP. BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP. Chinese are apparently all deaf. No other logical explanation about that design there.
  8. Time for a write-up. First of all, I have a son now, and I guess I have the whole Family Starter Pack, even with the expansion (boy and a girl). Rejoice Now, on more pressing matters: I've ridden the 16x for about 100 km's (not a really long distance), but split between 43+ trips in total. So - a lot of trips, small distances. Wheel starts to grow on me, but it's one heavy ass mofo. By no means NOWHERE NEAR as nimble as the S2, clumsy on tight boardwalks when you're trying to get on/off it, near other people, etc. It might be just me yet, but I was able to do that on a dime with the S2, which is not the case with the KS16x. Something curious here - It happened to me three times already: When I try to get on it (I'm right footed, so right foot is on wheel, left on ground), I closed my left pedal with my off-foot, which resulted in a really clumsy getting off it again :D. Pedals are squeaky, and uncomfortable to open with your feet. Even when you do it, they feel cheap, because they "fall" to their open places from a firmly closed position which makes them feel "unsmooth" and "chinese". I'm going to be 3D project/printing a solution to that, that I might be offering to you guys if they turn out good. The battery is literally endless. I don't know what the hype about the firmwares is all about. I was just reading the thread about 2.02 firmware, comparing it to 1.05, but with control board 1.4 while BT module is 1.93285727895X.yZ squared, but transistors are models 8.5 with 1.5 control board hard settings, 1.08 firmware has softer...... WTF?!?!?! I was literally reading it all, and it felt like one of my briefings about the source code development on an AI project I'm currently working on. Dudes, we're not engineers, and we only have access to the "ass dyno" - term from cars - i.e. - NO HARD DATA. No dynamometers, no repeatable environment, different riders, etc, etc ... Which brings me to the next question: I did 40 km on soft mode, 30 km's on medium or riding or whatever it was called, and the last ones - on hard mode, experient <- whatever that means, etc. There is LITERALLY ZERO DIFFERENCE between them. The only thing I've noticed (and is quite unnerving) is the fact, that when you push it hard, or lean forward for some seconds, and you're on soft mode, the wheel tends to "lean" a bit forwards "helping you" accelerate (NOT), which tilt doesn't immediately shift backwards when you instantly brake hard, which is HORRID, as your feet are angled towards the front, yet, you're squatting back trying to stop in order not to kill the LSD-infused kid wandering off in the middle of the bike track, while trying to chase a strangely large cockroach with a stick. Put the wheel on hard mode, and that effect is still there, just a lot more negligeable. Which brings me to my next point. Acceleration is great. Almost awesome, and I presume it would be even cooler with what you guys are using "power pads" or whatever, since without them, the wheel feels a bit "detached" from me, because it's bulky and smooth, and heavy AS FUCK, and you can't reliably or for long, grip it between your legs and force-shift it forwards or, which is more important to me - backwards, making it stop harder (or of course, accelerate). Stopping sucks. That said, it needs some clarification: The S2 stops on a dime, and when you haul ass backwards, it used to tilt backwards, helping you feel solidly standing on the wheel, and that reaction was INSTANT. I was kinda expecting EVERY POSSIBLE WHEEL out there to be like that, since IT IS AWESOME AS FUCK to feel that secure and naturally standing. Not the case here. Pedals are.... well. Not helpful might be the least invasive thing to say. This kinda breaks the whole "augmentation" feeling, because the wheel doesn't feel as "in tune" with me when breaking as the S2. On the other hand... Handling in turns and carving ARE AWESOME. Pedals are scooping just a bit when cornering hard, pedals stay solid and contrary to the turn-angle - awesomely stable feeling, which, wasn't the case with the S2. There were pedal tips, unnatural angles, miscalibrations from small boardwalk jumps... It wasn't so... fast-adapting compared to the 16x. If I had to describe it as a personality trait, S2 compared to the 16x feels like... The X feels like it wants to be ridden and can take an aggressive ride, and it kinda taunts you here and there to push you, but it's rather not so happy about stopping. It doesn't really like slowing down or stopping, and it feels uncooperative in that area. Sometimes dangerously estranged and detached even. The S2 is more like a pocket-size blissfully obeying pomeranian dog, which is not especially bright or "fitness intelligent", but is really easily scared and stopping and running away are it's specialties. It's going to do what you want it running forwards, but expect a few mishaps here and there, but when it comes to stopping and abandoning ship - It's the expert in that situation. My mudguard tore half off today from a single contact with a box in the trunk of my car. It was brand brand new, not even a scuff on it. Horrid design, with a horrid weak-point on each side. My current net conclusions - the 16x needs European software developers and better industrial design department, and Europe plastics supplier. My ninebot was LITERALLY built as a tank. It took plunges from 2 meters free-fall to a hard concrete, cutouts with 24-25 kph, rolling for tens of meters after, hitting whatever was there, and never had a SINGLE piece fall or anything more than a moderate (not even big) scuff or dent. KS 16x - fell from a standstill to a decked terrace - scuffed deeply the faux leather sidepads, and scuffed deeply the plastic next to it, put it inside my trunk and tore the mudguard in half, and hit a door with it, causing a scuff on the front. B****, Please. It's a 2k$ wheel compared to a 5-600$ roomba. Do it right the next time around. The Ninebot needs 3-4 times bigger battery, and possibly better engine, but not necessarily. For the city commute it's adequate IMHO. 30 kph wouldn't be safe on such a narrow and small tire so... Speed is a-ok, but battery size is a no-go. And a KS trolley handle. Golly is that thing awesome when walking. Horrid quality though, on that element also, and you can feel it wobbling when you're hauling it's fat ass up and down the stairs.
  9. Mine did the same, only that the dipping went both ways - front and back, like it was "hunting" for calibration 0. Calibrated it a couple of times, but the issue seems gone only after I've done the bluetooth patch and recalibrated... I'm still performing checkups to see if it's gone, but only on short trips since weather/work has been awfully alternating and preventing me to do a proper ride. My dearest suggestion - patch the wheel. I'm also with a brand new control board, CY tire and 1.08 firmw.
  10. So, for those of us that watched the whole thing - What's the secret?
  11. Dudududes. I was thinking of posting here first, but started another thread, because thought it might be helpful to other lost and data-hungry soul. I was looking for suggested settings for the EUC world app (ex-wheellog) specifically for the 16x. I've included a simple list, which chan be copied and filled by the next guy (or gal, feminists don't hate), so in the end, we will have some nicely arranged data, from which we might be able to extrapolate some objective conclusions about safe amperage/current alarms and/or voltage-related alarms depending on rider weight, etc. Please have a look, and fill it, so I can ruthlessly copy your settings for myself and skip the pavement-biting-face-scraping part while trying to guesstimate them personally Thanks mates Oh, and ps: Errrm, I don't know how to answer that, because my wife might read this some day, and I'd be fucked. In which case, I'll just leave this here: Love you honey! ;* kisses to the kids <3 Just kidding. Yep, they are more important. Don't take it personally tho, I consider them more important than my life also, so the forum's no biggie ...
  12. People! I need some help, and would love the community's input... I was talking to @Seba about building default suggested profiles settings for different wheels with peak amperage, sustained current, etc, but the data needs to be gathered, and it seems like a ton of work. But either way, I need suggestions about how to set up my own ks16x alarms and settings, and thought it might be nice to systematise the community's settings, so people that come searchig afterwards for the ks 16x EUC world suggested settings (keywords yo) have a nice catalogue. To keep info easy to read for the future users I suppose something looking like that, so next up can just copy and fill it: 🏗️Rider weight: 105 kg equipped / ~220 lbs 📝Current firmware: 1.08 🔋Battery level averiging: true 🔌Overvoltage alarm: true Voltage-dependant speed alarm: true 🔊Speed alarm 1 (high priority) : ____ / @ 🔋battery percent: ____ 🔉Speed alarm 2 (med priority) : ____ / @ 🔋battery percent: ____ 🔈Speed alarm 3 (low priority) : ____ / @ 🔋battery percent: ____ Pre-alarm: off? (idk what it does) ⚡Peak current: 28 A (saw it somewhere, idk if its good) ⚡Current: 26 A (what I wrote above) 🌡 Temperature alarm: 60 degrees Celsius Ps: let me know if I'm missing something, so I can add it to that post;
  13. Did you miss me? Either way, I'm back. Asking out of courtesy. I did another ride yesterday, 30+ hours after the music-bluetooth patch, fw 1.08, and still - no calibration mishaps, no floating, no dipping, or at least not a single one I've noticed, which means, it's either gone, or too subtle to detect. Whichever is true, I don't really care. What I do care about, though, is that the wheel starts to click with me, when it's without issues. Some observations from my 10ish km ride yesterday: Getting off curbs and getting onto them is waaaay different than the S2. Places, with which I'm used to expect a medium impact from the S2 times now feel like small bumps in the road. The fat tire is really cushy when getting off previously presumably high places. In short terms: City experience is great. I'm trying to push it to feel/learn the possibilities of the acceleration, and even when I'm confident about pushing it, I'm yet to read more than 600W peak power used (using EUC.world's readouts). I don't have enough brown-coloured pants to push further though... At least yet. I'm just happy to know, there's plenty of power left, because, as it is with cars also - power means safety when used properly. Now, I'm intentionally letting it sit for a day or two, and will take it out tomorrow, to see what happens with 30+ hrs of inactivity, and if the problem remains absent, that means, undoubtedly, that THE PATCH IS NEEDED EVEN FOR 1.5XX CONTROL BOARDS. For now, it just is highly probable, but not yet fully confirmed. After a week of uneventful (in a good way) operation, I will confirm if it's truly the only variable differentiating the outcome. I won't be changing even the settings so we know the only possible variable is the BT patch. Mind you, that the first day I rode with the LED strip ON, and since I've disabled it, as I find it horrid-looking. But to my best memory, the problem occurred both with & without the RGB LED strip operating.
  14. U'd be surprised, but we have not a single 90 degree angle in the whole place, and the walls are a poem for the high seas. Dudes, update from an hour ago: A little info: Yes, firmware's 1.08 currently wheel is set to "soft" mode ... i think. Today I installed the bluetooth patch as @buell47 suggested. Did a calibration with bubble level, on top of the housing, with X and Y reading 0.00/+-0.02. I did hold it between my feet to keep it from wobbling while pressing the on/off button, so that's not exactly how you suggested, but I think it was pretty stable. Results: Went out for a ride and to do some chores, and to my best experience I think the "floating" is gone. There is like a really subtle forward tilt while riding, but IDK if that's from the soft mode, as I haven't experimented with the other settings yet. What I'm saying to be noted, is that the device is now rideable and pretty enjoyable to say the least. I wasn't frightened a single time today, and I did like a 10 km ride, and, to test calibration, went down and up trough some pretty steep hills, and it acted beautifully, predictable and repeatable. There might be some subtle movements, but I don't know if they're actually there, or it's just me imagining and matrixing a needle in a haystack, that isn't actually there, and I'll need a lot of riding to be absolutely cardinal about that statement. To stay true to the title of my thread, I need to add here, that such a subtle mishaps and pedal dips (only forward though, the 16x does it both ways) were noticeable on the ninebot S2 also, when entering a corner somewhat aggressively, and trying to accelerate inside the bend. Then it seemed to dip the pedals further forward, and it was a bit unnerving, but once you grasp the concept it was controllable. Not nice, but controllable, because it was repeatable, thus - possible to learn to expect it. Pretty sure it was a firmware overlook due to low quantity (and possibly quality) of testing before release. Always kept it up to date, and although it seemed to be better every next update, they never fixed it while I was using it. All that being said, I talked to my dealer, and he still doesn't trust the control board. He told me there was a similar issue with another client, where the wheel wouldn't hold calibration for more than 16(ish) hours, after which, looses it, and starts floating again. He told me to monitor it now, and if the problem is gone for 48+ hours that I'm on the safe side, but I'm not to hurry being happy about it. I'll keep you posted, and I'll possibly do a bit of more detailed writeup of the ride today, but that'll be later in the evening, as my work is trying to bite me in the ass, and I need to play catch-up for a while.
  15. I tried the BT patch today, recalibrated as I always do - with a digital bubble level tool on top of the wheel, with degrees flashing between 0.00 to +-0.02. Today I rode the wheel for 10ish kilometers and didn't notice a single dip or floating. Possibly just a tad bit while accelerating, but it could be possible that's what they call "soft mode" (havent tried if it's there in hard mode). My dealer says if it's ok for another 24 hours (48 hrs in total) after that calibration, it could be the end of my issues. Apparently there's some problem with some of the KS control boards, where they won't keep a stable calibration for more than 16-24 hours. Will report again when I do some riding tomorrow or the day after.
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