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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Some caveats on the Nikola though, all solely based on my observations and what I have heard. 1. Pedals may not be level, there may be some units with very very slightly uneven pedals, giving u the feeling that one leg is dipped more than the other 2. Check your tire rotation when you wheel, some are known to wobble slightly, may be an issue with the axel. Massaging and resetting the tire didn’t seem to help 3. The side pads may force your legs a little too out, making them slightly bowed. Removing the pads may feel better but when you sweat against the plastic the feeling isn’t desirable. 4. Too many Gotway logos and the stickers may peel off easily, best to replace them with something else or remove it completely. 5. Trolley handle screws may not be tightened properly, do conduct a check before wheeling off. These are just some of my personal observations and you may not experience them. Just sharing.
  2. 4 points
    I think she’s getting the bug, too. I guess we need 2 wheels, no other logical progression (other than 3).
  3. 4 points
    It's metric M6x16 screw. You're right. This is why I replaced all the screws in both my KS-18L and KS-18XL to inox ones with allen key head. I advise you to do the same. It will allow you to easily disassemble your wheel multiple times. I advise to use following types as replacement: M6x16 ISO 7380 A2 (for pedal hanger) M3x6 DIN 912 A2 (for side covers)
  4. 4 points
    Well, my attempt was a bust. I started by taking a close look at the wheel/case, and indeed there is an asymmetry: This is with the wheel tilted onto its back, looking at it from the front, with the camera lens as centered as I could make it. Clearly there is less clearance on the right side of the wheel/case (the left side as seen in this image). So, I proceeded with the right side first, removing the 17 (!!!) screws that hold the outer shell in place on that side, disconnecting the LED strips, and lifting off the shell. Now I could see the battery pack, cables/connectors, and the pedal hanger screws I was aiming for: For a moment I thought they weren't Phillips heads, but upon closer examination I concluded they were large Phillips with some stripping from poorly done tightening. I got my biggest-head P2 screwdriver and got the first screw off (bottom right in the above image). It wasn't easy to get the screwdriver to bite, but I got it done. Then I tried the next screw (the second one from the right in the bottom row), and I just couldn't get the screwdriver to bite! These screws are badly stripped! As you can see, the bottom right screw is partially unscrewed. The others show the damage already done to the heads, but not by me! I only touched the bottom right and the one next to it. My screwdriver never touched the other 4 screws. Being unable to remove screw #2 I had to quit, so I re-tightened the screw I had managed to loosen, and proceeded with the very finnicky process of getting the outer shell fitted back on and tightened down, which took several attempts to get everything nicely aligned. the short machine screws used for this are really short, and hard to get to grab on to the threads in the inner case. I didn't even bother taking off the left side to see what things look like there. Btw while the outer shell on the right side was off, the inner case was touching the tire so I could hear/feel the rubbing even just free-spinning the tire. It was touching and rubbing right on the front right edge of the case. So that's where I stand. If anyone has a suggestion for how to get these screws off successfully, I will try again. Maybe P2 is not the right screwdriver head size? Also, if someone knows the precise screw size (#, thread pitch, and length), I'll probably head to the hardware store and get replacement screws for these damaged ones...but first I have to get these off! I can of course also just take a screw with me to the store and find the right type. Meanwhile the wheel is back in one piece, but it will have to continue to rub for now I guess. This is annoying given that I paid over $2,000 for this machine.
  5. 3 points
    You can scratch the complete water immersion test off your list. My truck went into a lake with my wife’s brand new KS 14C sitting in the back seat (she never even rode it). It was completely submerged for over an hour. No spontaneous combustion or fire from the packs. Extreme amounts of corrosion were found in the motor and on the main board when I performed an autopsy months later but there were no signs of any combustible melting of the wheel’s shell or it’s surrounding electrical components.
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    Although probably an isolated incident this discussion has heightened my awareness to the risks of EUC fires. I store my wheels inside my garage and have smoke alarms throughout my home but they will not extinguish the fire. This automatic fire extinguisher may offer some precious time to contain the fire before it evolves into an out of control situation. https://haven-firesafety.com/product/haven/ I purchased this extinguisher as it currently on sale for $155. I now plan to build a wheel enclosure using fire rated gypsum board. https://www.homedepot.com/p/ToughRock-Fireguard-45-TE-1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Gypsum-Board-12268/206967518 This is by no means a fool proof method given the intense heat generated by burning LIPO batteries but it should provide me some time to further contain the fire it this ominous scenario ever occurs.
  8. 3 points
    Maybe, before you drill them out, you can try one of these (I wouldn't recommend using impact drive, chisel or grinder though) And I totally agree with Seba on replacing them with allen key heads
  9. 3 points
    Originally M3x10 screws were used in KS-18L and first batches of KS-18XL, but later KS got several reports of breaking posts, causing side covers to be loose. So they reinforced screw posts by screwing the posts from the wheel chamber side also, effectively reducing remaining post thread height. But this only aplies to the posts used to screw side covers and this is why there are two screw lenghts used. However you can use M3x6 screws everywhere, as there is enough length of thread. Torx screws will be good as well - just use whatever is available to your or what tools do you have. Instead of inix, you can also use black steel screws, they are also very sturdy. PS. I also suggest you to reinforce posts with hot glue. This is easy and will provide much better protection in case of impact, because even with factory reinforcement there is still too small area over which impact forces are distributed.
  10. 3 points
    I don't think the more modern wheels shutoff at high speed anymore. Older wheels (say, 2015/2016 and before?) did that, either because the BMS cut off the power when the current rises too high, or the mainboard logics did that for whatever reason. It's not the gyroscope switching off as such, either the logics stopping the motor drive altogether and leaving it powerless or entirely losing power to the wheel due to BMS switching off the discharge-side, but like said, I don't think any modern wheels do this anymore. I probably should revise the first post at some point, speed-related cutouts could be nowadays better described as the motor back-EMF (voltage generated by the turning motor itself, it acts as a generator) rising too high and then not having enough voltage on the battery/mainboard-side to drive current through the motor. The motor torque drops linearly with speed because of this, and when the back-EMF equals the battery voltage, the current, and thus torque, becomes zero. Of course on an actual riding situation, it's more complex, as the needed torque changes a lot, and the battery voltage goes up and down depending on how much current is flowing.
  11. 3 points
    At least here in the western countries the legal system is very consumer protective. If a battery pack can catch fire, it's the manufacturers fault (just not if the manufacturer can prove ?grave? misuse). Having "normal" accidents with the unicycle, driving in light rain, moist enviroments, leaning it at a wall while charging definitely does and cannot not count as misuse! That's the regular use case for the wheels sold! Crashes are normal use cases for one wheeled driving devices by definition - no responsibility of the consumer can be constructed if outside visual inspection and mechanical function are iconspicuous! Seems we "bend the legal system a bit to the other way", since we love our EUCs and want to go on using them. Even knowing their shortcomings safetywise... Unfortionately there are not too much details about thermal runaways, risks analysis for using packs with partly aged/degraded cells on batteryuniversity.com. They just mention inbetween the posibility of thermal runaway. While the highest risks should be while charging/discharging of aged/degraded cells i understand from (1) that it can also happen everytime and everywere by "internal" shorts of such bad/degraded cells even without mechanical defects. And there is no control possibility/supervision in the EUC and no way for us users, but open the battery pack and measure all cell voltages! Which in many cases will not helpfull to increase safety... Most used BMS just look for single cell overvoltage/undervoltage and cut off the charger / wheel (2)(3) - without any feedback to the user. In addition most enclosed chargers are ähmmm, how to say,... crap. If they are not already misadjusted from the beginning ?they can seriously misadjust over time? The internal voltage measurements from the wheels of the battery voltage can be way off, too. So the little chances one has to supervise the battery state render quite useless... It's not the customers duty and responibility to adjust/inspect the charger, open the wheel and/or the battery packs and control the voltages! And these are not seldom individual cases - "my battery does not charge to 100%" reports are here way too often! Here (4) again a new report of a wheel with a misadjusted charger, with internal voltage measurement beeing off by ~1.7V and one of the two battery packs just charging up to ~77-80V instead of 84V. Most presumably he got bad/not properly matched cells already from the beginning... ;( So, although EUC "quality" increased steadily over the years, imho with the battery packs the situation still is embarassing. Furtionately the risk is very low, but since the worst case is a fire hazard never charge the wheel unaddended, have proberly working smoke detectors(5) at the storage places, store it best outside the living area (but not in a shed getting hot in summertime and below freezing in wintertime) and replace with quality battery packs, once the "performance degrades". .... and we should push the manufacturers to use BMS, which can supervise the battery and cell states in a valid, secure and reliable manner! I am just somehow afraid that with such a change we are likely to see such faults like with ninebots happen and/or wheels cutting off while driving like in the first generation again... ;( Beside the inbetween Inmotion battery disaster, this is now the second case of fire reported here! I am happy and a bit surprised that there are not more incidents happening! There should be already masses of old/long used big battery packs circulating. Do most riders change wheels often enough? Or the li ion cell quality is as high that such a fire hazard risk is fortunately really low? (1) https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/safety_concerns_with_li_ion "Let’s examine the inner workings of the cell more closely. A mild short will only cause elevated self-discharge and the heat buildup is minimal because the discharging power is very low. If enough microscopic metallic particles converge on one spot, a sizable current begins to flow between the electrodes of the cell, and the spot heats up and weakens. As a small water leak in a faulty hydro dam can develop into a torrent and take a structure down, so too can heat buildup damage the insulation layer in a cell and cause an electrical short. The temperature can quickly reach 500C (932F), at which point the cell catches fire or it explodes. This thermal runaway that occurs is known as “venting with flame.” “Rapid disassembly” is the preferred term by the battery industry." (2) Does GW still have no output protection, so the pack will go on beeing used although a cell can have serious undervoltage? (3) Ninebot started now with better BMS looking and reporting all single cell voltages and looking at the overall state of each battery pack. Would be a great step in the right direction, if they did not overly drain the batteries doing so (by some design faults). Even worse by this drain many Ninebot wheels get delivered with overly discharged batteries which have to be "revived" - noone really knows if these cells did not already had serious undervoltage for too long and are by this dangerously degraded increasing risk for hazard.... (4) https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/13481-msx-still-not-happy-with-battery-☹️/?page=2 (5) great comment @Rainu - smoke detectors will get my third standart advice beside no unattended charging charging and tampering with the cells!
  12. 3 points
    EURO ROAD TRIP 400km ( with english subtitles) Step Metz - Luxembourg This episode returns to the portion between Metz and Luxembourg where, guided by Fabrice from Thionville, we walked along the Moselle rivers.
  13. 3 points
    I would say that by charging in this way you increase the risk of self-ignition of the battery in the longer run. Battery cells DO imbalance with time and mileage, it's just unavoidable. There are always small variances between each cell, even in new. This variation increases over time and usage. By charging to 80% you effectively disables BMS balancing feature, so it's possible that after some longer time cell voltages will start to differ significantly. It's a short way to SINGLE cell failure, then SINGLE cell self-ignition causing a WHOLE wheel to stand on fire... If you ride frequently, just charge it to full after each ride. If you don't plan to ride soon, leave your wheel as is or charge it partially to ~50% if was almost depleted. That's all.
  14. 3 points
    Thanks all for info and advice. Especially @mrelwood for the detailed shell realignment attempt instructions. I’m 205lbs (that’s 93kg) btw. In the video I was riding straight and intentionally shifting the bulk of my weight onto the right foot, to the point the left foot was starting to come off it’s pedal. I have no desire to ride one-legged, this was just a way to exaggerate the problem so it could be heard clearly in the video. In normal writing, what I am hearing is a slight rhythmic rubbing sound all the time, except when I lean left (it goes away then). When I lean right, on the other hand, or mount with the right foot first, or dismount onto the left foot, or in general shift weight to the right for any reason, the rubbing intensifies as you can hear in the video My conclusion from the replies is that the wheel is rubbing the inside of the shell, and that this is not an immediate safety concern. It is also probably not a serious manufacturing defect requiring an actual repair or part replacement , so much as a misalignment aggravated by very tight clearance of this design. Hence, I’m going out for one last neighborhood training ride right now, despite the rubbing. This is because the weather is great, I have about two hours of sunlight left, and I want to get one last session in before tomorrow’s acid test on a populated trail. This evening I will take the wheel into the house and perform the realignment attempt. I will report back! Thanks again, all.
  15. 3 points
    Derby Wharf - Salem, MA
  16. 2 points
    I'd like to suggest to add an extra profile field for us the users to type what EUC/s we currently own/ride. For example see attached.
  17. 2 points
    Yes, it's possible now.
  18. 2 points
    I'd skip the cheap clamshell bike helmets, like Triple 8, etc. You'll get no protection from facial and dental injuries which are likely if you have a classic faceplant. I use the Bell Super 3R, and the TSG Pass Pro in cooler weather. Both look cool and are super lightweight (less than 1kg). The Bell has MIPS, comes in lots of colors, and is convertible - you can remove the chin bar if you still want to use it as a clamshell. It has fantastic ventilation and can be found on sale for $100-150 on Amazon if you're patient. The Super 2R is essentially the same and can sometimes be found for less. If you want even more safety the Bell Super DH costs a little more but is fully DH-rated. Both helmets are @Rehab1 tested and approved! I also have the TSG Pass Pro (~$350 on sale) which is an awesome helmet, but more expensive and hard to find. It's svelte and sexy and fits like a glove, but it's too hot for me in the summer, and my face shield fogs easily on very cold days. It's downhill-rated and certified for bikes and skateboards in Europe.
  19. 2 points
    Before damaging the wheel in any way, you could start off with putting the wheel (turned off) in a box with some form of heating which you can control. Keep it at, say 60 degrees Celsius (140F), and if nothing happens, ramp it up to higher. The point is to simulate a wheel sitting in a hot car in summer: "“When temperatures outside range from 80 degrees to 100 degrees, the temperature inside a car parked in direct sunlight can quickly climb to between 130 to 172.”" 172 Fahrenheit is about 78 degrees Celsius. I doubt anything happens, the cells aren't supposed to start thermal runaway until they heat up to something like 125 or 150C (about 250-300F).
  20. 2 points
    Just to clarify for others. The Mten3 is not ideal for rough roads because of the small diameter tire, but it's a little tank of a wheel with extreme power. The i5 is a weak wheel that will self-destruct.
  21. 2 points
    old topic, but for future reference, a single yellow led flashing on each side means that no motor was detected.
  22. 2 points
    Doesn't really make a difference why the motor switches off It does if you ignore all the warnings. It's simple: always look where you are going. Always as in "every single second, no kidding". The second you don't look, there will be a crazy unlikely obstacle just this moment, that's how it always goes Looking will also drive the subconscious process or riding in a matter so possible obstacles are considered or avoided. Or a car hits you. Don't expect a crash due to the electronics failing. It can happen, no way around it, a EUC is inherently unstable and only kept upright by the electronics, so any failure there means crash. But it is extremely unlikely, so unlikely it's not worth considering (not that you can see it coming anyways). Your protective gear also covers this fringe case. Worry about crashes you or someone else causes.
  23. 2 points
    New users are restricted to 3 posts in 24 hours not 2. Unfortunately this is necessary for spam prevention. However I have just changed it to 5 instead of 3. As your reputation increases due to the quality of your posts that number goes to as high as 100.
  24. 2 points
    I agree that solar can’t be the only solution. I think solar is more of a stop gap. We have to start somewhere. We need to start reducing our use of the finite resources. ‘For me solar made economic sense. It was $0.10 cheaper per kWh. I understand that it may not be the case in your part of the world and you may have something better and cheaper to jump on toor maybe nothing is cheaper. We are all not rich and cant just do this without some economic incentive to do so. I wouldn’t worry about the efficiency of the solar panels so much. When designing a system you have already taken that into consideration and also the peak generation of power during ,months and days. I’m not asking for us to go off grid now, but it is clear to me and hope it is clear to most is that we cannot continue to use the finite resources. we must transition to sustainable power usage. Could be a combo of solar, wind, wave, geothermal, biogas, etc...
  25. 2 points
    Marty, rain doesn’t mean no electricity. Just means less. It isn’t pitch black outside when it rains. This is a common misconception. I have a 17kw system and over the life of the system I would save $34k in electricity. I pay $0.08 per kWh, the power company charges $0.18 per kWh. I make over 17,000 kWh per year. I’ve had it since 2013. Not off grid, but supplement. Some people don’t like the look of the panels, some do. Just like with the look of the GW wheels. LOL. But Tesla has come out with some pretty sweet looking shingles that are indestructible. Makes sense for anyone replacing their roof. It looks just like any other roof. ‘This has to be the way to go. If we all added solar to our roof top, then we would use less fossils fuels. It’s all about sustainability. BTW, zero maintenance. I use to think I had to wash them. The rain does that. I’ve not done anything to them for the last 6 years. They are supposed to last 30+ years. I leased it for 20. Tesla comes to fix anything wrong with it since they own it. At the end. I can buy for $7k and use it for the rest of the life of the cells.
  26. 2 points
    That option is in the making:
  27. 2 points
    On top of this and the V10's (This is a single incident, but apparently the problem was more common place with the early V10's, enough to warrant for the company to recall wheels / send water-proofing kit for the packs to the owners), there's at least one Ninebot One fire reported recently: Someone made a mistake in changing a tire and blew up their pack: Also, Marty made a video of someone's ACM that caught fire after a crash, somewhere there was a picture of some other Gotway burning up on the street, and @meepmeepmayer reported of a KS18A that burned partially. Back in 2015/2016, there was at least one newspaper article of a generic catching fire while charging, but likely there were more cases than just that one. Probably others I've already forgotten about, and there might be reports in the forums floating that I haven't even read... Plus there's a lot of riders outside these forums, so it's not like we even hear of every incident. Still, likely an actual fire or explosion is relatively rare, I'd hazard a guess that most of the times the batteries die a more silent death.
  28. 2 points
    The maximum possible torque decreasing linear over the speed is already including the internal resistance of battery and motor (ie the battery voltage drop over the internal resistance). Just the additional voltage drop by the cell chemistry, which recovers again after the burden is released, decreases this values tempararily. And the discharge of the cells, of course continousily. With: U_battery_0 .... idle voltage of the battery R_i = R_i_battery + R_i_motor .... internal resistance of the "system" v_max_no_load .... maximum motor speed, with U_back_emf == U_battery_0 and no current flowing so kv = U_battery_0 / v_max_no_load The torque is proportional to the motor current ( M = km * I), so i just consider the max motor current here. One gets the max stall current I_max_(v=0) = U_battery_0 / R_i = 168A. For a given speed v U_back_emf(v) = v * kv. So I_max(v) = (U_battery_0 - U_back_emf(v))/R_i = (U_battery_0 - v*kv)/R_i. This I_max(v) over speed is a straight line regarding already the battery voltage drop over R_i_battery from the flowing current. And with M = km * I one has the maximum torque over speed limit as straight line regarding this, too. Edit: PS.: What i forgot and what i not to think of in detail is, what happens once one regards the inductance of the motor coils .... . I'd assume then one is at this more complex, about chaotice system you mentioned...
  29. 2 points
    I'm certainly not against solar, in my opinion it should be used a lot more in places where there's sunshine all year around. As for providing energy on a global scale, it's a no-go, not as the main form of producing energy, need to have backup. Here's the sun's radiation energy over a year where I live: On the left is average kilowatthours per square meter over the entire month from January (1) through December (12). On the right is the annual average amount of solar radiation power in different cities in Finland, I'm in the middle (1127kWh / m^2 / year). These are before the losses due to panel efficiency. Most of the energy is needed between November (11) and end of March (3), as that's when its coldest. Incidentally, not much sunshine during that time either. On winter days, the consumption is usually something like 60-100+kWh (when it's really cold, electric heating). I was offered a 3kW system installed for 12000€ (which is a rip-off price, really) a number of years back, with no energy storage. That's about 3-4 month median income (before taxes) in Finland. Probably could get such for half that price, still not really cheap IMO. The inverter needs to be replaced after around 15 years (but it's only 500€), the panels have warranty for at least 80% of nominal power output up to 25 years. After that, who knows...
  30. 2 points
    The risk is not zero. There will be manufacturing defects, accumulated damage, water ingress, etc. I'd take an educated guess and say the risk of it spontaneously combusting is a lot higher than that of Teslas (the car) that have an active BMS with cooling/heating and generally go through less abuse than an EUC. Teslas have caught fire sitting on lots. Some people seem to be brushing it off or blaming the guy for having too many miles on the wheel. It's just an EUC, no sense in getting emotionally defensive about it. I do know if my wheel caught fire unattended, I'd most likely lose my house. I believe the odds are low enough that my two wheels are still in the garage and will remain there. I won't tempt fate by leaving my wheels plugged in though. Just 90% charge from here on out with an occasional top-off for balancing.
  31. 2 points
    All I can say is you're living in a dream world. Fossil fuels have much high energy densities that solar or wind. You've made a bunch a sweeping statements that are meaningless. What does "Solar beats all other forms of energy" mean? It's feel good verbiage. Minor power banks for nights? When I turn on my tablesaw the minor power banks will be drained in about 5-minutes. But I suppose I'll just have to alter my lifestyle so we can feel good about going solar. And when it's raining? It's been cloudy in Southern California the last couple of days. But no problems, just spend a couple of trillion dollars building battery backups. If solar and wind could be a drop-in replacement at the same cost, count me in. But it hasn't. Solar has just become a new religion for many people.
  32. 2 points
    Thanks for your responses and for all the helpful information, esaj, Kens, Lefteris, and travsformation. I think I’m starting to gain an appreciation for the nature of these interesting beasts! For those people who ride often and tend to approach top speeds, it sounds like UPD faceplants will inevitably occur at some point. Now I can see why comprehensive safety gear makes a lot of sense. Can’t wait to join the community of 21st century BCers!
  33. 2 points
    They said the same about electric cars 6 years ago. They thought electric cars were crazy. Look at what is happening now, every car manufacturer is committed to going full electric in the next 5 years. Now Tesla is the best selling car in the luxury class. Eating BMW/AUDI/Mercedes lunch. Those guys now playing catch up. When you think about the numbers they are crazy. To go full electric we would need about 200 gigabattery factories about 5 bil each. You are right, there is a lot to figure out. If they figured it out already we wouldn't be having this discussion. You also may be right about the timing. But you may very see a shortage of gasoline in your lifetime. Hopefully the car manufactures start making more electric cars so that we won't run out of gasoline so soon.
  34. 2 points
    But during normal riding, the tire should never be bumping into the shell. If nothing else that's going to affect your gas mileage
  35. 2 points
    Turbo Tony's recent fall in SF at near 40mph on an MSX was knee to belly flop/slide (superman). He got up with just road rash...remarkable! He had much gear on and that gear definitely protected him. Not sure if he could reproduce such a dramatic fall again with so few injuries. Miami Ron did 37 on a Tesla and did wrist to shoulder and ended with dislocation. The collection of stories and videos seem to be don't use hands to shoulder technique. Although, at high-speed, there seems to be some luck involved as things happen to fast to properly prepare for the given situation.
  36. 2 points
    again, not everyone needs to supercharge. 99% of the people charge at home with 10kw over night. most house holds in the us has 200a to their house. but they don't use anywhere close to that. It's actually the business that use a lot of electricity and peak hours is during the day. I'm in the north east and I could have gotten off grid with 25kw solar. i produce more than i need during the summer and need some help during the winter with my 17kw system. with rooftop solar, will require less and less electricity from other sources. Also with some battery storage at home should be able to go off grid. Even if I need to charge my car. Solar panels last 30+ years. Yes they are not 100% efficient but don't think they need to be for them to work today. With less efficiency just cost more and take up more space for the given watt output. Doesn't mean it doesn't work. We have transmission loss today. No different. Only difference is that we where the electricity comes from. Can't come from coal, natual gas, or gasoline for ever. These are finite. next 20-30 years will be really interesting.
  37. 2 points
    Oh man. Stop saying a Onewheel is like snowboarding. This is exactly what i want to fill my snowboarding void. But a Onewheel inn London. Not sure about that. The pint range is so pants though. I could live with 12mph speed if i at least get the snowboard sensation. But 6 miles. Come on man. That really is nothing at all. I wonder where the city dwellers would ride this? Park? Would a hilly park make it feel even more like snowboarding?!
  38. 2 points
    As has already been said, it depends on a variety of factors, but high-speed dismounts are almost guaranteed to end in a faceplant, simply because you can't outrun the wheel. If you can, it depends on the nature of the fall, the angle, how your weight is distributed when you dismount (centered, all to one side because you're turning, etc). Electronic failures are extremely rare in modern EUC's, the only thing you need to worry about are cutouts, which are also pretty much guaranteed to end in a faceplant. Cutouts are basically when the wheel switches off the gyroscope due to an excessive power demand, as a safety mechanism to prevent the wheel from being fried. This can happen in several different scenarios, but they all boil down to a sudden surge in current : - Overlean: you accelerate / lean forward too aggressively, asking the wheel for too much power at once - Accidental overlean: this isn't an issue at low speeds, but if you're near the wheel's max. speed (so it doesn't have much margin to deliver a sudden surge of power), and a) you hit a bump and become airborne for a split second, and land leaning forward, or b) don't become airborne but your weight shifts suddenly forward when you hit the bump (as it tends to happen), the wheel interprets this as a sudden power demand that it can't deliver, and cuts off the power to the gyroscope. Which is why it's important to be very vigilant when near the wheel's top speed, and why it's advisable to buy a wheel whose max. speed is higher than your intended cruising speed. Many such accidents can be prevented by knowing your wheel's limitations and applying common sense: If your wheel's maximum speed is, say, 30 km/h, don't ride near its top speed on roads /paths that are bumpy or you aren't familiar with (potholes, unmarked speed bumps, etc. ) , for instance, or you risk a cutout. - Speed-related cutouts: when you simply push your wheel past its limits to the point where torque is near zero and it can't deliver the power you're demanding. Cutout related faceplants are the nastiest IMO, as it isn't so much of a forward fall, but a downward, face first fall... Since you're relying on the gyroscope to keep you upright, and leaning forward when it happens, when the gyroscope switches off...you can imagine how it goes... Some falls and dismounts are inevitable (unexpected obstacles, etc), but many others (inattention, lack of spatial awareness, excessive speed, lack of experience and overconfidence, as @esaj pointed out) are completely preventable, and IMHO, cutout related faceplants are at the very top of the list. That's why it's worth taking the time to learn how these machines work and what the limitations of your particular wheel are.
  39. 2 points
    Today, batteries can take a lot of current. Tesla started supercharging at 90kw, now it is up to 250kw. We only need it to get up to ~1 megawatt to charge in 5 minutes a 85kwh battery pack. As for cannot create enough energy? We only need very little space on earth to create enough energy for the whole world. Solar has become so cheap and the more folks that put solar on their roof top, the more less energy the powerplants have to generate. In Hawaii, they generate too much power from solar. Biogas has been around for a while. Nothing has come of it because it stinks. LOL. Can't generate enough of it. Or no one is willing to generate enough. Battery electric is the way to go solar and batteries for storage. I like Elon's idea. Need to get more renewable energy sources. The oil will run out, so will coal.
  40. 2 points
    Fusion is always 50 years away in the future, no matter what decade you check Still, if can be made to work, it's a good option. Personally, I don't think we can get enough renewable sources (wind-, solar-, waterpower) to produce enough electricity all the time, so unless a breakthrough is made in fusion, a very efficient and "cheap enough" way to store vast amounts of electrical energy or superconductors working in normal environmental conditions to transfer power from solar panels near the equator (someone claimed a couple of years back that such technology was about to be made, I remain skeptical), the future is likely a mixture of renewables + nuclear energy (in the form of fission plants). Unfortunately, most plants are light water plants. The US had a working prototype of a breeder reactor capable of not only recycling its own spent uranium and work with recycled uranium from light water plants (there's something like >99% of the energy left, but it cannot be used in light water plants anymore), also safe from total power loss. They actually tested it at some point by turning off all cooling, the heat spiked for a moment, then died off and the reaction stopped by itself, ie. a case like Fukushima. Sometime in the 90's, the public opinion turned against nuclear power, the funding was cut and the project died off. Likely a big part of it is also that making breeder reactors is insanely expensive compared to "traditional" light water reactors, and nobody wants to pay that much for their electricity... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breeder_reactor Breeder reactors could, in principle, extract almost all of the energy contained in uranium or thorium, decreasing fuel requirements by a factor of 100 compared to widely used once-through light water reactors, which extract less than 1% of the energy in the uranium mined from the earth. ... Nuclear waste became a greater concern by the 1990s. Breeding fuel cycles attracted renewed interest because of their potential to reduce actinide wastes, particularly plutonium and minor actinides.[12] Since breeder reactors on a closed fuel cycle would use nearly all of the actinides fed into them as fuel, their fuel requirements would be reduced by a factor of about 100. The volume of waste they generate would be reduced by a factor of about 100 as well. While there is a huge reduction in the volume of waste from a breeder reactor, the activity of the waste is about the same as that produced by a light-water reactor.[40]
  41. 2 points
    A lot of people here have already mentioned their advice for not getting the Mten3. I am going to give you my advice on why it could work. I use the Mten3 daily on my 20 mile round trip. I carry with my at all times a backpack large enough to hold the wheel comfortably so if I ever needed to carry it or conceal it I can do so. It's lightweight and easy to carry, for the most part. First is, the average top speed you will get with it will be 16-18 mph and reliable range is always half what's advertised, making it at around 12 miles. The only way I can recommend this wheel for commuting is if you also take a bus/trolly/train/(insert other mode of transport here). I take a bus that picks me up a few blocks from my home and drops me off about a mile from my work. If you decide to ride just an EUC for all your commuting, all the time, year round, expect to trek through some uncomfortable weather. In times where it's pouring down rain you probably don't want to ride 12 miles through it on any wheel. If there is over an inch of snow you may not be able to use the Mten3 at all. In conditional weather where you're going to take a roofed mode of transport, I recommend the Mten3. As a new rider with little to no riding experience, foot strain/cramping is common on long rides. This is more pronounced on smaller petaled EUCs like the Mten3. You will experience this on every wheel and it will lessen the more experience you gain. [TLDR] If you decide to go through with a EUC purchase for commuting the whole distance, get a larger wheel with large foot petals. If you decide to take an additional method of transportation in addition to the wheel, the Mten3 will be just fine.
  42. 2 points
    Received my XL this morning. Screwed the XL pedals on and put it on the charger for 4 hours, trolleyed to the gas station to pump up the tire. Then i went behind the gas station on a parking lot to get a feel for it, took me ten minutes to feel @ home, i thought it would take longer as i didn’t ride any other wheel than my KS16C. What an amazing wheel, i love it, and riding at higher speeds without waiting for the alarm is a blast. Had lots of fun today Ended up with a 55km ride with 75% battery left. bonus: didn’t have any problems with the app.
  43. 2 points
    Marty, there are lots of things you mention are out of date. Gas cars had 100 years to mature, electric just the past 6 years. It has already surpassed gasoline cars in performance and convenience. Tesla Model 3 beat out the M3 in head to head. The model 3 is cheaper. Motortrend back in 2017 - https://www.motortrend.com/cars/tesla/model-s/2017/2017-tesla-model-s-p100d-first-test-review/ "We all understand acceleration. It's the rate of change of velocity. This 4,891-pound Tesla Model SP100D does it best, reaching 30, 40, 50, and 60 mph from a standstill more quickly than any other production vehicle we've ever tested, full stop. In our testing, no production car has ever cracked 2.3 seconds from 0 to 60 mph. But Tesla has, in 2.275507139 seconds." There is a electric pickup available for preorder already - https://products.rivian.com/ you name any other pick up that can do 0-60 in 3 sec. the fastest production car on the planet will be the Tesla Roaster. Cost? 1/15th the price of the comparable gas car. Gas is dead. The irony marty is that you are riding electric unicycles. Where is the gas unicycle? Look at all the gas scooters out there. There are none, they are all electric. The fastest car up pikes peak? electric. not gas. You premise that electric car is worse for the environment is flawed. There is no choice where you get your gas from. It is limited, the earth took billions of years to make it from dead stuff. Electric there are many choices where you get your electricity from. Just because the plants are still using coal doesn't mean it is worst for the environment. I'll take the plant making electricity and polluting elsewhere rather than the cars making the pollution in the city. The argument is that you can make the big machine efficient and cleaner than you can make a car. Battery and charging will get there. Before Tesla came along there wasn't even the idea of supercharging. It isn't a 5 minute fill up yet. But for the most part people who do the majority of their driving is to and from work. You take 5-10 minute filling up gas at a gas station inhaling the cancer causing fumes. it takes me 2 seconds to plug it in at night. Long distance or supercharging has already come a long way. To be mildly inconvenience when going on a road trip? I need to take a break from 3-4 hours of driving. That 20-25 minutes pit stop will allow me to charge the car to get to the next pit stop. It works. It will get to 5 minutes. I wouldn't bet on Gasoline cars.
  44. 2 points
    Sitges (35 km south of Barcelona, Spain)
  45. 2 points
    Our wheels don't have sophisticated active battery management and thermal runaway protection that Tesla has built into every car. If you only knew the steps that Tesla has taken to prevent their cars from going up in smoke. You are 10X more likely to crash and burn in a gasoline car(ICE) than BEV. You crash in a ICE, can be instant explosion. You crash in a Tesla, even if it starts a chain reaction, you have lots of time to get out. It's more like fire crackers and it is vented away from the cabin. I've owned three Tesla's now over the last 6 years. What should be banned is gasoline cars. And it will be eventually.
  46. 2 points
    If one wheel can burn a office building, can all your wheels together burn California ? :-o Just kidding, sorry, it was an easy one... :-)
  47. 2 points
    This is the information we have so far: The Wheel had 7000km, in 9 months, when it was sent in for repair in late November It had sustained multiple crashes (David had written this in an earlier communication), destroyed inner-shell, chew-up motor wires, which also destroyed the controller; it was a unique specimen of a damaged Wheel. We have a good documentary trail for this repair. When it was sent back out, everything was changed except the battery pack. There was no visual indication, or other evidence that anything was wrong with the pack at that time. Assuming that it had done similar mileage over the intervening 5 months, it had then clocked up a further 4000+ km; possible subsequent crash damage? Quite probably. He had been using only the standard 2A charger with the Wheel, he has also confirmed it was not charging at the time it lit up. His therapist is another first-hand eye-witness account who can corroborate what exactly happened at the time. I will be contacting both the therapist & the NY Fire Department to assist in the investigation. At this moment, it's not clear what evidence is recoverable from the site. If one had to speculate into causation, then based on what we know from the V10F affair, if water does permeate into the cells, accelerated corrosion will cause a short between the electrodes, creating a runaway cell thermal chain reaction. Understandably David is in a state of shock & is angry, replacing the Wheel is small beans; what is important to me, is that we have a clearer picture on causation, so a similar event does not happen again. As bad as the situation is, it might have been a whole lot worse!
  48. 2 points
    I thought this was about to rhyme and @LanghamP was gonna go Dr Seuss on us
  49. 2 points
    A wheel should be safe to charge off a stand. It should be safe to charge when it falls off-hand. It should be safe to start regardless of you be young or an old fart. Design it, I say, for both frownies and gays, as some of us townies ride minutes and others ride for days. Drop, and we pop (say I the wheel), and while others have helmets we who don't bother have platelets (for the asphalt God is greedy for riders who be batty). Fire, nah, 'tis only for hilclimbing fools, not dire New Yorkers riding Kingsong's jewels.
  50. 2 points
    Based on how rude this guy is I would want no interactions with him and would doubt what he did say. I'm really wary of people like this.
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