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  1. 37 points
    The story of how I and two fellow wheel riders became lost in the mountains and lived to ride another day. As I begin this, it must be said that I'm the one with poor judgement in this story. Well intentioned, but... The Cogswell Dam, as I've previously written about, is a gorgeous area to ride an EUC. It's basically a canyon ride on the northern side of a mountain ridge. I've ridden it twice before. Throughout this region are countless trails, large and small. One of the most well known is a four wheel drive capable trail called the Rincon Shortcut OHV Trail. It stretches along the southern side of the ridge that is shared with the Cogswell Dam. The Rincon trail-head starts about an 1/8 mile south of the Cogswell Dam trail-head. Up in the mountains there is a connection between the two, and that's what I've been itching to try. Complete the approximately 30 mile loop that joins the two trails. So I coordinated a group ride for Saturday morning, and my long time riding buddy @jrkline was the first to commit to the ride and not too long afterwards @Ando Melkonyan eagerly committed to the adventure (he had his newly acquired ACM). We were to leave by 9:30am, traversing the southern (Rincon) route first, taking advantage of the coolness of the morning air. Eventually we would meet up with the Cogswell Dam trail high up in the mountains and return by way of the shaded northern trail to avoid the extreme heat of the day. Oh, and today was the peak of a mini heat wave in Southern California, where the temperature was predicted to be in the low 90's. Maybe we should have brought more water. Hmmm. @abinder3 joined us at the very beginning. He didn't have time for the entire route (regardless of his reasons that was a good decision in hindsight) and therefore was just going to ride to the dam and back, about a 20 mile roundtrip. But it was nice that we could all meet at the beginning and share a few stories before we went our separate ways. In the picture above, from left to right: @abinder3 (Allen), @Ando Melkonyan, @jrkline (Jeff), and myself. Don't we look happy - if only we knew what was forthcoming I had my Monster which I had previously ridden here twice before. Jeff had the FrankenACM - I know, I know, his world famous 2040wh ACM. As would be demonstrated throughout the day, his ACM never fails. It may not be pretty but it's a faithful workhorse. And Ando brought his 3 week old ACM with a 2-1/2" tire that he managed to fit on the wheel. He had to cut away parts of the shell to make it fit, but he turned it into a really nice trail machine. We finally began our journey and after a few hundred feet wished Allen well as he exited for his trail head. We continued on the two lane highway until we came upon the locked trail gate, representing the entrance to our grand adventure. After bypassing the gate we began our journey in earnest. On a previous outing to Cogswell Dam I had ridden this part of the trail for a mile or so and was hoping the whole trail would be as I remembered. And for the most part it was, perhaps a little steeper in sections. But remember that this is a four wheel drive trail so certainly any path that a truck can take we can tackle easily on our EUCs. In this video you can see me struggling a bit as the ACMs zoom past me After a few miles of steady uphill climbing I was beginning to think that I should have taken my ACM too instead of the Monster. I've ridden my Monster a lot in the mountains now, but never for extended uphill pushes. We were on a trail that was to continuously climb for over 3500 feet. And this wasn't a paved road. It was gravel and sand mixed with large rocks and various ruts. So there was a lot of maneuvering involved, slips, slides, near stalls, and periodic jump-stops for the wheels. Although I have experience with the Monster and know that it's capable of ascending any hill that the ACM is, it does so extremely slowly and with much effort. As Jeff and Ando zoomed up the trail sections with hardly any physical effort, I was in a near constant crouch and heavy lean. Plus all of the effort required to steer the 70 pound Monster ... But I was hanging in there despite the ridicule coming from my fellow riders ;-) Fairly early on we had our first crash. I must say, anybody who wants to keep their wheel pristine should never do off-road trail riding. It's a messy business. My Monster requires a wide berth and although I always have my trusty helmet mirror, I have some rather large blind spots. Jeff was apparently unaware of these facts. As he was overtaking me on my left I was slowing sliding left. Our pedals locked and in the next moment we were both sprawled on the ground. Jeff's bloodied forearm and my bruised ego provided good entertainment for Ando :-) Here's a couple pictures of the aftermath: We continued the long climb, but I was getting tired. At one point Ando offered me his ACM while he pushed forward with the Monster. And then he proceeded to demonstrate a new technique (to me) for getting the Monster up hills fast. Jeff and I had great fun watching this and I think Ando was having fun to. It looked like he was riding a horse, but indeed it really moved fast. When I started riding the Monster again I used this technique and it really helped. But it was still hard on the body because of the lean, and steering was proving difficult. Eventually I discovered that if I was in a squatting position and squeezing the wheel between my knees, AND using my knees to force the wheel forward, the Monster really moved. This was exhausting however. We were still having a good time, enjoying each others crashes and Ando's music Somewhere near two hours we finally arrived near the peak. I was beat. Now we needed to find the trailhead that led back down to the Cogswell Dam. We came across a lone mountain bike rider that pointed us in the general direction that we needed to take to begin the descent to Cogswell Dam. In the following thumbnail you can see the Dam far below us. Here is where I made the fateful mistake of picking the wrong trail. It went down and looked to be in the general direction, so let's go for it. I really should have spent as long as I needed to be sure, but in the back of my mind I figured if it was wrong we'd probably realize it fairly soon and just backtrack. What I didn't take into consideration was my failing body :-( As we proceeded down this trail it slowly got sketchier and sketchier. First there were small dead falls (trees that fall across a trail) and then bigger and bigger ones where it took minutes to carry and or drag the wheel across. I was getting weaker. I had no more food and none of us had any more water. Remember that I said it was going to be in the 90's today. I felt like I was beginning to get symptoms of dehydration - shaky legs and arms and extreme fatigue. I could only ride 20 feet before I would loose control and had to stop and rest for a few minutes. By this time I had a few more rather severe falls which further hampered my ability to ride the wheel. Besides my difficulties, it had become clear that we were somewhat lost. This was certainly not the trail to the Cogswell Dam. I could simply not go further. At this point I was with Jeff. Ando had explored further along the trail and when he returned he said that he found water (we could hear a stream in the distance below). You don't know how excited I was to hear this. I felt that maybe if I got some water I may recover enough to continue at some level. Jeff took my empty water bottle and disappeared down the trail to return with water. I was feeling a bit mentally refreshed. While Jeff was away Ando and I tried to figure out exactly where we were. I had offline Google maps in my phone and a Garmin 60CS handheld navigator. BTW, GPS reception was not great within these mountains. But we eventually determined our exact location. Miles from the trail that we should have taken. I had arrived at a difficult decision. Like the sailboat captain in the middle of the ocean that grapples with the decision to press the emergency beacon, knowing that when he does so he will be rescued but his boat will be left behind, gone forever. But I knew that I could not continue back uphill to retrace our steps by a few miles and then down another 15 miles. Impossible. So I told Ando to leave me and get back to the area where we made the bad turn. In that area there was a line of site to the greater Los Angeles area and there was cell phone coverage. "Tell them that a person was suffering from exhaustion and dehydration. Call 911". Now by this point at least 15 minutes had passed and Jeff probably should have returned within 10 minutes since Ando knew the water was only 5 minutes away by wheel. But we continued to wait. While doing so Ando took my Monster and rode/carried it up the trail past a few of the sever dead-falls. And then walked back. Amazing, and as you'll learn in a bit, very important that he did so. Still no Jeff. Instead of sending Ando to look for Jeff I suggested that he go the other way, and I'll wait for him. So Ando disappeared with his ACM and I was alone in the middle of what felt like nowhere. I think it was about 3pm at this point. I lay on the ground and was anticipating a bottle of water with great joy. Maybe another fifteen minutes went by. Nothing. Then I started thinking, "Maybe something happened to Jeff. Was there an accident. Did his ACM break". I slowly started walking down the trail. 20 steps and then lay on the ground to recover. 20 steps, lay on the ground. I did this for maybe 15 minutes but realized that if he was hurt or the wheel was broken I was in no condition to help. And I had told Ando that if possible I would try and walk back to the trail junction at the top of the mountain. So I abandoned Jeff and ever so slowly started walking up hill. 20 steps, lay on the ground, ad nausea-um. I still had hopes that Jeff would return with water. I would have given away my Monster for water at that point. It really was horrible. At this incredibly slow pace I managed to get past the large dead-falls. I never would have been able to get my Monster past these obstacles in my condition. Eventually I found my Monster and could not believe how far Ando had taken it for me. I then proceeded to push it and myself up the trail, in spurts of low speed energy. A trolley handle may have helped, but just the effort of pushing the Monster and walking was too much. After maybe an hour I decided to abandon the Monster, knowing that I would never see it again. I wasn't worried about someone finding and taking it. First, nobody sane travels this impassible trail, and if someone did they wouldn't know what it was, and at 70 pounds I don't think they would try and carry it out. No, I would never see it again because I would never be able to get in here to recover it. That would entail hiking 15 - 20 miles which is a long hike on flat ground. I just didn't see myself being able to do that. I marked the location where I did leave it, in my Garmin 60CS thinking that I would post to Facebook and the Forum with the coordinates and anybody who thinks they could retrieve it could keep it. No bad feelings on my part. Anyway, it was load off my mind when I fully committed to never seeing it again. Let that be a strong reminder to what not to do in the future. I continued the painfully slow march. I was worried for my health because I know dehydration can be bad. But I tried not to exhaust myself too much. Walk for a few minutes and then lay down. Walk, lay down. Minutes turned to hours. I was thinking maybe if I eventually got to that magic "cell phone coverage" area that I could call 911 in case Ando wasn't able to. It's amazing what goes through your mind when you can't communicated with people who are trying to help you.What happened to Jeff? Did Ando make it out yet? Knowing where we had last all been together I was thinking positive and assuming that Jeff decided to explore that path beyond the river and went so far that he decided not to return with water. I knew that particular trail wound its way back up to the top of another mountain range to the 2 freeway which then led to civilization. So if he got out he would be able to call. But I had my doubts that we would have enough remaining power to climb another couple thousand feet and maybe 20 miles. I kept think that if I get rescued I'm going to have to tell them about Jeff so that they can search for him next. After maybe 3 hours I came across these maintenance trucks and construction equipment that we had passed on the way down. I opened every truck and door I could get into and FOUND WATER. Two old water bottles with maybe a 1/3 full of water each was an amazing find. First I sniffed it to be sure that they weren't storing fuel and then guzzled them down. Water had never tasted to good. Although it did not help with the exhaustion in my legs, it did help with the thirst and made me feel like I actually wasn't going to collapse somewhere up here in the mountains. I continued to walk, imagining what might be happening with Ando and Jeff. And then of course I was worrying about my wife because in the absolutely worst case I probably should have been home by now. But there was nothing I could do. She did know the general trails that we were taking (at least I got one thing right), but it would probably be very dark before she pulled the trigger and called 911. So I was still prepared for a very much longer day and night. Dusk was approaching when I started to hear a helicopter somewhere in the distance. That was the first mechanical sound I had heard for hours. I thought I heard a plane too. I did see the helicopter at one point but it was miles in the distance. Amazingly I had made it back to trail junction where we made the bad turn. And then I heard and saw a large search and rescue type helicopter hovering over me, but very high. I was in an area where there were power line towers (thus the maintenance equipment found earlier) plus I'm sure they generally stay far above the trees. I waived both my hands for a little bit and then it moved off to the distance a bit and hovered again. Then it left. "Well, that's it. I've been found and now help will be on the way". That was a huge psychological lift for me. So I continued to walk, and walk, and walk. It was now totally dark, after 8pm. Fortunately I had small pen flashlight so I could see the path in front of me. No longer fearing collapse from dehydration I could start contemplating coming across bears or mountain lions, both of which live in these mountains. What joy! I then spotted a brief flash of light followed shortly by a truck rounding the corner ahead. You can imagine what I thought at that sight. It eventually slowed to a stop beside me and I was asked my name (I guess they didn't want to pick up the wrong guy) and let me in the truck. There were four uniformed men in there, all volunteers for the Sierra Mountain Search and Rescue. They gave me all the water I wanted and bagged peanuts. Life was good. Shortly after I got in the crowded vehicle I asked if they happened to know about any other ..., and before I could complete the sentence they told me that all three people have now been accounted for. So Jeff was alive ;-) I assumed Ando was good because otherwise I probably wouldn't be sitting in the truck at the top of the mountain. Now get this, they then asked me, "do you want to go get your 'bike'?" Are you kidding me? I tried to suggest that I didn't want to put them through the trouble (I really didn't), but they insisted. They said that they were already up there so why not. It probably took another half an hour and a locked gate to get within a few hundred feet of where I left it. The last bit had to be walked since the trail conditions were too severe for the truck. So I actually got my Monster back. It felt like I just received a new wheel because in my mind I given it up for lost. As we drove down the mountain for the next 1-1/2 hours I learned that Jeff had been recovered on the 2 freeway, and Ando was the one that called it in. Eventually I met up with Jeff as we were brought together at the base of the mountain to be driven back to our vehicles (20 miles away). There Jeff told me how he amazing made it back up to the highway on the other side of the mountain range and then down towards town, almost on a zero battery charge. His 2040wh ACM truly has been an amazing wheel. I also learned from the rescuers that the helicopter had not seen me! Amazing. The guys said that in the future you should lay on the ground and move, otherwise all they see from above is a head, and that's hard to distinguise from everything else. So they found me based on what Ando was able to tell them. You can read some of what Jeff encountered here: And then when I finally got home around midnight (having left in the morning at 8am) I eventually read about Ando's experience which was amazing in itself. His ACM has also proven to be an amazing wheel. Essentially going 10 miles down mountain trails with almost no battery power remaining. You can read is account here: And here is the dam (it was not Cogswell after all) that Ando got to: And the 911 help that arrived after he made the call So there you have it. I think none of us will forget this ride. It's been four days and I'm still having difficulty riding, which really surprised me. When yesterday I hopped on my KS14C for a short utilitarian trip I almost crashed as the wheel was very wobbly. I had a hard time turning. It was then that I realized that my legs were still weak and uncoordinated. Amazing. Although I declared that I wouldn't do this again, time heals all wounds ;-) I know Jeff is up to doing it again, and maybe Ando will be to. We will be better prepared next time. More water, food, maps, only ACM's or the like, and a bigger breakfast. Oh, and Jeff says he'll bring his ham radio (which hopefully will not be needed). I hope you enjoyed my little adventure story
  2. 37 points
    Apologies to everyone for keeping the suspense. If you are planning on travelling to China & having access to your Gmail, YouTube, Drive, etc, the one thing you can depend on is that these sites will not only be inaccessible, but the days of circumvention through VPN is also effectively blocked across the country, making it a real pain to stay in contact with the rest of the world. On Tuesday I did a day trip from Shenzhen to Beijing in order to try out the new Z series, see if it lived up to the hype. I have to admit that with the limited evidence from the few clips floating around, I was sceptical that the Z would hold up to very high expectations. The Ninebot staff were very obliging, they not only gave me access to their R&D area, but answered all my numerous questions about every conceivable aspect of the Wheel, also allowing me to take pictures of the internals. Overall Impressions: So... the important questions that every Wheel enthusiast probably wants to know are: what is like to ride? With the ultra-wide tire is there impairment to manoeuvrability? Will it be able to cope with extreme gradients & high speeds similar to the latest generation Wheels that are marking their way onto the market? Although there was only a limited opportunity to try it out on the Ninebot HQ grounds (no hills) in freezing conditions, I am pleased to report, that to me, it is going to be a formidable new product of 2018, a complete redemption for the failure of the premature P release two years ago. I found stability at both low & high speed to be excellent. Similar to the V5F, there's a torque ripple effect at low speed, you can feel the small pulses of power. At higher speed, it feels sure-footed & completely secure. The model I tested was the smaller battery Z6, electronically capped to 30kph. I did a couple runs building up confidence to push the acceleration. On reaching the max speed there's a progressive, non-jerking, tilt-back to prevent overspeed with a not unpleasant audible warning. With the 4" tire it's to be expected that there will be a bit of reduction in turning radius over the narrow tire Wheels, in my testing this was nothing dramatic, I was able to a full circle in a less than a meter. If you're thinking about using the Z as your Hurste acrobat Wheel, then it's probably not the best choice for this purpose. I'll be posting some video clips once I've caught up on things in the next couple days. Negatives: For the present, Ninebot plan to fit the Z with the same old pedals as the E+. I'm going to try to lobby for longer pedals, if not successful, we may be getting some Custom ones C&Cd. It would seem a pity that for all the time/effort invested into this wonderful new machine, the 3 year old ones would be fitted—pedals are after all the most important element between the Rider to Machine interface. Control Board Building on the lessons learned from the unfortunate P release, the Z's control-board is massively over-engineered to take practically any load. The motor is powered by 12x ST 15180 MOSFETs (300A peak)—need to double-check the model, a search for this model is not yielding any results. There are two input wires from the battery pack that feed into primary board. As for the question of redundancy on the motor, the Engineer said that it's the standard 3 hall sensors with a single set of the wires that all modern higher performance Electric Unicycles are fitted with, so nothing special there. An independent daughter board with the BT module, inputs, LEDs connectors, control functions mounts into the power-board & is fitted with a fuse, while the primary power-board is not fused. I was told that the firmware allows a max peak power of 200A to preserve the hardware from catastrophic failure. In real-word conditions, that would be a perceptible slight dip with a 300lb load racing up a vertical cliff face. The heat-sink on the board side of the shell is simply gargantuan, it occupies nearly the full side of the inner-shell of a solid block of aluminium (40cm x 30cm x 2cm) weighing an impressive >1kg! Lighting The internal shell has two rings of LEDs that are visible directly in front or behind. Front is fitted with three very bright headlight LEDs (combined these are unquestionable the brightest on any Wheel today) & about a dozen smaller App Customizable ones for the tail light. Are there any other hardware differences between Z6/8/10 besides the battery pack size? No, it has the same board, shell & motor. Firmware settings are tweak between the variants to cap max speed depending on the battery type. Not certain if the Z6 can be upgraded to a Z10 through the installation of the larger pack. Because of wide 4" tire, will it be easier to learn how to use for new Riders? This was not a design objective for Wheel, but by lowering the pressure, it will offer a wider profile that should be more stable & easier to use. Will the trolley handle be available when the Wheel is ready to ship? Yes, I'm trying to see that it gets included as 'standard equipment' When will the Z be available? Current guidance is around the May-June period, similar release dates to the new Inmotion V10 (V8+) & KS18L Is the Wheel capable of fast-charging? Although fitted with a propriety charging connector, it will be capable of 7A fast-charging. Because of the lower voltage, total charging input power of 350W What will the pricing be in North America? Based on the expected order volumes, we're going to be placing a fairly substantial initial order, so that the total price for the Z10, including shipping, will be at around the $1550 level. View of the control-board side of the Wheel. Close up of the board Between the hex screws is the absolutely massive heat-sink. Recessed battery pack chamber fits well inside the Wheel. 51.8V (nominal) battery pack composed of 84x LG MH1 cells, 3.2Ah for a combined capacity of 995Wh. The voltage was kept lower in order to meet the potential for UL certification. As a result, there was a great deal of Engineering effort to yield high power through more current. A jet-lagged Jason with the chief Ninebot Engineer, the brains behind the Z. It's an interesting phenomenon that this project was initiated at the behest of the Engineering department, not from marketing research/
  3. 35 points
    The Z10 is in the house Today I received the Z10 from Chooch. I am going to give him a hard time, but only because he's causing me some unneeded work and stress. It's all in fun though, but he deserves it As you know by now, the tire valve access is via a port on the side of the wheel, and requires a long (~4-inch) valve extender to access for filling. As shown in his video, he didn't care too much for the one that ships with the wheel. So he opted to use an existing one that he had from an earlier Ninebot wheel of his. I guess he decided to throw away the one that comes with the Z10, because it wasn't in the box. And I don't have an old Ninebot wheel kicking around the house. And the tire was essentially flat because that's how he liked riding it. With my additional 55-pounds the wheel was unrideable in the flat condition that it was in. Imagine your feelings, having just received one of the coolest wheels being made, and only being able to look at it. After calling various stores I realized that I'm not going to be able to buy an extension tube locally and it could be a day before I could possibly bum one off a local rider (nobody lives nears me). But then I decided to try something ghetto. I drove to a local PepBoys and bought a pack of four 1-inch valve extenders. I got home, ripped the package open, and screwed them together end-to-end. It worked! I as able to fill the tire The air in the tire did not register on my gauge, so Chooch really likes it low. I pumped it up to 20-psi for now. Next, he didn't send it to me charged or clean. Looks like it came right from the trails. And you know those pads he taped to the shell? Well, he used Duct Tape. You now what that means right? Lots of sticky residue on the shell. So I'll be spending a fair amount of time cleaning it so it looks purty in the videos. There, I feel better now. Chooch, you owe me one Very First Impressions This is one very nice looking wheel in person, and damn heavy. When I showed my wife, her unprompted reaction was, "That's cool looking". I don't think she's said that about any of my other wheels. This wheel is going to turn heads for sure ? Last night I had downloaded the Ninebot Android app; apparently only one is used for all of their devices. Wow is all I have to say. I immediately connected to the wheel and I didn't have to create an account or give my social security number. It knew everything about the Z10 and was super easy to configure. Why can't us KingSong and Gotway owners experience the joys of an app like this? No Chinese. Just my native language. Kudos to Ninebot. Any way, the wheel is charging. After the charge and cleaning, my first ride will be a night ride. I'll try and capture all of the light affects on video. More to come of course. Tomorrow is a Demo day for anyone in Southern California who wants to see and ride it.
  4. 35 points
    No I drew that by hand. I should have stayed home after that. Unfortunately I decided to take the GW1600 out for a ride and ended up crashing. The wheel went into a uncontrollable wobble at high speed. I just returned from the emergency room. I suffered a fractured humerus that is going to require the Humpty Dumpty approach ( screws and plate) to put me back together again. My employees are terrified that I cannot work. Being the only practitioner in my practice I’m terrified as well. So this ends my riding days forever. Thank God for helmets. The extended jawline protected my face and head where I only suffered a small laceration above my eye. It has been a fun run. I really enjoyed everyone’s friendship and commerode! I just can’t put my wife, kids and employees through this again. My son was definately looking down and protected me from a much worse accident. Take care and be safe! Dan
  5. 35 points
    There is a similar topic on the Russian EUC forum, and it is gaining popularity due to the frequent contributions of outstanding EUC artist - @Дед62. I got his permission to re-post his work here in the hope that it may inspire other artists and will extend the gallery of our favorite gadget. I believe you will enjoy this creative work. Feel free to post in this topic any other image which you consider to be relevant to "EUC art" Happy EUC Sailor Tricks With Violin Taxi Winter Evening With The Wheel Ambulance Delivery Battle of Kulikovo (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Kulikovo) Parade Beach Towing Services Man and His Friend Icarus Bogatyrs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viktor_Vasnetsov) comments from left to right: - ... what a mess... - ... and where is your power plug, Popovitch? ... - ... mongols fricking stole it again... Medieval Tournament London 1920 The Moving Guy Burlaks (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barge_Haulers_on_the_Volga) all praises go to @Дед62
  6. 35 points
    Sorry friends for my english. Its google translate. Its a very big topic to make it by their knowledge. If somebody can do better - use original http://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=51168.msg1199893#msg1199893 P.S. The recall company for Gotway is not included. Therefore, statistics on the Got are slightly larger in reality. Means further I shall be guided by such logic: I will take the number of sales from February to July (take the month of February as a spare, since some devices could first travel) Wheels will be loaded according to the following logic - inmoshen v5, v5f - one wheel; v3c, v3pro, v3s - one wheel, msuper680 and 820 - one wheel, acm680 and 820 - one wheel and tp. Conclusions look at the very bottom of B-) March GotWay 1. ACM 680 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. ACM 680 - does not turn on - button replacement 3. MCM4 - do not peep - replace the peeple 4. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - motor replacement, replacement of the controller 5. MCM4 - the wheel twitches - the soldering logic 6. Msuper1680 - does not turn on - controller replacement 7. Msuper1680 - burned-out controller replacement 8. Msuper1680 - does not turn on - controller replacement KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS18 - does not turn on - controller replacement Inmotion 1. V3 - does not turn off: dance: - display replacement 2. V8 - does not turn on - replacing the button connector 3. V8 - LEDs are not lit - LEDs are replaced 4. V8 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. V3 - does not turn on, does not charge - replace the controller, battery 6. V3 - noise at driving - bearing replacement April Gotway 1. Msuper1600 - does not turn on, the handle is broken - the controller is replaced, the pen is replaced 2. Msuper680 - twitches - resolves the logic 3. ACM680 - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. MCM4 520 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. GotWay ACM - does not turn on - controller replacement 6. MCM4 - does not go more than 12 km / h - controller replacement 7. MCM4 - extraneous sound when driving - bearing replacement 8. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 9. MCM4 - does not turn on - change the power button 10. Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. MCM4 - jerks when driving - motor replacement KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse 3. KS14B - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. KS16S - vibration at driving - alignment of a rim 6. KS16 - turns on once - button is replaced 7. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 8. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse Inmotion 1. V3 - does not turn on - battery recovery 2. V8 - the engine lock button does not work - reassembly 3. V5 - turns off - controller replacement 4. V5 + - at 11 km / h raises the pedals - replaces the controller 5. V5f - noise during driving - bearing replacement 6. V8 - does not turn on - replace the controller, replace the battery May GotWay 1. Luffy - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. MCM4 - vibration while driving - controller replacement: neg: 3. MSuper1600 - not calibrated - controller replacement 4. MSuper1600 - ignition controller: laugh: - controller replacement 5. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 6. MCM4 - short circuit - replacement of the controller 7. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 8. MCM4 - does not work correctly - soldering of the sensors of the hall 9. MSuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 10. MSuper - does not charge - re-solder charging terminals 11. Luffy - not calibrated - controller replacement 12. MCM4 - twitches when driving - Resolving Hall sensors 13. ACM680 - twitches when driving - soldering logic 14. GotWay Monster - does not turn on - controller replacement 15. GotWay Msuper680 - does not turn on - controller replacement KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse 2. KS16 - does not turn on - replace the fuse 3. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS14B - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. KS14B - does not charge - solder battery 6. KS14C - flooded with water - motor replacement 7. KS14B - does not charge - balancing the battery Inmotion 1. V3 - does not charge - battery replacement 2. V8 - does not charge - soldering of the battery cables 3. V5F - not calibrated - controller replacement 4. V5 - does not turn on - flashing 5. 4. V3 - does not turn on - display replacement June GotWay 1. ACM - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 3. Monster - vibration while driving - soldering of the sensors of the hall 4. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 5. Msuper 1600 - not going - controller replacement 6. Msuper 1600 - controller controller - controller replacement 7. ACM - knocking on the road - soldering the controller's elements 8. MCM4 - Кз controller - replacement of the controller 9. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 10. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. Monster - vibration while driving - soldering of the sensors of the hall 12. Monster - does not connect to the application - replace bluetooth 13. Msuper1600 - strong vibration at driving - replacement of the controller, soldering of sensors of the hall KingSong 1. KS16 - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS18 - does not charge - re-solder battery 3. KS14B - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS18 - not charging - soldering the charging connector 5. KS14C - does not turn on - controller replacement (failure to repair) Inmotion 1. V5 - does not turn on - battery replacement 2. V3pro - twitching in motion - Resolving Hall sensors 3. V8 - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 4. V3pro - does not charge - solder battery 5. V8 - does not turn on - controller replacement 6. V8 - disconnected during driving - controller replacement 7. V8 - does not charge - battery replacement 8. V8 - does not turn on - controller replacement July GotWay 1. ACM680 - does not turn on, the case is broken - replacement of the controller, housing 2. Msuper 1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 3. Msuper820 - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. ACM - extraneous sound while driving - Resolving Hall sensors 5. Msuper820 - extraneous sound when driving - Resolving Hall sensors 6. MCM4 - K3 on the board, does not turn on - controller replacement 7. Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 8. Msuper V2>: D - jerks when driving - controller replacement 9. Msuper820 - does not turn on - Resolving Hall sensors 10. ACM - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. Msuoer1600 - knocking on when turned on - controller replacement, hall sensors 12. Msuper680 - does not turn on - Resolving Hall sensors 13. Msuper820 - does not turn on - controller replacement 14. MSUPER 1600 - Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 15. MSUPER 1600 - Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement 16. Msuper1600 - does not turn on - controller replacement KingSong 1. KS14C - does not turn on - controller replacement 2. KS18 - does not turn on - Reset the power button 3. KS16S% -) - does not turn on - controller replacement 4. KS18 - low mileage - battery balancing Inmotion 1. V5f - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 2. V5f - does not turn on - replace the fuse 3. V8 - noise during driving - soldering of the sensors of the hall 4. V5 - driving noise - bearing replacement 5. V3C - does not turn on - battery replacement 6. V5F - does not turn on - controller replacement 7. V8 - does not turn on - flashing 8. V8 - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 9. V3 pro - jerks when turned on - controller replacement 10. V5F - does not turn on - controller replacement 11. V5 - does not turn on - replacement of the power button 12. V8 - does not turn on, resampling the hall sensors 13. V8 - the button for locking the motor does not work - the button is replaced 14. V8 - disconnected during driving - battery replacement 15. V5F - does not turn on - battery replacement 16. V3pro - power-on error - controller replacement Conclusions: 1. Here there is a full percentage of marriage for any service call due to electronic or electrical problems (here, mechanical damages and tire punctures are not taken into account) The percentage of rejects from sold devices during the period February-July 2017 is indicated. In brackets, my comments are highlighted by a frame. Inmotin: V8 - 4.8% (excellent quality: wow :, there were a lot of sales) V5, +, F - 5.88% V3c, pro, s - 7.8% KingSong KS14B - 3.33% KS14C - 15% (due to low sales, as the model changed to 14d) KS14D - was not in the service (selling was enough) KS16 - 7.33% KS16S - 1.12% KS18 - 17,24% (transition to sports) KS18S - was not in the service (sales were moderate) GotWay MCM4 - 18.57% ACM 680,820 - 36,6% ACM 1300 - 35% (a small number of sales, according to my personal feelings this is the best of the gothweb) Msuper 680,820 - 11,11% (the average number of sales, here statistics is more visible) Msuper 1600 - 36.98% (every 3 users of a pregnant soup met in the service, the statistics could be a little lower, because in my memory there were repeated calls for the same problem) Monster - 23.4% (a small number of sales) 2. And here now I will show the statistics of the marriage in percent only on the controllers and sensors of the hall. Inmotin: V8 - 1,97% (the standard, as I already said) V5, +, F - 2.71% V3c, pro, s - 2,12% KingSong KS14B - 2% (reference wheel standard) KS14C - 10% KS14D - was not in the service (selling was enough) KS16 - 3,33% (the percentage of the marriage is halved due to the fuse on the board) KS16S - 1.12% (reference) KS18 - 6.89% (the percentage of rejects decreased threefold, 18 of the usual words had problems with the charging connectors and balancing the battery) KS18S - was not in the service (sales were moderate) GotWay MCM4 - 14.28% ACM 680,820 - 26,6% ACM 1300 - 14.28% (all problems are of the same type - controllers or hall sensors) Msuper 680,820 - 9,25% Msuper 1600 - 34,24% (every 3 users of a pregnant soup met in the service, the statistics could be a little lower, since in my memory there were repeated calls for the same problem) Monster - 23.4% (a small number of sales) Final output: Let's break our conclusion by brands. - Inmotion is very good with the quality of monocols and this statistics confirms this. Sales were many and the statistics complete. Inmotion keep it up, there is much to grow. But in general. Well done. - KingSong - the average percentage of rejects for old models (14c, 16 and 18). And the phenominal results for the new sports versions. I also want to note separately 14B - the best wheel for entering the monocoque tusovka in relation to quality. You pay a little, you drive sadly, but not in service: laugh:: laugh:: laugh: - Gotway - it's bad ... We need to work on quality. No model can compete in quality with either kingsong or inmoshenom. There are weak attempts at Msuper680, 820, but not enough. Msuper1600 - generally horror. 84B and the controller from gothve is a nuclear device. As I have already written many times - buying goths makes sense only when you understand what you are taking. Exceptionally speed. If you are not about the actress, unfortunately, goths should not be considered. I very much hope that the gothwa will draw its quality to the level of the standard set by Inmotion and KingSong. P.S. If you have something else to count or see - ask questions in the topic - I will try to find answers to them. Since October 2017, we will have a new program for recording faults and everything will be much better and clearer in it.
  7. 34 points
    This is the information we have so far: The Wheel had 7000km, in 9 months, when it was sent in for repair in late November It had sustained multiple crashes (David had written this in an earlier communication), destroyed inner-shell, chew-up motor wires, which also destroyed the controller; it was a unique specimen of a damaged Wheel. We have a good documentary trail for this repair. When it was sent back out, everything was changed except the battery pack. There was no visual indication, or other evidence that anything was wrong with the pack at that time. Assuming that it had done similar mileage over the intervening 5 months, it had then clocked up a further 4000+ km; possible subsequent crash damage? Quite probably. He had been using only the standard 2A charger with the Wheel, he has also confirmed it was not charging at the time it lit up. His therapist is another first-hand eye-witness account who can corroborate what exactly happened at the time. I will be contacting both the therapist & the NY Fire Department to assist in the investigation. At this moment, it's not clear what evidence is recoverable from the site. If one had to speculate into causation, then based on what we know from the V10F affair, if water does permeate into the cells, accelerated corrosion will cause a short between the electrodes, creating a runaway cell thermal chain reaction. Understandably David is in a state of shock & is angry, replacing the Wheel is small beans; what is important to me, is that we have a clearer picture on causation, so a similar event does not happen again. As bad as the situation is, it might have been a whole lot worse!
  8. 34 points
    Hello everybody, have fun! It was a lot of fun for me to do it, and a good motivation to heal my broken arm during this summer. Thanks to all the people who organize this contest. Hirsute
  9. 33 points
    After two weeks of being held up at Customs, the long awaited pre-production 18XL turned up yesterday For some context & background: I received one of the original 18L pre-production Wheels back in April; the packaging foam wasn't properly thought out, so that the power button came into contact with the foam, causing it turn on & burn-out the control-board before even taking it out of the box. This time round, KS have really taken this issue seriously, so that the foam is positioned below power button, & if it were to somehow turn on, the Wheel is shipped with the software lock enabled—they've started doing this on all their Wheels. I've now accumulated about 1000 miles on the 18L, switching from an early V10F. While discussions on the V10F are bound to bring on a fierce debate between owners, it was, probably still is, the most ergonomic & comfortable Wheel ever made, with its comparatively narrow body & large pedals, that fat 2.5" wide tire, made for a wonderful ride experience. I switched over to the 18L mainly because of the V10F's throttling on <60% battery became annoying, while of charge remaining, the 18L satiated this need to maintain a >40kph cruising speed, but it was not without some loss. Within a week of making the change, I hit an unmarked speed bump, resulting in an unplanned dismount crash... While I was wearing minimal protection (wrist-guards) it was reminder of the potential hazards of Wheeling, during the couple days of down-time pondered if some larger pedals might have allowed a surer foothold & recover from that second of air-time. I've been lobbying for larger pedals with King Song for four years, but there wasn't much interest on the their end, citing that it would 'ruin the aesthetics' & 'not requested from other Distributors'. After clocking a 1000 miles on the V10F, with the accumulated experience with this Wheel, it was evident, the significant advantages that would accrue from this comparatively small change. Undeterred I proposed that eWheels would fund the larger pedal project, the results of which can be seen below. Although only 20% larger than the original type—25cm vs 20cm—visually the new pedal simply dwarfs the original, Notice how the edges have been tapered, more oval than rectangular. These preproduction set were CNCd, the production version will using the same magnesium alloy as before, the profile does seem to be slightly thicker for greater strength & durability(?). One minor compliant, is that the grip tape pads the same as size as on the smaller 20cm pedal, would prefer that these extend to the outer edge of the pedal. The real substance of the XL is inside, the massive 1550Wh battery pack. To accommodate those extra cells, the cell depth has been raised to two cells in height, 7 cells across columns one & two, & 9 cells in column three—the pack is asymmetrical, with more cells on packed on the right side than the left. Unlike the 18L, where the pack is enclosed in a battery casing, in this sample, the battery structure is comparatively primitive, with a single layer of blue wrapping around the pack. A concern could be that the outer shell body is now in contact with the pack, where if the Wheel receives a sufficient hard side-blow, it might place stresses on the nickel plates weld joints between the cells. Is this simply a characteristics of this prerelease prototype? Will there be silicon injection between cells, as there are in other packs, to transfer the physical stresses from the conductive plates? These questions should be answered next week. Here you can see the reinforcing 18L rib has been ground down to fit the fatter batter pack, presenting a challenge to existing Customers who might be considering upgrading to the 18XL. Another enhancement to the 18L is the new cleaner looking mud-guard, it's also made of a synthetic rubber that is screwed into the shell. I'll be posting an update with some further impressions sometime tomorrow, sorry, I ran out of time on this initial report.
  10. 32 points
  11. 32 points
    EDIT: As promised I added two more tires to the comparison – 5. Chao Yang H-5167 and 6. CST E-Bike PRO. You can find the description, video, scores and final conclusion below. As some of you may know from my first post in Inmotion thread, I have recently bought my first wheel - Inmotion V5F+. After learning how to ride the wheel, I started using it for daily commute to work and going around the city. I am absolutely thrilled by the wheel, but after few hundred kilometers and some strange and unexpected behaviour I started to doubt the tire that came with it. Therefore I bought 3 other 14 inch tires and made this little comparison that I would like to share with all that might be interested and could find it useful: DESCRIPTION: 1. Hota Tyre Slick, soft rubber tire, with very simple and shallow tread. This was the tire that came with my wheel and quite soon after learning to ride I became suspicious that this might not be very good tire. It could be a good tire but only for asphalt without any surface imperfections. Pros: very manoeuvrable and has a really good grip on good asphalt surface. Not bumpy when jumping down from reasonable heights. Low roll resistance. Cons: it REALY (!) likes to misbehave when you have any vertical lines or deformations along your route, you are immediately “railed”. This might be because when it warms up it gets “mushy” and the slick surface probably seeps into the deformations on the road. Uncomfortable when bumping into curbs. Before I tried other tires I thought that I maybe don't know how to handle the curbs because my knees sometimes hurt after longer rides. Now I know that is not the case because I never experienced this with other tires. For some reason this tire was also unable to hold the pressure above 40psi. I would pump it to 45psi and after few kilometers it would be back to 40. I used the same inner tube on all tires I tested. 2. CST Rhino King This is new model from CST with “puncture protection” and the most expensive electric bike tire I could find on Alibaba/Aliexpress/Taobao, so I thought it might be good. It is by far the most hard / rigid tire of the whole bunch, with relatively complex and very pronounced tread. This would be a very good tire if not for one fatal flaw. Pros: Stable during straight riding, good grip both on asphalt and gravel, quite comfortable when bumping into curbs, has puncture protection. Cons: Well this tire has one fatal combination for the EUC – it is very hard and it has such a steep fall-off on the tread that it is almost unreasonably difficult to control during leaning left or right. When you ride straight with only small left or right course changes it is perfect, but when you need to make any little bit more aggressive turn or lean into one side, you really have to work to keep the wheel from falling down :-( 3. Schwalbe Big Apple So called “balloon” tire, from well known Schwalbe brand. Simple and shallow but dense tread on soft and almost slick rubber surface. This tire has different construction from the other tires, with soft, paper thin side walls from different material (think its kevlar reinforced?) and is very deformable when not inflated. Many sources say that it has to be inflated to minimum of 55psi when used on EUC or otherwise you risk damage to the side walls, so I tested it both on 45psi (like other tires) and on 55psi. This is the only tire with slightly lower width – 14x2.0 (others are 14x2.125) Pros: Best tire for bumping into curbs and amortising any kind of bumps, especially when inflated to 45psi, but even on 55psi it’s still the best in this regard. Very good grip on asphalt. Relatively good directional stability, especially considering the shallow tread and soft surface. Low rolling resistance. Cons: Bit bumpy when jumping down from curbs, not the best grip on gravel. There is also potential damage to side walls (as reported by dmethwin on Firewheel thread). I travelled 80km on this tire and even after this low mileage there was some black dusty “residue” coming off the side walls when I dismounted the tire from the wheel. Not certain how this would influence safety in the long run. 4. Chao Yang H-5146 Tire from harder rubber, but not like CST Rhino King, about half as hard. Pronounced and complex tread. Pros: Most stable tire of all tested on any surface, it just goes where you want it to go without any unexpected surprises. Inmotion V5F+ is a very agile small wheel, which sometimes represented a challenge for relatively inexperienced driver like me (total of 800km in 45 days) when faced with nasty road anomalies , but this tire gives it another dimension in stability without compromising manoeuvrability! Very good directional stability and handling of vertical anomalies on the asphalt surfaces. Good grip both on asphalt and gravel. Cons: Could be better when bumping into curbs, but this is not a real con, only wishful thinking after being spoiled by bump amortisation performance of the Schwalbe Big Apple, which is the only tire out of the tested ones that is better in this regard. This tire has quite pronounced grip and therefore two slick tires have a little bit lower rolling resistance. 5. Chao Yang H-5167 Medium soft tire with added puncture protection layer. Very complex and relatively pronounced tread. Pros: This tire forced me to rethink the score table. I expected something quite similar to Chao Yang H-5146 just with added puncture protection, and although these two tires share many good characteristics, this is in some aspects entirely different beast. In one word – SPEED – this thing rolls like crazy, I was actually convinced that my V5F+ somehow restored to the lower speed limit after the tire change because I have never before reached 25km/h speed limit and tiltback so easily. And the best thing is that it manages to maintain almost all of that wonderful control and stability that H-5146 exhibits. Great handling of anomalies on the road, good impact absorption when bumping into curbs, not bumpy while jumping… and on top all of that it has additional puncture protection layer. Cons: Slightly less (5-10%) controllable than H-5146, probably due to crazy good rolling resistance 6. CST E-Bike Pro If I am not mistaken, this is the tire that usually comes with Kingsong and Gotway wheels (although I can't say how it behaves in sizes other than 14 inch !). Medium soft rubber, pronounced tread. I just had to test at least one more CST tire to have something from another serious manufacturer as a reference to compare to the two Chao-Yang’s. This tire is made of different rubber compound, it’s not super soft but it sticks like crazy, reminds me of the winter car tires. It is also the only one of the tested tires that screeches on the glossy surfaces like marble tiles and those surfaces in shopping mall garages. Pros: Good rolling resistance, great grip on asphalt and good on gravel, fabulous handling of curbs and jumps (very close to Schwalbe Big Abble, and that is a balloon tire -could be that rubber compound?) Cons: Slightly sharper fall-off from the center of the tread to the sides – not nearly as unusable like on the CST Rhino King, but you can still feel it, especially when compared to the Chao-Yang’s. This makes it bit less controllable and sometimes “jerky”. Although it has good grip on the gravel, you have to work more due to that fall-off to keep it under control when wheel bumps around on the uneven surface. I am probably just spoiled by Chao-Yangs by now… VISUAL COMPARISON: SCORE: Tire brand / type Hota Tyre CST Rhino King Schwalbe Big Apple Chao Yang H-5146 Chao Yang H-5167 CST E-Bike Pro Size 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.00 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.125 Ride Comfort 8 8 10 10 10 10 Control 10 2 9 10 9 7 Grip Asphalt 10 8 8 10 10 10 Grip Gravel 4 8 6 8 8 8 Impact absorption 5 8 10 9 9 10 Directional stability 2 10 8 10 10 10 Temperature stability 4 10 10 10 10 10 Rolling resistance 9 8 10 8 10 9 TOTAL: 52 62 71 75 76 74 I am not expert on tires and all of the above are only my personal impressions and conclusions after using these tires on my EUC. All of the tires are tested on the same Inmotion V5F+ and with the same inner tube (Tube brand is Chao Yang). I tried each of the tires for at least 80km. CONCLUSION: Chao-Yang H-5167 is the tire that stays on my wheel. It’s simply best overall and checks practically all important “boxes”. H-5146 would be best beginners tire, it’s so controllable, relaxed and forgiving. Both CST tires have great rubber compound, but the tread has this pronounced center section and then somewhat steep fall-off, which results in less smooth experience and requires more work to control the wheel.
  12. 31 points
  13. 29 points
    Today I received my Monster (I was expecting it next Monday). Shipped from Speedyfeet on Sunday to California. Can't beat those delivery times. So you can see me with my Monster and 1300wh ACM that I got 3 days ago. Two new wheels within a few days - I'm not sure what to do Before I continue with my Monster ride observations I feel that I need to make this statement: I hereby formally bow down to the Gotway Gods Ian (Speedyfeet) had pre-charged the Monster so when I took it out of the box (and gave myself a small hernia in the process) I had an 80% charge. That meant only one thing - an immediate test ride. I used my existing old Gotway app to configure it: 1st & 2nd alarms off and tilt-back off. It's nice that I've been able to use my original Gotway app to configure all of these wheels. And the Wheellog app (and Pebble watch connection) work perfectly with these new wheels. When I climbed aboard (an apt description) and started riding I thought to myself, "what have I gotten myself into"? This thing is a beast and when you first start, it feels totally unwieldy. Turning as you do with a normal wheel does nothing - it keeps going straight. Turning the Monster is all about weigh shifting and hips to shoulders. I will say that once you get use to this way of turning it is a piece of cake. I can literally turn with the same agility as my ACM, but the body movements are very different. The problem can be that as you're riding and suddenly need to turn you apply your normal turning techniques and the Monster just ignores you So after a 25 mile ride today my knees and lower legs are hurting because I kept falling back into my old ways. Clearly this will improve. But I did ride 25 miles today. After about an hour everything was really clicking and it no longer felt unwieldy. I'm probably going to run out of superlatives trying to describe my riding today. I rode a river trail that I enjoy, a park with lots of dirt/sand trails, and sidewalks in town. The Monster eats anything in its way. I'm serious. I rode over bumps, thick mud, sand, whatever. It just takes it and doesn't toss you around. Deep ruts in the trails? - the Monster laughed at them. Hitting some of them in my ACM would have thrown me from the wheel. I like to carve when I ride and that was very enjoyable with the Monster. Weaving in and out of obstacles on the sidewalks was easy. I climbed a couple of very steep inclines and there was no problem. Feels like my MSuper - you have to really lean into it and have faith that it's not going to dump you. My ACM on the other hand climbs inclines much easier. Acceleration and braking feels like the MSuper, but a tad more sluggish. Today I had one hard brake that I had to apply to avoid missing my intended turn. I managed the brake and turn successfully but it was a near miss. I think it's best to plan your brakes well ahead of time with this wheel I must say that I think the Monster has the potential to be a dangerous wheel . Why? Speed. Prior to the Monster I felt that I had the fastest wheels available (ACM and MSuper). I typically ride my ACM between 17 and 20 mph, sometimes going up to 22 for short periods. Feels very fast. The Monster? It laughs at 20. Seriously! For half my ride today I would catch myself looking at my watch (Pebble) to see that I was going 22mph! For awhile I was going 25mph and here's the thing; it didn't feel dangerously fast. 25! I was feeling very comfortable going 22mph whereas on the ACM it feels like you're pushing it. The Monster is so stable and has so much reserve power that it's a pure joy to ride fast. I was riding 20mph on some trails! I never heard the 3rd alarm today. So I have to say if you love going fast and eating up any road or trail in your way you will love the Monster. I think it's the most amazing wheel ever produced. I'm very serious. No, I wouldn't recommend it as your only wheel because lets face it, it's a beast. But in the context of trail & street riding it's amazingly fun. I can't wait to take it up into the mountains this weekend. I'll be posting a video review and ride video sometime in the next week.
  14. 29 points
    It's with sad news that I'm here to say that my brand new (now scratched to hell) MSuper V3s+ is afflicted with the now infamous Gotway oscillation syndrome. I had just picked it up personally from @Jason McNeil a couple of days ago while he was out in California inspecting his latest delivery from Gotway. He's a great guy to hang with btw, and we (Jason, myself, and @Sven) had a fun little ride in some local hills. Andy, you need to post that video you made! Of course I tested mine a day ago by riding (slowly - which is key to remember) over various bumps, curbs, etc. No problems. Yeah! But this morning was my first opportunity to take it for a serious ride. I setup my camera and filmed a short mini-review introduction to my new MSuper (God I wanted to love this wheel) and then took it out on the road. As you'll see in the video below, about 3 minutes into the ride I'm on a sidewalk, probably not going faster than 15mph. I travel across a street and up on to the sidewalk, and that transition was enough to cause it to instantly oscillate and throw me off the wheel. My take away is that the wheel has to be traveling at a fairly good clip for this to happen. But as you can see, I was not exactly traveling at an extreme speed. Jason is screwed with his recent shipment, and I must say anyone who has received a unit within the last month or so is risking their skin if riding the wheel faster than 10mph. Even though I say in the video that I'm probably going to ride it, I'm not. As I rode home I couldn't make myself go faster than 10mph for fear of the oscillation. There is zero warning. There's absolutely no fun riding a wheel under those conditions. I have no clue how Gotway is going to prove any recent wheel delivery is without the problem. They clearly lied to Jason regarding his shipment, and he must be one of their best dealers. When I get a new control board (I assume), how will I know Gotway did anything. Who wants to gear up and ride 15 - 20 mph into a bump to test it? I'm sure I'll be more open to the idea after a few days, but not now. My left wrist and hand is getting worse as I type this Well guys, I only have my Monster and KS14C to ride now, and summer months are upon us. What a bummer. Enjoy the video The thumbnail is 1 second before the crash - ouch.
  15. 29 points
    Hi Everyone, here is my submission for the contest. My Dad has even let me have my own profile to enter the movie Hope you like it.
  16. 29 points
    I guess this falls under the "Impressions" part of R&I. My daughter drew a short comic to summarise the EUC basics, publishing it below with her permission. In case you can't tell, she adores penguins... (Full res PNG with transparent background.)
  17. 28 points
    This is by no means anything "official", or complete, and everyone's welcome to chime in to propose new/missing/alternative terms and/or corrections. The point is to explain and make the terms less ambiguous and to help with understanding especially some of the more technical topics and discussions here. The usual term used for the electric unicycles has usually been an "EUC" (for Electric UniCycle). John Eucist has explained the reasons for using this term pretty well here: http://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/119-why-am-i-calling-electric-unicycle-euc-for-short/ , so I don't see the need in repeating. More informally, most people refer to them as "wheels" (wheel in singular form). EUC Parts At simplified level, you could say an EUC typically has four parts: Tire/pedal assembly with a motor in the hub, a mainboard, a battery or batteries and the shell keeping everything together. Battery Battery is the part of the unicycle that stores the energy to move the motor and power the electronics. Most wheels use a battery pack made of Lithium Ion -cells (of which there are many different chemistries, brands and models), typically 16 (around 48-67V empty/full) or 20 (60-84V) cells in series to get the high voltage required to drive the motor, and one or more of these packs to gain high capacity. The total capacity of the battery packs are usually shown as Watthours (Wh), and on average it seems 10-20Wh are needed per kilometer ridden, although this may vary between different EUCs, riders and riding conditions. EUCs with higher battery capacity (usually done by adding more 16/20-cell series in parallel and/or using higher capacity cells) don't only go for longer on single charge, but they usually keep their torque high longer even when the battery has depleted more. BMS (Battery Management System) This is a printed circuit board (PCB) usually located inside one or more battery packs (although in some cases, like at least some IPS models, it can also be integrated directly into the mainboard). The BMS takes care of controlling battery charging, cell balancing, and has some protections (which can sometimes be even dangerous 2017 update: dangerous BMS overdischarge protection problems seem to be a thing of the past), like overdischarge- (low voltage/undervoltage), overcurrent-, short circuit-, and overcharge-protections. Firmware Firmware is the piece of program in the mainboard that has all the logics for the wheel: alarms, speed limits, tilt-back, motor driving logics, balancing the wheel, communicating with a possible mobile phone app over Bluetooth or such, different types of monitoring and alarms (overspeed, overheat, low battery, over-tilt...) etc Hall-sensor Hall-sensors are sensors that can detect a magnetic field. There are such sensors inside the motor that are used to detect the position and RPM of the motor. The mainboard logics need this information to drive the motor. Also the electrical current sensing of the mainboard is commonly done with a chip based on the hall-effect, which is also needed for certain types of motor driving algorithms like Field-Oriented Control and to detect situations where the power output is nearing the limits Mainboard This is the "heart" of the electric unicycle, typically a single printed circuit board (PCB) inside the unicycle, although sometimes there may be more than one board (for example, Firewheels have two boards, the secondary PCB controls things like lights and battery display). Mainboard has things like the one or more MCUs (MicroController Unit, the "brains" of the wheel), power feed for the motor, step-down switching-mode power supply for other electronics, combined gyroscope/acceleration sensor (often called IMU, Inertial Measurement Unit, or MPU, Motion Processing Unit) for balancing and usually something like a Bluetooth-chip for app-support, LED control, possible display control etc. Motor Motor is the thing that moves the EUC. Typically these are 3-phase BLDC/PMSM (Brushless Direct Current / Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor) outrunner hub-motors with direct drive (with the exception of some geared EUCs, like certain older Rockwheels, secong gen Gotway M10's) that is placed in the center of the rim of the tire. Motors have rated and peak power ("wattage"), and the general rule of thumb is "bigger is better". Bigger wattage does not necessarily mean more speed (although that's possible too), as the different motors can be built with different things in mind (speed vs. torque), and there may be maximum speed limitations in the firmware, but higher powered motor can usually keep you balanced in more extreme situations, like going over a bump or a pothole at higher speed. Especially heavy riders should look for high powered (800+W rated?) motors. 2019: Probably more like 2000W = 2kW? Pedal Pedal is the part on top of which you place your feet when riding. Typically made of aluminum or steel, there are various shapes and sizes (unfortunately commonly a bit too small for western feet), and they affect the riding comfort of the wheel substantially (especially on longer trips). Also the pedal clearance (height from ground) plays a role in riding, as low clearance can cause the pedal to hit the ground while leaning. The part connecting the pedal to the motor is commonly called Pedal arm, although other names have also been used. Shell Shell or shells are the plastic covers within which the other parts (mainboard, batteries, tire/motor-assembly...) are enclosed. Older wheels used to have a single shell made from two parts, more modern wheels commonly have 4 parts to the shell, the "inner shell" that usually only covers the motor and to the outside of which the batteries and mainboard etc are connected, and separate "outer shells" that protect the electronics and the batteries. The difference is that the ones with separate inner and outer shells are much easier to work with if having to do repairs or such and have better ingress protection (preventing moisture/water from entering the electronics / batteries). Strap Strap is a piece of ribbon that usually comes with the wheel. The point is to attach the strap to the wheel handle (or similar), so you can prevent the wheel from falling over or getting away from you when dismounting during practice. Most people stop using this after initial learning, although some keep using it, as it can prevent the wheel from keeping rolling on by itself in case of a dismount. 2019: Not that common nowadays, nobody mentions straps anymore. Tire Tire (or is it tyre?) usually refers to the outermost rubber part of the tire, but can sometimes be also used to mean the inner tube ("inner tire"). Probably pretty much everyone knows what these are, so not that much point in explaining further... EUC "tech-talk" Cut-off or cut-out There are actually (at least) two types of cut-offs that can occur with an EUC: the first is what I've called "mainboard induced cut-off" or sometimes I've also used the term "[motor] shutdown" or "[high/max]-speed cut-out", and the second is the BMS cut-off. (2017 notice: most wheels nowadays don't seem to no longer cut the power at high speed, "overlean"/"overpowering" near the top speeds or board failure is more common cause of such falls) Mainboard induced/motor shutdown/high-speed cut-out/max speed cut-out: In this type of cut-off, it seems that the mainboard firmware decides to cut the power to the motor for some reason (at least overspeed/too much current passing through the board or the wheel has tilted more than 45 degrees). When the mainboard does the cut off, the wheel doesn't usually totally power down, but keeps playing a warning sound or something to tell the user that the wheel must be reset before it can be ridden again. I have also thought that this might ALSO be BMS-related, if it's the overcurrent/short circuit protection of the BMS triggering, as those don't seem to latch, but release automatically? So the entire wheel would turn off for a split second... (2017 notice: this seems to be pretty much a thing of the past, at least in the mainstream big-name wheels, like KingSong, Inmotion, Gotway, Ninebot...) BMS Cut-off is caused by the overdischarge (undervoltage) protection circuitry in the battery BMS triggering, and usually cuts ALL power to the wheel immediately. This can be particularly dangerous, as it can occur very unexpectedly, causing the rider to fall almost every time. Typically the protection is latched, so if your wheel shuts off and doesn't turn back on until you've plugged it in charger, it was probably because the overdischarge protection had triggered. (2017 EDIT: Link to BMS-shunting thread removed, not necessary anymore) Reset Resetting a wheel means turning it off and back on. Many wheels require you to do this, once the motor shutdown has triggered, although some automatically reset when turned back upright after a fall. RPM (Rounds per minute) RPM is a measure of the turning speed of the motor, how many total rounds (turns) the motor does per minute. Shunt Shunting a wheel means bypassing the discharge-side protection circuits in the battery BMS to prevent the BMS cut-off. Not needed in wheels made after something like late 2015/early 2016? MOSFET "Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor" , a type of power transistor used in the mainboard (usually in a group of 6 or 12) that's responsible of driving the motor by controlling current flow in the 3 phases. Commonly referred to when speaking of the technical details of mainboards, or when someone has a burned board (one of the most common reasons of failed board is burned MOSFETs). EUC Riding Idling Idling is the term for staying pretty much in place by moving the EUC back and forth. This is taxing for the motor (constantly changing direction) and eats up your battery fast, but can be useful for example to wait for a traffic light to change or such. Leaning Leaning refers to using your body to move your center of gravity and control the EUC. You lean forwards and backwards to accelerate/decelerate or change direction. To turn the EUC, you usually lean to the direction you want to turn to (left or right), somewhat similarly as with motorcycles or bikes at faster speeds, although you can also use your hips to "swivel" around for tight in-place turns, at least in slow speeds. Out-lean or overlean Out-lean / overlean is a term used to refer to a situation where the rider leans (usually) forwards so much that the wheel cannot keep him/her balanced anymore (not enough torque), and usually ends up with the rider dismounting (or falling). Out-leaning usually occurs near the top speeds or in uphills, where the wheel motor cannot keep producing enough torque to keep the wheel upright as the rider keeps leaning forward. Usually it occurs only after the full tilt-back (but not always, especially when accelerating fast, the wheel may not have enough torque to tilt-back), so most people shouldn't be able to do it accidentally, unless it's due to low battery (if the tilt-back is based on speed). Overpower Overpowering a wheel refers to similar situation as with out-lean and is often used as a synonym, but seems to be more commonly used to describe a situation where the wheel cannot keep you balanced on level ground, for example when hitting a pothole that causes the wheel to tilt too much to forward or simply out-leaning. Overspeed "Overspeed" used to mean the speed where the mainboard cuts the power to the motor. This was (at least mostly) with older, pre-2016 wheels. Nowadays (November 2017) most wheels will let you push it all the way to the end, but once you hit the max speed (which is at least somewhat dependent on the battery charge state), the voltage difference between the battery and the motor back-EMF (voltage induced by the turning motor) is too low to cause enough current and thus torque, and the rider ends up overleaning the wheel. Power braking This is a pretty "unofficial" term, used to mean the type of braking where you push the wheel in front of you with your legs while simultaneously leaning back and pushing the pedals down to brake as fast as possible. Requires some practice, but not that difficult, and a useful skill when you need to stop "on a dime". Be warned though, on occasion this has led to the mainboard burning the mosfets, although it's not common, especially in the higher end power-wheels anymore. Tilt-back Tilt-back is a safety measure, where the wheel starts to tilt the pedals backwards at higher speeds to warn and prevent the rider from leaning more forwards. While it is possible to lean more and try to get more speed, it might not be wise, as you can overpower the wheel. Most wheels have this (many wheels let the user adjust the tilt-back speeds with app), but some older ones don't have it at all (for example older Gotways and Firewheel).
  18. 28 points
    It’s a great honor to announce that we have Ulf Scheidsteger joined our King Song team, he will be King Song Media representative on social media, mainly electric unicylce forum and our King Song official facebook group. Ulf Scheidsteger is knowledgeable about technical issues and knows well about king song wheel specs. He will follow general questions forum members have in his spare time. All the feedback he collected , will be reported to us for analyzing.
  19. 28 points
    Sooo @cloudust beat me to the punch in posting my initial impressions YouTube vid on the forums here.... the Ninebot Z thirst is real! ? LOL First, as much as I always dole praise on @Jason McNeil of eWheels.com, I must do so again: Thank God we have you in the US as our local PEV dealer and thank you for so graciously agreeing to ship this demo Ninebot Z unit on a 4-city US tour to your loyal fan customer base. Call me biased, yes, but I cannot help it: I've been screwed over by enough Joe Schmo middle man EUC sellers and cold-shoulder-go-to-your-distributor EUC co's to know not to take YOU for granted (and for those who don't know, one of my long-drawn ordeals is what led me to Jason in the first place, helping me on a wheel issue where the wheel was never purchased from Jason/eWheels). I will post as much nuanced content as I can on the Z to this thread throughout the week we have the Z here in NYC, complete with my incoherent ramblings and self-manufactured terminologies! (not joking, they really could be incoherent, I'm running on 2-3 hours sleep, neglecting my day job as we speak, each day we have this wheel... ?) Catching everyone up to speed, I'm on Day 3 (approx. 50 miles in) of extensive daily city riding with the eWheels.com demo Z10 (trying to shake off the initial euphoria, as is the case with all new wheels). And please remember to keep in mind, these are my rider biases (if you don't know of me or can't read my signature on mobile): I ❤️ big & wide wheels. Bigger & wider the better! (err, maybe not as big as that DIY 26" KS18 of past cult fame) That said, I've owned (not simply tested) almost every size, shape, and major manufacturer EUC model now (see my sig), and that's on purpose, because you'll never truly know a wheel without putting in the mileage, all models are slightly-to-drastically different. I ride daily, rain or shine. My only walking comes in the form of running 3-10 miles a day. I'm not a hill or offroad guy. I live in the capitol of Flatland City, Urban America, New York fudgin' City. Besides, @Marty Backe does a fantastic job with that on his socials. You might have read, but I have weird theories on riding on every nook and cranny of my pedals with my feet (wide, offset, edges, tip-toes) or my butt (seated, yeah!) except the standard set-it-and-forget-it parallel 11's foot positioning. I want every bit of leverage and angle of bending / carving I can get out of every wheel I ride dammit! (I also realize this is not the case with most riders on this forum.) I am not the riskiest of risk-taking risky top speed EUC riders. Yes, I do occasionally hit 30mph maxes, but the stars and the moons have to align. My average speed in this city carving stop-and-go car traffic is ~26mph, 28-30mph for passing car speed. I am 175 lbs rider weight (working on getting that back to 165 lbs *smh), so probably just a smidge under 190 lbs with backpack weight. Now,.... Let's tackle some of the heavy-hitters right off the bat, shall we? Because that's really what everyone's itching to [somewhat] resolve/inform, right? (again, all my own opinions, feel free to agree with nothing I say because I have no clue what I'm talking about ??) ===================================== PART I The Main Attraction: 4.1" Wide 18" Ninebot-branded CST Tubeless Tire Shock Absorbing? Unfortunately, not as I would have hoped ?, especially being in a pothole-infested city like NYC. It's not terrible though, and being super wide at 4.1", as long as you're not hitting the kind of bumps that make you catch small air, the overall massive dense weight of the Z10 (more on that later) will plant you to the ground in a very stable manor. Any hint of air you catch though, is met with a very solid thud (no bounce back) that if you don't cushion with your knees can reverberate up your being. Letting out some of the air did help, and as we test ride more, I will possibly try deflating a bit more to see if this gains more absorption/bounce (no, I did not measure PSI, but it felt very much like the max rated 32 or higher out of the box). My theory: the culprit here is the tire composition (yes, those who know me, know I champion this subject). Being tubeless with thick consistency (not sure how much ratio of rubber there is in there), I think it's very reminiscent of how e-kick scooter folk hate solid rubber tires for the same lack of absorption you usually get with a pneumatic air tire, especially in the absence of proper suspension. Maneuverability? This is always tricky, because my comfort with turning / carving bigger wheels is not necessarily your comfort with turning / carving bigger wheels (if you even want to take an effort to [learn] doing so). As with all bigger diameter wheels in the 18"+ tire category, the common refrain is "use more upper body to turn". Well, considering the Z10 sports now a 4.1" wide, at least ~50% wider than most EUC tires made today (Even the 2.75" wide 22" Monster tire!), you might need more than just the usual increased upper body / hip twists to achieve deep carves (obviously, body dimension/physics dependent). For me, my feet are constantly moving and pivoting, sometimes hanging off the pedal at non-traditional angles, so I can achieve deep carves on the Z quite satisfactorily (yes, albeit with more body movement). But I can see how set-it-and-forget-it, close to the shell, parallel 11 feet, "I want the wheel to turn by itself" guys will say it's less maneuverable than smaller diameter wheels. The dense 55 lb wheel weight & short stubby OG Ninebot pedals also compound this I suspect. Stability? This is where the Z10 surprised me, and in a good way, the best way! (though we heard brief early reports of this quality in passing) Quite logically, the Z10 having a wider tire, though being slightly curved and not flat (like the OneWheel tire or a car tire) gives you a wider base, which equals more stability and more distance traveled falling one direction before rider-correcting to the opposite direction. Combined with the greater mass density, which contributes to a slower initial momentum, you can really (with proper technique) control this wheel at slower speeds to the point of crawling next to pedestrians, and switching pivot axis really quickly. While in motion, the wide combined with the mass equates into hugging the road over small bumps better, only catching air for the more jagged and bigger divots (though again, the dense rubber tire composition does not absorb shocks). Think of a boulder chasing Indiana Jones or something similar (am I dating myself? Lol) Acceleration / Braking Acceleration With the Z10, Ninebot has re-introduced hardness pedal sensitivity settings again from the One 16" series days ( @Tishawn Fahie had reminded me that they had removed this for the 14" S2/S1/A1 series for some unknown reason). This time, the settings are only from 0 to 4 (as opposed to I think the 16" series was 0-10), with 0 again being the hardest response. Unfortunately, this is not the top tier stiffness/hardness of a 0-setting 16" One or 14" S2, but I would equate the 0-setting Z10 to around slightly less hard a response than a sport-mode Gotway Tesla, and comparable or slightly harder than my Ride-Mode KS18S (was that the name of the hardest KS setting? haven't opened up my crappy KS app in ages Lol - still don't want to!). However, due to the mass, to really initiate from-rest acceleration, especially uphill, you need to swing more weight force into the Z10 pedals, almost reminiscent to the way you need to really swing the sport-mode MSuperV3 pedals to initiate acceleration from rest (albeit, with more resistance to the Z, not in that glidy, floaty, effortless Gotway thing the MSuperV3 & Monster motor do). In other words, the power and acceleration in the ballpark of other 2kW nominal motor models IS there (just below the 84V Gotways), but you have to work / lean for it more. Also, interestingly, though it takes time for me to gain trust with any new wheel, so far I was not able to overcurrent/overcharge (ie. fast acceleration uphill) the Z10, whereas I was able to do so on the V10F. Braking I think the Z10 is the first EUC where you can specifically select the braking behavior, called "Assisted-braking" in the app (see my Z10 Initial Impressions YouTube below). It's just a toggle between enabled and disabled. When enabled, leaning back to brake will have little tension, more swing. I guess this supposedly "assists" your braking, but I was never a fan of that feel (see MSuperV3, reportedly SoloWheel does/did this too), so I've been constantly toggling that feature off (the demo Z10 keeps forgetting just this one particular setting for some reason; they might have fixed this in the updated FW that the NB app keeps prompting me to update too, but I have bad memories of Ninebot One 16" Firmware-gate: Faceplanting of the Ninebots a couple(?) of years back, so we'll just keep ignoring that FW prompt, thank you very much!). So with the braking 'assist' turned off, braking is sufficiently hard IMHO, and every NYC rider who's been on the Z10 so far has agreed with me, FWIW. Heaviness I brought this up at the end of my Z10 Initial Impressions vid, but the Z10 has to be (might be wrong) the heaviest 18" EUC at ~55 lbs, and not packing a very efficient battery-to-wheel weight-ratio, as my KS18S with an extra 680Wh more battery is 4 lbs lighter. This heaviness factor is both a minus (obvious lifting implications) and plus (the aforementioned grounded/planted-ness for bumps) IMHO. Walk-up apartment residents and high heighted car trunk owners beware! Not really sure why this is, but my guess is the tubeless tire & motor weight (could be wrong). Alright, gonna part-by-part more impressions/observations + video content progressively on this thread, as this short analysis got dense real quick! If you stuck by this long, your Ninebot Z thirst is strong!
  20. 28 points
    Since receiving the V10F about two weeks ago, I've put on 200km distance on the machine & have to confess I simply love it! One of the first things an experienced Rider will probably notice, is that between the 2.5" wide tire & high pedal height of 17.2cm (6.7"), it has the feel, & many of the ride qualities, of a 18" wheel. For additional control, hugging the sides of the Wheel with your calves feels very comfortable, probably the best ergonomics of any other Wheel. Inmotion have really pulled out all the stops, listening to their Distributors & Customers in trying to make the V10 the best possible 16" Wheel that would satisfy the demands for majority of their Customers. For years, Riders have been crying out for larger pedals, a brighter headlight, cut-off switch, travel handle, speakers (well maybe not everyone for speakers), all of these features have been crammed into a body that is only a couple cm taller than the previous generation V8. I'm inclined to believe that given the constraints of the volume that the V10 occupies, it's difficult to see, at least without some major breakthrough in battery energy density technology, or commercial room-temperature superconductors, how an Electric Unicycle can be dramatically improved based on materials that are available to Engineers today. What There is to Like About the V10F: Power: based on my limited ride time, the 2KW motor has that same effortless glide quality as the GW Tesla/ACMv2, but you do get a couple degrees of tilt-back as you approach around 35kph speed as if to remind you of your mortality. If you push beyond this, at 40kph there's a klaxon warning before the tilt-back gets more aggressive. On low battery, 40%, the speed is reduced to 35kph, haven't run it down below this yet. Tire size: one of the first things I did on taking possession of the V10F, was to take it on a gravel track. As you can see from the picture, there's plenty of clearance at the lip of the shell, but within 20 minutes, a small piece of gravel did become lodged between the shell & motor; a small stick did the job to remove it & I was back on my way within minutes. To take full advantage of the wide tire, I'd recommend riding at a lower pressure than you would do on a 2.125", it becomes much more forgiving, stable & enjoyable. Pedals Size & Height: the total surface area is 30% larger than those on the V5/V8, giving more foot support & as @houseofjob had pointed out, these are the largest pedals of any other Wheel right now! There's mixed thoughts about the rubber surface material. I've ridden it quite extensively in wet conditions, whatever synthetic compound they used still provides excellent friction in the wet, hadn't found slipperiness to be a problem. Slim Profile: another unique property of Inmotion's Electric Unicycle is the location of the battery pack in relation to the motor. On all other Wheels that I can think of (with the exceptional of the IPS i5) the batteries are installed on either side of the motor; this necessarily makes other high capacity Wheels fatter than Inmotion's design. But isn't just about the width, the location of the battery has a direct impact on stability as well. As another reviewer of the prototype has recognized, the V10F feels a much stable than other Wheels I have used. My theory is that the narrower distribution of weight will be channeled directly down to the supporting tire, which will probably mean less of the wobble effect. Super-bright Headlight: it's the best headlight that I've seen fitted on a Wheel; has a downward direction to it, so doesn't blind oncoming cyclists from afar. The Chameleon: whirling animated LEDs might not be everyone's cup of tea, for drawing attention to oneself, but in Inmotion's quest for technical superiority, they've taken the stand ring & multiplied it by three, as it can be easily disabled, what's there not to like about this! Beauty Contest Winner?: there's no denying the power that the aesthetic quality plays in a Buyer's psychology when making a high-valued purchasing choice, especially first-time owners. Minor Annoyances & Issues on the Prototype V10F : Amount of Travel in the Handle: for me, this is the single most significant technical problem on the V10, there's way too much lose movement in the handle. Although it's identical to the V5, because the V10F is almost double the weight, when you're handling it on surfaces like carpet, it's hard to have firm control of the Wheel's direction. Technique of Wheeling it backwards helps, but Inmotion need to fix this for mass production, a couple washers might do the trick, haven't had a chance to test this out. Default Speaker Volume too Loud: because the speakers are so powerful, it doesn't appear that Inmotion adjusted the configuration to account for the more powerful speakers. At least on the prototype, the alerts are piercingly loud. You can use the previous version of the App to reduce the volume of these alerts. Default Pedal Pitch Angle: although the App represents pedal angle as being 0°, you can see a slight backwards inclination, this is evidenced when the Wheel is placed against the side of wall you get a significant amount of motor whine. In the App you can readjust this, found the sweet spot to be 3° forward. Width of the Self-Standing Support Struts: the self-standing supports on the V8 were a nice extra touch, you have this too on the V10, but the dimension have not been scaled for the larger Wheel. It is not yet certain if this is improved on the production shell mold. Side Padding Adhesive: given assurances that this has been changed on the production Wheels, but in my prototype, the pads kept falling off, had to resort to gluing them permanently in place. Charging Port Flap too Tight: I found that if the flap is fully closed, it can be difficult to pry it open without the use of a tool, the quality is really great, better than previous V5/V8 designs, but the practicality of opening it can be a challenge. Difficult to Fold Pedal Down with Foot: If you loosen the small tightness screw it's easier to undertake, but because of both the curvature of the pedal edge & where the shell meets the pedal, it's not easy to get a foothold to push the pedal down from the upright position. Getting a grip around the handle is manageable. Even though it's compact, at touch above 20kg, it's heavy & feels heavy too! If you're planning on carrying this up a couple flights of stairs during your morning commute, you'll need train up to be in a fit state to carry it. You can see how bright even the rear brakelight is. There's a high-def speaker fitted front & back (two for stereo). Notice the small arch support, standing upright on anything but perfectly flat surface is going to be unstable. Renders always look gorgeous!
  21. 28 points
    Hello All, It's been awhile since i've been on here but thought why not share my thoughts on this wheel, I was lucky to get. It's a prototype that was sent to me by Gotway America to keep. I decided to share my experiences with everyone. www.Gotwayamerica.com I also want to thank @houseofjob for helping me put this video together! I cant give an review since I just got it and want to spend time with it. Here are some specs. Motor - 1900watt Battery - (this model) 1020wh Built in Trolley - yes Light Belt - yes (reminds me of the ninebot days) Weight - 42.8 lbs Brighter head light compared to previous models. 4 pin charger - same as the Msuper V3s+ 84v Max speed so far - 30mph! Built in dual fan- silent could barely hear it. I feel like this wheel have some type of shock absorption.. Not sure how to describe it but it goes over cracks and bumps with easy. Very comfortable to ride although when trying to ride on 1 leg i'm experiencing a slight pain on my shin. Not sure if its something I have to get use to or is it because of the thin padding that was placed there. I created a video that should help with how it looks and test rides. Hope you guys like it. Also motherboard is now placed on the top of the wheel instead of the usual side next to the batterie. Cables seems to look well connected here are some pics. Again i hope this helps.
  22. 28 points
    So I've been back from CES in Las Vegas for a week now and I think I'm now ready to give my report back on how it all went at least on the EUCs side of things. Last year was my first time ever to go to CES and this year I had a mission to really check out every EUCs that was here and any other cool tech. The EUCs companies that were at this years CES were Kingsong, Ninebot, Airwheel, Fastwheel, F-wheel, and a few no-name brands. Other personal transport companies included a few electric scooters, electric bikes, and literally around 100 "hoverboard" companies/distributors. This is going to be a long post so I'll try to section this out the best I can. If you want a TL;DR version, scroll all the way down for my short CES EUC summary video. To start off, I was very excited to be able to meet this guy! If you don't know, that is Alton Brown, Food Network celebrity. Bringing my EUCs to CES So I planned on bringing my Kingsong 14C and Gotway Msuper to CES. The kingsong I brought because I needed my firmware to be updated/fixed and the Gotway just as a backup. I didn't want to risk being rejected at the airport so I just shipped my wheels using uship.com for the first time and I must say I recommend them over traditional shipping methods for being cheaper and more flexible. It is basically the "ebay" for shipping and is ideal for when you have to ship any unusual/akward items. My shipment guy arrived on Sunday morning and had my wheels in Vegas by Monday night right when my flight arrived in Vegas. I was able to carry my Kingsong on the plane ride back home though which I talked about in another thread. But I was able to ride up and down the strip at night with no problems at all either from pedestrians or police. I was even able to comfortably navigate the escalators. But one of the main reasons for having my wheels at CES was logistical..... Parking near/at the convention is very limited and expensive. So I parked my friend's car in one of the free parking lots on the strip and then just rode the EUC to CES. I then locked up my EUC to a bike rack like this: It worked out like a charm. And even going in between the LVCC and the Sands Expo took the same amount of time as the shuttle buses did since I talked to a guy as he was getting on the bus and then saw him again when he got off the bus at the Sands. KINGSONG I first saw kingsong on the first day since I wanted them to flash updated firmware on my kingsong 14C. Met Tina and the rest of the gang who were very nice and accommodating. They had the new KS-14C Mark III along with the 16 inch and 18 inch model. I liked the updated design of the 14C with the integrated controls and the rubber pedals. Riding it felt more or less the same as my version. The 16 inch model I didn't think would feel good because of its protruding leg pads but it felt surprisingly very good. The pads were more softer and more comfortable than ninebot's pads and the power and responsiveness felt strong and tight. I wish I was able to take it outside to really test the speed and acceleration though. The integrated handle trolley is a very nice feature although I am not sure how strong the mechanism is when its retracted in since it has to support nearly 30 pounds. The bluetooth speaker sounded nice and just as loud if not louder than the one in the 14C. It also comes with extra noises to make within the app like a car horn. And also has the front headlight, rear tail/brake light, and colorful ninebot-like side ring lights. Taking all of that together, I would say the Kingsong 16 inch wheel is the most "complete" wheel with all of the features packed into it along with a 30 kph top speed, 680 Wh battery, and 800W motor. Even with all of that, the one I rode was not the final production version.... that should be coming out in February with improved cooling and updated firmware. The 18 inch beast was just that.... a beast. I thought my Gotway Msuper was large, the kingsong 18 is like an EUC for Shaquille O'Neal... who by the way did stop by the Kingsong booth and tried to ride the 18 inch wheel. Maneuverability is very limited as you would expect but I guess that's not the point of this wheel. It's an all out cruiser which is even more evident by the tall design which allows for a nice cushion attachment so you can sit down. Also has bluetooth speaker and front and rear lights which by the way dynamically change depending on which direction you are riding. It's a nice touch that I hadn't heard about before. NINEBOT/SEGWAY Ninebot sucked. Well.... not really.... more like just much more stricter on not letting anybody except for celebrities like Shaq ride their products. I wanted to try out their ninebot P but apparently their "P" model on display was actually an E+ with just the P shell. BMX rider Adam Kun and another ninebot/segway employee were the only ones riding the E+ around on the little track. I actually did talk to Adam a little bit while I was holding my Gotway Msuper which he really seemed intrigued by. Seemed like a cool guy, Too bad I couldn't show him what I had in my EUC skills. FASTWHEEL It's funny for their wheel to be called fastwheel when their top speed is only 20 kmh. The design is boring and the power was weak (it almost completely cut off on me a few times as I was testing its acceleration). It is very light though which I guess has that going for it. This is definitely a beginners wheel but I would still get an Airwheel X8 (even X3) over this. There was a German media crew when I was at the fastwheel booth and they saw me riding on the fastwheel and had me do some shots for them. I even helped the female host on trying to ride the fasthwheel which she was able to get the hang of much faster than most people. I have no idea which specific German news it was but if any of you guys in Germany see a video feature an Asian kid riding on a fastwheel let me know! The Fastwheel "Ring".... this thing was a complete trip. Good looking design, light, but very impractical on everything else. The very thin design resulted in a platform that was also "thin" which meant riding it felt like balancing on a tightrope. Definitely needs some getting used to but it is harder than a regular EUC especially when I tried to make tight turns. It was also loud from the geared motor and shuttered/shook every time I came to a semi-hard stop. I have video of me riding it so you can see/hear for yourself. I don't see any practical use for this even for light short distances. You'd be better off getting a regular cheap EUC. FASTWHEEL C1....... not an EUC but an interesting transport device which some of you already have seen before. It's basically a weight scale with wheels and I must say after trying it out for 5 minutes I still could not get how to actually get it to go where I wanted it to go. I even asked the fastwheel rep to show me and even he didn't have full control of it. Plus its slow. It's stupider than all of the "hoverboards". Airwheel Airwheel had their entire unique product line to show off including the A3. The A3 was very easy to ride along with the S6. In fact, I think the S6 is perfect as an office chair replacement and even for disabled people in the workplace since its smaller and more nimble than a typical wheelchair. But I was there for EUCs and I tried out their Q series wheels which I've always wanted to feel how the double wheel EUC handles. And I must say it handles just as I expected..... its very easy and stable (enough to stand still on) but trying to turn especially sharp turns takes much more effort. Maybe its worth for a beginner to get a double wheel EUC but I still think everybody will be much better off just learning on a single wheeled EUC. One of the Airwheel girl reps noticed how good I was at riding and invited me over to China so we could compete. I thought that was cute. https://goo.gl/photos/cjxMyJpRNYSxcUwJ6 F-WHEEL Technically the company name is Shenzhen Counterbalance Technology Co., LTD. and not F-wheel. F-wheel just refers to their line of products. Dolphin One...... I've seen this EUC before and was intrigued by it since it has an integrated trolley handle, bluetooth speakers, head and tail lights, TWO! (2) USB charger ports, and even a damn kickstand integrated within the pedal. Too bad that this was uncomfortable to ride because it is so wide and there was no padding on the part of my leg that actually did touch the wheel. The pedal is made out of plastic..... its a hard stiff plastic since I didn't notice any bending but still I wonder how long those pedals can hold up over time. Power was lacking as this one also almost cut off when I tried to accelerate hard. https://goo.gl/photos/1X2VxcWTTR9Zwa7v8 Red-Rabbit.... This one I hadn't seen before. The pedals were actually metal which is good but uses the airwheel design with the gap in the middle... no good. Power was lacking on this one too. But two very unique things about this wheel... the head and tail light are actually removable USB dongles. So if you had to charge your phone you can just take one of these lights out to plug into the USB port. Also there are two hole slots on top to attach a bicycle-type seat on top although they didn't have this accessory on hand for me to try. Fwheel also had their own weight scale with wheels called the icarbot. Still just as stupid and unreliable as Fastwheels version. GYROOR First time hearing about this company but they had two unicycles to show off. Their T8 seems to be their main unicycle while the orange one is not even listed in their catalog.... so I have no idea what was going on with that guy. Both lacked the power I wanted and the orange one was really uncomftable to ride because it was so wide. And plus I hated the oval pedals. And also didn't help that both of their tires were low on air. Very underwhelming wheels. Hosowell Out of all of the wheels I rode, this one was the most uncomfortable. The bulging sides right where my legs make contact is such a stupid design. Plus the hard silicon does not offer any padding whatsoever. And power sucked on this one of course. However the rep there seemed grateful for my feedback on the wheel. Made me think that this wheel did not go through any field testing. GENERIC BRANDS This one was from xingtech but didn't actually have it at the show. I just saw the picture of it on the poster and thought it was a very unique design. This one was from what seemed like an Airwheel distributor since they were displaying all of Airwheel's products except with another branding on it. This next one was the most pathetic one of all. There was no air in the tire, the battery was low, and the rep did not want to help me out at all on trying to get the EUC up and running or even tell me much about it. Why even bring the damn thing in the first place? OTHER COOL THINGS So as far as non-EUC stuff, I tried out the Rocket Skates. Those were very hard to ride which I expected. Got to see the "Hoverboard"... and by that I mean these guys actually registered/trademarked the name "hoverboard". They own www.hoverboard.com..... and for $4000 they expect a lot of money to be thrown around. IO Hawk was the only American "hoverboard" rebranding company to be at CES. It was funny because they unveiled two new products that have more power, can go a little bit faster, and have crappy bluetooth speakers..... but wouldn't let me try it out because they just released it? Doesn't make any sense but whatever. They are still trying to sell these guys for over $1700. All of the stuff from IO hawk not letting me try out their new wheels is very funny because I ran into their original (and every other American rebranding company) supplier.... Chic-Smart. They let me try the exact brand new products just fine. And of course they are selling the exact same damn thing for less than $1000. But speaking of hoverboards, Lexus was showing off their real hoverboard...... CONCLUSION There were plenty of electric scooters, electric bikes, electric mopeds, electric motorcycles, and electric cars also Nothing really stood out for me other than the moped and motorcycle since you don't see much of those. Overall CES was a lot of fun. Hopefully next year we will have larger showing of EUCs not just from companies but also from enthusiasts and users. Until next year.....
  23. 27 points
    Way back in July last year, I started my own personal quest... A quest to find my next wheel! It was at great personal sacrifice that I tried every different wheel that I could find. Travelling to Los Angeles, Australia and Singapore I rode just about every model of all the major brands - and a special thanks to everyone I met up with, for both the wheels that I borrowed and the information that I was able to glean. And following this adventure, it has been a year of exciting new wheels from all of the big players! However after all of the potential, I have now (finally) confirmed my new wheel... Or rather it has been confirmed for me. Unfortunately, Mrs. TFU has advised me that I am not allowed get another wheel for myself, as I have spent all of my allowance starting up my own EUC business here in New Zealand! That's right... It has been so frustrating trying to get quality wheels in New Zealand that I have taken the leap and set it up so that they will be available for everyone! It hasn't been as easy as I had hoped, and there was a lot more paperwork than I would have liked, but everything is now in place, I am working with the manufacturers, and the first order is on the way! So, while I may not be allowed to get myself another wheel just now, I suppose I will be able to console myself with "demonstration wheels" from across the board. Other than the 2-3 Kiwis on the forum, it isn't too relevant to most of you - and it isn't quite live yet - but feel free to have a look if you're at a loose end... https://www.roll.nz/
  24. 26 points
    Too soon? Naw, it can never be too soon! Tattoo idea:
  25. 26 points
    With the introduction of the eScooter sharing craze, trade has surged from what was a very robust early year, to the current level, where it's difficult to satisfy demand & keep up with all the communications. I've opened up a new service center in Tucson, Arizona, with two very capable full-time employees (another one will be starting before the end of the month), who will be taking on many of the post-support functions I had been struggling to keep up with. My apologies to everyone who not received the usual level of service recently. As of today, the graphic below is the expected delivery timeline for the four new Wheels making their way out of the R&D departments, to the assembly line for mass production, & eventually to our Customers hands/feet: Gotway MSuper X: despite being the last manufacturer to release details of their new MSuper X, current guidance is that they'll be the fist company to start production of the new model in volume. We have an initial order of 50x of these, consisting of a mix of the 'batteryless' type (to use your existing ACM/MSuper packs from, priced at $1070), 1300Wh ($1600) & 1600Wh ($1900). Gotway have an excellent track record for getting their new products out-the-door in time, it's very probable these will be in the hands of preorder Customers in late June. King Song 18L: KS are running few weeks behind from their original estimates. From what I gather from my internal sources, they've finalized the product, with manufacturing set to commence over the next few weeks. KS has very kindly sent over an early release sample, expected to arrive this Tuesday. The 18L will be available in either the same black matte finish as the 16S & a glossy white. Inmotion V10F: Inmotion were the first out of the gate, but it's been difficult to obtain any meaningful supply of the V10F. Since putting down the deposit on March 15th, we've only been able to secure 30x of these until mid-June, then another 4 weeks for shipping. Ninebot Z Series: probably the most eagerly anticipated, Ninebot have not done a very job to get this Wheel out in time for the warmer weather. Based on our historical sales, I'd estimate that seasonality accounts for >60% of purchase factor; miss this narrow summer window & Customers will hop onto other Wheels. I'm embarrassed to admit that the Z10 has been sitting around for four days. Wanted to keep it looking pristine for a photo shoot with the V10F & 18L. Planning on doing a comparative review late next week,.
  26. 26 points
    Here's the promised video. I bought along a Drone, it made it 10' in the air, then immediately received a warning that all of Beijing, 6,490 sq miles is a no fly zone, so much for that plan! This from the country that gave us DJI.
  27. 26 points
    A little story some of you may find interesting... Yesterday I was taking a mid-afternoon ride along the beach on my KS14C. Beautiful Southern California day. As I was approaching the Hermosa Beach Pier I spotted two wheelers in the distance! Amazing. In the year that I've been involved with EUC's I've never come across a fellow rider, let alone two. As I approached from behind (they were traveling at a leisurely pace) I saw that that they were a young couple, in their early 20's I would say. He was riding an MCM and she was on a two wheeled Inmotion wheel. I smiled and waved as I rode past them. Needless to say they were really surprised. We stopped and chatted for a nice long time. The MCM was bought from Dion (@myfunwheel) and the Inmotion from @Jason McNeil (EWheels). All within the last couple of months. They had no knowledge of the forum and our local group rides that I organize. I think that I may have found a couple of new recruits. Hopefully they will join the forum. Now Brian, he was a little frustrated with his wheel because it would always tilt-back, and was about as fast as the Inmotion (i.e., not very fast). I took it for a little spin and sure enough, tilt-back must have been set to 10mph or less. I whipped out my phone and reconfigured his wheel (with his permission of course). Immediately he saw a huge change in his wheel. It felt like he just received an updated EUC. He looked very happy as he started zooming around (I turned tilt-back off). We rode together for a bit more before we went our separate ways. I'm hoping to see them during our meetup with @The Fat Unicyclist In hindsight I thought it must have been very unique from their perspective to have some guy pass them by on another wheel, stop, and reconfigure their wheel to make it perform much better, and then zoom away. I hope to have more encounters like this in the upcoming years
  28. 26 points
    It had to happen eventually. This morning I met Andy (@Sven) at Chino Hills State Park for an exploratory ride. Neither of us had ridden this area before. Andy had his Monster and I was riding my ACM today (it can climb any hill). The ride started nicely enough but we eventually started on the dirt and gravel trails. During on epically long very steep section Andy's Monster overheated with a resulting tilt-back, and within 5 seconds my ACM self-destructed. It was a long hike out In this video (thanks Andy for all the additional video footage) you can see the ride and where I crash and burn as the ACM gives out on me. Then, back in my workshop I open the ACM and show the carnage inside (massive amounts of melting connector housings and wires. Oh, and the control board is toast. Seeing the melted wires first hand (and my riding weight is 170 pounds) tells me that I will never again (until they make design changes) ride any of my Gotway wheels for extended (>15 seconds) periods up very steep hills. It's clear that the insulation isn't up to the task. Mind you, I'm talking very steep hills, where you are crawling up. Enjoy the video
  29. 26 points
    I love my Msuper V3. But: when things get wet and dirty, it has this nasty habit to throw everything up my back the road has to offer. Uhhh, I don't like mud slinging (even though it seems to become increasingly popular in politics). So, here is my solution: a 3D printed mudguard! Pick it from the print bed, peel off the brim, smack it on your Msuper and you're set to go! If you have access to a 3D printer (pretty much any one will do), download the model file from here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2083438, use up some 70 grams of ordinary PLA filament (< $2) and enjoy riding through Siberia in the fall. If not, google "3D Print Service" and find somebody, who prints it for you for less than $20. I put the file into public domain, so anybody can use it privat or commercially. I positively invite GotWay (happy New Year, @Linnea Lin Gotway & @Jane Mo! Does CNY come with New Year's resolutions, too?) and the nice distributors in this forum to use it. Give it your own branding if you like. And folks, please don't complain, if a distributor asks 50 bucks per piece - they have all those warranty obligations, can't exclude liability (like I do ) and still need to make a living... Here's my test ride today on Tempelhof airfield:
  30. 26 points
    I've been trying to get my head around how the motor control in EUCs (or in general with 3-phase brushless direct current motors, BLDC's) works, and been meaning to write this post for a good while (a "raw" -version of this has actually sat on my hard drive for months). @Henrik Olsen's question about the mosfets sparked me to finally get around to quickly read this through, make a few small additions and corrections and finally "publish" it here in the forums... So here goes, hopefully I corrected most of the typos etc, and it reads fairly easily, it's been written in parts every now and then, and sometimes I might jump from one topic to another a bit abruptly. I'm an amateur when it comes to this stuff, so I might use some "unorthodox" terminology and there could be many mistakes, factual errors and misunderstandings on my part, so I wish that the people who really know this stuff could chime in and correct if and when I've gone wrong. There are loads and loads of sources around the internet with more precise (and complex) articles and documents about how the motors work and how they're driven (or can be driven), but hopefully this could give a fairly good (albeit simplified) explanation of the basics of the motor drives. I'll try to keep it simple (most of the time) and skip over a lot of things like inductance, magnetic fields, different motor builds, mathematics, and most of the details on electronics as I'd likely just get those parts wrong anyway , and mostly concentrate on a basic overview of how the motor is being driven (or at least what I understand of it) Probably other people and sources can explain these parts better and in much more detail, if anyone's more interested. To start off, I'm not going to talk about 3-phase brushless motors, but a basic brushed DC motors ("1-phase") at first, as it's easier to understand the basics of the half-bridges through such an example. I've also seen (small) 3-phase motors sold with "1-phase" connections (just power + and -, and maybe PWM-input or not even that), where the controlling circuitry is inside the motor, so this could be such a case too. In a brushed motor, as the name suggests, there are parts called "brushes" that actually have mechanical connection to the coils in the rotor (the moving part of the motor). The coils actually act as electromagnets, and if you've played with magnets some time in your life, you know that opposite poles (north and south) attract each other and similar poles (north and north or south and south) repel each other. Simplified, as the brushes slide across conductors in the turning rotor, they cause current to flow through the winding coils ("energizing the coils"), which creates a magnetic field ("north"-pole in one and "south"-pole in the other) that keeps the motor turning in one direction, as the coils attract or repulse the (usually permanent) magnets in the stator (the stationary part of the motor). There are splits in the "ring" where the brushes touch, so the brushes will alternate between touching different "ends" of the coils of the motor, causing the magnetic field of the coils turn on and off and to change polarity (depending which brush they're touching or no brush at all) to keep the rotor moving as the poles of the permanent magnets attract / repel them. If the motor would need to turn in opposite direction, the polarities of the wires connected to the brushes could be changed to the other way around, ie. you'd change the + and - wires going into the motor to the opposite connections. No complex electronics are needed to drive the motor (at least in one direction), simply plugging it into a power source will do. The downside is that the mechanical brushing causes friction, noise and the brushes wear down, so they need to be changed every now and then when they wear out. But how we (slowly) get from here to BLDC-motor control is a fairly simple circuit called H-bridge (not a half-bridge, a H-bridge). Wikipedia explains an H-bridge simply as: A H bridge is an electronic circuit that enables a voltage to be applied across a load in either direction. These circuits are often used in robotics and other applications to allow DC motors to run forwards and backwards. A H-bridge could be built using just four (mechanical) switches: So when switches S1 and S4 are closed, the VCC (+) and GND (-) of the power source are connected across the motor, running it in one direction. Open those switches and close S2 and S3, and the polarities will be opposite, running the motor in the other direction. Making the upper ("high-side") and lower ("low-side") switch (be it a mosfet or BJT or whatever) on the same side of the H-bridge conduct at the same time (like S1 & S3 or S2 and S4 above) would cause what is called a "shoot-through", ie. the current won't flow through the motor, but instead directly passes through the switches, causing a short circuit (only resistance in the current path is that of the switch-elements and the wires). Now, using mechanical switches isn't that much more handy than just switching the wires in the opposite connections. That's why the H-bridge is usually built from transistors. Transistors can be controlled electronically and used as high-speed (non-mechanical) switches, so you basically use just two states for them: fully conducting (open) and not conducting (closed, although sometimes you could see these terms used vice versa, ie open = not conducting and closed = conducting, I'll just use terms "conducting" or "on" and "not conducting" or "off" to prevent any misunderstandings). Actually, transistors can be used in-between these two extreme states to make them conduct only partially, for things like (audio-)signal amplifying, but that's outside the scope of this, as only switching is needed for motor driving. Depending on the type of transistor, the conductivity over it can be controlled either by current or voltage. In the below animation, bipolar junction transistors (BJTs) are used for and H-bridge, with signals coming from INA and INB to switch the different transistors between conducting and not conducting. Our wheels use what are called MOSFETs (metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistor, a certain type of transistors) instead of BJTs. Mosfets are voltage-controlled, unlike bipolar junction transistors, which are current-controlled (but still need a certain amount of voltage to overcome the PN-junction... Yeah, I won't go into that here :P). There are more different types of transistors (J-Fets, IGBT's...), but I won't get to them here, as I only have some experience with BJTs and mosfets, and the wheels use mosfets anyway. So, now we could have electronical directional control over a (brushed) motor by turning on two transistor in opposite sides of the bridge, one on the high-side and one on the low-side. The next step is to control the speed of the motor (don't worry, I'll get to BLDC's and how this all relates to them in a while). A motor also acts as a generator, it actually produces it's own voltage when it's turning. This is called back-EMF (back electromotive force) or BEMF in some sources. When the motor is not turning, the back-EMF is 0 volts, and when it's running, it produces a voltage that raises linearly with the rotational speed of the motor. When the motor's turning in the "correct" direction caused by the voltage from the batteries, back-EMF polarity will be opposite to the voltage from the battery direction. So, if you connect a battery with some voltage X to the brushed motor, if will start turning and reach some speed. If you take a battery with twice the voltage, 2 * X, it should rotate at twice that speed (assuming it can overcome the increasing friction and won't burn due to overvoltage/current etc etc ). This is probably a good point to mention about the current in the motor. When the battery is first connected to a non-moving motor, the motor isn't turning and the back-EMF is thus 0V. There's a voltage difference between the battery and the back-EMF, and it's this difference that causes the current to flow. Simplified, there's always some resistance in the circuit (for example the motors' internal resistance from the coil-wires, other wires, connectors etc), and current equals voltage divided by resistance. So still keeping it simple, as the resistance stays (or here is assumed to stay) the same, the bigger the difference between the back-EMF voltage and the voltage from the battery, the higher the current. If there's a big difference, the current will be higher, if there's a small difference, the current will be lower, and if there's no difference (battery voltage = back-EMF), there's no current. Current is the thing causing torque in the motor, so when the battery with a constant voltage is first connected and the motor is not turning, the difference between these two voltages is at its greatest. This will cause high current to flow, causing high torque and getting the motor moving. As the motor speeds up, the current drops as the difference between the voltages becomes smaller (back-EMF goes up), and the current (and thus the torque) of the motor drop. Ideally, once the motor reaches the speed where the back-EMF equals the battery voltage, the current and the torque would drop to 0 and the motor would be "free wheeling". In reality, the back-EMF is probably slightly below the battery voltage, as the motor has to overcome friction from bearings etc, and there's some current always flowing when running at steady speed. Some motors state constant factors called k-factors that can be used to calculate speed from voltage and torque from current, as they're both linear. Back to the speed control. As the speed of the motor is relational to the back-EMF and the motor changes speed when back-EMF and applied voltage do not "match", we can actually control the speed of the motor by controlling the voltage applied to it. You could use a potentiometer (a variable resistor) to drop the voltage before the H-bridge, but that just wastes power by burning it off as heat in the potentiometer (which itself might burn if it needs to drop a lot of voltage), and you'd have to control it by hand. This is where the fast switching ability of the transistors steps in. You might first think that "partially" switching on the transistor could be used to control voltage, but it's not a very precise method (to my knowledge) with motors and also wastes power in the transistor (again, actually heating up the transistor, which could lead to it burning). Instead of trying to control the voltage by allowing the transistor to conduct only partially, a scheme known as pulse width modulation (PWM) is used. I'll try to explain this as the best I can. PWM is a technique to produce a square wave signal (like those seen above) where the relation between the "on" time (full voltage) and "off" time (zero voltage) can be controlled. During one period, for some part of the period the full voltage is applied, and for the rest of the period, no voltage is applied. Controlling the "width" of the on-partion (full voltage pulse) of the period you get different "duty cycles". 100% duty cycle means that the voltage is at the full value throughout the period and 0% means there's no voltage in the entire course of the period. A single period is usually very short, and the frequency of the PWM is measured in hertz (1/s), meaning how many periods per second there are. Motor controls usually use "low" frequencies for PWM up to some tens of kilohertz (for example, 20kHz = 20000 hertz = 20000 times per second, about the upper limit of very good human hearing range). 20000 times a second might not sound "low", but in electronics-side, the "ITU"-specification for frequencies calls 3kHz-30kHz -range VLF = "very low frequency" When "sufficient" voltage is applied at the "gate" of the mosfet (that's one of the three pins in the mosfets, the other two are "drain" and "source", the functions of these are similar to base, emitter and collector in bipolar junction transistors), the mosfet will allow current to flow between it's drain and source. Depending on the voltage difference between the gate and source, the mosfet will either be fully off (not conducting), then start to partially conduct, and once the voltage difference is "large enough", it will fully conduct. I won't go into gate charges and how to go with driving high-side N-channels here... Now, if we "drive" the gate of the mosfet with a PWM pulse (let's just assume that the on-part of the pulse is of "sufficient voltage", ok? ), the mosfet will conduct during the on-part (full voltage) of the PWM-period, and stop conducting during the off-part of the period. In reality, there is also some delay ("rise and fall times") between the transistor starting to fully conduct after the higher voltage is applied and before it stops conducting after the voltage drops to zero, but for the sake of simplicity, just assume it turns on and off pretty much instantly. So, as the mosfet is switching between fully conducting and not conducting, the motor will get pulses of voltage applied to it. Again simplified, with the switching happening at a high frequency, what the motor "sees" as the incoming voltage is the "average voltage" between the "on"-part and "off"-part of the PWM-period. If the full voltage would be for example 5V, and the on-part of the period would last half of the period, and the off-part would last the second half of the period, the voltage applied to the motor would be half of the full voltage, 2.5V. Using the duty-cycle, it's then easy to calculate the voltages, using a fraction percent-value (100% = 1.0, 50% = 0.5, 10% = 0.1 etc): 100% duty cycle: 5V * 1.0 = 5V 80% duty cycle: 5V * 0.8 = 4V 60% duty cycle: 5V * 0.6 = 3V 40% duty cycle: 5V * 0.4 = 2V 20% duty cycle: 5V * 0.2 = 1V 0% duty cycle: 5V * 0.0 = 0V Being able to change the duty-cycle, and thinking of the average voltage, you can create more complex waveforms than simple square wave. The below image shows a sine-wave -like voltage applied by changing the pulse width between the periods: The thick black line is the voltage applied to the motor, the thinner lines show the PWM-pulse going up and down, at different duty cycles in each period. Nevermind the horizontal line in the middle, it's not related to this. So, I hope from this you can see how using an H-bridge with 4 mosfets can be used to control the direction of the motor (by using "high-side" and "low-side" -mosfets from two opposite sides of the H-bridge) and how the speed of the motor in said direction can be controlled by quickly switching the transistors on and off, to apply different voltages to the motor. Actually, there's current flowing only when the transistors are conducting, the motor connections are "floating" during the off-state, and thus, no current (or very little) is flowing. So actually the motor's alternating between (almost) free-wheeling and motoring, but this happens fast, and "mass is slow", so it has very little effect (you won't notice it). And now, to the "real deal", the 3-phase BLDC motor, which is what (at least most if not all) our wheels use. BLDC: Both the above animations show an "inrunner" -BLDC motor. It means that the "inside" of the motor is rotor (the part that turns) with the permanent magnets. In our wheels, the structure is actually the opposite: the tire on the outer rim of the motor turns, while the stator is in the middle (an "outrunner"-motor). AFAIK, same principles of control apply to both, although the motor characteristics might be slightly different. http://i9.aijaa.com/b/00867/13659072.jpg The basic idea is still the same as in the brushed motor driving: magnetic fields of the coils are used to attract / repel the permanent magnets. In the brushed motor, the brushes handled energizing the coils and it was simply enough to plug a power source into the two connectors of the motor. Here we have three connectors, that then are connected together inside the motor, there are two common patterns, the "wye" (or "y" or "star")-connection and the "delta" (or "triangle")-connection: Personally, I must admit that I don't know the pros or cons of either configuration. To my knowledge, both can be run with similar principles, although the commutation order might differ(?) The motors in EUCs have much more coils and poles than in the usual pictures, I believe this is to give a more precise control over the motor position, ie. finer control. Basically, the upside of a brushless motor is less friction (only mechanical connections are in the bearings), and thus less audible noise (unless you can hear the PWM-frequency like in some wheels ), longer lifetime and (I believe) higher efficiency, although this may vary. The downside is that a much more complex method of driving the motor is needed compared to brushed motors. You can't just plug a battery over two phases and expect the motor to turn. It could maybe twitch a little if the magnetic fields of the coils happen to attract to/repulse from the nearest permanent magnets, and then stay there stationary, all the while heating up the coils and, if the battery/other power supply can supply enough current, probably sooner or later burning them or the power source. So don't do that. To drive a 3-phase motor, you need to energize the phases (and thus the coils) in correct order and at correct time (well, at least some motors should start eventually turning and "catch up" just by energizing the phases in correct order at stable frequency, but that's not really "controlled" way of driving it). For controlling three phases, three half-bridges (not H-bridges) are used: Looks pretty similar to the H-bridge before? That's because a half-bridge is also known as "half-H-bridge". Each of those two mosfets on the high- and low-side form one half-bridge (half of a H-bridge). With three phases, you need three half-bridges (or "one and a half H-bridges"? ) The reason I started with the brushed motors and the H-bridge is that if you understood the simpler H-bridge (how it can be used to control the direction and the speed of the motor), the same principles work here: the speed/current of the motor can be controlled with PWM and direction of the motor can be controlled based on which two phases are conducting at a time (high-side from one bridge, low-side from the other). The added complexity is that the phases need to be energized in correct order as the motor turns. For this, the controller needs to know the position of the rotor. Typically, EUCs seem to use Hall-effect sensors (Hall-sensors) for detecting the rotor position (there are other ways, like rotary encoders, but I don't think they're used in EUCs). Wikipedia states that: A Hall effect sensor is a transducer that varies its output voltage in response to a magnetic field. Hall effect sensors are used for proximity switching, positioning, speed detection, and current sensing applications. A three sensor setup seems to be typical for our wheels and BLDCs in general. Many BLDC-driving documents / articles give out the commutation order of the phases either as a table or as a graph showing the sensor on/off -states and the high/low/floating -states for the phases (for one direction): So there are 6 different "states" (or combinations) of the bridges. The order of states can be different for different motors, so if you try to build your own motor controller, it might take some trial and error to find the correct sequence (and then reverse to run it in the other direction). Also, a brief period of both mosfet "off" (not conducting) is needed when the conducting mosfet on the bridge is changed from high to low (or vice versa), as the mosfet gates need to be "discharged" before the voltage drops below the conducting threshold. This is called "dead time insertion" (DTI), ie. a brief period is waited before continuing operation, otherwise there's a risk of bridge shoot-through (the other mosfet hasn't fully stopped conducting, and the other starts conducting -> potential short circuit through the bridge between battery plus and minus). In addition to the position, the hall-sensors can be used to measure the speed (how fast the sensor states are switching from one position to another) and direction of the motor (the order in which the sensors switch on and off). Somebody also suggested that after certain speed, the EUCs could actually switch to sensorless speed/position-detection (maybe the hall-sensors don't switch up and down fast enough after certain speed?), using the back-EMF voltage from the floating phase to induce the rotation speed. I haven't studied the subject much, so I won't go into it, but I did learn that this requires fairly precise timing (otherwise you'll get false readings). Earlier I mentioned that the voltage difference between the batteries (well, actually the average from the PWM-pulses, when using that for control) and the back EMF is what causes the current to flow. Now, as current causes the torque of the motor, and higher torque means higher acceleration (faster change in speed), the applied voltage can also be used to control torque. Larger voltage difference, larger current, larger torque. So in addition to controlling the speed, the wheels must control the torque to keep us from falling down. The final piece of the puzzle for self-balancing is not actually in the motor, but of course the gyroscope/accelerometer in the mainboard (to my knowledge, the accelerometer is there only to make reading the gyroscope more accurate, I've understood it tends to wander and the acceleration info can be used to correct this in the filters). In principle, the idea is simple: the gyroscope is used detect the pitch (tilting back and forth for acceleration/deceleration) and roll (shutting down after falling on its side) of the wheel: When the wheel starts tilting forwards, the motor must be accelerated to a faster forward speed (or get moving if stationary, or decelerate if moving backwards) to keep it balanced. If tilting backwards, the motor must be slowed down to prevent falling backwards (when moving forwards). There might be some form of "dead-zone" allowing the wheel to tilt a little bit backwards or forwards before the motor reacts (one way of doing "soft"-riding mode), also some wheels allow the pedals tilt more when turning in slow speed (so probably they use the speed-, pitch- & roll-information for this). Of course, the real deal is the balancing logics and fine tuning of the acceleration/speed control/dead-zone/allowing tilts when the wheel is turning (ie. the roll is different from zero) etc. That's what makes different wheels different to ride, and probably is one of the most, if not the most important asset of any single wheel-company, as that's what really distinguishes it from other similar wheels and gives the riding "feel" of the wheel. There are a ton of more technical details I've skipped over above, like different and more complicated ways the PWM-drive can be done (sine-wave driving, space-vectors, field-oriented control, whathaveyou...), motor inductances, inductive spikes, etc etc., mostly because it goes beyond the scope of "basics", but also because I'd probably get a ton of details plain wrong But, were not really finished yet with the basic motor control: there is (at least) one more thing: braking (yeah, that's nice to have), namely, regenerative braking. There are multiple ways to brake an electric motor: you could use mechanical brakes (yeah, well, not really with self-balancing wheels ), let it free-wheel to a stop (with self-balancing wheels, not really an option either), use resistive braking (which causes tons of heat that must be dissipated), "plugging-type" braking, where the motor control actually tries to drive the motor backwards (causing what is called "slipping"), dynamic/"rheostatic" braking (of which there are actually multiple different types of) and finally, regenerative braking. I haven't actually delved that deep into braking the motor, especially the dynamic/rheostatic -types, but I do know a little bit about the basics of regenerative braking. The best fairly brief explanation of regenerative braking I've found is this: http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56186/how-can-i-implement-regenerative-braking-of-a-dc-motor Although it talks of a single-phase DC motor and H-bridge, I believe the same principle can be (and is being) used for 3-phase motors also, just that the phases must be switched in "correct order" and correct timing. For a much better explanation than mine, you probably should read through the accepted answer in that question. As said before, the motor also acts as a generator/dynamo due to the back-EMF induced in it while it's turning. When you get moving with the wheel, you actually gain "kinetic energy" (E = mv2 or something along those lines?); that is, the chemical energy in the battery packs converts into electric energy, which then converts into heat (thermal energy) and motion (kinetic energy). Although we often talk about "energy losses" or "power losses", energy never actually disappears. The "losses" just mean that part of the energy turns into something we don't want (like heat instead of motion). But anyway, some part of the energy dissipated from the batteries has turned into motion (and some part has been "lost" to other forms of energy), but now you need to slow down or stop. Again, energy never disappears completely, so when you brake, the motor actually has to do "dump" the extra kinetic energy somewhere, it can't just disappear into thin air (well, technically, it CAN disappear into thin air, in the form of heat ). Purely resistive braking is a bit troublesome due to high power that must be dissipated, so to do braking with resistive load, huge power resistors with large heatsinks would be needed. The basic idea of regenerative braking is (or at least seems to be, from what I've understood ;)) that low-sides of the half-bridges (probably two bridges at a time in a 3-phase motor) are conducting simultaneously, causing the current from motor to flow through them and back to the motor to brake and "charge" the magnetic fields of the motor coils, then one high-side is switched open (there could be some leakage through the high-side mosfet body-diodes?) to "shoot" off the charge (discharge the coil magnetic fields) into the battery (during which time the motor is not braking). Basically the back-EMF voltage must get (at least momentarily) higher than the battery voltage for the current to flow in "reverse" and charge up the packs. "Discharging" that into the packs, the voltage drops again, and then the low sides are opened again to brake more and charge up again. Repeating this fast, the motor is "switching" between braking and dumping the energy into the battery packs. As this is done fast (probably at the same PWM-frequency as when normally driving the motor), you feel it as constant braking (same as you do when you accelerate, you could say that the motor is actually switching "on" and "off" real fast, but the frequency is high and mass is slow, so you won't notice it). Probably (a large?) part of the energy is burned off as heat in different parts (motor coils, wiring, mosfets, even the battery cells), so it's nowhere near 100% efficient, more like "convenient" (and there is the upside that it does charge your packs, at least a little), as no extra parts are needed. The rate of deceleration (or "negative acceleration", if you will) plays a role in the amount of (momentary) power generated during braking, and there have been reports of the mosfets actually burning on mainboards during strong braking. On Vee's MCM2s, I tested "not-that-aggressive-yet-strong" -braking, and got peaks above 2kW (if memory serves). Even if Gotway has that huge 1.5-2x error on the current measurements, it's still above 1kW at peak (but only for a moment). I don't know how high it could go with lots of mass and really strong braking, but I guess "pretty high" Apparently high enough to fry something, if you look at some experiences here. Well, that's pretty much my short(ish) explanation of the motor-drive... I was going to write about the details of things much more, but decided against it, as it would probably make this too long and there are many, many things I'm not that sure about
  31. 25 points
    I'm a complete newbie when it comes to EUC's but I have just learned how to ride them and now I'm hooked. It's been less than a week since I got my KingSong KS18S, but I wanted to share my experience if anyone is interested. This is a review that I wrote for eWheels since Jason has done such an amazing job helping me get the wheel I wanted. If these types of posts are prohibited please forgive me and my excitement for this new hobby/lifestyle. "Let me give you a little background. I had been using a simple hoverboard as an "assistant commuter." I would ride it from my house to a commuter train and then from there I would ride it again to work. I had done this for a year, but the reality of this being so slow for a few of the miles I was on it set in very quickly. "I was looking for other options that were all electric and also very fun. I had already been known at work and around the work neighborhood as the guy with the hoverboard and somewhat even infamous. I wanted to ramp it up a notch too with whatever I decided to upgrade to. I looked into eBikes and then saw a video on YouTube about Electric Unicycles. As soon as I saw that video, which was for a really cheap and under powered EUC, I knew that I needed to get one. I started researching what types were available, cost, power, speed, battery size, mileage, etc. "I settled on either a Gotway Monster 22 or a KingSong KS18S because of the power and mileage capability. I wanted this to be able to be a full commuter and errand runner. This would become my primary form of transportation, so it had to be top of the line! I quickly realized the price for me was high, but definitely worth the cost. I saved up what I could and even sold some things on eBay to get all the money. After watching nearly all the videos that are on YouTube about EUCs in general while the time passed, I finally found out about eWheels as the best vendor here in the USA. I also, during this research, finally decided on the KingSong KS18S, as my biggest priorities were, in this order, distance, safety, quality, and power. I've found that overall opinion out there is that KingSong, has the best safety and quality ratings of all the EUC vendors. So I ordered it through eWheels and now I just had to wait for it to arrive. "Three days! That's all it took to get from California to Utah. By the way, there's almost no one in Utah with an EUC, so I may even be the only KS18S rider in the state. That needs to change, we need enough to form a group. "So here's my experience. I had no experience on one, so it was entirely up to me to train myself. I did watch many videos of how to ride one on YouTube, but they only gave my brain the knowledge. I was VERY UNSUCCESSFUL on my first attempt. Never once though did my EUC fall or get scratched. I was extra cautious. On day two, I was able to ride it, but couldn't quite control where it went, obviously not desirable. After three days however, it finally clicked in my head somehow and WOW, I was riding an EUC. "It was actually only about 3 or 4 hours of trying to ride it as I spent mostly only about an hour each day practicing. I had no serious falls or close calls, but being tense and inexperienced had me really squeezing the EUC with my knees which caused some minor bruises on both the inside of my knees and ankles. "Once I got it down I didn't find much need to squeeze the sides unless I wanted a really quick acceleration or I was climbing a steep hill. Which this one has NO problems at all doing. I've mostly ridden it in downtown Salt Lake City and drove it up and down some really serious inclines without any problems. "I've seen some reviews both written and video saying that the KingSong KS18S is NOT a good EUC for beginners. If that's true then I'm an exceptional rider. But statistically there shouldn't be anything special about me, so I would say it's a great beginner EUC as it is a top of the line model. Which means it has plenty of power when you're trying something that you don't know that you shouldn't try as a beginner. It will NOT cut out suddenly! "I would recommend this for beginners who have never ridden an EUC, but only IF they have the budget available. "This is day four of me riding the KS18S and I already have 45 miles on it and that almost entirely yesterday's distance. This has quickly become my favorite form of transportation. "A special note about learning to ride though; if you want to learn quickly, then you will need to be in good shape. If you take it slowly then it doesn't require as much out of you physically. I use an Apple Watch to keep track of steps, movement, heart rate, etc. which I use to meet certain exercise goals. I blew all those goals out of the water while I was trying to learn it. Four times as many calories burned; three times as much movement; and twice the exercise were the results of learn this awesome machine. "The KingSong KS18S is an EUC that shouldn't be passed on if you've got the chance. I really love the distance, speed and power that comes with this alternate form of travel that has now become my favorite form of travel." That was my review but just later that day I decided to take it up the mountain beyond the Utah State Capital to some of the radio towers that are there. It was so easy to get there! I can't believe what this can do. Never got a warning beep or notification of any kind. The temperature remained great. The only reason that I didn't get to the top was that it was a spur of the moment decision and I didn't have a full battery. I only had about 20% to 30% left near the top so I decided to head back down so I would damage the battery. The regenerative braking was great as I had about 45% battery when I got to the bottom of the mountain. Here's a few of my photos from the trip. Thanks for taking the time to read this long post. I look forward to more time on my KS18S and this forum. By the way, If there is anyone in the Salt Lake City area that would like to get together for a ride, let me know. I've only seen one other EUC, not sure which, in Utah further north. And based on the Apps and people who share their locations, there aren't more than about 8 in the whole state. I love to meet you.
  32. 25 points
    Definitely don't want you to be stuck without a wheel, and you shouldn't have to be repairing a brand new one, so we are gonna make it right. Just got off a chat with @Bobwheel and we'll hook you up with brand new V10F - it will leave the factory in a day or two to be air shipped to the states. We will email you with more details in the next day or two once we have tracking and ETA.
  33. 25 points
    ACM 1600.i was still in shock last night. Hard to type with one arm so I’m going to keep it short. The ACM was running strong. No alarms occurred but it suddenly went into an uncontrollable wobble. Slight at first but within 2-3 seconds it became was all over the place. I tried slowing down and it just became worse and then I just lost control. My helmet’s face guard hit first and then my left should. Extremely dissy with adrenaline flowing lime crazy I uprighted the smashed up ACM and road it back to my truck 1/4 mile away. My nurse wife was horrifed and put steri strips over my gash about the left eye. Xray results: comminuted fx left humeral head, avulsion fx along greater tuberosity, superior subluxation of the articular humeral head and widening of the acromioclavicular joint. Sorry I have leave right now but thanks to everyone offering their wishes.
  34. 25 points
    @Jason McNeil has been out in California the last few days, re-flashing all the ACM's and MSuper's (40+ I think) before sending them back out to the customers. When I finally was able to get to his makeshift workshop with my MSuper, mine was the last one. It took about 10 minutes to open, remove the bluetooth module, plugin the Gotway firmware loader, and download the fixed code (which took maybe 5 seconds to download). This is an interesting aside. Gotway had originally told Jason that they had caught his shipment before it went out the door, and re-flashed all the boards. Fast-forward to now when Jason is re-flashing all of the wheels. The process involves taking a razor blade and slicing the silicon that is holding the Bluetooth module to the control board, so that the Bluetooth module can be removed. Jason discovered that about one third of his 40+ wheels had the silicon sliced. This means that Gotway fixed 1/3rd of Jason's wheels, shrugged, and decided to ship the rest without fixing. Who knows why. Maybe they had a deadline to meet and ran out of time, or the workers told management that everything was done so they could go home. Who knows, but it's rather amazing. I've ridden my fixed MSuper in the mountains above Los Angeles for about 45 miles between yesterday and today. Lots of fast, rough riding with bumps galore. No problems. My final test was to repeat the scenario that threw me off the wheel two weeks ago. Here's the video... Everyone who is receiving @Jason McNeil's wheels in the next week or so can rest assured that they have a solid wheel that can take abuse. I'm back to lovin my MSuper
  35. 25 points
    Here is the latest updated video from Jimmy and Juliana, the smooth little duo Now featuring kendama, soccer, and as a bonus: the piano stool mod! Enjoy.
  36. 25 points
    I just wanted to take a second to Rant a little bit, then I'll feel better. For the past year or so, I've been a big supporter of NineBot. When people have an issue, I want to help, and I've always stood up for the brand, even when NineBot has issues. I tell perspective buyers how to buy the wheel. They make a pretty nice wheel, and mine has been flawless ever since I bought it. I've got over 500 miles on it so far. The problem really started with the NineBot P, but it gets much worse. I have a friend that bought a NineBot P and got to ride it for 2 weeks before the motherboard fried. NineBot decided to stop production of this wheel due to this problem, but they have not offered a fix as of yet. It's been MANY MANY months now, and my friend's wheel is still sitting. That's $1200 just sitting. And now, NineBot Corp announces today that they have Terminated Immediately ALL Contracts with ALL European Distributors until further notice. Some might be picked back up, and some might not. But, in the mean time, all of these distributors are now stuck with a LOT of inventory that they cannot sell with a Warranty! You see, you have to be an Official Distributor, or NineBot will not give warranty support. This is a common tactic with Large Chinese companies. They get a bunch of Distributors to buy a LOT of inventory up front, and then they drop them. The Corporation has already gotten their money, so they don't care. NineBot is worth over 80 Million Dollars, so they aren't hurting in any way. I'm sure most of you know Ian Sampson from www.SpeedyFeet.uk , he's one of the Distributors that was dropped with a few hours notice. At this point, NineBot has not told him whether he will be picked up again or not. NineBot has done this same tactic of leaving their Distributors out of the loop many times. The Distributors are being asked questions by buyers about delays, shipping times, warranty, etc, but NineBot won't answer those questions. NineBot doesn't even answer Customer's Questions when they are sent directly. They let the Distributor take all the heat! This is so unfair in so many ways! Ian is one of the Nicest people, and probably THE best Distributor NineBot has. To be treated this way is incomprehensible. He effectively put NineBot One on the Map, not only in the UK, but all over the world. He has spent thousands of hours selling the NineBot Brand and offering free advice and help along the way. He's posted almost 100 helpful Videos on YouTube to help customers of NineBot. He is probably the fastest responder to questions of anyone I've met with this many customers. And, he personally answers each and every question. I'm sorry about this long rant, but I for one will not buy another NineBot product unless Ian is Reinstated as a Official Distributor by NineBot. And even then, I'm going to have to seriously consider if I want to support this Corporation anymore. The only reason I can think of at this moment would be to help people like Ian and others so they don't loose their shirts on this raw deal. Please take a moment to write NineBot and let them know you are disappointed in their decision and you hope they bring back their most dedicated Distributors. Sales@Segway.com Sales@NineBot.com Sales@Segway.Eu.com If you've gotten this far, thank you for listening... I did not talk to Ian before writing this, so I hope I have not hurt any feelings, but I felt it needed to be said.
  37. 24 points
    I was on my second 22-mile Tesla range test of the day (video tomorrow) when I ran into a divot in the path. In hindsight it seems like what happened to @Rehab1 just happened to me. I had checked my speed (via the Pebble) just moments before, so I know my speed was ~18-mph. The wheel wobbled for a split-second before I was thrown off. No time to take even a single partial step. BAM! I was immediately hitting the cement, and damn did it hurt. Took probably a couple of minutes before I could ever so slowly raise myself. Everything below my waist was a non-issue (thank you kneepads). My wrists are great (thank you Flexmeters). Unfortunately I have not been wearing elbow pads for a long time, thinking they don't really come into play much. Was I wrong. My leather jacket is toast (or at least now it's a dedicated riding jacket). As the picture below shows, my elbows is trashed. Tore some good amount of skin from my fingers. The helmet did it's job (see the heavy scratching. My riding glasses tore a bit of skin around my nose. But my right shoulder took a major impact. I'm hoping nothing is broken (no sharp pains), but it's swollen now and I don't have great movement. I'll add some additional thoughts later, but typing with one hand is a pain in the butt. Somehow the Pebble watch got a good scraping
  38. 24 points
    Out of the blue my wife approached me today and said she wants to see if she can learn. I'm rather amazed at this turn of events. She's not the athletic type and has felt she doesn't have the greatest balance (but rode bicycles as a kid). I tell her like I tell other people, that if you can ride a bicycle you can learn to ride an EUC. I guess seeing me ride all the time over the last couple of years has started to rub off on her. She says she'll never do the kind of riding that I do, but likes the idea of doing little rides together, maybe at some local parks. I think she just likes the idea of getting out of the house more, and some outdoors time with me I'm very excited, I just hope that she can pick it up. I'm going to take the training very slow, but fortunately she has me to teach her. Now I'm debating what wheel. I'm thinking for the very beginning baby steps I'll use the cheapo generic wheel. I would be holding her, etc. Then transition to another wheel. I'm leaning towards the Z10. If she actually sticks with it (a big if), then maybe get her Glide 3 / V8. Lots of time between now and then to figure that out. I'll keep you appraised of what happens here.
  39. 24 points
    @Shoe73 @kmoon my video was not done by Inmotion, or for Inmotion. I did the video myself, like all my other videos, on my computer, with my camera, filmed by friends. If it looks like professionnal, it is because i spend hours to do it and to learn alone how to edit. There is the logo of Inmotion France because i work for them since this september and i have to put their logo on all my videos. If i do EUC with this level it's just because i train. If anyone trains 2h everyday in a little place, he will do the same. I've bought myself the music rights of my video because i wanted to. I've chosen to do the video on the very basic V5 450w 144wh to show that the important is not the wheel, but the Will and the training of the wheeler. And my goal is just to share this technique to see the EUC freestyle level growing in the world. I have began on august 2015 watching the video of Brian Thompson and Alexander Segmüller (thanks to them), and now i'm really happy when i see young people trying to do my tricks.
  40. 24 points
    Here's the next installment in the series. Sadly, her semester starts tomorrow, so productivity may decrease... productivity in extra-curricular activities, that is.
  41. 23 points
    Hey guys, Another shameless promotion of my first ride with the 17" Gotway Nikola prototype!
  42. 23 points
    Went out for a night ride the day before yesterday. I've become very fond of riding at night, when the city is completely deserted. It's nice to be able to focus on my riding and on progressively taming the 18XL. I still struggle a bit with things like accelerating on wide curves (large roundabouts, for example), and get speed wobbles, wobbles when accelerating hard, and when braking (except power braking). I was out for a couple of hours, mostly practising hard acceleration, braking, carving and slaloming: I'm really starting to enjoy having to put my weight into it, it's very different from the V8, which I can just effortlessly "flick" from side to side. Also did some off-roading, which was great fun, as the paths I took are usually plagued with people walking their dogs, forcing me to limit my speed drastically. T'was fun to push the envelop and get high on the adrenaline Sidenote: @Marty Backe, I'm following your advice and using a flashlight for night-riding: the 18XL has a great headlight, but when accelerating, braking or on pitch black trails, it isn't enough. The flashlight works like a charm, and is a much simpler solution than the DIY inventions I tried to attach a bicycle light to the wheel or my helmet. I initially thought it would be tedious to be holding the flashlight all the time, but have grown used to it, and can easily turn it on or off depending on visibility, resting my arm. It also comes in handy when approaching an intersection: I put it on strobe mode to give drivers plenty of notice of my impending arrival before we cross paths, and so far, I'd say it's prevented several mishaps with cars ( @Smoother can attest to the fact those don't tend to end well...) Anyway, before I go off on another tangent, mid-ride I took a break, and realised I could have unlocked the max. speed to 50 km/h several weeks ago. So, I unlocked it (had to try 3 different versions of the KS app...but that's a different story) and started leaving my "speed comfort zone" so I can gradually overcome the wobbles (they tend to start at about 35 km/h). I noticed that I instinctively grip the wheel when accelerating hard and when I reach a certain speed, so I worked on relaxing my stance. Had a few close calls (the kind of nasty wobbles that make you consider bailing), but managed to control them. Then, on the last stretch before getting home, I pushed myself one last time, and....I was managing! Faster and faster, no wobbles, complete control of the wheel, feeling confident and....suddenly I'm airborne and sliding along the pavement. I was so focused on my riding and maintaining control of the wheel that I didn't even see the speed bump 100m (330 ft) from my house, which I ride past at least twice a day...I checked WheelLog, and since most the ride home was either off-road or accelerate-wobble-slow down, the trip's top speed (43,8 km/h) was, beyond a doubt, the speed I was going when I saluted the pavement. It happened so fast I didn't even have time to think. I landed on my right side, and based on the scrape marks on my elbow guards (and lack thereof on my wrist guard), it appears my right wrist didn't even touch the ground and all my weight landed on my elbow (perfect recipe for a nasty shoulder injury). I'm glad I was wearing sturdy skateboard-style protections and not something like G-Form Pro-X's under my clothes, 'cause even with the skid plate and thick padding, the ol' elbow was sore for a while. Aside from that, I had some tingling in my left fingers, which scraped against the pavement (might consider getting some leather gloves...don't fancy road-rash...) and a nasty hit on my lateral malleolus (bottom of the fibula). An odd place to take a hit...but a good argument for wearing high mountain boots when riding; loosely laced, to not hinder ankle movement, they do provide protection for a part of the body I'd never even considered might be affected in an EUC crash. I rode away from the crash a bit shaken and with tingling fingers, but that's about it. It was the next day when I found myself limping and with a fairly sore shoulder (not a nice feeling when you've already dislocated that shoulder twice in the past). Gearing up saved the day. Inspecting my gear later, my helmet doesn't have a single scratch, but if my head had hit the ground, it would have been from the ear downward, so anything but a full-face helmet would have been as good as nothing at all. Looks like my backpack absorbed part of the hit too, as there's a tear on the side (if it hadn't been for the backpack, that would have been my side scraping against the asphalt). Am no longer limping and my shoulder is only slightly sore, so I consider myself pretty lucky (I fell in a straight line; I could have landed on the curb, slid into a parked car, etc.). The 18XL got a couple of ugly scars, and I ripped the side pad in three different places (almost pulled it off entirely). The factory adhesive is strong stuff, just pressed on the pad for a few seconds and it stayed in place, so I reckon I'll order a replacement but leave it as is until it's beyond recovery. I can't help but remember some advice given by @Mono, I think it was, on inattention being one of the no. 1 causes of EUC crashes. I was almost home (which is when we tend to pay less attention), the streets were deserted, there were no pedestrians, cars, dogs or other "mobile hazards", and due to excess focus on keeping the wheel stable at speed, I wasn't paying enough attention to the road in front of me. In retrospect, I'm glad this happened late at night and the obstacle was a speed bump and not a person (although I wouldn't have pushed my limits like that in any other circumstance; then again...you never really know when/where someone might jump out in front of you...) On the other hand, since I moved recently, it took me a a while to locate and unbox my protective gear, so for a over a week, I'd been running errands on the wheel, on a daily basis, with no protections at all. Granted, I was extra cautious and didn't take any risks, but accidents can happen when you least expect it so...no more of that nonsense. If it hadn't been for protective gear, this would have been a nasty fall (although another small lesson I've learned is that no matter how much protection one wears, there's always going to be some part of the body that's unprotected, so I guess the risk of accidents and injuries is something one just has to accept the moment he hops on a one-wheeled fracture machine) Over and out
  43. 23 points
    I'm back with part 2 of my comparison review of the Gotway MSX vs Kingsong 18XL! Took them out to the park to do some off-roading. These things are tough...
  44. 23 points
    As there have been numerous questions about where to buy electric unicycles in country X, or which shops sell some specific brand/model, I've tried to compile a list of resellers and such to help you. It's by no means anywhere near complete, as there probably are a large number of resellers/agents/manufactures/etc who are hard to find by search engines alone, or don't have their own websites, but at least it should give you a few options where to look for. The original list was painstakingly compiled by me, using nothing but what I found here in the forums, and search engines and translation tools, and probably I can't even find most non-english sites, as I don't know the correct search words or understand the language... Hopefully you, other people and the resellers themselves will chime in to make the list more complete over time. Disclaimer While it should be common sense, let's go over a few things: This list is not a complete set of all the manufacturers/resellers/agents/etc. worldwide, and can contain errors, omissions, out-of-date information etc. While I try to avoid any errors or misinterpretations, I do not guarantee that the information here is correct in any way or at any time. I am not affiliated with or compensated by any reseller, EUC manufacturer or such in the list, nor compensated by electricunicycle.org for any volunteer work I do here as a moderator. I take absolutely no responsibility of any errors or omissions in the list or other information in this thread, or anything that may follow from viewing, using or misusing the list or this thread, visiting the sites or contacting the entities mentioned in this list, including but not limited to: any problems with the resellers, warranty issues, shipping problems or scams; loss of money, profit, time, life, limbs or organs, virginity, faith or any other damage, liability or loss you may suffer or unwanted side-effect or end result when engaging directly or indirectly in any way with any reseller, agent, manufacturer or other entity mentioned in the list. You do so at your own responsibility. While I at the minimum try to check that the site at least looks legit, I give you no guarantees of anything, as I have nothing to do with these resellers/web-sites/entities other than listing them (well, I might buy a wheel or some accessories from some of them, but it doesn't affect this listing). Basically, if something goes wrong, don't come crying to me. The list is here to maybe help you find a suitable place to get an EUC, but as it is probably never complete or up-to-date, there may or may not be more suitable options in your case elsewhere. Use the search engines, Luke. I reserve the right to remove any single entity mentioned in the list and not re-add them in case there's strong evidence that points that the reseller/entity is not legit, is dealing with illegal items or is a fraud, or for any other reason I see as a reason for removing the said entity from this list, and reserve the right to change this disclaimer and any contents of this post/thread at any time without warning. While I have expressed my opinions on some manufacturers, wheel models and such in other topics, and reserve the right to do so also in the future outside this listing/thread, I DO NOT endorse, advocate, give better or poorer visibility to, or otherwise recommend or shun any single reseller or brand over another within this listing or thread, whether I've used certain brand/model or not, or whether I've bought something from a listed reseller or not, or recommend ordering anything either from abroad or domestically or otherwise, nor breaking any international or local laws regarding importing wheels or related parts or accessories, using the wheels or in any other way. The choice is entirely yours. To put it simply, I hope this list and other information in this post is correct and useful to you, but on the other hand won't take any responsibility about anything Phew, I hope I made myself clear. Is your shop or a shop you know missing from the list, or contains wrong information? Are you reseller whose information is missing/wrong in the list? Please post to this thread, and I'll add/fix it to the list as soon as possible. Please give a link to the shops' front page or a section which shows the wheels (URL), mention the country or countries (and city or cities, especially if you have physical shop or are able to showcase the wheels in person) where the shop is located/shipping from and the brand(s) being sold. Do not advertise your shop/wheels with extraneous comments like "We have the best wheels/offers/accessories" or "Our wheel is the best and latest technology", stick to the needed information only and create a separate topic under Advertisements & Promotions for your wheel/shop/whatever, if you want to. Only resellers who sell directly to individuals (eg. private persons) one piece at a time are accepted. No whole/bulk-sales only, although it is ok if you sell both in bulk and one piece at a time. Ordering from Ebay / Amazon / Banggood / DXGate / Alibaba / other large e-commerce site (or whatever they're called) You can probably find lots of bigger and smaller resellers and manufacturers and (pretty much) any brand selling through these sites. I do not list such links here, visit the site and do your own searches to find what you're looking for. Ordering directly from manufacturer At least most manufacturers seem to sell also directly to consumers, so you can (usually) order directly from them. I have not included the contact information of the manufacturers here, but you can probably find it in their webpages, if you have a specific brand in mind and want to be sure to get the latest model. However, I have added direct manufacturer representatives who are registered in these forums, you can (probably) contact them directly with a private message to ask about the wheels/make an order. Ordering abroad vs. domestically Basically, the difference between buying from a domestic reseller or abroad is that you may need to pay additional customs duties and/or taxes when ordering abroad, depending where you are and where you are ordering from, and on the other hand, pay (maybe) more when ordering from a domestic reseller (as they've already paid the customs duties importing the wheels, and add taxes + margin on the price), but (probably) get faster turnaround and less shipping costs and such for any maintenance or warranty issues. Or not, this may vary from reseller to reseller and country to country. Compare the prices, costs and services yourself. To get more information about any taxes, customs duties or such when ordering abroad, check your local government, customs or such web pages for details and rates (and possible import limitations, if such exist anywhere for EUCs?). Warranty shipping especially overseas may also be costly, should such need arise, and if you have to pay for it yourself. Some manufacturers/resellers apparently have just sent the spare parts directly, without needing to ship the entire wheel or even parts back for warranty. Some may require the parts or the entire wheel to be shipped back. There may be costs to you or not, and they may vary a lot. I don't know, ask them what their policy is. There's also probably variation in warranties, defect liabilities, consumer protection etc. between countries, and those may or may not depend on where you have ordered the item and where you live. I suggest you find out such things before ordering. When ordering from anywhere, please note also that any transaction- and shipping-costs and such may or may not be included in the price. Locations the shops ship from Although a shop/site/whatever may be listed under country X/city Y (I've usually only extracted the location information from the "contact"-information or "about us"-section in the sites, if such is available and tells their location), it is possible that they only have an office or such in said country/city, and ship through a warehouse or other location in a different city/country. I leave it up to you to find out any issues this might affect (warranty, shipping, import duties, taxes...) before making any orders. If unsure about anything, contact the reseller/manufacturer/local goverment/customs/whatever seems suitable in the case directly and ask them. If you have any suspicions about any entity, the simplest solution is to not order from them. Manufacturer representatives and homepages Format: Manufacturer: username(s), homepage (if any/known) Airwheel: @Love Cherish @Arnold Li http://www.airwheel.net/ Caraok: @Janny, @Janny Wang Eyu: http://en.eyu.co/ F-Wheel: @Jesse Jin http://www.fwheel.cc/ Firewheel: - http://en.fire-wheel.com/index.html Gotway: @Jane Mo @Linneaunicycles http://www.kebye.com Huanxi: @Huanxi electric unicycle http://www.hx1000.com/en/ InMotion: @Bobwheel https://www.myinmotion.com/ IPS: - http://en.iamips.com/ @王月月 PinWheel: @PinWheel Joyce Rockwheel: @Barry Chen http://rockwheel.cn/ Suokuwheel: @suokuwheel http://www.suokuwheel.com/ King Song: tinawong has left KS? @Diana-Tan @Diana@szkingsong.com http://www.szkingsong.com/en/index.php Resellers in the forums This is an alphabetical list of resellers and and manufacturer representatives here in the forums (I'm not 100% sure of them all, please post and correct any wrong info). You can (probably) contact these people directly with questions/orders, but I'm not sure if some of them frequent the boards so much, so MIGHT have better luck with contacting the manufacturer/reseller via their pages or contact info found from there. FORMAT: USERNAME IN FORUMS (COUNTRY, shop) BRANDS Alwin Wong (Malaysia, Malaysia Airwheel, Malaysia Gotway) Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, King Song, others @bbking (Spain, Airwheelshop) Airwheel @Thewheeldeal (Australia, The Wheel Deal) Gotway OneWheel, Wind Rider, Chic @Gray Goodbarn (United Kingdom, Yorkshire Airwheels Ltd) Airwheel, Gotway @Jason McNeil (United Kingdom, WheelGo, USA, ewheels.com) IPS, Ninebot, InMotion, King Song, Gotway @johnc415 (USA) Gotway, IPS, Huanxi @Justina (Poland, electricunicycles.eu) IPS, King Song, InMotion, Solowheel @Kevin Lee (China/Hong Kong, independent) Gotway, King Song (others?) @Kok Fook Cheang (Malaysia, Asia e-Bike/Wind Rider manufacturer) Wind Rider, Rockwheel, IPS @Kyle Crilow (USA, How We Roll Wheels) Ninebot @mengke (Australia, WheelYouRide) Ninebot @Neale Gray (Australia, Milbay) Milbay @NevNutz (USA, Northern California, Tec Toyz) Gotway @Reagan Goh (Singapore, Ninebot.asia) Ninebot @Tim Haden (USA, HoodRiderz) Ninebot @Trey Lewis (USA, OneSeven) Gotway, IPS @vladmarks (United Kingdom, Project42) Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, Kingsong, Acton, Minimula @Wheelster (Canada, Wheelster) Airwheel, Firewheel, Solowheel, Ninebot, HX, IPS, Kaabo, SML, EHO, Cofly, generics Country list This is an alphabetical list by country with resellers who are located/ship from that country and which brand(s) they sell (at the time of adding to the list, as always, the information may not be up to date). Note that while city may be listed, the reseller may not have a physical shop there or their unicycles might be available for online-orders only and/or they might ship from a different country or city than stated. At least most sites/shops/resellers/distributors/callthemwhatyouwill probably ship to anywhere in the world, the per-country listing is to help people who want to order domestically or find out about possible physical shops near by to visit. Format: Reseller shop name, City name (if known): URL to shop Brands UNKNOWN/MULTIPLE COUNTRIES: EUniBikes.com, Denmark countrycode in phone number? http://www.eunibikes.com/shop/ TG, IPS FiresCycle, China countrycode? http://www.firescycle.com/ KMx, looks like rebrand for Firewheel F132/F260/F528 + some other two-wheeled? LightInTheBox, ? http://www.lightinthebox.com/ IPS, AirWheel, others... ROVR, ?: http://www.rovr.club/product/mobbo-electric-unicycle/ OneWheel, Ryno, Solowheel, SBU The Tech Life Store, ? http://www.thetechlifestore.com/product-category/smart-toys/outdoor-fun/ TG Wheelive: USA / China https://wheelive.com/ Fastwheel, WEERDA, Inmotion, Ninebot Airwheels, European Union/Slovenia: www.airwheels.pro Airwheel Australia: Milbay, Miami/Queensland: http://www.milbay.com.au/ Milbay (which is a rebranded King Song, AFAIK), Esway Tesla Wheels, ?: https://www.tesla-wheels.com/product/solowheel/ Solowheel The Wheel Deal, ? : https://www.thewheeldeal.net.au/ Gotway, King Song, IPS, Onewheel, Wind Rider, Chic Wheel you ride, Victoria: http://wheelyouride.webs.com/ Ninebot Austria CityWheel, Vienna: https://www.city-wheel.at/ AirWheel, Ninebot Funshop, Vienna: http://www.funshop.at/ Firewheel, Gotway, Ninebot, Solowheel, Airwheel, Inmotion, Monowheel, King Song Ninebot Austria, multiple distributors: http://www.ninebot.trade/index.php/home_ninebot_de_at.html Ninebot Ninebot-shop.at, Hohenems: https://www.ninebot-shop.at/ Ninebot Rentals: Mirtl-Motion, Vienna: http://www.mirtl-motion.at/ Ninebot (guided Vienna Tours & rentals, Ninebot Segways & Ninebot One) Belgium Cityzen, Brussels: http://www.cityzen.be/ Fastwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, F-wheel, Solowheel, King Song MonoWiel, Gistel: http://www.monowiel.be/ IO, MonoWiel (rebranded IPS?), Ninebot, InMotion, IPS, King Song Monowheels, Dilbeek: http://monowheels.be/ Gotway, Huanxi Brazil Ninebot Brazil, São Paulo: http://www.9botbrasil.com.br/ Ninebot Canada AirwheelUnicycle.com, Toronto: http://airwheelunicycle.com/Information/airwheel-models AirWheel Bestbuy, numerous locations: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/category/electric-unicycles/504392.aspx Sologear eRide-Toronto, Toronto: http://www.ewheelscanada.com Gotway, InMotion, King Song, Ninebot Gotway Canada, Ontario: https://gotwaycanada.com/ Gotway NineBotOne, Vancouver, BC http://www.ninebotone.ca/ Ninebot Ride the glide, Victoria: http://www.ridetheglide.ca/ Ninebot, Gotway Vancouver Electric Unicycles, Vancouver: http://www.vaneuc.com/webstore/en/ InMotion, Gotway, (King Song coming later) Wheelster, Quebec/Toronto/Montreal: http://wheelster.com/ Airwheel, Firewheel, Solowheel, Ninebot, HX, IPS, Kaabo, SML, EHO, Cofly, generics China Airebike, Jiang Su/Hong Kong: http://www.airebike.com/ Airwheel Air-Wheels, Hong Kong: http://en.air-wheels.com/22-electric-unicycle Airwheel, F-Wheel, Chic Smart Alloko, Shenzhen: http://www.alloko.com/all-products/ Airwheel Cocotool, Beijing: http://www.cocotool.com/portfolio/coolgo-most-popular-self-balance-electric-unicycle-x3/ CoolGo FazendoMedia, Beijing: http://balancingscooter.buy.fazendomedia.com/c1342681-gyroscopic-electric-unicycle Generics? Fosjoas, Shenzhen: http://www.fosjoas.com/Home/index Rebrands/generics? Geekbuying, Shenzhen: http://www.geekbuying.com/category/Bicycle-Supplies-1265 TG Holuby, Shenzhen: https://www.holuby.com/type/scooters.html Generics LifeJoys, Shenzhen: http://www.lifejoys.net/ FL (F-Wheel?) Ninebot Mall, Shenzhen: http://www.ninebotmall.com/ Ninebot Segwaybox, Shenyang: http://segwaybox.com/ AX37I (looks like Ninebot?) Smartride, Shenzhen: http://www.srwindow.cn/ Ninebot, InMotion, Yikebike, Solowheel Zapals, Shenzhen: http://www.zapals.com/outdoor-living/scooter-skateboard/electric-unicycle.html Generics? Croatia Airwheels, ?: www.airwheels.com.hr Airwheel Czech Republic Gotway.cz, Prague(?) : http://gotway.cz/ Gotway, Ninebot, Firewheel, IPS, Airwheel Denmark Air-Wheel.dk , Odense: http://air-wheel.dk/ Fly Sky Wheel Airwheel Denmark, ?: http://www.airwheels.dk/ Airwheel Coolstuff, Malmö: http://www.coolstuff.dk/ Solowheel, Airwheel Freego Nordic, Vejle: http://www.freegonordic.dk/ Freego, Okay Robot, Inmotion MyWheel, København (Copenhagen): http://mywheel.dk/29-el-uniwheel Airwheel, Firewheel, MyWheel Uniriders, Copenhagen(?): http://www.uniriders.com King Song Estonia Firstwheel, Tallinn: http://firstwheel.com/ Firstwheel, Airwheel, Ninebot, InMotion Finland CDON.com, Maarianhamina: http://cdon.fi/ Airwheel CoolStuff, Helsinki: http://www.coolstuff.fi Airwheel, Solowheel DG-Products, Espoo: http://kevytilmailu.com/index.php?id=10&ala=62 Airwheel, Ninebot, InMotion, King Song eCycle, Helsinki/Järvenpää: http://www.ecycle.fi/kauppa/ Gotway, InMotion E1on.com, Mikkeli: https://www.e1on.com/fi/tuoteryhma/727288 King Song Joyride Games, Forssa: http://www.joyride.fi/ JoyrideWheel (Looks like it's rebranded F-Wheel Dolphin One) Ollu.fi, Lohja: http://www.ollu.fi/ Generics, Huanxi Teknik Magasinet, Espoo/Helsinki/Lempäälä/Turku/Vantaa/Jyväskylä: http://www.teknikmagasinet.fi/tuotevalikoima/urheilu-ja-vapaa-aika/sahkokayttoiset-kulkuneuvot IPS, MonoWheel (rebrand of IPS?), ORB Wheel Verkkokauppa.com, Helsinki/Tampere/Oulu : http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/catalog/10864c/Pyoraily-Kevyet-sahkokulkuneuvot Airwheel, GoZero France Airwheel Boutique, Monistrol sur Loire: http://www.airwheelboutique.fr/ Airwheel Airwheel France, Paris: http://www.airwheel-france.com/index.php Airwheel AlterMove, Lille / Lyon: http://www.altermove.com/vehicule/solowheel.html Beepre, Rool'in, Solowheel Decathlon, 260 stores in France: http://www.decathlon.fr/solowheel-electrique-id_8303597.html Solowheel E-Bicycle, Paris: http://www.e-bicycle.fr/gyropode.php eWheel Fastwheel, Paris: http://www.fastwheel.fr/site/fastwheel/ Fastwheel Fastwheel France, ?: http://monocycle-electrique-fastwheel.fr/index.php/magasin-monocycles-electriques/ Fastwheel Firewheel France, Toulouse https://fire-wheel.eu/en/ Firewheel, Gotway, IPS, Airwheel Funnybike / E Roue, Paris: http://funnybike.fr/ Gotway, F-Wheel, Pukka, Solowheel, Ninebot Gyromax, Rebenacq: http://gyromax.fr/36-roues-electriques Inmotion, Ninebot Gyroroue-shop, Paris: http://gyroroue-shop.fr/ King Song, Rockwheel, Inmotion, Ninebot, and GotWay High'Tems, Beauvais: http://hightems.eu/17-monocycles Ninebot, King Song IPS Boutique, ?: http://www.ipsboutique.fr/ IPS MobilityUrban, : http://www.mobilityurban.fr/gyropode/ Smart Chic, NeWheel, FastWheel, Airwheel, Rockwheel, Legway, Firewheel Ninebot France, Paris: http://www.ninebot-france.com/acheter-louer/boutique/ Ninebot Ninebot France, ?: http://www.ninebotfrance.fr/ Ninebot Norauto, Marseilles/Lyon/Toulouse: http://www.norauto.fr/produit/solowheel-electrique-blanc-1500w_882133.html Solowheel Onebot, Nantes: http://www.onebot.fr/home/9-ninebot-one.html Ninebot Quad-Custom.fr, Noailles: http://www.quad-custom.fr/54-mono-roue-electrique-et-mini-gyropode Pamolod TeamScoot, Monistrol-sur-Loire: http://www.scooter-electrique-urbain.fr/13-monoroue-monocycle Freego, Ninebot, Pukka, Fastwheel, IPS, Airwheel, Rockwheel, Firewheel, Legway, generics... UP & GO, Saint-Étienne: http://www.up-andgo.fr/#!monocycle/c1yc2 UP & GO VIC Electricity, Bobigny: http://vic-electricity.fr/indexsous.html FosJoas Wheelyon, Lyon: http://wheelyon.fr/ Ninebot Germany 1RadWerkstatt, ?: http://www.1radwerkstatt.de/ King Song Electro-Sport, Eichwalde: http://www.electro-sport.de/ Gotway, Firewheel, Ninebot, IPS, Airwheel Free-Wheel, Bonn: http://www.free-wheel.de Ninebot, Airwheel Monowheel-kaufen.com, Glashütten: http://monowheel-kaufen.com Monowheel Monowheel-kaufen.de, ?: http://monowheel-kaufen.de/ Ninebot, Airwheel, Monowheel, generics Ninebot-kaufen, Glashütten: http://www.ninebot-kaufen.com/ Ninebot Ninebot Germany, ?: http://www.ninebot.de/ Ninebot Project42, ?: https://project42.de/6-elektronische-rader Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, King Song Pulox, Cologne: http://www.pulox.de/MonoRover-Elektro-Einrad Mono Rover Scooterhelden, Berlin: http://scooterhelden.de/online-shop Airwheel, Firewheel, GotWay, Inmotion, Monowheel, Ninebot India SuperScooter, Noida: http://superscooter.in/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52 Generic Indonesia Gwendita Shop, Jakarta: http://gwendita.com/98-home-appliance Uniwheel Tokopedia, Jakarta: https://www.tokopedia.com/realdeal InMotion, Ninebot Ireland King Song Ireland, Dublin: https://kingsong.ie/ King Song Project42, (United Kingdom/London) : https://project42.ie/ Airwheel, Firstwheel, Ninebot, InMotion, Uniwheel, King Song Italy Eruota, Padua: http://www.eruota.com/ Gotway, Inmotion Luxembourg Electricity, Luxembourg: http://www.electricity.lu/index.php/fr/catalogue/mono-roues Ninebot Malaysia Asia E-bike, ?: https://www.facebook.com/asiaebike International sells: http://www.asiaebike.com/#!shop--cart/c3al Wind Rider, RockWheel, IPS Airwheel Malaysia, Multiple dealers?: http://airwheelmalaysia.com/ Airwheel Malaysia Airwheel, Shah Alam: http://malaysiaairwheel.com/ Airwheel Malta Techpoint, Birkirkara & Fgura: http://www.myips.eu/ IPS, lease available Netherlands DeVi motion, Obdam: http://www.devi-motion.com/webshop/electric-vehicle/p-1/D1000618--gyroscope-self-balancing-unicycle-(white).html GM-Wheel E-WheelShop, (Belgium/Gistel, affiliate of monowiel.be) http://www.e-wheelshop.nl/en/electric-unicycles/ Ninebot, IPS, InMotion Future Wheels, ?: http://www.futurewheels.eu/ King Song -rebrands: KS-14B 174Wh swappable battery (FutureWheel Noir/Scarlet), KS-14C 800W 680Wh (FutureWheel Force) Monowheels, Dilbeek (Belgium): http://monowheels.be/ Gotway, Huanxi New Zealand Impaq, Auckland : http://www.ipsunicycle.co.nz/where-to-buy/ IPS Norway CoolStuff, Oslo: http://www.coolstuff.no/ Airwheel, Solowheel Teknik Magasinet, (12 cities, check their site): http://www.teknikmagasinet.no/nyheter/sport-fritid IPS, ORB Wheel Ghetto wheels, Oslo: http://ghettowheels.no/ NinebotNinebot.no, Grålum: http://ninebot.no/ NinebotAirwheel Norge, Drammen: http://airwheel.no/ AirwheelTopseller Norway, Stabekk: http://topseller.no/ Ninebot, Hyperoll, Osdrich, SkywalkerCdon.com, ?: http://cdon.no/ Airwheel Poland Electric Transport Group, Świerklaniec, : https://www.electricunicycles.eu InMotion, IPS, King Song, Solowheel eUnicycles / emonocycle, Wroclaw http://eunicycles.eu King Song Puerto Rico: Airwheel Puerto Rico, Guaynabo: http://www.airwheelpr.com/ Airwheel Singapore Airwheel Singapore: http://airwheelsg.com/ Airwheel ESports: http://esports.com.sg/products/electric-unicycle.html Airwheel, IPS Falcon PEV: http://www.falconpev.com.sg/product-category/electric-unicycles-shop/ Ninebot, Wheelies Ninebot.asia: http://ninebot.asia Ninebot Passion Gadgets: http://www.passiongadgets.com/airwheel-unicycle/aiwheel-ips/ Kaabo, Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, F-Wheel, The Wheelies: http://thewheelies.sg/ Airwheel, Gotway, IPS, Ninebot Slovenia Airwheels, Maribor: www.airwheels.si Airwheel South Africa ElectricWheels, Cape Town/Johannesburg/Pretoria: https://www.electricwheels.co.za/ KingSong, Gotway, Airwheel, Inmotion OddWheel, ?: http://oddwheel.co.za/product-category/unicycles/electric-unicycles/ Airwheel Spain Airwheelshop.es, unknown: http://airwheelshop.es/ Airwheel Air Wheel Shop, Campanillas (Malaga): http://www.air-wheel-shop.com/3-1-roue Airwheel, iGo, Hotard MediaMarkt, 76 stores, check site: http://tiendas.mediamarkt.es/ciclos-electricos Ninebot, Run&Roll MoCycl, Barcelona: http://www.mocycl.com/shop/ Mocycl Tienda Ninebot, Bilbao: https://www.tiendaninebot.com/ Ninebot Sweden CoolStuff, Malmö: http://www.coolstuff.se/ Airwheel, Solowheel Flash Store, Hestra: http://kingsong.ulcraft.com/ King Song Green Ride Store, Uppsala: http://www.greenridestore.com/ Gotway, Orb3t, Sbot (Ninebot/King Song/IPS to be added later?) Gyroway, ?: http://www.gyroway.se/ Gyroway, InMotion, Ninebot Teknik Magasinet, (Almost 40 cities, check their site): http://www.teknikmagasinet.se/produkter/sport-o-fritid/eldrivna-fordon IPS, MonoWheel (rebrand of IPS?), ORB Wheel Switzerland Cycletec, Küsnacht: http://www.cycletec.ch/velos-und-e-bikes/solowheel-einrad Ninebot, Solowheel E-Ride, Zurich/Horgen, Bern, Geneva: http://www.e-ride.ch/en/ Firstwheel, Ninebot, Airwheel Einrad Shop, ?: https://www.einradshop.ch/einrad-shop/de/87-e-einrad IPS Kite-Shop.ch, Goldau: http://www.kite-shop.ch/de/evo-skates-elektro-kickboard-trotti/e-balance-scooter IPS LED Workshop, Thörigen: http://ledwerkstatt.ch/produkt/stehroller-ninebot-one-e/ Ninebot Mein Solowheel, Schwerzenbach?: http://meinsolowheel.ch/ Solowheel My-Wheel, Frenkendorf: http://www.my-wheel.ch/ Ninebot, IPS Rollster, Oberkulm: http://rollster.ch/ninebot-one Ninebot SBUV3, Unterwasser: http://www.sbuv3.ch/index.php/de/ Solowheel, Hovertrax, SBUV3 Stay Mobile, multiple dealers/cities: http://www.stay-mobile.ch/dealers.html Ninebot Superwheel, Winterthur: http://www.superwheels.ch/ Superwheel The Airwheel, E-Ride affiliate?: http://theairwheel.ch/ Ninebot, Fastwheel, F-wheel WheelzWorld, Carouge: http://www.wheelzworld.com/welcome.php Gotway United Kingdom Airwheel UK, London: http://www.theairwheel.com/shop/ Airwheel Personal Electric Transport, London: https://personalelectrictransport.co.uk Acton, Ninebot, Inmotion, E-Twow, Egret, Citybug, PET, Gotway, IPS Poolmarket Bristol: https://www.poolmarket.co.uk/ - Ninebot, Minimula, Xiaomi Project42, London: https://proj42.co.uk/ Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, Kingsong, Acton, Minimula Speedy Feet, Gloucestershire: http://www.speedyfeet.uk Ninebot, Gotway Tokatron, London: http://tokatron.com/ Rebrands (looks like Gotway, Huanxi, Macwheel (which is a low-powered Firewheel-copy)) WheelGo, London: http://www.wheelgo.com/ IPS, Inmotion Yorkshire Airwheels, Harrogate: http://yorkshireairwheels.co.uk/ Airwheel, Gotway United States Airwheel USA, (unknown): https://theairwheelusa.com/ Airwheel ElectricUnicycles.co New York, NY: https://www.electricunicycles.co Ninebot, Inmotion, Rockwheel EUniProShop, Seattle VA: http://www.euniproshop.com/ Super Wheel eWheel, New York NY(?): http://www.ewheel.net/ AirWheel, eWheel. Freeman, Ninebot, Rockwheel, Firewheel eWheels.com, Miami, FL: ewheels.com InMotion, King Song, Gotway Future Unicycle, Buffalo WY: http://futureunicycle.com/ Solowheel, IPS, King Song, InMotion, Ninebot Hoodriderz, New York NY: http://www.hoodriderz.com/?referral=eucf Ninebot How We Roll Wheels, Jacksonville Beach FL: http://www.howwerollwheels.com Ninebot InMotion USA, ??? : https://www.myinmotion.com/ InMotion/Solowheel Juiced Wheels, St. Louis MO: https://www.juicedwheels.biz/ King Song MenWheel, Blue Bell PA: http://www.menwheel.com/product-category/electric-unicycle/ MenWheel On Balance Outdoor, Highland Park IL: http://www.commute-connect.com/electric_unicycles_skateboards.html SBU, Solowheel OneSeven, Siloam Springs, AR: http://www.oneseven.xyz/ Gotway, IPS Raijin Cycles, Tampa, FL: https://raijincycles.com/ Gotway Solowheel Seattle, Seattle WA: http://www.solowheelseattle.com Solowheel Tec Toyz, Santa Clara, CA: http://tec-toyz.com/ Gotway The ebike store, Portland OR: http://www.ebikestore.com/index.php?id_product=160&controller=product&id_lang=1 SBU
  45. 23 points
    We've taken back the broken V10 sample and diagnosed it, here is what we found and going to do: 1. Problem: The battery BMS was broken because of water went inside the battery cells pack. Actually this sample was one of the very first prototype which didn't have a decent waterproof protection with the shrink wrap of the battery cells. It had been used for the V10 official video shooting in LA and the demo ride in Seattle, and it's raining during 3/19-3/22 when we shot in LA. 2. Solution: For the mass production available for customers, we've a sealed shrink wrap and went through the IP 55, so it's already not a problem now. Here are some photos:
  46. 23 points
    Greetings Forum, I'd like to apologize for not keeping up here this month, it's been an especially busy period & I've been stretched somewhat thinly lately. I am delighted to announce @Joey Serrin will be joining eWheels. Joey has established a phenomenal reputation with his exceptional know-how, abilities & creative inventive mind that will help increase the capacity & reach of the business. Joey's mastery of the Electric Unicycle will ensure eWheels will also have unrivalled servicing & repair capabilities, as well as improved communication times for our Customers. Over the next month we will be offering several new accessory lines, such as custom pedals, improved padding, & handle kits for the King Song 18S & Gotway Monster, there are some other exciting projects in works which will be announced over the coming weeks.
  47. 23 points
    I am back from Las Vegas after attending the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) and here to report on EUCs as I did last year. Unfortunately the showings of EUCs has dramatically decreased from last year. Kingsong dropped out this year. Only EUC companies that were there were Segway (ninebot), Swagtron, and Jyro. Fastwheel and Airwheel were there too but they weren't even displaying any EUCs but instead focusing on skateboards and 2 wheel scooters. And I didn't see one EUC from any other cheap chinese brand. It's a telling sign on the poor general mass market state of EUCs. Even the companies that were displaying EUCs did not focus on them which I'll go into more here. Skip to the very bottom for videos. I bought my Msuper V3 and Kingsong 16A with me to Vegas. Shipped it by Fedex which the shipping wasn't too expensive. Would be much better to just take it on the plane.... but anyways on to the EUCs. Segway (Ninebot) So after ninebot bought Segway, they quickly realized that Segway has more branding power than Ninebot. Hence why officially Segway Inc. was listed for CES and not Ninebot. They were showing off the Ninebot One S1 and had a young kid ride it around in their booth. Unfortunately the old head honcho would not allow me to ride it at all even after signing their waiver to ride their products. He was basically an asshole to me about it and basically did not believe/trust me that I could ride an EUC. Even after he saw my gotway and kingsong, he argued back to me "Oh I see you already have wheels yourself, you don't need to try the ninebot"...... most arrogant stupid crap I've ever heard when the entire point of going to a show like this is to promote and sell your product. He also said they offer training on their large two wheels with handles Segway but not the S1. This furthers hammer home that there is no push to get EUCs on the mass market when the biggest company with an EUC actively shuts potential customers down test rides and instead offer rides and training for their non-EUC products. Segway just left a very bad taste in my mouth after that and now I'm more motivated to show off the capabilities of the EUC anytime I see a Segway rolling down the street now. Jyro So at the corner of the hall was this new American company called Jyro. They had a whole product line of scooters, one wheel skateboards, and EUCs. But all of their products are just Chinese OEM rebranding. And in the case of their EUCs, they were just the Inmotion V3 and Inmotion V5F. The main marketing guy even admitted that they were Inmotion products but that they adjusted the firmware of their wheels and that they have an app (which he wouldn't show me). Both wheels felt exactly like the regular Inmotion products though. Oh and no one at their booth could ride and show off the EUCs. One of their employees barely was able to ride the twin-wheel V3. Oh and their one wheel skateboard is basically a knock-off of One Wheel. SWAGTRON The people at Swagtron really have a lot of money and marketing going for them. They were one of the first ones to jump on the "hoverboard" craze by offering their "Swagway". With the implosion of "hoverboards" this past year, they really have doubled down on not only staying in the market but offer new revised "better" hoverboards and just new ridables which include their EUC, the "Swag Roller"..... which again is basically an InMotion V3. Although they did change it enough to where it does look a little nicer. They did get UL certification though which they proudly displayed at their booth. They also displayed their booth babes riding around on all their products (except for the EUC) and also had the hoverboard boy dancing group do their dancing routine on their hoverboards. Like Jyro, no one could ride the EUC. But after the dance group finished their routine, I showed those guys Damien Gaumet's EUC trick video and they were blown away by it and immediately started to try to ride the EUC. So maybe this year we might see a dance video featuring EUCs by them? Swagtron's EUC basically rode like the Inmotion V3. They said they were going to sell it for $400 but didn't have any plan to release it. Special Treats HONDA actually brought their self balancing seated "EUC" the uni-cub. I first saw this over 5 years ago and was excited to see it displayed and even more excited to actually ride it. it handled similar to an EUC but this one also balances left and right for you. Because of that, it is possible to strafe left and right but I was never able to fully strafe with my time on it. But it was still very easy to ride but with just a top speed of 4 mph. I almost overleaned the unit by testing its speed while another guy actually did bust his ass trying to do the same. Another fun treat was when I ran into RYNO Motor guys on the sidewalk outside of the Convention. First time I've even seen these in person although I didn't ride. It was very funny to see the size of the RYNO next to my Msuper V3 but knowing that the Msuper is much faster which a longer range. Even though it was cool to see the RYNO, it still represents an over-engineered product that will never see mass market adoption as a practical form of personal transport. SIDENOTE: As I was leaving from the airport, I saw a 3 wheel electric scooter about to board the plane. Talked to the guy on it and he was their to just transport it back home after CES. He wasn't using it for any disability. I asked him how he was allowed to bring it on the plane and he said that his brother took care of all of that. This product uses a lead-acid battery though so that may be the difference? And that was basically it as far as Unicycle-like devices at CES 2017. Got to meet Jason McNeil which is always a pleasure to meet someone else as passionate about EUCs as you. But hopefully that passion translates over the general public soon, if at all. There have been several threads on this forum already but we as an EUC community really need to do everything that we can to promote EUCs not just as a fun activity, but as an actual useful and practical personal transportation vehicle not for the future, but RIGHT NOW. That is why I ride not only on sidewalks but also on city streets with cars to show that I am no different than a regular cyclist on the road. It also helps encourage positive views in the minds of police and lawmakers to accept these EUCs on everyday life. I'll leave with two videos, one of EUCs at CES and one of us riding in and around Las Vegas.
  48. 23 points
    Apologies everyone for lack of activity over the past couple weeks: I've been recovering from a broken rib & some other minor injuries sustained from a GW MCM4 cutting out from under me... This was the first year I had the opportunity to travel out to Vegas for CES, mainly for the purpose to meet some business colleagues & catch-up with the rising star of the eWheels world, King Song. In the two years since I've been working with eWheels, it was the first occasion I opted to forego flying with a Wheel owing to the general hoverboard travel ban—those three days were the longest period I have been without a Wheel, & have to say that being demoted to pedestrian status is like superman being stripped of his superpowers, not something any of us Wheelers would willing surrender In contrast to other tradeshows, what probably distinguishes this year's event from the others is the notable absence of those manufacturers one would expect to be here; with no representation from Inmotion, AirWheel, IPS, GW & only the Ninebot P at the Segway/Ninebot booth [Correction: MV informs me that AW do have a presence at one of the other exhibit halls]. It is my belief that this diminution of enthusiasm is healthy for the industry, which needs serious Wheel makers to focus & concentrate on improving quality & sophistication of the single-wheel platform without trying to jump onto every new craze in the personal mobility market (AirWheel is a classic example of this lack of focus). It's difficult to see how another format of a self-balancing vehicle can better the single-Wheel concept for convenience, ergonomics, convenience, performance & general ride experience. King Song: King Song had their new 16" Wheel at center stage. Improvements from the October prototype: functional LED strips that extend around the sides of the Wheel & an improved durable handle design. In the very confined space one has to try it, I can report that it feels powerful & as would be expected more maneuverable/practical than the 18". However at 16.8kg it's quite a beast to lug around, so that handle will be essential when not ridden. Within the inner workings of the Wheel, I am delighted to announce that they have adopted my suggestion of integrating an active cooling fan that's activated when the board temperature exceeds 50°C. We'll have to test to see how effective this is in practice, since the airflow is fairly restricted—it will be an improvement, the question is is simply how much of one... it's another first in King Song's cap & demonstrate their commitment for innovation & pushing the boundaries with product development. One other important control-board upgrade is that they've doubled the burst capacitor to 2200µF 160106 KS Pedals Video shows the ground clearance turning with the new pedal design. They offer increased foot comfort with a slightly larger surface area & rubberized grippy contacts. 160106 KS Floppy Pedals When in the closed position, the pedals are not quite firmly held shut, Tina says it we be improved in the final release. Either way, it's not really that important. Exposed 16" shell without the side panels: I can't say that the wire strips holding the handle are the best I've seen. 160106 Segway/Nineboot Exhibit Had some interesting conversations with some Sr. Sales Managers—told that there was presence from the Engineering dept. at the show, but I couldn't find anyone... - The Mini Pro is going to be released in the US with exclusive launch on Amazon.com. The distributor is a large tier-one supplier called ESI; these guys are not specialists in mobility transport but they have access to all the top retail accounts like Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc. Rumor is that they're expecting to launch with 50,000 units as the first order. - ESRP will be $1,300 (??!) with an introductory price of $950 on Amazon. I asked the rep if he thought US consumers would be prepared to pay such a high premium if they knew that a lower spec'd version (85kg max vs 100kg for the Pro) of the device is available in China for less than a quarter of the price, $315 vs $1300. Their rather lame excuse is that the US version is more powerful has slightly better range & a higher weight limit—has anyone in market research told the development team that nearly half of the adult male population in the US exceeds the 100kg weight limit?! Another interesting, but I suspect, rather implausible claim, is that in China alone the Mini has already sold 1.5 million units (that's not a typo)! My contacts in China also believe that this is a wild exaggeration; at this figure, even in China, the Mini would be universal & pervasive on the streets & public areas, which, I'm reliably informed, is simply not the case. 160106 FastWheel Ring & Eva FastWheel had a small booth demoing their Ring & improved Eva. The verdict on the Ring is not very good—remember this was a product that was supposed to be available in July of last year. It feels like the gearing system that they've packaged in it is fundamental flawed: it's loose, noisy & generally unrideable. The engineer claims the product remains a work in progress, if they can solve these significant deficiencies of the current design is far from certain. There is much better news about the Eva: around mid-2015 I had the intention of offering the Eva since it was quite cheap, light-weight, & had the right look as well. At that time the Wheel possessed many minor faults but fundamentally the Wheel's wheel handling was simply dreadful. Since then they have added a wider tire, released 26 updates to the Wheel's firmware, increased the pedal height & used a smoother plastic surface for the shell compounded these changes have had a dramatic overall effect, making the Wheel possibly the best in it's class (sub 10kg & $500 USD). It definitely deserves a re-evaluation. Jan 9th Edit: Added section on Ninebot/Segway
  49. 22 points
  50. 22 points
    Hello everybody, glad to write here. I don't know if there is a place for presentation. So i do it here. I'm Hirsute, a circus artist from France and i do freestyle on wheel from exactly one year (i practice a lot...). Here is what i like to do on wheel: (Maybe some of you have already seen this, but for the others....) For those who want to see more video, check my facebook: https://www.facebook.com/wheelhirsute/ I began on july 2015 on a mcm2s, then i have bought a KS14C, a Msuper for off-road, and now a V5+. (Sorry for my english, i don't know if it's correct but i do my best...)
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