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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    A bit of water fun
  2. 4 points
    User serviceable modular design sound swell. Another thing that should be all pervasive is an industry standard for a self-check routine in the EUC. Reporting on battery health, bad cells, BMS errors, control board overloads, exceptions or any abnormalities and so on. Presented in an easy to evaluate interface: Battery check - pack A: 90% health, no degraded cells / pack B: 92% health, no degraded cells / pack C: 85% health, one degraded cell 70% health / pack D: 87% health, no degraded cells BMS check: BMS A: no errors / BMS B: current spike reported, within normal parameters / BMS C: compensatory balancing slightly outside normal parameters / BMS D: no errors Control board: Gyro A: all reports normal / Gyro B: all reports normal / Gyro C: all reports normal / Capacitors: within normal parameters / MOS: All mos within normal parameters Firmware: Exceptions within normal parameters. Total system health 90%, you're good to go!
  3. 4 points
    It's very hard not to agree with your statement... My suggestion to manufs would be the following. 4 USER serviceable modules. Wheel/motor/pedals module. 6+6+2 screws. The last two screws for a sealed connector for 3 phases and Hall sensors. Battery modules. Parallel additional ones if and when needed. Smart leveling implemented to avoid inrush currents from high voltage module to low voltage ones. Controller module. Chassis module, contains all wirings for the above modules. Including MECHANICAL on off switch. Of course, if possible standardization across the brand and (yeaah sure!!????) manufacturers.
  4. 3 points
    Just a small update. I've been doing some more tests with my equipment here. 2 observations: 1) Both of my watches seem to keep a pretty solid connection with my wheel once they are initially connected. They also seem to have a pretty decent range, and keep connected consistently within 10 meters or so (depending on what's in the way). 2) I feel like the battery life should be much better if anyone's going to take this on a long ride. I'm dropping about 1% battery per minute, which I feel like is a bit high, even with the constant updating display. Before I go much further with anything else, I will be looking to improve efficiency.
  5. 3 points
    Welcome and congrats! 1) first week, feet hurt. ( it gets much easier) 2) 15 minutes a day and you will learn. 3) look forward not down. 4) foot position makes a difference. 5) protect the ankles and shins. They get hit during the learning period. Wear wrist guards and helmet. 6)
  6. 3 points
    IMPORTANT UPDATE ON LUTALO'S 18L FOR SALE IN PARIS. She's on the way home so I am cancelling the listing. I am going to keep my Black Beauty. Can hardly wait to see her again. 😍😍😍
  7. 3 points
    Well, I did not want to over react to your post. You are right, sort off, but... I am not sure the manufs ignore the US "footprint". This is a much bigger can of worms than you realize from a design point of view. I am not sure I really want to enter into a counter rant of 300 words. Suffice to say that pedal shape, height, length, angle and wheel sensitivity are a blend that is not as trivial as one may want to think specially considering the different riding styles that our wheels have to deal with. Enough said, for the moment... BTW this is why some people have so many different Wheels, they ride one for the "mood" they are in..
  8. 2 points
    From Amazon USA SPEDWHEL Original Controller Mainboard for Ninebot One Z10 Electric Scooter Unicycle Skate Hoverboard Mother Board Parts (Control Board)by SPEDWHEL$150.60 SPEDWHEL Ninebot One Z6 Z8 Z10 Scooter Spare Parts Headlight Decorative Shell Z Series Electric Unicycle Accessoriesby SPEDWHEL$28.80 SPEDWHEL Ninebot One Z6 Z8 Z10 Scooter Spare Parts Headlight Assembly Z Series Electric Unicycle Accessoriesby SPEDWHEL$38.20 SPEDWHEL Ninebot One Z6 Z8 Z10 Scooter Repare Parts Gas Plug for MK3 Scooter Repare Parts for Z Seriesby SPEDWHEL$19.80 SPEDWHEL Soft Pad for Ninebot one Z6/Z10 Electric Unicycle (Upper&Lower PAD(4PCS))by SPEDWHEL$72.80 Original Hand Lever of Ninebot one Z6/Z10 Electric Unicycle by Segwayby SPEDWHEL$56.00 SPEDWHEL Pedals for NINEBOT Z6 Z10 Electric Unicycle scoooter (1 Piece)by SPEDWHEL$36.80 SPEDWHEL Original Fender Mudguard for Ninebot one Z6/Z10 Electric Unicycleby SPEDWHEL$29.80 With Banggood Front Light Electric Unicycle Bright LED For XIAOMI Ninebot One Z10 Z6 Z8 Scooter Price:US$27.99
  9. 2 points
    I decided to make my first video post today. I went out on my Monster for lunch today. No action camera goodness like many of you, just a simple, short video I shot on my phone while cruising through the pedestrian park near Nissan Stadium and Downtown Nashville. There's even reference to the site of my first big EUC crash near the end.
  10. 2 points
    My first vid.. Cruising Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. The camera makes it look like I'm much closer to pedestrians that I actually was. I loved messing with security at the end.
  11. 2 points
    Well I hope so @Lutalo. 2pcs of stems v3 ordered and paid. Now it is like little xmas...waiting until pars arrive. Shipping out tomorrow with expected 3-4days shipping. I spoke with Ryszard from eunicycles.eu as @Seba suggested. He helped me out and setup items so we could complete my order today and settle payment to avoid further delays. So with a little luck I will be able to ride again early next week. I really need to get a secound wheel.
  12. 2 points
    They probably won't but something like the FMI-codes would do wonders both for rider protection and for customer service.
  13. 2 points
    Sounds like the FMI-codes/levels/whatever you call them (Failure Mode Identifier) in automotive standards, they tell additional information about (suspected) problems with some value ("data", which could be anything like in case of an EUC, battery cell voltage, motor RPM, component temperature or angle reported by IMU etc.) by indicating how severely out of whack the value is from what it should be, or how it's otherwise suspicious: FMI SAE Text 0 Data valid but above normal operational range - Most severe level 1 Data valid but below normal operational range - Most severe level 2 Data erratic, intermittent or incorrect 3 Voltage above normal, or shorted to high source 4 Voltage below normal, or shorted to low source 5 Current below normal or open circuit 6 Current above normal or grounded circuit 7 Mechanical system not responding or out of adjustment 8 Abnormal frequency or pulse width or period 9 Abnormal update rate 10 Abnormal rate of change 11 Root cause not known 12 Bad intelligent device or component 13 Out of calibration 14 Special instructions 15 Data valid but above normal operating range - Least severe level 16 Data valid but above normal operating range - Moderately severe level 17 Data valid but below normal operating range - Least severe level 18 Data valid but below normal operating range - Moderately severe level ... Although I highly doubt EUC manufacturers would adopt standards from automotive industry
  14. 2 points
    I just now ordered (I hope) those black stems. I am waiting to get confirmation on the order from the dealer @Seba suggested. It is the same dealer I got my large pedals from. I managed to get the stuck stem out so I think it is all straight forward form here. Anyway thanks to all whom contributed to. It is very appreciated on my behalf. It is nice to have a community to turn to in need.
  15. 2 points
    Thx, the water sound is very tranquil 😊
  16. 2 points
    My charger did fail but I was able to repair it. I suspect yours has failed for a different reason
  17. 2 points
    As @Lutalo wrote, this is easy to replace. Because I have to readjust mechanically lift sensors in my XL that apparently is overtightened, I'll make a short video how to reassemble whole handle system.I'm afraid that you can face a problem in getting spare stems from your dealer Contact Ryszard from eunicycles.eu; I'm pretty sure he can sell you needed parts.
  18. 2 points
    I thought this might be interesting for cold weather riders. On my morning ride at -28c this morning the temperature on the wheel dropped by 4 degrees Celsius over the 16 minute trip. On the ride home (-18c) the temperature on the wheel stayed stable. Based on this, at around -20 or so it would probably be a good idea to put some sort of cold protection on the wheel for trips longer than about 20 minutes. I first noticed this on the Minus 33 video, where the wheel temp had dropped down to 10 degrees by the end of the trip (same distance, 6k). Wheel is an ACM2, other wheels will experience different results obviously. Interesting also to look at the voltage readings at the various temperature points: it actually goes up during the day after it warms up.
  19. 2 points
    A perfect EUC undercarriage wash system.
  20. 2 points
    I agree. They seem capable enough!
  21. 2 points
    I really don't think it is that syraight forward. Both electronics and mechanical parts are combined to make up an EUC. That itself makes predictions difficult. I will add more later to why. But in short it has to do with environment and how an item is used.
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    No worries. It's easy my friend. Forgive me for not having photos to show you. 1. Remove black handle from the trolley stem. It's one screw for each side where the handle meets the stem. 2. Remove the screw at the bottom of the stem that attaches to the sensor plate. 3. Slide out the plate at the bottom of the stem. 4. Remove the screw holding the thin metal band across the stem 5. Slide out the stem; you don't need to remove the shell cap. So, don't waste time unwinding a bunch of unecessary screws. 6. Slide in the black stem 7. Replace metal plate at the bottom; remember not to overtighten this screw. The plate should have a little play. I usually don't go past the point where the screw stops winding; no added torqueing. 8. Retorque the screw holding the metal band over the stem. 9. Repeat process with stem on the opposite side. 10. Reinstall the handle. 11. Test operation of new trolley; move up and down, and lock and unlock. 12. Replace outer shells. 13. Go riding. 14. Have fun.
  24. 2 points
    As my youtube career comes to a shaky beginning (I know, don't quit the day job). Electric unicycle day 7
  25. 1 point
    For those in the Bay Area i was riding back across the Golden Gate Bridge last night after 9PM. The cycleway is closed then and the pedestrian pathway has a security gate after 9. I pressed the intercom but they refused to open the gate. I was told that 'motorized' devices are not allowed on the either the Cycleway (west side) or Pedestrian way (east side) . So I was totally stuck. You just cant take the roadway as it is too dangerous. After a 'discussion' security sent a patrol car whom offered me a ride. The pickup was in the east car park. So an OK outcome but food for thought for any one contemplating a bridge ride. My own take is that if you cross before 9pm then the cyclway is pretty much OK and although technically EUC's aren't allowed, you can go across mixing it with the bikes as long as you don't bring attention to yourself. My only recommendation is that it sure is windy up there and the path is narrow so make sure you are confident on your EUC before attempting. Longer term, I guess we need to lobby about this issue as its nuts that EUC's are banned when they are both safe and practical and in the future I expect we will see a lot more of them. Unlike the bikes whom all seem to think faster is better and travel at dangerous speeds the whole time on that cycleway. Its just a matter of time before someone is knocked over the edge!
  26. 1 point
    Well sometimes my psi power is...bumpy or flat(lined). So I am going to find a small portable battery/usb powered pump/compressor. Need it from an EU site otherwise rediculous shipping time and taxes. As of the wheel, I am leaning to see the KS16X or KS18XL. In case I go XL, I plan to use the current KS18L on rainy/winter days and the XL being the "sunny cab" wheel only. The thing is going XL all parts like spare tyre and tubes are same size....and my EUC bodyguard from www.roll.nz will fit both wheels. Could be like a winter coat
  27. 1 point
    Don't buy this tire! It's got all kinds of nails and screwdrivers stuck in it...
  28. 1 point
    Absolut det kan vi göra, snart dags ju hehe. Ja intressant fenomen, hört flera säga det men jag har aldrig upplevt nån tilt back själv om inte inställd via app. Har provat högsta tilt back fart själv men går för sakta, vill kunna åka snabbare så blir ingen tilt back alls av mina pedaler, blir ju en vanesak på ett sätt och vet ju ungefär vart den brukar pipa för sista varningen och hör jag inte så släpper jag bara trycket lite till och från hela tiden, är ju just när man har max tryck på konstant och inte lättar bara fortsätter att mosa pkommer man ju garanterat gå i backen. När jag fick den var jag lite försiktigare själv med, men har alltiv varit sån och ge mig nån dag så känns allt slöare sen.
  29. 1 point
    Ok no problem but if you have any broken wheel for sale let me know. I'm pasjonat and i'm working on great upgrade it will be uniwersal for most of wheels it should increase distance but for now i wont tell anything untill i make it and test it.
  30. 1 point
    Actually it is what seage says. My phone does not vibrate when i only turn on phone alerts either...
  31. 1 point
    There is option, as you said pedals and boots need to have coils one i pedal to charge second coil in boot, best way is to do footbed with coil and resistance wire as heating element. It's possible to do but main problem is that coils generate high electromagnetic waves and they could disturb hall sensors in engine. Simplest thing is to do contacts in pedal and boots. Now i'm on Ninebot one E+ and i dont think i'll be change anything it's not good base for any change, i also have Inmotion V8 but it waits for repair and i think 30km/h wont be enaugh, if i get something better i will propably mod wheel in many case. "Scatcat" what about yours GT16 (i mean this parts), that will be great base to do some mods, will you sell me?
  32. 1 point
    That would not good. The psi from the fountain’s nozzles doesn’t appear to be enough to force water into the shell’s cavities containing the electronics so you should be fine. We have a fountain like your’s in my area but it is always filled with kiddos in the summer. I have a feeling parents would tackle me If I attempted that.
  33. 1 point
    Yes. This telescoping issue is the same problem I had with the first and second trolleys I installed on my 18L. An additional issue that I had with both versions was the handle would lock in the retracted position. If I attempted to lift the wheel up from the ground, the handle would release. On my second handle, one of the stems would not fully retract so that the handle could lock. In both instances these malfunctions made the handle unusable. My third trolley is the black stemmed version supplied as original equipment on the XL. I have had no issues on either wheel with the black trolley.
  34. 1 point
    For learning to ride, you need the least equipment and can easily get away with no equipment (or at most wrist guards). You're too slow (like 20kph max) for really serious injuries, unless you have a super unlucky fall and break your wrists or so (but even that wouldn't be serious serious, just unpleasant serious). All you might have to worry about at this stage is your shins. The faster, the more gear is appropriate. Simple as that. So you shouldn't drop equipment with time, rather the opposite. People tend to gear up with experience (not just because of higher speeds, but because they ride more and think more "what if x happened now...?" and don't like the result of the thought experiment). Wrist guards are by far the #1 priority with EUCs. Don't bother with soft gloves, hard plastic slide plates of some kind are important here. Wrist guards whenever you ride, if only for a single meter. Knee guards and a (full face) helmet come second. Isn't the jacket is the least problematic part? You put it on and if it has shoulder/elbow/whatever protection, it's quick and easy and offers comprehensive protection. If it isn't too hot, what reason not to just wear it? Also, once you ride with gear, you might very well feel unsafe going back to less gear. I started with nothing, then wrist guards, then knee guards, finally a helmet, and I wouldn't have wanted to go back to less protection at every point, even though no crash happened (except one where the cheapo wrist guards clearly saved my hands from God knows what and I upgraded to better ones). In short, start with less (wrist guards only - always use wrist guards, period) and add with time the more you realize what could happen without gear, or just start right away with the gear you luckily already have. I'd say, for learning to ride, only use wrist guards. A helmet might be too hot for the sweaty initial phase and put you off. Once you can stay on the wheel and actually ride semi-relaxedly instead of going from step-off to step-off, the rest of the gear comes on and stays there Or start with everything if you don't mind. Go with your instincts there. But dropping gear with time is the wrong approach, unless it's occasionally for a slow (key word) and short supermarket run or such (wrist guards only is ok then). Most falls are just plain bad luck (even if they theoretically could have been prevented by "better" riding), so the chance of a crash is not about your riding skills and experience, and the faster you are, the worse it will be without protection.
  35. 1 point
    Moi, Tervetuloa foorumille. @mrelwood vastasikin jo aika hyvin tuohon kysymykseen. Olen itse aikalailla samaa mieltä. Itse laitan melko todennäköisesti ihan kohta KS-18XL:n tilaukseen ihan vaan isomman akun takia. Tykkään ajella pitkiä matkoja. Yksi vaihtoehto sulle vois olla ostaa mun V10F käytettynä pois, hintapyynti 800€. Oon ajellut sillä nyt vähän yli 3000 km ja tykkään edelleen. Vesisuojaus ja akun paketointi tehty ja kaikki kunnossa. Naarmuja kyllä löytyy, mut ne kuuluu asiaan. Max nopeus nostettu 45 kilsaan ja oon ite (75 kg) ajellut yli 40 kilsan lenkkejä melko kovaa vauhtia ja jäänyt akkuun vielä 5-10 kilsaa rauhallista ajelua. Vapautuu heti, kun tilaan uuden ja se saapuu. Kuljetus Helsingistä Tuusulaan tarvittaessa onnistuu. Budjetti tosiaan taitaa olla se tärkein asia tietää tässä vaiheessa. Halvemmistakin löytyy toimivia pelejä. Muista, että todennäköisesti haluat ajella kovempaa ja pidemmälle melko pian. Isompi rengas ei ole välttämättä parempi. Renkaan koko on verrattavissa vaihteisiin. Isompi rengas on pysyvästi isommalla vaihteella, eli kiihtyy ja jarruttaa hitaammin, mutta pääsee kovempaa ja tasaisempi kyyti vauhdissa. Sun valintaan vaikuttaa myös se, kuinka paljon haluat tai olet valmis "säätämään" teknisesti.
  36. 1 point
    @ir_fuelI am currently milling microwave circuits on Rogers 5880 microwave laminate, which is PTFE-based and only 7mil (.2mm) thick. At millimeter-microwave frequencies I can use nothing else (20mil FR4 stops working at about 20GHz). I haven't been able to find a Chinese (or local) PC house interested in making me prototypes. Most of them do not have the microwave substrate available, let alone the paper-thickness boards.. @esaj Yes, I center the origin on the double sided artwork, and then drill four perimeter holes equidistant just off the edge of the board. Then I only have to worry about reversing the artwork for the back. I found it helps if you drill via holes (etc) before flipping, as then you can instantly see if you are cutting the backside in the wrong places. I use 0.8mm copper rivets for the through-hole vias
  37. 1 point
    Yes I bet the round trip international shipping was expensive. Your a good dad. You tried and I’m sure your son appreciated it. You did put some miles on it.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks. I'm really hoping the "fix" doesn't involve any invasive procedures.
  39. 1 point
    Well seems simple enough, however I can't pull out the stem right now. If I clean out that black silicone I might be able to see why. I will have another view tomorrow and maybe make a short video of this, the problem.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Pffff ... you should stay with the times. The functionality he described has existed for years now on euc's. It can be found in the Pulse Glider, to give one example.
  42. 1 point
    Honda Fit and performance in the same sentence. It all makes sense now
  43. 1 point
    Hunka I didn't see you in there last night, Cindy was sad....
  44. 1 point
    The solution to this problem is the black handle. Not sure why the dealer didn't install it when they know full well that the old type is faulty. Contact your dealer and and have them send you latest 3d iteration Black trolley stems; the handle doesn't get replaced anyway. I have had all three versions on my 18L. The 1st two broke within two months; so you are fortunate. My 18L has been wearing the third version without so much as a glitch for close to 7 months. The third version will solve all of your problems. I suggest getting it for your sanity even if you must buy it.
  45. 1 point
    In my world there is no hype. If you have driven a late model Honda Fit, you will quickly notice that the car kind of guess what you want. Performance or Economy. I would just like to have a similar algorithm for wheel hardness or sensitivity... Cruise or Wild. I don't want to take my phone out to change sensitivity while I am riding...(Could open another can of worms, as usual)
  46. 1 point
    Toptip of the day 🤓
  47. 1 point
    I recently appeared on a TV show called "Car War" (la guerra del coche) about mobility. The channel was national, but put the program too late on the grid. I think I was trying to put perspective on the revolution of mobility and climate change. https://www.antena3.com/noticias/especiales/reportajes-a3n/vehiculos-movilidad-personal-luchan-asfalto-trafico-carril-bici-video_201902195c6dcda70cf28d1a9812e311.html
  48. 1 point
    Y'know ... the moment I hear the word 'influencer' I can't help but shake my head. 1.3k subs ....
  49. 1 point
    I've all the protection and i'm not push it too hard, just let it go. The more you ride and the more you naturally go faster with this wheel. And on you hit the limit and get tiltback, it's a really bad feeling. So the game is to find your natural speed limit, and for me it's 53km/h i've never hit more, so with the limit to 56km/h it's perfect for me, i don't take the tiltback anymore and the ride experience is a lot better. I'm not crazy, i just listen my body, my feeling and the wheel.
  50. 1 point
    Voice. "May I pass on your left please!". Weighs nothing...costs nothing...and informational so that in most cases people step to the right (although the muppets out there have been known to step left into your path). Most people thank me for warning them as I pass (too many joggers and cyclists just blow past slower traffic with no warning and little noise causing them to get a scare). Some however, in their own oblivious earbud music filled world, jump out their skins anyway but that is their problem for not being aware of their surroundings. I never pass if there is insufficient room. I just shout louder.
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