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Showing most liked content on 06/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 likes
    Let me start with the disclaimer that I am not in the pro-suspension camp. I am not, because suspension aggravates the biggest flaw of EUCs (from my perspective) by adding even more weight. Placing the suspension between pedal and shell also has the considerable disadvantage of a quite large unsprung mass. And it's hard to see how to come up with a better (good) suspension design for EUCs. To me it's difficult to predict riding experience with suspension of relevant travel (suspension did not catch on for skiing, for example), but it is IMHO worth to at least explore the possibilities if weight is not considered the deal breaker. Now the responses to all the questions (I assume more or less reflecting @mrelwood's position on suspension): Sure, the legs are our suspension. The disadvantage: it needs a lot of practice and permanent attention. Mistakes have happened and will happen, some of which can probably be prevented with built-in suspension. I doubt that suspension can fully replace the leg work any time soon, if ever. Any tire is part of the suspension of the vehicle. Larger tires tend to give better suspension, but size is not the only factor. I don't understand the opposition between pneumatic and tube filled, as a tube seems to imply pneumatic functioning. Suspension decreases peak forces, I would say big time, actually. I agree that additional damage from traversing a deep pothole may be possible. I think it is a very unlikely scenario though and usually suspension will reduce or prevent damage. It is often better to go down through the pothole and up at the end than to sail through it and hit the opposite side face-on. The same question you can ask for your car, or for a motorbike, and the answer is the same: it doesn't need to account for different weights to be effective. It could account for weight by having adjustable pretension and/or damping. Probably yes. When your car hits a pothole you are very happy that it has suspension, for sure, even if you don't think that you are happy. The more effective the suspension is, the less butt leaves seat. I am not sure, maybe you think about suspension to be like an undamped spring, which it is not. Are you saying suspension is nonsense because it is not God-given? It's hard to see that suspension will fully replace the leg work ever, but it may make the ride smoother and safer (though the increased speed that riders will chose with suspension equipped wheels may well cancel the added safety).
  2. 4 likes
    Sorry to interrupt the debate on EUC suspension, but have there been any recent updates on the release date of the 16X?
  3. 4 likes
    The specs state that the 16X is 7" wide and the Nikola is 7.9" wide. When you add the additional stick-on pads to the Nikola, it must be adding nearly another inch to the width, vs the recessed padding on the 16X. I'm definitely starting to think the 16X design was more well thought out and also like the fact that KS more openly takes inputs from the EUC community. I think we're all going to be pleasantly surprised when we get our 16X's.
  4. 3 likes
    Inspired by this thread, I am trying to understand zippiness and acceleration. I thought the following figure should help. The arrows indicate direction of forces. The question is which forces/torque the rider can/does induce. Green arrows: down force of the rider (weight) assuming constant speed (two scenarios). The CoG of the rider is vertically above the point of attack on the pedal. Forces and lean induced by the airflow are disregarded (otherwise the arrow could not be exactly vertical). Red arrows: force from the rider towards the wheel under acceleration, two scenarios. The arrow depicts a weight force combined with a lean angle due to acceleration (and possibly air resistance) such that the rider is in balance. The lean angle is directly tied to acceleration which is tied to the torque. That is, not every arrow positioning is a possible stationary acceleration scenario (or rather: only few are). Black arrows: tangential torque force direction induced by the rider. If the pedal does not dip, the wheel must provide the respective counter torque. The larger the force angle between the colored and the black arrow (if they point into the same direction, the angle is zero), the less weight force can be converted into torque. At 90º, no torque is generated. The closer the point of attack is to the middle, the larger is the angle and the closer is the point to the axle, and both means less torque is generated. Random thoughts: There is more to it than the simple inverted pendulum, as shifting the pendulum has a relevant effect. Influence of rider weight: the input force to generate counter torque is (approximately/exactly?) proportional to the rider weight. The system acceleration is inversely proportional to system mass = rider + wheel mass. That is, the rider/wheel weight induced efficiency should amount to the rider mass divided by the sum of rider and wheel mass, hence heavier riders have an advantage. An example with a 20kg wheel: a 60kg rider has 60/80=75% weight-related efficiency, a 100kg rider has 100/120=83% efficiency, which is 11% more than the 60kg rider. Not a huge difference. Influence of rider height: to get in an accelerating position, the necessary displacement of the wheel (in the opposite direction) is proportional to the CoG of the rider. Lowering the pedal mount increases the distance to the axle which increases the weight induced torque, but it also increases the force angle which decreases the weight induced torque. We need equations (looks like elementary geometry) to find out which effect is more relevant Pedal dipping changes the support point on the pedal and seems to increase the force angle between colored and black arrow hence reducing torque (which should be good as it allows the wheel to catch up). Acceleration induces an additional rotational force on the pedal-shell system, if its CoG is not on axle level. My hunch is that this force is not decisive, but we better use equations to find out
  5. 3 likes
    Looks so comfortable! Absolutely no need for suspension!
  6. 3 likes
    @mrelwood Yea, he's like that. Had to block him on facebook and thinking about doing it here - he'd deny basic things like the MSX tire being bigger (calling it Gotway marketing etc). It's the Dunning Kruger effect I think. Best to ignore him.
  7. 3 likes
    The idea that one would need to be strapped to a vehicle because it has suspension doesn't make any sense to me. It seems, we have a totally different conceptions of what suspension means and implies. Maybe a good summary is that I believe suspension reduces the (vertical) motion of the sprung mass, while you seem to suggest that suspension increases the (vertical) motion of the sprung mass. I am even pretty certain though that one of the main reasons to introduce suspension is to reduce vertical motion of the sprung mass. So be it, I guess that's not going to change any time soon Just FTR, I am a fierce proponent of bent and soft knees, I believe it is one of the major safety measures we have when riding an EUC.
  8. 3 likes
    @Marty Backe Maybe we need a Griffith Park ride sometime in there? It’d be a hike for @fryman but definitely worth it! I have a new wheel that needs some trail time!
  9. 2 likes
    Marty, there is no jumping in this video, just rolling. It isn't that difficult. And this is with a 2.125" tire, 16". Love this guy... Wish he was still making videos.
  10. 2 likes
  11. 2 likes
    If I understood the question correctly, then yes. But taken into account the factor of time, the change in pedal tilt angle (ie. adjusting the amount of power applied to spin the wheel) does introduce several potential parameters: How much tilt allowed, or time let by until the initial response from the software. (Very, very little. Still, may exist.) The acceleration curve for a peaceful lean. Acceleration curve for a fast lean. Other acceleration curve variations based on the events of the past second. Maximum tilt allowed under any circumstance. Combination of all of the above and the firmware’s response to the required vs expected power requirement for each situation. Etc... That is indeed a relevant point. But what happens immediately after that is the CoG moves forward. The firmware can have a small window of allowable tilt, which the lifting of the forefoot may partially fit in. When the CoG then moves forward beyond the window, the firmware can try to keep the pedals as level as possible. This would initiate a fairly powerful acceleration even before the rider reaches the intended lean. And as you surely know, the wheels read the sensors and respond to the input hundreds of times per second. Whenever I bring up the firmware into this topic of discussion, I think about the first experience I had with the V10F (perhaps the first firmware version). The behaviour was ridiculous, and it felt impossible to understand at first. I was literally not able to get into a proper leaning position. The pedals felt rock solid, and to a 16S rider (at that time) it felt almost as if there was a tiny but immediate tilt-back trying to stop me from going forward. Later on with an updated firmware the same wheel felt normal, and it now had a senseable softness to the riding mode. Meaning, I was able to feel some tilt allowed when starting to accelerate. The wheel now felt quite natural, and it responded to my commands in a predictable and sensible way. I was able to accelerate fast, for example, and to do so was effortless. The only way I can explain my experience is a stupendously hard riding mode. And being that the behaviour was quite soon changed based on user feedback, tells me that I (and the owner of the wheel, at least to some extent) wasn’t the only one with said experience. That is true. But as soon as you start putting pressure back on your forefoot to stop you from falling over, the CoG starts to move forward, and the firmware can decide how the wheel reacts. If the mode is hard enough to speed up the initiation of a lean as you described, it will just as rapidly try to cancel the forward lean as soon as you start to slow down the fall forward. Which I’m pretty certain does generally displace the CoG a lot more. I think a few of us will never forget the experienced downhill skier that wasn’t able to get his nee Gotway Tesla to go faster than 4km/h no matter how much he ”leaned”... As soon as we suggested that his ”lean” might actually be a skiing crouch and that he should instead push his hip forward, he stopped replying. And I like to think was happily cruising on his Tesla at whichever speed he wanted... Btw @Mono, I love discussing and pondering this (or any) topic finally with a person of your level of understanding on physics, and your mature and humble attitude of curiousness! That is a first for me.
  12. 2 likes
    If you consider the 3” tire suspension, why not you legs? If you consider 3” tire suspension, why not the older 2.125” tires? All your talk and you circle back to the tires being suspension and only 3” can be considered? What about the 4” on the Z10? Let me guess, it isn’t the same cuz it is pneumatic vs tube filled? i don’t agree with your assessment of a mechanical suspension reducing load on the wheel. Any suspension will be under tension when riding. I don’t see how this would decrease anything. I would think it would make things worse since it is under tension. i.e. when you hit a pothole, it will spring down to the hole faster maybe causing more damage to the wheel. How would the suspension account for the different weights? You think that that it would increase pedal grip? I see the opposite since we are just standing on the pedal unsecured, what happens to you in a car when you hit some big potholes? Butt leaves the seat? Please quit it with the suspension nonsense. Use what god gave you, your legs.
  13. 2 likes
    There is a limit to what can be squeezed into the round shape of the 16S. You cannot squeeze more batteries into the shell without making it too thick hence the new shape is a little wider and a little taller. A bigger tire on the 16S would only make it a more sluggish wheel. I like the direction the 16X has taken and from my stand point it looks amazing. The only issue I have with it is that it may be too heavy to replace my 16 that I keep in the trunk. I don't need s fast wheel to do my limited last mile stuff. Although I think the 16X will replace my 18L. I want a little more torque of the smaller wheel that I'm not getting from the 18". Thinness and thicker tires don't mix. You are asking for opposites. LOL. Better pedals, you can buy the upgraded pedals now. I think the ergonomics of the wheel is already great. Most of the stuff you asked for is already in the 16X design. I'm confused... Taller body is lends to better ergonomics. You can only have the wheel so thin because of the batteries. Unless they come out with higher density batteries and smaller form factor, they are working with what is out there and so is everyone else. Already has better higher density LED's, this isn't a feature I like. I rather it have no LED's. It has 3" thick tires. This definitely adds to the weight. Has better pedals. No one has any dampening and I don't think this is a good idea. Look at the inmotion v10f pedals, they flexed and now they are may reports of failed pedals. Best dampening is from the bigger tire and your legs. Any kind of suspension will mess with the way the wheel rides making it less predictable. simple is better.
  14. 2 likes
    Another idea: Let us set our wheels in our profiles. I'm watching a live tour now from "kwmisiek" and his battery usage is amazing to me, I wanna know what wheel he's riding!
  15. 1 like
    I've been seeing lots of videos regarding this stuff in the skating scene. So I decided to try it out. It was also suggested that the new Gotway Nikola had used this stuff on the pedals. But after seeing it up close it is different. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of it during the demo ride, but GW Nikola was larger square pyramids vs these which are more like little boxes, flat top. I just got them installed, sorry, no video. Took a few photos and my impression of it is below.... They feel just as grippy as the abrasive kind. I tried wetting it and also wetting my shoes, it seem to increase the grip for some reason. No data to support just a feeling. There is definitely zero slip with it being wet which was my biggest concern. The cost is about the same. I was hoping that it will give some relief to long riding like the V10F rubber pedals. The jury is still out on that. Will report back later if I feel it is helping after some longer rides. So far I LIKE them! Before After Close up comparison Very easy to change out on the KS XL pedals. Just remove the old hgrip Here is it with a lot of water on it Bought it from here for 11 bucks. Unfortunately you an only do 3 XL pedals with one roll. So to do two EUC's with XL pedals, you need two rolls. They are cheap $12 bucks. https://brailleskateboarding.com/product/non-abrasive-grip-tape/
  16. 1 like
    I bought a brand new Ninebot One E+, and with only 37 Kilometers battery failed twice and as a result a shoulder Fracture. After first cut off, got in touch with seller and told me to recharge the battery ,that lithium ion had to be recharged several cycles ,for having an acceptable capacity ?? I did it , and the second cut off came, with terrible results !! Users need more information , and think sellers hide the truth !! I am now learning from this forum , I loved my wheel , but it seems to be very dangerous , as I now am realizing that they fail more than what I supposed !! I did all the tutorials I found on Youtube , and didn't have any disgusting incident !! Until the cut's off suddenly took place , with terrible results !! Thank you all for all the knowledge I am getting from the forum and thanks for your cooperation !! Fernando Ll.
  17. 1 like
    Problem with the second screen on Pebble is much older I think. I still use version 2.0.19 from Play Store (by Palachzzz) and have the same problem. I was hoping Palachzzz would fix this, but I guess he doesn't develop WheelLog anymore?
  18. 1 like
    Hahahaaa Don't get me wrong @stephen , though. The wheel arrived at 27 psi. It was first time I got on it and went for short scary ride around... This is when I got feeling the 27 psi is way too hard, but it might be me i stead I changed then down to 23 psi, but compared to the previous experience of 27 psi, I felt it's too soft. This is when I decided to leave it at 25 psi @stephen , and I went for a longer ride on that 25 psi then So the changes I done, was the first day I could go out for a bit. Then the second day I kept that mentioned 25 psi It was only the first day, that I tried to figure out what pressure works best for me. Now I'm fancy to go back to 27 psi,and keep it
  19. 1 like
    Lol your weird 😆😆 Anyway,, give it time before changing to often your psi
  20. 1 like
    @PogArt Artur i started off thinking the pressure was to high so i lowered it to 25psi but after riding a while i went up to 30psi , same i did with the msx 30psi then 35 now I'm at 40psi .i think lower pressure is safer and feels better until you get used to the wheel then you end up increasing the pressure ,, time will tell . @Planemo i love the z10 and the msx i couldn't do without one of them .i don't really like round wheels much that's why I'm loving the ks16x style ,,, plus it's specs ofc You need another wheel 😊 @Gasmantle what wheel is on your short list then ,,,ks16x at £1600 sound ok for you 😊
  21. 1 like
    I hope so ... Just please do something,and stop the rain @stephen
  22. 1 like
    I can't tell you anything bud, you just need to go with what feels good for you. All I can say is 5 is probably too low (may damage the tyre at that) and 40 is too high (unless you are happy to lose your fillings). So somewhere inbetween those two figures will see you right
  23. 1 like
    You're MAD RIDER Wow @stephen !!! My unbeaten distance yet is made on E+ , lol 14.5 mi hahahahaaaaaaaa
  24. 1 like
    I managed a few miles today 😊
  25. 1 like
    Concept car looks cool, but the released version is often toned down a bit. But still concept are there to inspire later comes to play possibilities, economic and practical decisions... I do not thing the early EUC renders are any different. Same goes for KS16X, and I am pretty happy about it so far. Yes I miss a dedicated rear/break light. I miss seat option. I miss the early suggestion of a display by the handle for battery and maybe temp/voltage read outs. Next gen. maybe.... Time will tell if KS16X meets my high expectations and if I will be as happy with it as I am with my KS18L. I can only hope.
  26. 1 like
    This EUC concept that has been depicted on the forum many times. If you examine the structure, mechanics and the active suspension incorporated into this design it would definitely be feasible on all levels.
  27. 1 like
    IT'S A BETA VERSION. JUST A PREVIEW TO MANY NEW FEATURES THAT CAN BE INTRODUCED. I did a parallel version of WheelLog, based on one of your latest builds (i don't know which one :-P) -Colour text changed, white can be more readable in a direct sunlight. -Max speed increased. -Italian translation improved. -Horn generic function introduced: when enabled if you touch to the right side of the screen it will play a horn, to the left a bicycle bell. Of course it can be used with a whatever bluetooth! -Many new features in general preferences: --You can change font, set its size, and when you are in landscape mode you can also use a different layout, in this way you can see also current, that can be coloured if you like (red absorbing current, green recharging current). If you touch the current you can switch to battery percentage or to temperature. The variable size is really useful on watches, on little Android devices. Please try out this version. P.S. Many new features need to be translated (except italian of course), so if you want to help me... https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BQJqX2pi8OYAcyxbYSbJZ49h27KGzcF4
  28. 1 like
    No it will not. That is the simple answer. The little longer answer go to your car and push down your hood on one wheel, you will see the sink down but it does now bounch back and if you hit a hole or edge so hard it does cause bounch back it is much preferred compared to not have any (assisted suspension, by this I mean any designed suspension and the skills of the rider). So your next argument is it is a car not an EUC. But you will see same thing happen on a mountain bike or mopen. Design may differ but end effect is the same. Both GW and Inmotion have earlier declared they have tested different systems but yet we are not pasted testing. It would be byound my imagination that Kingsong should not persue ideas of suspension options either.
  29. 1 like
    Yes. True, it is just one point in time. The point of attack where the colored force hits the pedal may be (and is) constantly changing, as part of the rider controlling the wheel. Do you agree that the only degree of freedom of the firmware response can be captured in the (temporary) change of the pedal tilt angle, and everything else is directly tied to this variable? Is there another independent additional variable I am missing? After all, as you wrote elsewhere, the only thing the wheel can do is either produce more torque or less torque which should be directly tied to a changing tilt angle (everything else being equal). I don't see that an immediate reaction of the wheel can prevent the rider from "leaning". Here is why: a simple but useful alternative conception/description of (forward) leaning is lifting/releasing the forefoot for a short period of time. This moves the point of attack on the pedal behind the axle and consequently drives the wheel behind the rider and hence the rider gets into a leaning position. If the wheel responds "instantaneously", I can achieve any lean angle "instantaneously" (well, as quickly as masses can move around). Many beginners feel that they cannot accelerate uphill even though they try to push hard. This is however due to a mistaken feedback loop on the rider side rather than on the wheel side, as most of us find out with time. It feels quite counterintuitive to lift the forefoot to induce acceleration, when acceleration indeed only happens finally by pushing into the forefoot.
  30. 1 like
    Då är det nog som det ska vara, den kan ju variera mellan säljare. Mitt första hjul så var det DHL som skulle väljas, och för mitt andra seller's shipping. Båda levererades sista vägen med UPS till slut.
  31. 1 like
    I got that from the support and will try soon. All I need is to locate an android phone that I can borrow.
  32. 1 like
    Beställde från Green And Fashion. Dom sa välj UPS så jag gjorde det.
  33. 1 like
    Great post. I like how you compared them and also made a stand for the onewheel even though I don't think onewheel stand a chance against euc. I might be wrong but I have never thought about my wheel would be stolen. I often left it somewhere in a store if only for a short period of time. I don't think any thief knows how to ride it or even what it is.
  34. 1 like
    Now thats the type of chaotic evil shit im about LOL. Im super nice to people who are nice back, but my tolerance and patience for rude people is at an all time low. This is how im gonna die, LOL. Hit in a road rage incident.
  35. 1 like
  36. 1 like
    The pedals feel like the ACM pedals, just bigger
  37. 1 like
    RIght, plus going above 25km/h after 3 hours of experience is not a good idea either. It's much better for your health to experience the limits (which almost inevitably happens) at lower speed, plus, importantly, the margin to get over the limit becomes smaller with increasing speed.
  38. 1 like
    Off with the bubble wrap! On with the Body Protector + OneWheel! eWheel It was high time to rip off that ugly damn bubble wrap. It was an OK short term solution, but if I had to do it over, I would have gone with the Body Protector from the beginning. There were a couple spots where my ad-hoc protection didn't do the job. But what the hell, it's fairly unscathed considering how many times it got dumped on the pavement! I'm practicing starting and stopping. I'm jealous of watching experienced riders just step on and step off their wheels casually. Up til now, my mounts have been more of a push-off-hop-on-wobble-for-a-few-feet affair. Now I start with the left foot on the pedal and put my right foot next to the right pedal. I can apply some forward pressure and balance with the left and calmly bring up the right. Also, if I need to move my right foot, I can balance again on the left and skooch my foot into better spot. All that still needs work though. Same with the stops. I'm now able to balance at really low speeds, so I can come to a stop and step off the wheel without reaching out to grab it. I'm getting there. For the first time, I charged the battery to 100% and left it on the charger for an additional five hours to let it balance the cells (I hope that's enough time). But I didn't want to leave it at 100% so I took it out after the thunderstorms, at 9pm and rode it for an hour. I went ten miles messing around on twisty, fun bike paths accelerating and decelerating the whole time. And only managed to get the battery down to 93%. The range on these things! Amazing. I'm up to 96 KS miles now. OneWheel I got the OneWheel so my daughter could come out and ride with me. I thought it would be less intimidating and easier for her to learn. (eWheels are great but you have to be up for a challenge with the steep'ish learning curve.) We both learned to balance on it and ride after 10-15 minutes. I could have gotten the Pint for her, as she's a sixteen year old, 120 pound bean pole. But I couldn't have ridden it, it's range is 6-8 miles which means the fun's over after 30 minutes, they are slower and the Pints are backordered from here to eternity and beyond. One guy on the OW forum ordered his in March, and is expected to receive it in July. And if we are being honest, I also wanted to try the OneWheel and the Pint wouldn't work for me. Previously I downplayed the OneWheel because it was pricey, slow and had limited range compared to a similarly priced eWheel--which is accurate if you're just looking at a spec sheet. But the truth is the OneWheel is a blast to ride. The big fat comfortable tire handles road hazards just fine. Cruising down the sidewalk at 25kph feels fast. It's much more maneuverable than a skateboard--you can take very sharp turns, or even spin around with a twist of the hips. There are roads that would vibrate your feet off with the polyurethane wheels of a skateboard that the OneWheel just glides over. The build quality of the board is excellent, and the app is in a different league than any of the eWheel apps. On the inclines (I can't call them hills) the OneWheel seemed to have good power even with my 120kg of weight on it. I rode it for about half an hour (two wobbly "I just learned how to ride this thing" miles) and only used about 14% of the battery, so the stated range of 12-18 miles seems doable. There are a couple things you don't get from videos and photos. For one, the wheel itself is bigger and areas where you place your feet are smaller. As you can see in the photo, my (size 14) feet barely fit on there. Also, the OW is perpetually dirty after a ride. That big, soft tire picks up gravel, leaves, twigs or any other debris and plasters it to the underside of the board or the fender or it stays on the wheel itself. I rode my KS18xl in the exact same conditions, and it was no more dirty than when I left the house. I might carry around a stiff brush with me next time to clean off the OW before I put it in the car after a ride. An advantage of the OneWheel is that it stands by itself. No need to lean it up against something, when you stop, you just leave it wherever it is. But the downside is, you can't trolley it anywhere. And at 27 pounds, it's not exactly "light" to carry around. So which is better, a OneWheel or an electric wheel? It's kind of like asking, what's better a sports-car or a Jeep? They are both fun and different. It depends on what riding experience you want. And there is no reason you have to pick just one! A OneWheel could work for short commutes or just having a stress relieving jaunt after work. But if you're a speed demon or want to go for long rides, then you should go with a powerful eWheel. As @Jimmy Chang pointed out, the facing forward stance of an eWheel is more comfortable on long rides than the sideways, "twist to face forward" stance of the OneWheel. But the skateboard feel of the OneWheel is also nostalgic if you've ridden skateboards as a kid. If you twisted my arm and said I could only have one or the other. I'd still pick the eWheel because I like it on so many levels. It's not just the speed and the range. It's like an electric scooter where you've taken away the handlebars, the front wheel and the spot where you stand--how is that even possible? When you're out riding it, people will stop you and demand to know what it is and how it works. When you explain it to them, they still don't quite believe it.
  39. 1 like
    I think what we have here is, a bunch of gotway fanboys bashing 16X because they actually like the stealth look. But they’re going to buy the Nikola instead because it is available now. So to get mentally prepared for the Nikola they rave how beautiful the Nikola is and then state how ugly 16X looks. The Z10 IMHO is the best stealth looking EUC followed by the MSX. And now, the 16X IMHO is now second best, still not better looking than the Z10, but better looking than the MSX. Noticed how they all have the carbon fiber look. The Nikola is not a ugly wheel by no means, but it’s not stealthy looking, more like inmotion and kingsong had a baby. If you don’t like the look of something that fine, it’s all subjective views and that ok, but to start over-criticizing and bashing and calling thing ugly is SILLY! And if you don’t like any of these wheels, just remember there is always next year.
  40. 1 like
    How about just going by 2km/h slower on a regular basis?
  41. 1 like
    In addition to what the others have said one thing to check (unless you've already done so) is the tire pressure. Make sure you're at a good level, and you can also try experimenting a little bit with the pressure to see what you prefer.
  42. 1 like
    😂😂 People are so rude it’s funny. You should have told him it’s none of your business, and for the first guy i would have caught up to him at the next stop light and proceeded to maneuver in front of him and on the green light go as slow as possible so he would have to wait or illegally pass me out of his lane.
  43. 1 like
    Quite a slow seller it seems. I think they stopped producing them +6 months ago?
  44. 1 like
    Not really big and heavy, but after just around 50 km EUC experience I'm very proud of that. 🤣 Especially because this was the first time I had tried that. Start and stop at the first attempt without problems and a distance over 3 km with a struggling girl on my back. The last kilometer was then also a stony dirt road with potholes. 😅
  45. 1 like
    Why I Think The Nikola Is The Best Wheel At This Moment I’ve ridden it about 100-miles since Monday. I’ve taken on my first mountain test (picture above), climbing 5100-feet to ~11,000-feet. I’ve ridden it on tough rocky trails which demonstrated to me that it has superb low speed power (torque). First, if you have a MSX, KS18XL, etc., I’m not saying to necessarily run out and buy one. My commentary is for those of you who want to move up and have been torn as to which wheel to get. You can now safely skip the MSX, KS18XL, etc. The tire. It’s huge like the MSX. It’s wonderful like the MSX for dealing with crappy trails, roads, etc. But it’s a little bit smaller so you get better handling like a 16-inch wheel. I think this is the perfect size, between 16 & 18 inches. The tire is the main reason I say skip the KS18XL. The shell. It looks big (wide) but it’s an optical illusion because of the handle. But the shell actually has a nice taper away from the legs, unlike the MSX (which is more boxy). So it’s actually very comfy to ride and took me zero adjustment period like the Tesla, MSX, etc. The pedals. They don’t have the large dihedral angle like the MSX. Just your typical semi-flat angle. And they are huge. I did ride it through some snow (11,000-ft) and the ‘plastic grip tape’ does suck - slippery when wet 🙁 However, because your feet are lower compared to the MSX and the top of the shell isn’t ‘digging’ into your upper leg, The Nikola rides and handles like a dream. I don’t know of course until I ride one, but the 16X shell looks boxy like the MSX, where it hits your leg. Time will tell. Based on my rugged trail riding with the Nikola, it exhibits superb low speed power to slowly climb up and over very large rocks, etc. Going downhill also feels very secure. I have lots of wheels that I will continue to use for variety, etc., But I think The Nikola is now my wheel of choice for mountains, trails, long group rides, just about everything. And for you speed freaks, just buy the 100-volt version. Yes, there are negatives, but where it really counts (riding), The Nikola rules IMHO On a side note, I have now retired my ACM as the best all purpose wheel.
  46. 1 like
    That's a 14D, not 14S.
  47. 1 like
    I sure did! The tire was looking quite dull and the armorall made it come alive.
  48. 1 like
    Is that Canadian currency?
  49. 1 like
    I was riding on a quiet, residential street. It was a nice change of pace from the sidewalk of a busy street I had just been on. Ahh.. No traffic in sight, sun over my shoulder on a long, smooth, straight road. Just perfect for a beginner. It was a nice day in LA, birds were singing, wind in my hair, floating, gliding, flying along (at 20kph 🙄). A door flings wide open in front of me and I had to e-swerve, I couldn't hold it, stepped off, stumbled and rolled. I'm on the ground. My wheel is 30 yards down the road. Two freaked out people emerge and render any assistance they could. The juxtaposition of my ride up to that point and it's conclusion was startling. Even though I am aware of the danger of drivers pulling out or opening their doors I hadn't given a berth wide enough to allow for a flinging door opening. Also, it had been parked the entire time I was coming toward it, it had tinted windows, it was turned off and it had no lights on so there weren't any of the typical red flags. It's not only the things you can see, there's reason to be cautious of things you can't see. Tinted widows are now a red flag for me. This might be old news but I thought I'd share my experience. In addition to the obvious dangers I've added toys, animals, rc cars (and drones), tinted windows and letting my guard down. Oh, and that dance everyone does when two people walk toward each other and neither commits to a course? That can be tragic on a wheel at almost any speed. The general public's unfamiliarity with our transports may lead to the misconception that we have more control than we actually do. Balance is the sole reason we stay upright. We can't make sharp turns or stop quickly without precise control and balance. And emergencies don't often lend themselves to precision. I just defer to pedestrians altogether. I'm motored, they're not. Bicycles are the same. They have the right of way... always. In fact, as a wheel rider I place myself at the bottom of the totem pole. Arrive unscathed is the best motto.
  50. 1 like
    Oh SF... I kinda miss your craziness I had this happen to me on a motorcycle ride to work. She didn't really look crazy and i never understood what she meant or why she started kicking in my direction. I know i wasn't invading the pedestrian crossing (I hate people who do that) and I for sure couldn't have caught her by surprise since i was standing there for a few seconds before she showed up... Oh well... at least no foaming and no yelling. haha
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