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Showing most liked content on 07/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 14 likes
    EDIT: Videos being trimmed
  2. 7 likes
    I just woke up to see these 2 new ‘rapid response’ customer service videos. Over the years I don’t recall any other EUC manufacturer that has provided such expeditious , in depth feedback to address member”s issues and concerns! To the KS rep appearing in the videos (is that you Jack?) you have become a EUC Forum celebrity in my opinion.
  3. 7 likes
    also wanted to mention the S18 appears to have really good heat management when doing slow, steep climbs - at least with a lightweight like me (140lbs/64kg). i found a steep grass hill that varies from 25 to 30% and runs around 75 yards up. My MSX and MSP (speed) can make it up once before going into red temps (over 140F) my 18XL can make it up three times before going into the red the S18 went up four times and was still at 138F - I have no doubt it could make another trip up at that temp, but I didn't see the need to push it up again. I did, however, continue to ride the s18 up a steep paved road at this temp, and the temperature decreased while riding up this incline (probably 6-8%? didn't measure the road). It seems to me the S18 is slow to heat up, fast to cool - and may be one of the better EUC's in terms of heat management. I'll be interested what others find with regard to this as well edit: occurs to me I should mention that to get the wheels to this hill, they have to ride a ways up to begin with, and so the starting temps of these wheels when I begin going up the steep grass slope is different for each wheel. The Gotways are already up in the 120'sF - the 18XL was cooler than that, and the S18 was sitting around 110 when I started. If I really wanted to use this hill as a benchmark - I should probably drive the wheels there, and start them all at a base temp
  4. 5 likes
    I think my wobble issue is resolved. I aired down the tire to the point where I could compress it with my hand, not quite to the point illustrated in EUCGuy's video, but almost. From there, I put the wheel in trolley mode and ran it back and forth for a few minutes, leaning on it with moderate pressure. Following that, the free wheel spinning balance was significantly improved. I aired it up about half way after that and rode it for about 5 minutes, and then aired it back up to what seemed to be spec. Not sure on the psi, as the gauge on the pump that shipped with the wheel may have given out. But regardless, the underlying sensation is basically gone, and yes, I do still feel some wobble, which straightening my legs is extremely effective in eliminating. So, I would score this one as "all of the above". Thanks so much guys!
  5. 5 likes
    already has a mark or two! perhaps a little ambitious riding for a brand new wheel, but in that respect I've been consistent edit: I had my heart set on silver and white - I think black is the better look for the production wheel, but I choose to stick with the white - it is like everyone says, photos just don't do it justice
  6. 5 likes
    I really, really, have no idea. But I like the enduro tire on the Sherman that I have and I not one of those guys that need to try every variation of a product. If something works for me, I'm good.
  7. 5 likes
    So glad your involved and making yourself available to answer member’s questions !
  8. 5 likes
    In a way we're just being picky. Every wheel made (except arguably the Monster) prior to the Sherman shipped with a street tire and we've ridden all over the planet with these wheels.
  9. 4 likes
    ^ I'll get some pictures of my S18 this afternoon... You'll feel better. Learning to ride an EUC for the first time with it, on dirt trail, I'm pretty certain I'm in the lead for "most abused" production S18.
  10. 4 likes
    To each their own, but I used to do this but later had to retrain myself to not do so. If your riding is always asymmetrical, you will be able to turn one direction better than the other (at least that's what I have found). If your goal is to ride off-road trails at relatively high speed, I suggest keeping your stance symmetrical, leaning into turns the same way whether left or right.
  11. 4 likes
    Great... tracking said thursday, and -just now- I get an update "Your package was delayed due to the process of handling lithium ion batteries" This is so frustrating... now Im probably going to have to wait another week... Ive really learned my lesson with picking express air shipments
  12. 4 likes
    All factory installed EUC tires have been hybrids of varying degree. Look at any EUC tire, they all have a solid center ridge and a pattern at the edge. Even the most street oriented tire CY H-5102. It’s the same tire that’s on the Sherman “street” version. But ordering individual tires has a big risk of getting a tire that has been twisted or squeezed for shipping, and they often require quite a bit of work to get running straight. So you could be on point there. Also different tires can react very differently to pressure changes. Pumping a new tire model to your favorite pressure is just the start, you have to test around with different pressures on every tire model to achieve familiar behavior.
  13. 4 likes
    pretty safe to assume Kuji's new video is going to result in a change in these %'s favoring the off road tire. makes one think the Sherman Veteran engineers knew something when shipping all pre-production wheels with the off road, knobby tire
  14. 4 likes
    Missing screws and all my safety gear. Grow a pair fellas.... NOthing happens when you lift the handle while rolling. Same shit on my 18L. Good thing too, asphalt hurts and I had no clue wtf was gna happen. Video is first try, as I was half assed hoping youd get to see a faceplant too. Or for all you uppity types that think its a bad person who enjoys watching crashes, congrats, nothing to see here. Fwiw, I did it with handle ALL the way up and at higher speed. Trolley is enabled in the app settings as well. Vid had to be short to fit tho, and my fukn youtube wont let me login again. Damn floating ip and satellite bouncing ftl. Produce_2.mp4
  15. 4 likes
    This wheel needs to be featured in an upcoming Terminator movie. Awesome look! I found a few prosthetic devices in my lab to showcase the S18 struts. I actually like the color of the actuator motor on the myoelectric hand.
  16. 3 likes
    Finally after 5 weeks of painful waiting, it has arrived! I will skip the common known issues already reported by others (inefficient at slow speeds, lack of low end torque, poor LCD cover glue, motor sheath deforming/melting, pedal dip) contrary to @Marty Backe experience, my wheel fully charged to 101.0V with no issues. It also had a 106.3 kmh no-load speed, consistent with others. I switched between soft and medium mode, and found that medium suits my riding style best with a slight dip which assists while weight shifting, without the disorienting backwards dip of soft mode. Hard mode feels very much like Nikola soft mode (which isn’t all that soft to begin with). My 60 mile ride left me with 84V remaining, and given low battery tiltback is at 76V, I believe it had at least another 20 casual miles in it. I will be doing an even longer range ride this coming weekend with higher sustained speeds to see how the Sherman holds up. What amazes me about this wheel is that Monster-like feeling of being sneaky fast. i thought I was going 20-25 mph but looking at my phone, i was actually traveling 33-35 mph. I will be giving the wheel another 40 miles or so before I push it north of 40 (My top speed was 39.6 mph tonight). The motor whine is irritating at speeds below 20 mph. It is reminiscent of old school Kingsong wheels with that annoying whistling sound, which makes me want to push this wheel simply to get rid of that noise! The weight isn’t as big a deal given there are two handles to lift it by, aside from the awkwardness of lifting it that way. I actually found it easier to lift than my 70lb battery modded Monster 3 given the weight distribution. My wheel arrived with no valve stem cover, or pedal nuts! Luckily, I had spare pedal nuts from a spare set of Gotway pedals, so I wasn’t left being unable to ride. The tire takes some getting used to, but within 15 miles I was aggressively carving and comfortably handling the wheel. The soft compound really absorbs some of the worst road conditions NYC has to offer like a champ. Road noise aside, this is an excellent tire choice, in my honest opinion. With that said, there is absolutely nothing out there that can mate a ~50 mph top speed with 80 real-world “fast” miles. The issues found from the initial run of Sherman’s appear to be identified and corrected for the eWheels initial supply, but I do fear there are some compromises given the change in firmware logic based on feedback. I, for one, do not wish for any firmware changes; they designed this wheel for the street, not off-road (contrary to its utilitarian design). I genuinely hope they do not make any knee jerk firmware changes because it would be a shame to ruin what may potentially be one of the best riding EUCs ever made to date. There is no such thing as a free lunch. You can’t magically make a motor wound for speed have MSP torque to tackle overheat hill. Just understand this is NOT the wheel of choice for those use cases. This is a street demon, plain and simple. If you crave speed, range and stability in a single package for the street, you would be hard pressed to find any real alternatives currently.
  17. 3 likes
    Hi guys ! After owning a Tesla V2 1480Wh for a few months but only starting riding it recently, I think I can finally share my thoughts & hopfully answer some questions about technical specifications regarding the custom battery. Let's start by why I wanted this TS2 and not the 1020Wh. In 2017 I owned a Tesla V1, the first generation, first batch. It was a great EUC, performant and had useful stuff for the city (trolley handle..), it was also at the time the most silent Gotway on the market. After testing and/or owning more recent EUCs, like the Nikola +, MSX, Monster V3, KS16X which are fantastic EUCs to ride bringing a comfort level not possible with older generations, I wanted something more "old school" regarding the handling, something agile, not too heavy but that still had a great range. The ACM 1600Wh that I owned was like that, but it's an old EUC and it's no longer produced, so this TS2 1480Wh was a no brainer if I wanted something that could be almost as portable as my V8 but with much longer range. Before talking about how it handles, how it performs, I need to talk about the battery. I of course heard about some bad custom batteries that could in some conditions take fire, I also heard about some sellers maybe using used cells in their custom battery. Of course I asked the seller how is the BMS & cells, he said they were new & BMS had balance like any other BMS, bit I wanted to make sure. I had some people look after it, and also @LaserEdge , and my conclusions are that despite being a different design from gotway BMS, it's as good as gotways. It has a balance function, it protects the cells from over & under voltage. Regarding the cells themselves, they seem to be fine and not used, the references are li-ion NCA 21700T 18.5Wh, there are 80 in total (40 in each pack). My conclusion about the custom batteries is that they should last long and there shouldn't be more issues than with traditional gotway batteries, but I would still be very carful where I store the EUC and when it charges in order to prevent damage to you or your goods in case a fire would occur. Now about the Tesla itself. It's not exactly the same as the other TS V2 I have seen so far. Why ? Because the speaker is different. It seems to be the same speaker as the ones on the MSP, it is not facing outwards through the speaker hole on the right side but it's facing inwards, to the motor. So far no issues but. Also the speaker hole on the shell on the left side could let water through so you need to at least put some tape on it, it's a little design flaw in my opinion. The speaker itself produces some "OK" sound, it could be a little louder because it's hard to hear if you go above 18mph. I don't use it much but it's good to know it's here if I need it. The cut-off switch works perfectly, some riders said to me it's a little loose but it does it's job. The front light is the same as the ones on the MSX, I would have liked the same as on the MSP or the Nikola. Still no rear light, I personaly added a rear light that is wired to the board so I don't have to think about charging an external light. Even if the light rings on the side can be seen from behind, I think that during night time this isn't enough for safety and I would have liked to see an improvement here. The trolley is still the same as on the V1, I like it. It may be a little short for tall people but for me it's fine. Pedals are now colored in black like any other gotways, they are 13cm above the ground, so a little higher than on the MCM5 for example but still you will probably scrap them in sharp turns. Now for the best part : how it rides ! This is where I love gotways, where they shine, and this TS2 is no different. Acceleration is powerful & smooth. The acceleration I got on the Tesla V1 is a little less than on the V2 but maybe I improved my skills. It does feel a little more powerful, control board is supposed to give a 30% increase in power, I can definitely feel it. Something new is that it beeps around 43kph/27mph when the V1 beeped at 47kph/29mph, but from what I've seen is seems that the safety margin is just bigger and that the top speed is around 54kph/33.5mph (but not recommended at all). I don't ride above 30kph in general so it doesn't matter to me. For comparaison, the Nikola + I had accelerates to 25mph in 3.59s, MSX 84V in 3.81s and this TS2 in 3.51s. The main difference is that I don't have to lean as much with the TS2 because it has a smaller wheel diameter and it's lighter. The motor is very silent (as much as a Nikola), it has no vibrations at any speed (I had some on my MCM5 & MS3) it's a 1900W not 2000W, but it's more than enough for most riders who need a great city commuter. The best thing about this TS is that it handles like a charm. It is very easy to turn, almost no effort is needed unlike on bigger EUCs with "3" inch diameter wheels. The added weight compared to the V1 (about 2kg) is not noticable at all, it seems to be very balanced. The lower pedals have the advantage to give better stability at very slow speeds, making it easy to travel at walking speed, very convenient when you are in a flow of pedestrians. The range is...excellent. With my testings as was able to get, at about 20kph/12.4mph speed 120km/74.5miles with 11% battery. I had a little headwind. Of course for long rides this EUC is not as comfortable as bigger EUCs with big wheels, or with suspensions or both, but it's not meant to be. I think that this is an EUC you get to have a great city commuter, that you can take with you in any store, in a car or a train, conveniently. You get a good speed, good breaking & acceleration performances with a very agile machine and you can still occasionaly go on longer rides. I would not recommend this TS for someone who want to do 50+ miles rides all the time, it can do it but it's not as comfortable. To summerize, this TS2 1480Wh is an EUC that is meant to be ridden in the city. It is great for those who want an EUC that you can bring with you everywhere with ease. It can be a great upgrade for a KS16S, KS14S, ACM, Ninebot E+...for those who want good range out of a city wheel with the traditional 16x2.125 tire. It has all the things you want from a city EUC (speaker, cut-off, trolley, usb port) and it's minor design flaws are easy fixes. The custom batteries seems to be well made (don't take my word for it however and still be very careful especially during recharge) and should be long lasting. I love this EUC after more than 500km, it's my go-to EUC, but of course no EUC is perfect and like I said, it's not meant for long journeys despite being able to, it's your pocket all-in-one EUC !
  18. 3 likes
    Too many people took the option this time. I don;t know the actual numbers but picture this, 100 wheels need to leave Hong Kong. You can only put one or two wheels on each plane going to the US and then only if it has fill in the blank and does not have fill in the blank. Your wheel is waiting in line for the next plane that fits the requirements. My wheel crossed the Pacific while Rehab1's crossed the Atlantic. We only live a few states apart.
  19. 3 likes
    I used the DarknessBot to change the speed. I checked the KS app after posting and it would not change the speed. I started at 51, no 30, no 20 yes , 25 no 21 yes 22 no - 21 it is then.
  20. 3 likes
  21. 3 likes
    Jack, would it be possible for you to have the engineers specify the screws that they are using in all the different places? For example the bolt that holds the pedals is probably a DIN 912 M5 x 16 (or something similar) This would help us locate the screws at our local hardware store if needed.
  22. 3 likes
    Really impressed to see a video response to some concerns so quickly!
  23. 3 likes
    Thanks @Jack King Song for making these videos to help answer our questions.
  24. 3 likes
    I am always skeptical of design changes, but I am warming up to how they changed this one. I know, its very rare I like something new, but I think its the best compromise for a trolley this low. Being able to snatch the wheel up easily without having to find that button with my thumb, will prove a safety benefit. I can tell that it could be hard to hit that button and lift, while moving or from different angles. THink about how seamless it is on the 18l style. YOu pull up to steps, stop, grab handle and carry it. No mucking about with buttons or anything. Now imagine if you had to push that button down and stop it at first click, THEN lift. Its doesnt sound much, but its not fluid. Wear on parts too. If i had to push the button on the s18 to lift it, it is not fluid. Also, what if I push the button and lift it but it doesnt stop at the lowest setting? I know, its not much to worry over, but having it lift like it does and go into slow roll mode, seems pretty damn smart. I HATE admitting it, but i can see the logic. I was worried about it falling free spin when lifting it (as in reviews showed us), slow mode fixed it. If theres no drawbacks while riding (not crashing), i call it an improvement. I know the compromise is that it MAY be damaged if it flips up during a roll, but it seems worth the trade. So yeah, kudos to KS for the handle approach. I also got to feel the suspension bounce a couple times finally..... AMAZING so far. Its like riding on a big ole soft tire but not hitting rim. I can only imagine what its going to enable as far as rocky rutted paths...
  25. 3 likes
    Lifting up the handle or it going into lift mode will not cause wheel to cut out. The wheel has to come to a stop, then you have to lift handle into position and you'll hear the classic KS beep before the motor is in lift mode.
  26. 3 likes
    Yup...I can confirm this as well. I did this on my way home from work but at slow speeds. The behavior of the wheel is set up so that the trolley handle will beep and go into the low speed mode only when the wheel is stopped. If the wheel is moving, it will not change the mode or beep. While in low speed mode, if you try to ride it, it will be very spongy and the pedals will start to dip and low speed and continue dipping with more speed. It isn't really rideable in this mode but certainly good enough to walk with or to ride very slowly.
  27. 3 likes
    Yes sir. How close are you? So here it sits. No screws appear missing. In fact it came with bag of extra screws with @ShanesPlanet name attached.
  28. 3 likes
    I've found that the V5F is one of the harder wheels for people to learn on, it's not even in our rotation for our classes any more. V8 is a bit more but we've had great success training people with it and it's a bit easier to sell second hand when it's time to move up to something larger.
  29. 3 likes
    You can start with any wheel. The V11 is is a good bet if you want to keep it for a long time. But futureproofing purchases in a fast moving tech is usually not a good idea. Just make sure you keep the resale value. There will be many more wheels on the market in coming years. I disagree. Your first wheel will get crashed a lot and the cheaper (and lighter), the less you will be afraid about it (and so you will learn faster). Also, I think that people should start with a wheel that's weak and can be relatively easily overbraked/overleaned in safe speeds. Nothing will teach you more about the inherent physical limits like sitting on your bottoms after overbraking from a not-so-steep hill. So, I would grab a cheap and possibly used wheel like Inmotion V5(F), Ninebot S1/2 (or similar, ~10 kg, under 600W) ride it for a few months and only then went for V11. Which will get out of its toothing pains by then and you will have a better idea what do you want from your wheel. And you can either keep the first wheel as a backup afterwards, or sell it to someone else. Quite likely you will find a new buyer among your friends. :-) EDIT: I did about 500 or 600 km on the V5F before upgrading, and I consider it a good first wheel. Its range is good enough to do trips longer than to your nearest market, fast enough so you are not feeling like a turtle, but still cheap (in comparison with wheels like V11) and not dangerously fast.
  30. 2 likes
    Wanted to post this info for peeps new to the V11. The fast charger sold by ewheels that charges the V10 will not work with the V11. Chatted with Jason per this info already. I had a V10 and used the fast charger with it. While the charger plugs appear to be physically the same, the electrical pinout for voltage is different. I verified this with a multimeter to be sure. Some pics are included. Here's the skinny. The fast charger has 84V+ on pin 1 and 84V- on pin 2. The new charger included with the V11 has 84V+ on pin 1 and 84V- on pin 3. One pic shows both charging plugs side by side. The fast charger plug is on the left, new V11 charger plug on the right.
  31. 2 likes
    Rule #1.....Never Ever transition from riding a Mten3 for 2 weeks straight to riding the S18. Minor mishap but I feel much better now that I have my first scratch out of the way. Set @18mph using DarknessBot. No wobbles. I did have to widen my stance as I don’t like the padding touching my legs. Upper chamber=200 psi, lower set at 110 psi to begin with. Rebound is 1/2 turn from full ccw. No methodology behind my settings. I’m 75 kg so these settings appeared to be midrange. My wife is calling. I’m out of here.
  32. 2 likes
    I agree with most if not all of what u wrote! Kudos to a very fine review. The Tesla V2 1480 was my first foray into EUCs & I started riding this spring. Even with no reference points on EUC quirks, I found my TS V2 super maneuverable at low speeds (for mixing with pedestrians on sidewalks) & fairly fast runs (45kph tops but most round 25-40kph) on reasonably smooth bike lanes. I haven't done much offroad as while I found it decent on smoother lazy fireroad type trails, its not a wheel for the rough stuff. Being addicted from the 1st ride (at the 1st hello😋), I thought about upgrading to a better wheel. After some thought in defining better, I found that I don't really need a faster wheel per se as my local laws frown on road riding with cars so how much faster can I go on bike lanes. While more range is always better, I can't see myself going more than 80kms/ride. Atleast these caveats hold true for now. After pondering on power wheels like the Sherman, 100vMSX & even celebrated allrounders like the100v Nikola+, KS 18xl/16x, I realized that each has it pros & cons. Regardless I was almost on the verge of pulling the trigger on the Sherman (due to all the raves) when epiphany hit. Why have one to maybe do it all when I can have 2 or maybe more do it all & do it well. To make it short, I ended up keeping the Tesla V2 & ordering an Mten3 & an S18 as a one wheeled MTB for the tech trails that I used to enjoy. To summarize, the Tesla is a great city wheel. It's light enough to carry up stairs, has a great trolley to wheel around, reasonably fast (for non NYC boyz that is), has good range & easy to ride even for rookies. Besides adding diy Kuji pads so I can do bunny hops on curbs & stuff, all I have done is ride..... PS: @Pingouin may I ask how the 'ell are u able to ride at 20kph for 120klicks??? I don't doubt the 120km range but I fully admit the process to get there is beyond me.
  33. 2 likes
    If you play that back frame by frame, it looks like the only reason the pedal clips is because the tire slips first which then caused the wheel to lean further than intended. I don't think suspension would have done much in this scenario. (not saying that suspension wouldn't make riding safer in many other scenarios)
  34. 2 likes
    Here’s my long winded shipment report (4 pages) beginning on 7/20. (Not in descending order)
  35. 2 likes
    So just to be clear. Those few mins has not even bought up some curiosity how this V11 would be to ride. Now admitted the demo wheel is a little obsolete since there are so many details that has changed to production and the later 2nd batch. It is too bad you didn't get to ride it more.
  36. 2 likes
    Tarkennus että IP ei ole sertifikaatti, eli kukaan ulkopuolinen taho ei testaa laitteiden IP-tasoja vaan se on täysin valmistajan itsensä ilmoittama arvo.
  37. 2 likes
    Im in metro detroit area. For whatever reason my package was at "label created" for 7 days before UPS got it, so that's probably what caused it.
  38. 2 likes
    I think everyone will need screws over time so I ordered this handy little thread checker device that determines the exact thread size for both SAE and metric. You’ll still need to determine the proper length but removing a screw/bolt from a similar location should provide that dimension. Where are you located?
  39. 2 likes
    Thanks brother. I’ll try it. Still though it’s remarkable stupid we have to do that.
  40. 2 likes
    Well, he starts off the 2nd video by saying "hey guys its Jack..." so I guess we can now put a face to the name which is always nice.
  41. 2 likes
    Just want to say I appreciate you responding in this thread more than you know.
  42. 2 likes
    My theory: Kuji had a low budget street tire that was unbalanced, causing wobbles at high speed. Just the tube not fitting well inside can cause this. I wouldn't be surprised if someone does a video with an ewheels street tire and says there is less wobbles than with the off road tire.
  43. 2 likes
    changing to a higher center of gravity (higher pedals) will increase the chance for a wobble - I noticed this on the MSP when I first started riding it (having higher pedals than my 18XL). But all that time on the MSP must of helped, because I had almost no wobble issues going right up to 30 mph, braking hard, repeating. I felt it kinda wobble a couple times, but nothing uncontrollable. I'm assuming everything is as it should be on your wheel - if that isn't the case, then my experience isn't got to be much of a help. But if your wheel is solid, it will just take time to gain that comfort. Just ride to your comfort level. I noticed with the shocks you want to fill them to where you want, then remove the valve (pump), then re-attach the pump to see where the levels actually end up. When you unscrew the valve, air is lost from the chambers - So I found that over filling both chambers could then lead to the correct amount of pressure in each tank after unscrewing the pump from the shock. You might want to add more pressure than you think to the negative chamber (bottom one). I'm about your weight, and filled to your #'s (overfilling each chamber so that when I unscrewed it and some air was lost, I knew where it ended up) - and found the rebound was better. Also make sure the rebound dial (red dial up top) is spun most (or all) the way counter clockwise (faster rebound) - if it's set all the way clockwise that reduces the rebound.
  44. 2 likes
    Thanks, but I know its not right on mine. One side had 2 screws and the other had one. THREE screws total for both sides. There's 3 holes on each side that line up in default height position. If i were to change height on pedals, I'd have 4 screws on each side that would fit. I know they arent load bearing, but cmon, its screw holes that line up with threading. As it was, one side of my battery brackets were loose and separated a lot. The horrid screws are just the pedal tab. I dont forsee me needing to remove them for much of anything. I was just troubled by the lack of care in installing something as simple as a plain phillips screw. THANK GOD these people dont work in heavy machinery. I wonder how many workers at KS are aware of wtf a torque spec even is? Perhaps a class in bolts and how torque can mitigate strength, is in order? Or maybe just find someone who gives a shit, as even a nerd could probably tell this wasnt right. The assembly worker saw what he left behind when he was done, yet chose to call it "good" and move it on down the line. Pathetic display and a lack of give a shit, in my book. Routine maintenance is not so routine, when everything you touch, falls apart after the original build. How many times can we remove these things and still expect them to not turn to dust? How can I NOT worry about the structural integrity, when I see how shoddy they were in building it? MAYBE its only the screws missing that I see, but MAYBE theres tons of shit wrong in there that I dont see. Having faith in them doing it right.... HAHAHA gone and gone. Lets not forget, one side has an inner black shell that is missing ALL its screws. Theres at least 3 of them in there that are supposed to tie into steel rails. One side is tied up, the other....screwless. I can move inner parts by hand a lot, and that doesnt instill much confidence. I wonder if the same person who decided to ignore the screw damage and forget to install screws, was also in charge of much of the inner workings as well? I'll watch the vid and formulate a new plan on airing up the shock. FOr now tho, its moot point as the wheel is not in service until I can comb thru it and find the rest of the build issues to be fixed. I dont need perfection, but I also wouldnt drive a car without checking lig nuts after I found a bunch loose from the factory. It is too bad they couldnt just make the valve easy to get to. I guess the pump AND block need carried, should anyone want to adjust it in route. I wonder if theres any 90degree angle fittings that would work? If it was ANY OTHER COMPANY, I'd assume they would have looked and there is no option. Since we're talking about euc builders, it wouldnt surprise me if a $3 angle could be sourced and fix it right up. Lack of faith/trust is the only reason I assume theres a simple solution they just chose not to bother with.
  45. 2 likes
    Well I think as many people will answer this question, the 1.25x different answer will come from it. Now I have not yet ridden a V11, so please keep that in mind. I see 2 things that works against the V11 as a starter wheel. A ) the suspension, make it harder to baby pad up the wheel while learning. B ) the weight lifting up the wheel (and not yet knowing where EUC can take you) So my recommendation would currently be, get a simple wheel light yet with a little range and not too fast. Eg. V8f. This can act in tandem once you know how to ride and for those times where a heavy wheel isn't ideal. So view this as your "compact light" wheel. You are like to get hooked on EUC. Most does once they get over the first learning curve. And most don't just stick to one wheel. Also why not to get a fast wheel at first? Your mind and body needs miles on EUC to react instinctive to bad thing happening. Better to get these lessons at low speed as crashes at 20kmh+ can a permanent impact. You can gear up but higher speeds hit just such harder. Now back to the V11 there is a queue for these still and starting to ride now is easier to upgrade to V11 once it is available more widely and next batches only improve from initial feedback. It took me 2 months to out grow my V8. But I am glad I didn't have my buttom fall (practicing emergency braking) at 50kmh (it was hard enough at 28-30kmh) Also my shoulder incident happed at 25ish kmh had I been riding my KS18L at 50kmh my should would be much worse. Yes not all crash. But crashes are part of the learning process to teach you respect that EUC are a bit different (do not share crash mechanics with mc). The reason I don't suggest 2nd hard is that it is hard as new rider to judge if there is an issue with the wheel or if you did something wrong. Once mistrust is there you can't ride with pleasure. I think my point here is why Inmotion advertised the V11 for pro riders. To avoid it for 1st wheel selections. I don't think that pro label is that important. But as a 1st wheel. I am not sure it is a good idea, but it can be done. I am sure of it. Sorry for the long answer. Also look up speedyfeet how to select a wherl guide. Setting up what you want from a wheel makes it easier to narrow down options. But be prepared that your needs/wants/nice to share list will change properly a lot once you have learned to ride.
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    According to the manual, the Sherman can be charged at 10-amps. It doesn't say explicitly but I assume the intention is to use one 5-amp charger for each charging connector. So if you had a single 10-amp charger then I would use a splitter. If you wanted to upgrade the charging connectors, it's doable but will require a lot of work. You'll have to remove the control board which means totally disassembling the Sherman (including splitting the shell).
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    Moi kaikille! Olen uusi tällä foorumilla. Luin 72 sivua teidän viestejä. Se taitaa olla henkilökohtainen ennätys. Minulla ei ole euc-ä vielä, ja siksi oli erittäin mielenkiintoinen lukeminen. Olette tehnyt hienoa työtä pitämällä euc-ä kiinnostuneita yhdessä ja ajan tasalla. Tavoitteena on myydä auto ja alkaa ajaa sähköisellä vehkeellä töihin ja kotiin. Aluksi ajattelin, että euc on juuri oikea väline siihen, mutta koska olen lukenut foorumiviestit, olen alkanut epäröidä sitä. Ongelmana on laitteiden laatu ja suoja vesisateelta. Haluan päästä töihin ja kotiin myös vesisateella. Segway-Ninebot on ainoa yritys, joilla on IP-sertifikaatit, mutta kyseinen yritys ei valmista enää tasapaino laitteita. Jäljellä olevista yrityksistä InMotion on ainoa, joka kertoo yksipyörissä olevista IP suojauksista. Heillä ei oikeastaan ole virallista sertifikaattia, vain, he ovat tehneet omat testauksensa ja väittävät että he saisivat IP sertifikaatin, jos laitteet päätyisivät virallisesti testeihin. Mikään jäljelle jäävistä yrityksistä - King Song, Gotway jne - ei omista minkälaisia IP sertifikaatteja. Tilanne näyttää olevan huono. Vai mitä mieltä te olette asiasta? Miten yksipyöräiset ovat teillä kestäneet? Pystykö näillä ajamaan Uusimaalla ympäri vuoden?
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    KIngsong s18 and Inmotion v11 are competing since very few ppl can afford both wheels. So they compare is my best guess. evX believes suspension is the future, but Inmotions design is better since there is more room for batteries and more range as a consecvense of that.
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    I’ve helped push this to my engineers. It’s on our plan, please show your support by clicking the Bluetooth link as it proves how many users are interested in getting rid of these sounds.
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