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Showing most liked content on 01/14/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 likes
    Update: I spoke with Inmotion USA about the issue. They stated that the difference between the actual voltage and the control board reported voltage is common and didn't seem to be a reason for concern. They also confirmed that the new pedals are stronger than the old ones. I ordered the new pedals and a new side panel as I cracked mine getting it off :-/. Anyways I will update once I get the parts with pictures of the old and new so we can compare.
  2. 4 likes
    Sadly, same terrible trolly design... No word on waterproofing (those speakers placement, as shown have me wondering about how long they will last). No word on peak power, or the batteries in use. Be interesting to see it comparison to the new Rockwheel Iron Korea which they are claiming is a 3000W motor and 92v ( )
  3. 4 likes
    My thoughts exactly. But since they announce such enormously high speeds, it is reasonable to expect that the control board has been beefed up accordingly. And of course, riding at 45mph vs 35-40mph will of course feel different. I have zero doubt that this wouldn’t be a more powerful wheel than the current 100V MSX. Just that it’s not the wattage rating of the motor that makes the difference, or even gets you to those speeds. Can you explain exactly what it is that you feel being different on a motor that is stamped 2500W instead of 2000W? Larger current peaks? Higher voltage? Higher PWM duty cycle? More instantaneous transient power delivery? The problem is, until the 2200W 18XL, we have had zero chance to compare only motors of different power rating. If you compare a MSV3 to a MSX, it’s a different wheel in so many other regards that you can’t isolate what the more powerful motor feels like. Think about a more familiar source of wattage, a stereo system. Or even laptop speakers. How would you know if I secretly upgraded the amp section to one that’s twice as powerful? Would you hear it? How would you test the difference? If you compare a 100W stereo system to a 10W boombox, you will mostly hear different speakers, not the wattage. (Edit: Actually, my analogue is wrong. Motor is just the speaker in a stereo system, not the amp. The controller is the amp that provides the power. If there is no further power available from the controller/amp, the wattage rating of the motor/speakers doesn’t matter one bit, be it 100W or a trillion watts. It still doesn’t get any louder.) I tried to answer this to the best of my skills in my previous post and above the quote. I hope it will seed some root and keep you guys out of the stupid marketing BS of ”wattage”. What do you think about how the 2200W motor upgrade on the 18XL was ”felt”? I hear it felt really strong. And I mean the impact when the riders hit the ground because the wheel no longer had the same power near top speed than the 2000W motor had. Yeah, there we go. They had to make it seem upgraded somehow. And wattage is the easiest, since no-one will hold you accountable, as only a handful of customers even understand what the number represents.
  4. 3 likes
    After about 6-7 practice sessions on the wheel, I felt that I was ready to try commuting. This morning I rode 1.25 miles to the train station and then 0.75 miles from the train to my office. All in all it went well. Just a few observations: 1. It's dark at 6:40am and the lights on the KS-14D are simply not enough to see obstructions on poor roads. I need to put my bike headlamp on the helmet. 2. The 14D crosses railroad tracks just fine. I didn't even notice it. 3. The wheel is bigger that I thought - it just barely fits between my legs when seated in the train. 4. People / pedestrians are the biggest danger. You never know when someone will turn around or step backwards without looking. I made it to work safe and unscathed. The return journey could be interesting as it is likely to rain.
  5. 3 likes
    If you can afford it, start with a bigger wheel. Just invest in a lot of bubble wrap for the first 1000km. There are two wheels for us fat folks: KS18L/KS18XL and MSX. Both of them will give you around 50-60km of range on one charge. Bigger wheel means bigger stability - my MSX is way more stable than my previous KS16S. I regret buying KS16S - I pretty much destroyed it, it wasn't sturdy enough. Since you plan to ride slowly, a normal 84V version would be better for you - the only advantage of 100V is more speed. Both of those wheels should keep their value quite well if you ever decide you don't like unicycling. And if you are able to buy second hand, even better. :-) Actually, since you plan to just do minimal offroad, KS18XL would probably be better - KingSongs have really good, 10/10 trolley handles. Meanwhile, MSX's handle is only 5/10. InMotion doesn't have an 18' wheel and Ninebot One Z10 is not a good wheel from what I've read.
  6. 2 likes
    There's loads of info out there but it's difficult finding it. If we had a wiki section that was maintained by users then we could build a useful knowledge base that anyone could dip into. Forum users should be allowed to edit pages to keep them up to date. It might be worth having some form of restriction on users to ensure people don't just register and then delete everything. There are loads of topics which could be included but here's a few: Guides to the various apps available (Inmotion, KS, Gotway, EUC World, Wheellog etc) User written manuals for wheels Guide to battery management Maintenance topics How do EUCs work .... Topics could be added and maintained by users over time.
  7. 2 likes
    Wrist guard gloves like the Gyroriderz or Hillbillys are exactly that, they have an exposed slide plate at the palm, and a splint at the opposite side. And usually made of leather for good abrasion resistance. @seage, your learning video is a perfect example why I don’t recommend anyone to use a strap to catch the wheel when having to jump off. This clip shows perfectly why both hands should be free!
  8. 2 likes
    I commute daily and usually carry a flashlight in one hand when it’s dark. It’s easier to maneuver and helps with flashing side mirrors on cars, directing traffic, etc. I suggest getting a flashing vest or alike so people can spot you more easily.
  9. 2 likes
    I have successfully upgraded my 18XL from 1.13 to 2.0 and everything went well .... (for this I used KS android application version 3.1.8 on S6 phone) - I have 4 different situation of lights settings....I'm happy with the first one (AUTO) - there is NO red light when charging and wheel it self it's OFF (there is no point to keep it ON while charging) - calibration was needed after upgrade because pedals where 2 degrees tilted forward - that high pitch whine sound it's gone, wheel it's silent now, CPU usage dropped considerable when wheel it's just sitting idle against the wall - I'm very pleased with power delivery when I hit acceleration from slow speeds.....some improvement compared to 1.13 - I sense no speed limitation regarding available power when battery it's near empty (please see video) my 3-rd alarm it's on 40kmh and tilt-back at 42kmh
  10. 2 likes
    It's unlikely that would have happened if you'd been on the wheel I'm guessing it had to do with calibration: maybe due to lack of calibration, the angle you were holding it at was registered by the wheel as forward = acceleration, so it tried to accelerate, and when you held onto the handle to prevent it from moving forward, that and the smooth wooden floor caused wheel slippage, so it went into full-on free-wheel-spin, the same as if you deactivate the lift sensor and lift the wheel in the air. Must have been scary...gives you a degree of respect for how powerful this beast actually is, doesn't it? And to think that a few posts back you were asking about upgrading the motor power... Before calibrating, make sure the wheel isn't going to go nuts on you again. Find a safe place to do this. Lean the wheel against the wall and hold the handle tightly (without lifting) while you switch on the wheel (don't extend the handle). If it tries to run away, either switch it off quickly, or pick it up: if the lift sensor does its job, it'll beep and quit spinning; if not, hold it off the ground while it has its tantrum, until it switches itself off. Do not let it touch the ground while the wheel is spinning like crazy. Once you've established it's not going to try to kill you, you can proceed with calibration. When you click on "calibrate" from the app, the wheel should switch off, or beep, and then you switch it off (I can't remember which). At this point, make sure your wheel is perfectly level, both front to back and side to side (putting it on a stand, a brick under each pedal, etc., is an option). You can use a bubble level app on your phone if you don't have an actual two-way bubble level. When it's perfectly level, switch the wheel back on, trying not to move it. It'll beep a few times and switch back off. Your wheel is now calibrated. And hopefully, no longer possessed by the devil... Keep us posted, and be careful!
  11. 2 likes
    Having spent roughly 500 hours on improving skills like turning and spinning, backwards riding, riding up curbs and down stairs, one legged riding etc. one hint that helped me to prevent some pain: I was padding the sharp edges of the wheel in case they hit me. Wheel bite is a real thing in my experience. Apart from bruises I haven't hurt myself and had my closest calls never while doing tricks. I suggest to practice to get one flat foot on the ground anywhere in a 1m radius around the wheel in any situation. Being always ready to do this helps IMHO a lot to broaden the range of situations that don't bring me down. It also requires to stay low enough to make the flat foot touch ground (before the head ). Lately, when I didn't fully abide by this idea myself it looked like this I stopped wearing protection gear a long time ago and ride with any shoes at hand including sandales. Works for me, but surely mileages vary.
  12. 2 likes
    I thought the same. Mine must be first batch, as I just had simple pressure sensors on bars, when i upgraded trolley. Luckily it works great with no calibrating, but i surely fear it IS just luck and maybe not reliably repeatable, should anything change. Not exactly sure how those sensor work and too lazy to look it up and learn, but experience has shown me that very simple things sometimes need calibrating, as manufacturing tolerances differ, and age takes its toll. What a can of worms the lighting is opening. I didnt pay much attention to it, so I can't make complaints. Mine seems to have the same default as it used to: Headlight auto with red always on and brighter under braking. Lights swap side direction dependant. I need to go for a night ride soon, to see if it bothers me or not. It is VERY dark out here in the country, a little scared to float the road at 1am, as tis not a good idea to freak out the local farmers with wierd moving lights. I rode a wet cowpie field today and it really pushed thru with less problem than last week. It is more important to set my REALISTIC speed warning now, as it is much easier to inadvertantly go faster than you realize. I just hope KS keeps it up for us. The lighting may be a small fiasco, perhaps theres a few more bugs to work out, but all in all, Im going to focus on the improvements. By this summer, I fear I may walk very little and ride aimlessly everywhere. Sieze the day!!! NYCEuc123: If it aint broke, dont fix it! I am new and the 18L with stock motor is MORE than enough oompf. I wouldnt suspect that those of us not constantly hitting the upper 90% of performance ability, would also NEVER utilize the 10% moto size increase. 20mph seems damn fast when youre just standing there. As a sportbike rider, it still seems fast. WElcome to the club, first post and derail, double whammy. Get a cover for yours if you havent. I am convinced it is cheaper than the platic I would have already broken, without it.
  13. 2 likes
    The mini wheel at 10:25 is amazing!
  14. 2 likes
    I actually learned how to do that as I learned to mount I learned to ride the hard way: mounting directly, with no support. Many people seemingly use support to mount. They learn to ride, and later learn how to mount. I wasn't comfortable with that approach, as it seemed dangerous based on the fact a) you're learning, so you'll have to hop off the wheel sooner rather than later, and b) dismounting also involves having only 1 foot on the pedal at one point, so...better to learn that in reverse order, from a standstill, than find yourself in trouble when in motion I essentially learned to mount following the advice in the video below, with the idea of getting used to one-foot control. The part that applies the most to one legged-riding starts at 6:18 >> The small hops where you gradually increase the distance between hops. Essentially, you learn to control the wheel one-legged, and finally put your 2nd foot on the pedal when you're comfortable enough. From there to one-legged riding, it really isn't that much of a stretch. Think of it as extended mounts. Rather than taking your foot off the pedal while riding, do the opposite. Start from a standstill, give yourself a little impulse and see how long you can go on one foot. Keep at it and you'll be there soon enough! Another piece of advice: Gear up when practicing tricks. It's easy to underestimate the potential for injury at slow speeds. My wrist guards saved me from breaking my wrist when trying to penny-spin. I have a nasty scar on my right shin from the InMotion V8 (sharp edged on the handle...) hitting me when it spun around after a failed attempt at riding backwards. Shin-guards are an often over-looked piece of safety gear that I don't use when riding normally but always when practicing tricks; the chances of the wheel spinning around violently and coming back to ram into you before you even see it coming are high. Boots subtract from your nimbleness, but feet and toes are another easy-to-overlook parts of the body that are particularly susceptible to injuries when learning/practicing tricks. Have fun and be safe!
  15. 1 like
    Hi - I opened a new topic to try to answer your question and not dillute @Seba's EUC World topic... Short answer: The reported battery voltage has, especially at higher burdens nothing to do with the state of charge (battery level) or safety margin. Long answer: A first approximation equivalent circuit diagram of a battery is a perfect voltage Source delivering a voltage U_0, then a series resistance (internal battery resistance) and than the outer connections of the battery at which a voltage U_batt can be measured (this is measured and reported by KS wheels). The internal resistance of a LiIon cell as used in EUCs is around 30-50 mOhm, lets say 40 mOhm. Then a 20s6p Battery pack has 40/1000 * 20/6 Ohm = 0.13 Ohm. The internal Battery Voltage U_0 is corresponding to the battery level (state of charge) - as by measuring the battery without load (U_batt == U_0) after ~30 min resting time shows quite perfectly the state of charge. The 30 min resting time for good accuracy are needed, because this abovementioned equivalent circuit diagram with just the internal resistance is only a first approximation. There exist better approximations with more resistances and capacitances, but i found nowhere some data in regard to our used LiIon cells ... So what to do with this knowledge. KS wheels measure U_batt and the battery current I_batt - so one can calculate easily U_0 = U_batt + I_batt * R_internal_battery. This leads to the following: The dark black line (fluctuating between ~60-65V) is the reported U_batt, the much more stable grey line in this range is U_0, calculated as described above. (green: Battery Current, blue: Speed) So with this value EUC World (and/or any other app) could show the battery capacity much more precise. Regarding Safety Margin: The max torque over speed motor limit diagram depends on U_0 and not U_batt! So this U_0 would be the right value to be used for voltage dependent alarms! This is because this max torque over speed limit line is determined by the following equivalent circuit diagram: Our battery, with the state of charge dependent perfect voltage source U_0, then the internal resistance of the battery then the coil resistance of the motor and then the motor generated voltage U_emf. (As this is for the max torque curve the motor driver with it's PWMing is of no interest. duty_cycle = 100%) So one has a voltage difference of (U_0 - U_emf) over a resistance of (R_internal_battery + R_coil). U_emf = k * speed. I = (U_0 - U_emf)/(R_internal_battery+R_coil). ... with the torque beeing proportional to I (M = k1 * I) By this one comes to the dropping limit line. For a speed == 0 is U_emf = 0V and I_max = U_0 / (R_internal_battery + R_coil) going down to a current of zero a the maximum no load speed. As one sees the maximum available torque is dependend on U_0 (and the speed), not on U_batt! But of course a high voltage sag caused by the high motor current is a sign that one gets nearer to the limit... Ps.: And by the better approximations this available U_0 (which determines the limit) goes a little bit down under burden and recovers once the burden releases...
  16. 1 like
    If the motor works in same regard as KS16X more watts is not translating to more speed. It is directed towards more torque. I personally think that is why the KS16X had its issues. The motor can handle a higher demand, but battery and first versions of control boards could not comply in all situations. Now please keep in mind I have not tested a KS18L model. So I could very well be wrong.
  17. 1 like
    Just want to say: you sir, are a champion
  18. 1 like
    This guy.... I got none of that! Legacy motor, original motherboard, shell scratched to shit, I have wheel envy, lmao. Doesnt Jason include a free set of wristguards with his orders? I know he used to. When you're first learning, be sure to keep those wrist guards on, as much as I know people think they can just skip out. Low speed falls are the ones where your wrists are most at risk. Falling straight down, twisting, all that other good stuff. When you're going faster, you can slide, so theres less direct pressure on the wrist (although i still wear em every ride) but yeah, people make that mistake of "Well, im going slow, so" Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... no point in risking it XDD.
  19. 1 like
    I ordered at just the right time because eWheels included that exact bodygaurd. They also included the larger pedals and the 2200 motor. Im so happy haha!!
  20. 1 like
    Are you still going to get a newer smart watch as well, @Marty Backe, or is this replacement Pebble going to fill that void?
  21. 1 like
    No joke! I only wish I could remember which thread it was mentioned in, but I do remember that @Marty Backe commented on it as well. No more specs though than three new Gotway models in the pipeline for 2020, one of which is a 20-incher. I call it a Mini-Monster! (Knowing GW math though, it could be either an actual 20” tire or a ”20”” tire.)
  22. 1 like
    +1! (Have run out of "likes" for today)
  23. 1 like
    Your forgot a P (for pico!), so it should be PPPPPP: Pico's Prepare-practice-push-ponder-protect method! Good approach, I like it! BTW, your lady is clearly better at tricks than I am...mounting with the "wrong" leg isn't something I've managed yet...
  24. 1 like
    Are you Ready to Rumble?
  25. 1 like
    Damn, wish you'd had video, I bet that was awesome to see.. Mines scared me a few times as well, but ive learned to pick it up and just wait, if she free spins. Im usually at fault, not the wheel. That IS scary to hear. Update us and let us know if it was just a fluke, or if had something to do with what travs said. His logic sounds right, but you're the one with a badass black streak. The amount of energy in these batteries and the amount of motor power is MUCH more than we think. I'd bet it more than a stick of dynamite and prolly more raw power than a small motorcycle. Luckily (when working right), the power is limited. Imagine if a short just hit that motor at full tilt. I'd bet it would be a sight to see, until the wires gave under the amperage. Under fw2.0 MY wheel powers itself off once calibration is selected. After you hold it level and turn it back on, it emits about 5 beeps and then turns itself off again. Just to be sure, I used a long level, and i think poor calibration on my part, was why i turned much easier one way than the other yesterday. Maybe not, but no matter, its gone now.
  26. 1 like
    There's a reason I said black duct tape. (powertape, actually, as it's thicker) Lucky you! Mine has been a pain in the ass since day 1...I find that recalibrating it (back when it was still an option...[sigh]) would do the trick for about an hour, then it would revert back to it's shenanigans. I eventually disabled it after it thought it was being picked up while leaning against the wall in a café, falling over and nearly landing on an octogenarian's foot Newer batches use digital sensors; ours use a more primitive pressure sensor, which can be affected by even how tight the screws holding it/the trolley handle in place are. Although I've heard accounts of people with newer batches having issues with the lift sensor too... It's noticeable, isn't it? Wise move to set speed warnings! You wouldn't want to end up face-first in a wet cowpie field! See that, @Unventor? The lights are a fiasco, I know, but focus on the positive, stick some duct tape on the sensor and give this FW a chance! As much as you enjoy your 16X, this brings them much closer...If you can overlook the lights issues (which will hopefully be fixed soon), I think this update will grow on you FWIW, I've been riding my 18XL for almost a year and have absolutely loved it! The only times I've ever wished for more power were on ridiculously steep mountain climbs. But now, my inner child is brimming with joy and I'd be hard pressed to find anything this wheel couldn't tackle So as a new rider, a "luxury performance wheel" like the legacy 18XL with FW 1.13 is already an exceptional wheel; but now you get an upgrade for free, which is pretty much the equivalent of adding a twin-turbo to it Put some miles on it, I doubt you'll find yourself wanting for more (and if you do, I doubt the extra 200W will satisfy your lust for speed and you'll be better off buying a Gotway)
  27. 1 like
    Thanks @Chriull!!! I appreciate you taking the time to answer, AND that you prevented me from further derailing the EUC World thread... Seeing your answer, I now understand why Seba has been pretending not to notice my question (which I've asked several times in the past too) So...after reading your explanation about 15 times, the way this works, if I understood correctly is.... forget it, who am I trying to fool...? But I'm going to give it my best shot anyway (no, @RockyTop, I'm not doing so for your entertainment) So basically, the value that most accurately reflects a stable, precise battery level is only representative of battery level, but not of the amount of torque available, and therefore, the safety margin...? (the latter depending on U_0, and fluctuating more depending on the load?) I guess I was hoping for some sort of "unified, all-encompassing" value applicable to both scenarios; a workaround so those momentary 10-15% drops in battery voltage (caused by acceleration, etc) aren't accounted for in terms of my speed alarms, so that the 20% battery I've set for my 40 km/h (battery-dependent) speed alarm doesn't fluctuate depending on whether I'm braking, coasting or accelerating. But now that I (think I) vaguely understand how this works, I gather that's not possible. So the question is: I've set my battery-dependent speed alarms so they warn me slightly before I get throttling tiltback: 40 km/h @ 20% battery / 32 km/h @ 15% battery I've based those figures on this graph: But...I'm using the "optimized" battery level algorithm, and am assuming the above graph was probably done based on OEM battery level algorithms. So my current settings are probably...over-over-kill...? So perhaps it should use: a) The alarms I currently have in place and the standard, OEM-style algorithm, or b) Optmized algorithm and slightly higher speed alarms? c) Stick with the over-kill so I absolutely guarantee I don't faceplant and loose the few brain cells I have left? @Seba, you see why it's important for there to be an acoustic warning 5-ish km/h before the wheel enforces speed throttling? So people with limited brain capacity such as myself don't implode while trying to figure out the best speed alarm settings / pester you and @Chriull with questions whose answers they have trouble understanding... Couldn't you provide a shorter and more simple to understand explanation, like @Chriull did? I'm just joking, I really appreciate you taking the time to give me the explanation you did, Chriull. Although a lot of it passed through my brain, short-circuited a few cells and came out the other side, no matter how hard I tried to understand, I'm still eager to learn, and if you've managed to make someone like me comprehend even a small portion of how this works, that's no small accomplishment BTW, Seba, the car analogy doesn't work for me. My car marks 3/4 of a tank when going downhill and turning left, and 1/4 when going uphill and turning right Yes, as you've probably guessed, it's neither a Tesla nor a car built during the last two decades (I think it cost me less than my 18XL) How did I do? I think Chriull is going to make me repeat the semester...
  28. 1 like
    Invision Community reportedly supports 'pages' but they don't support wiki markups. I'd be happy to help collate/manage any kind of wiki if required.
  29. 1 like
    This will work both with WheelLog and EUC World:
  30. 1 like
    Well it is kind of smart enough, but it works so much better on the KS16X. As an example, you are riding daylight but enters a tunnel or go under a bridge or is a shadow side on a narrow side road. The bad side is light you say a lamppost or car can turn off your light. On the KS16X it only dims it as it have different strength combined winh nead wide beam and the narrow long beam.
  31. 1 like
    I've never understood the point of the sensor...it already seemed unreliable to me when I first received my 1st-batch 18XL. A direct source of light above it would trigger the sensor to switch off the headlight, making the pothole 3m in front of me (and not illuminated by the lamp post) "invisible". I like my headlight either on or off, and for me to be the only one making that decision, not the wheel. I think it was day 2 of owning the wheel when I put a little circle of black duct tape over the sensor. End of problem. And now that it can be switched on and off from my phone, watch or Flic, there's even less need (if there ever was one) for a light sensor... But that's just me. For people who use it, the rear light going off when light hits the sensor is dangerous business. KS should fix this SOON
  32. 1 like
    Hopefully it won't make me want to have wished I'd upgraded my health insurance as well. But another thing definitely getting upgraded is my gear, there's no more excuses left for putting off getting a full face helmet or some decent body armor now.
  33. 1 like
    it was GPS issue. Just fixed it and updated fw. Im fully charging it so i can unlock max speed today. Thanks for the help.
  34. 1 like
    Must start training horse stance - it looks even wider. Don’t care too much for the double ingress points for the speakers, but the dual headlights are a nice addition. I just hope they are smart enough to allow switching between dual and single modes.
  35. 1 like
    He was a bit shaken afterwards so I will get all the details and start a new thread. I guess it was just a regular overlean.
  36. 1 like
    I seem to have this as well. It's the first time I actually let the wheel sit for a couple of days (although upright), and this morning I noticed the dips. Will try the bluetooth update, once I get hold of an empty USB key.
  37. 1 like
    I recall seen this post a few times regarding KS18L and KS16X
  38. 1 like
    The Rise Of The Electric Unicycle Tribe.. Enjoy 😁
  39. 1 like
    Standard, 2000 W versions of KS-18L and KS-18XL uses the same firmware - KS18L. KS18LH is a firmware for a higher powered (2200 W) KS-18L and KS-18XL variants. It's important to not load KS18LH firmware into legacy, 2000 W version of KS-18XL or KS-18L. KS-18L and KS-18XL share the same components. They only differ in battery capacity which is encoded in 6th digit of serial number. So serial number of KS-18L starts with "KS18L2", while KS-18XL starts with "KS18L4". Exactly. At some point KS unified their firmware for KS14 family by creating common firmware.
  40. 1 like
    Made my test ride today and i had some big fun. That thing shoots off like a rocket, i was really blown away how much power i had to play with. I had a big fat smile on my face all day long. Since i got the 16X i only rode the 18XL every once in a while when i wanted to smoothly cruise a little because i like the power and quickness of the 16X more. But now i would say it’s got as much acceleration power as my 16X, really amazing. And sometimes i thought there is something wrong with the wheel. While riding on tarmac i was hearing a strange noise that i never heard before. But i figured out it was just the noise from the tire that i couldn’t hear before because of the high pitch whine. So i am really happy to have a new amazing wheel, thanks Kingsong. And hey @Mike Sacristanhope you and Monika will try out the 2.00 XL from Simon, you will love it.
  41. 1 like
    Or may you just need to let the drama go.... Nothing to see here.
  42. 1 like
  43. 1 like
    Keeping in mind these will be the daily highs, the temperature when I travel at 6:30am next week will be close to -35c. Travelling at 30kmh the wind chill will take that to -52c. As long as it doesn't snow I'll be using the KS-18XL for this, although I might pull out a 16S just to see how it does. (I use the ACM2 for snowy days). The commute is about 6km each way. As long as the camera doesn't freeze, hopefully we'll get a bit of video out of it.
  44. 1 like
    I just hope there isn't a repeat of the water intrusion / battery short incident. Didn't they have to recall a lot of units previously to address issues? InMotion's got some good engineers on their team. Hopefully they introduce better weatherproofing measures into any future wheels.
  45. 1 like
    Tire God... oh my god! And in caps no less. Unfortunately God has not heard of that brand before. Being a bit on the narrow side it would’ve slipped my radar as well. The tread pattern looks very functional to me though, so if you feel that you wouldn’t be bothered by the width, I say go for it! As long as it’s reasonably priced of course. Good grip doesn’t at all necessarily mean that it would wear down faster. Seems the rubber compounds (silica content perhaps) vary enough to make predictions of the wearability very hard.
  46. 1 like
    Me too, but the usual suspects I follow are already saying this is an upgrade from the One X. That combined with Insta360 rep for quality and constant development / updating, I'm sold. Meh, non-issue to me, as I'm sure this new One R will be priority #1 for them now, and they will pump out Firmwares to correct, as they usually do. The battery is modular and looks to be the same as the stock one(?) so I'm guessing it will be available early. Thankfully, they doubled on the delayed GPS module that the One X uses to be the same for the One R I have a feeling this camera will be in all our bags soon
  47. 1 like
    Blue sky and upper 70's today. Couldn't let that go to waste so I took the ACM2 out for a 45-mile ride.
  48. 1 like
    In front of the 1960's Batcave
  49. 1 like
    Congrats on your fast learning! Mounting without support is indeed a skill that often comes a bit later, but it is crucial nonetheless! One thing to watch out for though. Nearly every new EUC-rider goes through a stage where confidence exceeds skill! Zipping around at 40 km/h while not yet being able to mount without support sounds look you might be in that stage already. So do be careful, but above all, keep having fun. Soon you will be riding everywhere you can!
  50. 1 like
    I just got back from my range test. This time I wanted to go at high speed for almost the whole way before throttling begins. My psi is at 42 and my weight is 215 pounds. 99% of the ride was on the sidewalk, so I felt every cracks and bumps which make for a very painful trip. My average speed was 26-28 mph. I was able to ride for 2hr 15min before throttling began, I managed to clock 55 miles (41 GPS miles). I couldn’t go above 24 mph without tilt-back. I slowed my pace down to around 20-22 mph for an additional 10 miles. My feet had tremendous amount of pain and could not continue to deplete the battery down, but I did get it down to show 2 LED’s left. My final miles 65.3 (47.9 gps) and the time was 2hr 48min. I think I could have squeezed 70mi (50 gps), but the pain was too intense and I didn’t want to walk home. First screenshot was at the first throttled tilt-back. Second and third screenshot was the completely done point.
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