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  1. 34 points
    Hello everybody, have fun! It was a lot of fun for me to do it, and a good motivation to heal my broken arm during this summer. Thanks to all the people who organize this contest. Hirsute
  2. 31 points
    EDIT: As promised I added two more tires to the comparison – 5. Chao Yang H-5167 and 6. CST E-Bike PRO. You can find the description, video, scores and final conclusion below. As some of you may know from my first post in Inmotion thread, I have recently bought my first wheel - Inmotion V5F+. After learning how to ride the wheel, I started using it for daily commute to work and going around the city. I am absolutely thrilled by the wheel, but after few hundred kilometers and some strange and unexpected behaviour I started to doubt the tire that came with it. Therefore I bought 3 other 14 inch tires and made this little comparison that I would like to share with all that might be interested and could find it useful: DESCRIPTION: 1. Hota Tyre Slick, soft rubber tire, with very simple and shallow tread. This was the tire that came with my wheel and quite soon after learning to ride I became suspicious that this might not be very good tire. It could be a good tire but only for asphalt without any surface imperfections. Pros: very manoeuvrable and has a really good grip on good asphalt surface. Not bumpy when jumping down from reasonable heights. Low roll resistance. Cons: it REALY (!) likes to misbehave when you have any vertical lines or deformations along your route, you are immediately “railed”. This might be because when it warms up it gets “mushy” and the slick surface probably seeps into the deformations on the road. Uncomfortable when bumping into curbs. Before I tried other tires I thought that I maybe don't know how to handle the curbs because my knees sometimes hurt after longer rides. Now I know that is not the case because I never experienced this with other tires. For some reason this tire was also unable to hold the pressure above 40psi. I would pump it to 45psi and after few kilometers it would be back to 40. I used the same inner tube on all tires I tested. 2. CST Rhino King This is new model from CST with “puncture protection” and the most expensive electric bike tire I could find on Alibaba/Aliexpress/Taobao, so I thought it might be good. It is by far the most hard / rigid tire of the whole bunch, with relatively complex and very pronounced tread. This would be a very good tire if not for one fatal flaw. Pros: Stable during straight riding, good grip both on asphalt and gravel, quite comfortable when bumping into curbs, has puncture protection. Cons: Well this tire has one fatal combination for the EUC – it is very hard and it has such a steep fall-off on the tread that it is almost unreasonably difficult to control during leaning left or right. When you ride straight with only small left or right course changes it is perfect, but when you need to make any little bit more aggressive turn or lean into one side, you really have to work to keep the wheel from falling down :-( 3. Schwalbe Big Apple So called “balloon” tire, from well known Schwalbe brand. Simple and shallow but dense tread on soft and almost slick rubber surface. This tire has different construction from the other tires, with soft, paper thin side walls from different material (think its kevlar reinforced?) and is very deformable when not inflated. Many sources say that it has to be inflated to minimum of 55psi when used on EUC or otherwise you risk damage to the side walls, so I tested it both on 45psi (like other tires) and on 55psi. This is the only tire with slightly lower width – 14x2.0 (others are 14x2.125) Pros: Best tire for bumping into curbs and amortising any kind of bumps, especially when inflated to 45psi, but even on 55psi it’s still the best in this regard. Very good grip on asphalt. Relatively good directional stability, especially considering the shallow tread and soft surface. Low rolling resistance. Cons: Bit bumpy when jumping down from curbs, not the best grip on gravel. There is also potential damage to side walls (as reported by dmethwin on Firewheel thread). I travelled 80km on this tire and even after this low mileage there was some black dusty “residue” coming off the side walls when I dismounted the tire from the wheel. Not certain how this would influence safety in the long run. 4. Chao Yang H-5146 Tire from harder rubber, but not like CST Rhino King, about half as hard. Pronounced and complex tread. Pros: Most stable tire of all tested on any surface, it just goes where you want it to go without any unexpected surprises. Inmotion V5F+ is a very agile small wheel, which sometimes represented a challenge for relatively inexperienced driver like me (total of 800km in 45 days) when faced with nasty road anomalies , but this tire gives it another dimension in stability without compromising manoeuvrability! Very good directional stability and handling of vertical anomalies on the asphalt surfaces. Good grip both on asphalt and gravel. Cons: Could be better when bumping into curbs, but this is not a real con, only wishful thinking after being spoiled by bump amortisation performance of the Schwalbe Big Apple, which is the only tire out of the tested ones that is better in this regard. This tire has quite pronounced grip and therefore two slick tires have a little bit lower rolling resistance. 5. Chao Yang H-5167 Medium soft tire with added puncture protection layer. Very complex and relatively pronounced tread. Pros: This tire forced me to rethink the score table. I expected something quite similar to Chao Yang H-5146 just with added puncture protection, and although these two tires share many good characteristics, this is in some aspects entirely different beast. In one word – SPEED – this thing rolls like crazy, I was actually convinced that my V5F+ somehow restored to the lower speed limit after the tire change because I have never before reached 25km/h speed limit and tiltback so easily. And the best thing is that it manages to maintain almost all of that wonderful control and stability that H-5146 exhibits. Great handling of anomalies on the road, good impact absorption when bumping into curbs, not bumpy while jumping… and on top all of that it has additional puncture protection layer. Cons: Slightly less (5-10%) controllable than H-5146, probably due to crazy good rolling resistance 6. CST E-Bike Pro If I am not mistaken, this is the tire that usually comes with Kingsong and Gotway wheels (although I can't say how it behaves in sizes other than 14 inch !). Medium soft rubber, pronounced tread. I just had to test at least one more CST tire to have something from another serious manufacturer as a reference to compare to the two Chao-Yang’s. This tire is made of different rubber compound, it’s not super soft but it sticks like crazy, reminds me of the winter car tires. It is also the only one of the tested tires that screeches on the glossy surfaces like marble tiles and those surfaces in shopping mall garages. Pros: Good rolling resistance, great grip on asphalt and good on gravel, fabulous handling of curbs and jumps (very close to Schwalbe Big Abble, and that is a balloon tire -could be that rubber compound?) Cons: Slightly sharper fall-off from the center of the tread to the sides – not nearly as unusable like on the CST Rhino King, but you can still feel it, especially when compared to the Chao-Yang’s. This makes it bit less controllable and sometimes “jerky”. Although it has good grip on the gravel, you have to work more due to that fall-off to keep it under control when wheel bumps around on the uneven surface. I am probably just spoiled by Chao-Yangs by now… VISUAL COMPARISON: SCORE: Tire brand / type Hota Tyre CST Rhino King Schwalbe Big Apple Chao Yang H-5146 Chao Yang H-5167 CST E-Bike Pro Size 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.00 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.125 Ride Comfort 8 8 10 10 10 10 Control 10 2 9 10 9 7 Grip Asphalt 10 8 8 10 10 10 Grip Gravel 4 8 6 8 8 8 Impact absorption 5 8 10 9 9 10 Directional stability 2 10 8 10 10 10 Temperature stability 4 10 10 10 10 10 Rolling resistance 9 8 10 8 10 9 TOTAL: 52 62 71 75 76 74 I am not expert on tires and all of the above are only my personal impressions and conclusions after using these tires on my EUC. All of the tires are tested on the same Inmotion V5F+ and with the same inner tube (Tube brand is Chao Yang). I tried each of the tires for at least 80km. CONCLUSION: Chao-Yang H-5167 is the tire that stays on my wheel. It’s simply best overall and checks practically all important “boxes”. H-5146 would be best beginners tire, it’s so controllable, relaxed and forgiving. Both CST tires have great rubber compound, but the tread has this pronounced center section and then somewhat steep fall-off, which results in less smooth experience and requires more work to control the wheel.
  3. 31 points
  4. 30 points
    Hi Everyone, here is my submission for the contest. My Dad has even let me have my own profile to enter the movie Hope you like it.
  5. 29 points
    I guess this falls under the "Impressions" part of R&I. My daughter drew a short comic to summarise the EUC basics, publishing it below with her permission. In case you can't tell, she adores penguins... (Full res PNG with transparent background.)
  6. 28 points
    So I've been back from CES in Las Vegas for a week now and I think I'm now ready to give my report back on how it all went at least on the EUCs side of things. Last year was my first time ever to go to CES and this year I had a mission to really check out every EUCs that was here and any other cool tech. The EUCs companies that were at this years CES were Kingsong, Ninebot, Airwheel, Fastwheel, F-wheel, and a few no-name brands. Other personal transport companies included a few electric scooters, electric bikes, and literally around 100 "hoverboard" companies/distributors. This is going to be a long post so I'll try to section this out the best I can. If you want a TL;DR version, scroll all the way down for my short CES EUC summary video. To start off, I was very excited to be able to meet this guy! If you don't know, that is Alton Brown, Food Network celebrity. Bringing my EUCs to CES So I planned on bringing my Kingsong 14C and Gotway Msuper to CES. The kingsong I brought because I needed my firmware to be updated/fixed and the Gotway just as a backup. I didn't want to risk being rejected at the airport so I just shipped my wheels using uship.com for the first time and I must say I recommend them over traditional shipping methods for being cheaper and more flexible. It is basically the "ebay" for shipping and is ideal for when you have to ship any unusual/akward items. My shipment guy arrived on Sunday morning and had my wheels in Vegas by Monday night right when my flight arrived in Vegas. I was able to carry my Kingsong on the plane ride back home though which I talked about in another thread. But I was able to ride up and down the strip at night with no problems at all either from pedestrians or police. I was even able to comfortably navigate the escalators. But one of the main reasons for having my wheels at CES was logistical..... Parking near/at the convention is very limited and expensive. So I parked my friend's car in one of the free parking lots on the strip and then just rode the EUC to CES. I then locked up my EUC to a bike rack like this: It worked out like a charm. And even going in between the LVCC and the Sands Expo took the same amount of time as the shuttle buses did since I talked to a guy as he was getting on the bus and then saw him again when he got off the bus at the Sands. KINGSONG I first saw kingsong on the first day since I wanted them to flash updated firmware on my kingsong 14C. Met Tina and the rest of the gang who were very nice and accommodating. They had the new KS-14C Mark III along with the 16 inch and 18 inch model. I liked the updated design of the 14C with the integrated controls and the rubber pedals. Riding it felt more or less the same as my version. The 16 inch model I didn't think would feel good because of its protruding leg pads but it felt surprisingly very good. The pads were more softer and more comfortable than ninebot's pads and the power and responsiveness felt strong and tight. I wish I was able to take it outside to really test the speed and acceleration though. The integrated handle trolley is a very nice feature although I am not sure how strong the mechanism is when its retracted in since it has to support nearly 30 pounds. The bluetooth speaker sounded nice and just as loud if not louder than the one in the 14C. It also comes with extra noises to make within the app like a car horn. And also has the front headlight, rear tail/brake light, and colorful ninebot-like side ring lights. Taking all of that together, I would say the Kingsong 16 inch wheel is the most "complete" wheel with all of the features packed into it along with a 30 kph top speed, 680 Wh battery, and 800W motor. Even with all of that, the one I rode was not the final production version.... that should be coming out in February with improved cooling and updated firmware. The 18 inch beast was just that.... a beast. I thought my Gotway Msuper was large, the kingsong 18 is like an EUC for Shaquille O'Neal... who by the way did stop by the Kingsong booth and tried to ride the 18 inch wheel. Maneuverability is very limited as you would expect but I guess that's not the point of this wheel. It's an all out cruiser which is even more evident by the tall design which allows for a nice cushion attachment so you can sit down. Also has bluetooth speaker and front and rear lights which by the way dynamically change depending on which direction you are riding. It's a nice touch that I hadn't heard about before. NINEBOT/SEGWAY Ninebot sucked. Well.... not really.... more like just much more stricter on not letting anybody except for celebrities like Shaq ride their products. I wanted to try out their ninebot P but apparently their "P" model on display was actually an E+ with just the P shell. BMX rider Adam Kun and another ninebot/segway employee were the only ones riding the E+ around on the little track. I actually did talk to Adam a little bit while I was holding my Gotway Msuper which he really seemed intrigued by. Seemed like a cool guy, Too bad I couldn't show him what I had in my EUC skills. FASTWHEEL It's funny for their wheel to be called fastwheel when their top speed is only 20 kmh. The design is boring and the power was weak (it almost completely cut off on me a few times as I was testing its acceleration). It is very light though which I guess has that going for it. This is definitely a beginners wheel but I would still get an Airwheel X8 (even X3) over this. There was a German media crew when I was at the fastwheel booth and they saw me riding on the fastwheel and had me do some shots for them. I even helped the female host on trying to ride the fasthwheel which she was able to get the hang of much faster than most people. I have no idea which specific German news it was but if any of you guys in Germany see a video feature an Asian kid riding on a fastwheel let me know! The Fastwheel "Ring".... this thing was a complete trip. Good looking design, light, but very impractical on everything else. The very thin design resulted in a platform that was also "thin" which meant riding it felt like balancing on a tightrope. Definitely needs some getting used to but it is harder than a regular EUC especially when I tried to make tight turns. It was also loud from the geared motor and shuttered/shook every time I came to a semi-hard stop. I have video of me riding it so you can see/hear for yourself. I don't see any practical use for this even for light short distances. You'd be better off getting a regular cheap EUC. FASTWHEEL C1....... not an EUC but an interesting transport device which some of you already have seen before. It's basically a weight scale with wheels and I must say after trying it out for 5 minutes I still could not get how to actually get it to go where I wanted it to go. I even asked the fastwheel rep to show me and even he didn't have full control of it. Plus its slow. It's stupider than all of the "hoverboards". Airwheel Airwheel had their entire unique product line to show off including the A3. The A3 was very easy to ride along with the S6. In fact, I think the S6 is perfect as an office chair replacement and even for disabled people in the workplace since its smaller and more nimble than a typical wheelchair. But I was there for EUCs and I tried out their Q series wheels which I've always wanted to feel how the double wheel EUC handles. And I must say it handles just as I expected..... its very easy and stable (enough to stand still on) but trying to turn especially sharp turns takes much more effort. Maybe its worth for a beginner to get a double wheel EUC but I still think everybody will be much better off just learning on a single wheeled EUC. One of the Airwheel girl reps noticed how good I was at riding and invited me over to China so we could compete. I thought that was cute. https://goo.gl/photos/cjxMyJpRNYSxcUwJ6 F-WHEEL Technically the company name is Shenzhen Counterbalance Technology Co., LTD. and not F-wheel. F-wheel just refers to their line of products. Dolphin One...... I've seen this EUC before and was intrigued by it since it has an integrated trolley handle, bluetooth speakers, head and tail lights, TWO! (2) USB charger ports, and even a damn kickstand integrated within the pedal. Too bad that this was uncomfortable to ride because it is so wide and there was no padding on the part of my leg that actually did touch the wheel. The pedal is made out of plastic..... its a hard stiff plastic since I didn't notice any bending but still I wonder how long those pedals can hold up over time. Power was lacking as this one also almost cut off when I tried to accelerate hard. https://goo.gl/photos/1X2VxcWTTR9Zwa7v8 Red-Rabbit.... This one I hadn't seen before. The pedals were actually metal which is good but uses the airwheel design with the gap in the middle... no good. Power was lacking on this one too. But two very unique things about this wheel... the head and tail light are actually removable USB dongles. So if you had to charge your phone you can just take one of these lights out to plug into the USB port. Also there are two hole slots on top to attach a bicycle-type seat on top although they didn't have this accessory on hand for me to try. Fwheel also had their own weight scale with wheels called the icarbot. Still just as stupid and unreliable as Fastwheels version. GYROOR First time hearing about this company but they had two unicycles to show off. Their T8 seems to be their main unicycle while the orange one is not even listed in their catalog.... so I have no idea what was going on with that guy. Both lacked the power I wanted and the orange one was really uncomftable to ride because it was so wide. And plus I hated the oval pedals. And also didn't help that both of their tires were low on air. Very underwhelming wheels. Hosowell Out of all of the wheels I rode, this one was the most uncomfortable. The bulging sides right where my legs make contact is such a stupid design. Plus the hard silicon does not offer any padding whatsoever. And power sucked on this one of course. However the rep there seemed grateful for my feedback on the wheel. Made me think that this wheel did not go through any field testing. GENERIC BRANDS This one was from xingtech but didn't actually have it at the show. I just saw the picture of it on the poster and thought it was a very unique design. This one was from what seemed like an Airwheel distributor since they were displaying all of Airwheel's products except with another branding on it. This next one was the most pathetic one of all. There was no air in the tire, the battery was low, and the rep did not want to help me out at all on trying to get the EUC up and running or even tell me much about it. Why even bring the damn thing in the first place? OTHER COOL THINGS So as far as non-EUC stuff, I tried out the Rocket Skates. Those were very hard to ride which I expected. Got to see the "Hoverboard"... and by that I mean these guys actually registered/trademarked the name "hoverboard". They own www.hoverboard.com..... and for $4000 they expect a lot of money to be thrown around. IO Hawk was the only American "hoverboard" rebranding company to be at CES. It was funny because they unveiled two new products that have more power, can go a little bit faster, and have crappy bluetooth speakers..... but wouldn't let me try it out because they just released it? Doesn't make any sense but whatever. They are still trying to sell these guys for over $1700. All of the stuff from IO hawk not letting me try out their new wheels is very funny because I ran into their original (and every other American rebranding company) supplier.... Chic-Smart. They let me try the exact brand new products just fine. And of course they are selling the exact same damn thing for less than $1000. But speaking of hoverboards, Lexus was showing off their real hoverboard...... CONCLUSION There were plenty of electric scooters, electric bikes, electric mopeds, electric motorcycles, and electric cars also Nothing really stood out for me other than the moped and motorcycle since you don't see much of those. Overall CES was a lot of fun. Hopefully next year we will have larger showing of EUCs not just from companies but also from enthusiasts and users. Until next year.....
  7. 26 points
    I've been trying to get my head around how the motor control in EUCs (or in general with 3-phase brushless direct current motors, BLDC's) works, and been meaning to write this post for a good while (a "raw" -version of this has actually sat on my hard drive for months). @Henrik Olsen's question about the mosfets sparked me to finally get around to quickly read this through, make a few small additions and corrections and finally "publish" it here in the forums... So here goes, hopefully I corrected most of the typos etc, and it reads fairly easily, it's been written in parts every now and then, and sometimes I might jump from one topic to another a bit abruptly. I'm an amateur when it comes to this stuff, so I might use some "unorthodox" terminology and there could be many mistakes, factual errors and misunderstandings on my part, so I wish that the people who really know this stuff could chime in and correct if and when I've gone wrong. There are loads and loads of sources around the internet with more precise (and complex) articles and documents about how the motors work and how they're driven (or can be driven), but hopefully this could give a fairly good (albeit simplified) explanation of the basics of the motor drives. I'll try to keep it simple (most of the time) and skip over a lot of things like inductance, magnetic fields, different motor builds, mathematics, and most of the details on electronics as I'd likely just get those parts wrong anyway , and mostly concentrate on a basic overview of how the motor is being driven (or at least what I understand of it) Probably other people and sources can explain these parts better and in much more detail, if anyone's more interested. To start off, I'm not going to talk about 3-phase brushless motors, but a basic brushed DC motors ("1-phase") at first, as it's easier to understand the basics of the half-bridges through such an example. I've also seen (small) 3-phase motors sold with "1-phase" connections (just power + and -, and maybe PWM-input or not even that), where the controlling circuitry is inside the motor, so this could be such a case too. In a brushed motor, as the name suggests, there are parts called "brushes" that actually have mechanical connection to the coils in the rotor (the moving part of the motor). The coils actually act as electromagnets, and if you've played with magnets some time in your life, you know that opposite poles (north and south) attract each other and similar poles (north and north or south and south) repel each other. Simplified, as the brushes slide across conductors in the turning rotor, they cause current to flow through the winding coils ("energizing the coils"), which creates a magnetic field ("north"-pole in one and "south"-pole in the other) that keeps the motor turning in one direction, as the coils attract or repulse the (usually permanent) magnets in the stator (the stationary part of the motor). There are splits in the "ring" where the brushes touch, so the brushes will alternate between touching different "ends" of the coils of the motor, causing the magnetic field of the coils turn on and off and to change polarity (depending which brush they're touching or no brush at all) to keep the rotor moving as the poles of the permanent magnets attract / repel them. If the motor would need to turn in opposite direction, the polarities of the wires connected to the brushes could be changed to the other way around, ie. you'd change the + and - wires going into the motor to the opposite connections. No complex electronics are needed to drive the motor (at least in one direction), simply plugging it into a power source will do. The downside is that the mechanical brushing causes friction, noise and the brushes wear down, so they need to be changed every now and then when they wear out. But how we (slowly) get from here to BLDC-motor control is a fairly simple circuit called H-bridge (not a half-bridge, a H-bridge). Wikipedia explains an H-bridge simply as: A H bridge is an electronic circuit that enables a voltage to be applied across a load in either direction. These circuits are often used in robotics and other applications to allow DC motors to run forwards and backwards. A H-bridge could be built using just four (mechanical) switches: So when switches S1 and S4 are closed, the VCC (+) and GND (-) of the power source are connected across the motor, running it in one direction. Open those switches and close S2 and S3, and the polarities will be opposite, running the motor in the other direction. Making the upper ("high-side") and lower ("low-side") switch (be it a mosfet or BJT or whatever) on the same side of the H-bridge conduct at the same time (like S1 & S3 or S2 and S4 above) would cause what is called a "shoot-through", ie. the current won't flow through the motor, but instead directly passes through the switches, causing a short circuit (only resistance in the current path is that of the switch-elements and the wires). Now, using mechanical switches isn't that much more handy than just switching the wires in the opposite connections. That's why the H-bridge is usually built from transistors. Transistors can be controlled electronically and used as high-speed (non-mechanical) switches, so you basically use just two states for them: fully conducting (open) and not conducting (closed, although sometimes you could see these terms used vice versa, ie open = not conducting and closed = conducting, I'll just use terms "conducting" or "on" and "not conducting" or "off" to prevent any misunderstandings). Actually, transistors can be used in-between these two extreme states to make them conduct only partially, for things like (audio-)signal amplifying, but that's outside the scope of this, as only switching is needed for motor driving. Depending on the type of transistor, the conductivity over it can be controlled either by current or voltage. In the below animation, bipolar junction transistors (BJTs) are used for and H-bridge, with signals coming from INA and INB to switch the different transistors between conducting and not conducting. Our wheels use what are called MOSFETs (metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor, a certain type of transistors) instead of BJTs. Mosfets are voltage-controlled, unlike bipolar junction transistors, which are current-controlled (but still need a certain amount of voltage to overcome the PN-junction... Yeah, I won't go into that here :P). There are more different types of transistors (J-Fets, IGBT's...), but I won't get to them here, as I only have some experience with BJTs and mosfets, and the wheels use mosfets anyway. So, now we could have electronical directional control over a (brushed) motor by turning on two transistor in opposite sides of the bridge, one on the high-side and one on the low-side. The next step is to control the speed of the motor (don't worry, I'll get to BLDC's and how this all relates to them in a while). A motor also acts as a generator, it actually produces it's own voltage when it's turning. This is called back-EMF (back electromotive force) or BEMF in some sources. When the motor is not turning, the back-EMF is 0 volts, and when it's running, it produces a voltage that raises linearly with the rotational speed of the motor. When the motor's turning in the "correct" direction caused by the voltage from the batteries, back-EMF polarity will be opposite to the voltage from the battery direction. So, if you connect a battery with some voltage X to the brushed motor, if will start turning and reach some speed. If you take a battery with twice the voltage, 2 * X, it should rotate at twice that speed (assuming it can overcome the increasing friction and won't burn due to overvoltage/current etc etc ). This is probably a good point to mention about the current in the motor. When the battery is first connected to a non-moving motor, the motor isn't turning and the back-EMF is thus 0V. There's a voltage difference between the battery and the back-EMF, and it's this difference that causes the current to flow. Simplified, there's always some resistance in the circuit (for example the motors' internal resistance from the coil-wires, other wires, connectors etc), and current equals voltage divided by resistance. So still keeping it simple, as the resistance stays (or here is assumed to stay) the same, the bigger the difference between the back-EMF voltage and the voltage from the battery, the higher the current. If there's a big difference, the current will be higher, if there's a small difference, the current will be lower, and if there's no difference (battery voltage = back-EMF), there's no current. Current is the thing causing torque in the motor, so when the battery with a constant voltage is first connected and the motor is not turning, the difference between these two voltages is at its greatest. This will cause high current to flow, causing high torque and getting the motor moving. As the motor speeds up, the current drops as the difference between the voltages becomes smaller (back-EMF goes up), and the current (and thus the torque) of the motor drop. Ideally, once the motor reaches the speed where the back-EMF equals the battery voltage, the current and the torque would drop to 0 and the motor would be "free wheeling". In reality, the back-EMF is probably slightly below the battery voltage, as the motor has to overcome friction from bearings etc, and there's some current always flowing when running at steady speed. Some motors state constant factors called k-factors that can be used to calculate speed from voltage and torque from current, as they're both linear. Back to the speed control. As the speed of the motor is relational to the back-EMF and the motor changes speed when back-EMF and applied voltage do not "match", we can actually control the speed of the motor by controlling the voltage applied to it. You could use a potentiometer (a variable resistor) to drop the voltage before the H-bridge, but that just wastes power by burning it off as heat in the potentiometer (which itself might burn if it needs to drop a lot of voltage), and you'd have to control it by hand. This is where the fast switching ability of the transistors steps in. You might first think that "partially" switching on the transistor could be used to control voltage, but it's not a very precise method (to my knowledge) with motors and also wastes power in the transistor (again, actually heating up the transistor, which could lead to it burning). Instead of trying to control the voltage by allowing the transistor to conduct only partially, a scheme known as pulse width modulation (PWM) is used. I'll try to explain this as the best I can. PWM is a technique to produce a square wave signal (like those seen above) where the relation between the "on" time (full voltage) and "off" time (zero voltage) can be controlled. During one period, for some part of the period the full voltage is applied, and for the rest of the period, no voltage is applied. Controlling the "width" of the on-partion (full voltage pulse) of the period you get different "duty cycles". 100% duty cycle means that the voltage is at the full value throughout the period and 0% means there's no voltage in the entire course of the period. A single period is usually very short, and the frequency of the PWM is measured in hertz (1/s), meaning how many periods per second there are. Motor controls usually use "low" frequencies for PWM up to some tens of kilohertz (for example, 20kHz = 20000 hertz = 20000 times per second, about the upper limit of very good human hearing range). 20000 times a second might not sound "low", but in electronics-side, the "ITU"-specification for frequencies calls 3kHz-30kHz -range VLF = "very low frequency" When "sufficient" voltage is applied at the "gate" of the mosfet (that's one of the three pins in the mosfets, the other two are "drain" and "source", the functions of these are similar to base, emitter and collector in bipolar junction transistors), the mosfet will allow current to flow between it's drain and source. Depending on the voltage difference between the gate and source, the mosfet will either be fully off (not conducting), then start to partially conduct, and once the voltage difference is "large enough", it will fully conduct. I won't go into gate charges and how to go with driving high-side N-channels here... Now, if we "drive" the gate of the mosfet with a PWM pulse (let's just assume that the on-part of the pulse is of "sufficient voltage", ok? ), the mosfet will conduct during the on-part (full voltage) of the PWM-period, and stop conducting during the off-part of the period. In reality, there is also some delay ("rise and fall times") between the transistor starting to fully conduct after the higher voltage is applied and before it stops conducting after the voltage drops to zero, but for the sake of simplicity, just assume it turns on and off pretty much instantly. So, as the mosfet is switching between fully conducting and not conducting, the motor will get pulses of voltage applied to it. Again simplified, with the switching happening at a high frequency, what the motor "sees" as the incoming voltage is the "average voltage" between the "on"-part and "off"-part of the PWM-period. If the full voltage would be for example 5V, and the on-part of the period would last half of the period, and the off-part would last the second half of the period, the voltage applied to the motor would be half of the full voltage, 2.5V. Using the duty-cycle, it's then easy to calculate the voltages, using a fraction percent-value (100% = 1.0, 50% = 0.5, 10% = 0.1 etc): 100% duty cycle: 5V * 1.0 = 5V 80% duty cycle: 5V * 0.8 = 4V 60% duty cycle: 5V * 0.6 = 3V 40% duty cycle: 5V * 0.4 = 2V 20% duty cycle: 5V * 0.2 = 1V 0% duty cycle: 5V * 0.0 = 0V Being able to change the duty-cycle, and thinking of the average voltage, you can create more complex waveforms than simple square wave. The below image shows a sine-wave -like voltage applied by changing the pulse width between the periods: The thick black line is the voltage applied to the motor, the thinner lines show the PWM-pulse going up and down, at different duty cycles in each period. Nevermind the horizontal line in the middle, it's not related to this. So, I hope from this you can see how using an H-bridge with 4 mosfets can be used to control the direction of the motor (by using "high-side" and "low-side" -mosfets from two opposite sides of the H-bridge) and how the speed of the motor in said direction can be controlled by quickly switching the transistors on and off, to apply different voltages to the motor. Actually, there's current flowing only when the transistors are conducting, the motor connections are "floating" during the off-state, and thus, no current (or very little) is flowing. So actually the motor's alternating between (almost) free-wheeling and motoring, but this happens fast, and "mass is slow", so it has very little effect (you won't notice it). And now, to the "real deal", the 3-phase BLDC motor, which is what (at least most if not all) our wheels use. BLDC: Both the above animations show an "inrunner" -BLDC motor. It means that the "inside" of the motor is rotor (the part that turns) with the permanent magnets. In our wheels, the structure is actually the opposite: the tire on the outer rim of the motor turns, while the stator is in the middle (an "outrunner"-motor). AFAIK, same principles of control apply to both, although the motor characteristics might be slightly different. http://i9.aijaa.com/b/00867/13659072.jpg The basic idea is still the same as in the brushed motor driving: magnetic fields of the coils are used to attract / repel the permanent magnets. In the brushed motor, the brushes handled energizing the coils and it was simply enough to plug a power source into the two connectors of the motor. Here we have three connectors, that then are connected together inside the motor, there are two common patterns, the "wye" (or "y" or "star")-connection and the "delta" (or "triangle")-connection: Personally, I must admit that I don't know the pros or cons of either configuration. To my knowledge, both can be run with similar principles, although the commutation order might differ(?) The motors in EUCs have much more coils and poles than in the usual pictures, I believe this is to give a more precise control over the motor position, ie. finer control. Basically, the upside of a brushless motor is less friction (only mechanical connections are in the bearings), and thus less audible noise (unless you can hear the PWM-frequency like in some wheels ), longer lifetime and (I believe) higher efficiency, although this may vary. The downside is that a much more complex method of driving the motor is needed compared to brushed motors. You can't just plug a battery over two phases and expect the motor to turn. It could maybe twitch a little if the magnetic fields of the coils happen to attract to/repulse from the nearest permanent magnets, and then stay there stationary, all the while heating up the coils and, if the battery/other power supply can supply enough current, probably sooner or later burning them or the power source. So don't do that. To drive a 3-phase motor, you need to energize the phases (and thus the coils) in correct order and at correct time (well, at least some motors should start eventually turning and "catch up" just by energizing the phases in correct order at stable frequency, but that's not really "controlled" way of driving it). For controlling three phases, three half-bridges (not H-bridges) are used: Looks pretty similar to the H-bridge before? That's because a half-bridge is also known as "half-H-bridge". Each of those two mosfets on the high- and low-side form one half-bridge (half of a H-bridge). With three phases, you need three half-bridges (or "one and a half H-bridges"? ) The reason I started with the brushed motors and the H-bridge is that if you understood the simpler H-bridge (how it can be used to control the direction and the speed of the motor), the same principles work here: the speed/current of the motor can be controlled with PWM and direction of the motor can be controlled based on which two phases are conducting at a time (high-side from one bridge, low-side from the other). The added complexity is that the phases need to be energized in correct order as the motor turns. For this, the controller needs to know the position of the rotor. Typically, EUCs seem to use Hall-effect sensors (Hall-sensors) for detecting the rotor position (there are other ways, like rotary encoders, but I don't think they're used in EUCs). Wikipedia states that: A Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications. A three sensor setup seems to be typical for our wheels and BLDCs in general. Many BLDC-driving documents / articles give out the commutation order of the phases either as a table or as a graph showing the sensor on/off -states and the high/low/floating -states for the phases (for one direction): So there are 6 different "states" (or combinations) of the bridges. The order of states can be different for different motors, so if you try to build your own motor controller, it might take some trial and error to find the correct sequence (and then reverse to run it in the other direction). Also, a brief period of both mosfet "off" (not conducting) is needed when the conducting mosfet on the bridge is changed from high to low (or vice versa), as the mosfet gates need to be "discharged" before the voltage drops below the conducting threshold. This is called "dead time insertion" (DTI), ie. a brief period is waited before continuing operation, otherwise there's a risk of bridge shoot-through (the other mosfet hasn't fully stopped conducting, and the other starts conducting -> potential short circuit through the bridge between battery plus and minus). In addition to the position, the hall-sensors can be used to measure the speed (how fast the sensor states are switching from one position to another) and direction of the motor (the order in which the sensors switch on and off). Somebody also suggested that after certain speed, the EUCs could actually switch to sensorless speed/position-detection (maybe the hall-sensors don't switch up and down fast enough after certain speed?), using the back-EMF voltage from the floating phase to induce the rotation speed. I haven't studied the subject much, so I won't go into it, but I did learn that this requires fairly precise timing (otherwise you'll get false readings). Earlier I mentioned that the voltage difference between the batteries (well, actually the average from the PWM-pulses, when using that for control) and the back EMF is what causes the current to flow. Now, as current causes the torque of the motor, and higher torque means higher acceleration (faster change in speed), the applied voltage can also be used to control torque. Larger voltage difference, larger current, larger torque. So in addition to controlling the speed, the wheels must control the torque to keep us from falling down. The final piece of the puzzle for self-balancing is not actually in the motor, but of course the gyroscope/accelerometer in the mainboard (to my knowledge, the accelerometer is there only to make reading the gyroscope more accurate, I've understood it tends to wander and the acceleration info can be used to correct this in the filters). In principle, the idea is simple: the gyroscope is used detect the pitch (tilting back and forth for acceleration/deceleration) and roll (shutting down after falling on its side) of the wheel: When the wheel starts tilting forwards, the motor must be accelerated to a faster forward speed (or get moving if stationary, or decelerate if moving backwards) to keep it balanced. If tilting backwards, the motor must be slowed down to prevent falling backwards (when moving forwards). There might be some form of "dead-zone" allowing the wheel to tilt a little bit backwards or forwards before the motor reacts (one way of doing "soft"-riding mode), also some wheels allow the pedals tilt more when turning in slow speed (so probably they use the speed-, pitch- & roll-information for this). Of course, the real deal is the balancing logics and fine tuning of the acceleration/speed control/dead-zone/allowing tilts when the wheel is turning (ie. the roll is different from zero) etc. That's what makes different wheels different to ride, and probably is one of the most, if not the most important asset of any single wheel-company, as that's what really distinguishes it from other similar wheels and gives the riding "feel" of the wheel. There are a ton of more technical details I've skipped over above, like different and more complicated ways the PWM-drive can be done (sine-wave driving, space-vectors, field-oriented control, whathaveyou...), motor inductances, inductive spikes, etc etc., mostly because it goes beyond the scope of "basics", but also because I'd probably get a ton of details plain wrong But, were not really finished yet with the basic motor control: there is (at least) one more thing: braking (yeah, that's nice to have), namely, regenerative braking. There are multiple ways to brake an electric motor: you could use mechanical brakes (yeah, well, not really with self-balancing wheels ), let it free-wheel to a stop (with self-balancing wheels, not really an option either), use resistive braking (which causes tons of heat that must be dissipated), "plugging-type" braking, where the motor control actually tries to drive the motor backwards (causing what is called "slipping"), dynamic/"rheostatic" braking (of which there are actually multiple different types of) and finally, regenerative braking. I haven't actually delved that deep into braking the motor, especially the dynamic/rheostatic -types, but I do know a little bit about the basics of regenerative braking. The best fairly brief explanation of regenerative braking I've found is this: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56186/how-can-i-implement-regenerative-braking-of-a-dc-motor Although it talks of a single-phase DC motor and H-bridge, I believe the same principle can be (and is being) used for 3-phase motors also, just that the phases must be switched in "correct order" and correct timing. For a much better explanation than mine, you probably should read through the accepted answer in that question. As said before, the motor also acts as a generator/dynamo due to the back-EMF induced in it while it's turning. When you get moving with the wheel, you actually gain "kinetic energy" (E = mv2 or something along those lines?); that is, the chemical energy in the battery packs converts into electric energy, which then converts into heat (thermal energy) and motion (kinetic energy). Although we often talk about "energy losses" or "power losses", energy never actually disappears. The "losses" just mean that part of the energy turns into something we don't want (like heat instead of motion). But anyway, some part of the energy dissipated from the batteries has turned into motion (and some part has been "lost" to other forms of energy), but now you need to slow down or stop. Again, energy never disappears completely, so when you brake, the motor actually has to do "dump" the extra kinetic energy somewhere, it can't just disappear into thin air (well, technically, it CAN disappear into thin air, in the form of heat ). Purely resistive braking is a bit troublesome due to high power that must be dissipated, so to do braking with resistive load, huge power resistors with large heatsinks would be needed. The basic idea of regenerative braking is (or at least seems to be, from what I've understood ;)) that low-sides of the half-bridges (probably two bridges at a time in a 3-phase motor) are conducting simultaneously, causing the current from motor to flow through them and back to the motor to brake and "charge" the magnetic fields of the motor coils, then one high-side is switched open (there could be some leakage through the high-side mosfet body-diodes?) to "shoot" off the charge (discharge the coil magnetic fields) into the battery (during which time the motor is not braking). Basically the back-EMF voltage must get (at least momentarily) higher than the battery voltage for the current to flow in "reverse" and charge up the packs. "Discharging" that into the packs, the voltage drops again, and then the low sides are opened again to brake more and charge up again. Repeating this fast, the motor is "switching" between braking and dumping the energy into the battery packs. As this is done fast (probably at the same PWM-frequency as when normally driving the motor), you feel it as constant braking (same as you do when you accelerate, you could say that the motor is actually switching "on" and "off" real fast, but the frequency is high and mass is slow, so you won't notice it). Probably (a large?) part of the energy is burned off as heat in different parts (motor coils, wiring, mosfets, even the battery cells), so it's nowhere near 100% efficient, more like "convenient" (and there is the upside that it does charge your packs, at least a little), as no extra parts are needed. The rate of deceleration (or "negative acceleration", if you will) plays a role in the amount of (momentary) power generated during braking, and there have been reports of the mosfets actually burning on mainboards during strong braking. On Vee's MCM2s, I tested "not-that-aggressive-yet-strong" -braking, and got peaks above 2kW (if memory serves). Even if Gotway has that huge 1.5-2x error on the current measurements, it's still above 1kW at peak (but only for a moment). I don't know how high it could go with lots of mass and really strong braking, but I guess "pretty high" Apparently high enough to fry something, if you look at some experiences here. Well, that's pretty much my short(ish) explanation of the motor-drive... I was going to write about the details of things much more, but decided against it, as it would probably make this too long and there are many, many things I'm not that sure about
  8. 25 points
    Here is the latest updated video from Jimmy and Juliana, the smooth little duo Now featuring kendama, soccer, and as a bonus: the piano stool mod! Enjoy.
  9. 25 points
    I just wanted to take a second to Rant a little bit, then I'll feel better. For the past year or so, I've been a big supporter of NineBot. When people have an issue, I want to help, and I've always stood up for the brand, even when NineBot has issues. I tell perspective buyers how to buy the wheel. They make a pretty nice wheel, and mine has been flawless ever since I bought it. I've got over 500 miles on it so far. The problem really started with the NineBot P, but it gets much worse. I have a friend that bought a NineBot P and got to ride it for 2 weeks before the motherboard fried. NineBot decided to stop production of this wheel due to this problem, but they have not offered a fix as of yet. It's been MANY MANY months now, and my friend's wheel is still sitting. That's $1200 just sitting. And now, NineBot Corp announces today that they have Terminated Immediately ALL Contracts with ALL European Distributors until further notice. Some might be picked back up, and some might not. But, in the mean time, all of these distributors are now stuck with a LOT of inventory that they cannot sell with a Warranty! You see, you have to be an Official Distributor, or NineBot will not give warranty support. This is a common tactic with Large Chinese companies. They get a bunch of Distributors to buy a LOT of inventory up front, and then they drop them. The Corporation has already gotten their money, so they don't care. NineBot is worth over 80 Million Dollars, so they aren't hurting in any way. I'm sure most of you know Ian Sampson from www.SpeedyFeet.uk , he's one of the Distributors that was dropped with a few hours notice. At this point, NineBot has not told him whether he will be picked up again or not. NineBot has done this same tactic of leaving their Distributors out of the loop many times. The Distributors are being asked questions by buyers about delays, shipping times, warranty, etc, but NineBot won't answer those questions. NineBot doesn't even answer Customer's Questions when they are sent directly. They let the Distributor take all the heat! This is so unfair in so many ways! Ian is one of the Nicest people, and probably THE best Distributor NineBot has. To be treated this way is incomprehensible. He effectively put NineBot One on the Map, not only in the UK, but all over the world. He has spent thousands of hours selling the NineBot Brand and offering free advice and help along the way. He's posted almost 100 helpful Videos on YouTube to help customers of NineBot. He is probably the fastest responder to questions of anyone I've met with this many customers. And, he personally answers each and every question. I'm sorry about this long rant, but I for one will not buy another NineBot product unless Ian is Reinstated as a Official Distributor by NineBot. And even then, I'm going to have to seriously consider if I want to support this Corporation anymore. The only reason I can think of at this moment would be to help people like Ian and others so they don't loose their shirts on this raw deal. Please take a moment to write NineBot and let them know you are disappointed in their decision and you hope they bring back their most dedicated Distributors. Sales@Segway.com Sales@NineBot.com Sales@Segway.Eu.com If you've gotten this far, thank you for listening... I did not talk to Ian before writing this, so I hope I have not hurt any feelings, but I felt it needed to be said.
  10. 24 points
    @Shoe73 @kmoon my video was not done by Inmotion, or for Inmotion. I did the video myself, like all my other videos, on my computer, with my camera, filmed by friends. If it looks like professionnal, it is because i spend hours to do it and to learn alone how to edit. There is the logo of Inmotion France because i work for them since this september and i have to put their logo on all my videos. If i do EUC with this level it's just because i train. If anyone trains 2h everyday in a little place, he will do the same. I've bought myself the music rights of my video because i wanted to. I've chosen to do the video on the very basic V5 450w 144wh to show that the important is not the wheel, but the Will and the training of the wheeler. And my goal is just to share this technique to see the EUC freestyle level growing in the world. I have began on august 2015 watching the video of Brian Thompson and Alexander Segmüller (thanks to them), and now i'm really happy when i see young people trying to do my tricks.
  11. 24 points
    Here's the next installment in the series. Sadly, her semester starts tomorrow, so productivity may decrease... productivity in extra-curricular activities, that is.
  12. 23 points
    Apologies everyone for lack of activity over the past couple weeks: I've been recovering from a broken rib & some other minor injuries sustained from a GW MCM4 cutting out from under me... This was the first year I had the opportunity to travel out to Vegas for CES, mainly for the purpose to meet some business colleagues & catch-up with the rising star of the eWheels world, King Song. In the two years since I've been working with eWheels, it was the first occasion I opted to forego flying with a Wheel owing to the general hoverboard travel ban—those three days were the longest period I have been without a Wheel, & have to say that being demoted to pedestrian status is like superman being stripped of his superpowers, not something any of us Wheelers would willing surrender In contrast to other tradeshows, what probably distinguishes this year's event from the others is the notable absence of those manufacturers one would expect to be here; with no representation from Inmotion, AirWheel, IPS, GW & only the Ninebot P at the Segway/Ninebot booth [Correction: MV informs me that AW do have a presence at one of the other exhibit halls]. It is my belief that this diminution of enthusiasm is healthy for the industry, which needs serious Wheel makers to focus & concentrate on improving quality & sophistication of the single-wheel platform without trying to jump onto every new craze in the personal mobility market (AirWheel is a classic example of this lack of focus). It's difficult to see how another format of a self-balancing vehicle can better the single-Wheel concept for convenience, ergonomics, convenience, performance & general ride experience. King Song: King Song had their new 16" Wheel at center stage. Improvements from the October prototype: functional LED strips that extend around the sides of the Wheel & an improved durable handle design. In the very confined space one has to try it, I can report that it feels powerful & as would be expected more maneuverable/practical than the 18". However at 16.8kg it's quite a beast to lug around, so that handle will be essential when not ridden. Within the inner workings of the Wheel, I am delighted to announce that they have adopted my suggestion of integrating an active cooling fan that's activated when the board temperature exceeds 50°C. We'll have to test to see how effective this is in practice, since the airflow is fairly restricted—it will be an improvement, the question is is simply how much of one... it's another first in King Song's cap & demonstrate their commitment for innovation & pushing the boundaries with product development. One other important control-board upgrade is that they've doubled the burst capacitor to 2200µF 160106 KS Pedals Video shows the ground clearance turning with the new pedal design. They offer increased foot comfort with a slightly larger surface area & rubberized grippy contacts. 160106 KS Floppy Pedals When in the closed position, the pedals are not quite firmly held shut, Tina says it we be improved in the final release. Either way, it's not really that important. Exposed 16" shell without the side panels: I can't say that the wire strips holding the handle are the best I've seen. 160106 Segway/Nineboot Exhibit Had some interesting conversations with some Sr. Sales Managers—told that there was presence from the Engineering dept. at the show, but I couldn't find anyone... - The Mini Pro is going to be released in the US with exclusive launch on Amazon.com. The distributor is a large tier-one supplier called ESI; these guys are not specialists in mobility transport but they have access to all the top retail accounts like Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc. Rumor is that they're expecting to launch with 50,000 units as the first order. - ESRP will be $1,300 (??!) with an introductory price of $950 on Amazon. I asked the rep if he thought US consumers would be prepared to pay such a high premium if they knew that a lower spec'd version (85kg max vs 100kg for the Pro) of the device is available in China for less than a quarter of the price, $315 vs $1300. Their rather lame excuse is that the US version is more powerful has slightly better range & a higher weight limit—has anyone in market research told the development team that nearly half of the adult male population in the US exceeds the 100kg weight limit?! Another interesting, but I suspect, rather implausible claim, is that in China alone the Mini has already sold 1.5 million units (that's not a typo)! My contacts in China also believe that this is a wild exaggeration; at this figure, even in China, the Mini would be universal & pervasive on the streets & public areas, which, I'm reliably informed, is simply not the case. 160106 FastWheel Ring & Eva FastWheel had a small booth demoing their Ring & improved Eva. The verdict on the Ring is not very good—remember this was a product that was supposed to be available in July of last year. It feels like the gearing system that they've packaged in it is fundamental flawed: it's loose, noisy & generally unrideable. The engineer claims the product remains a work in progress, if they can solve these significant deficiencies of the current design is far from certain. There is much better news about the Eva: around mid-2015 I had the intention of offering the Eva since it was quite cheap, light-weight, & had the right look as well. At that time the Wheel possessed many minor faults but fundamentally the Wheel's wheel handling was simply dreadful. Since then they have added a wider tire, released 26 updates to the Wheel's firmware, increased the pedal height & used a smoother plastic surface for the shell compounded these changes have had a dramatic overall effect, making the Wheel possibly the best in it's class (sub 10kg & $500 USD). It definitely deserves a re-evaluation. Jan 9th Edit: Added section on Ninebot/Segway
  13. 22 points
    This is by no means anything "official", or complete, and everyone's welcome to chime in to propose new/missing/alternative terms and/or corrections. The point is to explain and make the terms less ambiguous and to help with understanding especially some of the more technical topics and discussions here. The usual term used for the electric unicycles has usually been an "EUC" (for Electric UniCycle). John Eucist has explained the reasons for using this term pretty well here: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/119-why-am-i-calling-electric-unicycle-euc-for-short/ , so I don't see the need in repeating. More informally, most people refer to them as "wheels" (wheel in singular form). EUC Parts At simplified level, you could say an EUC typically has four parts: Tire/pedal assembly with a motor in the hub, a mainboard, a battery or batteries and the shell keeping everything together. Battery Battery is the part of the unicycle that stores the energy to move the motor and power the electronics. Most wheels use a battery pack made of Lithium Ion -cells (of which there are many different chemistries, brands and models), typically 16 (around 48-67V empty/full) or 20 (60-84V) cells in series to get the high voltage required to drive the motor, and one or more of these packs to gain high capacity. The total capacity of the battery packs are usually shown as Watthours (Wh), and on average it seems 10-20Wh are needed per kilometer ridden, although this may vary between different EUCs, riders and riding conditions. EUCs with higher battery capacity (usually done by adding more 16/20-cell series in parallel and/or using higher capacity cells) don't only go for longer on single charge, but they usually keep their torque high longer even when the battery has depleted more. BMS (Battery Management System) This is a printed circuit board (PCB) usually located inside one or more battery packs (although in some cases, like at least some IPS models, it can also be integrated directly into the mainboard). The BMS takes care of controlling battery charging, cell balancing, and has some protections (which can sometimes be even dangerous 2017 update: dangerous BMS overdischarge protection problems seem to be a thing of the past), like overdischarge- (low voltage/undervoltage), overcurrent-, short circuit-, and overcharge-protections. Firmware Firmware is the piece of program in the mainboard that has all the logics for the wheel: alarms, speed limits, tilt-back, motor driving logics, balancing the wheel, communicating with a possible mobile phone app over Bluetooth or such, different types of monitoring and alarms (overspeed, overheat, low battery, over-tilt...) etc Hall-sensor Hall-sensors are sensors that can detect a magnetic field. There are such sensors inside the motor that are used to detect the position and RPM of the motor. The mainboard logics need this information to drive the motor. Also the electrical current sensing of the mainboard is commonly done with a chip based on the hall-effect, which is also needed for certain types of motor driving algorithms like Field-Oriented Control and to detect situations where the power output is nearing the limits Mainboard This is the "heart" of the electric unicycle, typically a single printed circuit board (PCB) inside the unicycle, although sometimes there may be more than one board (for example, Firewheels have two boards, the secondary PCB controls things like lights and battery display). Mainboard does and has things like the main MCU (MicroController Unit, the "CPU" of the wheel), driving logics and power feed for the motor, gyroscope and acceleration sensor (MPU, Motion Processing Unit) for balancing and usually something like a Bluetooth-chip for app-support, display control etc. Motor Motor is the thing that moves the EUC. Typically these are 3-phase BLDC/PMSM (Brushless Direct Current / Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor) outrunner hub-motors with direct drive (with the exception of some geared EUCs, like certain older Rockwheels, secong gen Gotway M10's) that is placed in the center of the rim of the tire. Motors have rated and peak power ("wattage"), and the general rule of thumb is "bigger is better". Bigger wattage does not necessarily mean more speed (although that's possible too), as the different motors can be built with different things in mind (speed vs. torque), and there may be maximum speed limitations in the firmware, but higher powered motor can usually keep you balanced in more extreme situations, like going over a bump or a pothole at higher speed. Especially heavy riders should look for high powered (800+W rated?) motors. Pedal Pedal is the part on top of which you place your feet when riding. Typically made of aluminum or steel, there are various shapes and sizes, and they affect the riding comfort of the wheel substantially (especially on longer trips). Also the pedal clearance (height from ground) plays a role in riding, as low clearance can cause the pedal to hit the ground while leaning. The part connecting the pedal to the motor is commonly called Pedal arm, although other names have also been used Shell Shell or shells are the plastic covers within which the other parts (mainboard, batteries, tire/motor-assembly...) are enclosed. Older wheels used to have a single shell made from two parts, more modern wheels commonly have 4 parts to the shell, the "inner shell" that usually only covers the motor and to the outside of which the batteries and mainboard etc are connected, and separate "outer shells" that protect the electronics and the batteries. The difference is that the ones with separate inner and outer shells are much easier to work with if having to do repairs or such. Strap Strap is a piece of ribbon that usually comes with the wheel. The point is to attach the strap to the wheel handle (or similar), so you can prevent the wheel from falling over or getting away from you when dismounting during practice. Most people stop using this after initial learning, although some keep using it, as it can prevent the wheel from keeping rolling on by itself in case of a dismount. Tire Tire (or is it tyre?) usually refers to the outermost rubber part of the tire, but can sometimes be also used to mean the inner tube ("inner tire"). Probably pretty much everyone knows what these are, so not that much point in explaining further... EUC "tech-talk" Cut-off or cut-out There are actually (at least) two types of cut-offs that can occur with an EUC: the first is what I've called "mainboard induced cut-off" or sometimes I've also used the term "[motor] shutdown" or "[high/max]-speed cut-out", and the second is the BMS cut-off. (2017 notice: most wheels nowadays don't seem to no longer cut the power at high speed, "overlean"/"overpowering" near the top speeds or board failure is more common cause of such falls) Mainboard induced/motor shutdown/high-speed cut-out/max speed cut-out: In this type of cut-off, it seems that the mainboard firmware decides to cut the power to the motor for some reason (at least overspeed/too much current passing through the board or the wheel has tilted more than 45 degrees). When the mainboard does the cut off, the wheel doesn't usually totally power down, but keeps playing a warning sound or something to tell the user that the wheel must be reset before it can be ridden again. I have also thought that this might ALSO be BMS-related, if it's the overcurrent/short circuit protection of the BMS triggering, as those don't seem to latch, but release automatically? So the entire wheel would turn off for a split second... (2017 notice: this seems to be pretty much a thing of the past, at least in the mainstream big-name wheels, like KingSong, Inmotion, Gotway, Ninebot...) BMS Cut-off is caused by the overdischarge (undervoltage) protection circuitry in the battery BMS triggering, and usually cuts ALL power to the wheel immediately. This can be particularly dangerous, as it can occur very unexpectedly, causing the rider to fall almost every time. Typically the protection is latched, so if your wheel shuts off and doesn't turn back on until you've plugged it in charger, it was probably because the overdischarge protection had triggered. (2017 EDIT: Link to BMS-shunting thread removed, not necessary anymore) Reset Resetting a wheel means turning it off and back on. Many wheels require you to do this, once the motor shutdown has triggered, although some automatically reset when turned back upright after a fall. RPM (Rounds per minute) RPM is a measure of the turning speed of the motor, how many total rounds (turns) the motor does per minute. Shunt Shunting a wheel means bypassing the discharge-side protection circuits in the battery BMS to prevent the BMS cut-off. Not needed in wheels made after something like late 2015/early 2016? MOSFET "Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor" , a type of power transistor used in the mainboard (usually in a group of 6 or 12) that's responsible of driving the motor by controlling current flow in the 3 phases. Commonly referred to when speaking of the technical details of mainboards, or when someone has a burned board (one of the most common reasons of failed board is burned MOSFETs). EUC Riding Idling Idling is the term for staying pretty much in place by moving the EUC back and forth. This is taxing for the motor (constantly changing direction) and eats up your battery fast, but can be useful for example to wait for a traffic light to change or such. Leaning Leaning refers to using your body to move your center of gravity and control the EUC. You lean forwards and backwards to accelerate/decelerate or change direction. To turn the EUC, you usually lean to the direction you want to turn to (left or right), somewhat similarly as with motorcycles or bikes at faster speeds, although you can also use your hips to "swivel" around for tight in-place turns, at least in slow speeds. Out-lean or overlean Out-lean / overlean is a term used to refer to a situation where the rider leans (usually) forwards so much that the wheel cannot keep him/her balanced anymore (not enough torque), and usually ends up with the rider dismounting (or falling). Out-leaning usually occurs near the top speeds or in uphills, where the wheel motor cannot keep producing enough torque to keep the wheel upright as the rider keeps leaning forward. Usually it occurs only after the full tilt-back (but not always, especially when accelerating fast, the wheel may not have enough torque to tilt-back), so most people shouldn't be able to do it accidentally, unless it's due to low battery (if the tilt-back is based on speed). Overpower Overpowering a wheel refers to similar situation as with out-lean and is often used as a synonym, but seems to be more commonly used to describe a situation where the wheel cannot keep you balanced on level ground, for example when hitting a pothole that causes the wheel to tilt too much to forward or simply out-leaning. Overspeed "Overspeed" used to mean the speed where the mainboard cuts the power to the motor. This was (at least mostly) with older, pre-2016 wheels. Nowadays (November 2017) most wheels will let you push it all the way to the end, but once you hit the max speed (which is at least somewhat dependent on the battery charge state), the voltage difference between the battery and the motor back-EMF (voltage induced by the turning motor) is too low to cause enough current and thus torque, and the rider ends up overleaning the wheel. Power braking This is a pretty "unofficial" term, used to mean the type of braking where you push the wheel in front of you with your legs while simultaneously leaning back and pushing the pedals down to brake as fast as possible. Requires some practice, but not that difficult, and a useful skill when you need to stop "on a dime". Be warned though, on occasion this has led to the mainboard burning the mosfets, although it's not common, especially in the higher end power-wheels anymore. Tilt-back Tilt-back is a safety measure, where the wheel starts to tilt the pedals backwards at higher speeds to warn and prevent the rider from leaning more forwards. While it is possible to lean more and try to get more speed, it might not be wise, as you can overpower the wheel. Most wheels have this (many wheels let the user adjust the tilt-back speeds with app), but some older ones don't have it at all (for example older Gotways and Firewheel).
  14. 22 points
    Last Friday I swapped Wheels on my 24km round-trip daily commute to the preproduction V8, here my notes over this first 100km. Video coming in the next day or two... - Power & Handling: this is where the V8 really shines! It feels super-responsive & powerful. Acceleration feels effortless smooth & minimal pedal flutter. When riding this thing, it feels like a thorough-breed waiting to get out of the gates. Out-of-the-box there's a -1° tilt-back angle set which is not to my liking, found the 3° (forward) to perfect. There have been +37° degree days here in Miami, I've experimented to see how high I could raise the temperature in the control-board from hard riding, but try as I might, unable to raise it more than 10° above ambient temperature. - Tilt-back & lower-power handling: the tilt-back is progressive, it starts to be kick-in around the 25kph mark. To attain a 30kph cruising speed requires a fair amount of determination to push past the 7° incline. In low-battery mode, I noticed that if you try some hard(ish) acceleration there's an attention grabbing buzzer. - Pedals: these are identical to the V5F, 21cm x 12cm. Extremely comfortable, even more so than the V5F, because there is less inward tilt-angle than the V5. This is mainly noticeable over longer journeys, where I don't need to shift my feet around to get blood circulating. A consequence of the lower inward tilt, is that the outer edge is 2cm lower than the V5F, 11cm vs 13cm. With the unique oval design, 11cm should still be more than ample height to prevent pedal scrape on sharp turns. - Range: despite having the same battery pack, the range is definitely not as great as the V5F+. I have yet to do a data-logging session with it, but the possible factors are: 1) larger motor uses more power (obviously, the question is how much more!), 2) riding at higher speed has to fight wind resistance, 3) Aggressive riding. This last was certainly relevant over the past couple days: I find myself showing-off riding a lot harder both in acceleration & braking. - Comfort: the engineering compromises to install an integrated retractable are apparent with the V8: unlike the V5F, with it's wonderfully narrow-padded-contoured-edge, the leading edges on the V8 extend outward & are composed of hard PVC plastic, this is makes it quite uncomfortable to ride! Of course padding can be added, but since this area already extrudes further than other surfaces, such a solution is definitely undesirable. It's curious that despite how badly designed something is, humans are infinitely adaptable. Over the space of these four days testing, I'm finding that it's less annoying/painful. Changed my riding stance so there is less pressure with the sides. There are murmurings that this element might be changed in the production version, if so this would be wonderful Edit 28 Aug: custom molded padding will be included as standard equipment. - App & the Light-Show: I'm not particularly enamoured by Inmotion's App as it is, there's certainly room for improvement. One unique feature for the V8, is where you can display the lighting scheme to apply to the Wheel before actually loading it. After selecting, it downloads the scheme onto the Wheel. These programmable light-shows are up to 60KB in size, & interestingly, can take up to a minute to download to the Wheel, which seems a little slow for today's BT standards. It need hardly be said that the light-show also lights up the attention & envy of those primitive bipeds. I know I wrote about it in another thread, but the marketing strength of the multi-colour LEDs could be the single greatest selling point to the future success of this Wheel. Conclusion: this Wheel has so much promise, on paper there was little to fault it with. As it is, it's still great & joy to ride, but if it is to be a truly great Wheel, a contender for the defacto choice for both novices & experienced riders, in my opinion, the outer shell needs a rethink to allow easier access to the battery bay [Edit 24 Aug: number of connectors has been reduced & getting access to the battery is not as problematic as first supposed] & most importantly it has to be comfortable! Yes, we can probably adapt, or padding added, but why come so far & compromise on comfort? Handle design for the V8 & V5. The V5 handle was very good, why not dispense with the internal handle & use the V5s as a bolt-on? Front view of both Wheels No brake LED strips on the V8, but at least the logo is illuminated Measured 150mm width Compares against 128mm on the V5F+ and padded surfaces as well! Pedal length of 21cm 12.3cm wide: View from the back: there are no screw holes to attach a mud-guard to, but I've used it in the rain on a couple occasions, and haven't really noticed dirt being flung up on the Wheel, so maybe it's not needed Same as above but looking directly down (those XT60 cables in the V5F+ are access to the datalogger) Larger in Motion logo, no printed red stripe or padding for the V8: Plenty of ground/tire clearance, there is little chance of rocks or foreign objects getting lodged within the shell Headlight brightness is the same for both models: throws a bright white light up to 20m ahead Rather look the discreet but futuristic looking blue LED strings of the V5F: Here you can see the width differences between the models, the V8 is fatter in the wrong areas Similar look: there's an additional red band on the V8. You can see the inward-tilt-angle of the pedals in this picture. In the V5F it's pretty pronounced at 15° Tire valve access panel has been redesigned, it easier to open & lock than on the V5F:
  15. 22 points
    First time posting on here! made it just in time for the contest! i hope you like my video
  16. 22 points
    Inmotion V8: Beauty and the Beast! Tested with Mobile app version 6.1.0 (Android - released the day V8 arrived) and firmware upgraded to latest v1.0.901 (unfortunately in a haste to upgrade the firmware I’ve not made the note of the original firmware version with which the wheel was shipped) – update notes mentions only “Improved performance” so I guess no new feature(s) has been added since the wheels left manufacturer. (The new version 6.1.1 of app was released today later on after publishing this.) The bellow text is a collection of my notes over past week since I’ve received the wheel so it might be a bit “inconsistent” at some places or repeat some information as it was written bit by bit at different times. Apologies for not including any picture at the moment – I might try to add some later if it would help to clarify / demonstrate some points better. I’d be most likely editing this post a bit in following couple of days to correct mistakes and to add missing info. Look: The look is simply fantastic. With Side LED (Atmosphere) lights both on as well as off it’s a big head turner and you need to see it in person as no picture can really show that. Its unique design (partially shared with V5F) featuring a glossy black monolith is exquisite and I simply want to put it on display at my room as a piece of art at exhibition It’s without discussion currently one of the (if not THE) best looking wheels out there. You’ll definitely look cool riding it wearing anything from tuxedo over the office outfit to most casual wear. Design: It shows without any doubts that Inmotion have put a lot of effort in designing the wheel from the ground (well in this case from its older but smaller sibling V5F) rather than repurposing “unfit” e-bike parts as many other current EUC manufacturers. Both motor and controller board are in house designs and rest of the wheel shows that attention to details was put into each part used to build the wheel. There are some very minor nibbles here and there but nothing major affecting the overall quality or functionality of the device. Weight / Dimensions: With 13.6 Kg its 3.2 Kg lighter than KS-16 (840 Wh model at 16.8 Kg) making V8 very slim, light and nimble 16” wheel. If you’re coming from 14” wheel and are concerned about manoeuvrability you don’t need to worry at all. With proper tire pressure you’d not even notice you’re riding larger diameter wheel. If you need to carry the wheel regularly like up / down the stairs at apartment building or at office without elevators or to / from train while commuting you’ll appreciate the lower weight for sure. Although V8 is lighter and slimmer than KS-16 it’s also a bit taller (mainly due to its fixed protruding handle unlike KS-16 where the handle is “sank” a bit as it’s acting as dual purpose trolley handle as well) you might find it a bit too tall to be put comfortably under your legs leaning against the seat while in train, bus or metro. Also as it’s lacking any kind of soft cushions or padding at the top areas it’s more likely to slip or even get scratched while leaning against the seat or wall. Some users placed the supplied ankle pads (same like on V5F) on the top “bulges” but those are not really designed for such curved surface and look a bit odd placed there. I’m currently still debating what exactly to place or glue on those to make top more adhesive and protected against scratches. I’m currently in between a “car door” trimming (black or clear – similar to what @Rehab1 used on his V5F+) and the small silicon protective “legs” / blobs I’ve used on my KS-16 at front / rear and sides to protect its shell from hitting walls and sliding off the seat. But even without any protective layer the top shell bulges are comfortable as they curve inwards towards the top so there is no sharp edge pushing against your legs / calves. Ride modes / Comfort / Motor: There is only one ride mode – no mode configuration or selection is currently possible via app or some “secret” power up procedure or button pushing like on some other wheels. The ride mode is very hard / stiff – much stiffer than Player mode on KS-16 – which I personally prefer / like. If you own or have used the V5F before you’d need a zero “acclimatisation” coming to V8 but for other user it might be a bit of “cultural shock” due the firm mode, higher pedals and slim body. I’m still (literally) finding my footing after riding softer KS-16 for several months / thousand Km. Especially turning requires different approach so I’m still trying to perfect that after only one week / 180 KM on V8. The motor is very quiet – no “jet engine” sound of KS or GW wheels. You can still hear to motor doing it’s hard work but is a quiet friendly purr comparing to “angry” growls of KS / GW. With 800W “horse power” I’ve felt no difference to KS-16 during take-offs, breaking, acceleration or climbing inclines / hills. V8 takes me up the long “test hill” without sweat or any complains of overheating. I’m not sure if it’s mainly due to the really hard riding mode or also better motor management but I’ve not experienced any of the “dead zone” / almost shut-off feeling like sometimes still demonstrates on KS-16 even with latest FW (to clarify KS-16 will not shut off but feel a bit unstable for a brief moment during stand still take-off). Speed / Warnings: Maximum speed is 30 Km/h with default speed limit warning set to 25 Km/h. There is no need to ride a specific amount of Km or use any code to “unlock” the higher speed – simply slide the speed warning slider to desired value. However you’ll receive a warning from the app if you try to set the speed limit above 25 Km/h that you should do so only after riding some distance and having experience and you need to click accept or cancel. The V8’s tilt-back is “mild” but progressive at set speed limit accompanied by audible warning (this is an improvement to how tilt-back works on V5F). Despite that I recommend (as with any other wheel) to test tilt-back in a “controlled environment” by setting the speed limit lower and experience it while aware of it kicking in so you’ll be not startled later one when it happens during normal ride. One thing I’m missing though comparing to KS-16 and some other wheels is multiply speed warning. Personally I prefer an audible warning or even better multiply warning prior the actual tilt-back kicks in. On KS-16 I have warnings set to 27 – 28 – 29 - 30 and I’m yet to reach the actual tilt-back as I always slow down at 3 beeps latest. On V8 the tilt-back activates first with audible warning following which is highly unnatural for me at the moment and makes me feel a little bit uncomfortable so I hope @JumpMasterwill manage to include IM protocol in his WheelLog app so it will be possible to use the “advanced” speed warning via his app instead. Hopefully multiply speed warnings could be implemented in the V8’s firmware later on. Other warning option which I’m used to from Solowheel Xtreme is the pedal vibration which I’d like very much implemented by other wheels / manufacturers including IM. Pedals: Pedals are large (21 x 12 cm at widest points) and comfortable with very good grip (so good actually that I’ve had initially a bit of issue repositioning my feet during ride ) - exactly same as on V5F models. The oval look might be deceiving as the contact area with your feet is big enough even for riders with larger shoe sizes. In terms of comfort I don’t feel any difference to KS-16 pedals even though they’re placed higher (top outer edge of pedal is 15 cm above ground) and closer together (distance between inner edges of pedals is 15 cm) due to the thinner body. What I like most comparing to KS-16 is that you don’t need to use so much force to fold / unfold them so you can do so using your feet instead of bending down all the time to unfold them by hand. On KS-16 you can fold the pedal by foot but needs a bit of “kick” to close them. Pedals are higher above ground and are very slim in profile which allows for nice tight turns with risk of scraping ground. Range: At my limited time using the wheel I’ve managed to average about 32 Km from full charge to 10% battery level at already colder weather with some stronger wind and with load over 90 Kg. Speeds averaging above 20 Km/h, reaching regularly my comfort cruising speed of 25 – 26 Km/h. Mostly flat terrain on bicycle lanes without too aggressive accelerations or breaking. Comparing to KS-16 / 840Wh where I can reach comfortably 50 – 55 Km at the same conditions it’s indeed “downgrade” but at the cost of lighter, slimmer and better looking wheel. Replaceable battery advertised by IM as a way to extend its range is at its current implementation IMO the V8’s weakest link at the moment so unless IM will makes some major changes in the shell and battery fitting design please do not consider this as a viable regular option. I’ll return to this point later on in separate post once I’ll investigate further the current amount of screws to be removed to free up the battery as my previous rant on this issue might have been a bit off. Handle / Motor Cut-off button: Integrated motor cut-off button in the bottom part of the handle is a nice QOL feature but unfortunately not as well implemented as it might have been. The cut –off function could be turned off via app so if you don’t plan to use it or want / need to use safety / training belt attached to the handle you can switch it off. The button has also secondary function – to turn off and back on the side LEDs. As this function is not that clearly explained in the supplied manual here is how it works: with the wheel powered on hold the cut-off button and then long press the power button (the same press as if you’d turn on / off the head light) to switch the side LEDs off or on. The default settings is on and the wheel remembers the last setting after power off (unlike the head light which always turns off (similar way like KS-16 always defaults to “Auto” mode). You can also turn the side LEDs via mobile app but only using the main app, not via the notification bar quick access menu. The issue I have with the button itself is that it protrudes way to much out of the bottom part of the handle – even when fully depressed it’s still about 6 - 7 mm above (well below looking from the top) of the surface of the handle making it a bit uncomfortable to carry the wheel around or hold it for prolonged period of time. It also “wobbles” a bit making this feel even worse. It would be much better if the button will activate during firs few millimetres of depressing it but that it would actually completely flush with the handle’s surface when fully depressed. Otherwise the handle itself (ignoring the button annoyance) is large, firm and comfortable and comparing to KS-16 which uses “dual purpose” handle for both trolley handle and main handle (which can feel a bit flimsy at time and possess risk of trolley handle not fully locking in when collapsed) and it has also benefit of being able to be used as a locking point for the “bike lock” which I’d not recommend trying on KS-16 as you can simply extend the trolley handle and rip it off. Not that I’d ever leave any of my EUCs anywhere in public locked to anything else than very scary looking dog Battery Level indicator: The battery indicator is same as on V5F nice large “battery chunks” sections in nice blue colour when full with last two sections turning yellow and red when battery level drops. While it’s placed on the top section of the wheel in front of the power button and meant to be seen from wheel while riding it’s not as visible as it should be mainly during day time (even when overcast or in shadows) especially if you’re taller as first of all its hidden bellow the dark (smoked) translucent plastic shell (the same as on the side covers) and it’s tilted to the front due to the curve of the shell. During the past week (with not so much sunny weather) I’ve struggled to see the indicator at all during the ride. I’m not really sure how to improve this without affecting the slick curves of the wheel as the indicator would need to be either sticking out a bit from the front curve of the shell or be mounted more towards centre but then you’d need most likely to bend down to even see it . I’ve taped a small piece of plastic mirror (for a test) if front of the indicator and that helped a bit but of course it looks ugly. Stand: The “integrated stand” – which is simply a bit of strengthened lip added to each end of the shell at end of the “fender” is basically unusable. Unless the wheel stands on the perfectly flat and smooth surface the wheel will tip over at slightest sneeze or blow of wind. It’s basically usable only for a quick photo ops but I personally would not use it even at home to store the wheel as its dangerous leaving it like that. This is unfortunately common issue for the waste majority of the wheels out there as integrated “kick stands” are not really implemented well or at all (that includes probably the best attempt so far by Ninebot). Combining this with the fact that top of the shell has no soft / adhesive coating on the sides it’s practically impossible to lean the wheel against the wall or furniture without danger of it slipping off or even getting scratched. I remember @Jason McNeilmentioning something about IM including the attachable soft pads with production version of V8 but that this has not happened so far and only standard ankle pads (like with V5F) are included which are a bit hard to properly attach to the top shell “bulges”. Mobile app: While mobile app is at the “top of the pack” comparing to many other EUC mobile apps out there it still have some space for an improvement. The app is clearly professionally designed with simple minimalistic but pleasing UI. It is highly “social media” oriented with 3 out of 4 tabs being used for Sharing (of text, pictures or videos) and commenting or liking the shares, events, clubs, rankings and your profile with collecting points and coins. The community seems to be pretty live though predominantly Chinese as the app covers all current IM products (not only EUCs). The most “important” part for EUC / SCV (as IM call it) details and configuration is at the moment a bit “Spartan” with bare minimum of info provided. Current trip, week ranking, mileage, speed, board temperature (only for V8) and battery level in % is all you get. No average or maximum speeds, current, power or battery voltage as you might be used from KS-16 or other wheels. At the moment it’s unclear if any of those additional values are even provided by (or possible to request from) the wheel via BT LE communication protocol but @JumpMasteris currently researching this to see if IM protocol could be included in his fabulous WheelLog app. Apart of the main IM app there is also the notification bar applet included (indicated by small red i in left corner of the notification bar) which remains active even after closing / exiting the main app. After pulling down the notification bar on your phone it provides a quick access menu with option to connect to the wheel (either of the apps will currently not connect automatically to the wheel upon launch), switch on / off headlight, power off the wheel and display battery level status. The quick menu bar could be closed by tapping at the small cross at its right side. The one of the issue with the app design itself is that it’s using in some areas (like main SCV screen) very small font and even the icons for some functions so it’s pretty difficult to read / see even on large screen phones (it feels more like tablet app). Other obvious issue is the localization. Once again while it’s much better than many other (the “Chinglish” is really minimal here with only about two or three expressions / names translated a bit unusual or incorrect way) there are places still either missing completely or at least partially translations or using the Chinese instead. Finally the app is clearly targeted more as social app rather than EUC / Wheel companion app. While you can perform all necessary service and configuration tasks via SCV / Features option including FW update, diagnostic of the wheel and DIY LED light designing it lacks a bit at the main ride screen as already mentioned above. The app also always default to first “Social page” tab screen instead to more desirable SCV ride screen and will not connect automatically to the wheel so multiply button taps are required to get into “ride” mode. App will also not register the current trip distance if you’ll not connect to the wheel prior the ride. Hopefully most of this could be improved a bit with some push from / help of @Jason McNeil and other distributors and customers. I’ll discuss the DIY LED design feature in a separate post. Replaceable battery: This was one of the main advertised points of V8 but the final implementation of this feature is currently more than disappointing. I’ve already ranted about that here in this thread and I’ll return to this point a bit later once I’ll find another spare hour or so to waste with opening the side shell and removing the battery. I also might have spoken too soon in regards of the amount of the screw holding the battery itself in the shell (11 as per my previous count) as I’ve gave up halfway through removing those with battery being still attached and have realized only later on that some of the screws I’ve included in the count might be actually holding the batter casing itself together rather than fixing the whole battery pack to the shell so I’ll re-visit this point once I’ll build up enough “courage” to struggle with removing the outer shell again. Nevertheless even if the battery pack is being hold only by 3 or 4 screws its still 3 or 4 too many. Trolley handle: Trolley handle is a bit longer than on KS-16 and its separate from the main shell handle which I personally think is a better option / solution than combined handle as on KS-16. Fully extended the top of the handle is 89 cm above ground while KS-16 is only 83 cm. It’s a little bit wobbly and placed asymmetrically outside of the centre of the gravity / wheel unlike on KS-16 (but much better than for example MSuper V3). Unlike sturdiest KS-16 handle due it’s placement in parallel with the wheel rather than diagonally it’s suitable for both right and left-handed use though if you’ll push it with left hand with handle towards you it will be in “reverse” with headlight facing back so at dark you’ll lose the “torch” function. Tire / Fenders / Mudflap: The tire has been “upgraded” from V5F and pre-production models of V8’s from 1.95” to 2.125” Kenda tire with different (IMO better) thread and feels very comfortable at 3.2 bar. Factory recommended tire pressure is 2.8 bar and wheel arrived with only 2 bar so please check your pressure before riding. One small complain I have though is that tire is almost hitting the the enforced fender edges (“stands”) – there is barely 2 - 3 mm space between the tire and edge of the fender so if the tire picks up some larger pieces of dirt, stones, leaves and so on it makes a bit scary and unpleasant noises and can eventually cause the wheel / tire to get stuck or blocked resulting in faceplant. IM also departed from optional Mudguard mount like on V5F though with a bit of creativity this could be added via DIY. The mudguard is definitely needed as even at dry conditions the tire spits up a lot of dust which then lands on the whole back section of the wheel as well as your trousers and shoes. Head & Tails lights: Strangely enough IM departed from the fabulous Head / Tail / Brake lights set present at V5F models to only head light and tail “logo” without any break light implementation. As why this happened we can only speculate – maybe the tail / brake lights were clashing with the side Atmosphere LED lights – who knows. Either way for those of us who want or are required by law to have both lights or even have them on all the time it’s a bit of let-down. The tail logo can’t be under any circumstances considered as a tail light so you’d either need to fit a separate light or can try to use the Atmosphere side lights. I’ve manged to make the design which emulates front white and red tail light using the LEDs and it’s fairly visible even when looking at the wheel directly from the rear or front but indeed it’s not as bright during daylight. The headlight can be easily switched on or off either by long press of the power button while the wheel is turned on or via main as well as notification bar app. Unfortunately the last state is not saved and always default to off after powering the wheel but on other hand it’s much easier (and quieter) to switch it on than on KS-16. One quick tap on power button to switch on the wheel followed by long press to switch on the lights and you’re ready to glide under a second and half. No more hassle of fiddling with multiply button presses like on KS-16 and waking up half of your neighbourhood with loud “Hello Kingsong” shouts”. Luckily you can adjust sound volume on V8 via mobile app as well as replace each sound with your own (even “silence”). I'm yet to test the brightness of the light in the dark but it doesn't seem much stronger than KS-16 and it has vey short throw very close to the wheel so it's not really designed / useful for night riding at unlit areas without additional light mounted on the wheel. Atmosphere / Side LED lights: Atmosphere / Side LED lights are chapter on its own. Despite opposing this feature heavily when the V8 was first announced I’ve actually found it to be most fun. I’ve spent whole first night designing different patterns and staring mesmerised at the blinking wheel. I’ll prepare bigger write-up just about this feature alone in a day or two (hopefully as the weather is getting worse day by day so this will be only fun I’d most likely have with V8 anyway). Until then one word of warning – do not upload to many DIY designs to the wheel as it seems it has limited amount of memory to store the designs and currently it’s unclear how to remove those afterwards or reset the wheel! Additional features / functions: Unlike KS-16 the V8 doesn’t include Bluetooth speaker(s). The tail speaker is for the audible warnings only and it’s pretty loud even at default 50% of volume. It though doesn’t seem to be waterproofed as you can see the speaker membrane through the holes in the shell. Maybe some waterproof folia could be added to address this? Also the speaker volume is the same independent of the state or speed of the wheel. It would be a great QOL improvement if the wheel / app would have at least two volume setting – one for stationary wheel (like at home or in office) and one while moving. Currently I need to change the volume settings at least 4 times a day to not startle anyone at home or office while connecting to wheel but to be able at the same time to hear the warning while driving. Having an option of the dynamic volume increase based on speed would be even better. For each audible warning you can use one of the predefined or extra downloaded sounds and spoken voices, use your own audio files or record new including "silence" if you prefer to "mute" the specific warning. There is no USB or any other charging port available and it seems that reverse protection is present on the main charging port as well so that one can’t be used to provide external power either. Also there is no reset button like on V5F despite the same rubber cover being used for DC charging port. Power button: Power button function is the same as on V5F though it has been changed from touch button to actual physical short press momentarily switch under the rubber cover. The short press on the button turns the wheel on / off, long press turns on / off the headlight and long press while holding the motor cut-off button under the handle will turn off / on the side LED Atmosphere lights. While this seems to be a standard with IM wheels it seems a bit “illogical” to me as I’d say the more dangerous / important function of turning the whole wheel on / off should have been via long press (as on many other wheels including KS-16) and lights using the short tap only. While the current setup makes switching the wheel on / off really quick – almost instant comparing to other wheels – it feels also a bit unsafe as it’s much easier to switch the wheel on or off by accident by quickly brushing against the power button. It actually happened twice to me in past two day that I’ve unintentionally switched the wheel off while grabbing it during stepping off. Surely it’s less dangerous accidentally to turn off or on light than the whole wheel? Maybe IM could include this as a configurable option in the future FW update. Included accessories and documentation: In the box is included apart of the wheel itself (or a couple of bricks if you’re unlucky ) charger packaged in the separate cardboard box, AC cable, ankle pads, user manual (in acceptable English) and warranty card (in my case for some strange reason with cover in English but rest in Spanish). Wheel is shipped double-boxed. No training belt or training wheels are included. Charger port & Charger: Charger is standard “slow” 84C / 1.5A charger same as with V5F but unfortunately IM has departed again at last minute from their unique branded USB-like yellow rectangular DC charging socket and plug (apparently due to the issues during certification process) and made last moment change to “howerboard” like 3 pin charging socket and plug instead (looks like miniature version of GX-16 sockets and plugs used by most of the current EUCs). Apart of making the V8 chargers incompatible with any other current IM product including V5F it’s now a bit hassle to insert the DC plug into the charging socket as you need to rotate it around to find the correct orientation (and it really doesn’t help the moulded “handle” on the plug is not aligned with the wheel in any way when plug is inserted) and you also need to use both hands to remove the plug from the socket. Also it makes it difficult to use alternative / faster charger or for example Charge Doctor. I’ve already ordered several plugs and sockets and I’m awaiting the delivery as I currently feel a bit “blind” not being able to see how much power is exactly being pushed into the battery pack or not being able to use fast charge or early charge cut-off. Indeed the same issue would be present if the original IM DC plug has been used. Finishing / Quality of assembly (Stickers): As mentioned earlier the design, quality and built is superior to almost any other wheel currently on market though a little bit more attention might have been paid during the assembly process. In my case for example both the product sticker (in the gap on the side shell cover opposite the trolley handle) as well as the serial number sticker were “slapped” on the wheel without too much attention so the first one has bubbles which can’t be chased off and the second is a bit diagonally instead of parallel with the edge of the wheel plus its white sticker on the otherwise entirely black wheel. Both drive my OCD crazy … Surely it’s not that much to ask to spare extra 2 seconds and place both sticker on properly? Maybe use black sticker for the black wheel or at least hide the white sticker at some less exposed place like inside of the trolley handle gap? On another wheel freshly unpacked from the box there were a visible scratches at the motor casing near to the valve clearly caused by careless employee filling up the tire with the air. Side “cushions”: Side “cushions” (unlike on V5F) are only bulges in the side translucent smoked plastic covers without any soft or adhesive surface. The top edges are curved inwards so you’ll not experience any pain touching those with your legs / calves. IM supplies ankle pads (like on V5F) which some users applied to those top bulges but they don’t look so good there as they’re not design to be attached to such curved area. Overall: I’m happy with V8 despite several minor shortcomings here and there of which none has impact on the ride quality or safety (maybe apart of the fender edges being too close to tire) and most of them could be resolved on existing model by firmware and app update only. The most critical "issue" in regards of swappable battery would require shell redesign though if done properly (if at all) moving the innards of current wheel into the new shell should be possible if this particular point would be major issue for any of the current V8 owners I’m still novice at this wheel and need some more time to become more comfortable riding it without concentrating too much on the wheel movement. It took me over month to get comfortable on KS-16 so I’m not worried about such feelings only one week after starting with the wheel. At the time of posting I've been riding the V8 daily (weather and slow / long charging permitting) for past 7 days since it has arrived last Thursday from @Jason McNeil and have 180 Km under my heels so far ... If I’ve missed out any points you’ve wondered about please ask in the discussion below.
  17. 22 points
    Hello everybody, glad to write here. I don't know if there is a place for presentation. So i do it here. I'm Hirsute, a circus artist from France and i do freestyle on wheel from exactly one year (i practice a lot...). Here is what i like to do on wheel: (Maybe some of you have already seen this, but for the others....) For those who want to see more video, check my facebook: https://www.facebook.com/wheelhirsute/ I began on july 2015 on a mcm2s, then i have bought a KS14C, a Msuper for off-road, and now a V5+. (Sorry for my english, i don't know if it's correct but i do my best...)
  18. 21 points
    As there have been numerous questions about where to buy electric unicycles in country X, or which shops sell some specific brand/model, I've tried to compile a list of resellers and such to help you. It's by no means anywhere near complete, as there probably are a large number of resellers/agents/manufactures/etc who are hard to find by search engines alone, or don't have their own websites, but at least it should give you a few options where to look for. The original list was painstakingly compiled by me, using nothing but what I found here in the forums, and search engines and translation tools, and probably I can't even find most non-english sites, as I don't know the correct search words or understand the language... Hopefully you, other people and the resellers themselves will chime in to make the list more complete over time. Disclaimer While it should be common sense, let's go over a few things: This list is not a complete set of all the manufacturers/resellers/agents/etc. worldwide, and can contain errors, omissions, out-of-date information etc. While I try to avoid any errors or misinterpretations, I do not guarantee that the information here is correct in any way or at any time. I am not affiliated with or compensated by any reseller, EUC manufacturer or such in the list, nor compensated by electricunicycle.org for any volunteer work I do here as a moderator. I take absolutely no responsibility of any errors or omissions in the list or other information in this thread, or anything that may follow from viewing, using or misusing the list or this thread, visiting the sites or contacting the entities mentioned in this list, including but not limited to: any problems with the resellers, warranty issues, shipping problems or scams; loss of money, profit, time, life, limbs or organs, virginity, faith or any other damage, liability or loss you may suffer or unwanted side-effect or end result when engaging directly or indirectly in any way with any reseller, agent, manufacturer or other entity mentioned in the list. You do so at your own responsibility. While I at the minimum try to check that the site at least looks legit, I give you no guarantees of anything, as I have nothing to do with these resellers/web-sites/entities other than listing them (well, I might buy a wheel or some accessories from some of them, but it doesn't affect this listing). Basically, if something goes wrong, don't come crying to me. The list is here to maybe help you find a suitable place to get an EUC, but as it is probably never complete or up-to-date, there may or may not be more suitable options in your case elsewhere. Use the search engines, Luke. I reserve the right to remove any single entity mentioned in the list and not re-add them in case there's strong evidence that points that the reseller/entity is not legit, is dealing with illegal items or is a fraud, or for any other reason I see as a reason for removing the said entity from this list, and reserve the right to change this disclaimer and any contents of this post/thread at any time without warning. While I have expressed my opinions on some manufacturers, wheel models and such in other topics, and reserve the right to do so also in the future outside this listing/thread, I DO NOT endorse, advocate, give better or poorer visibility to, or otherwise recommend or shun any single reseller or brand over another within this listing or thread, whether I've used certain brand/model or not, or whether I've bought something from a listed reseller or not, or recommend ordering anything either from abroad or domestically or otherwise, nor breaking any international or local laws regarding importing wheels or related parts or accessories, using the wheels or in any other way. The choice is entirely yours. To put it simply, I hope this list and other information in this post is correct and useful to you, but on the other hand won't take any responsibility about anything Phew, I hope I made myself clear. Is your shop or a shop you know missing from the list, or contains wrong information? Are you reseller whose information is missing/wrong in the list? Please post to this thread, and I'll add/fix it to the list as soon as possible. Please give a link to the shops' front page or a section which shows the wheels (URL), mention the country or countries (and city or cities, especially if you have physical shop or are able to showcase the wheels in person) where the shop is located/shipping from and the brand(s) being sold. Do not advertise your shop/wheels with extraneous comments like "We have the best wheels/offers/accessories" or "Our wheel is the best and latest technology", stick to the needed information only and create a separate topic under Advertisements & Promotions for your wheel/shop/whatever, if you want to. Only resellers who sell directly to individuals (eg. private persons) one piece at a time are accepted. No whole/bulk-sales only, although it is ok if you sell both in bulk and one piece at a time. Ordering from Ebay / Amazon / Banggood / DXGate / Alibaba / other large e-commerce site (or whatever they're called) You can probably find lots of bigger and smaller resellers and manufacturers and (pretty much) any brand selling through these sites. I do not list such links here, visit the site and do your own searches to find what you're looking for. Ordering directly from manufacturer At least most manufacturers seem to sell also directly to consumers, so you can (usually) order directly from them. I have not included the contact information of the manufacturers here, but you can probably find it in their webpages, if you have a specific brand in mind and want to be sure to get the latest model. However, I have added direct manufacturer representatives who are registered in these forums, you can (probably) contact them directly with a private message to ask about the wheels/make an order. Ordering abroad vs. domestically Basically, the difference between buying from a domestic reseller or abroad is that you may need to pay additional customs duties and/or taxes when ordering abroad, depending where you are and where you are ordering from, and on the other hand, pay (maybe) more when ordering from a domestic reseller (as they've already paid the customs duties importing the wheels, and add taxes + margin on the price), but (probably) get faster turnaround and less shipping costs and such for any maintenance or warranty issues. Or not, this may vary from reseller to reseller and country to country. Compare the prices, costs and services yourself. To get more information about any taxes, customs duties or such when ordering abroad, check your local government, customs or such web pages for details and rates (and possible import limitations, if such exist anywhere for EUCs?). Warranty shipping especially overseas may also be costly, should such need arise, and if you have to pay for it yourself. Some manufacturers/resellers apparently have just sent the spare parts directly, without needing to ship the entire wheel or even parts back for warranty. Some may require the parts or the entire wheel to be shipped back. There may be costs to you or not, and they may vary a lot. I don't know, ask them what their policy is. There's also probably variation in warranties, defect liabilities, consumer protection etc. between countries, and those may or may not depend on where you have ordered the item and where you live. I suggest you find out such things before ordering. When ordering from anywhere, please note also that any transaction- and shipping-costs and such may or may not be included in the price. Locations the shops ship from Although a shop/site/whatever may be listed under country X/city Y (I've usually only extracted the location information from the "contact"-information or "about us"-section in the sites, if such is available and tells their location), it is possible that they only have an office or such in said country/city, and ship through a warehouse or other location in a different city/country. I leave it up to you to find out any issues this might affect (warranty, shipping, import duties, taxes...) before making any orders. If unsure about anything, contact the reseller/manufacturer/local goverment/customs/whatever seems suitable in the case directly and ask them. If you have any suspicions about any entity, the simplest solution is to not order from them. Manufacturer representatives and homepages Format: Manufacturer: username(s), homepage (if any/known) Airwheel: @Love Cherish @Arnold Li http://www.airwheel.net/ Caraok: @Janny, @Janny Wang Eyu: http://en.eyu.co/ F-Wheel: @Jesse Jin http://www.fwheel.cc/ Firewheel: - http://en.fire-wheel.com/index.html Gotway: @Jane Mo @Linneaunicycles http://www.kebye.com Huanxi: @Huanxi electric unicycle http://www.hx1000.com/en/ InMotion: @Bobwheel https://www.myinmotion.com/ IPS: - http://en.iamips.com/ @王月月 PinWheel: @PinWheel Joyce Rockwheel: @Barry Chen http://rockwheel.cn/ Suokuwheel: @suokuwheel http://www.suokuwheel.com/ King Song: tinawong has left KS? @Diana-Tan @Diana@szkingsong.com http://www.szkingsong.com/en/index.php Resellers in the forums This is an alphabetical list of resellers and and manufacturer representatives here in the forums (I'm not 100% sure of them all, please post and correct any wrong info). You can (probably) contact these people directly with questions/orders, but I'm not sure if some of them frequent the boards so much, so MIGHT have better luck with contacting the manufacturer/reseller via their pages or contact info found from there. FORMAT: USERNAME IN FORUMS (COUNTRY, shop) BRANDS Alwin Wong (Malaysia, Malaysia Airwheel, Malaysia Gotway) Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, King Song, others @bbking (Spain, Airwheelshop) Airwheel @Thewheeldeal (Australia, The Wheel Deal) Gotway OneWheel, Wind Rider, Chic @Gray Goodbarn (United Kingdom, Yorkshire Airwheels Ltd) Airwheel, Gotway @Jason McNeil (United Kingdom, WheelGo, USA, ewheels.com) IPS, Ninebot, InMotion, King Song, Gotway @johnc415 (USA) Gotway, IPS, Huanxi @Justina (Poland, electricunicycles.eu) IPS, King Song, InMotion, Solowheel @Kevin Lee (China/Hong Kong, independent) Gotway, King Song (others?) @Kok Fook Cheang (Malaysia, Asia e-Bike/Wind Rider manufacturer) Wind Rider, Rockwheel, IPS @Kyle Crilow (USA, How We Roll Wheels) Ninebot @mengke (Australia, WheelYouRide) Ninebot @Neale Gray (Australia, Milbay) Milbay @NevNutz (USA, Northern California, Tec Toyz) Gotway @Reagan Goh (Singapore, Ninebot.asia) Ninebot @Tim Haden (USA, HoodRiderz) Ninebot @Trey Lewis (USA, OneSeven) Gotway, IPS @vladmarks (United Kingdom, Project42) Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, Kingsong, Acton, Minimula @Wheelster (Canada, Wheelster) Airwheel, Firewheel, Solowheel, Ninebot, HX, IPS, Kaabo, SML, EHO, Cofly, generics Country list This is an alphabetical list by country with resellers who are located/ship from that country and which brand(s) they sell (at the time of adding to the list, as always, the information may not be up to date). Note that while city may be listed, the reseller may not have a physical shop there or their unicycles might be available for online-orders only and/or they might ship from a different country or city than stated. At least most sites/shops/resellers/distributors/callthemwhatyouwill probably ship to anywhere in the world, the per-country listing is to help people who want to order domestically or find out about possible physical shops near by to visit. Format: Reseller shop name, City name (if known): URL to shop Brands UNKNOWN/MULTIPLE COUNTRIES: EUniBikes.com, Denmark countrycode in phone number? http://www.eunibikes.com/shop/ TG, IPS FiresCycle, China countrycode? http://www.firescycle.com/ KMx, looks like rebrand for Firewheel F132/F260/F528 + some other two-wheeled? LightInTheBox, ? http://www.lightinthebox.com/ IPS, AirWheel, others... ROVR, ?: http://www.rovr.club/product/mobbo-electric-unicycle/ OneWheel, Ryno, Solowheel, SBU The Tech Life Store, ? http://www.thetechlifestore.com/product-category/smart-toys/outdoor-fun/ TG Wheelive: USA / China https://wheelive.com/ Fastwheel, WEERDA, Inmotion, Ninebot Airwheels, European Union/Slovenia: www.airwheels.pro Airwheel Australia: Milbay, Miami/Queensland: http://www.milbay.com.au/ Milbay (which is a rebranded King Song, AFAIK), Esway Tesla Wheels, ?: https://www.tesla-wheels.com/product/solowheel/ Solowheel The Wheel Deal, ? : https://www.thewheeldeal.net.au/ Gotway, King Song, IPS, Onewheel, Wind Rider, Chic Wheel you ride, Victoria: http://wheelyouride.webs.com/ Ninebot Austria CityWheel, Vienna: https://www.city-wheel.at/ AirWheel, Ninebot Funshop, Vienna: http://www.funshop.at/ Firewheel, Gotway, Ninebot, Solowheel, Airwheel, Inmotion, Monowheel, King Song Ninebot Austria, multiple distributors: http://www.ninebot.trade/index.php/home_ninebot_de_at.html Ninebot Ninebot-shop.at, Hohenems: https://www.ninebot-shop.at/ Ninebot Rentals: Mirtl-Motion, Vienna: http://www.mirtl-motion.at/ Ninebot (guided Vienna Tours & rentals, Ninebot Segways & Ninebot One) Belgium Cityzen, Brussels: http://www.cityzen.be/ Fastwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, F-wheel, Solowheel, King Song MonoWiel, Gistel: http://www.monowiel.be/ IO, MonoWiel (rebranded IPS?), Ninebot, InMotion, IPS, King Song Monowheels, Dilbeek: http://monowheels.be/ Gotway, Huanxi Brazil Ninebot Brazil, São Paulo: http://www.9botbrasil.com.br/ Ninebot Canada AirwheelUnicycle.com, Toronto: http://airwheelunicycle.com/Information/airwheel-models AirWheel Bestbuy, numerous locations: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/category/electric-unicycles/504392.aspx Sologear eRide-Toronto, Toronto: http://www.ewheelscanada.com Gotway, InMotion, King Song, Ninebot Gotway Canada, Ontario: https://gotwaycanada.com/ Gotway NineBotOne, Vancouver, BC http://www.ninebotone.ca/ Ninebot Ride the glide, Victoria: http://www.ridetheglide.ca/ Ninebot, Gotway Vancouver Electric Unicycles, Vancouver: http://www.vaneuc.com/webstore/en/ InMotion, Gotway, (King Song coming later) Wheelster, Quebec/Toronto/Montreal: http://wheelster.com/ Airwheel, Firewheel, Solowheel, Ninebot, HX, IPS, Kaabo, SML, EHO, Cofly, generics China Airebike, Jiang Su/Hong Kong: http://www.airebike.com/ Airwheel Air-Wheels, Hong Kong: http://en.air-wheels.com/22-electric-unicycle Airwheel, F-Wheel, Chic Smart Alloko, Shenzhen: http://www.alloko.com/all-products/ Airwheel Cocotool, Beijing: http://www.cocotool.com/portfolio/coolgo-most-popular-self-balance-electric-unicycle-x3/ CoolGo FazendoMedia, Beijing: http://balancingscooter.buy.fazendomedia.com/c1342681-gyroscopic-electric-unicycle Generics? Fosjoas, Shenzhen: http://www.fosjoas.com/Home/index Rebrands/generics? Geekbuying, Shenzhen: http://www.geekbuying.com/category/Bicycle-Supplies-1265 TG Holuby, Shenzhen: https://www.holuby.com/type/scooters.html Generics LifeJoys, Shenzhen: http://www.lifejoys.net/ FL (F-Wheel?) Ninebot Mall, Shenzhen: http://www.ninebotmall.com/ Ninebot Segwaybox, Shenyang: http://segwaybox.com/ AX37I (looks like Ninebot?) Smartride, Shenzhen: http://www.srwindow.cn/ Ninebot, InMotion, Yikebike, Solowheel Zapals, Shenzhen: http://www.zapals.com/outdoor-living/scooter-skateboard/electric-unicycle.html Generics? Croatia Airwheels, ?: www.airwheels.com.hr Airwheel Czech Republic Gotway.cz, Prague(?) : http://gotway.cz/ Gotway, Ninebot, Firewheel, IPS, Airwheel Denmark Air-Wheel.dk , Odense: http://air-wheel.dk/ Fly Sky Wheel Airwheel Denmark, ?: http://www.airwheels.dk/ Airwheel Coolstuff, Malmö: http://www.coolstuff.dk/ Solowheel, Airwheel Freego Nordic, Vejle: http://www.freegonordic.dk/ Freego, Okay Robot, Inmotion MyWheel, København (Copenhagen): http://mywheel.dk/29-el-uniwheel Airwheel, Firewheel, MyWheel Uniriders, Copenhagen(?): http://www.uniriders.com King Song Estonia Firstwheel, Tallinn: http://firstwheel.com/ Firstwheel, Airwheel, Ninebot, InMotion Finland CDON.com, Maarianhamina: http://cdon.fi/ Airwheel CoolStuff, Helsinki: http://www.coolstuff.fi Airwheel, Solowheel DG-Products, Espoo: http://kevytilmailu.com/index.php?id=10&ala=62 Airwheel, Ninebot, InMotion, King Song eCycle, Helsinki/Järvenpää: http://www.ecycle.fi/kauppa/ Gotway, InMotion E1on.com, Mikkeli: https://www.e1on.com/fi/tuoteryhma/727288 King Song Joyride Games, Forssa: http://www.joyride.fi/ JoyrideWheel (Looks like it's rebranded F-Wheel Dolphin One) Ollu.fi, Lohja: http://www.ollu.fi/ Generics, Huanxi Teknik Magasinet, Espoo/Helsinki/Lempäälä/Turku/Vantaa/Jyväskylä: http://www.teknikmagasinet.fi/tuotevalikoima/urheilu-ja-vapaa-aika/sahkokayttoiset-kulkuneuvot IPS, MonoWheel (rebrand of IPS?), ORB Wheel Verkkokauppa.com, Helsinki/Tampere/Oulu : http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/catalog/10864c/Pyoraily-Kevyet-sahkokulkuneuvot Airwheel, GoZero France Airwheel Boutique, Monistrol sur Loire: http://www.airwheelboutique.fr/ Airwheel Airwheel France, Paris: http://www.airwheel-france.com/index.php Airwheel AlterMove, Lille / Lyon: http://www.altermove.com/vehicule/solowheel.html Beepre, Rool'in, Solowheel Decathlon, 260 stores in France: http://www.decathlon.fr/solowheel-electrique-id_8303597.html Solowheel E-Bicycle, Paris: http://www.e-bicycle.fr/gyropode.php eWheel Fastwheel, Paris: http://www.fastwheel.fr/site/fastwheel/ Fastwheel Fastwheel France, ?: http://monocycle-electrique-fastwheel.fr/index.php/magasin-monocycles-electriques/ Fastwheel Firewheel France, Toulouse https://fire-wheel.eu/en/ Firewheel, Gotway, IPS, Airwheel Funnybike / E Roue, Paris: http://funnybike.fr/ Gotway, F-Wheel, Pukka, Solowheel, Ninebot Gyromax, Rebenacq: http://gyromax.fr/36-roues-electriques Inmotion, Ninebot Gyroroue-shop, Paris: http://gyroroue-shop.fr/ King Song, Rockwheel, Inmotion, Ninebot, and GotWay High'Tems, Beauvais: http://hightems.eu/17-monocycles Ninebot, King Song IPS Boutique, ?: http://www.ipsboutique.fr/ IPS MobilityUrban, : http://www.mobilityurban.fr/gyropode/ Smart Chic, NeWheel, FastWheel, Airwheel, Rockwheel, Legway, Firewheel Ninebot France, Paris: http://www.ninebot-france.com/acheter-louer/boutique/ Ninebot Ninebot France, ?: http://www.ninebotfrance.fr/ Ninebot Norauto, Marseilles/Lyon/Toulouse: http://www.norauto.fr/produit/solowheel-electrique-blanc-1500w_882133.html Solowheel Onebot, Nantes: http://www.onebot.fr/home/9-ninebot-one.html Ninebot Quad-Custom.fr, Noailles: http://www.quad-custom.fr/54-mono-roue-electrique-et-mini-gyropode Pamolod TeamScoot, Monistrol-sur-Loire: http://www.scooter-electrique-urbain.fr/13-monoroue-monocycle Freego, Ninebot, Pukka, Fastwheel, IPS, Airwheel, Rockwheel, Firewheel, Legway, generics... UP & GO, Saint-Étienne: http://www.up-andgo.fr/#!monocycle/c1yc2 UP & GO VIC Electricity, Bobigny: http://vic-electricity.fr/indexsous.html FosJoas Wheelyon, Lyon: http://wheelyon.fr/ Ninebot Germany 1RadWerkstatt, ?: http://www.1radwerkstatt.de/ King Song Electro-Sport, Eichwalde: http://www.electro-sport.de/ Gotway, Firewheel, Ninebot, IPS, Airwheel Free-Wheel, Bonn: http://www.free-wheel.de Ninebot, Airwheel Monowheel-kaufen.com, Glashütten: http://monowheel-kaufen.com Monowheel Monowheel-kaufen.de, ?: http://monowheel-kaufen.de/ Ninebot, Airwheel, Monowheel, generics Ninebot-kaufen, Glashütten: http://www.ninebot-kaufen.com/ Ninebot Ninebot Germany, ?: http://www.ninebot.de/ Ninebot Project42, ?: https://project42.de/6-elektronische-rader Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, King Song Pulox, Cologne: http://www.pulox.de/MonoRover-Elektro-Einrad Mono Rover Scooterhelden, Berlin: http://scooterhelden.de/online-shop Airwheel, Firewheel, GotWay, Inmotion, Monowheel, Ninebot India SuperScooter, Noida: http://superscooter.in/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52 Generic Indonesia Gwendita Shop, Jakarta: http://gwendita.com/98-home-appliance Uniwheel Ireland Project42, (United Kingdom/London) : https://project42.ie/ Airwheel, Firstwheel, Ninebot, InMotion, Uniwheel, King Song Italy Eruota, Padua: http://www.eruota.com/ Gotway, Inmotion Luxembourg Electricity, Luxembourg: http://www.electricity.lu/index.php/fr/catalogue/mono-roues Ninebot Malaysia Asia E-bike, ?: https://www.facebook.com/asiaebike International sells: http://www.asiaebike.com/#!shop--cart/c3al Wind Rider, RockWheel, IPS Airwheel Malaysia, Multiple dealers?: http://airwheelmalaysia.com/ Airwheel Malaysia Airwheel, Shah Alam: http://malaysiaairwheel.com/ Airwheel Malta Techpoint, Birkirkara & Fgura: http://www.myips.eu/ IPS, lease available Netherlands DeVi motion, Obdam: http://www.devi-motion.com/webshop/electric-vehicle/p-1/D1000618--gyroscope-self-balancing-unicycle-(white).html GM-Wheel E-WheelShop, (Belgium/Gistel, affiliate of monowiel.be) http://www.e-wheelshop.nl/en/electric-unicycles/ Ninebot, IPS, InMotion Future Wheels, ?: http://www.futurewheels.eu/ King Song -rebrands: KS-14B 174Wh swappable battery (FutureWheel Noir/Scarlet), KS-14C 800W 680Wh (FutureWheel Force) Monowheels, Dilbeek (Belgium): http://monowheels.be/ Gotway, Huanxi New Zealand Impaq, Auckland : http://www.ipsunicycle.co.nz/where-to-buy/ IPS Norway CoolStuff, Oslo: http://www.coolstuff.no/ Airwheel, Solowheel Teknik Magasinet, (12 cities, check their site): http://www.teknikmagasinet.no/nyheter/sport-fritid IPS, ORB Wheel Ghetto wheels, Oslo: http://ghettowheels.no/ NinebotNinebot.no, Grålum: http://ninebot.no/ NinebotAirwheel Norge, Drammen: http://airwheel.no/ AirwheelTopseller Norway, Stabekk: http://topseller.no/ Ninebot, Hyperoll, Osdrich, SkywalkerCdon.com, ?: http://cdon.no/ Airwheel Poland Electric Transport Group, Świerklaniec, : https://www.electricunicycles.eu InMotion, IPS, King Song, Solowheel eUnicycles / emonocycle, Wroclaw http://eunicycles.eu King Song Puerto Rico: Airwheel Puerto Rico, Guaynabo: http://www.airwheelpr.com/ Airwheel Singapore Airwheel Singapore: http://airwheelsg.com/ Airwheel ESports: http://esports.com.sg/products/electric-unicycle.html Airwheel, IPS Falcon PEV: http://www.falconpev.com.sg/product-category/electric-unicycles-shop/ Ninebot, Wheelies Ninebot.asia: http://ninebot.asia Ninebot Passion Gadgets: http://www.passiongadgets.com/airwheel-unicycle/aiwheel-ips/ Kaabo, Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, F-Wheel, The Wheelies: http://thewheelies.sg/ Airwheel, Gotway, IPS, Ninebot Slovenia Airwheels, Maribor: www.airwheels.si Airwheel South Africa OddWheel, ?: http://oddwheel.co.za/product-category/unicycles/electric-unicycles/ Airwheel Spain Airwheelshop.es, unknown: http://airwheelshop.es/ Airwheel Air Wheel Shop, Campanillas (Malaga): http://www.air-wheel-shop.com/3-1-roue Airwheel, iGo, Hotard MediaMarkt, 76 stores, check site: http://tiendas.mediamarkt.es/ciclos-electricos Ninebot, Run&Roll MoCycl, Barcelona: http://www.mocycl.com/shop/ Mocycl Tienda Ninebot, Bilbao: https://www.tiendaninebot.com/ Ninebot Sweden CoolStuff, Malmö: http://www.coolstuff.se/ Airwheel, Solowheel Flash Store, Hestra: http://kingsong.ulcraft.com/ King Song Green Ride Store, Uppsala: http://www.greenridestore.com/ Gotway, Orb3t, Sbot (Ninebot/King Song/IPS to be added later?) Gyroway, ?: http://www.gyroway.se/ Gyroway, InMotion, Ninebot Teknik Magasinet, (Almost 40 cities, check their site): http://www.teknikmagasinet.se/produkter/sport-o-fritid/eldrivna-fordon IPS, MonoWheel (rebrand of IPS?), ORB Wheel Switzerland Cycletec, Küsnacht: http://www.cycletec.ch/velos-und-e-bikes/solowheel-einrad Ninebot, Solowheel E-Ride, Zurich/Horgen, Bern, Geneva: http://www.e-ride.ch/en/ Firstwheel, Ninebot, Airwheel Einrad Shop, ?: https://www.einradshop.ch/einrad-shop/de/87-e-einrad IPS Kite-Shop.ch, Goldau: http://www.kite-shop.ch/de/evo-skates-elektro-kickboard-trotti/e-balance-scooter IPS LED Workshop, Thörigen: http://ledwerkstatt.ch/produkt/stehroller-ninebot-one-e/ Ninebot Mein Solowheel, Schwerzenbach?: http://meinsolowheel.ch/ Solowheel My-Wheel, Frenkendorf: http://www.my-wheel.ch/ Ninebot, IPS Rollster, Oberkulm: http://rollster.ch/ninebot-one Ninebot SBUV3, Unterwasser: http://www.sbuv3.ch/index.php/de/ Solowheel, Hovertrax, SBUV3 Stay Mobile, multiple dealers/cities: http://www.stay-mobile.ch/dealers.html Ninebot Superwheel, Winterthur: http://www.superwheels.ch/ Superwheel The Airwheel, E-Ride affiliate?: http://theairwheel.ch/ Ninebot, Fastwheel, F-wheel WheelzWorld, Carouge: http://www.wheelzworld.com/welcome.php Gotway United Kingdom Airwheel UK, London: http://www.theairwheel.com/shop/ Airwheel Personal Electric Transport, London: https://personalelectrictransport.co.uk Acton, Ninebot, Inmotion, E-Twow, Egret, Citybug, PET, Gotway, IPS Poolmarket Bristol: https://www.poolmarket.co.uk/ - Ninebot, Minimula, Xiaomi Project42, London: https://proj42.co.uk/ Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, Kingsong, Acton, Minimula Speedy Feet, Gloucestershire: http://www.speedyfeet.uk Ninebot, Gotway Tokatron, London: http://tokatron.com/ Rebrands (looks like Gotway, Huanxi, Macwheel (which is a low-powered Firewheel-copy)) WheelGo, London: http://www.wheelgo.com/ IPS, Inmotion Yorkshire Airwheels, Harrogate: http://yorkshireairwheels.co.uk/ Airwheel, Gotway United States Airwheel USA, (unknown): https://theairwheelusa.com/ Airwheel Dragonize, ? (Is this even in USA? :D): http://dragonize.org/index.php/my-shop/category/64-scooters TG ElectricUnicycleReviews.com Store, ?: http://www.electricunicyclereviews.com/s/ Huanxi (HX), Suoku, King Song, Ninebot EUniProShop, Seattle VA: http://www.euniproshop.com/ Super Wheel eWheel, New York NY(?): http://www.ewheel.net/ AirWheel, eWheel. Freeman, Ninebot, Rockwheel, Firewheel eWheels.com, Miami, FL: ewheels.com InMotion, King Song, Gotway Forward California, Santa Rosa, CA: http://www.forwardca.com/collections Ninebot Future Unicycle, Buffalo WY: http://futureunicycle.com/ Solowheel, IPS, King Song, InMotion, Ninebot Hoodriderz, New York NY: http://www.hoodriderz.com/?referral=eucf Ninebot How We Roll Wheels, Jacksonville Beach FL: http://www.howwerollwheels.com Ninebot InMotion USA, ??? : https://www.myinmotion.com/ InMotion/Solowheel Juiced Wheels, St. Louis MO: https://www.juicedwheels.biz/ King Song MenWheel, Blue Bell PA: http://www.menwheel.com/product-category/electric-unicycle/ MenWheel My Fun Wheel, Brentwood CA: www.myfunwheel.com https://squareup.com/store/myfunwheel IPS, Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot On Balance Outdoor, Highland Park IL: http://www.commute-connect.com/electric_unicycles_skateboards.html SBU, Solowheel OneSeven, Siloam Springs, AR: http://www.oneseven.xyz/ Gotway, IPS Raijin Cycles, Tampa, FL: https://raijincycles.com/ Gotway Solowheel Seattle, Seattle WA: http://www.solowheelseattle.com Solowheel Tec Toyz, Santa Clara, CA: http://tec-toyz.com/ Gotway The ebike store, Portland OR: http://www.ebikestore.com/index.php?id_product=160&controller=product&id_lang=1 SBU
  19. 21 points
    I LOVE just about everything about my NineBot One E+, except for the Range It's frustrating to drive 2-3 hours all the way to San Francisco, just to be able to ride the NineBot 10-15 miles before I have to recharge my Battery. This puts the larger battery wheels (GotWay/King Song) in a bind because they either need to leave me behind, or stop and wait for an hour for me to get a charge. So far, they've been really nice and we've eaten, coffee, or whatever, but I know it would be nice to not have to do this. With that in mind, I decided to modify the Battery Door so I could do a Quick Battery Change in the middle of the ride. I'll carry a second one in my backpack, and this will take about 30 seconds, so I don't think I'll have too many people mad at me. I used Neodymium Magnets due to their Strength compared to Size. Easily find these online. First, I needed to pull it apart. I've never done this, and I was worried, but it's surprisingly EASY and fast! I only pulled apart ONE side. The side with the battery. Right Side when riding it. Remove the Foot Pad, Remove the Light Ring, Remove Battery Cover, Remove Trim Plate, Remove Body. <--- See NineBot UK How To Videos: I drilled holes in the Body and in the Battery Cover. I drilled smaller than needed so I had to press in the magnets. I didn't want to rely solely on Glue to hold these in place. Here is the Inside of the Body Facing the Wheel. It shows the glue added. On the Outside Facing your leg, I extended the magnets slightly so it would help to align and hold the Battery Door. When gluing the magnets in place, you need to set the depth of both magnets so that they barely touch the opposite magnets when the door is in place. This takes some fiddling, but is important for a strong hold. Also, get your Polarity correct! Again, on the Battery Door, I've drilled slightly small and set the depth to match the opposite magnets. Due to the strength of the magnets, I added a piece of Gorilla Tape folded over on itself as a Pull Strap to open the door. I also cut the Screw Tabs off the Cover. Put it all back together making sure to get your LED lights plugged in so they rotate the correct way for you. The ONLY parts that should be left over are the two screws and tabs you cut off the cover. Get your second battery and ride twice as far. I will be adding Velcro to Both Batteries to help hold them in place as added protection.
  20. 21 points
    Saw that and ok, heh, i now know that everybody can ride one !
  21. 21 points
    For those interested, here is my comparison of the new 14" Ninebot One S2 [310wH] (Retail $950) vs the new 14" InMotion V5F+ [460wH] (Retail $995) Special thanks to @fearedbliss for letting me try out his new InMotion V5F+ during a good, few hour tour of Brooklyn and Coney Island (my first time in fact!). For reference, I am a 72kg rider with a foot size of US Mens 8.5, and write this comparison as just a regular EUC enthusiast, model and company agnostic. SPEED Out of the box, the V5F+ and S2 should, per spec, have the same ~15.5mph top speed, but I had a hard time catching up to @fearedbliss when I was following on my S2. The S2 is in full tiltback when crossing the 15mph threshold, while the V5F+ tiltback threshold seems to go a little higher. InMotion seems to have plans to increase the V5F+ top speed in later firmware updates, while Ninebot has not stated any plans to increase the S2's top speed in the near future. RANGE Per spec, the V5F+ with slightly bigger battery and better LG cells, should have 50% better range than the S2. While I didn't conduct an exact scientific test between the two, suffice it to say, during our lunch break mid-ride, I had to find the nearest outlet for my S2, while @fearedbliss's V5F+ went the entire few hour trip without a recharge. (for E+ owners, I get the same 12 mile range on my S2 as I did on my old E+ -- as always, rider weight dependent). RESPONSE [S2] Like with all Ninebot Ones, the S2 has a hard response. The pedals maintain a solid, perpendicular shelf during the entire drive, just like I used to experience on my old E+. Unfortunately, with the new Ninebot app, I can't seem to find a way to adjust the hardness like I could with my old E+ and old Ninebot app. [V5F+] The V5F+ has a unique version of a hard response that I quite liked. Initially, inbetween braking and acceleration, there is a slight 'wavy' rock to the pedals. However, when engaging acceleration forward, the pedals will cock up and lock at a slight angle (not as steep as tiltback), staying rock solid and allowing you to really lean into the wheel during acceleration. I am always cautious about not overleaning due to past mishaps (all my faults!), but with the V5F+, I felt like I could be more aggressive in pushing my weight into the wheel for acceleration, more than I can on my other wheels. Maybe this is the kind of response @Jeffrey Scott Will and all the other SoloWheel owners rave about when talking about their SoloWheels? BUMPS [S2] The S2 as a 14" wheel handles bumps and jumps off curbs just fine (with the familiar Ninebot One rattle). Bumps or running into minor divots will set off a single momentary beep that I believe is a current surge overlean warning (which is great!). The same warning is triggered when I try to accelerate too fast from slow speeds too, ie. overlean. [V5F+] The V5F+ going over small bumps and landing off curbs feels like you are riding on a solid mass of immovable rubber. Jumping off curbs will make no rattling noise whatsoever, and driving through small bumps, like a raised sidewalk onramp curb, feels like nothing. PEDALS / HANDLING [S2] Ninebot Ones have always had fairly comfortable pedals, and the S2 is no different. They measure about 7.5" long, 5.25" wide, and sit 4" high from the ground, a bit low for my tastes and carving style. [V5F+] To me, this is one of the areas of the V5F+ that shines. The V5F+ pedals, despite appearances, are one of the longest (8") and highest (5.5") stock pedals I've experienced on a wheel (for additional reference, my KS-18A mk2 pedals are 7" long, 5" wide, 4.5" high). The combination of the less wide (5"), high-sitting pedals allowed me to really angle the wheel close to the ground during turns, without pedal scrape. I got so used to this setup that, going back to the S2, I kept pedal scraping trying to make the same deep turns! COMFORT [S2] The S2 has no padding to speak of, so you must attach your own. I stuck some A/C insulating foam to the shin regions with velcro, which does the job. The pedals, again, are a good size and feel comfortable. [V5F+] The V5F+ sports fairly cushy and thick built-in shin cushions (thicker and cushier than my KS-18A's) that are very comfortable. The relatively long pedals, while sporting less width, were more comfortable than I thought they would be from pictures, no complaints here. WARNINGS / SOUNDS The S2 has many loud beeps that make sense for top speed and overlean warnings, but are a bit obnoxious (same volume) when powering on and lifting the handle. Ninebot really needs to make these non-warning type beeps lower in volume or manually adjustable through the app. In contrast, the sounds of the V5F+, in both tone and volume, are more palatable; the power on/off sound reminds me of old Sega video game sounds!. On another note, both wheels carry no audible motor frequency noise, which is a nice change from the KingSong motor noise (I believe Gotway as well has this). PORTABILITY [S2] Unfortunately, Ninebot has not learned the lessons of it's previous One line, and there is no Ninebot or 3rd party trolley handle solution. While the S2 @ 27lbs is considered a lighter EUC, I would not want to carry the wheel for prolonged periods of time. Hopefully they will develop a suitable option, but something tells me this will be in the form of a poorly designed afterthought, just like the un-wieldy, eyesore of a unicorn trolley handle they sell for the 16" One series. [V5F+] While @fearedbliss hadn't received his V5F+ trolley handle yet, from pictures, it looks well thought out and well integrated into the overall wheel's design, what with it's fold-out, curved shape. It's great that InMotion designed this custom trolley handle and made it available at launch, not assuming all their riders are muscled and ripped enough to carry around the V5F+'s 26.5lbs over prolonged distances / periods of time. HANDLE / WHEEL KILL [S2] The S2 handle is made of a firm rubberized material (spongier than the 16" One Handle), fixed on both ends to the wheel by hidden mechanical, spring-like mechanisms that, when the wheel is lifted by the handle, pulls slightly out of the unit, beeping and engaging the wheel kill function (provided the wheel is not spinning above 5MPH). The overall feel is sturdy, yet comfortable. I do have occasion where, when I lift the wheel, the spring mechanisms do not fully pull out properly at first to initiate the wheel kill, but this is rare and quickly corrects itself under the pull of its own weight while continuing to carry it. [V5F+] The V5F+ handle is a continuous extension of the plastic body/shell, just like the KingSong KS-14C & KS-18A carry handles. A long, thin plastic button runs along most of the underbelly of the handle so that grabbing the handle naturally presses the button against your hand against the weight of the wheel, engaging the wheel kill function. Although the button is long, you could feasibly lift the wheel while not depressing the button, for, say, lift tests, which is nice, because with the S2, you have to dig through a few settings menus in the Ninebot app to turn off the wheel kill feature. ** I have to say, the handle-initiated wheel kill in general is extremely useful for running in and out of shops, and lifting the unit quickly up tall curbs without having to power on/off the unit (thankfully both wheels power on fairly quickly: the V5F+ is a long press of its touch pad power button, while the S2 is a slightly quicker press of its regular mechanical power button). Plus, carrying the powered-on S2 with green LED ring battery level display adds to the eye candy factor! VISIBILITY The V5F+ clearly wins in the visibility department, sporting full blown headlight and tail lights. I like that the front light is manual on/off, as, for comparison, my KS-18A light sensor tends to be finnicky in inbetween daylight and nighttime scenarios, or switching in and out of shade. The S2 only sports the led ring light (with braking light), which is now stock visible from the front and back, but the lights from these angles are not particularly the brightest. BATTERY METER As those have stated, being able to look directly down to see the battery meter on the V5F+ is very convenient, especially mid-ride, as opposed to the S2, which breaks out of the side led battery indicator pattern during motion. WHEEL CLEARANCE Both wheel shells are fully circular and sit fairly flush with the wheel at around 1/2" for both, but I love how the V5F+ has gone a step further to make the bottom edge of the shell fold up (with a firm yank) so you can easily access the tire valve without an extension for inflating. BOTTOM LINE / CLOSING THOUGHTS @Jason McNeil has a real winner in the new InMotion V5F+. It really feels like InMotion took the best of each competitor's wheels, threw in a few extra, well-thought out conveniences, and rolled it into this first foray into the single wheeled EUC market. For all the Ninebot One E+ owners out there looking to upgrade, I would have to put this wheel right next to the KingSong KS-16B as the 2 best overall upgrade paths, with the V5F+ being the more compact and lighter option. The S2, on the other hand, is still a solid wheel (basically a 14" E+), albeit comparatively over-priced (as is the case with Ninebot in general), but not an end-all be-all solution IMO. The only real advantage it has over the V5F+, I would say, is that the batteries (2x 155wH packs) are TSA compliant for travel, and semi-easy to remove. (note: the 4 battery screws have a tendency to get lost through the deep holes of the battery casing if you're not using a magnetic screwdriver). =====UPDATE (7/27/2016)===== (additional observations, now that I have the V5F+ in hand) GRIPTAPE The V5F+ pedals are way grippier than the S2. The S2 griptape is similar to a fingernail file, while the V5F+ has a deeper, more textured grooves, ala heavier duty skateboard griptape. POWERING The power connector looks very USB-esque, but the best part is, it's symmetrical! Meaning, there's no wrong way to plug it in, unlike every other EUC power connector out (LEMO, GX16, etc.). Think all wheels should use this, as I always hate fumbling to quickly plug the chord in (wish I knew the name of this connector type...) Charging the powered off V5F+ will automatically turn on a rolling light display (which I cannot seem to turn off) that shows the progress of charging via the battery indicator. The S2 has a similar display, but you have to turn it on manually. Both wheels when plugged in and in this battery display mode do not engage the gyroscope. *One note about the V5F+ power button is that it is very sensitive. While installing the trolley handle, I repeatedly turned the wheel on unintentionally. TROLLEY HANDLE / PORTABILITY From pictures, I assumed that the V5F+ trolley handle was metal, but in hand, that was not the case. The trolley handle is made up of primarily a sturdy plastic (like a plastic wiffle ball bat) with a rubber grip and feels hollow on the inside. This material choice makes sense to keep the total weight of the unit down. Plastic aside, the trolley handle feels plenty sturdy, and with the curved design, I'm able to easily push the wheel around, even when the wheel is not powered on. However, I wouldn't recommend trying to lift the wheel by the extended trolley handle, as I think that would put unnecessary stress on it. And although both V5F+ with trolley handle installed and the S2 weigh 27 lbs, the V5F+ for some odd reason feels a little lighter when carrying. Not sure why, but might be due to the V5F+ battery residing higher in the unit than the S2 batteries. CALIBRATION I really like the V5F+ calibration vs other systems I've experienced. You basically adjust a slider in the app, which will immediately and incrementally re-level the wheel accordingly, without having to restart/re-power on the wheel. In comparison, the Ninebot and KingSong calibrations require you to have steady hands in manually adjusting the wheel to the right level, and then holding that position while fumbling to lock in that setting in the app with an app button press, or having to press the physical power button on the wheel.
  22. 20 points
  23. 20 points
    Hey Guys, Thought I would share. 3D printed a body for my Fasion Micro Works Motor and Controller. I had to print the parts in smaller segments and hold things together with nuts and bolts but so far it's been working great. I took a couple of spills as well and it didn't do too badly. I've recently changed my design a little bit and am in the process of reprinting. Hopefully soon I'll have the new one together. My newer version is a bit easier to put together and is a little less wide for more comfort when I ride. Hope you all like. I can share the STL files if anyone whats to have a go. You just need to make sure you print everything with the Z axis as the direction of least force. So most every part on it's side. I was also running out of filament so the prototype ended up looking like a Jamaican Flag. Regards, Mo More Pics..
  24. 19 points
    Hello, I can't find the section presentation, sorry. Then I come here, I use Google translation I'm sorry, I don't control any English, I'm already struggling in French, laughing. Anyway, I'm a French Wheeler as @Hirsute. I'm Wheeler since June 2014. My name is Jean (Nhut) I am now a fan of's mode of transport. I like the Street and Freestyle. I also organizes a lot of output of electric mobility. Here's my YouTube channel. I hope you enjoy my videos, enjoy. And if you spend a day in France in the city of Nancy, you will be welcome to our outputs Wheelers. Good evening
  25. 19 points
    Sorry to keep everyone waiting, I had a busy day yesterday. The votes have been tallied and the count has been double-checked by (at least) three moderators, myself included. The final three winners are: 1st: Hirsute2nd: Toby Stevens3rd: SideStreet Reny Congratulations to all the winners and warm thanks to everyone who contributed, either by making contest videos, voting and/or giving feedback on the contest! I take it that @Rehab1 & @Jason McNeil will now take over to manage the transportation/prize money transfers for the winners?