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svenomous

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svenomous last won the day on May 28

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  1. @Ilya Shkolnik, have you ever considered the possibility of re-transmitting wheel data/parameters via BLE, acting as a Peripheral instead of as a Central, and using standard "sensor" characteristics, to allow devices designed to listen to such sensors to get wheel values? For example, many sports/fitness watches can read from BLE heart rate sensors, and bike computers can listen to cadence, speed, power, heart rate, radar, light, and who knows what else. Increasingly BLE is replacing ANT+ for sensor stuff, and newer equipment supports it. I know that the standard sensor types supported by watches and bike computers are limited, but it should be possible to at least provide speed and battery level, and via creative means other values could probably also be exposed, for example by pretending that amps/watts is from a bike power meter. Before I go any further with my own investigations into the possibility of writing my own iOS app, I wanted to check if this concept is at all viable in your app feature plans. I do use and enjoy DarknessBot, but don't want to be tied only to my iPhone or Apple Watch. I'm starting to experiment with "smart" glasses with HUD integration, and to make that work with a wheel would require something like what I've described.
  2. True. Depends also on the platform. Some allow creating customized "gauges"/"instruments" and widgets. A lot of work. Would be nice to be able to get wheel parameters on a HUD in cycling glasses or ski goggles. But, may not be worth the effort to do all the end to end work required, including possible expansion of the target platform to support the sensor types.
  3. I did some research into iOS's Core Bluetooth framework (iOS because I have an iPhone, so that's my first inclination), and indeed it allows an app to act either/both as a Central (discovering, connecting to, and receiving data from Peripherals), or a Peripheral (advertising services/characteristics, taking connections from Centrals, and feeding data to them). So yes, I think that what I'm envisioning is possible. Of course the best/easiest approach would be for the existing apps that know how to talk to the wheels to add this new capability to their arsenal, but if I had the energy and desire I could do a bunch of learning (Objective C) and write a little translator app that steals code from the existing apps and does nothing except translate sensor data to act as a Peripheral that sport watches and similar equipment could receive data from. I think I'll head over to the DarknessBot thread and see if there's any interest by the author in adding such capabilities at some point. Doing this from scratch by myself would be daunting and I'm not sure it's quite worth the effort.
  4. Thanks. Doing research! There are a few choices.
  5. As I understand it, the various manufacturers' wheels use a proprietary BLE communication protocol to talk to their respective apps. This has been reverse-engineered to enable WheelLog and DarknessBot to work. There are all kinds of smart watches and bike computers and whatnot that are designed to receive data from sensors. My bike's Garmin computer gets cadence, heart rate, speed, and shifter information (including battery levels). Often this is done over ANT+, but these devices also advertise the ability to use the newer BLE based sensors that have started replacing ANT+. Wheels have some useful metrics that they report continuously over BLE connections: speed, distance, battery level, temperature, amps/watts, ..., which leads me to my desire/question/musing: unless wheel manufacturers can be convinced to start outputting standard BLE "sensor protocol" that a variety of devices would be able to receive and display, is it technically feasible for a smartphone to decode the proprietary BLE data stream (as DarknessBot and WheelLog already does) and retransmit certain metrics (speed and battery level at a minimum) via the appropriate sensor protocol, essentially emulating a standard BLE sensor? I'm a developer, but more of a Windows coder with my last mobile coding experience being in the old Windows Mobile days, so I have no knowledge of current Android/iOS code frameworks and capabilities. I also know nothing about the BLE "sensor protocol" I speak of, nor whether it's even possible for a phone to emulate this and pretend to be a sensor. But...maybe someone else in these forums knows enough to help alleviate my ignorance. And btw yes, I'm aware that DarknessBot can talk to an Apple Watch and WheelLog can talk to e.g. a PebbleWatch, but I'm hoping for a solution that opens up wheel metrics to the large field of sport smart watches and bike computers and even smart goggles (HUDs).
  6. Brand/model, please? This interests me. Been looking at HUD solutions for helmets, but those require a visor and I've hesitated to buy as I usually wear an MTB full-face helmet without visor.
  7. Hi, I’d like to confirm: the battery connector from each of the two packs in KS18XL is MT60, right? Looks like it, but want to make sure before I order. Are there different sizes/gauges of MT60? The ones I see for sale generally say “3.5mm” in the description, which implies there are other sizes. If so, what’s the right size for the KS? Another thing to confirm, the two thicker wires are power output with black being common ground, while the thinner wire is the plus side of the charge input, correct? And finally, would it be recommended to zip-tie these connectors for extra security, or are they considered pretty secure from coming apart due to vibration or shock?
  8. @Meserias, I had trouble creating my account using SMS verification (using a phone number as login id), but it worked OK when I switched to email verification (using an email address as my login). My problem was that I would never receive the SMS code, even though it had supposedly been sent. The email code arrived within seconds, on the other hand. There’s a way to switch from the default phone login to email login during account setup. Worth a try maybe? Once 200km have passed, the wheel’s speed alarms and tiltback speed will remain unchanged. The “unlock” is not automatic and will require app use once more. What happens beyond 200km is that the app, when accessing the speed settings screen, does a handshake with the server, sends the wheel accumulated value to it along with account info, and receives an “ok” to set the higher speed values. Sorry! I’ve actually had no problems at all with the KS app on iPhone X. Good luck. If all else fails, consult with your dealer.
  9. Agreed, but I'd rather have a nice case on my phone than to keep it wrapped in a towel and packing tape . The EUC Bodyglove seems like the perfect analogy to a nice phone case, and there's probably no reason to take it off once it has replaced the bubble wrap.
  10. Let's remember that a human is very good at balancing on two legs and can do all kinds of things with legs, hips, torso, head, and arms to affect CG, and that the cerebellum does a pretty good job of making adjustments to try to keep CG "over the feet" so we don't fall over. Therefore, I can hinge at my hips until my torso contacts my legs, and yet I'm still standing on my feet...because without even thinking about it my legs and hips flexed in such a way that my butt went backward to counteract the pivot. My CG is essentially unchanged. If I raise my arms in front of me, a small shift happens that also keeps me centered over my feet. I can lift a leg and swing it forward and backward, and do all kinds of things while balancing on one leg, and my wonderful hindbrain causes all kinds of little hip and body shifts so my CG stays nicely centered over that foot. So, often we think we're shifting CG by pivoting some part of our bodies, but in reality our CG is not moving at all, or only very marginally. Otherwise we'd constantly be falling over. The best way to "measure" our own personal CG is to pay attention to the soles of our feet. If pressure is evenly distributed, our bodies are well centered over the feet. If pressure is more on the balls/toes or heel, then CG can truly be said to have shifted. A human standing on two feet without additional support has a very limited ability to shift CG without falling over. Combine that understanding with the foot positioning on the pedals, and you can get a good sense for how rider CG is shifting in relation to wheel/axle. That said, what some on this thread have explained, and which is very important to understand, is that a self-balancing wheel cannot "accelerate sluggishly" and still be self-balancing. It just can't. If you put CG forward of the wheel's axle, the wheel must move forward, very nimbly, to stay under your own CG and keep the pedals level. The more the CG is put forward, the faster the wheel must respond to stay in place. If you're truly "leaning harder" (as in "shifting CG further") during acceleration test B than you were doing during test A, and you didn't fall off the wheel due to "overlean," it means the wheel must have accelerated faster during test B than it did during test A. If it seems that acceleration was the same between the two tests, there are only two possible explanations: either perception of acceleration was wrong, or perception of CG shift was wrong.
  11. Just a quick check-in, without too much to report: I've commuted to work (17 miles round trip) a few times now, and still suffer a little bit of "performance anxiety" about being among car traffic. When I'm at an intersection waiting for a left turn, I keep looking down at my foot position next to the wheel and visualizing how I will perfectly mount when the time comes, instead of stumbling/fumbling. Despite the anxiety, there have been no mishaps or false starts, and my confidence continues to increase. In fact, there was one potential nightmare moment where I stopped at a pedestrian trail crossing because despite having a green pedestrian light a driver was rolling into a right turn in front of me, but then just as my foot came down the driver saw me, stopped, and started waving at me to go. I waved at him to go instead, but he was insistent, so I felt compelled to immediately remount under pressure and cross the intersection. It was an imperfect mount with my foot coming down way too far forward on the pedal, and the wheel initially swerved off to the right, but I instinctively swung the wheel back around to the right path and adjusted my balance to account for the forward foot, and got across the intersection with some grace before carefully shuffling the foot into proper position and continuing on my way. Last weekend I had an opportunity to ride the wheel on a dry lake bed in southern Oregon, the Alvord Desert. It wasn't completely dry for the season yet, but the eastern half was dry enough. The surface is super flat and smooth, almost like cement (although more dusty). People like going there to speed across the playa at 100mph. Well, I "sped" across the playa at the fastest speed I felt comfortable at, around 25mph, and explored the length and breadth of the dry portions of the lake for over an hour before returning to my campsite. Even the pretty massive KS18XL is a very portable mobility solution to take along on a camping trip, at least a "car camping" trip (not when hiking, obviously). I've made the final speed settings adjustments: alarm1 and alarm2 is disabled, and alarm3 is set to 28mph. with tiltback at its maximum of 31mph, although I've yet to exceed 25mph even on downhill sections. My current pedal calibration position is back to level, although I'm thinking maybe 1-2 degrees rearward angle might be best (after trying more extreme rearward angles and not liking the "dips" during turns). I kind of like rearward angle on the pedals, but at more extreme angles my ankles get a little angry at me after a while. Riding mode is set to "firm," which I think I like best. Still get some wobbles, but they seem to self-dampen instead of rapidly escalating into a "thrum" as was the case early on. I no longer feel like I'm losing control when it wobbles a bit, although at times it's frustrating to get a stronger wobble that's unexpected and doesn't self-dampen, especially on downhill portions. It's interesting how the "wobbliness" changes with different forward/rear foot positions, lower leg angles, and road grades...so basically with different relative positions of rider CG vs. wheel CG vs. wheel pivot (contact patch with the ground). Right now I'm contemplating whether it's a good idea to ride to work on the wheel tomorrow, even though there's a chance of showers that increases in the afternoon. I've avoided riding in rain so far, although I have appropriate gear I can wear. I'd prefer not to drive the car, and don't want to ride the bike because I'm saving my quads and tender areas in preparation for a grueling 84-mile training bike ride on Saturday. Hmm.
  12. When do you think you'll feel ready to take the bubble wrap off the wheel? If you're feeling ready for 8+ mile trails, I'm guessing you don't get a lot of "unscheduled dismounts" anymore, so maybe soon?
  13. Take a look at your charger brick's data plate, which will say something about input/output specs. The Segway MiniPro is a 60V wheel, and its standard charger (based on specs I found online, so take with a big grain of salt) gives 1.9A at 59.6V. To make this easier for my brain let's say it's 2A, which makes is a 120W (max) charger. There's some loss in the AC-to-DC conversion, so let's say that it draws 1.2A at 120VAC (so let's call it 140W) from a household power socket. So, you need a battery pack that supplies at least 140W continuous at 120V, and that has a total capacity that is equal to what you think of as a good top-off for the wheel "in the field." This is a 310Wh wheel (right?), so if you want to carry around one full recharge I'd recommend a 400Wh battery pack. There, that gives you something to shoot for: at least 400Wh capacity with at least 140W continuous output. I believe most of these "AC output" batter packs actually don't bother to invert the power to AC, they just output DC instead, because modern switching power supplies don't care. Still, it's worth nothing that you're not getting "normal" AC power output from one of these, so if at all possible give it a try with your charger to make sure it does indeed work correctly.
  14. I have also had absolutely no problems with the KS app in the 4 weeks I've owned the KS18XL. This includes performing a firmware upgrade to 1.12. The app always connects, is able to change all parameters including speed alarms, riding mode, lights, etc. It has fit/finish problems and horrible English translation of the UI, and the initial sign-up process took several attempts to get a valid login going (required), but other than that it functions fine for me. I am on 1.12 and the speed can't be adjusted above 31mph (I have the app set to use miles instead of kilometers), which is the same 50km/h it's always been for the KS18L/XL.
  15. Is 167Wh enough to make a difference? I'm guessing you'd be lucky to get 130Wh or so out of the thing, given inverter efficiency losses, and at 100W continuous this could only drive a pretty small charger brick, leading to slow charge rate. I think that anything capable of providing significant top-off capabilities to a wheel will be quite a heavy beast to carry around while riding.
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