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svenomous last won the day on May 28 2019

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About svenomous

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Seattle (Eastside), Washington, USA
  • EUC
    KingSong 18XL

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  1. A follow-up: Opened up the wheel today, after a few rides, to see if everything looks good, and it does! No cracks. Lightly tightened a few of the pedal hanger attach bolts, since I had snugged them down very lightly and a couple felt a little loose. Two little items that might be useful to someone: First: When adjusting the lift sensor, the screw has to be tightened to a certain point, slightly tight but not too tight. It's not really tight enough to ensure the screw doesn't back out eventually, especially given the vibrations that are part of operation. Originally the set s
  2. As promised, I'm reporting back on my plastic repair work. I had brand new shell halves to rebuild the wheel after the first two failed attempts with the Loc-Tite (thread-locker), but with 4 broken shell halves to play with, and after getting all the advice above about the potential for repair via plastic welding, I wanted to give it a try and possibly end up with a spare set of inner shell halves to use. Out of 4 halves available, I chose the 2 that had the least amount of missing material. I scavenged some plastic from one of the remaining halves, to use as raw material for the repair.
  3. Anyone who wishes to roll back to a previous firmware should use EUC World on an Android phone, or Soft Tuner on an iPhone. The latter is the internal KS app used by the manufacturer and by dealers to load firmware and do initial configuration of the wheel, and KS has made it available on the Apple app store because right now there is no official "regular" app available on iPhone. Either EUC World or Soft Tuner lets you swap to whatever firmware version (appropriate to your wheel) is available, "upgrading" or "downgrading" at will.
  4. What happens if you open the case, disconnect the battery pack on one side, wait a while, and measure the pack on that side as well as the connector that the pack connects to (which carries the voltage from the other side)? Carefully, btw, you're dealing with high voltage and a high potential for arcing! Are the voltages what you expect them to be (84V or so for a fully charged pack), and are they equal on both connectors?
  5. Last summer I had that giddy "this is effing cool" period where I just wanted to ride the wheel anytime and anywhere I could, and I undertook a long multi-hour ride on a series of river and lakefront trails we have around here, a loop that adds up to a few dozen miles. I had gotten comfortable enough that I felt I could ride around people without that uncertain "wobble" that's there at the beginning, but my feet still ached horribly after just a few minutes on the wheel. But, it was a beautiful summer day, I had a little backpack with water and a lunch, and so I just stopped every 20 minutes
  6. On my KS wheel I noted that there are fuses (mini ATX) on the mainboard to provide overcurrent protection on the battery outputs (one fuse per pack). This implies that the packs themselves do not provide such protection. I can attest that the fuses saved one of my packs from self-destruction when I accidentally bridged connector pins while trying to measure voltage. There was a mighty arc, my voltmeter lead was melted/fused, and one of the fuses blew. The pack was fine, and so was the wheel after I replaced the blown fuse. Luckily I was measuring opposite-side-pack voltage through the conne
  7. Per-cell voltage readings would be very useful, and apps (manufacturer app or EUCW/DarknessBot) could simplify for a user who doesn't want to understand the nuances, by just giving simplified "battery pack health" warnings based on thresholds. Would it make any sense to have some kind of reserve power capability in a wheel, e.g. via a couple of large capacitors, so that when a battery pack is getting low, the system can momentarily draw on the reserve when power requirements exceed the battery's ability to supply the necessary wattage, with an alarm sounding as soon as this emergency rese
  8. It's hard to see in the photo you added in your edit, @ShanesPlanet (kinda dark), but I think I see the tell-tale staining and maybe a crack or two? Not nearly as bad as what I had, though.
  9. I guess I should've read the fine print, too. My recent research has revealed to me that Loc-Tite is generally not safe for contact with plastics, as even if the result isn't as dramatic as it has been for me and these KS shells, it will apparently degrade just about any plastic over time. Lesson learned. I'm really good (and getting reasonably fast) at taking apart and putting together a wheel from parts, though. I've acquired a skill!
  10. Hi all, see this: I wanted to start a separate thread to call attention to this, for anyone who's tempted to use Loc-Tite or another thread-locker compound to help secure bolts/screws when taking apart and putting together their KS wheel. My advice is, don't let the stuff touch a KS inner shell, because whatever plastic that's made of seems to draw the compound into itself, where it acts like acid and cracks the plastic apart within a short period of time. Jason at eWheels talked to KS about my shell-cracking problems, and they told him they believe the thread-locker is acting as a
  11. PSA (which I will repeat in its own thread, with an appropriate title): do not apply thread-locker when doing one of these builds, at least not with the KS inner shells. See this thread: In the end, I repeated the above-described project 3 times (!), because the first and second time I cracked the shell due to the use of thread-locker (Loc-Tite for example). The stuff is like acid to this inner shell plastic. On the second build I watched it create cracks that weren't there before, right in front of my disbelieving and appalled eyes! I've removed the reference/tip about using thre
  12. Closing the loop on the rebuild (not on the repair attempt): In the end I took apart and assembled the wheel 3 times, using a total of 6 shell halves, 4 of which I paid for and 2 of which were generously provided for free by Jason at eWheels. The second build went well, and I was very gentle and careful. I avoided the pitfall with those plastic spacer washers, used a lot less silicone sealant when "gluing" the two shell halves together, and applied a lot less thread-locker to the pedal hanger bolts, to avoid getting thread-locker all over the place as had happened on the first rebuild.
  13. My only concern with the paracord solution is that it's not flexible or retractable. It becomes hard to choose just the right length to allow normal operation, without also potentially getting snagged on something and causing an accident. Someone (sorry, forget who ) posted a story of their leash getting pushed into the wheel from behind by strong wind, being ingested into the wheel, and getting shredded while the rider got (somewhat safely) ejected. Any cord with slack will tend to trail backward while riding, but could be upset in turns or by crosswinds, causing it to catch on something.
  14. Agreed. Everyone has setbacks in learning/training. Having days with breakthroughs, and other days where progress seems to have gone backward, is normal. If things just aren't clicking, either fall back to simpler exercises (like the half moons or skates), or call it a day and come back at it a few hours or a day later.
  15. I've had my wheel go careening off without me. Someday it will hit something expensive, or someone who won't appreciate it or will get hurt. I've been looking for a solution that balances the need to keep the wheel from continuing far without me against the desire not to hurt myself in the process of ensuring that. @PennBruce's solution looks like a good one, and I may end up creating a similar solution. Being lazy, I've decided to give this a try first: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088MQA0G. Specifically the 48" "large carabiner" option. This is a so-called gear tether, which uses a ny
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