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  1. 52 likes
    [Split from "Questions about new BT announcement by KS"] Dear @Jack King Song, Would it be possible to disable the confirmation "beeps" for example when starting app, changing wheel settings etc. ? Will there be a possibility to mute beeps? I'm sure many KS users would love to make their wheel silent.
  2. 48 likes
    Last updated: 17 January 2020 Dear fellow riders, as some of you may already know, I'm the guy responsible for EUC World application and online service Whole story began at the beginning of 2019 when I forked WheelLog sources and decided to add some features I missed. One of such features was possibility to track my rides in similar way Strava, Endomondo or Wikiloc works, but with complete wheel telemetry. You know, I wanted to cross my country from northern to southern border, allow my friends to watch me live on the map and show the rest of world that EUCs are not toys Of course even vastly improved WheelLog was not enough, as I needed some online service to save and share my tours with others. I created it and named "World of electric unicycles" and in fact it soon became a real world of electric unicycles - just take a look at the main map I have chosen WheelLog sources as a foundation and initially I just wanted to add features that were useful during my riding. In particular voice announcements and alarms. Really, you should try speed alerts with Bluetooth earphones or helmet comm set! Wind noise will no longer be an issue to hear that you exceeded your preset speed, EUC is near to overheating or just overloaded and faceplant may be iminent. If you love long rides, you'll benefit from periodical speech reports about battery state, mainboard temperature, distance already travelled, time of your ride, average speed etc. I also added other languages thanks to @koto, @ArqFG, @andress, @George Iliev, @Lefteris, @fabio70mi, @travsformation, @Hansolo, @Tazarinho, @DjPanJan and other contributors. Now EUC World has been almost completely rewritten, becoming a completely independent application. Currently EUC World supports following languages: English Catalan Czech French Polish Russian Spanish Bulgarian, Brazilian Portugese, Dutch, Greek, Italian are partially supported (would you like to make updates?) Supported wheels: Gotway (all current models) Inmotion (all current models) King Song (all current models) Ninebot One E+, One S2, Z6, Z8 and Z10 Rockwheel GT16 Solowheel Glide 2 and Glide 3 Supported watches: Android Wear 1.4 and later Wear OS Pebble (using WheelLog watch app) SELECTED EUC WORLD APPLICATION FEATURES NEW IN 1.0.9 Full Gotway support, including calibration, side LED control and tiltback setting up to 75 km/h (may be limited by the wheel). NEW IN 1.0.9 Enforce regulatory compliance action, allowing for simple and quick limiting wheel speed to 20 km/h to be compliant with local regulations. This action, as with other custom actions, can be assiged to Flic button, smartwatch button/screen tap or phone screen tap (works with King Song, Gotway and Inmotion wheels). NEW IN 1.0.9 New custom actions, allowing for easy start/stop/pause/resume tour tracking, start/stop CSV logging, lock/unlock wheel, turn off wheel etc. NEW IN 1.0.9 Speed prealarm, allowing to change low priority speed alarm to prealarm. In this mode there is only repeating beep, there is no "Slow down!" voice warning and when listening to the music, volume is not lowered. NEW IN 1.0.9 Persistent headlamp mode, allowing to remember headlamp mode and restore it on subsequent application start (works with King Song and Gotway wheels). Full King Song support, including speed unlocking, calibration and firmware update. Flic 2 button support - Flic app is no longer needed. Flic 2 has better range, battery longevity and is more reliable that older Flic. CSV logs synchronization with euc.world account, allowing you to safely backup your logs on euc.world server. It also allows you to create tours offline and use data analysis tools. Heart rate monitoring, allowing you to display/hear your current heart rate and also include it during tour tracking or CSV logging. Tour tracking with complete telemetry Speech alarms and prompts - now you can pair your built-in BT speakers, earphones or helmet comm set with your phone and get instant voice alerts, prompts and reports. Wind noise will no longer be a problem and you won't any beep when going over predefined speed. Beeps and voice messages will let you know that you're approaching your wheel limits. User friendly interface - completely reworked and much more friendly user interface, giving more valuable invormations and with better contrast to improve visibility and save your phone battery. Flic button to easy activation of custom actions - now you can pair a small, wireless button with your phone and use it to activate horn, toggle lights in your EUC or get voice message with current riding parameters. You can get your Flic button here. Both Flic and Flic 2 are supported. Motherboard/MOSFET/motor load monitoring - load gauge lets you instantly check how much current is drawn from or put into the battery. If you're agressive rider this feature will let you know when you're near or over predefined load limits of your wheel. Improved overcurrent alarms - now you can have two independent alarms. One for peak value that will let you detect short, large current spikes (eg. during rapid acceleration). Another alarm is for "filtered", sustained current value. This way you can avoid situations when elevated current values may cause mainboard or wiring failure. Overvoltage/overcharge alarm - we all know that during braking or riding downhill our wheels enter regeneration mode. In some cases this may lead to battery overcharging resulting in cutout or battery failure if occurs too often and unnoticed. Now you can get alarm when your battery voltage approaches goes beyond safe limit. Extensive statistics - detailed ride statistics will let you know more about how your wheel rides, how your riding style affects energy efficiency, what power is needed etc. Wear OS (Android Wear) watch support - now you can get almost the same information just on your wrist with Wear OS watch companion app. You can also activate custom actions from your watch, just like when tapping your phone main screen or pressing Flic button. You can also start, pause, resume or finish tour tracking. Watch will also vibrate when any of the alarms is active. Custom horn sounds - you can select any sound from your phone to be used as a horn sound. More, you can have different sounds for Wear OS watch, Pebble watch (yes, they can work in paralell!), main screen tap and Flic button. Picture-in-picture and split-screen support - with Android 8 and newer you can benefit from "piecture-in-picture" and "split-screen" mode. Even if EUC World is in background and you have to switch to desktop or another application, small gauge with most important informations will still be displayed in small window. In split-screen you can display two apps simultaneously. WORLD OF ELECTRIC UNICYCLES - TRACK, ANALYZE AND SHARE YOUR RIDES EUC World allows you to record your rides including your wheel telemetry data. By default, saved routes are not visible to others. You can share them with others (friends, family etc.) by sending them a link. You can also make some routes available to everyone, so they will be visible on the main page and from your signature image. You tour can be live during your epic rides! Euc.world is a great and free alternative to Endomondo or Strava, as it allows you to document your rides along with detailed wheel telemetry (wheel speed, battery charge, voltage, current, power etc.). You don't need to be connected with your wheel to record your rides. Even if your wheel is not supported by EUC World yet, app may still act as a normal GPS tracker. In this case wheel data won't be recorded along your track - that's the only limitation. You can also add photos to your ride. Euc.world online service will be significantly extended withing next weeks. Users will be able to store their CSV logs under their account and will be able to download them or view with my http://wheellogviewer.net/ tool that will be improved and integrated with euc.world. Also some extended statistics will be available for users. HOW TO START USING EUC WORLD APPLICATION AND ONLINE SERVICE? Get your application from Google Play or visit https://euc.world/getapplication Sing up with https://euc.world to create free account. Sign up in EUC World app with credentials used to sign up in previous step. Setup your EUC World according to your preferences. Start riding and enjoy you new app! Last, but not least - don't forget to give me some feedback so I can push this project in right direction. I'd kindly ask you for one thing... If you are going on an interesting route, think about making it visible to everyone. The idea that guided me when I created euc.world online service was to show other people interesting places where you can get on an electric unicycle. So if it doesn't affect your privacy, think about recording some routes in public mode. Add interesting photos, let others see the beauty of the places where you ride on one wheel. This is one of ways we can popularize EUCs. We can show that EUC riders are everywhere! And remember - you can also change visibility. Just log to your account, enter the tour you would like to edit and from "Tour" menu select desired visibility. This way you can make the tour hidden or reverse - one of your beatutiful private tours make visible to everyone!
  3. 41 likes
    There is a similar topic on the Russian EUC forum, and it is gaining popularity due to the frequent contributions of outstanding EUC artist - @Дед62. I got his permission to re-post his work here in the hope that it may inspire other artists and will extend the gallery of our favorite gadget. I believe you will enjoy this creative work. Feel free to post in this topic any other image which you consider to be relevant to "EUC art" Happy EUC Sailor Tricks With Violin Taxi Winter Evening With The Wheel Ambulance Delivery Battle of Kulikovo (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Kulikovo) Parade Beach Towing Services Man and His Friend Icarus Bogatyrs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viktor_Vasnetsov) comments from left to right: - ... what a mess... - ... and where is your power plug, Popovitch? ... - ... mongols fricking stole it again... Medieval Tournament London 1920 The Moving Guy Burlaks (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barge_Haulers_on_the_Volga) all praises go to @Дед62
  4. 38 likes
    The story of how I and two fellow wheel riders became lost in the mountains and lived to ride another day. As I begin this, it must be said that I'm the one with poor judgement in this story. Well intentioned, but... The Cogswell Dam, as I've previously written about, is a gorgeous area to ride an EUC. It's basically a canyon ride on the northern side of a mountain ridge. I've ridden it twice before. Throughout this region are countless trails, large and small. One of the most well known is a four wheel drive capable trail called the Rincon Shortcut OHV Trail. It stretches along the southern side of the ridge that is shared with the Cogswell Dam. The Rincon trail-head starts about an 1/8 mile south of the Cogswell Dam trail-head. Up in the mountains there is a connection between the two, and that's what I've been itching to try. Complete the approximately 30 mile loop that joins the two trails. So I coordinated a group ride for Saturday morning, and my long time riding buddy @jrkline was the first to commit to the ride and not too long afterwards @Ando Melkonyan eagerly committed to the adventure (he had his newly acquired ACM). We were to leave by 9:30am, traversing the southern (Rincon) route first, taking advantage of the coolness of the morning air. Eventually we would meet up with the Cogswell Dam trail high up in the mountains and return by way of the shaded northern trail to avoid the extreme heat of the day. Oh, and today was the peak of a mini heat wave in Southern California, where the temperature was predicted to be in the low 90's. Maybe we should have brought more water. Hmmm. @abinder3 joined us at the very beginning. He didn't have time for the entire route (regardless of his reasons that was a good decision in hindsight) and therefore was just going to ride to the dam and back, about a 20 mile roundtrip. But it was nice that we could all meet at the beginning and share a few stories before we went our separate ways. In the picture above, from left to right: @abinder3 (Allen), @Ando Melkonyan, @jrkline (Jeff), and myself. Don't we look happy - if only we knew what was forthcoming I had my Monster which I had previously ridden here twice before. Jeff had the FrankenACM - I know, I know, his world famous 2040wh ACM. As would be demonstrated throughout the day, his ACM never fails. It may not be pretty but it's a faithful workhorse. And Ando brought his 3 week old ACM with a 2-1/2" tire that he managed to fit on the wheel. He had to cut away parts of the shell to make it fit, but he turned it into a really nice trail machine. We finally began our journey and after a few hundred feet wished Allen well as he exited for his trail head. We continued on the two lane highway until we came upon the locked trail gate, representing the entrance to our grand adventure. After bypassing the gate we began our journey in earnest. On a previous outing to Cogswell Dam I had ridden this part of the trail for a mile or so and was hoping the whole trail would be as I remembered. And for the most part it was, perhaps a little steeper in sections. But remember that this is a four wheel drive trail so certainly any path that a truck can take we can tackle easily on our EUCs. In this video you can see me struggling a bit as the ACMs zoom past me After a few miles of steady uphill climbing I was beginning to think that I should have taken my ACM too instead of the Monster. I've ridden my Monster a lot in the mountains now, but never for extended uphill pushes. We were on a trail that was to continuously climb for over 3500 feet. And this wasn't a paved road. It was gravel and sand mixed with large rocks and various ruts. So there was a lot of maneuvering involved, slips, slides, near stalls, and periodic jump-stops for the wheels. Although I have experience with the Monster and know that it's capable of ascending any hill that the ACM is, it does so extremely slowly and with much effort. As Jeff and Ando zoomed up the trail sections with hardly any physical effort, I was in a near constant crouch and heavy lean. Plus all of the effort required to steer the 70 pound Monster ... But I was hanging in there despite the ridicule coming from my fellow riders ;-) Fairly early on we had our first crash. I must say, anybody who wants to keep their wheel pristine should never do off-road trail riding. It's a messy business. My Monster requires a wide berth and although I always have my trusty helmet mirror, I have some rather large blind spots. Jeff was apparently unaware of these facts. As he was overtaking me on my left I was slowing sliding left. Our pedals locked and in the next moment we were both sprawled on the ground. Jeff's bloodied forearm and my bruised ego provided good entertainment for Ando :-) Here's a couple pictures of the aftermath: We continued the long climb, but I was getting tired. At one point Ando offered me his ACM while he pushed forward with the Monster. And then he proceeded to demonstrate a new technique (to me) for getting the Monster up hills fast. Jeff and I had great fun watching this and I think Ando was having fun to. It looked like he was riding a horse, but indeed it really moved fast. When I started riding the Monster again I used this technique and it really helped. But it was still hard on the body because of the lean, and steering was proving difficult. Eventually I discovered that if I was in a squatting position and squeezing the wheel between my knees, AND using my knees to force the wheel forward, the Monster really moved. This was exhausting however. We were still having a good time, enjoying each others crashes and Ando's music Somewhere near two hours we finally arrived near the peak. I was beat. Now we needed to find the trailhead that led back down to the Cogswell Dam. We came across a lone mountain bike rider that pointed us in the general direction that we needed to take to begin the descent to Cogswell Dam. In the following thumbnail you can see the Dam far below us. Here is where I made the fateful mistake of picking the wrong trail. It went down and looked to be in the general direction, so let's go for it. I really should have spent as long as I needed to be sure, but in the back of my mind I figured if it was wrong we'd probably realize it fairly soon and just backtrack. What I didn't take into consideration was my failing body :-( As we proceeded down this trail it slowly got sketchier and sketchier. First there were small dead falls (trees that fall across a trail) and then bigger and bigger ones where it took minutes to carry and or drag the wheel across. I was getting weaker. I had no more food and none of us had any more water. Remember that I said it was going to be in the 90's today. I felt like I was beginning to get symptoms of dehydration - shaky legs and arms and extreme fatigue. I could only ride 20 feet before I would loose control and had to stop and rest for a few minutes. By this time I had a few more rather severe falls which further hampered my ability to ride the wheel. Besides my difficulties, it had become clear that we were somewhat lost. This was certainly not the trail to the Cogswell Dam. I could simply not go further. At this point I was with Jeff. Ando had explored further along the trail and when he returned he said that he found water (we could hear a stream in the distance below). You don't know how excited I was to hear this. I felt that maybe if I got some water I may recover enough to continue at some level. Jeff took my empty water bottle and disappeared down the trail to return with water. I was feeling a bit mentally refreshed. While Jeff was away Ando and I tried to figure out exactly where we were. I had offline Google maps in my phone and a Garmin 60CS handheld navigator. BTW, GPS reception was not great within these mountains. But we eventually determined our exact location. Miles from the trail that we should have taken. I had arrived at a difficult decision. Like the sailboat captain in the middle of the ocean that grapples with the decision to press the emergency beacon, knowing that when he does so he will be rescued but his boat will be left behind, gone forever. But I knew that I could not continue back uphill to retrace our steps by a few miles and then down another 15 miles. Impossible. So I told Ando to leave me and get back to the area where we made the bad turn. In that area there was a line of site to the greater Los Angeles area and there was cell phone coverage. "Tell them that a person was suffering from exhaustion and dehydration. Call 911". Now by this point at least 15 minutes had passed and Jeff probably should have returned within 10 minutes since Ando knew the water was only 5 minutes away by wheel. But we continued to wait. While doing so Ando took my Monster and rode/carried it up the trail past a few of the sever dead-falls. And then walked back. Amazing, and as you'll learn in a bit, very important that he did so. Still no Jeff. Instead of sending Ando to look for Jeff I suggested that he go the other way, and I'll wait for him. So Ando disappeared with his ACM and I was alone in the middle of what felt like nowhere. I think it was about 3pm at this point. I lay on the ground and was anticipating a bottle of water with great joy. Maybe another fifteen minutes went by. Nothing. Then I started thinking, "Maybe something happened to Jeff. Was there an accident. Did his ACM break". I slowly started walking down the trail. 20 steps and then lay on the ground to recover. 20 steps, lay on the ground. I did this for maybe 15 minutes but realized that if he was hurt or the wheel was broken I was in no condition to help. And I had told Ando that if possible I would try and walk back to the trail junction at the top of the mountain. So I abandoned Jeff and ever so slowly started walking up hill. 20 steps, lay on the ground, ad nausea-um. I still had hopes that Jeff would return with water. I would have given away my Monster for water at that point. It really was horrible. At this incredibly slow pace I managed to get past the large dead-falls. I never would have been able to get my Monster past these obstacles in my condition. Eventually I found my Monster and could not believe how far Ando had taken it for me. I then proceeded to push it and myself up the trail, in spurts of low speed energy. A trolley handle may have helped, but just the effort of pushing the Monster and walking was too much. After maybe an hour I decided to abandon the Monster, knowing that I would never see it again. I wasn't worried about someone finding and taking it. First, nobody sane travels this impassible trail, and if someone did they wouldn't know what it was, and at 70 pounds I don't think they would try and carry it out. No, I would never see it again because I would never be able to get in here to recover it. That would entail hiking 15 - 20 miles which is a long hike on flat ground. I just didn't see myself being able to do that. I marked the location where I did leave it, in my Garmin 60CS thinking that I would post to Facebook and the Forum with the coordinates and anybody who thinks they could retrieve it could keep it. No bad feelings on my part. Anyway, it was load off my mind when I fully committed to never seeing it again. Let that be a strong reminder to what not to do in the future. I continued the painfully slow march. I was worried for my health because I know dehydration can be bad. But I tried not to exhaust myself too much. Walk for a few minutes and then lay down. Walk, lay down. Minutes turned to hours. I was thinking maybe if I eventually got to that magic "cell phone coverage" area that I could call 911 in case Ando wasn't able to. It's amazing what goes through your mind when you can't communicated with people who are trying to help you.What happened to Jeff? Did Ando make it out yet? Knowing where we had last all been together I was thinking positive and assuming that Jeff decided to explore that path beyond the river and went so far that he decided not to return with water. I knew that particular trail wound its way back up to the top of another mountain range to the 2 freeway which then led to civilization. So if he got out he would be able to call. But I had my doubts that we would have enough remaining power to climb another couple thousand feet and maybe 20 miles. I kept think that if I get rescued I'm going to have to tell them about Jeff so that they can search for him next. After maybe 3 hours I came across these maintenance trucks and construction equipment that we had passed on the way down. I opened every truck and door I could get into and FOUND WATER. Two old water bottles with maybe a 1/3 full of water each was an amazing find. First I sniffed it to be sure that they weren't storing fuel and then guzzled them down. Water had never tasted to good. Although it did not help with the exhaustion in my legs, it did help with the thirst and made me feel like I actually wasn't going to collapse somewhere up here in the mountains. I continued to walk, imagining what might be happening with Ando and Jeff. And then of course I was worrying about my wife because in the absolutely worst case I probably should have been home by now. But there was nothing I could do. She did know the general trails that we were taking (at least I got one thing right), but it would probably be very dark before she pulled the trigger and called 911. So I was still prepared for a very much longer day and night. Dusk was approaching when I started to hear a helicopter somewhere in the distance. That was the first mechanical sound I had heard for hours. I thought I heard a plane too. I did see the helicopter at one point but it was miles in the distance. Amazingly I had made it back to trail junction where we made the bad turn. And then I heard and saw a large search and rescue type helicopter hovering over me, but very high. I was in an area where there were power line towers (thus the maintenance equipment found earlier) plus I'm sure they generally stay far above the trees. I waived both my hands for a little bit and then it moved off to the distance a bit and hovered again. Then it left. "Well, that's it. I've been found and now help will be on the way". That was a huge psychological lift for me. So I continued to walk, and walk, and walk. It was now totally dark, after 8pm. Fortunately I had small pen flashlight so I could see the path in front of me. No longer fearing collapse from dehydration I could start contemplating coming across bears or mountain lions, both of which live in these mountains. What joy! I then spotted a brief flash of light followed shortly by a truck rounding the corner ahead. You can imagine what I thought at that sight. It eventually slowed to a stop beside me and I was asked my name (I guess they didn't want to pick up the wrong guy) and let me in the truck. There were four uniformed men in there, all volunteers for the Sierra Mountain Search and Rescue. They gave me all the water I wanted and bagged peanuts. Life was good. Shortly after I got in the crowded vehicle I asked if they happened to know about any other ..., and before I could complete the sentence they told me that all three people have now been accounted for. So Jeff was alive ;-) I assumed Ando was good because otherwise I probably wouldn't be sitting in the truck at the top of the mountain. Now get this, they then asked me, "do you want to go get your 'bike'?" Are you kidding me? I tried to suggest that I didn't want to put them through the trouble (I really didn't), but they insisted. They said that they were already up there so why not. It probably took another half an hour and a locked gate to get within a few hundred feet of where I left it. The last bit had to be walked since the trail conditions were too severe for the truck. So I actually got my Monster back. It felt like I just received a new wheel because in my mind I given it up for lost. As we drove down the mountain for the next 1-1/2 hours I learned that Jeff had been recovered on the 2 freeway, and Ando was the one that called it in. Eventually I met up with Jeff as we were brought together at the base of the mountain to be driven back to our vehicles (20 miles away). There Jeff told me how he amazing made it back up to the highway on the other side of the mountain range and then down towards town, almost on a zero battery charge. His 2040wh ACM truly has been an amazing wheel. I also learned from the rescuers that the helicopter had not seen me! Amazing. The guys said that in the future you should lay on the ground and move, otherwise all they see from above is a head, and that's hard to distinguise from everything else. So they found me based on what Ando was able to tell them. You can read some of what Jeff encountered here: And then when I finally got home around midnight (having left in the morning at 8am) I eventually read about Ando's experience which was amazing in itself. His ACM has also proven to be an amazing wheel. Essentially going 10 miles down mountain trails with almost no battery power remaining. You can read is account here: And here is the dam (it was not Cogswell after all) that Ando got to: And the 911 help that arrived after he made the call So there you have it. I think none of us will forget this ride. It's been four days and I'm still having difficulty riding, which really surprised me. When yesterday I hopped on my KS14C for a short utilitarian trip I almost crashed as the wheel was very wobbly. I had a hard time turning. It was then that I realized that my legs were still weak and uncoordinated. Amazing. Although I declared that I wouldn't do this again, time heals all wounds ;-) I know Jeff is up to doing it again, and maybe Ando will be to. We will be better prepared next time. More water, food, maps, only ACM's or the like, and a bigger breakfast. Oh, and Jeff says he'll bring his ham radio (which hopefully will not be needed). I hope you enjoyed my little adventure story
  5. 37 likes
    Apologies to everyone for keeping the suspense. If you are planning on travelling to China & having access to your Gmail, YouTube, Drive, etc, the one thing you can depend on is that these sites will not only be inaccessible, but the days of circumvention through VPN is also effectively blocked across the country, making it a real pain to stay in contact with the rest of the world. On Tuesday I did a day trip from Shenzhen to Beijing in order to try out the new Z series, see if it lived up to the hype. I have to admit that with the limited evidence from the few clips floating around, I was sceptical that the Z would hold up to very high expectations. The Ninebot staff were very obliging, they not only gave me access to their R&D area, but answered all my numerous questions about every conceivable aspect of the Wheel, also allowing me to take pictures of the internals. Overall Impressions: So... the important questions that every Wheel enthusiast probably wants to know are: what is like to ride? With the ultra-wide tire is there impairment to manoeuvrability? Will it be able to cope with extreme gradients & high speeds similar to the latest generation Wheels that are marking their way onto the market? Although there was only a limited opportunity to try it out on the Ninebot HQ grounds (no hills) in freezing conditions, I am pleased to report, that to me, it is going to be a formidable new product of 2018, a complete redemption for the failure of the premature P release two years ago. I found stability at both low & high speed to be excellent. Similar to the V5F, there's a torque ripple effect at low speed, you can feel the small pulses of power. At higher speed, it feels sure-footed & completely secure. The model I tested was the smaller battery Z6, electronically capped to 30kph. I did a couple runs building up confidence to push the acceleration. On reaching the max speed there's a progressive, non-jerking, tilt-back to prevent overspeed with a not unpleasant audible warning. With the 4" tire it's to be expected that there will be a bit of reduction in turning radius over the narrow tire Wheels, in my testing this was nothing dramatic, I was able to a full circle in a less than a meter. If you're thinking about using the Z as your Hurste acrobat Wheel, then it's probably not the best choice for this purpose. I'll be posting some video clips once I've caught up on things in the next couple days. Negatives: For the present, Ninebot plan to fit the Z with the same old pedals as the E+. I'm going to try to lobby for longer pedals, if not successful, we may be getting some Custom ones C&Cd. It would seem a pity that for all the time/effort invested into this wonderful new machine, the 3 year old ones would be fitted—pedals are after all the most important element between the Rider to Machine interface. Control Board Building on the lessons learned from the unfortunate P release, the Z's control-board is massively over-engineered to take practically any load. The motor is powered by 12x ST 15180 MOSFETs (300A peak)—need to double-check the model, a search for this model is not yielding any results. There are two input wires from the battery pack that feed into primary board. As for the question of redundancy on the motor, the Engineer said that it's the standard 3 hall sensors with a single set of the wires that all modern higher performance Electric Unicycles are fitted with, so nothing special there. An independent daughter board with the BT module, inputs, LEDs connectors, control functions mounts into the power-board & is fitted with a fuse, while the primary power-board is not fused. I was told that the firmware allows a max peak power of 200A to preserve the hardware from catastrophic failure. In real-word conditions, that would be a perceptible slight dip with a 300lb load racing up a vertical cliff face. The heat-sink on the board side of the shell is simply gargantuan, it occupies nearly the full side of the inner-shell of a solid block of aluminium (40cm x 30cm x 2cm) weighing an impressive >1kg! Lighting The internal shell has two rings of LEDs that are visible directly in front or behind. Front is fitted with three very bright headlight LEDs (combined these are unquestionable the brightest on any Wheel today) & about a dozen smaller App Customizable ones for the tail light. Are there any other hardware differences between Z6/8/10 besides the battery pack size? No, it has the same board, shell & motor. Firmware settings are tweak between the variants to cap max speed depending on the battery type. Not certain if the Z6 can be upgraded to a Z10 through the installation of the larger pack. Because of wide 4" tire, will it be easier to learn how to use for new Riders? This was not a design objective for Wheel, but by lowering the pressure, it will offer a wider profile that should be more stable & easier to use. Will the trolley handle be available when the Wheel is ready to ship? Yes, I'm trying to see that it gets included as 'standard equipment' When will the Z be available? Current guidance is around the May-June period, similar release dates to the new Inmotion V10 (V8+) & KS18L Is the Wheel capable of fast-charging? Although fitted with a propriety charging connector, it will be capable of 7A fast-charging. Because of the lower voltage, total charging input power of 350W What will the pricing be in North America? Based on the expected order volumes, we're going to be placing a fairly substantial initial order, so that the total price for the Z10, including shipping, will be at around the $1550 level. View of the control-board side of the Wheel. Close up of the board Between the hex screws is the absolutely massive heat-sink. Recessed battery pack chamber fits well inside the Wheel. 51.8V (nominal) battery pack composed of 84x LG MH1 cells, 3.2Ah for a combined capacity of 995Wh. The voltage was kept lower in order to meet the potential for UL certification. As a result, there was a great deal of Engineering effort to yield high power through more current. A jet-lagged Jason with the chief Ninebot Engineer, the brains behind the Z. It's an interesting phenomenon that this project was initiated at the behest of the Engineering department, not from marketing research/
  6. 36 likes
    This is the information we have so far: The Wheel had 7000km, in 9 months, when it was sent in for repair in late November It had sustained multiple crashes (David had written this in an earlier communication), destroyed inner-shell, chew-up motor wires, which also destroyed the controller; it was a unique specimen of a damaged Wheel. We have a good documentary trail for this repair. When it was sent back out, everything was changed except the battery pack. There was no visual indication, or other evidence that anything was wrong with the pack at that time. Assuming that it had done similar mileage over the intervening 5 months, it had then clocked up a further 4000+ km; possible subsequent crash damage? Quite probably. He had been using only the standard 2A charger with the Wheel, he has also confirmed it was not charging at the time it lit up. His therapist is another first-hand eye-witness account who can corroborate what exactly happened at the time. I will be contacting both the therapist & the NY Fire Department to assist in the investigation. At this moment, it's not clear what evidence is recoverable from the site. If one had to speculate into causation, then based on what we know from the V10F affair, if water does permeate into the cells, accelerated corrosion will cause a short between the electrodes, creating a runaway cell thermal chain reaction. Understandably David is in a state of shock & is angry, replacing the Wheel is small beans; what is important to me, is that we have a clearer picture on causation, so a similar event does not happen again. As bad as the situation is, it might have been a whole lot worse!
  7. 36 likes
    Sorry friends for my english. Its google translate. Its a very big topic to make it by their knowledge. If somebody can do better - use original http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=51168.msg1199893#msg1199893 P.S. The recall company for Gotway is not included. Therefore, statistics on the Got are slightly larger in reality. Means further I shall be guided by such logic: I will take the number of sales from February to July (take the month of February as a spare, since some devices could first travel) Wheels will be loaded according to the following logic - inmoshen v5, v5f - one wheel; v3c, v3pro, v3s - one wheel, msuper680 and 820 - one wheel, acm680 and 820 - one wheel and tp. Conclusions look at the very bottom of B-) March GotWay 1. ACM 680 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. ACM 680 - does not turn on - button replacement 3. MCM4 - do not peep - replace the peeple 4. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - motor replacement, replacement of the controller 5. MCM4 - the wheel twitches - the soldering logic 6. Msuper1680 - does not turn on - controller replacement 7. Msuper1680 - burned-out controller replacement 8. Msuper1680 - does not turn on - controller replacement KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS18 - does not turn on - controller replacement Inmotion 1. V3 - does not turn off: dance: - display replacement 2. V8 - does not turn on - replacing the button connector 3. V8 - LEDs are not lit - LEDs are replaced 4. V8 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. V3 - does not turn on, does not charge - replace the controller, battery 6. V3 - noise at driving - bearing replacement April Gotway 1. Msuper1600 - does not turn on, the handle is broken - the controller is replaced, the pen is replaced 2. Msuper680 - twitches - resolves the logic 3. ACM680 - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. MCM4 520 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. GotWay ACM - does not turn on - controller replacement 6. MCM4 - does not go more than 12 km / h - controller replacement 7. MCM4 - extraneous sound when driving - bearing replacement 8. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 9. MCM4 - does not turn on - change the power button 10. Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. MCM4 - jerks when driving - motor replacement KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse 3. KS14B - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. KS16S - vibration at driving - alignment of a rim 6. KS16 - turns on once - button is replaced 7. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 8. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse Inmotion 1. V3 - does not turn on - battery recovery 2. V8 - the engine lock button does not work - reassembly 3. V5 - turns off - controller replacement 4. V5 + - at 11 km / h raises the pedals - replaces the controller 5. V5f - noise during driving - bearing replacement 6. V8 - does not turn on - replace the controller, replace the battery May GotWay 1. Luffy - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. MCM4 - vibration while driving - controller replacement: neg: 3. MSuper1600 - not calibrated - controller replacement 4. MSuper1600 - ignition controller: laugh: - controller replacement 5. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 6. MCM4 - short circuit - replacement of the controller 7. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 8. MCM4 - does not work correctly - soldering of the sensors of the hall 9. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 10. MSuper - does not charge - re-solder charging terminals 11. Luffy - not calibrated - controller replacement 12. MCM4 - twitches when driving - Resolving Hall sensors 13. ACM680 - twitches when driving - soldering logic 14. GotWay Monster - does not turn on - controller replacement 15. GotWay Msuper680 - does not turn on - controller replacement KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse 2. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse 3. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS14B - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. KS14B - does not charge - solder battery 6. KS14C - flooded with water - motor replacement 7. KS14B - does not charge - balancing the battery Inmotion 1. V3 - does not charge - battery replacement 2. V8 - does not charge - soldering of the battery cables 3. V5F - not calibrated - controller replacement 4. V5 - does not turn on - flashing 5. 4. V3 - does not turn on - display replacement June GotWay 1. ACM - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 3. Monster - vibration while driving - soldering of the sensors of the hall 4. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. Msuper 1600 - not going - controller replacement 6. Msuper 1600 - controller controller - controller replacement 7. ACM - knocking on the road - soldering the controller's elements 8. MCM4 - Кз controller - replacement of the controller 9. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 10. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. Monster - vibration while driving - soldering of the sensors of the hall 12. Monster - does not connect to the application - replace bluetooth 13. Msuper1600 - strong vibration at driving - replacement of the controller, soldering of sensors of the hall KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS18 - does not charge - re-solder battery 3. KS14B - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS18 - not charging - soldering the charging connector 5. KS14C - does not turn on - controller replacement (failure to repair) Inmotion 1. V5 - does not turn on - battery replacement 2. V3pro - twitching in motion - Resolving Hall sensors 3. V8 - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 4. V3pro - does not charge - solder battery 5. V8 - does not turn on - controller replacement 6. V8 - disconnected during driving - controller replacement 7. V8 - does not charge - battery replacement 8. V8 - does not turn on - controller replacement July GotWay 1. ACM680 - does not turn on, the case is broken - replacement of the controller, housing 2. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 3. Msuper820 - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. ACM - extraneous sound while driving - Resolving Hall sensors 5. Msuper820 - extraneous sound when driving - Resolving Hall sensors 6. MCM4 - K3 on the board, does not turn on - controller replacement 7. Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 8. Msuper V2>: D - jerks when driving - controller replacement 9. Msuper820 - does not turn on - Resolving Hall sensors 10. ACM - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. Msuoer1600 - knocking on when turned on - controller replacement, hall sensors 12. Msuper680 - does not turn on - Resolving Hall sensors 13. Msuper820 - does not turn on - controller replacement 14. MSUPER 1600 - Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 15. MSUPER 1600 - Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 16. Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement KingSong 1. KS14C - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS18 - does not turn on - Reset the power button 3. KS16S% -) - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS18 - low mileage - battery balancing Inmotion 1. V5f - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 2. V5f - does not turn on - replace the fuse 3. V8 - noise during driving - soldering of the sensors of the hall 4. V5 - driving noise - bearing replacement 5. V3C - does not turn on - battery replacement 6. V5F - does not turn on - controller replacement 7. V8 - does not turn on - flashing 8. V8 - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 9. V3 pro - jerks when turned on - controller replacement 10. V5F - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. V5 - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 12. V8 - does not turn on, resampling the hall sensors 13. V8 - the button for locking the motor does not work - the button is replaced 14. V8 - disconnected during driving - battery replacement 15. V5F - does not turn on - battery replacement 16. V3pro - power-on error - controller replacement Conclusions: 1. Here there is a full percentage of marriage for any service call due to electronic or electrical problems (here, mechanical damages and tire punctures are not taken into account) The percentage of rejects from sold devices during the period February-July 2017 is indicated. In brackets, my comments are highlighted by a frame. Inmotin: V8 - 4.8% (excellent quality: wow :, there were a lot of sales) V5, +, F - 5.88% V3c, pro, s - 7.8% KingSong KS14B - 3.33% KS14C - 15% (due to low sales, as the model changed to 14d) KS14D - was not in the service (selling was enough) KS16 - 7.33% KS16S - 1.12% KS18 - 17,24% (transition to sports) KS18S - was not in the service (sales were moderate) GotWay MCM4 - 18.57% ACM 680,820 - 36,6% ACM 1300 - 35% (a small number of sales, according to my personal feelings this is the best of the gothweb) Msuper 680,820 - 11,11% (the average number of sales, here statistics is more visible) Msuper 1600 - 36.98% (every 3 users of a pregnant soup met in the service, the statistics could be a little lower, because in my memory there were repeated calls for the same problem) Monster - 23.4% (a small number of sales) 2. And here now I will show the statistics of the marriage in percent only on the controllers and sensors of the hall. Inmotin: V8 - 1,97% (the standard, as I already said) V5, +, F - 2.71% V3c, pro, s - 2,12% KingSong KS14B - 2% (reference wheel standard) KS14C - 10% KS14D - was not in the service (selling was enough) KS16 - 3,33% (the percentage of the marriage is halved due to the fuse on the board) KS16S - 1.12% (reference) KS18 - 6.89% (the percentage of rejects decreased threefold, 18 of the usual words had problems with the charging connectors and balancing the battery) KS18S - was not in the service (sales were moderate) GotWay MCM4 - 14.28% ACM 680,820 - 26,6% ACM 1300 - 14.28% (all problems are of the same type - controllers or hall sensors) Msuper 680,820 - 9,25% Msuper 1600 - 34,24% (every 3 users of a pregnant soup met in the service, the statistics could be a little lower, since in my memory there were repeated calls for the same problem) Monster - 23.4% (a small number of sales) Final output: Let's break our conclusion by brands. - Inmotion is very good with the quality of monocols and this statistics confirms this. Sales were many and the statistics complete. Inmotion keep it up, there is much to grow. But in general. Well done. - KingSong - the average percentage of rejects for old models (14c, 16 and 18). And the phenominal results for the new sports versions. I also want to note separately 14B - the best wheel for entering the monocoque tusovka in relation to quality. You pay a little, you drive sadly, but not in service: laugh:: laugh:: laugh: - Gotway - it's bad ... We need to work on quality. No model can compete in quality with either kingsong or inmoshenom. There are weak attempts at Msuper680, 820, but not enough. Msuper1600 - generally horror. 84B and the controller from gothve is a nuclear device. As I have already written many times - buying goths makes sense only when you understand what you are taking. Exceptionally speed. If you are not about the actress, unfortunately, goths should not be considered. I very much hope that the gothwa will draw its quality to the level of the standard set by Inmotion and KingSong. P.S. If you have something else to count or see - ask questions in the topic - I will try to find answers to them. Since October 2017, we will have a new program for recording faults and everything will be much better and clearer in it.
  8. 35 likes
    EDIT: As promised I added two more tires to the comparison – 5. Chao Yang H-5167 and 6. CST E-Bike PRO. You can find the description, video, scores and final conclusion below. As some of you may know from my first post in Inmotion thread, I have recently bought my first wheel - Inmotion V5F+. After learning how to ride the wheel, I started using it for daily commute to work and going around the city. I am absolutely thrilled by the wheel, but after few hundred kilometers and some strange and unexpected behaviour I started to doubt the tire that came with it. Therefore I bought 3 other 14 inch tires and made this little comparison that I would like to share with all that might be interested and could find it useful: DESCRIPTION: 1. Hota Tyre Slick, soft rubber tire, with very simple and shallow tread. This was the tire that came with my wheel and quite soon after learning to ride I became suspicious that this might not be very good tire. It could be a good tire but only for asphalt without any surface imperfections. Pros: very manoeuvrable and has a really good grip on good asphalt surface. Not bumpy when jumping down from reasonable heights. Low roll resistance. Cons: it REALY (!) likes to misbehave when you have any vertical lines or deformations along your route, you are immediately “railed”. This might be because when it warms up it gets “mushy” and the slick surface probably seeps into the deformations on the road. Uncomfortable when bumping into curbs. Before I tried other tires I thought that I maybe don't know how to handle the curbs because my knees sometimes hurt after longer rides. Now I know that is not the case because I never experienced this with other tires. For some reason this tire was also unable to hold the pressure above 40psi. I would pump it to 45psi and after few kilometers it would be back to 40. I used the same inner tube on all tires I tested. 2. CST Rhino King This is new model from CST with “puncture protection” and the most expensive electric bike tire I could find on Alibaba/Aliexpress/Taobao, so I thought it might be good. It is by far the most hard / rigid tire of the whole bunch, with relatively complex and very pronounced tread. This would be a very good tire if not for one fatal flaw. Pros: Stable during straight riding, good grip both on asphalt and gravel, quite comfortable when bumping into curbs, has puncture protection. Cons: Well this tire has one fatal combination for the EUC – it is very hard and it has such a steep fall-off on the tread that it is almost unreasonably difficult to control during leaning left or right. When you ride straight with only small left or right course changes it is perfect, but when you need to make any little bit more aggressive turn or lean into one side, you really have to work to keep the wheel from falling down :-( 3. Schwalbe Big Apple So called “balloon” tire, from well known Schwalbe brand. Simple and shallow but dense tread on soft and almost slick rubber surface. This tire has different construction from the other tires, with soft, paper thin side walls from different material (think its kevlar reinforced?) and is very deformable when not inflated. Many sources say that it has to be inflated to minimum of 55psi when used on EUC or otherwise you risk damage to the side walls, so I tested it both on 45psi (like other tires) and on 55psi. This is the only tire with slightly lower width – 14x2.0 (others are 14x2.125) Pros: Best tire for bumping into curbs and amortising any kind of bumps, especially when inflated to 45psi, but even on 55psi it’s still the best in this regard. Very good grip on asphalt. Relatively good directional stability, especially considering the shallow tread and soft surface. Low rolling resistance. Cons: Bit bumpy when jumping down from curbs, not the best grip on gravel. There is also potential damage to side walls (as reported by dmethwin on Firewheel thread). I travelled 80km on this tire and even after this low mileage there was some black dusty “residue” coming off the side walls when I dismounted the tire from the wheel. Not certain how this would influence safety in the long run. 4. Chao Yang H-5146 Tire from harder rubber, but not like CST Rhino King, about half as hard. Pronounced and complex tread. Pros: Most stable tire of all tested on any surface, it just goes where you want it to go without any unexpected surprises. Inmotion V5F+ is a very agile small wheel, which sometimes represented a challenge for relatively inexperienced driver like me (total of 800km in 45 days) when faced with nasty road anomalies , but this tire gives it another dimension in stability without compromising manoeuvrability! Very good directional stability and handling of vertical anomalies on the asphalt surfaces. Good grip both on asphalt and gravel. Cons: Could be better when bumping into curbs, but this is not a real con, only wishful thinking after being spoiled by bump amortisation performance of the Schwalbe Big Apple, which is the only tire out of the tested ones that is better in this regard. This tire has quite pronounced grip and therefore two slick tires have a little bit lower rolling resistance. 5. Chao Yang H-5167 Medium soft tire with added puncture protection layer. Very complex and relatively pronounced tread. Pros: This tire forced me to rethink the score table. I expected something quite similar to Chao Yang H-5146 just with added puncture protection, and although these two tires share many good characteristics, this is in some aspects entirely different beast. In one word – SPEED – this thing rolls like crazy, I was actually convinced that my V5F+ somehow restored to the lower speed limit after the tire change because I have never before reached 25km/h speed limit and tiltback so easily. And the best thing is that it manages to maintain almost all of that wonderful control and stability that H-5146 exhibits. Great handling of anomalies on the road, good impact absorption when bumping into curbs, not bumpy while jumping… and on top all of that it has additional puncture protection layer. Cons: Slightly less (5-10%) controllable than H-5146, probably due to crazy good rolling resistance 6. CST E-Bike Pro If I am not mistaken, this is the tire that usually comes with Kingsong and Gotway wheels (although I can't say how it behaves in sizes other than 14 inch !). Medium soft rubber, pronounced tread. I just had to test at least one more CST tire to have something from another serious manufacturer as a reference to compare to the two Chao-Yang’s. This tire is made of different rubber compound, it’s not super soft but it sticks like crazy, reminds me of the winter car tires. It is also the only one of the tested tires that screeches on the glossy surfaces like marble tiles and those surfaces in shopping mall garages. Pros: Good rolling resistance, great grip on asphalt and good on gravel, fabulous handling of curbs and jumps (very close to Schwalbe Big Abble, and that is a balloon tire -could be that rubber compound?) Cons: Slightly sharper fall-off from the center of the tread to the sides – not nearly as unusable like on the CST Rhino King, but you can still feel it, especially when compared to the Chao-Yang’s. This makes it bit less controllable and sometimes “jerky”. Although it has good grip on the gravel, you have to work more due to that fall-off to keep it under control when wheel bumps around on the uneven surface. I am probably just spoiled by Chao-Yangs by now… VISUAL COMPARISON: SCORE: Tire brand / type Hota Tyre CST Rhino King Schwalbe Big Apple Chao Yang H-5146 Chao Yang H-5167 CST E-Bike Pro Size 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.00 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.125 Ride Comfort 8 8 10 10 10 10 Control 10 2 9 10 9 7 Grip Asphalt 10 8 8 10 10 10 Grip Gravel 4 8 6 8 8 8 Impact absorption 5 8 10 9 9 10 Directional stability 2 10 8 10 10 10 Temperature stability 4 10 10 10 10 10 Rolling resistance 9 8 10 8 10 9 TOTAL: 52 62 71 75 76 74 I am not expert on tires and all of the above are only my personal impressions and conclusions after using these tires on my EUC. All of the tires are tested on the same Inmotion V5F+ and with the same inner tube (Tube brand is Chao Yang). I tried each of the tires for at least 80km. CONCLUSION: Chao-Yang H-5167 is the tire that stays on my wheel. It’s simply best overall and checks practically all important “boxes”. H-5146 would be best beginners tire, it’s so controllable, relaxed and forgiving. Both CST tires have great rubber compound, but the tread has this pronounced center section and then somewhat steep fall-off, which results in less smooth experience and requires more work to control the wheel.
  9. 35 likes
    No I drew that by hand. I should have stayed home after that. Unfortunately I decided to take the GW1600 out for a ride and ended up crashing. The wheel went into a uncontrollable wobble at high speed. I just returned from the emergency room. I suffered a fractured humerus that is going to require the Humpty Dumpty approach ( screws and plate) to put me back together again. My employees are terrified that I cannot work. Being the only practitioner in my practice I’m terrified as well. So this ends my riding days forever. Thank God for helmets. The extended jawline protected my face and head where I only suffered a small laceration above my eye. It has been a fun run. I really enjoyed everyone’s friendship and commerode! I just can’t put my wife, kids and employees through this again. My son was definately looking down and protected me from a much worse accident. Take care and be safe! Dan
  10. 35 likes
    The Z10 is in the house Today I received the Z10 from Chooch. I am going to give him a hard time, but only because he's causing me some unneeded work and stress. It's all in fun though, but he deserves it As you know by now, the tire valve access is via a port on the side of the wheel, and requires a long (~4-inch) valve extender to access for filling. As shown in his video, he didn't care too much for the one that ships with the wheel. So he opted to use an existing one that he had from an earlier Ninebot wheel of his. I guess he decided to throw away the one that comes with the Z10, because it wasn't in the box. And I don't have an old Ninebot wheel kicking around the house. And the tire was essentially flat because that's how he liked riding it. With my additional 55-pounds the wheel was unrideable in the flat condition that it was in. Imagine your feelings, having just received one of the coolest wheels being made, and only being able to look at it. After calling various stores I realized that I'm not going to be able to buy an extension tube locally and it could be a day before I could possibly bum one off a local rider (nobody lives nears me). But then I decided to try something ghetto. I drove to a local PepBoys and bought a pack of four 1-inch valve extenders. I got home, ripped the package open, and screwed them together end-to-end. It worked! I as able to fill the tire The air in the tire did not register on my gauge, so Chooch really likes it low. I pumped it up to 20-psi for now. Next, he didn't send it to me charged or clean. Looks like it came right from the trails. And you know those pads he taped to the shell? Well, he used Duct Tape. You now what that means right? Lots of sticky residue on the shell. So I'll be spending a fair amount of time cleaning it so it looks purty in the videos. There, I feel better now. Chooch, you owe me one Very First Impressions This is one very nice looking wheel in person, and damn heavy. When I showed my wife, her unprompted reaction was, "That's cool looking". I don't think she's said that about any of my other wheels. This wheel is going to turn heads for sure ? Last night I had downloaded the Ninebot Android app; apparently only one is used for all of their devices. Wow is all I have to say. I immediately connected to the wheel and I didn't have to create an account or give my social security number. It knew everything about the Z10 and was super easy to configure. Why can't us KingSong and Gotway owners experience the joys of an app like this? No Chinese. Just my native language. Kudos to Ninebot. Any way, the wheel is charging. After the charge and cleaning, my first ride will be a night ride. I'll try and capture all of the light affects on video. More to come of course. Tomorrow is a Demo day for anyone in Southern California who wants to see and ride it.
  11. 34 likes
    This is by no means anything "official", or complete, and everyone's welcome to chime in to propose new/missing/alternative terms and/or corrections. The point is to explain and make the terms less ambiguous and to help with understanding especially some of the more technical topics and discussions here. The usual term used for the electric unicycles has usually been an "EUC" (for Electric UniCycle). John Eucist has explained the reasons for using this term pretty well here: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/119-why-am-i-calling-electric-unicycle-euc-for-short/ , so I don't see the need in repeating. More informally, most people refer to them as "wheels" (wheel in singular form). EUC Parts At simplified level, you could say an EUC typically has four parts: Tire/pedal assembly with a motor in the hub, a mainboard, a battery or batteries and the shell keeping everything together. Battery Battery is the part of the unicycle that stores the energy to move the motor and power the electronics. Most wheels use a battery pack made of Lithium Ion -cells (of which there are many different chemistries, brands and models), typically 16 (around 48-67V empty/full) or 20 (60-84V) cells in series to get the high voltage required to drive the motor, and one or more of these packs to gain high capacity. The total capacity of the battery packs are usually shown as Watthours (Wh), and on average it seems 10-20Wh are needed per kilometer ridden, although this may vary between different EUCs, riders and riding conditions. EUCs with higher battery capacity (usually done by adding more 16/20-cell series in parallel and/or using higher capacity cells) don't only go for longer on single charge, but they usually keep their torque high longer even when the battery has depleted more. BMS (Battery Management System) This is a printed circuit board (PCB) usually located inside one or more battery packs (although in some cases, like at least some IPS models, it can also be integrated directly into the mainboard). The BMS takes care of controlling battery charging, cell balancing, and has some protections (which can sometimes be even dangerous 2017 update: dangerous BMS overdischarge protection problems seem to be a thing of the past), like overdischarge- (low voltage/undervoltage), overcurrent-, short circuit-, and overcharge-protections. Firmware Firmware is the piece of program in the mainboard that has all the logics for the wheel: alarms, speed limits, tilt-back, motor driving logics, balancing the wheel, communicating with a possible mobile phone app over Bluetooth or such, different types of monitoring and alarms (overspeed, overheat, low battery, over-tilt...) etc Hall-sensor Hall-sensors are sensors that can detect a magnetic field. There are such sensors inside the motor that are used to detect the position and RPM of the motor. The mainboard logics need this information to drive the motor. Also the electrical current sensing of the mainboard is commonly done with a chip based on the hall-effect, which is also needed for certain types of motor driving algorithms like Field-Oriented Control and to detect situations where the power output is nearing the limits Mainboard This is the "heart" of the electric unicycle, typically a single printed circuit board (PCB) inside the unicycle, although sometimes there may be more than one board (for example, Firewheels have two boards, the secondary PCB controls things like lights and battery display). Mainboard has things like the one or more MCUs (MicroController Unit, the "brains" of the wheel), power feed for the motor, step-down switching-mode power supply for other electronics, combined gyroscope/acceleration sensor (often called IMU, Inertial Measurement Unit, or MPU, Motion Processing Unit) for balancing and usually something like a Bluetooth-chip for app-support, LED control, possible display control etc. Motor Motor is the thing that moves the EUC. Typically these are 3-phase BLDC/PMSM (Brushless Direct Current / Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor) outrunner hub-motors with direct drive (with the exception of some geared EUCs, like certain older Rockwheels, secong gen Gotway M10's) that is placed in the center of the rim of the tire. Motors have rated and peak power ("wattage"), and the general rule of thumb is "bigger is better". Bigger wattage does not necessarily mean more speed (although that's possible too), as the different motors can be built with different things in mind (speed vs. torque), and there may be maximum speed limitations in the firmware, but higher powered motor can usually keep you balanced in more extreme situations, like going over a bump or a pothole at higher speed. Especially heavy riders should look for high powered (800+W rated?) motors. 2019: Probably more like 2000W = 2kW? Pedal Pedal is the part on top of which you place your feet when riding. Typically made of aluminum or steel, there are various shapes and sizes (unfortunately commonly a bit too small for western feet), and they affect the riding comfort of the wheel substantially (especially on longer trips). Also the pedal clearance (height from ground) plays a role in riding, as low clearance can cause the pedal to hit the ground while leaning. The part connecting the pedal to the motor is commonly called Pedal arm, although other names have also been used. Shell Shell or shells are the plastic covers within which the other parts (mainboard, batteries, tire/motor-assembly...) are enclosed. Older wheels used to have a single shell made from two parts, more modern wheels commonly have 4 parts to the shell, the "inner shell" that usually only covers the motor and to the outside of which the batteries and mainboard etc are connected, and separate "outer shells" that protect the electronics and the batteries. The difference is that the ones with separate inner and outer shells are much easier to work with if having to do repairs or such and have better ingress protection (preventing moisture/water from entering the electronics / batteries). Strap Strap is a piece of ribbon that usually comes with the wheel. The point is to attach the strap to the wheel handle (or similar), so you can prevent the wheel from falling over or getting away from you when dismounting during practice. Most people stop using this after initial learning, although some keep using it, as it can prevent the wheel from keeping rolling on by itself in case of a dismount. 2019: Not that common nowadays, nobody mentions straps anymore. Tire Tire (or is it tyre?) usually refers to the outermost rubber part of the tire, but can sometimes be also used to mean the inner tube ("inner tire"). Probably pretty much everyone knows what these are, so not that much point in explaining further... EUC "tech-talk" Cut-off or cut-out There are actually (at least) two types of cut-offs that can occur with an EUC: the first is what I've called "mainboard induced cut-off" or sometimes I've also used the term "[motor] shutdown" or "[high/max]-speed cut-out", and the second is the BMS cut-off. (2017 notice: most wheels nowadays don't seem to no longer cut the power at high speed, "overlean"/"overpowering" near the top speeds or board failure is more common cause of such falls) Mainboard induced/motor shutdown/high-speed cut-out/max speed cut-out: In this type of cut-off, it seems that the mainboard firmware decides to cut the power to the motor for some reason (at least overspeed/too much current passing through the board or the wheel has tilted more than 45 degrees). When the mainboard does the cut off, the wheel doesn't usually totally power down, but keeps playing a warning sound or something to tell the user that the wheel must be reset before it can be ridden again. I have also thought that this might ALSO be BMS-related, if it's the overcurrent/short circuit protection of the BMS triggering, as those don't seem to latch, but release automatically? So the entire wheel would turn off for a split second... (2017 notice: this seems to be pretty much a thing of the past, at least in the mainstream big-name wheels, like KingSong, Inmotion, Gotway, Ninebot...) BMS Cut-off is caused by the overdischarge (undervoltage) protection circuitry in the battery BMS triggering, and usually cuts ALL power to the wheel immediately. This can be particularly dangerous, as it can occur very unexpectedly, causing the rider to fall almost every time. Typically the protection is latched, so if your wheel shuts off and doesn't turn back on until you've plugged it in charger, it was probably because the overdischarge protection had triggered. (2017 EDIT: Link to BMS-shunting thread removed, not necessary anymore) Reset Resetting a wheel means turning it off and back on. Many wheels require you to do this, once the motor shutdown has triggered, although some automatically reset when turned back upright after a fall. RPM (Rounds per minute) RPM is a measure of the turning speed of the motor, how many total rounds (turns) the motor does per minute. Shunt Shunting a wheel means bypassing the discharge-side protection circuits in the battery BMS to prevent the BMS cut-off. Not needed in wheels made after something like late 2015/early 2016? MOSFET "Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor" , a type of power transistor used in the mainboard (usually in a group of 6 or 12) that's responsible of driving the motor by controlling current flow in the 3 phases. Commonly referred to when speaking of the technical details of mainboards, or when someone has a burned board (one of the most common reasons of failed board is burned MOSFETs). EUC Riding Idling Idling is the term for staying pretty much in place by moving the EUC back and forth. This is taxing for the motor (constantly changing direction) and eats up your battery fast, but can be useful for example to wait for a traffic light to change or such. Leaning Leaning refers to using your body to move your center of gravity and control the EUC. You lean forwards and backwards to accelerate/decelerate or change direction. To turn the EUC, you usually lean to the direction you want to turn to (left or right), somewhat similarly as with motorcycles or bikes at faster speeds, although you can also use your hips to "swivel" around for tight in-place turns, at least in slow speeds. Out-lean or overlean Out-lean / overlean is a term used to refer to a situation where the rider leans (usually) forwards so much that the wheel cannot keep him/her balanced anymore (not enough torque), and usually ends up with the rider dismounting (or falling). Out-leaning usually occurs near the top speeds or in uphills, where the wheel motor cannot keep producing enough torque to keep the wheel upright as the rider keeps leaning forward. Usually it occurs only after the full tilt-back (but not always, especially when accelerating fast, the wheel may not have enough torque to tilt-back), so most people shouldn't be able to do it accidentally, unless it's due to low battery (if the tilt-back is based on speed). Overpower Overpowering a wheel refers to similar situation as with out-lean and is often used as a synonym, but seems to be more commonly used to describe a situation where the wheel cannot keep you balanced on level ground, for example when hitting a pothole that causes the wheel to tilt too much to forward or simply out-leaning. Overspeed "Overspeed" used to mean the speed where the mainboard cuts the power to the motor. This was (at least mostly) with older, pre-2016 wheels. Nowadays (November 2017) most wheels will let you push it all the way to the end, but once you hit the max speed (which is at least somewhat dependent on the battery charge state), the voltage difference between the battery and the motor back-EMF (voltage induced by the turning motor) is too low to cause enough current and thus torque, and the rider ends up overleaning the wheel. Power braking This is a pretty "unofficial" term, used to mean the type of braking where you push the wheel in front of you with your legs while simultaneously leaning back and pushing the pedals down to brake as fast as possible. Requires some practice, but not that difficult, and a useful skill when you need to stop "on a dime". Be warned though, on occasion this has led to the mainboard burning the mosfets, although it's not common, especially in the higher end power-wheels anymore. Tilt-back Tilt-back is a safety measure, where the wheel starts to tilt the pedals backwards at higher speeds to warn and prevent the rider from leaning more forwards. While it is possible to lean more and try to get more speed, it might not be wise, as you can overpower the wheel. Most wheels have this (many wheels let the user adjust the tilt-back speeds with app), but some older ones don't have it at all (for example older Gotways and Firewheel).
  12. 34 likes
    Hello everybody, have fun! It was a lot of fun for me to do it, and a good motivation to heal my broken arm during this summer. Thanks to all the people who organize this contest. Hirsute
  13. 33 likes
    After two weeks of being held up at Customs, the long awaited pre-production 18XL turned up yesterday For some context & background: I received one of the original 18L pre-production Wheels back in April; the packaging foam wasn't properly thought out, so that the power button came into contact with the foam, causing it turn on & burn-out the control-board before even taking it out of the box. This time round, KS have really taken this issue seriously, so that the foam is positioned below power button, & if it were to somehow turn on, the Wheel is shipped with the software lock enabled—they've started doing this on all their Wheels. I've now accumulated about 1000 miles on the 18L, switching from an early V10F. While discussions on the V10F are bound to bring on a fierce debate between owners, it was, probably still is, the most ergonomic & comfortable Wheel ever made, with its comparatively narrow body & large pedals, that fat 2.5" wide tire, made for a wonderful ride experience. I switched over to the 18L mainly because of the V10F's throttling on <60% battery became annoying, while of charge remaining, the 18L satiated this need to maintain a >40kph cruising speed, but it was not without some loss. Within a week of making the change, I hit an unmarked speed bump, resulting in an unplanned dismount crash... While I was wearing minimal protection (wrist-guards) it was reminder of the potential hazards of Wheeling, during the couple days of down-time pondered if some larger pedals might have allowed a surer foothold & recover from that second of air-time. I've been lobbying for larger pedals with King Song for four years, but there wasn't much interest on the their end, citing that it would 'ruin the aesthetics' & 'not requested from other Distributors'. After clocking a 1000 miles on the V10F, with the accumulated experience with this Wheel, it was evident, the significant advantages that would accrue from this comparatively small change. Undeterred I proposed that eWheels would fund the larger pedal project, the results of which can be seen below. Although only 20% larger than the original type—25cm vs 20cm—visually the new pedal simply dwarfs the original, Notice how the edges have been tapered, more oval than rectangular. These preproduction set were CNCd, the production version will using the same magnesium alloy as before, the profile does seem to be slightly thicker for greater strength & durability(?). One minor compliant, is that the grip tape pads the same as size as on the smaller 20cm pedal, would prefer that these extend to the outer edge of the pedal. The real substance of the XL is inside, the massive 1550Wh battery pack. To accommodate those extra cells, the cell depth has been raised to two cells in height, 7 cells across columns one & two, & 9 cells in column three—the pack is asymmetrical, with more cells on packed on the right side than the left. Unlike the 18L, where the pack is enclosed in a battery casing, in this sample, the battery structure is comparatively primitive, with a single layer of blue wrapping around the pack. A concern could be that the outer shell body is now in contact with the pack, where if the Wheel receives a sufficient hard side-blow, it might place stresses on the nickel plates weld joints between the cells. Is this simply a characteristics of this prerelease prototype? Will there be silicon injection between cells, as there are in other packs, to transfer the physical stresses from the conductive plates? These questions should be answered next week. Here you can see the reinforcing 18L rib has been ground down to fit the fatter batter pack, presenting a challenge to existing Customers who might be considering upgrading to the 18XL. Another enhancement to the 18L is the new cleaner looking mud-guard, it's also made of a synthetic rubber that is screwed into the shell. I'll be posting an update with some further impressions sometime tomorrow, sorry, I ran out of time on this initial report.
  14. 32 likes
    *** As a heads-up to everyone, this is a LONG post! If all you want is to see the end result, there are image gallery links posted at the end! *** Last year around June I got a funny little idea in the back of my head... I wanted to make my own custom EUC! This idea stayed with me for months. I ate, drank and breathed it. And then the LA EUC Games came and went and the fires of my inspiration were stoked with friggin' gasoline! I realized that it wasn't going to go away until I executed on it, so I started jotting down everything that popped into my head. I filled multiple little notebooks with sketches and notes on everything I could think of: from possible chassis designs and overall shapes, battery configurations, wheels and motors, pedals and their hangers, ride mechanics, control boards, cooling, internal wiring, chargers, power supplies, trolley handles, lights, speakers, fenders and mudguards, dash cams, stands, seats, built-in tools/supplies, waterproofing, padding and control, ergonomics, materials and durability, crash scenarios and survivability, I/O and interfacing, ease of maintenance, ability to modify and add to... The works. If I thought it, I wrote it down. And then I saw a posting in the Private Sales section advertising a great-condition Gotway Monster V1 for sale near me. I jumped on it immediately and never looked back. I knew that the Monster would be the perfect base on which to build my new wheel because I already owned a Monster V2 (thanks eWheels!) and loved it to death. The 22-inch tire was amazingly stable and cushion-y; it provided a wonderful ride and when combined with its 2000W-rated HB Motor, it gave me all the power I needed. The huge 84v battery (it was the 2400Wh version ) was exactly what I needed in a wheel that I wanted to be able to take me anywhere, and I could go as far as I reasonably wanted to in a single ride. I knew that one of the main things I wanted with this wheel was to have higher pedals, so I contacted @Jason McNeil at eWheels and he sent me a "lift kit" for the Monster consisting of MSX pedal hangers and all the associated hardware plus a set of Nikola pedals. And then I had to stop and think about an important detail: The control board. ***There is an entire sub-story here in which I tried to figure out how to design the wheel such that the control board could be top-mounted, rather than on one of the sides, but I ended up deciding that without having Gotway make me a custom firmware for a specially-oriented board, it would just be safer not to get TOO experimental with it. *** The V1 board that came with the used Monster just couldn't do justice to the motor, and the firmware, while I love it to death for what it is, just did not meet my needs. So I contacted @Jason McNeil again and got my hands on a brand-new Monster V3 control board to tinker around with! And wouldn't you know it, this happened just after Gotway started shipping out the new MSP-style control boards! I covered some of my adventures with the new board in this thread: Once the Control board was decided on, I threw myself into actually designing the wheel and went through TONS of iterations trying to get everything JUST so. I used a free online CAD tool called TinkerCAD (https://www.tinkercad.com/) to make my designs, and eventually refined it down to something that I liked. And then I scrapped the design and redid it about 8 times until I ACTUALLY liked it. Here are some screenshots of it in TinkerCAD (I can provide closeups on different parts if people are interested): Now, there is no accounting for taste and there never will be, but BOY does the final design tickle my fancy! It has so much functionality it's hard to list it all in one place, but I will try: Raised pedals: Increased ground clearance - great for off-roading and dealing with obstacles (high enough to completely ignore most curbs). Altered ride dynamics - being so much closer to the axle leads to a VERY different ride experience from a normal Monster. It is peppier and easier (less effort, but not faster...) to accelerate/brake, and corners can be taken much more sharply and without ANY fear of pedal scrape. However, your body's slightly higher center of gravity can be a bit disconcerting until you get used to it, which can cause a bit of awkwardness when stepping on and off. Super durable frame: Made entirely from pieces of ABS sheet plastic chemically bonded together, the frame is extremely tough but with enough yield to prevent shattering or major cracking during a bad crash. Support lines and critical areas are made of thicker stock (1/4" or 3/8" material) and all mechanical connections use multiple stainless steel 20mm M6 countersunk bolts and brass threaded inserts embedded (heat) deeply in the frame material. Frame strength was verified (repeatedly) with a 4lb dead-blow mallet at multiple points and angles to simulate crash impacts. (I whacked the sucker as hard as I could and didn't leave a scratch!) Built-in eWheels fast charger: Built into the top section of the chassis, the charger provides all of the benefits we've come to know and love. It runs at 84v with adjustable 1A-5A charge rate and 80%-100% charge level. The electronics look great and sturdy with proper anti-vibration measures, there were multiple attachment points for the circuit board, the reliability is top-notch and the voltage and current readout just make me smile when I see it doing exactly what I want. The Charger plugs in through a standard C13/C14 plug in the "trunk" of the wheel where a 12-foot cord is also stored, allowing it to be used almost anywhere and the cable/cord replaced with a spare easily in case of emergency. The wheel also has a standard Gotway 84v plug (also located in the "trunk") that can be used to charge the wheel in case the built-in charger becomes inoperable for some reason. Automatic Plug-less Charging Dock: Charging plates on the bottom of the right side of the chassis allowed me to implement Plug-less Charging when the wheel is placed on its stand. Each of the two plates has a matched pair of spring contacts on the dock that spreads the potentially high current levels between them and prevents heating at the contact point. A properly-rated waterproof micro-switch keeps the spring contacts on the stand itself disconnected form A/C power until the stand is in use (until the wheel is placed on it). Because the stand is simply passing AC power to the wheel for use by the onboard fast-charger, the contact plates on the wheel itself are physically isolated (relays) from the charger circuit when not in use. This prevents a possible shock hazard by disconnecting the charge plates when the onboard charging cable is plugged into the wall. Auxiliary 12v battery: 4 individual 12.6v battery packs connected in parallel, each with its own BMS. Cells are all older Samsung 2200mAh 18650s reused from one of my old Ninebot One E+ battery packs (all cells in good health). There is a built-in charger as well as a relay that disconnects the charger from the battery packs when it is not charging to prevent vampiric drain. This battery pack provides power to several individual systems that I wanted to be able to function without the wheel needing to be powered up: primary headlights, accent lights, bluetooth speakers and aux power. ***Feels good knowing that I have a part of my first wheel with me wherever I go on this thing!*** Automotive headlights: 2x 10w LED (Cree T6) aftermarket lights - most often used as additional headlights for motorcycles. As anyone who has experienced the new MSP headlights can tell you, these things can throw some photons! The difference here is that because of their all-metal construction they don't require any kind of fan or active cooling, and they are both individually adjustable so I can have my light exactly where I want it and change it whenever the situation calls for it! It's wonderful being able to have one light focused right in front of me if I need it and the other aimed either WAY down the road (these things are BRIGHT), up into the trees, towards (or away from) traffic, or straight down to give myself more ground presence. Heck, I can even rotate it all the way around so it's flush with the chassis, effectively turning one light off if I don't need that much brightness for some reason. EVA foam padding: EVA foam (craft foam) is a wonderful material that I have long used on my wheel mods, and it definitely makes its presence known on this wheel. It is relatively stiff and holds its shape well, but is also pliant and forgiving. It is easily shaped and formed, can be sanded/molded/heat-formed, most adhesives bond to it without issue, and it is generally resilient and able to deal with repeated use. Aside from the ABS frame, handle and "kickstand", the entire top section of the wheel is made from EVA foam. This means that the entire top of the wheel (including all of its possible contact points with your body) is a soft but firm "padding". High-visibility Reflective skin: The EVA foam used to construct and clad the different segments of the upper section was completely covered in 3M Scotchlite fabric. This is the same material used as silver striping on safety vests. It is durable, feels silky smooth, has a beautiful (subjective of course...) matte/satin appearance, and is INCREDIBLY REFLECTIVE. If this wheel is ridden at night, people WILL see it several hundred meters off, and because the reflective surface is so large and wraps completely around it, there are no "blind spots". Also, the majority of the black plastic surfaces on the wheel have been covered in a black reflective vinyl, which behaves much like the Scotchlite fabric with a thin black overlay. It looks black in the daylight, but at night if there is a light pointed anywhere near it, it will reflect back as a bright silver/gold color depending on the color of the light. Trolley/Lift handle: The lift handle on this wheel was designed to be just high enough off the ground as to make a trolley handle unneeded, but not so high as to make someone... uncomfortable while riding it The handle is made of polycarbonate tube (incredibly strong) with Scotchlite fabric inside and sturdy ABS braces that are designed to easily survive a violent crash. The braces are in turn attached to a 3/8" polycarbonate sheet that acts as a "lid" for the wheel's upper section/compartment. This sheet allows the charger electronics to remain visible for easy inspection as well as allowing the non-contact motor cutoff switch to operate freely. Non-contact Motor Cutoff switch: I got tired of dealing with motor cutoff switches that were unreliable or eventually failed from overuse or water/dirt/dust ingress. To solve this problem I decided to use a photoelectric switch aimed at the bottom of the handle to trigger the motor cutoff. It works fantastically! It never fails to trigger when a hand or glove is placed into the opening beneath the handle. Removeable Seat attachment: Riding seated is almost necessary for the distances that a fully-equipped Monster can take you, so of course I made a seat for this wheel! Very simple ABS construction with 1"-1.5" of neoprene padding on top. Wonderfully comfortable and stable. Full Body Waterproofing: I have commuted 8 miles to work on my MSuper in the pouring, drenching rain many times. It's never much fun aside from the novelty, but the wheel always survived. However, a few times upon opening my MSuper for normal maintenance I have found evidence of water intrusion all over the batteries, cabling, and bottom of the inside of the chassis! This was chilling to me, because that could have EASILY caused a crash. For this reason, EVERY connection point on the frame and cover panels is gasketed, preventing water intrusion. Wheel covering: I added an EVA foam "hub-cap" to both sides of the wheel. This was primarily for aesthetics, but I also realized later that it actually makes the wheel significantly more efficient in terms of air resistance - the spokes of the wheel are no longer stirring up the air as much. I also added a section of the "hub-cap" that can be lifted up (this section is held in place with copious amounts of velcro) to expose the innertube valve. Additional heatsink area: I discovered sometime last year that a standard, cheap aftermarket M.2 heatsink (the type used on SSDs that use the M.2 form-factor) could be added to the exposed side of Gotway's newer-generation control boards to significantly increase their surface area and cooling capacity. I have made this mod to my MSuper, my Monster V2, and now this bad boy, and it REALLY helps with control board temperatures! Neoprene Battery Cradle: The compartments that hold the primary batteries for the wheel are surrounded by a layer of foam padding on the sides, and a much thicker layer of squishy neoprene padding on the tops, bottoms and backs that help to absorb any physical shocks encountered while riding. This takes a major strain off of the axle when you hit bumps and the like, and also serves to protect the batteries themselves. Essential tool storage: I decided early on that I wanted an easy-to-access place built into the wheel to store whatever I might need to address issues/accidents while out in the field or away from home, just in case something burned, popped, or needed to be replaced or anything. I wanted to always be prepared and never have to even think about it, so I made sure that the "frunk" (front trunk) area was designed such that it can fit and secure the small assortment of Hex-wrenches necessary to take apart EVERY mechanical connection in the wheel, as well as a micro bicycle pump in case of minor flats. Dual dash-cams (forward and rear): I installed a good-quality dual dash-cam setup (1 "brain" and 2 cameras) that was designed for motorcycles. The cameras are completely waterproof, and are built into the "bumpers" on the wheel - one facing forward and the other one backward. This system supports up to a 256Gb SD card, which means that when both cameras are recording at 1080p I get well over 12 hours of straight recording time! The dash cam turns on and powers off with my wheel so I never have to think about it - if I'm riding, I'm recording. It feels great knowing that if anything happens, I have proof - even if I never see it coming... Dual 40W Waterproof Bluetooth Exciters (speakers): While I have never before felt the need to blast my music loud enough for everyone to hear it, I decided it would be kind of fun to turn up the TRON soundtrack as I'm blazing around the city at night every once in a while... To that end, I decided to attach some high-powered "exciters" to the inside of the chassis. These neat little devices use the chassis itself as the speaker diaphragm so I don't have to break the integrity of the chassis by drilling holes for traditional speakers! And they are LOUD. I'm just using a cheap little 15-20w per channel bluetooth amplifier to drive them, but uh... you can hear me coming if I want you to Best of all, the system is controlled by an external switch and runs on the auxiliary 12v battery pack I built into it, so it only turns on when I WANT it to, not every time I turn the wheel on. Lookin' at you, Gotway... "Kickstand": The rear end of the top section is designed for the wheel to rest on when it is not in use. Just tilt the wheel back until the "taillight" is resting on the ground, and the wheel will sit upright and perfectly stable. "Accent" lighting: One of the most iconic features of the vehicle I took my inspiration from for this wheel is its distinctive headlight and taillight. I tried to recreate them with what I think is great success! I used super high-density white LED strips behind a piece of diffused plastic for the laser-like front headlight and it is incredibly bright and directional. The tail light is a more standard density red LED strip, also directed through a piece of diffused plastic and is very bright and visible. This is another system that runs off of the auxiliary battery and can be turned on without the wheel active. Undercarriage lighting: I decided that undercarriage glow lighting might look interesting at times, so I installed a pair of waterproof 5v RGB LED strips in the "wheel well" above the wheel itself, and wired them into the control board's headlight circuit. This gives me soft undercarriage lighting of whatever hue I want that illuminates the tire, wheel and ground below as long as the wheel is running. Makes for a cool effect! Auxiliary power port: I am a modder, and I know that in the future I will probably have an idea that I want to implement on this wheel. To that end, I left a switch-controlled DC power plug on the wheel's main IO panel that is connected to the auxiliary battery. It can run basically anything that takes 12v and I don't need to worry about it being able to push enough current! If the future me requires power, he shall have it! Phew, that was a lot of stuff! And there's a LOT more that went into the particulars of the design that helped me eliminate problems I have come up against in my other wheels and have heard other people mention about theirs. That said, I started out to write a simple post here, not a book (and I fear that has already happened...). I have already put almost 300 miles on the wheel now that I have built it and I must say that it is AMAZING! It rides like a dream. All the power of Gotway's latest wheels with a spunkiness to it that's all its own. Comfort, and a sensation of plantedness that I haven't experienced before on any other wheel. It behaves and moves like a much smaller wheel thanks to the pedal placement, but doesn't give up any of its imposing authority or stability. It feels fantastic in a way that you just have to try for yourself. Well, try and get used to, because it is a CHUNKY boy (about 80lbs worth) and has some quirks that go along with it. The inertia, center of gravity, leg contact points and how the firmware interacts with both it and you are different from anything else I've ridden and can take some time to acclimate to. That said, it's my new favorite wheel, hands down. I took a bunch of pictures during the fabrication and assembly process (when I remembered...) and have posted them in several albums on Flickr. The photos don't have captions so if you have questions feel free to ask! Here ya go! Frame Construction: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/9vdtgU Populating Top Compartment: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/84W13u Wheel Cover: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/9Z44wv Populating Sides and Underside: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/vXnX9v Front and Rear Bumpers: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/hk7797 Side Pads, Nose and Tail: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/24eq52 Frunk, Trunk and Skin: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/0P7A4f Primary Batteries and Wiring: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/jr4776 Charging Stand: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/549D0J Final Assembly: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/s3PH30 Vanity Shots: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/iVs4iC
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    Yeah, no worries @US69, go ahead and keep that video. In regards to the video not being identical... yeah sure, but out of the ~15 runs i did, i assure you that i did at least a few runs that were just as hard as the one that caused the bobble failure. As for the throttling, i didnt feel it. Just got a little annoyed with the beeping (couldnt disable the beep at 30kph and double beep at 40kph). So... anyways, i feel much better about this firmware update and have regained a fair bit of confidence in the wheel. Time to go ride and do some crazy stuff for the 16X review video coming up.
  17. 31 likes
    So to help clarify from my side, it is limited to HARD acceleration followed by immediate braking. Ive cruised at top speed followed by hard braking without any problems. So, braking isnt the issue, its the hard acceleration (much more preventable). Kingsong has been pushing out new firmware updates and made vast improvements to the motor control in the last month, so i believe that this will be a simple firmware update soon. A hard hill climb demanding the same power didnt result in this problem. Other than this motor control problem, the 16X has been a blast to ride.
  18. 31 likes
    Why I Think The Nikola Is The Best Wheel At This Moment I’ve ridden it about 100-miles since Monday. I’ve taken on my first mountain test (picture above), climbing 5100-feet to ~11,000-feet. I’ve ridden it on tough rocky trails which demonstrated to me that it has superb low speed power (torque). First, if you have a MSX, KS18XL, etc., I’m not saying to necessarily run out and buy one. My commentary is for those of you who want to move up and have been torn as to which wheel to get. You can now safely skip the MSX, KS18XL, etc. The tire. It’s huge like the MSX. It’s wonderful like the MSX for dealing with crappy trails, roads, etc. But it’s a little bit smaller so you get better handling like a 16-inch wheel. I think this is the perfect size, between 16 & 18 inches. The tire is the main reason I say skip the KS18XL. The shell. It looks big (wide) but it’s an optical illusion because of the handle. But the shell actually has a nice taper away from the legs, unlike the MSX (which is more boxy). So it’s actually very comfy to ride and took me zero adjustment period like the Tesla, MSX, etc. The pedals. They don’t have the large dihedral angle like the MSX. Just your typical semi-flat angle. And they are huge. I did ride it through some snow (11,000-ft) and the ‘plastic grip tape’ does suck - slippery when wet 🙁 However, because your feet are lower compared to the MSX and the top of the shell isn’t ‘digging’ into your upper leg, The Nikola rides and handles like a dream. I don’t know of course until I ride one, but the 16X shell looks boxy like the MSX, where it hits your leg. Time will tell. Based on my rugged trail riding with the Nikola, it exhibits superb low speed power to slowly climb up and over very large rocks, etc. Going downhill also feels very secure. I have lots of wheels that I will continue to use for variety, etc., But I think The Nikola is now my wheel of choice for mountains, trails, long group rides, just about everything. And for you speed freaks, just buy the 100-volt version. Yes, there are negatives, but where it really counts (riding), The Nikola rules IMHO On a side note, I have now retired my ACM as the best all purpose wheel.
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    Hello everyone, This is Liam Zeng, Marketing Manager, from INMOTION headquarters. It has been a while since our last update here. Thank you @Chriull for giving us a special section to discuss our new innovative suspension wheel-Inmotion V11 electric unicycle. For the past few days, tons of information and questions about #inmotionV11 coming in are collected. We will try to answer every question and update it. Please follow the topic. Thanks Landing Page: https://www.inmotionworld.com/product/inmotion-v11 Suspension Q: Suspension have any specific maintenance to be done? A: There is no special maintenace need to be done except pump in different volume of air into the suspension tube once or twice a month. Since the tube is hidden inside the cover, it's not easy to break. Q: Is it interchangeable with other options available on market? A: It's Inmotion Customized suspension tube. No other replacement available on market. Q: Compared with KS model, from my perspective, what are the main strengths of V11? We don’t have the S18 in our office so that we can’t look into the details. But the hidden design of V11 will make it more compact and not easy to break. Second, V11 design is more flexible to adjust the suspension travel by pumping different volume of air. As I know, S18 only has two level adjustment. I guess, we need to get the sample to find out or @Kuji Rolls might has the answer. Power and Speed Q:IM Live(launch event) showed a 50% more powerful motor compared to V10, and a few hours late V11 power was declared the same as V10. The reason why V11 can offer stronger power is that the size of V11 motor bearing is two times bigger than V10F. Moreover, the quantities of MOS unit on V11, 12 units, is also two times more of the V10F, 6 units. It means that V11 can bear bigger current, and not easy to overheat. The rated power of both V10F and V11 are 200W. Like extreme condition, like bumps, climbing hills, the wheel will generate mass power that is much stronger than the rated power 2000w. It might be 3000w, 4000w, 5000w in peak power. In other words, the peak power of V11 is much stronger than V10F. Q: Battery Throttling begins at and Battery and reduced speed. Big change. First time of compromise on the speed limit. It's easy to fix, but not easy to make the decision. Above 30%, Top speed 50km/h; Above 80%, Top speed, 55km/h. Btw, 55km/h is another firmware that will be shared on this forum not for standard version. Inmotion V11F Possbility Q: INMOTION always a latest F version, can we wait for a V11f soon? Is next INMOTION EUC built in suspension too? A: Currently, we don’t have any plan to launch a F-version. More time will be needed to test the first generation suspension wheel, then we will think about what’s next. IP Rating Q: Since it is was built for off-road, can we expect a more resistant monocycle in all directions (pedals, motor a axis)? Also about water and dust resistance? A: The capability of waterproof, and dust resistance is highly improved from the previous model. The IP rating of the whole body is IP 55. The battery is IP 67. And pls don’t worry about the dust might get into the controller that locates below the anti-spin button. It looks empty but it can be washed by water if the dust and mud get attached on it. Add-on Accessories Q: Is there any V11 external accessories? (smartwatch, decorative LEDs, BT speakers, pads, shell colors) Add-on accessories: Seat, BT Speakers, Decorative Ambient Light are under development.
  21. 30 likes
    It’s a great honor to announce that we have Ulf Scheidsteger joined our King Song team, he will be King Song Media representative on social media, mainly electric unicylce forum and our King Song official facebook group. Ulf Scheidsteger is knowledgeable about technical issues and knows well about king song wheel specs. He will follow general questions forum members have in his spare time. All the feedback he collected , will be reported to us for analyzing.
  22. 29 likes
    Am I the only one that thinks wheels shouldn't have people names (like cats and dogs)? Anyhoo.... thanks to @Hsiang and indirectly eWheels for the brief poke-prod-ride today of the Sherpa (I refuse to call this wheel by it's official name). While you're all waiting for the Hsiang-ster (call him Sean, he'll love that!) to drop his Spongebob video, thought I'd offer my brief and unbiased thoughts for you insatiable bastards EUC folk. Thoughts in No Order: This wheels reminds me a LOT of my now dead Rockwheel GT16, from the layout (2 permanently wired longitudinal battery pairs down each leg, board on top, exposed wheel), to the long hex pedal shape, to the similar hex column trolley (albeit the GT16 one was an external add-on). The gyro-pedal resistance even feels reminiscent (but not identical) to the GT16, with the GT16 being more a hard rubber sponginess, to the Veteran's medium rubber sponginess (ie. not like the Gotway brick hard or glide-y/air-y soft mode swing, although local guys tipped me to the fact that the newer MSP boards now also feel spongy, unlike previous MPS FW boards. The natural comparison is to the MSX/MSP, but the ride feel to me is not that. First, the ergonomics are waaay better than the MSX series, as there is more side shell area support height, from pedal to top-of-shell, which the MSX series never had, due to it being just an MSV3 case with the pedals moved up higher, so less resulting side shell area height support. The benefit of the batteries being perfectly balanced on each side flanking the center axle, is that there is no top-heaviness that wheels with extra top batteries suffer. Same goes for the MSX series, since those batteries are held above the center axle with no lower battery to balance it out. On ride, Shermona felt plenty balanced, albeit with some girth, even with pretty high-feeling pedals (whatever that means anymore). Neither me nor @Hsiang nor @Ben Kim were willing to bust 40+, but it's my theory that this wheel will perform similar or slightly higher max compared to the 100V MSX, esp seeing in the stress torque test below that this wheel is not tuned for torque like the MSP is (but no other wheel is basically). This isn't to be confused that Slovenia doesn't feel easy to push accelerate, because it does feel nice and robust in that realm, but the ppl seem to confuse real torque power with what they are feeling pedal pressure-wise, which IMHO is more how the response is tuned v acceleration. Rough feel/eyeballing it, I'd say the She-man feels more responsive to acceleration than a 100V MSX simply due to the fact that the 100V MSX is a brick hard shelf on all modes and will fight you the more acceleration you try to summon (yes contrary to what guys on here think, but I'm adamant about this point often on these forums). I say this because the internal components (battery, board, BT module, etc.) all look like the same supplier stuff as Gotways, because it IS coming from the same place! So I don't think they're reinventing anything here, just variations on a theme. If anyone cares (I think only me @Tishawn Fahie, @chulander, and maybe a couple more guys would), this Veteran Shellfish's soft mode is super interesting IMHO, and is ACTUALLY REAL SOFT MODE! (which is why I'm even entertaining/contemplating getting this wheel). Like I said above, it's definitely not Gotway soft mode, due to the rubbery sponginess, but has proper front pedal push swing/travel, like an OG Gotway soft mode, but unlike OG Gotway soft, the backswing brake has some significant swing/travel to it, which threw me off (as Gotway OG soft backswing is harder with less travel). Due to the short time I was on it, I'm not totally sure what to make of that, but it does intrigue me into wanting to master that feel. Construction/build quality was on my checklist, and this Veteran is definitely a notch above the cram-and-jam bees nest that is the MSX series. The shell plastic when grabbed and pinched on both sides feels noticeably thicker than the usual Gotway shells, as I tried to tug and warp the inner shell as I can do on my Monster inner shell, but this Shamama inner shell was stiffer and didn't flex nearly as much, especially at the seam where the pedal arms contact the inner shell rectangular column, so there's some hope the usual Gotway cracking at that juncture doesn't happen with the Veteran. And all the board wiring is clean, what with no speaker / LEDs (thank God!), all self contained up top. The rail on touch wasn't super high quality, but not super cheap to the touch either, so better than I thought going in. The rails seem to be in 2 parts, where they adjoin to holed anchoring fixtures on the pedal arm itself, beneath the L support. The rail measures at ~ 0.8" for guys who are looking for mounting solutions. The new longer pedals I thought I would hate, but eh, they seemed fine on trial. Since the normal hotshot YouTubers have no interest in divulging, but I do: Veteran is using the same pedal arm angle and width (minus the need for spacers), so you can swap in any Gotway pedal into this Shamgod you want! (below with my MCM5 pedal on) Water infiltration on this wheel might suffer a bit, but not major I think. None of the seams on the shell covers are gasketed, but that's an easy fix. However, the trolley column holes are also not gasketed, albeit the seams are very tiny, but this would be one possible are of infiltration (not MSX trolley handle level tho). Also, the front and back cooling vent holes, while I like for obvious cooling design, are 2 other areas of possible water penetration, but less trivial, as those vent holes are below the actual board level (board is raised by the heasink), pointed at the heatsink cavities below. But also on the above rain tip, the LCD panel unfortunately isn't the waterproof gel+plastic button deal, it's plastic cover over a mechanical plastic button, and the LCD panel was peeling at 1 edge from the start, so this thing is possibly vulnerable in rain. I would invest in a good XL shower cap or garbage bag cover for rain Another useless (or useful(?)) thing no YouTuber would cover is the fact that, yes, the headlight and taillight are easily removable, and the plugs are 3.5mm pins. Which is awesome because you can technically easily swap in your own headlight of choice! In fact, @Ben Kim already found the generic frontlight they're using here. . Portability-wise, it's just as ppl probably think here: this thing, while not impossible, is DAMN HEAVY! (ie. heaviest in the market) And you can only really lift it awkwardly like a heavy gaming PC by the far front and back railing. This is really the major hiccup that has me wavering over pressing the buy button. Oh! and for the seated riding fans, this thing is definitely too low to just sit. It's not MSX squatty-potty bad, but you still have to straddle the back edge with your twig-and-berries. What a shame! All they needed to do is make this thing a few inches taller for seatless proper seated riding. Oh well. Some guys are trying to herald this as the next Messiah, one wheel-to-vanquish all, but IMHO it's more like this is what the 100V MSX should have been: an actual improved re-design. If you don't care about build quality or want a lighter, cheaper wheel with similar performance, definitely the MSX is still that. But M Night Shamalan to me is the MSX speed performance, wrapped in a much better and cleaner shell, but she also gained like 30+ lbs and can't be lifted up and across the room in a civil manner (oh yeah, I flaked and forgot to bring my spare power button to test, but I spied a few empty 2-pin spots on the board that might be hiding as a live handle disengage port, dunno). Argh, if the soft mode wasn't so intriguing, I would so easily be able to cross this wheel off my list. Decisions, decisions...... EDIT: FML, pre-ordered
  23. 29 likes
    Since receiving the V10F about two weeks ago, I've put on 200km distance on the machine & have to confess I simply love it! One of the first things an experienced Rider will probably notice, is that between the 2.5" wide tire & high pedal height of 17.2cm (6.7"), it has the feel, & many of the ride qualities, of a 18" wheel. For additional control, hugging the sides of the Wheel with your calves feels very comfortable, probably the best ergonomics of any other Wheel. Inmotion have really pulled out all the stops, listening to their Distributors & Customers in trying to make the V10 the best possible 16" Wheel that would satisfy the demands for majority of their Customers. For years, Riders have been crying out for larger pedals, a brighter headlight, cut-off switch, travel handle, speakers (well maybe not everyone for speakers), all of these features have been crammed into a body that is only a couple cm taller than the previous generation V8. I'm inclined to believe that given the constraints of the volume that the V10 occupies, it's difficult to see, at least without some major breakthrough in battery energy density technology, or commercial room-temperature superconductors, how an Electric Unicycle can be dramatically improved based on materials that are available to Engineers today. What There is to Like About the V10F: Power: based on my limited ride time, the 2KW motor has that same effortless glide quality as the GW Tesla/ACMv2, but you do get a couple degrees of tilt-back as you approach around 35kph speed as if to remind you of your mortality. If you push beyond this, at 40kph there's a klaxon warning before the tilt-back gets more aggressive. On low battery, 40%, the speed is reduced to 35kph, haven't run it down below this yet. Tire size: one of the first things I did on taking possession of the V10F, was to take it on a gravel track. As you can see from the picture, there's plenty of clearance at the lip of the shell, but within 20 minutes, a small piece of gravel did become lodged between the shell & motor; a small stick did the job to remove it & I was back on my way within minutes. To take full advantage of the wide tire, I'd recommend riding at a lower pressure than you would do on a 2.125", it becomes much more forgiving, stable & enjoyable. Pedals Size & Height: the total surface area is 30% larger than those on the V5/V8, giving more foot support & as @houseofjob had pointed out, these are the largest pedals of any other Wheel right now! There's mixed thoughts about the rubber surface material. I've ridden it quite extensively in wet conditions, whatever synthetic compound they used still provides excellent friction in the wet, hadn't found slipperiness to be a problem. Slim Profile: another unique property of Inmotion's Electric Unicycle is the location of the battery pack in relation to the motor. On all other Wheels that I can think of (with the exceptional of the IPS i5) the batteries are installed on either side of the motor; this necessarily makes other high capacity Wheels fatter than Inmotion's design. But isn't just about the width, the location of the battery has a direct impact on stability as well. As another reviewer of the prototype has recognized, the V10F feels a much stable than other Wheels I have used. My theory is that the narrower distribution of weight will be channeled directly down to the supporting tire, which will probably mean less of the wobble effect. Super-bright Headlight: it's the best headlight that I've seen fitted on a Wheel; has a downward direction to it, so doesn't blind oncoming cyclists from afar. The Chameleon: whirling animated LEDs might not be everyone's cup of tea, for drawing attention to oneself, but in Inmotion's quest for technical superiority, they've taken the stand ring & multiplied it by three, as it can be easily disabled, what's there not to like about this! Beauty Contest Winner?: there's no denying the power that the aesthetic quality plays in a Buyer's psychology when making a high-valued purchasing choice, especially first-time owners. Minor Annoyances & Issues on the Prototype V10F : Amount of Travel in the Handle: for me, this is the single most significant technical problem on the V10, there's way too much lose movement in the handle. Although it's identical to the V5, because the V10F is almost double the weight, when you're handling it on surfaces like carpet, it's hard to have firm control of the Wheel's direction. Technique of Wheeling it backwards helps, but Inmotion need to fix this for mass production, a couple washers might do the trick, haven't had a chance to test this out. Default Speaker Volume too Loud: because the speakers are so powerful, it doesn't appear that Inmotion adjusted the configuration to account for the more powerful speakers. At least on the prototype, the alerts are piercingly loud. You can use the previous version of the App to reduce the volume of these alerts. Default Pedal Pitch Angle: although the App represents pedal angle as being 0°, you can see a slight backwards inclination, this is evidenced when the Wheel is placed against the side of wall you get a significant amount of motor whine. In the App you can readjust this, found the sweet spot to be 3° forward. Width of the Self-Standing Support Struts: the self-standing supports on the V8 were a nice extra touch, you have this too on the V10, but the dimension have not been scaled for the larger Wheel. It is not yet certain if this is improved on the production shell mold. Side Padding Adhesive: given assurances that this has been changed on the production Wheels, but in my prototype, the pads kept falling off, had to resort to gluing them permanently in place. Charging Port Flap too Tight: I found that if the flap is fully closed, it can be difficult to pry it open without the use of a tool, the quality is really great, better than previous V5/V8 designs, but the practicality of opening it can be a challenge. Difficult to Fold Pedal Down with Foot: If you loosen the small tightness screw it's easier to undertake, but because of both the curvature of the pedal edge & where the shell meets the pedal, it's not easy to get a foothold to push the pedal down from the upright position. Getting a grip around the handle is manageable. Even though it's compact, at touch above 20kg, it's heavy & feels heavy too! If you're planning on carrying this up a couple flights of stairs during your morning commute, you'll need train up to be in a fit state to carry it. You can see how bright even the rear brakelight is. There's a high-def speaker fitted front & back (two for stereo). Notice the small arch support, standing upright on anything but perfectly flat surface is going to be unstable. Renders always look gorgeous!
  24. 29 likes
    Lisa has owned her Inmotion wheel for less than 2-weeks but was frustrated at not being able to ride. All she could manage was to climb on top of the wheel and pull herself along a wall or railing. She reached out for help on Facebook. I saw her post and since she was within driving distance of me, I offered to help if she was willing to hop in the car for a 10-mile drive. At the appointed time this morning we met on one of our river bicycle trails. She with her Inmotion V8 and me on my Mten3. I gave her "watch me" lessons on mounting, dismounting, and riding. I had her practice dismounting from a standstill and then a fair amount of time doing rolling mounts (without actually mounting). Then we moved to the broomstick approach that I saw @who_the demonstrate on one of his training sessions that he was giving. In my case I was using a stout camera mono-pod. Finally it was time to separate her from any external supports. I was committed to getting her divorced from dependencies on railing or walls. Starting at a standstill while holding onto a railing she would start moving forward and then I had her push away from the railing. She didn't go far, but this was the beginning of establishing the needed muscle memory. Repeat, repeat, and repeat. She was getting better and better. And I trained her on rolling starts so that she could avoid the whole Hop-Starts that many of us began with. So much nicer. I then let her get on the Mten3 (while standing next to the railing). Once she started moving and let go, she had it. I now see that the Mten3 is an amazing wheel to help someone learn to balance. We did many runs with the Mten3 and towards the end she looked like she could just about go forever. This was a big psychological boast, and when she went back to the V8 her balance was noticeably better. And after a total of 2-hours of training, look what she can do I'd call this a success Although she wanted to join us on our Hooters ride tomorrow she still needs a little more practice. But it won't be too long before we have a new rider on our hands. Expect to see Lisa in one of our future group rides.
  25. 29 likes
    As the guy who placed the first order for an 84V Nikola from @Jason McNeil and was riding one from the first batch, I was concerned when @Marty Backe reported the burnout of his control board. After seeing the pictures I parked the wheel until I could find the time to tear it down and inspect the control board (good to have other wheels to ride ). A long career in electronics design and manufacturing made me suspect that this was an assembly "innovation" not a one-off quality slip. Before disassembly my Nikola was riding flawlessly showing no signs of a problem. (By the way this wheel is WONDERFUL!) I had only put about 90 miles on the wheel before parking it. My rides were local rides on paved roads with rolling hills and max speeds of about 26 mph (42 kph). So... not much stress on this wheel. I have attached a picture of my control board that shows glue residue on the MOSFETs but no apparent thermal damage to the board or MOSFETs. As previously commented in this thread the presence of a substance that is a very efficient thermal INSULATOR on the MOSFET heat transfer surface is a big problem. I will be rebuilding the wheel on Monday after correcting the defect and bringing the thermal management up to what I consider an acceptable level. I will post a video of the rebuild for anyone interested in a DIY solution. So far when anyone has looked they found glue. Just another data point...
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    Today I received my Monster (I was expecting it next Monday). Shipped from Speedyfeet on Sunday to California. Can't beat those delivery times. So you can see me with my Monster and 1300wh ACM that I got 3 days ago. Two new wheels within a few days - I'm not sure what to do Before I continue with my Monster ride observations I feel that I need to make this statement: I hereby formally bow down to the Gotway Gods Ian (Speedyfeet) had pre-charged the Monster so when I took it out of the box (and gave myself a small hernia in the process) I had an 80% charge. That meant only one thing - an immediate test ride. I used my existing old Gotway app to configure it: 1st & 2nd alarms off and tilt-back off. It's nice that I've been able to use my original Gotway app to configure all of these wheels. And the Wheellog app (and Pebble watch connection) work perfectly with these new wheels. When I climbed aboard (an apt description) and started riding I thought to myself, "what have I gotten myself into"? This thing is a beast and when you first start, it feels totally unwieldy. Turning as you do with a normal wheel does nothing - it keeps going straight. Turning the Monster is all about weigh shifting and hips to shoulders. I will say that once you get use to this way of turning it is a piece of cake. I can literally turn with the same agility as my ACM, but the body movements are very different. The problem can be that as you're riding and suddenly need to turn you apply your normal turning techniques and the Monster just ignores you So after a 25 mile ride today my knees and lower legs are hurting because I kept falling back into my old ways. Clearly this will improve. But I did ride 25 miles today. After about an hour everything was really clicking and it no longer felt unwieldy. I'm probably going to run out of superlatives trying to describe my riding today. I rode a river trail that I enjoy, a park with lots of dirt/sand trails, and sidewalks in town. The Monster eats anything in its way. I'm serious. I rode over bumps, thick mud, sand, whatever. It just takes it and doesn't toss you around. Deep ruts in the trails? - the Monster laughed at them. Hitting some of them in my ACM would have thrown me from the wheel. I like to carve when I ride and that was very enjoyable with the Monster. Weaving in and out of obstacles on the sidewalks was easy. I climbed a couple of very steep inclines and there was no problem. Feels like my MSuper - you have to really lean into it and have faith that it's not going to dump you. My ACM on the other hand climbs inclines much easier. Acceleration and braking feels like the MSuper, but a tad more sluggish. Today I had one hard brake that I had to apply to avoid missing my intended turn. I managed the brake and turn successfully but it was a near miss. I think it's best to plan your brakes well ahead of time with this wheel I must say that I think the Monster has the potential to be a dangerous wheel . Why? Speed. Prior to the Monster I felt that I had the fastest wheels available (ACM and MSuper). I typically ride my ACM between 17 and 20 mph, sometimes going up to 22 for short periods. Feels very fast. The Monster? It laughs at 20. Seriously! For half my ride today I would catch myself looking at my watch (Pebble) to see that I was going 22mph! For awhile I was going 25mph and here's the thing; it didn't feel dangerously fast. 25! I was feeling very comfortable going 22mph whereas on the ACM it feels like you're pushing it. The Monster is so stable and has so much reserve power that it's a pure joy to ride fast. I was riding 20mph on some trails! I never heard the 3rd alarm today. So I have to say if you love going fast and eating up any road or trail in your way you will love the Monster. I think it's the most amazing wheel ever produced. I'm very serious. No, I wouldn't recommend it as your only wheel because lets face it, it's a beast. But in the context of trail & street riding it's amazingly fun. I can't wait to take it up into the mountains this weekend. I'll be posting a video review and ride video sometime in the next week.
  27. 29 likes
    It's with sad news that I'm here to say that my brand new (now scratched to hell) MSuper V3s+ is afflicted with the now infamous Gotway oscillation syndrome. I had just picked it up personally from @Jason McNeil a couple of days ago while he was out in California inspecting his latest delivery from Gotway. He's a great guy to hang with btw, and we (Jason, myself, and @Sven) had a fun little ride in some local hills. Andy, you need to post that video you made! Of course I tested mine a day ago by riding (slowly - which is key to remember) over various bumps, curbs, etc. No problems. Yeah! But this morning was my first opportunity to take it for a serious ride. I setup my camera and filmed a short mini-review introduction to my new MSuper (God I wanted to love this wheel) and then took it out on the road. As you'll see in the video below, about 3 minutes into the ride I'm on a sidewalk, probably not going faster than 15mph. I travel across a street and up on to the sidewalk, and that transition was enough to cause it to instantly oscillate and throw me off the wheel. My take away is that the wheel has to be traveling at a fairly good clip for this to happen. But as you can see, I was not exactly traveling at an extreme speed. Jason is screwed with his recent shipment, and I must say anyone who has received a unit within the last month or so is risking their skin if riding the wheel faster than 10mph. Even though I say in the video that I'm probably going to ride it, I'm not. As I rode home I couldn't make myself go faster than 10mph for fear of the oscillation. There is zero warning. There's absolutely no fun riding a wheel under those conditions. I have no clue how Gotway is going to prove any recent wheel delivery is without the problem. They clearly lied to Jason regarding his shipment, and he must be one of their best dealers. When I get a new control board (I assume), how will I know Gotway did anything. Who wants to gear up and ride 15 - 20 mph into a bump to test it? I'm sure I'll be more open to the idea after a few days, but not now. My left wrist and hand is getting worse as I type this Well guys, I only have my Monster and KS14C to ride now, and summer months are upon us. What a bummer. Enjoy the video The thumbnail is 1 second before the crash - ouch.
  28. 29 likes
    Hi Everyone, here is my submission for the contest. My Dad has even let me have my own profile to enter the movie Hope you like it.
  29. 29 likes
    I guess this falls under the "Impressions" part of R&I. My daughter drew a short comic to summarise the EUC basics, publishing it below with her permission. In case you can't tell, she adores penguins... (Full res PNG with transparent background.)
  30. 28 likes
    I think it's time for a own thread about all mods to make the 16X even more better. I will start with a picture dokumentation. 1. Dust and dirt inside housing. After 25km offroad from new I cleaned the wheel and do the job with the metal sheet below the pedal hanger and protect the speaker grill with fabric (see below). Additionally I even sealed the complete housing from front to back with tape. (gap between inner and outer housing) and today after 45 km (30 km extreme offroad / 15km pavement) I have so much sand in the inner housing that I thought the lower LEDs are defective on a length of about 15 cm. But they weren't, the sand covered them completely. The hole under the pedal holder was probably not overlooked, but is there to let the sand out again. I opened the 16X again...now you can see that most of the dirt enters between the mud flap and the housing. Front rubber - biggest gap between housing and rubber I have dismounted the rubber part, cleaned all with alcohol..... ...and used super glue on the red marked place (off course the inner side ) Mud flap - big gap between the flap and the housing I drilled in steps from 1 - 1.5 - 2.0 and used a 3 x 12 mm screw with a washer (this time no super glue, because glue doesn't holds very well after a crash on the mud flap The rubber presses itself too much into the plastic holder and loses its tension. Just one screw with 3mm machine thread. The sheet metal on the pedal holder shouldn't be longer than here, otherwise the outer housing will hit it. The passive Subwoofer membrane was nearly complete loose. I removed the old white sealant (wrong glue for this kind of rubber) from the housing... ..., the membrane was already clean like new. 2. Tire sit not properly on the rim I found out that the old tire and the new tire are not sitting properly on the rim and have a 2-3 mm radial and lateral runout exactly at the valve position. The reason for this is that the valve hole is drilled too far outside and the tyre cannot slide into the rim bed. Pressing, squeezing and pulling everything did not help, not even with lubricant.The old tire already has also a pressure point at the valve position. I had to mill the valve hole 3mm to the inside (hole is now oval), so that the tire had enough space to slide on the rim bed. Here are some pictures of the original condition. ...and here after the fix. Now the tyre sits properly without any lateral or radial runout.
  31. 28 likes
    Sooo @cloudust beat me to the punch in posting my initial impressions YouTube vid on the forums here.... the Ninebot Z thirst is real! ? LOL First, as much as I always dole praise on @Jason McNeil of eWheels.com, I must do so again: Thank God we have you in the US as our local PEV dealer and thank you for so graciously agreeing to ship this demo Ninebot Z unit on a 4-city US tour to your loyal fan customer base. Call me biased, yes, but I cannot help it: I've been screwed over by enough Joe Schmo middle man EUC sellers and cold-shoulder-go-to-your-distributor EUC co's to know not to take YOU for granted (and for those who don't know, one of my long-drawn ordeals is what led me to Jason in the first place, helping me on a wheel issue where the wheel was never purchased from Jason/eWheels). I will post as much nuanced content as I can on the Z to this thread throughout the week we have the Z here in NYC, complete with my incoherent ramblings and self-manufactured terminologies! (not joking, they really could be incoherent, I'm running on 2-3 hours sleep, neglecting my day job as we speak, each day we have this wheel... ?) Catching everyone up to speed, I'm on Day 3 (approx. 50 miles in) of extensive daily city riding with the eWheels.com demo Z10 (trying to shake off the initial euphoria, as is the case with all new wheels). And please remember to keep in mind, these are my rider biases (if you don't know of me or can't read my signature on mobile): I ❤️ big & wide wheels. Bigger & wider the better! (err, maybe not as big as that DIY 26" KS18 of past cult fame) That said, I've owned (not simply tested) almost every size, shape, and major manufacturer EUC model now (see my sig), and that's on purpose, because you'll never truly know a wheel without putting in the mileage, all models are slightly-to-drastically different. I ride daily, rain or shine. My only walking comes in the form of running 3-10 miles a day. I'm not a hill or offroad guy. I live in the capitol of Flatland City, Urban America, New York fudgin' City. Besides, @Marty Backe does a fantastic job with that on his socials. You might have read, but I have weird theories on riding on every nook and cranny of my pedals with my feet (wide, offset, edges, tip-toes) or my butt (seated, yeah!) except the standard set-it-and-forget-it parallel 11's foot positioning. I want every bit of leverage and angle of bending / carving I can get out of every wheel I ride dammit! (I also realize this is not the case with most riders on this forum.) I am not the riskiest of risk-taking risky top speed EUC riders. Yes, I do occasionally hit 30mph maxes, but the stars and the moons have to align. My average speed in this city carving stop-and-go car traffic is ~26mph, 28-30mph for passing car speed. I am 175 lbs rider weight (working on getting that back to 165 lbs *smh), so probably just a smidge under 190 lbs with backpack weight. Now,.... Let's tackle some of the heavy-hitters right off the bat, shall we? Because that's really what everyone's itching to [somewhat] resolve/inform, right? (again, all my own opinions, feel free to agree with nothing I say because I have no clue what I'm talking about ??) ===================================== PART I The Main Attraction: 4.1" Wide 18" Ninebot-branded CST Tubeless Tire Shock Absorbing? Unfortunately, not as I would have hoped ?, especially being in a pothole-infested city like NYC. It's not terrible though, and being super wide at 4.1", as long as you're not hitting the kind of bumps that make you catch small air, the overall massive dense weight of the Z10 (more on that later) will plant you to the ground in a very stable manor. Any hint of air you catch though, is met with a very solid thud (no bounce back) that if you don't cushion with your knees can reverberate up your being. Letting out some of the air did help, and as we test ride more, I will possibly try deflating a bit more to see if this gains more absorption/bounce (no, I did not measure PSI, but it felt very much like the max rated 32 or higher out of the box). My theory: the culprit here is the tire composition (yes, those who know me, know I champion this subject). Being tubeless with thick consistency (not sure how much ratio of rubber there is in there), I think it's very reminiscent of how e-kick scooter folk hate solid rubber tires for the same lack of absorption you usually get with a pneumatic air tire, especially in the absence of proper suspension. Maneuverability? This is always tricky, because my comfort with turning / carving bigger wheels is not necessarily your comfort with turning / carving bigger wheels (if you even want to take an effort to [learn] doing so). As with all bigger diameter wheels in the 18"+ tire category, the common refrain is "use more upper body to turn". Well, considering the Z10 sports now a 4.1" wide, at least ~50% wider than most EUC tires made today (Even the 2.75" wide 22" Monster tire!), you might need more than just the usual increased upper body / hip twists to achieve deep carves (obviously, body dimension/physics dependent). For me, my feet are constantly moving and pivoting, sometimes hanging off the pedal at non-traditional angles, so I can achieve deep carves on the Z quite satisfactorily (yes, albeit with more body movement). But I can see how set-it-and-forget-it, close to the shell, parallel 11 feet, "I want the wheel to turn by itself" guys will say it's less maneuverable than smaller diameter wheels. The dense 55 lb wheel weight & short stubby OG Ninebot pedals also compound this I suspect. Stability? This is where the Z10 surprised me, and in a good way, the best way! (though we heard brief early reports of this quality in passing) Quite logically, the Z10 having a wider tire, though being slightly curved and not flat (like the OneWheel tire or a car tire) gives you a wider base, which equals more stability and more distance traveled falling one direction before rider-correcting to the opposite direction. Combined with the greater mass density, which contributes to a slower initial momentum, you can really (with proper technique) control this wheel at slower speeds to the point of crawling next to pedestrians, and switching pivot axis really quickly. While in motion, the wide combined with the mass equates into hugging the road over small bumps better, only catching air for the more jagged and bigger divots (though again, the dense rubber tire composition does not absorb shocks). Think of a boulder chasing Indiana Jones or something similar (am I dating myself? Lol) Acceleration / Braking Acceleration With the Z10, Ninebot has re-introduced hardness pedal sensitivity settings again from the One 16" series days ( @Tishawn Fahie had reminded me that they had removed this for the 14" S2/S1/A1 series for some unknown reason). This time, the settings are only from 0 to 4 (as opposed to I think the 16" series was 0-10), with 0 again being the hardest response. Unfortunately, this is not the top tier stiffness/hardness of a 0-setting 16" One or 14" S2, but I would equate the 0-setting Z10 to around slightly less hard a response than a sport-mode Gotway Tesla, and comparable or slightly harder than my Ride-Mode KS18S (was that the name of the hardest KS setting? haven't opened up my crappy KS app in ages Lol - still don't want to!). However, due to the mass, to really initiate from-rest acceleration, especially uphill, you need to swing more weight force into the Z10 pedals, almost reminiscent to the way you need to really swing the sport-mode MSuperV3 pedals to initiate acceleration from rest (albeit, with more resistance to the Z, not in that glidy, floaty, effortless Gotway thing the MSuperV3 & Monster motor do). In other words, the power and acceleration in the ballpark of other 2kW nominal motor models IS there (just below the 84V Gotways), but you have to work / lean for it more. Also, interestingly, though it takes time for me to gain trust with any new wheel, so far I was not able to overcurrent/overcharge (ie. fast acceleration uphill) the Z10, whereas I was able to do so on the V10F. Braking I think the Z10 is the first EUC where you can specifically select the braking behavior, called "Assisted-braking" in the app (see my Z10 Initial Impressions YouTube below). It's just a toggle between enabled and disabled. When enabled, leaning back to brake will have little tension, more swing. I guess this supposedly "assists" your braking, but I was never a fan of that feel (see MSuperV3, reportedly SoloWheel does/did this too), so I've been constantly toggling that feature off (the demo Z10 keeps forgetting just this one particular setting for some reason; they might have fixed this in the updated FW that the NB app keeps prompting me to update too, but I have bad memories of Ninebot One 16" Firmware-gate: Faceplanting of the Ninebots a couple(?) of years back, so we'll just keep ignoring that FW prompt, thank you very much!). So with the braking 'assist' turned off, braking is sufficiently hard IMHO, and every NYC rider who's been on the Z10 so far has agreed with me, FWIW. Heaviness I brought this up at the end of my Z10 Initial Impressions vid, but the Z10 has to be (might be wrong) the heaviest 18" EUC at ~55 lbs, and not packing a very efficient battery-to-wheel weight-ratio, as my KS18S with an extra 680Wh more battery is 4 lbs lighter. This heaviness factor is both a minus (obvious lifting implications) and plus (the aforementioned grounded/planted-ness for bumps) IMHO. Walk-up apartment residents and high heighted car trunk owners beware! Not really sure why this is, but my guess is the tubeless tire & motor weight (could be wrong). Alright, gonna part-by-part more impressions/observations + video content progressively on this thread, as this short analysis got dense real quick! If you stuck by this long, your Ninebot Z thirst is strong!
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    [Split from this thread about the 1860Wh 100V MSX.] Gotway Repeats The MSuper V3s+ Debacle of 2017 So while I was visiting the San Diego riders this past weekend, I got to ride @ZenRyder's and @Nick McCutcheon's new 1860wh MSX's from Jason. First I rode Mark's MSX which he had already customized by putting a massive street/knobby tire on it. This was Mark's first Gotway. I asked if I could ride to see how the new tire felt. Something was strange but I couldn't put my finger on it. I was in the parking lot and therefore didn't ride it very fast. I concluded that it felt like maybe the axle nuts were not tight. Being Gotway, I know this has happened before. But then the discussion moved on to other topics. As we started our ride, hosted by @Flyboy10, we were riding through downtown San Diego when I was watching Nick on his 1-week old MSX. This was his first "real" ride on the wheel. Nick is quite the rider (he won a V10 at the LA EUC Games for his performance in the Gran Prix) but still doesn't have extensive experience riding lots of different wheels, including the MSX. His MSX was wobbling back and forth (not side-to-side). I thought he was making it happen (which he kind of was), but you shouldn't be able to do this on a Gotway even if you try. I asked him what was going on but he didn't have a good explanation other than it didn't seem to be behaving properly. So I asked to ride it. Whoa! This was horrible. As I rode down the street fairly fast the wheel was in a constant state of back and forth oscillation. The pedals were in hard mode. We weren't in Kansas anymore I then thought back to Mark's experience. A bit later I tried his wheel again, this time at speed. It was riding identical to Nick's - horribly. And it felt very unsafe, because if you hit any bumps the oscillation would be amplified. Later in the ride Nick almost lost it, and to me, he looked like he aged 5-years He said he wasn't going to ride it again until this was resolved. As soon as I got home I wrote Jason to tell him that his batch of special MSX's were unsafe. Somehow Gotway installed bad firmware, which I'm still kind of flabbergasted at. I mean, any experienced rider would detect something was seriously wrong within 10-seconds of riding the wheel. This wasn't an edge case like the 2017 MSuper V3+ firmware issue. You can imagine that this made Jason a happy fellow , to know that Gotway shipped him a container of MSX's which will need new control boards. Jason confirmed that one other owner complained and the problem was fixed by replacing the control board. But since Jason had only received one complaint, he assumed, rightly so, that it was a one-off problem of some sorts. But with my report from San Diego, the nail in the coffin was set. Gotway has confirmed the issue which apparently is evidenced by the new rear ring light not functioning. You know, that new thick ring LED that surrounds the 5 LED battery indicator. So it appears that someone at Gotway who shouldn't be allowed near the firmware installed the wrong firmware on these wheels. There are probably other riders like Mark who have never ridden a Gotway before, who don't realize that their new MSX is faulty and actually dangerous. Of course @Jason McNeil is on top of it and will make everything right. Once again I feel sorry for what Jason gets put through by these Chinese companies (it's not just Gotway). I don't know if this version of the MSX is being shipping elsewhere besides EWheels, but if so, people need to beware. And for your enjoyment, here is a video I shot that shows the problem (and where Gotway observed the lack of the ring light) And this video of Mark on his new baby, demonstrates how dangerous this wheel is with this bad firmware. If you have one of these wheels I strongly advise you not to ride it until fixed by EWheels.
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    What happened: So I was riding after the rain. The speed was about 30km/h. I saw a small pothole, filled with water. "Nah, a pothole, I'll manage. :-)" Boy I was wrong! Hidden underneath the water was the truth: This wasn't a normal pothole, it was a Fucking Assassin Pothole From Hell! About 1ft deep. I didn't fall from the wheel, it just changed trajectory. What followed was 1s of death wobble, followed by a faceplant. First time my helmet was scratched. And first dislocation in my life. What went well: Helmet - I banged my head harder than ever before in my life. My cheap $15 helmet made me feel nothing - not even a slightest headache! Without it I'd suffer concussion for certain. Wrist guards - my wrists are in perfect condition thanks to well spent $5. Knee pads - my knees are unscaved. Not even an ich! Another $5 of investment paid off. Phone cover - the cover got destroyed, the phone survived. I'll need to 3D print another one. That's what I designed it for. What went wrong: Dislocated shoulder - Since I have a pretty sturdy build, I couldn't pop it back in with a fence and I had to ride back home. I used this method to reduct my shoulder. I did it solo by tying my wrist to a bedpost. Best method from the ones I tried. I'm pretty sure I lucked out - I didn't rip any tendons (all muscles are working) and I have enough mobility to use the keyboard. It should get better every day. Conclusion: WEAR A HELMET! Preferably always. You may luck out like me previously, but the time will come when it will save your life. Concussed, I'd probably need an ambulance. I can't imagine riding a unicycle home 7km with brain damage. With a helmet it was a pleasure to get hit in a head. I felt literally nothing. Even the cheapest one from crapsco will do wonders. Wear wristguards! They are small and fit in pockets. I can type with both hands thanks to them. Wear knee pads whenever you're doing anything risky. I'd have two more shallow wounds to take care of if I skipped them today. Be really careful of ANYTHING under water. You never know how deep it is. https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/16057-my-new-ks-18xl-survived-from-being-underneath-2ft-of-water/ What other people thought: Since I kept both my hands on my helmet when I rode home (it was the least painful position), I'm pretty sure that other people thought I'm showing off or smth. Actually, it would be pretty hard to ride back home on a bicycle or a scooter. On a EUC you can ride with two shoulders dislocated! Please disregard all my past posts about not needing a helmet. You never know when death will send a Fucking Assassin Pothole From Hell after you. Especially when you think "Ah, a straight street, what could possibly go wrong?". 0/10 - would not recommend. Wear protection, ride safely, beware of water!
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    News Directly From Gotway Gotway has reached out to me, acknowledging that they have seen my video and that they want to replace my control board. But here's the real kicker, and should be of interest to many. After telling me that a new board will be sent to me, on a separate line is this, "With big MOSFETs" So it appears that Gotway does have a new 84-volt control board design with what I assume is the TO-247 MOSFETs. Very exciting. They've heard us
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    Hello All, It's been awhile since i've been on here but thought why not share my thoughts on this wheel, I was lucky to get. It's a prototype that was sent to me by Gotway America to keep. I decided to share my experiences with everyone. www.Gotwayamerica.com I also want to thank @houseofjob for helping me put this video together! I cant give an review since I just got it and want to spend time with it. Here are some specs. Motor - 1900watt Battery - (this model) 1020wh Built in Trolley - yes Light Belt - yes (reminds me of the ninebot days) Weight - 42.8 lbs Brighter head light compared to previous models. 4 pin charger - same as the Msuper V3s+ 84v Max speed so far - 30mph! Built in dual fan- silent could barely hear it. I feel like this wheel have some type of shock absorption.. Not sure how to describe it but it goes over cracks and bumps with easy. Very comfortable to ride although when trying to ride on 1 leg i'm experiencing a slight pain on my shin. Not sure if its something I have to get use to or is it because of the thin padding that was placed there. I created a video that should help with how it looks and test rides. Hope you guys like it. Also motherboard is now placed on the top of the wheel instead of the usual side next to the batterie. Cables seems to look well connected here are some pics. Again i hope this helps.
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    So I've been back from CES in Las Vegas for a week now and I think I'm now ready to give my report back on how it all went at least on the EUCs side of things. Last year was my first time ever to go to CES and this year I had a mission to really check out every EUCs that was here and any other cool tech. The EUCs companies that were at this years CES were Kingsong, Ninebot, Airwheel, Fastwheel, F-wheel, and a few no-name brands. Other personal transport companies included a few electric scooters, electric bikes, and literally around 100 "hoverboard" companies/distributors. This is going to be a long post so I'll try to section this out the best I can. If you want a TL;DR version, scroll all the way down for my short CES EUC summary video. To start off, I was very excited to be able to meet this guy! If you don't know, that is Alton Brown, Food Network celebrity. Bringing my EUCs to CES So I planned on bringing my Kingsong 14C and Gotway Msuper to CES. The kingsong I brought because I needed my firmware to be updated/fixed and the Gotway just as a backup. I didn't want to risk being rejected at the airport so I just shipped my wheels using uship.com for the first time and I must say I recommend them over traditional shipping methods for being cheaper and more flexible. It is basically the "ebay" for shipping and is ideal for when you have to ship any unusual/akward items. My shipment guy arrived on Sunday morning and had my wheels in Vegas by Monday night right when my flight arrived in Vegas. I was able to carry my Kingsong on the plane ride back home though which I talked about in another thread. But I was able to ride up and down the strip at night with no problems at all either from pedestrians or police. I was even able to comfortably navigate the escalators. But one of the main reasons for having my wheels at CES was logistical..... Parking near/at the convention is very limited and expensive. So I parked my friend's car in one of the free parking lots on the strip and then just rode the EUC to CES. I then locked up my EUC to a bike rack like this: It worked out like a charm. And even going in between the LVCC and the Sands Expo took the same amount of time as the shuttle buses did since I talked to a guy as he was getting on the bus and then saw him again when he got off the bus at the Sands. KINGSONG I first saw kingsong on the first day since I wanted them to flash updated firmware on my kingsong 14C. Met Tina and the rest of the gang who were very nice and accommodating. They had the new KS-14C Mark III along with the 16 inch and 18 inch model. I liked the updated design of the 14C with the integrated controls and the rubber pedals. Riding it felt more or less the same as my version. The 16 inch model I didn't think would feel good because of its protruding leg pads but it felt surprisingly very good. The pads were more softer and more comfortable than ninebot's pads and the power and responsiveness felt strong and tight. I wish I was able to take it outside to really test the speed and acceleration though. The integrated handle trolley is a very nice feature although I am not sure how strong the mechanism is when its retracted in since it has to support nearly 30 pounds. The bluetooth speaker sounded nice and just as loud if not louder than the one in the 14C. It also comes with extra noises to make within the app like a car horn. And also has the front headlight, rear tail/brake light, and colorful ninebot-like side ring lights. Taking all of that together, I would say the Kingsong 16 inch wheel is the most "complete" wheel with all of the features packed into it along with a 30 kph top speed, 680 Wh battery, and 800W motor. Even with all of that, the one I rode was not the final production version.... that should be coming out in February with improved cooling and updated firmware. The 18 inch beast was just that.... a beast. I thought my Gotway Msuper was large, the kingsong 18 is like an EUC for Shaquille O'Neal... who by the way did stop by the Kingsong booth and tried to ride the 18 inch wheel. Maneuverability is very limited as you would expect but I guess that's not the point of this wheel. It's an all out cruiser which is even more evident by the tall design which allows for a nice cushion attachment so you can sit down. Also has bluetooth speaker and front and rear lights which by the way dynamically change depending on which direction you are riding. It's a nice touch that I hadn't heard about before. NINEBOT/SEGWAY Ninebot sucked. Well.... not really.... more like just much more stricter on not letting anybody except for celebrities like Shaq ride their products. I wanted to try out their ninebot P but apparently their "P" model on display was actually an E+ with just the P shell. BMX rider Adam Kun and another ninebot/segway employee were the only ones riding the E+ around on the little track. I actually did talk to Adam a little bit while I was holding my Gotway Msuper which he really seemed intrigued by. Seemed like a cool guy, Too bad I couldn't show him what I had in my EUC skills. FASTWHEEL It's funny for their wheel to be called fastwheel when their top speed is only 20 kmh. The design is boring and the power was weak (it almost completely cut off on me a few times as I was testing its acceleration). It is very light though which I guess has that going for it. This is definitely a beginners wheel but I would still get an Airwheel X8 (even X3) over this. There was a German media crew when I was at the fastwheel booth and they saw me riding on the fastwheel and had me do some shots for them. I even helped the female host on trying to ride the fasthwheel which she was able to get the hang of much faster than most people. I have no idea which specific German news it was but if any of you guys in Germany see a video feature an Asian kid riding on a fastwheel let me know! The Fastwheel "Ring".... this thing was a complete trip. Good looking design, light, but very impractical on everything else. The very thin design resulted in a platform that was also "thin" which meant riding it felt like balancing on a tightrope. Definitely needs some getting used to but it is harder than a regular EUC especially when I tried to make tight turns. It was also loud from the geared motor and shuttered/shook every time I came to a semi-hard stop. I have video of me riding it so you can see/hear for yourself. I don't see any practical use for this even for light short distances. You'd be better off getting a regular cheap EUC. FASTWHEEL C1....... not an EUC but an interesting transport device which some of you already have seen before. It's basically a weight scale with wheels and I must say after trying it out for 5 minutes I still could not get how to actually get it to go where I wanted it to go. I even asked the fastwheel rep to show me and even he didn't have full control of it. Plus its slow. It's stupider than all of the "hoverboards". Airwheel Airwheel had their entire unique product line to show off including the A3. The A3 was very easy to ride along with the S6. In fact, I think the S6 is perfect as an office chair replacement and even for disabled people in the workplace since its smaller and more nimble than a typical wheelchair. But I was there for EUCs and I tried out their Q series wheels which I've always wanted to feel how the double wheel EUC handles. And I must say it handles just as I expected..... its very easy and stable (enough to stand still on) but trying to turn especially sharp turns takes much more effort. Maybe its worth for a beginner to get a double wheel EUC but I still think everybody will be much better off just learning on a single wheeled EUC. One of the Airwheel girl reps noticed how good I was at riding and invited me over to China so we could compete. I thought that was cute. https://goo.gl/photos/cjxMyJpRNYSxcUwJ6 F-WHEEL Technically the company name is Shenzhen Counterbalance Technology Co., LTD. and not F-wheel. F-wheel just refers to their line of products. Dolphin One...... I've seen this EUC before and was intrigued by it since it has an integrated trolley handle, bluetooth speakers, head and tail lights, TWO! (2) USB charger ports, and even a damn kickstand integrated within the pedal. Too bad that this was uncomfortable to ride because it is so wide and there was no padding on the part of my leg that actually did touch the wheel. The pedal is made out of plastic..... its a hard stiff plastic since I didn't notice any bending but still I wonder how long those pedals can hold up over time. Power was lacking as this one also almost cut off when I tried to accelerate hard. https://goo.gl/photos/1X2VxcWTTR9Zwa7v8 Red-Rabbit.... This one I hadn't seen before. The pedals were actually metal which is good but uses the airwheel design with the gap in the middle... no good. Power was lacking on this one too. But two very unique things about this wheel... the head and tail light are actually removable USB dongles. So if you had to charge your phone you can just take one of these lights out to plug into the USB port. Also there are two hole slots on top to attach a bicycle-type seat on top although they didn't have this accessory on hand for me to try. Fwheel also had their own weight scale with wheels called the icarbot. Still just as stupid and unreliable as Fastwheels version. GYROOR First time hearing about this company but they had two unicycles to show off. Their T8 seems to be their main unicycle while the orange one is not even listed in their catalog.... so I have no idea what was going on with that guy. Both lacked the power I wanted and the orange one was really uncomftable to ride because it was so wide. And plus I hated the oval pedals. And also didn't help that both of their tires were low on air. Very underwhelming wheels. Hosowell Out of all of the wheels I rode, this one was the most uncomfortable. The bulging sides right where my legs make contact is such a stupid design. Plus the hard silicon does not offer any padding whatsoever. And power sucked on this one of course. However the rep there seemed grateful for my feedback on the wheel. Made me think that this wheel did not go through any field testing. GENERIC BRANDS This one was from xingtech but didn't actually have it at the show. I just saw the picture of it on the poster and thought it was a very unique design. This one was from what seemed like an Airwheel distributor since they were displaying all of Airwheel's products except with another branding on it. This next one was the most pathetic one of all. There was no air in the tire, the battery was low, and the rep did not want to help me out at all on trying to get the EUC up and running or even tell me much about it. Why even bring the damn thing in the first place? OTHER COOL THINGS So as far as non-EUC stuff, I tried out the Rocket Skates. Those were very hard to ride which I expected. Got to see the "Hoverboard"... and by that I mean these guys actually registered/trademarked the name "hoverboard". They own www.hoverboard.com..... and for $4000 they expect a lot of money to be thrown around. IO Hawk was the only American "hoverboard" rebranding company to be at CES. It was funny because they unveiled two new products that have more power, can go a little bit faster, and have crappy bluetooth speakers..... but wouldn't let me try it out because they just released it? Doesn't make any sense but whatever. They are still trying to sell these guys for over $1700. All of the stuff from IO hawk not letting me try out their new wheels is very funny because I ran into their original (and every other American rebranding company) supplier.... Chic-Smart. They let me try the exact brand new products just fine. And of course they are selling the exact same damn thing for less than $1000. But speaking of hoverboards, Lexus was showing off their real hoverboard...... CONCLUSION There were plenty of electric scooters, electric bikes, electric mopeds, electric motorcycles, and electric cars also Nothing really stood out for me other than the moped and motorcycle since you don't see much of those. Overall CES was a lot of fun. Hopefully next year we will have larger showing of EUCs not just from companies but also from enthusiasts and users. Until next year.....
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    During today's group ride the five of us were entering the Azusa River Wilderness Park As we were preceding down the trail (as seen above) we passed a security truck parked on the side, and the guy jumped out and told us, "those aren't allowed here, you have to leave". No use arguing with this guy, that was for sure. So we back tracked to the entrance and were met by a woman from the "office". The guy in the truck obviously called ahead. We had time so we decided to debate the issue with her and see where it went. I asked her if bicycles were allowed and she said yes, but "no electronic or motorized vehicles of any type are allowed". I then, very politely, told her that California had passed AB604 in 2016 that allowed our wheels to go anywhere a bicycle is unless specifically stated otherwise. She said she would talk to the rangers in charge, and proceeded to telephone the main office. We could hear them talking and about 5-minutes later I heard what I never thought I'd hear. "OK, you are allowed on the trail". Our argument actually worked! I'm still amazed as I type this. We got back on our wheels and traveled the trail again. Here we are at the end of the trail, celebrating our victory From left: @Dzlchef, me, Daniel, @Dave U, and @Freewheeler P.s. We almost were not allowed back on the trail because Chris had been vaping, and apparently that's one step removed from child abuse in California. Chris couldn't even have his vaper on his person - they thought that he might use it when they couldn't see us. He had to place it behind a trash bin. I'm really not exaggerating the negative reaction that this state employee had towards vaping. Fortunately Chris was able to get his fix at another less patrolled park
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    Way back in July last year, I started my own personal quest... A quest to find my next wheel! It was at great personal sacrifice that I tried every different wheel that I could find. Travelling to Los Angeles, Australia and Singapore I rode just about every model of all the major brands - and a special thanks to everyone I met up with, for both the wheels that I borrowed and the information that I was able to glean. And following this adventure, it has been a year of exciting new wheels from all of the big players! However after all of the potential, I have now (finally) confirmed my new wheel... Or rather it has been confirmed for me. Unfortunately, Mrs. TFU has advised me that I am not allowed get another wheel for myself, as I have spent all of my allowance starting up my own EUC business here in New Zealand! That's right... It has been so frustrating trying to get quality wheels in New Zealand that I have taken the leap and set it up so that they will be available for everyone! It hasn't been as easy as I had hoped, and there was a lot more paperwork than I would have liked, but everything is now in place, I am working with the manufacturers, and the first order is on the way! So, while I may not be allowed to get myself another wheel just now, I suppose I will be able to console myself with "demonstration wheels" from across the board. Other than the 2-3 Kiwis on the forum, it isn't too relevant to most of you - and it isn't quite live yet - but feel free to have a look if you're at a loose end... https://www.roll.nz/
  39. 26 likes
    It’s raining now and I’m not out riding, so I think it’s time for this newbie to stop lurking and share a few words: How it started, and where it is taking me I am a 60 year old, 6 ft tall ex-bodybuilder, that gained a few pounds of extra weight, fluctuating between 230 to 240 pounds, with troublesome knees. Even with that, I still regard myself as a semi-athletic type that can take a fall and roll with it as needed, like a retired football player. Since my knees are not what they used to be, I was cruising at about 15 mph on an electric assist Giant Bicycle on the local rail-to-trail last October. I noticed an unusual sight approaching quickly in the mirror. A young man effortlessly whizzed by me at about 23 to 25 mph on an electric unicycle. I knew that the Seqway one wheeler was out there because I also have the NineBot MiniPro and have browsed their website. But this one was not that. I was much bigger and faster. That really raised my curiosity. Google lead me to eWheels.com and I drooled over many models. The 16X won the battle for 1st choice because it seemed like it would have the torque needed for a fellow my size. The 16X arrived in mid January. Living in the mid-west of the United States, near Indianapolis, we have somewhat cold winters at my latitude. But the new toy drew me outside for a few hours when the temperature was above 20 degrees F. Colder than that and I would practice the basic footwork in the garage. Thanks to the many people that posted EUC training videos on YouTube, I was riding reliably at about 2 months of practice. I watched about a hundred training videos and took something of great value from each one. Even a simple comment like “Look and think where you want to go” resonated with me. Like many, I tended to look down right in front of me to see what I might stumble on, which is not good for balance. I played that statement over and over in my mind which caused me to finally look up and out towards where I wanted to go. The bigger horizon gives the brain more information to process a better sense of balance. All the videos that showed the mechanics of footwork and progressive drills where also invaluable. I don’t think I could have done it without all the YouTube help. Those guys taught me what to do and what to watch out for. So I don’t push my battery that hard and tend to recharge early so I have more safety margin. I was not a fast learner like some that picked it up in a few days. The ankle and pedal thing bit me. As they have said ‘the pedals can be unforgiving’. Wear some ankle protection to soften the blow. I dropped the 16X more times than I wanted to. It seemed to brush off the beating with only some scuffs and scratches. The many videos of the fun rides on YouTube kept me inspired. I have watched almost all of Mike’s videos from Sweden. I am envious of the network of bike lanes, paths, and trails that go everywhere. The weather and vegetation is similar to where I live, so I was glad to see the batteries can still provide good power at lower temps. I’ve soaked up videos of rides around New York city, Boston, Colorado, Moscow, Taiwan, Japan, and Los Angeles. It has been like a great tour around the world. It is nice to know that most of us around the world enjoy the same things. Well, being 60, I knew that, but this YouTube tour of the world reinforced it. A GotWay Monster from eWheels arrived next at my door and I have been riding it for about 2 weeks now. I really enjoy that one for touring around the small town I live in. It has opened up the back alleys and smaller, quiet neighborhood roads that we just don’t have time to bother with when we are driving our cars. It gives a whole new perspective of where I live. I alternate rides between the 16X and the Monster. Each one has something to teach me. The 16X is good for a local park with some steep hills, gravel pathways, and winding sidewalks. I’ve taken it for adventure rides too. But the Monster is the better touring machine for me due to its stability, which allows me to feel more comfortable going a bit faster and just looking around and enjoying the ride more. The strong, less stable 16X has me focused on riding it more, with fewer moments of looking around and enjoying the sights. The GotWay MSP will be the next wheel to enjoy, hopefully by mid to late April 2020. The bigger 2500 watt motor should hopefully provide torque similar to the 16X and the 18 inch wheel is right between the Monster and 16X. That one has the makings of being the favorite. The King Song 18XL also seems interesting with its 2200 watt motor and excellent trolley handle like the 16X. That would be a great one to run errands on. That might also be a great one to keep in the trunk of the car to help with mobility at some tourist destination, after all the Corona business dies down. EUC riding has been great exercise for the legs, even with bad knees. It amounts to a lot of isometric exercise. The legs have adapted and firmed up a lot. They are almost as firm as the old bodybuilding days. The raw power of youth is not there. But the muscle tone is very much on par with the old days. I tend to stop about every twenty minutes and rest my feet and calve muscles for 2 or 3 minutes and then go again. I’m finding that the riding time is increasing and the resting time is decreasing. Sometimes I think I’m turning into some kind of blend of a “Crouching Tiger” and a “Drunken Master”. Sometimes I'm in weird situations due to unexpected terrain disturbing my line, or I suddenly changed my mind on where I wanted to go, and the body is starting to automatically do all sorts of compensation moves to keep balance. Most of the time I’m a “Straight Man” though, who is starting to pull some tricks out of the bag, whatever is needed. It is not always a successful trick. But 99% of the time, it is a successful bail off with the old guy staying on his feet. Fortunately the stumbles have been at low speed. That’s when I push my limits of maneuverability. The faster I go, the more alert, conservative, planned things are. When thinking about the expense of the new addiction, I relate it to the other things in life. To me, EUC riding is very much the same kind of fun and entertainment as motorcycle riding, which I’ve done a lot of in my years. I think we ride both for the same reason .... to blow the stink off. For the cost of an average quality one liter street motorcycle, a guy can have a fleet of EUC’s.
  40. 26 likes
    Hi, I'm happy to announce that Samsung (Tizen-based) smartwatch owners will soon get support for their watches in EUC World application. It was possible thanks to the support provided by @Jason McNeil from eWheels.com and by other donators that supported this project. Now I'm preparing to set up a development environment and need some informations that will help me better suit needs of majority of Samsung watch owners. This is why I've created this poll. It is addressed to everyone using or planning to use Samsung watch, not only for EUC World users. This poll includes all Samsung devices, not only Tizen-based and this was intentional.
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    I have to admit, I'm very saddened by what I read It seems that King Song has chosen the worst possible way to solve the problem they apparently have caused themselves through the wrong sales and pricing policy. They could simply limit the functionality of the application to basic functions, excluding the possibility of firmware updates - just like it is in EUC World and DarknessBot. Lack of any aftersales support would also be understandable. What King Song is doing by rendering wheels unusable is considered a crime in Poland, where such an act is punishable by 3 months to 5 years in prison (Article 288 of the Criminal Code). I suspect that in many other countries King Song's action would also be considered a crime. Regardless of this, such action also violates consumer protection laws that are in force throughout the European Union. A possible lawsuit in this case would hit not only King Song, but also its European distributors. I hope that King Song will reconsider its actions and withdraw from this illegal practice, especially as it damages not only users but the company itself. @Jack King Song, please do your best to convince King Song management to reconsider their actions. Certainly there are much better ways to fight unauthorized export. At the same time, I would like to make a clear statement: while some of the functions of EUC World are not supported in King Song wheels intended for the Chinese market, EUC World does not and will not block or otherwise interfere with these wheels. EUC World is supported by EUC riders community and developed with users in mind. While I am open to working with wheel manufacturers to ensure compatibility and functionality on current and future wheels, EUC World will remain independent of any wheel manufacturer. I can vouch for this personally. And finally - I strongly encourage everyone to buy wheels from local dealers. Regardless of wheel manufacturer.
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    Recently we've had a couple Customers report 16X cut-out events, one of these Customer has had moderate injuries, resulting in being bed ridden for over a week. The commonality of these incidents has been retention of v1.05, fearing the dreaded voltage reduced speed drop. Unlike v1.06, the speed reduction on v1.07 has been moderated to a 5kph reduction at ~33%, which then declines linearly from there. Beyond the voltage speed reductions, KS claims to have made other motor tweaks in the firmware to yield more torque. It really is not worth the risk of getting injured for the sake of eking out a couple more kph on reduced battery. Please don't wait until you get a cut-out before upgrading. UPDATE 17th Nov: Another v1.05 Customer had a cut-out last evening, went down at max 30MPH, he's shaken but alright, his Wheel is a mess. Don't delay this update.
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    This is what retirement looks like for me, as of yesterday
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    Too soon? Naw, it can never be too soon! Tattoo idea:
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    With the introduction of the eScooter sharing craze, trade has surged from what was a very robust early year, to the current level, where it's difficult to satisfy demand & keep up with all the communications. I've opened up a new service center in Tucson, Arizona, with two very capable full-time employees (another one will be starting before the end of the month), who will be taking on many of the post-support functions I had been struggling to keep up with. My apologies to everyone who not received the usual level of service recently. As of today, the graphic below is the expected delivery timeline for the four new Wheels making their way out of the R&D departments, to the assembly line for mass production, & eventually to our Customers hands/feet: Gotway MSuper X: despite being the last manufacturer to release details of their new MSuper X, current guidance is that they'll be the fist company to start production of the new model in volume. We have an initial order of 50x of these, consisting of a mix of the 'batteryless' type (to use your existing ACM/MSuper packs from, priced at $1070), 1300Wh ($1600) & 1600Wh ($1900). Gotway have an excellent track record for getting their new products out-the-door in time, it's very probable these will be in the hands of preorder Customers in late June. King Song 18L: KS are running few weeks behind from their original estimates. From what I gather from my internal sources, they've finalized the product, with manufacturing set to commence over the next few weeks. KS has very kindly sent over an early release sample, expected to arrive this Tuesday. The 18L will be available in either the same black matte finish as the 16S & a glossy white. Inmotion V10F: Inmotion were the first out of the gate, but it's been difficult to obtain any meaningful supply of the V10F. Since putting down the deposit on March 15th, we've only been able to secure 30x of these until mid-June, then another 4 weeks for shipping. Ninebot Z Series: probably the most eagerly anticipated, Ninebot have not done a very job to get this Wheel out in time for the warmer weather. Based on our historical sales, I'd estimate that seasonality accounts for >60% of purchase factor; miss this narrow summer window & Customers will hop onto other Wheels. I'm embarrassed to admit that the Z10 has been sitting around for four days. Wanted to keep it looking pristine for a photo shoot with the V10F & 18L. Planning on doing a comparative review late next week,.
  46. 26 likes
    Here's the promised video. I bought along a Drone, it made it 10' in the air, then immediately received a warning that all of Beijing, 6,490 sq miles is a no fly zone, so much for that plan! This from the country that gave us DJI.
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    A little story some of you may find interesting... Yesterday I was taking a mid-afternoon ride along the beach on my KS14C. Beautiful Southern California day. As I was approaching the Hermosa Beach Pier I spotted two wheelers in the distance! Amazing. In the year that I've been involved with EUC's I've never come across a fellow rider, let alone two. As I approached from behind (they were traveling at a leisurely pace) I saw that that they were a young couple, in their early 20's I would say. He was riding an MCM and she was on a two wheeled Inmotion wheel. I smiled and waved as I rode past them. Needless to say they were really surprised. We stopped and chatted for a nice long time. The MCM was bought from Dion (@myfunwheel) and the Inmotion from @Jason McNeil (EWheels). All within the last couple of months. They had no knowledge of the forum and our local group rides that I organize. I think that I may have found a couple of new recruits. Hopefully they will join the forum. Now Brian, he was a little frustrated with his wheel because it would always tilt-back, and was about as fast as the Inmotion (i.e., not very fast). I took it for a little spin and sure enough, tilt-back must have been set to 10mph or less. I whipped out my phone and reconfigured his wheel (with his permission of course). Immediately he saw a huge change in his wheel. It felt like he just received an updated EUC. He looked very happy as he started zooming around (I turned tilt-back off). We rode together for a bit more before we went our separate ways. I'm hoping to see them during our meetup with @The Fat Unicyclist In hindsight I thought it must have been very unique from their perspective to have some guy pass them by on another wheel, stop, and reconfigure their wheel to make it perform much better, and then zoom away. I hope to have more encounters like this in the upcoming years
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    I love my Msuper V3. But: when things get wet and dirty, it has this nasty habit to throw everything up my back the road has to offer. Uhhh, I don't like mud slinging (even though it seems to become increasingly popular in politics). So, here is my solution: a 3D printed mudguard! Pick it from the print bed, peel off the brim, smack it on your Msuper and you're set to go! If you have access to a 3D printer (pretty much any one will do), download the model file from here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2083438, use up some 70 grams of ordinary PLA filament (< $2) and enjoy riding through Siberia in the fall. If not, google "3D Print Service" and find somebody, who prints it for you for less than $20. I put the file into public domain, so anybody can use it privat or commercially. I positively invite GotWay (happy New Year, @Linnea Lin Gotway & @Jane Mo! Does CNY come with New Year's resolutions, too?) and the nice distributors in this forum to use it. Give it your own branding if you like. And folks, please don't complain, if a distributor asks 50 bucks per piece - they have all those warranty obligations, can't exclude liability (like I do ) and still need to make a living... Here's my test ride today on Tempelhof airfield:
  50. 26 likes
    I've been trying to get my head around how the motor control in EUCs (or in general with 3-phase brushless direct current motors, BLDC's) works, and been meaning to write this post for a good while (a "raw" -version of this has actually sat on my hard drive for months). @Henrik Olsen's question about the mosfets sparked me to finally get around to quickly read this through, make a few small additions and corrections and finally "publish" it here in the forums... So here goes, hopefully I corrected most of the typos etc, and it reads fairly easily, it's been written in parts every now and then, and sometimes I might jump from one topic to another a bit abruptly. I'm an amateur when it comes to this stuff, so I might use some "unorthodox" terminology and there could be many mistakes, factual errors and misunderstandings on my part, so I wish that the people who really know this stuff could chime in and correct if and when I've gone wrong. There are loads and loads of sources around the internet with more precise (and complex) articles and documents about how the motors work and how they're driven (or can be driven), but hopefully this could give a fairly good (albeit simplified) explanation of the basics of the motor drives. I'll try to keep it simple (most of the time) and skip over a lot of things like inductance, magnetic fields, different motor builds, mathematics, and most of the details on electronics as I'd likely just get those parts wrong anyway , and mostly concentrate on a basic overview of how the motor is being driven (or at least what I understand of it) Probably other people and sources can explain these parts better and in much more detail, if anyone's more interested. To start off, I'm not going to talk about 3-phase brushless motors, but a basic brushed DC motors ("1-phase") at first, as it's easier to understand the basics of the half-bridges through such an example. I've also seen (small) 3-phase motors sold with "1-phase" connections (just power + and -, and maybe PWM-input or not even that), where the controlling circuitry is inside the motor, so this could be such a case too. In a brushed motor, as the name suggests, there are parts called "brushes" that actually have mechanical connection to the coils in the rotor (the moving part of the motor). The coils actually act as electromagnets, and if you've played with magnets some time in your life, you know that opposite poles (north and south) attract each other and similar poles (north and north or south and south) repel each other. Simplified, as the brushes slide across conductors in the turning rotor, they cause current to flow through the winding coils ("energizing the coils"), which creates a magnetic field ("north"-pole in one and "south"-pole in the other) that keeps the motor turning in one direction, as the coils attract or repulse the (usually permanent) magnets in the stator (the stationary part of the motor). There are splits in the "ring" where the brushes touch, so the brushes will alternate between touching different "ends" of the coils of the motor, causing the magnetic field of the coils turn on and off and to change polarity (depending which brush they're touching or no brush at all) to keep the rotor moving as the poles of the permanent magnets attract / repel them. If the motor would need to turn in opposite direction, the polarities of the wires connected to the brushes could be changed to the other way around, ie. you'd change the + and - wires going into the motor to the opposite connections. No complex electronics are needed to drive the motor (at least in one direction), simply plugging it into a power source will do. The downside is that the mechanical brushing causes friction, noise and the brushes wear down, so they need to be changed every now and then when they wear out. But how we (slowly) get from here to BLDC-motor control is a fairly simple circuit called H-bridge (not a half-bridge, a H-bridge). Wikipedia explains an H-bridge simply as: A H bridge is an electronic circuit that enables a voltage to be applied across a load in either direction. These circuits are often used in robotics and other applications to allow DC motors to run forwards and backwards. A H-bridge could be built using just four (mechanical) switches: So when switches S1 and S4 are closed, the VCC (+) and GND (-) of the power source are connected across the motor, running it in one direction. Open those switches and close S2 and S3, and the polarities will be opposite, running the motor in the other direction. Making the upper ("high-side") and lower ("low-side") switch (be it a mosfet or BJT or whatever) on the same side of the H-bridge conduct at the same time (like S1 & S3 or S2 and S4 above) would cause what is called a "shoot-through", ie. the current won't flow through the motor, but instead directly passes through the switches, causing a short circuit (only resistance in the current path is that of the switch-elements and the wires). Now, using mechanical switches isn't that much more handy than just switching the wires in the opposite connections. That's why the H-bridge is usually built from transistors. Transistors can be controlled electronically and used as high-speed (non-mechanical) switches, so you basically use just two states for them: fully conducting (open) and not conducting (closed, although sometimes you could see these terms used vice versa, ie open = not conducting and closed = conducting, I'll just use terms "conducting" or "on" and "not conducting" or "off" to prevent any misunderstandings). Actually, transistors can be used in-between these two extreme states to make them conduct only partially, for things like (audio-)signal amplifying, but that's outside the scope of this, as only switching is needed for motor driving. Depending on the type of transistor, the conductivity over it can be controlled either by current or voltage. In the below animation, bipolar junction transistors (BJTs) are used for and H-bridge, with signals coming from INA and INB to switch the different transistors between conducting and not conducting. Our wheels use what are called MOSFETs (metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor, a certain type of transistors) instead of BJTs. Mosfets are voltage-controlled, unlike bipolar junction transistors, which are current-controlled (but still need a certain amount of voltage to overcome the PN-junction... Yeah, I won't go into that here :P). There are more different types of transistors (J-Fets, IGBT's...), but I won't get to them here, as I only have some experience with BJTs and mosfets, and the wheels use mosfets anyway. So, now we could have electronical directional control over a (brushed) motor by turning on two transistor in opposite sides of the bridge, one on the high-side and one on the low-side. The next step is to control the speed of the motor (don't worry, I'll get to BLDC's and how this all relates to them in a while). A motor also acts as a generator, it actually produces it's own voltage when it's turning. This is called back-EMF (back electromotive force) or BEMF in some sources. When the motor is not turning, the back-EMF is 0 volts, and when it's running, it produces a voltage that raises linearly with the rotational speed of the motor. When the motor's turning in the "correct" direction caused by the voltage from the batteries, back-EMF polarity will be opposite to the voltage from the battery direction. So, if you connect a battery with some voltage X to the brushed motor, if will start turning and reach some speed. If you take a battery with twice the voltage, 2 * X, it should rotate at twice that speed (assuming it can overcome the increasing friction and won't burn due to overvoltage/current etc etc ). This is probably a good point to mention about the current in the motor. When the battery is first connected to a non-moving motor, the motor isn't turning and the back-EMF is thus 0V. There's a voltage difference between the battery and the back-EMF, and it's this difference that causes the current to flow. Simplified, there's always some resistance in the circuit (for example the motors' internal resistance from the coil-wires, other wires, connectors etc), and current equals voltage divided by resistance. So still keeping it simple, as the resistance stays (or here is assumed to stay) the same, the bigger the difference between the back-EMF voltage and the voltage from the battery, the higher the current. If there's a big difference, the current will be higher, if there's a small difference, the current will be lower, and if there's no difference (battery voltage = back-EMF), there's no current. Current is the thing causing torque in the motor, so when the battery with a constant voltage is first connected and the motor is not turning, the difference between these two voltages is at its greatest. This will cause high current to flow, causing high torque and getting the motor moving. As the motor speeds up, the current drops as the difference between the voltages becomes smaller (back-EMF goes up), and the current (and thus the torque) of the motor drop. Ideally, once the motor reaches the speed where the back-EMF equals the battery voltage, the current and the torque would drop to 0 and the motor would be "free wheeling". In reality, the back-EMF is probably slightly below the battery voltage, as the motor has to overcome friction from bearings etc, and there's some current always flowing when running at steady speed. Some motors state constant factors called k-factors that can be used to calculate speed from voltage and torque from current, as they're both linear. Back to the speed control. As the speed of the motor is relational to the back-EMF and the motor changes speed when back-EMF and applied voltage do not "match", we can actually control the speed of the motor by controlling the voltage applied to it. You could use a potentiometer (a variable resistor) to drop the voltage before the H-bridge, but that just wastes power by burning it off as heat in the potentiometer (which itself might burn if it needs to drop a lot of voltage), and you'd have to control it by hand. This is where the fast switching ability of the transistors steps in. You might first think that "partially" switching on the transistor could be used to control voltage, but it's not a very precise method (to my knowledge) with motors and also wastes power in the transistor (again, actually heating up the transistor, which could lead to it burning). Instead of trying to control the voltage by allowing the transistor to conduct only partially, a scheme known as pulse width modulation (PWM) is used. I'll try to explain this as the best I can. PWM is a technique to produce a square wave signal (like those seen above) where the relation between the "on" time (full voltage) and "off" time (zero voltage) can be controlled. During one period, for some part of the period the full voltage is applied, and for the rest of the period, no voltage is applied. Controlling the "width" of the on-partion (full voltage pulse) of the period you get different "duty cycles". 100% duty cycle means that the voltage is at the full value throughout the period and 0% means there's no voltage in the entire course of the period. A single period is usually very short, and the frequency of the PWM is measured in hertz (1/s), meaning how many periods per second there are. Motor controls usually use "low" frequencies for PWM up to some tens of kilohertz (for example, 20kHz = 20000 hertz = 20000 times per second, about the upper limit of very good human hearing range). 20000 times a second might not sound "low", but in electronics-side, the "ITU"-specification for frequencies calls 3kHz-30kHz -range VLF = "very low frequency" When "sufficient" voltage is applied at the "gate" of the mosfet (that's one of the three pins in the mosfets, the other two are "drain" and "source", the functions of these are similar to base, emitter and collector in bipolar junction transistors), the mosfet will allow current to flow between it's drain and source. Depending on the voltage difference between the gate and source, the mosfet will either be fully off (not conducting), then start to partially conduct, and once the voltage difference is "large enough", it will fully conduct. I won't go into gate charges and how to go with driving high-side N-channels here... Now, if we "drive" the gate of the mosfet with a PWM pulse (let's just assume that the on-part of the pulse is of "sufficient voltage", ok? ), the mosfet will conduct during the on-part (full voltage) of the PWM-period, and stop conducting during the off-part of the period. In reality, there is also some delay ("rise and fall times") between the transistor starting to fully conduct after the higher voltage is applied and before it stops conducting after the voltage drops to zero, but for the sake of simplicity, just assume it turns on and off pretty much instantly. So, as the mosfet is switching between fully conducting and not conducting, the motor will get pulses of voltage applied to it. Again simplified, with the switching happening at a high frequency, what the motor "sees" as the incoming voltage is the "average voltage" between the "on"-part and "off"-part of the PWM-period. If the full voltage would be for example 5V, and the on-part of the period would last half of the period, and the off-part would last the second half of the period, the voltage applied to the motor would be half of the full voltage, 2.5V. Using the duty-cycle, it's then easy to calculate the voltages, using a fraction percent-value (100% = 1.0, 50% = 0.5, 10% = 0.1 etc): 100% duty cycle: 5V * 1.0 = 5V 80% duty cycle: 5V * 0.8 = 4V 60% duty cycle: 5V * 0.6 = 3V 40% duty cycle: 5V * 0.4 = 2V 20% duty cycle: 5V * 0.2 = 1V 0% duty cycle: 5V * 0.0 = 0V Being able to change the duty-cycle, and thinking of the average voltage, you can create more complex waveforms than simple square wave. The below image shows a sine-wave -like voltage applied by changing the pulse width between the periods: The thick black line is the voltage applied to the motor, the thinner lines show the PWM-pulse going up and down, at different duty cycles in each period. Nevermind the horizontal line in the middle, it's not related to this. So, I hope from this you can see how using an H-bridge with 4 mosfets can be used to control the direction of the motor (by using "high-side" and "low-side" -mosfets from two opposite sides of the H-bridge) and how the speed of the motor in said direction can be controlled by quickly switching the transistors on and off, to apply different voltages to the motor. Actually, there's current flowing only when the transistors are conducting, the motor connections are "floating" during the off-state, and thus, no current (or very little) is flowing. So actually the motor's alternating between (almost) free-wheeling and motoring, but this happens fast, and "mass is slow", so it has very little effect (you won't notice it). And now, to the "real deal", the 3-phase BLDC motor, which is what (at least most if not all) our wheels use. BLDC: Both the above animations show an "inrunner" -BLDC motor. It means that the "inside" of the motor is rotor (the part that turns) with the permanent magnets. In our wheels, the structure is actually the opposite: the tire on the outer rim of the motor turns, while the stator is in the middle (an "outrunner"-motor). AFAIK, same principles of control apply to both, although the motor characteristics might be slightly different. http://i9.aijaa.com/b/00867/13659072.jpg The basic idea is still the same as in the brushed motor driving: magnetic fields of the coils are used to attract / repel the permanent magnets. In the brushed motor, the brushes handled energizing the coils and it was simply enough to plug a power source into the two connectors of the motor. Here we have three connectors, that then are connected together inside the motor, there are two common patterns, the "wye" (or "y" or "star")-connection and the "delta" (or "triangle")-connection: Personally, I must admit that I don't know the pros or cons of either configuration. To my knowledge, both can be run with similar principles, although the commutation order might differ(?) The motors in EUCs have much more coils and poles than in the usual pictures, I believe this is to give a more precise control over the motor position, ie. finer control. Basically, the upside of a brushless motor is less friction (only mechanical connections are in the bearings), and thus less audible noise (unless you can hear the PWM-frequency like in some wheels ), longer lifetime and (I believe) higher efficiency, although this may vary. The downside is that a much more complex method of driving the motor is needed compared to brushed motors. You can't just plug a battery over two phases and expect the motor to turn. It could maybe twitch a little if the magnetic fields of the coils happen to attract to/repulse from the nearest permanent magnets, and then stay there stationary, all the while heating up the coils and, if the battery/other power supply can supply enough current, probably sooner or later burning them or the power source. So don't do that. To drive a 3-phase motor, you need to energize the phases (and thus the coils) in correct order and at correct time (well, at least some motors should start eventually turning and "catch up" just by energizing the phases in correct order at stable frequency, but that's not really "controlled" way of driving it). For controlling three phases, three half-bridges (not H-bridges) are used: Looks pretty similar to the H-bridge before? That's because a half-bridge is also known as "half-H-bridge". Each of those two mosfets on the high- and low-side form one half-bridge (half of a H-bridge). With three phases, you need three half-bridges (or "one and a half H-bridges"? ) The reason I started with the brushed motors and the H-bridge is that if you understood the simpler H-bridge (how it can be used to control the direction and the speed of the motor), the same principles work here: the speed/current of the motor can be controlled with PWM and direction of the motor can be controlled based on which two phases are conducting at a time (high-side from one bridge, low-side from the other). The added complexity is that the phases need to be energized in correct order as the motor turns. For this, the controller needs to know the position of the rotor. Typically, EUCs seem to use Hall-effect sensors (Hall-sensors) for detecting the rotor position (there are other ways, like rotary encoders, but I don't think they're used in EUCs). Wikipedia states that: A Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications. A three sensor setup seems to be typical for our wheels and BLDCs in general. Many BLDC-driving documents / articles give out the commutation order of the phases either as a table or as a graph showing the sensor on/off -states and the high/low/floating -states for the phases (for one direction): So there are 6 different "states" (or combinations) of the bridges. The order of states can be different for different motors, so if you try to build your own motor controller, it might take some trial and error to find the correct sequence (and then reverse to run it in the other direction). Also, a brief period of both mosfet "off" (not conducting) is needed when the conducting mosfet on the bridge is changed from high to low (or vice versa), as the mosfet gates need to be "discharged" before the voltage drops below the conducting threshold. This is called "dead time insertion" (DTI), ie. a brief period is waited before continuing operation, otherwise there's a risk of bridge shoot-through (the other mosfet hasn't fully stopped conducting, and the other starts conducting -> potential short circuit through the bridge between battery plus and minus). In addition to the position, the hall-sensors can be used to measure the speed (how fast the sensor states are switching from one position to another) and direction of the motor (the order in which the sensors switch on and off). Somebody also suggested that after certain speed, the EUCs could actually switch to sensorless speed/position-detection (maybe the hall-sensors don't switch up and down fast enough after certain speed?), using the back-EMF voltage from the floating phase to induce the rotation speed. I haven't studied the subject much, so I won't go into it, but I did learn that this requires fairly precise timing (otherwise you'll get false readings). Earlier I mentioned that the voltage difference between the batteries (well, actually the average from the PWM-pulses, when using that for control) and the back EMF is what causes the current to flow. Now, as current causes the torque of the motor, and higher torque means higher acceleration (faster change in speed), the applied voltage can also be used to control torque. Larger voltage difference, larger current, larger torque. So in addition to controlling the speed, the wheels must control the torque to keep us from falling down. The final piece of the puzzle for self-balancing is not actually in the motor, but of course the gyroscope/accelerometer in the mainboard (to my knowledge, the accelerometer is there only to make reading the gyroscope more accurate, I've understood it tends to wander and the acceleration info can be used to correct this in the filters). In principle, the idea is simple: the gyroscope is used detect the pitch (tilting back and forth for acceleration/deceleration) and roll (shutting down after falling on its side) of the wheel: When the wheel starts tilting forwards, the motor must be accelerated to a faster forward speed (or get moving if stationary, or decelerate if moving backwards) to keep it balanced. If tilting backwards, the motor must be slowed down to prevent falling backwards (when moving forwards). There might be some form of "dead-zone" allowing the wheel to tilt a little bit backwards or forwards before the motor reacts (one way of doing "soft"-riding mode), also some wheels allow the pedals tilt more when turning in slow speed (so probably they use the speed-, pitch- & roll-information for this). Of course, the real deal is the balancing logics and fine tuning of the acceleration/speed control/dead-zone/allowing tilts when the wheel is turning (ie. the roll is different from zero) etc. That's what makes different wheels different to ride, and probably is one of the most, if not the most important asset of any single wheel-company, as that's what really distinguishes it from other similar wheels and gives the riding "feel" of the wheel. There are a ton of more technical details I've skipped over above, like different and more complicated ways the PWM-drive can be done (sine-wave driving, space-vectors, field-oriented control, whathaveyou...), motor inductances, inductive spikes, etc etc., mostly because it goes beyond the scope of "basics", but also because I'd probably get a ton of details plain wrong But, were not really finished yet with the basic motor control: there is (at least) one more thing: braking (yeah, that's nice to have), namely, regenerative braking. There are multiple ways to brake an electric motor: you could use mechanical brakes (yeah, well, not really with self-balancing wheels ), let it free-wheel to a stop (with self-balancing wheels, not really an option either), use resistive braking (which causes tons of heat that must be dissipated), "plugging-type" braking, where the motor control actually tries to drive the motor backwards (causing what is called "slipping"), dynamic/"rheostatic" braking (of which there are actually multiple different types of) and finally, regenerative braking. I haven't actually delved that deep into braking the motor, especially the dynamic/rheostatic -types, but I do know a little bit about the basics of regenerative braking. The best fairly brief explanation of regenerative braking I've found is this: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56186/how-can-i-implement-regenerative-braking-of-a-dc-motor Although it talks of a single-phase DC motor and H-bridge, I believe the same principle can be (and is being) used for 3-phase motors also, just that the phases must be switched in "correct order" and correct timing. For a much better explanation than mine, you probably should read through the accepted answer in that question. As said before, the motor also acts as a generator/dynamo due to the back-EMF induced in it while it's turning. When you get moving with the wheel, you actually gain "kinetic energy" (E = mv2 or something along those lines?); that is, the chemical energy in the battery packs converts into electric energy, which then converts into heat (thermal energy) and motion (kinetic energy). Although we often talk about "energy losses" or "power losses", energy never actually disappears. The "losses" just mean that part of the energy turns into something we don't want (like heat instead of motion). But anyway, some part of the energy dissipated from the batteries has turned into motion (and some part has been "lost" to other forms of energy), but now you need to slow down or stop. Again, energy never disappears completely, so when you brake, the motor actually has to do "dump" the extra kinetic energy somewhere, it can't just disappear into thin air (well, technically, it CAN disappear into thin air, in the form of heat ). Purely resistive braking is a bit troublesome due to high power that must be dissipated, so to do braking with resistive load, huge power resistors with large heatsinks would be needed. The basic idea of regenerative braking is (or at least seems to be, from what I've understood ;)) that low-sides of the half-bridges (probably two bridges at a time in a 3-phase motor) are conducting simultaneously, causing the current from motor to flow through them and back to the motor to brake and "charge" the magnetic fields of the motor coils, then one high-side is switched open (there could be some leakage through the high-side mosfet body-diodes?) to "shoot" off the charge (discharge the coil magnetic fields) into the battery (during which time the motor is not braking). Basically the back-EMF voltage must get (at least momentarily) higher than the battery voltage for the current to flow in "reverse" and charge up the packs. "Discharging" that into the packs, the voltage drops again, and then the low sides are opened again to brake more and charge up again. Repeating this fast, the motor is "switching" between braking and dumping the energy into the battery packs. As this is done fast (probably at the same PWM-frequency as when normally driving the motor), you feel it as constant braking (same as you do when you accelerate, you could say that the motor is actually switching "on" and "off" real fast, but the frequency is high and mass is slow, so you won't notice it). Probably (a large?) part of the energy is burned off as heat in different parts (motor coils, wiring, mosfets, even the battery cells), so it's nowhere near 100% efficient, more like "convenient" (and there is the upside that it does charge your packs, at least a little), as no extra parts are needed. The rate of deceleration (or "negative acceleration", if you will) plays a role in the amount of (momentary) power generated during braking, and there have been reports of the mosfets actually burning on mainboards during strong braking. On Vee's MCM2s, I tested "not-that-aggressive-yet-strong" -braking, and got peaks above 2kW (if memory serves). Even if Gotway has that huge 1.5-2x error on the current measurements, it's still above 1kW at peak (but only for a moment). I don't know how high it could go with lots of mass and really strong braking, but I guess "pretty high" Apparently high enough to fry something, if you look at some experiences here. Well, that's pretty much my short(ish) explanation of the motor-drive... I was going to write about the details of things much more, but decided against it, as it would probably make this too long and there are many, many things I'm not that sure about
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