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Showing most liked content on 01/14/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 likes
    Nope, I don’t have that one. That is actually the Nikola (and latest 18XL) tire. Compared to the MSX tire I agree completely with the term ”anti-slip” though. GW wheels typically don’t have the diodes installed. A custom request by Ewheels is the only factory installed exception I know of. Extremely unlikely. The only way for the MSPro to have more torque than the MSX is if they revamped the firmware behaviour to a non-Gotwaylike one, like KS now has on the 18XL. GW fans would get furious. Wattage doesn’t affect torque. Oh my god, you people! I guess people skip reading my boring downer posts. Oh look, a 3000W home stereo set! Three-thou-sand!! It’s eons more than even on the MSPro! Just emagine the thorq, you don’t even have to lean forward like at all anymore... just... WOW!!!
  2. 5 likes
    That right there is a well reasoned assumption, and I agree, the wheel most likely will have more power than the MSX. What gets under my skin is that the ”more power” is marketed as a value that’s supposed to present how much sustained power the motor can receive. Which alone is not a very meaningful figure even for itself, let alone for how much power the controller can deliver. The same wattage/numbers game is seen in industries all over, and is nothing more than the ”72% longer” eyelashes from a makeup. I hate that people are played down like that, when straight facts would serve everybody a lot better. And don’t get me wrong, I consider your reasoning for the purchase exeptionally sound. It was a deal you definitely shouldn’t have passed, and I’m glad you didn’t. Just don’t expect for more torque than on the MSX under 30mph, since you would most likely be disappointed. Thank you for the praising words! It does sometimes surprise which specific areas rise to be a person’s strengths, and for me the tire thing is one of them. But despite my borderline OCD level info about tires, I’m just the next dude, and a person with many weaknesses. I also get annoyed from time to time. I’m sorry it fell down on your comments (amongst others). That one should be a beast of a tire, just like my C-186. Yesterday we rode a hard 50km trip on extremely soggy dirt and mud, and I’d have turned home at the startline with the original tire. And we rode fast! I’m still perplexed what a proper tire turns these vehicles into. Btw, I decided to follow EUC Extreme’s footsteps, and started slicing the H-666 up for a bit rougher tread pattern to better grip on mud. Turning and carving on a knobby does limit the joy factor a bit for me, and I still miss the stunning turning behaviour of the H-666. Hopefully my slicing wont change that too much. Thanks, I’d love to, but I’m afraid my travelling capabilities are a bit too limited. I actually think I can shut up about it for now... ...unless someone says the magic words again to waken the beast!
  3. 5 likes
    It's a nice thought but I'm actually negative about adding spikes and such to pedals because I think they raise the risk of serious injuries occurring in a fall. They keep your feet tied more to a wheel. It's better, IMO, to be able to slide off the pedals during a wheel accident.
  4. 5 likes
    take a look at my off road cruise I’m currently still riding on quick video edit while on coffee break
  5. 5 likes
    IDK but the person to ask about spikes on the pedals would be @Rehab1. Sounds good in theory but you don't want the wheel to stay with you on wipe outs.
  6. 5 likes
    Here's a little bit of the -26c ride this morning.
  7. 4 likes
  8. 4 likes
    What do you guys think of these Aggressive Offroad Non Slip KS16X Footplate Inserts Goto 10 minutes into the video Surley they will help on hill climbs and bumpy surfaces @Marty Backee He might also make them for other wheels
  9. 4 likes
    Update: I spoke with Inmotion USA about the issue. They stated that the difference between the actual voltage and the control board reported voltage is common and didn't seem to be a reason for concern. They also confirmed that the new pedals are stronger than the old ones. I ordered the new pedals and a new side panel as I cracked mine getting it off :-/. Anyways I will update once I get the parts with pictures of the old and new so we can compare.
  10. 4 likes
    EUC World uses technique called 2D mapping to generate battery level from voltage. I plan to implement 3D mapping (that will also use battery current), but this will take some time as I have to gather enough real-world data to create reliable value maps for each wheel.
  11. 4 likes
    I actually loved my custom spiked pedals until @Marty Backe’s Gotway Gods cast down their rage and fury on me. These babies gripped exceptionally well in the snow just as I had designed them. Unfortunately one day they refused to let go of my feet as the ACM and myself summersaulted through the air before hitting the ground. Just be careful.
  12. 4 likes
    I was excited by the topic line, but I don't think this is compelling enough to upgrade from my MSX 100V 1845WH version. I think I will get an mten3 to satisfy my compulsive need to purchase toys until something that is more of a leap forward comes along for my next high performance wheel.
  13. 4 likes
    Sadly, same terrible trolly design... No word on waterproofing (those speakers placement, as shown have me wondering about how long they will last). No word on peak power, or the batteries in use. Be interesting to see it comparison to the new Rockwheel Iron Korea which they are claiming is a 3000W motor and 92v ( )
  14. 4 likes
    My thoughts exactly. But since they announce such enormously high speeds, it is reasonable to expect that the control board has been beefed up accordingly. And of course, riding at 45mph vs 35-40mph will of course feel different. I have zero doubt that this wouldn’t be a more powerful wheel than the current 100V MSX. Just that it’s not the wattage rating of the motor that makes the difference, or even gets you to those speeds. Can you explain exactly what it is that you feel being different on a motor that is stamped 2500W instead of 2000W? Larger current peaks? Higher voltage? Higher PWM duty cycle? More instantaneous transient power delivery? The problem is, until the 2200W 18XL, we have had zero chance to compare only motors of different power rating. If you compare a MSV3 to a MSX, it’s a different wheel in so many other regards that you can’t isolate what the more powerful motor feels like. Think about a more familiar source of wattage, a stereo system. Or even laptop speakers. How would you know if I secretly upgraded the amp section to one that’s twice as powerful? Would you hear it? How would you test the difference? If you compare a 100W stereo system to a 10W boombox, you will mostly hear different speakers, not the wattage. (Edit: Actually, my analogue is wrong. Motor is just the speaker in a stereo system, not the amp. The controller is the amp that provides the power. If there is no further power available from the controller/amp, the wattage rating of the motor/speakers doesn’t matter one bit, be it 100W or a trillion watts. It still doesn’t get any louder.) I tried to answer this to the best of my skills in my previous post and above the quote. I hope it will seed some root and keep you guys out of the stupid marketing BS of ”wattage”. What do you think about how the 2200W motor upgrade on the 18XL was ”felt”? I hear it felt really strong. And I mean the impact when the riders hit the ground because the wheel no longer had the same power near top speed than the 2000W motor had. Yeah, there we go. They had to make it seem upgraded somehow. And wattage is the easiest, since no-one will hold you accountable, as only a handful of customers even understand what the number represents.
  15. 4 likes
    I know I’m preaching to deaf ears here, because what I’m saying is boring but a bigger number is cool: 1) EUC motor wattage rating is for sustained power before the motor overheats. If you haven’t overheated a 2000W motor or overleaned at lower speeds, you have never been to the limit and hence you won’t notice a difference due to the motor wattage. 2) The maximum peak wattage of a ”2500W” motor can be 3500W or it can be 9000W. An upgrade from a 2000W to a 2500W motor can be anything between 0-100% marketing. 3) Since the details and definitions of the motor wattage measurement process are unknown, they can just change the definitions and call the same old 2000W motor a 2500W motor. This happens quite a bit, especially between manufacturers. Will it accelerate faster? No. Fill it feel snappier? No. Will it go faster? Only if the control board is upgraded to make it go faster. Look at the KingSong’s new 2200W motor. Wow, more power! No. Faceplants all over due to lack of power above 30mph. Even the 18XL turned weak at top speeds before they were able to tune in the firmware. And how does Gotway tune in the firmware...? It doesn’t. At all. Ever.
  16. 3 likes
    After about 6-7 practice sessions on the wheel, I felt that I was ready to try commuting. This morning I rode 1.25 miles to the train station and then 0.75 miles from the train to my office. All in all it went well. Just a few observations: 1. It's dark at 6:40am and the lights on the KS-14D are simply not enough to see obstructions on poor roads. I need to put my bike headlamp on the helmet. 2. The 14D crosses railroad tracks just fine. I didn't even notice it. 3. The wheel is bigger that I thought - it just barely fits between my legs when seated in the train. 4. People / pedestrians are the biggest danger. You never know when someone will turn around or step backwards without looking. I made it to work safe and unscathed. The return journey could be interesting as it is likely to rain.
  17. 3 likes
    EUCO set up a fun ride with locals and the inmotion guys including @Liamfind. i got him to share some details but promised I'll keep it to myself. But he did say the name hasn't been picked yet. It could be called anything at this moment. One thing I will share is it will have the traditional scorpion tail style handle.
  18. 3 likes
    I'm with both previous posters; dont buy a new learner wheel, you will outgrow it quickly. If in doubt whether EUCs might not be for you get a second hand wheel to explore. There are too many wasted learner wheels around, and they are not that cheap either. If you think you will stick to it you could get a serious wheel right away, just pad it well for the learning process. Most of us end up concluding its great use and fun :)
  19. 3 likes
    Perhaps they wish to remain the left bottom side empty for future models with more battery blocks. I’m disappointed in the update, and have no interest in upgrading from my 84V MSX because of: - Same ancient and small pedals. The additional torque arm from my long DIY pedal extension is very significant. - Wider body but the same body shape, yet the sidepads seem to be on the thinner side. Ouch. - The worst trolley handle in the business keeps it’s title. - Unshielded speakers behind the right heel... This area is often filled with dust and mud on mine. - Very scarce of real updates besides seemingly trying to make the fastest EUC. - Cheap solution and tricky to use the lift kill switch. - No news about firmware upgradability or updated riding modes. If I’ll purchase a new wheel this year, it’s not going to be the MSPro.
  20. 3 likes
    If you can afford it, start with a bigger wheel. Just invest in a lot of bubble wrap for the first 1000km. There are two wheels for us fat folks: KS18L/KS18XL and MSX. Both of them will give you around 50-60km of range on one charge. Bigger wheel means bigger stability - my MSX is way more stable than my previous KS16S. I regret buying KS16S - I pretty much destroyed it, it wasn't sturdy enough. Since you plan to ride slowly, a normal 84V version would be better for you - the only advantage of 100V is more speed. Both of those wheels should keep their value quite well if you ever decide you don't like unicycling. And if you are able to buy second hand, even better. :-) Actually, since you plan to just do minimal offroad, KS18XL would probably be better - KingSongs have really good, 10/10 trolley handles. Meanwhile, MSX's handle is only 5/10. InMotion doesn't have an 18' wheel and Ninebot One Z10 is not a good wheel from what I've read.
  21. 3 likes
    Im a heavier rider as well, just a bit lighter than you. I started out with the Kingsong 16S. It was a beast of a machine, never dropped me, but I knew I needed more power for my weight. My brother, who is like 150lbs of muscle, took my 16S and does things with it that would never work for me. He rides that thing hard. If i were to have pushed it there, it would have dropped me, and that was a 1200w motor if I remember correctly. The V8 seemed like a wheel for lighter riders. And the way it cuts out pretty easily under certain conditions for anyone toeing that line, im not sure I would risk it. If you still want a light(ish) wheel with a lot more power, but not as pricey as the XL, the 16S could be a real option for you. I grew out of it pretty fast, but I still love that wheel, even though last time I stood on it, i was scared I was gonna die, lmao. Its a bit of an older wheel now, but I think it still holds up quite well. Curious what the others think though as I only have 1 year into this hobby. But i rode over 6000km in said year. I might be a little addicted, lmao.
  22. 3 likes
    Hey, that's practically around the corner from here. Does he have an itinerary or schedule of when he will be where? It would be great to meet up for a ride if/when he makes it to New Zealand...
  23. 3 likes
    LOL, these are Chinese businesses, they'll unapologetically copy anything and everything they want to without hesitation. Whatever their reasoning for sticking with the sh1tty trolley handle (likely them not wanting to change the case and have to create new, expensive molds), neither pride nor patents have anything to do with it.
  24. 3 likes
    I did exactly what you said and the wheel is happy now. That bubble level app is a great idea. Thanks for the help!
  25. 2 likes
    There's loads of info out there but it's difficult finding it. If we had a wiki section that was maintained by users then we could build a useful knowledge base that anyone could dip into. Forum users should be allowed to edit pages to keep them up to date. It might be worth having some form of restriction on users to ensure people don't just register and then delete everything. There are loads of topics which could be included but here's a few: Guides to the various apps available (Inmotion, KS, Gotway, EUC World, Wheellog etc) User written manuals for wheels Guide to battery management Maintenance topics How do EUCs work .... Topics could be added and maintained by users over time.
  26. 2 likes
    Wow, thanks for this tip UniVehje! Used darkness bot after you recommended it and it seemed to work great. Hella easier than using kingsong app.
  27. 2 likes
    It's the opposite; you're the 2nd biggest danger to pedestrians. That is, pedestrians don't knock each other down especially on sidewalks, but pedestrians are knocked down by people who aren't pedestrians. You could ride on the street, but then you could be knocked down and killed by drivers, somewhat akin to you knocking down pedestrians. And then the driver will complain that you weren't looking.
  28. 2 likes
    The right choice in my opinion. Everyone thinks they will never need to go faster than 20mph (I did). 90% of those people find out they were very wrong. 6 miles is like 20+ minutes with stops etc. That's no longer a "short" commute. You will probably enjoy a big, comfortable, forgiving tire for such a longer and regular daily ride. Doesn't have to be the 18XL, but you chose the right category of wheels.
  29. 2 likes
    Wrist guard gloves like the Gyroriderz or Hillbillys are exactly that, they have an exposed slide plate at the palm, and a splint at the opposite side. And usually made of leather for good abrasion resistance. @seage, your learning video is a perfect example why I don’t recommend anyone to use a strap to catch the wheel when having to jump off. This clip shows perfectly why both hands should be free!
  30. 2 likes
    No. But I didn't wear any gear at first (dumb/stubborn/thoughtless), and any gear I added was because of a fall where I realized I really should have had that piece of gear. First minor very low speed fall ruined my cloth winter gloves. Without gloves (in summer), my hands might have been a bit torn on the gravelly ground. Then I realized wrist guards are a good idea. Never again rode without them. Next fall was a bit worse (luckily also in winter the year after, so I only lost all of my clothing instead of a lot of skin) and I realized I needed knee guards (and upgraded my wrist guards, though the cheap ones worked super well, you could literally feel them cushioning the blow, and my palms would have been majorly f**ked up without them, maybe permanently). Then I figured I should add a full face helmet before I have a fall that would convince me I needed a helmet (which might end not so harmlessly). I was pretty lucky, could have gone worse. Once you're used to the gear, you'll feel naked and unsafe without it. That's a positive. The important thing a about wrist protection for EUC riding is that the wrist guards must slide along on the ground unimpeded if you have a fall. As soon as you land on your hands, they are supposed to slip forward and barely catch your weight. So if your "gloves" don't slide and don't have plastic slide plates, I would not recommend them. That's something to be aware of for EUC hand protectors of any kind: they must easily slide on the ground (plastic slide plates). Wrist protection is not about protecting your wrist from bending and breaking. You don't fall like this in a EUC crash (unlike in snowboarding, for example). EUC crashes are mostly doing a superman forward onto the ground. For EUCs, wrist protection is about two things. Impact protection, to prevent the impact shock from travelling along your arm into your shoulder and break/hurt your delicate shoulder (the by far worst consequences of pretty much every major crash reported on this forum were nasty shoulder injuries!) or arm. That's why they need to slide instead of rapidly stop and ram your arm into your body, which would be seriously counter productive at 20+ mph. The other thing is abrasion (do not underestimate abrasion). After the impact, the wrist guards need to prevent your palms from being grated off by the ground. Cloth would still work, but doesn't slide. Impact and abrasion are the two factors for every piece of EUC protective gear you consider. It matters differently for different pieces. Helmet is mostly about impact (head and face must hit helmet, not ground). Knee guards are mostly about abrasion (which here means: they must not slide off your knee while you still slide along on the ground!). Etc. You don't have to use one, but it would be a very sensible choice to wear it, and not extreme at all. Not necessarily during learning (you can get away with nothing or wrist guards only), but later. This is my all time favorite EUC video ever. It is a fantastic example of proper knee guards working well (and great crash technique from a pro rider), and you can gleam any information you need about knee protection from 10 seconds of video (simply imagine what would have happened without). Maybe it convinces you that knee guards are indeed a good idea (they are!). About 10 seconds into the video... Please don't be scared off by these descriptions. It is entirely possible you will never have a fall that is worse than you running off the wheel. But you can't be 100% sure and don't control the circumstances 100%, which is what protective gear is for. Contingency planning, nothing more. But it is unintuitive and very hard without experience to judge the possible dangers of a EUC crash, so plan as much as you like (= no such thing as too much gear).
  31. 2 likes
    That's exactly what is so wonderful about EUCs! Just so intuitive to ride, and so easy to use everywhere. Haha, that's exactly what everyone thinks when they lift their first wheel out of the box and then try to stand on it. Nice! Sorry if I sound like a broken record, but never ride without wrist guards; and a (full face) helmet and knee guards are pretty much the minimum gear for higher speed.
  32. 2 likes
    I commute daily and usually carry a flashlight in one hand when it’s dark. It’s easier to maneuver and helps with flashing side mirrors on cars, directing traffic, etc. I suggest getting a flashing vest or alike so people can spot you more easily.
  33. 2 likes
    Here's a bit of the video shot on the way to work this morning. Temp was -34c, the camera decided it had had enough shortly after this was shot.
  34. 2 likes
    Sounds like poor calibration. My wheel is super solid with the 2.00 FW. But I had the same problem as you last time I calibrated. I did it with the wheel leaning against a wall. But I learned that the wheel doesn't spinn in calibration mode. So next time I put my wheel on my EUC Army stand. After the next calibration it was perfect.
  35. 2 likes
    My recommendations for quick(?) results: PPPPP P for Prepare: think about what you want to do today at this session. P for Practice. P for Pushing slightly your limits (one inch at a time!). P for Ponder to see what you have accomplished. P for Protect, according to your risk tolerance. Here is my lady doing some Pushing. This technique was suggested by @trya
  36. 2 likes
    I’m a newbie too. I bought a cheap second hand wheel as a starter wheel and I’m now in the process of buying my proper wheel. I think second hand was the right way to go, even though in my country the second hand EUC market is almost non existent, and the wheel I bought was truly ancient. In the US you’ll have way more options. These things can get very expensive and you won’t know the kind of rider you are or want you really want from an EUC until you hop on and start to use one. You’ll drop the wheel, a lot, when learning so best to do it with a cheapy. You might even decide that EUCs are not for you. Buy proper safety gear though! Don’t skimp there. And don’t commute during the newbie phase in your fancy office shoes My humble 2c. I’ll leave the wheel recommendations to my more experienced brethren.
  37. 2 likes
    It's because Android imposed new limits on how app can be started and limitation on so-called "implicit broadcasts". These broadcasts are the way Pebble app sends information to other applications. In the past you could mark your app as a receiver for these broadcasts, even if it was not running. So receiving such broadcast would cause app to start. Now it's only possible to register for receiving such broadcast when application is running.
  38. 2 likes
    EUC World will normally report wheel speed. But if tour tracking is active and wheel connection will be lost (or isn't connected at all), it will report GPS speed. You can easily distinguish betweet two by tone that preceede each announcement. GPS uses high pitch bell while EUC uses low pitch bell. Also if you take a look at the app, you will see app lower bar green when it's in EUC mode or blue when it's in GPS mode.
  39. 2 likes
    it’s really not rocket science when it comes to Gotway wheels. 80% alarm = 20% more speed before your face meets pavement. Proceed at your own risk. To mitigate the risk of a high speed faceplant pushing the 80% alarm, you should briskly accelerate to prevent sag before punching it. Superman leaning from a dead stop gives you less room to play with up top. There are a good number of folks who have pushed upwards of 45 MPH on a Monster 100V, and also saw one guy in Asia attain 49 MPH on his 100V MSX before he cut out. With that said, the fastest I’ve taken my 100V Monster was 40.4 MPH. If you can get 34MPH out of an 84V Monster before the 80% alarm, you have another 6-7 MPH to play with (NOT RECOMMENDED!)
  40. 2 likes
    It's unlikely that would have happened if you'd been on the wheel I'm guessing it had to do with calibration: maybe due to lack of calibration, the angle you were holding it at was registered by the wheel as forward = acceleration, so it tried to accelerate, and when you held onto the handle to prevent it from moving forward, that and the smooth wooden floor caused wheel slippage, so it went into full-on free-wheel-spin, the same as if you deactivate the lift sensor and lift the wheel in the air. Must have been scary...gives you a degree of respect for how powerful this beast actually is, doesn't it? And to think that a few posts back you were asking about upgrading the motor power... Before calibrating, make sure the wheel isn't going to go nuts on you again. Find a safe place to do this. Lean the wheel against the wall and hold the handle tightly (without lifting) while you switch on the wheel (don't extend the handle). If it tries to run away, either switch it off quickly, or pick it up: if the lift sensor does its job, it'll beep and quit spinning; if not, hold it off the ground while it has its tantrum, until it switches itself off. Do not let it touch the ground while the wheel is spinning like crazy. Once you've established it's not going to try to kill you, you can proceed with calibration. When you click on "calibrate" from the app, the wheel should switch off, or beep, and then you switch it off (I can't remember which). At this point, make sure your wheel is perfectly level, both front to back and side to side (putting it on a stand, a brick under each pedal, etc., is an option). You can use a bubble level app on your phone if you don't have an actual two-way bubble level. When it's perfectly level, switch the wheel back on, trying not to move it. It'll beep a few times and switch back off. Your wheel is now calibrated. And hopefully, no longer possessed by the devil... Keep us posted, and be careful!
  41. 2 likes
    You're right about the twin-turbo... After I updated to 2.0, the unit became possessed and started screaming "PLEASE DECELERATE! PLEASE DECELERATE!" and started trying to run me over! It made a huge black streak on my wooden floor and had the place smelling like burning rubber for half an hour! I'm lucky I survived. I'm scared to turn it back on...
  42. 2 likes
    I thought I was crazy , but it's good to know there's some Edmontonians around to make me feel relatively sane . Back to hibernation for me to dream of warmer days!
  43. 2 likes
    Having spent roughly 500 hours on improving skills like turning and spinning, backwards riding, riding up curbs and down stairs, one legged riding etc. one hint that helped me to prevent some pain: I was padding the sharp edges of the wheel in case they hit me. Wheel bite is a real thing in my experience. Apart from bruises I haven't hurt myself and had my closest calls never while doing tricks. I suggest to practice to get one flat foot on the ground anywhere in a 1m radius around the wheel in any situation. Being always ready to do this helps IMHO a lot to broaden the range of situations that don't bring me down. It also requires to stay low enough to make the flat foot touch ground (before the head ). Lately, when I didn't fully abide by this idea myself it looked like this I stopped wearing protection gear a long time ago and ride with any shoes at hand including sandales. Works for me, but surely mileages vary.
  44. 2 likes
    Okay, I just switched back to km's and it topped out at the same 60.82 but this time in KM's, thanks for your help!
  45. 2 likes
    Jason confirmed this was a flat-out marketing lie in regards to the Monster; the latest Monster has the same 2000W motor as previous ones. No idea about this new MSuper Pro, but the Monster is NOT a 2500W motor.
  46. 2 likes
    I haven’t had the chance to try the 2200W version, but based on the fw 2.0 on the 2000W version and what I’ve read on these few threads here: No, I don’t think it would be worth it. Especially for you at your beginner stages. You already have one of the best and most reliable top wheels on the market! And since the 2200W motor is a new one that has had some issues, I would put the reliable track record of the 2000W 18XL far far ahead of any minor performance upgrades that you would only possibly notice some six months from now.
  47. 2 likes
    The Frankensteining of the msuper V3 shell continues. Wish they'd just come out with a new design! Those speakers sure look waterproof... They did that to the mten3, too. What a dumb solution. And looks cheap. The batteries are behind the extrusions on the top half. The lower parts of each side have the board (right side) and nothing (left side) respectively. Looks like they added the speakers to the board side (easier cabling) and the other side is still empty.
  48. 2 likes
    The mini wheel at 10:25 is amazing!
  49. 2 likes
    Imho a nice start could be @Hirsute's youtube video series - most announced in Some scattered in the "video thread". Presumably they are all collected in some youtube channel?
  50. 2 likes
    Got my new V8F a week ago! I got to ride it for a couple dozen miles, and here's my quick review video of it, with first impressions!
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