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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Yeah, that's what I thought too. Useless fall, not even any data was collected!
  2. 1 point
    Slime is effective against small punctures (small nails, thorns, staples, etc) and has saved me from fixing many flats. It has provide itself with many other riders too. Slime can be a bit of a hit-and-miss, but I see no downside but plenty of upside to its use. Snakebites, along with being near the rim as @mrelwood states, are also typically much larger than the puncture that Slime was designed for. Snakebite punctures can often resemble small slits, which Slime cannot fix. The best fix for snakebite punctures is prevention: use a properly inflated tire.
  3. 1 point
    Correct. Snakebites are high up on the sidewall. Sealants have a hard time reaching there. Did you try to shake the tire so Slime would reach the puncture? Sealants are effective with punctures at the bottom of the tire, so I wouldn’t give up on them. Of course, don’t know what I was thinking. Different manufacturers, different rubbers, different lifetimes. Yet the 16S original, Kenda, is (or was) widely used for some reason.
  4. 1 point
    Yes Mrelwood, top pic is 16s had 50 km on it when I bought it. That was the original tire.
  5. 1 point
    All this talk about exploring paved mountain roads, closed to cars, and scenic trails has my juices flowing again. Hopefully I can schedule my contractors around this ride timing. Nothing preventing me from participating, at the moment. The pin location for parking appears behind private gates in google earth. Maybe this location needs an adjustment?
  6. 1 point
    Just had my first crash after 1.6k km on my V8. Dumped me with no warning at close to top speed on a level smooth road with 80% of battery remaining. Not fun. Luckily just a banged up shoulder. Just shows that it can happen at any time. WheelLog attached in case someone wants to poke around. 2019_05_17_17_11_19.csv
  7. 1 point
    I know. And I would but I'm not driving right now. A knucklehead rear ended me April '18. I was driving 55 and he clobbered me, totalling a late model 328i. Knee surgery, physical therapy, etc.. Still haven't settled the case. But, I was born and raised in OC so I'm home again. Exploring on my euc will be a blast though Cheers!
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for the endorsement Marty! Yes, the name Sketch comes from being an art instructor... not a shady character 😂 i have my deposit in on a KS16X. Waiting on hearing from your review. Still tempted to get my first Monster though. We will see. 😁
  9. 1 point
    Are you passionate about EUCs & eScooters, & are seeking a career change? I'm looking for someone to help with the remote support, emails & customer communications. If there's interest, please drop me a line to jason@ewheels.com Requirements: Written fluency: The candidate must possess strong written skills, to cope with getting through the daily support load, while being able to balance volume with offering adequate quality responses. An area for improvement in the Company is the production of tech-notes, knowledge-base, self-help guides & videos for offering help to our Customers solve common problems independently. Technical Proficiency: experience with owning at least one Wheel/eScooter is a necessity. Possess an understanding of current products, what their various strengths & weaknesses are for providing Customers with accurate purchasing advice based on their stated aims & needs. Work Discipline: must be motivated & self-disciplined, working independently, get the work completed without direct supervision. Be able to maintain the various logs—Customer defects, parts shipments, shipping labels, & website ordering system. In addition to being able to adhere to the current processes, help refine/evolve them to yield improvements that will help the business to scale. Evaluating/analyzing key service metrics, including but not limited to, average time to response, success rate of dealing with after-sales problems, repair turnaround time, identifying problems with manufacturing that require further action, etc. Complementary Skills: if the applicant has experience or knowledge in other areas like website work, electronics, video editing or graphics design it would be a plus Location & Citizenship: US Citizens preferred, What eWheels has to Offer: An exciting growth opportunity: at this time, there is no other Company in North America offering the selection & range of Personalized Electric Vehicles (PEVs). It is our goal to maintain & improve the momentum going into 2019, expanding into other areas like eBikes, retails outlets & start with shifting some of the final assembly work to the US. Competitive salary & performance based compensation: we'll be able to offer a decent starting wage, with a bonus structure that is correlated to the value of one's abilities & contribution to building the business. Working Flexibility: choice to work from home or at a co-working office space.
  10. 1 point
    Great prices on both wheels. Would make perfect learning wheels. Ignore his Forum handle name - Matt's not a sketchy character I wonder what wheel you're making room for?
  11. 1 point
    Don't touch the nuts. Just remove the core (the one that comes with the Slime bottle will probably work considering the great access that the Monster provides to the valve) and attach the hose that comes with the Slime bottle. I don't see the need for any kind of angled extension - the flexible Slime hose provides that function. I've never needed an extension on any of my wheels. I put 8-ounces in my Monster.
  12. 1 point
    Necessary elements : - CRYDOM CMX100D10 Solid State Relay - Heat Shrink Tubing - Velcro adhesive tape - Equipment for soldering, cutting and stripping the wires. Warnings: The electrical modification of certain wheel connections developed here is your own responsibility. I disclaim all liability for the warranty, and all kinds of problems that you would have with your wheel during or after this modification. The modification detailed here does not modify the power wiring (XT60 connectors), and no high amplitude current flows in the circuits concerned here. This therefore greatly reduces the risk of an untimely cut off of the wheel. Electrical characteristics measured on the battery communication connector. In the lack of official technical information from Ninebot, I placed an oscilloscope to visualize the electrical signals that pass through the 2-pin connector. On the two communication connector wires, respectively yellow and green, I chose (arbitrarily ...) the green as GND reference. With the wheel started up, the observed signal revealed 20Hz signal with burst of digital frames, sometimes positive, sometimes negative with peak amplitude of about 3V, being renewed every 50ms, but most of the time between the frames, the signal remains at 0V. I did not try to decode them because this is not necessary in order to find a solution to this drain problem When the wheel is in standby state, I observed a slight voltage between yellow and green wires (do not ask me how much, I forgot to note the value!). If you disconnect the 2 pin connector, the voltage delivered by the battery on the electrodes of this 2-pin connector is 3.1VDC. (yellow wire, the ground being on the green wire). It is obviously the presence of this DC voltage which drain the battery over the days, through the input impedance of the motherboard circuits. My idea is to stop the battery communication connection when the wheel is in standby state and restore it when the power is turned on. For that I will use a static relay. This is certainly not the cheapest solution which can be designed for that, but it has the huge advantage that I have already this component. This will be the only electronic device needed. Thus, I use a CRYDOM CMX100D10 solid state relay. This model is largely oversized for my use here, I know. (picture 4) The solid state relay switching electrodes (pins 1 & 2) will be used to cut the yellow wire to the 2-pin battery connector. I chose to take the 5VDC supply voltage that power supply the bluetooth audio card to power also the both "coil" electrodes of the solid state relay (pins 3 & 4). Step 1 - Open the right side of the wheel and disconnect the two XT60 connectors. Step 2 - Open the left side of the wheel, and remove the plastic plate covering the electronic boards compartment. Identification of highlighted wires: The yellow and green wires come from the 2-pin battery connector on the other side of the wheel (picture 1). The twisted cable (picture 2) brings the power supply to the audio card. It will be used to derive the supply voltage of this card. Step 3 - Unplug the white 30-pin connector at the top of the motherboard. This is just recommended to avoid a risk of destruction of this by static electricity during the intervention. (ESD risk) You will then see this: (picture 5). For the same reason, unplug the motherboard-side connector of the twisted cord highlighted in the blue circle (picture 2). Step 4 - Cut the yellow wire that appears on the picture 1 towards the middle. You should have something like picture 3. Step 5 - Disconnect the yellow/red/black 3-pin connector connected to the audio card, then untwist the wires on 2 inches and cut the red and black wires one inch from the connector. (picture 6) Step 6 - Realization of the derivation on each of the red and black wires : Use a piece of black wire about 4 inch (I used a gray one on the photo). Solder the three black wires together. Insert a heat-shrink sleeve before solder the three black wires together. (picture 7) Step 7 - Do the same with the red wire using a piece of red wire about 4 inch long. You then see something similar to the picture 8. Step 8 - Glue the piece of Velcro tape to the static relay as shown in picture 9, and the other one on the plastic shell. Step 9 - Solder the free end of the red wire that you have prepared on the terminal 3 of the relay, and do the same with the end of the black wire (mine is gray on the photo...) on the terminal 4. Remember to put on heat-shrink sleeves before soldering. Step 10 - Now it is a matter of extending both ends of the wire cutted in step 4. If you have yellow wire use it otherwise any other color will do the trick ... Strip the end of the yellow wire connected to the white connector 30-pin, and solder a 4 inch long wire. Place two heat-shrink sleeves and then solder after shortening to the required length the free end of the wire to the relay terminal 2. Step 11 - Do the same by connecting the other cutted yellow wire end from the rubber cable clamp to the relay terminal 1. Step 12 - Place heat-shrink tubing and heat. (picture 10) Don't do like me: don't forget to reconnect the 30-pin connector before power up the wheel ... OOOOOO Reconnect both ends of the audio card cable as well. Close the wheel without forgetting to reconnect the XT60 connectors of the battery. First report of test… After 50 hours, the average voltage drop is 0,025V The voltage loss is 0,500mV/h. 50 hours is too short to obtain a better precision, but it is the value I expected ! This fix works fine.
  13. 1 point
    I feel like a neophyte.
  14. 1 point
    My 4 crashes on EUC: 1) Was texting during driving and did not notice a speed bump. Pain level: moderate 2) Decelerated too quickly so the wheel was overloaded and shut down. Pain level: moderate 3) Accelerated too quickly so the wheel was overloaded and shut down. Pain level: low 4) Was distracted and did not notice a pothole. Pain level: none. Not really a crash. I was able to run off it. Total loses (holes in them): 1 jeans, 1 hoodie, a pair of gloves, coat
  15. 1 point
    Since the standby drain tests released here last month, I've been trying to figure out exactly where this current is going to drain the battery during a few weeks, in order to create a fix. So I used the same method of measurement over long periods of time to get a sufficient accuracy. As a reminder, the previous measurements had shown a discharge rate of the battery by a ten factor when its terminals are completely disconnected, by all its ports. (voltage loss approx. 0.468mV/h) In this state, only the BMS drains the battery and can be expected to completely empty it in more than 30 months. (3 to 4 months x10) I tried to find out which of the battery connections induces most of this external drain. With XT60 connectors connected ; 2-pin and 4-pin connectors disconnected : After 14 days 5h 20', the average voltage of my batteries dropped by 0.175V The voltage loss is 0.012V/day, so 0.513mV/h. It is therefore clear that the battery drain is not caused by the power connectors, which opens the way to a easy fix to implement. With XT60 connectors and the 4-pin charge connector connected ; 2-pin battery communication connector disconnected : After 9 days exactly, the average voltage of my batteries dropped by 0.09V The voltage loss is 0.01V/day, so 0.416mV/h. The 4-pin connector (charging connector) does not induce current leakage either. It is therefore easy to conclude that the external losses to the battery only flows through the 2-pin communication connector. My graph has not changed much, it is just a little more precise (or not...): With these conclusions, I just implemented and test an electronic patch to reduce very strongly (by a 10 factor) this battery drain, which brings it back to an acceptable value. I post this in a new topic :
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Had someone try and jump out in front me to cause an accident yesterday....I just quickly broke and swerved around them as they yelled something at me and laughed. There are a lot of broken jealous people in this world. My best advice is to record everything. It's rare that something will happen, but when it does it will most likely be the other party's fault and it will be something illegal they do or try to do. Video evidence will make it clear they are lying. I used to enjoy walking everywhere before I got my first wheel, but the amount of times people in cars never stop for the walking cross sign was staggering. Pretty much 80% in the turning lane look left for traffic do a rolling stop and punch the gas (I've been hit 2 times walking). And people with a green light but no green turning light? Forget about it, doesn't matter if you're a pregnant mom pushing a stroller with full right of way walk sign....they are going to plow through you as they text on their phone. And then really old people just flat out suck at driving they constantly break half the laws when they are driving, if I see an old person in a car I just assume they are going to run a stop sign or a red light, or just not give a crap about pedestrian crossings. Plus they stare while driving, and almost cause accidents in the process for not paying attention. Here in Dayton there are very public and welcoming laws for bikes to share the roads with cars, but still cyclist will stick to sidewalks and only bike paths when necessary. Even though it's illegal in Ohio to ride on most sidewalks they have to do this because they know how dangerous and careless most drivers are....and most are so dumb they don;t know the laws and think running a cyclist off the road is a righteous thing to do. Most cops allow cyclist and e-users to ride wherever (within reason) because they know that motorists are terrible about paying attention and knowing bike laws. I know in Columbus and Cincy have welcomed BIRD and Lime. Allowed them to be ridden on the sidewalk at first, but now say it's only legal on the street and cycle paths.
  18. 1 point
    Tucks Point - Manchester by the Sea
  19. 1 point
    Only just uploaded this vid I did a couple of weeks back. Not a patch on the usual quality/content you find in this thread and perhaps a little monotonous but I am so excited I had to share. Eucs have created a wonderful and massively fun pastime that I can share with my daughter and we are enjoying our time together immensely, exploring and having new experiences in a way that we would never have done before the wheels. God bless the euc! She is really getting confident now, using her knees more and is gaining speed to the point that since this vid we are now armoured up and she uses a full face helmet. Lots for both of us to learn still but it has been amazing seeing her progress from those first hops in the kitchen a few months ago to where she is now. I have a feeling that this summer is going to be awesome My thanks also to all on this forum, you have helped get a new and exciting relationship to a father and daughter
  20. 1 point
    The 3rd alarm is an alarm that tells you you've reached 80% of max power the motor and battery can give you. If you continue to accelerate you will reach 100% and the wheel can/will cut out (to protect itself) and your face gets an intimate meet with the ground You could very quickly need the final 20% to ride out a bump you didn't notice. Here you can see what could happen. This was on a Tesla.
  21. 1 point
    Ich hatte mal einen lustigen Zusammenstoß mit einem Passanten mit etwa 12-16km/h am Ende einer Fußgängerzone - ein relativ junger Obdachloser, der aufgrund seiner Tätigkeit (dem Leuteanschnorren) ziemlich unvermittelt die Richtung änderte und etwa 2m vor mir direkt meinen Weg abschnitt. Ich konnte ihn nur noch umarmen und mich einmal mit ihm im Kreis drehen um den Schwung abzufangen - während das Einrad einfach nach 1m umfiel - dann war ich natürlich direkt mal das nächste Schnorr-Opfer und gab dem Verdutzten 2€ und wir zogen weiter unserer Wege. Das Einrad war irgendwie ganz aussenvor und hat weder jemanden verletzt noch (bis auf mich selbst) zum Stolpern gebracht - ich glaube mit einer Lenkstange in der Hand wäre das in diesem einen speziellen Fall eher hinderlich gewesen ... Ich bin absolut gegen bauartbedingte Leistungsbegrenzungen und ABE-Zwang. Ich wäre maximal für Gewichtsklassenabhängige Versicherungstarife und einzuhaltende Richtgeschwindigkeiten. Richtgeschwindigkeiten werden schließlich auch jedem Sportwagenfahrer zugetraut.
  22. 1 point
    I took the MSX for some exploratory riding, hunting for a new trail up into the mountains. This is a 360 video published in 5.7k resolution. If you have the bandwidth the visuals are pretty impressive for 360.
  23. 1 point
    Found a new trail up into the mountains above Southern California
  24. 1 point
    Follows ruts/grooves/raised edges in the road. The Z is particularly bad imo because of the wide tyre having a greater contact patch with anything that touches either side of the centreline. The wheel wants to steer into whatever contacts the edge of the tyre. You can feel tramlining on the Z even over painted white lines in the road. I dont get this at all with the V5. You get used to it to an extent but it never goes away. Sometimes it can be quite violent. Pumping the tyre up to maximum (or even over) reduces it but the ride is then rock hard. Its the only thing on the Z I dont like (but love the rest of it).
  25. 1 point
    Looks like you guys can look forward to a future of everyone riding Ninebot E+'s
  26. 1 point
    Of course if it's the law, then they can do whatever they do. I'm just expressing my personal opinion that I don't want want anything to do with a wheel that's going to restrict its capabilities based on where I'm riding. My opinion.
  27. 1 point
    In case you didn’t know, the Hillbillies do have a top splint as well. Not made to Flexmeter standards, but I’d think it would do it’s job during most crashes.
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