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Showing most liked content on 11/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
    Got myself a used Mten3 512Wh at a pretty good price, pretty beat up, but fully functional (sans one LED dot not working). This wheel is a different kind of fun than say a Nikola 100V or Monster 100V. It's strengths lie in tricks, dips and perhaps skate parks, not straightaways like my other two wheels. With that said, I managed to make this wheel pedal dip forward from overleaning at 24 MPH nearly faceplanting (Nikola 100V spoiled me in this regard), however even with hard sustained runs riding the beeps, I managed to get a paltry 6.3 miles of range from 97% to 30%. That's boosted levels of range! The wheel calls for a different type of action contrary to both my Nikola and Monster, where both of these larger wheels beg to be carved, this wheel begs to be rocked back and forth (having a hard time articulating this phenomenon). Will try again riding the wheel a little less aggressive tomorrow. It wasn't designed to be a speed demon, but I need to unlearn the riding profile of my 100V wheels in order to fully appreciate what this wheel is.
  2. 2 likes
    Ah Marty I don’t issue failing grades. Ok..if you look closely at the first photo one of the motor wires is in direct contact with the sharp metal heat sink. On the second photo the hall sensor wire bundle is stretched to capacity due to the new board‘s connector placements preventing me from routing the wires properly along the handle. The wires are also sitting directly on top of the sharp heat sink. Same thing goes with the + - battery wires. I’m concerned vibration will eventually abrade the wire’s insulation. The repurposed board may be superior to it’s predecessor but there are suboptimal wire management issues resulting from the new PCB connector placements. The strain on the wires and/or abrasion from contacting the heat sink could result in a major short circuit. I’ll need to further insulate/pad these wires before reassembly but I wanted to warn anyone else replacing their Mten3 board to be cognizant of these areas of concern.
  3. 2 likes
  4. 2 likes
    If this is a test, I failed What's wrong with it?
  5. 1 like
    I’ll probably be opening the motor of my KS18XL soon, and might as well replace the bearings with some quality brand. There doesn’t seem to be any size référence around. Anyone knows the size / reference of the ball bearings for the 18XL? It would be great if I had them before the operation.
  6. 1 like
    There are two standard 6203RS bearing - one per side.
  7. 1 like
    *shrugs* You might want to put some air in there! Any tire will eventually rip if it flexes too much. I like a softish tire myself but I’d consider 1.5 bars suitable for just trollying the wheel without a rider... I weigh 100kg and I settled at 2.4 bars. 2.2 is passable for me but already quite soft. Maybe try 2.0 bars if you are a light rider? I guess it doesn’t rain in China. 18x3.0 is a rare size for (e-)bike tires, and there still aren’t many choices available. C-186 is a full-blown motorcycle tire and not the best universal choice imo. H-666 would’ve been a killer though, and it is available in 18x3.0. Could be that the width would’ve required extra work with the shell design. Or it would’ve cost $1 more. Or maybe they just didn’t test the original very thoroughly.
  8. 1 like
    84v please! With a buy one get a second $100 off so I can get two 🙂
  9. 1 like
    Hi, I just returned from my first attempt at riding an EUC. I've never ridden an electric vehicle of any kind besides a hybrid car, and I've only seen a glimpse of a EUC in the wild. I've been riding a 36"-wheeled unicycle for ~20 years, though. For me, the thrill is in forgetting my legs are working away, and feeling as though I'm floating along the ground. I can usually maintain 12-15 mph, with bursts up to 18ish. Now I have an 84v MSX. I was able to freemount after 10 minutes and ride 2 km around a parking lot. It's an entirely different muscle group used for EUCs, and it feels like someone took a sledgehammer to my shins. Taming the wobbles was a good exercise in relaxation. Once I got cruising, it was obvious that this does capture that feeling of floating, but now with the responsibility of 2+ horsepower and 1.6 kWh. It almost feels like I'm exploiting a GoBot that's stuck between forms. Anyway, what a time to have a vestibular system! Cool community y'all got here.
  10. 1 like
    I have 1st n 2nd alarm disabled and I set tiltback to 45kph. I get the 3rd alarm on flat ground before tiltback but going down hill on a full charge I dont want to exceed the advertised top speed. Having on the 3rd alarm which is charge dependant and speed mean anytime I hear a beep I slow down a little. Where I do most of my riding is pretty smooth though so there are times, especially with no wind or a slight tail wind, where the 3rd alarm comes as a surprise because it really doesnt aeem like your going that fast. In places where it's more bumpy or unfamiliar I'm usually only going 12 to 18mph. The known paths that are perfect is the only place I cruise just under the 3rd alarm. For me, Foot placement is a bit touchy too. Too far back and it'll wobble durring normal riding and too far forward it'll wobble under breaking. I have about the same amount of overhang with my toes and heals. Back to alarms (sorry for the tangent haha) I like it set up with only the 3rd alarm. If it makes a noise just slow down. I do a lot if rides where I never hear it beep at all since conditions do need to be pretty ideal to go that fast on such a small wheel.
  11. 1 like
    yeah, most paddings are terrible. This kind of padding (also sold here) helps a lot. I couldn't really live without and that is after 15,000km.
  12. 1 like
    y'all; just looking for confirmation that this is the proper storage method to follow: - i have discharged my tesla V2 down to 50% (as i have gathered from prev postings on this site) - this will allow my wheel to be stored without affecting the battery's charging capacity. the storage space is 'heated' but the temperature range is basically from 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit) to 15 degrees Celsius (60 degrees Fahrenheit). the storage period is from end of november to early april. the euc is brand new, only ridden a few hundred feet to test unit - its all okay. i will drop by once a month to check the voltage and charge it up abit if needed - but not above 50%. so, will this be the best procedure to follow for winter storage of the unit ? thanx in advance, bpong
  13. 1 like
    What you suggest seems to be that increasing speed increases the charge current. That is not at all surprising. It doesn't tell us though which speed maximizes the overall battery charge when you reach the foot of the mountain. Here is a funny thing: what if you brake further and approach (and reach) zero speed? In this case, obviously, the current must have been reversed somewhere during the process of slowing down, because we know that to keep the wheel at standstill at a slope consumes energy (like the additional power needed to go the hill up backwards, namely, a force of sine(slope angle) x weight must be created). That's an(other) example of non-regenerative braking.
  14. 1 like
    Hey can you explain the beeps? I know 1st alarm is 2 beeps. 2nd alarm is 3 beeps. What are the beep patterns and when after that? You must have to disable tiltback which is limited to 36 kph (22.4 mph) per the app, if you are going 26 mph? Not that I plan to do that, but I want to know.
  15. 1 like
    So since I have joined this forum I have found that @mrelwood to be the undisputed guru of gurus when it comes to tire choices and knowledge and testing. So with that cleared I will start off with the first question in this new advice thread. I am fully aware that feel and preferences are personal and not always the same from one rider to another. As to his previous advice he made this attached spreadsheet file to get suggestions to tire pressure. File: EUC Tire Pressure (1).xlsx So here goes.... @mrelwood what do you suggest as a nordic winter season tire for a V10f (default 16"x2.5")? Expected condition: Dry, rain light snow and icy-patchedroads roads. Temperatures range +5 to -10 degrees Celsius. Note: I rode my KS18L almost every day last winter, beside 2 days with heavy melting wet snow (I don't have the proper English word for it) and 1 wheel that was very cold, like - 10 or more (or actually lower 😉❄️, so I recalled it)
  16. 1 like
    After many miles its crazy how well the mcm5 rides even on the beep with a full charge. At my weight that's 26 mph or so. It will still cruise at 23 to 24 mph at half battery under load too. Smooth pathways are key of course! Glad your enjoying the wheel!
  17. 1 like
    How I wish I had £1700 free! Best of luck on the sale mate.
  18. 1 like
    I had fun riding my wheel around the house last winter until I was stopped by an angry old lady with a vacuum cleaner. ... You would not believe the claims she made about where she would store my wheel if she caught me on the thing in the house again. .... I would rather get stopped by the COPs. This lady was MEAN!! ... Although I don’t believe the area that she intended to store my wheel would be large enough I did not want to find out .....And besides the judge says that If I make her mad enough she gets to take half my stuff.... So I had to stop riding indoors. Luckily we don’t get much snow here and I can dress up well enough to ride outside. ... ....Having to commute by foot all the way from the couch to the refrigerator is a real drag. ... Maybe I will put wheels and a motor on my recliner like they do on YouTube. ....Or maybe I will get one of those college refrigerators to put beside my chair. Anyways .... Have a great winter!!
  19. 1 like
    Any "positive" log/observation can just harden a hypothesis a bit more - but not confirm it. They are just no disproofs. I searched for one of my quite old logs of a KS16C/?S? ride: Although the KS16C/?S? in these times did not report negative(regenerative) currents, one sees here nicely braking maneuvers which draw energy from the battery - voltage drop while speed drops. So at least this wheel had non regenerative breaking implemented. ... and here a second one with almost 40A regenerative breaking with the same wheel/same ride. Which is an quite crazy peak charging current for a 4p battery...
  20. 1 like
    Onewheel is the number one choice of people who are not aware that EUCs exist. Onewheel: Combining the inferiority of a flat wheel with the inferiority of a small wheel; coupled to an under-powered motor and a diminutive battery. Yet still more expensive than an EUC because all those banner ads must be paid for somehow. EUC is a triumph of engineering; onewheel is a triumph of marketing.
  21. 1 like
    Hi @Seba, Sorry for always replying like a month late!! So they told me they actually did that. They checked the board, if it was leaking power or not, if there was a short.. I hope they checked it right! What I might not have mentioned in this thread is that the wheel had been without a full charge for about 3000km. That was because I had a faulty charger that couldn't reach 67,2V. And I didn't bother. Now I fully balance after 5-10 partial charges with a charger that works. So far, so good :))) Best,
  22. 1 like
    I would camp out to be first in line to purchase a 100volt Mten3
  23. 1 like
    Thanks Mike, I'm back to riding for the sheer pleasure. As a downhill skier I relish cruising and carving without having to stop to take (or pay for) a lift back up, and I enjoy the all-season unlimited terrain. Thanks to your investigative effort I now know what to expect re the tilt/beeps and don't plan on pushing the envelope, just keep on having fun and feeling lucky!
  24. 1 like
    16x tuli vähän yli kahdessa viikossa. 57km on tullut ajeltua eilisen illan ja tämän päivän aikana. On tosiaan hieman erilainen ja epävakaampi (ja ketterämpi) ajaa kun pedaalit on tavallista ylempänä mutta siihen tottuu aika nopeesti. Myyjä laittoi kaupan päälle 5A laturin. Aivan huippulaadukkaan sellaisen. Tuntuu aivan laaduttomalta ja heikolta. Lisäksi kevyt kuin mikä. Napaisuus ja jännite oli sentään oikein, mutta en ole vielä uskaltanut tuolla ladata. Mitä luulette voiskohan tuolla ladata jos liimais kotelon kiinni vai tilaanko suoraan jonkun laadukkaamman? Eroja 18xl:ään: - Epävakaampi - Ketterämpi - vähemmän vääntöa kovassa vauhdissa - Pedaalit kääntyy todella paljon helpommin kiinni ja auki magneettikiinnityksen takia. - Melkein mahdotonta saada pedaaleja osumaan maahan ajon aikana. - Vain edessä lamppu. Takana heijastin. - Tyylikkäämmän näkönen Kokeilin ottaa toisen puolen auki ja suunnittelin jo, että tiivistän tän täysin tiiviiksi silikonilla. Vesitiiviyshän tässä on todella huono muitten kokemusten/arvostelujen perusteella.
  25. 1 like
    This is my personal opinion and may be contentious (saying this just so nobody complains), but I have to be clear here: Get rid of the kiddie wheel and get a Tesla! The difference between a V8 and Tesla is the difference between a fun-but-limited toy and a serious performance wheel. The Tesla is not simply a little heavier wheel with a higher top speed. It's a completely different level of ride (and safety!), despite the design being 2 years old now (still over a year younger than the V8). Doesn't sound like you realize it's not just a faster V8. It is an entirely different beast. The V8 is for people who want low weight (and price), period. Then they have to live with low speeds and a low safety margin, and must be lighter than the average rider. A Tesla will hold for as long as any other wheel: besides mechanical damage you do to it, there's no concern. So stop wasting your time contemplating if you should upgrade, and do so quickly! I'd maybe recommend a newer wheel like an MSX, Nikola, 16X, 18XL; but if you want a lower weight than these fatties and a more manageable size, the Tesla makes more sense for you. (There's literally only one reason not to upgrade right now: in a few months, we might see Gotway's new city-commuter type of wheel (16 incher, slimmer and presumably lighter than the Nikola). This may be a Tesla successor, or more of a sidegrade. It's the only reason not to order a Tesla today.)
  26. 1 like
    I would skip both of them all together, and get the one you really want - say a 16x, or Nikola+. Like you, I was agonizing over a “beginner“ model – (just search my posts). I decided to take the plunge, and buy a Nikola+ from a fellow member. (Thanks @Nick McCutcheon!) It took me about 15 minutes to figure out, and in two days I have put over 20 miles on it. I’m in love! Had I bought a beginner model, I’d be annoyed with its 12 mph or whatever top speed and stuck trying to sell it for a loss. I would also recommend buying a used one, because you will drop it :-)
  27. 1 like
    Yep, its a bit of a pain but once done its never moved. I run mine about 1.5 degree tilted back. This is the vid:
  28. 1 like
    I just have to comment on this... I can’t stand still for 10 minutes before discomfort starts to turn into pain. But I can quite easily ride an EUC for an hour, often even two. I don’t understand it that well myself, but I guess the constant motion from bumps, curbs etc combined with the vibration keeps the circulation and other fluids going in my legs. And adrenaline, hdopamine and endorphine drowns the pain. So don’t worry if you can’t stand still for an hour! You will likely still be able to ride for as long. Eventually, that is.
  29. 1 like
    As an owner of the original Tesla, it's still going strong. I know people who have put a lot more than 5000-km on theirs. Realistically, the tire (and tube) are the only consumables in the our wheels (including the Tesla). As stated above, most wheels will outlive your interest in riding them.
  30. 1 like
    A heavy wheel will be painful to learn on. The same way a motorcyclist will not really be super confident starting out on a heavy motorcycle rather than going light to heavier incrementally, getting the basic feel before hanging a giant load on the "back". That being said it shouldn't be a problem as long as you are committed to learning. The monster is a great long distance wheel but must be awful at maneuverability at slow speeds. (I never tried one) Try to decide upon the range you are realistically going to need assuming you've learned how to ride and enjoy it. Can you stand up for 2 hours without pain in your feet from all the shaking? If you can't there is no reason for buying a 3000Wh wheel. Neither for going to the supermarket or your friends home. Are you going to walk up stairs? Then a 25kg wheel might not be ideal. Do you weigh 100kg or 60kg? There are usually very different requirements for those two riders. A 16" wheel is quite stable for a small rider. But an 18" wheel could be too twitchy (small) for a very large rider. It depends on you and your style, which is hard to predict what it's going to be.
  31. 1 like
    I took @Mark Lee up and around Overheat Hill today (everyone's wheel survived). Gorgeous scenery today as a storm system was entering Southern California (first rain in 6-months). And here we are celebrating the climb to the top of Overheat Hill
  32. 1 like
    Sounds good to me. The Tesla V2 does not have any other requirements that I am aware of. Some wheels have a slow battery drain but not the Tesla. The only additional advice would to be to store it on a stand so that the tire will not flat spot.
  33. 1 like
    Hej! Is there any business or person in Stockholm willing to rent out one or hopefully two EUCs for the week between Xmas and New Year's? My g/f and I are both avid riders in our 30s from overseas and work at a convention event downtown every year around that time just a few blocks from the T-Centralen. (Not to mention downtown Stockholm would be such a beautiful city to see by EUC.) With over 3k miles under my belt just in the past year, I've owned and/or regularly used (and she has ridden/is familiar with as well) each of the following: V8, V10F, KS16S, KS18XL, & my latest, a Nikola+ 100v, so we'd be comfortable on pretty much anything. (Honestly some old V8's or KS14/16S's would be more than adequate for our needs--although we wouldn't complain about something larger.) Any help would be greatly appreciated! :-) Tack!
  34. 1 like
    Had some fun on the lake today! Also wiped out twice, but as long as you turn very carefully it's ok.
  35. 1 like
    As the saying goes, you can't have the cake and eat it too. Energy one spends on moving one cannot use for regen, obviously.
  36. 1 like
    At top of the hill start your EUC app, whatever it is. You just need voltage readout. Wait a while to let the voltage stabilize. Start riding downhill, but keep speed at about 15-20 km/h. You will soon realize that voltage goes up noticeably higher than voltage you've seen before ride. This is because when going downhill, your engine acts as a generator. It will convert mechanical energy from braking to electric power that charge the battery. Electric engine is reversible machine. It will start rotating when you power it up with electricity. Or vice versa - when you start rotating it, it will produce electricity. Our EUCs work in similar way to this - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pumped-storage_hydroelectricity
  37. 1 like
    It depends on slope and speed. If slope is slight and you're moving at enough speed to generate significant aerodynamic drag, the gravitational "thrust" won't be enough to overcome the resistance, so the motor must work in "drive" mode as usual. If slope is steep and g-thrust is higher than resistance, you are essentually continuously braking, and the motor will be in regen mode. It all can easily be seen by observing the current voltage relative to "resting" voltage. Voltage goes up = you are regenerating/braking.
  38. 1 like
    ...and the losses you would have caused others
  39. 1 like
    @Rehab1 You missed your calling. You should have been in graphic arts or advertising. Think of all the money you wouldn’t have been making.
  40. 1 like
    @Jason McNeil ‘s going to kill me for this! Only kidding! Please don’t call Ewheels!!!!!!
  41. 1 like
    Dear thread initiator, We are curios to see what you choose in the end ...and from where.... (I know that many ask what to buy but very few will actually post what have been chosen in the end)
  42. 1 like
    Buy both. Monster is for long journeys and not very handy for commuting in Urban areas, MSX is a dream to drive and smaller.
  43. 1 like
    I bought a MSX as my first euc and I do not regret it. I never stood on an electric longboard or on any other skateboard. After 1 or 2 hours of training along a wall I drove 2 km on a gravel road.
  44. 1 like
    Considering you WILL drop that wheel, I’d evaluate the price of a replacement shell for both the MSX and monster; they run around $500 for a full replacement. Considering you can learn on a dirt cheap wheel for $300 and resell it for the same or a few bucks less, i’d strongly consider going that route.
  45. 1 like
    So yesterday i went to Blackpool and met the guy who won kuji giveaway (ks16x) He said the wheels not right i can't go above 20mph without it wobbling it just wobbles all the time I said not you as well there's been so many complaints about this , so then i was eager to try it and find out the problems of some wheels behaviour,,, he has the same tyre as mine CX ,, I lifted it up and it didn't run as true as my own, i think the tyre needed reseating ( it was only slight out and that was holding it in the air which always looks worse than it is) Anyway...i rode it😬 Guess what... Perfect ,,, same as mine no wobbles,i did fast acceleration fast brakes, ride it up and down ,, still perfect,,, fastest i ride usually is 28mph but mostly over 20s but no wobble issue what's so ever 👍 At the same time i was riding his he rode mine,, yes you guessed it wobbled lol😁 he said yours wobbles to,, i said neither wobbles you just have adjust to it (he's about 70kg) Maybe it's my weight 200lbs or because I've got the z10 which also had complaints about wobbles when it first came out i dunno🤔 Not every wheel will ride the same,,, I'm not saying i don't get wobbles i do,,, but then again i get them with every wheel at some point but this is where your body/brain needs to adjust to them i don't even think about it if it happens something clicks in my brain and then adjust my feet/lean/brake/accelerate all in a split second , I'm glad I've ridden a wheel with a big wobble issue which ended up with no wobble issue, I'd say the rider has got to give it chance and learn the characteristics of the wheel,, every wheel is different and won't always ride the same, if this was true people wouldn't have so many wheels maybe 😁 Ride it, learn it, and adjust to it 👍
  46. 1 like
    A learner wheel and going straight to the hornets’ nest may both be viable choices. Although, if you are a fast learner, the cheap wheel might be a wheel just for the first week, if even that. While I haven’t gotten to try the Monster, for many it seems to get a lot less riding than their 16-18” wheels. I would think that in order to push the need for a second wheel as far to the future as possible, one should go for a universal model. The best of the bunch being the llatest version of the MSX, Nikola, 18XL, or 16X.
  47. 1 like
    if you already ride some other electric vehicles you already know the feeling... my fist wheel is KS18XL and in about two hours I was riding it 20m straight My recommendation for your is to get a MSX with 1800wh battery... Build your day-to-day use case and share it with us and will make better recommendations for you.
  48. 1 like
    Hi - not to be a contrarian, but there are a lot of folks who spend quite a bit of money on a wheel before they learn how to ride and find they either don't like it, lack the patience to ride competently, or find their particular riding style differs from the type of wheel they buy. The solution, in my view, is to buy a cheap used wheel that you don't feel bad bashing around as you learn. Once you are competent, then reward your efforts with the best wheel you can afford that suits your riding style. There are many used wheels available in the private sales section of this forum. Humbly suggest you start small on a well-used wheel and then get your dream ride when you figure out what you want. Either way - good luck and ride safely!
  49. 1 like
    I've been using the IPS I5 for two years already, and I really love its small size and light weight, while at the same time it can do reasonably stable ride on a normal pavement road. However, I do not see IPS coming up with newer products for this segment of the EUC, while other manufacturers continue to come out with bigger and more powerful and faster but heavier wheels. Even the Gotway Mtem3 has been out for over two years. I just want to give a thumbs up to IPS for making this great product and wish they can continue.
  50. 1 like
    Error is 18 is that wire below the controller and battery are having issues and you need to take apart the unit and look at those wires, check for wear and tear. you might have a short on one of the 3 main wires, the yellow, Blue, Brown. (could be different colors, depending on what manufacture date is ) as for the rest, the symptoms tend to point to the controller board and could be the main fuse is failing (common problem) . This fix is not for casual people, you will need to remove this item and then resolder a replacement . This 'B' item is a high-speed 125 mA self-resetting fuse. This degrades over time and needs to be replaced. when you turn the light on it causes more power draw and causes this to constantly set and reset, slower speed and lockups on getting to hot You could just build a solder bridge across the points, but this will increase your chances of a complete controller board burn-out. Its has been done and it will work but you really should order the replacement fuse and solder that. You will need long pointed tweezers to get this one off the board.
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