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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    A little clip from my ride today and testing the gps speedometer on the insta360
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    Great writeup / teardown by @EcoDrift, per their usual. Interesting to see the secret of the MCM5 being wider magnets, wider than those of the MSX & Nikola's motor. https://ecodrift.ru/2019/02/04/gotway-mcm5-part-two/ Gotway MCM5 (motor/controller), MSX (motor), Tesla (controller) Today we will study the main components of the Gotway MCM5 monowheel, and at the same time we will look at the MSuperX engine and Tesla controller. First MCM5 engine. This is an engine for a 14 ″ tire (bicycle size), although the native rim diameter is 10 ″ (automobile size). This is important in the selection of motorcycle tires, the dimensions of which are considered to be automotive standards, not cycling. The engine turned out weighty: 7kg with nuts and washers: Washers, by the way, are not needed, but the engine is separately supplied with them. Instead of washers, a large platform is now used, which protects the engine from turning. View of the engine from the end: It is really very wide. Wires are short: Marking (manufacturer: HB, production date: April 2018): Remove the engine cover: Open: The winding is tight, but not too neat: All engines are wound in manual. But the winding is quite dense, nothing dangles. Bearings in caps with a size of 6203 (this is important, since 6202 is usually put on 14 ″): Interesting surprise: The width of the magnetic 3.5cm. This is the widest engine that we met in monowheels. This means that the power available here is much more than in any other 14 ″ models. For comparison, the core Gotway MSuperX (MSX): The magnets on the rim are also 3.5cm: Magnets, unfortunately, not the best quality. Covered not with pure nickel, but with a cheaper nickel-copper alloy (yellow tint). Some magnets have traces of dirt, scuffs and even chipped. Do not forget that such a rim must be varnished before active use in wet weather to avoid corrosion of the magnets. Compare the wheel rim of the year 2016 with the MCM5, launched in 2018: Top rim from Inmotion V8. Magnets are covered with nickel, no chips were detected. But even visually it is clear how much such an engine is weaker than a modern monowheel. And now MSX (MSuperX) and its rim: 3cm magnets: The engine is very similar to the Nikola engine, which we disassembled at the end of last year. This is understandable. After all, 18 ″ differs only in an increased rim. The magnetic circuit is exactly the same as the number of magnets: 56. The winding is dense, nothing dangles: On the other hand, there are visible hand-wound flaws: The width of the core is the same as that of the magnets, as it should be: And now the controllers. The MCM5 controller was the first among the Gotway monowheels to be produced with field-effect transistors in large packages (TO247): Such a housing improves heat transfer and increases controller reliability. And the MCM5 and MSX really had no problems with the power unit. The reverse side of the radiator, on which the field-effect transistors are cooled: 4 capacitors: Marking close-up: The controller with a maximum voltage of 84V, so there are capacitors with a small margin of 100V. Bluetooth module for communication with the application: View from the end (you can see how the power transistors are located): MSX controllers are still equipped with the same field-effect transistors. And it is not yet clear whether Gotway will not switch to others, those that stand in Nikola. In the meantime, look at the controller from Gotway Tesla: Back side: Immediately installed fan: Two capacitors: Marking large: The board has 12 field effect transistors in a small package (TO220): Bluetooth card hid under the fan: In the next part, we will look at the MCM5 hull elements.
  4. 4 points
    I think the lack of a front wheel on Eucs and Segway type devices, will always relegate these devices to a curious activity for the adventurous. Having a front wheel to lay serious braking power into, without face planting is a major design necessity for mass adoption. Can you crash an escooter? Of course you can. Bikes, motorbikes, cars trucks too; you can crash them all but we all know that when trouble rears its ugly head to an EUC rider, there is a good chance there is going to be a price to pay in skin and maybe bone too. There are many escooter rental companies in the US, but not one EUC rental( no even a face to face rental agency type like for rental cars). Why? Anyone who can walk unaided can ride an escooter, whereas almost no one can ride an EUC. Escooters also have front wheels and actual brakes you can point at and say, "see! it has brakes" to the regulatory bodies with jurisdiction. The chance to injure yourself on an EUC is just too high for the great unwashed. And the learning curve is: a. too steep, and b. usually requires a hefty up front investment or a buddy with a wheel to lend. And who, other than die hards wants to dress up like Robocop just to pop out and grab a coffee, or get to the bus stop quicker. One would look like a real prat sitting on a mass transit device dressed like Robocop with what looks like a giant George Foreman grill between ones legs. There also seems to be a general lack of interst in them. I have been riding for over two years, my whole extended family knows I have one/has seen me ride it. Not one of them has asked to be shown how to do it. And other than an occasional spotty teenage twat who yells "give us a go" as I wheel by, only one member of the great unwashed has expressed a desire to give it a try. Fascinated, yes, intrigued, yes, impressed, sometimes, want to learn, mostly-no. Edit: How many strangers, friends, family members would want a go if I showed up on a Dualtron type escooter? I think something like this will be my next "EUC" after the KS16S I don't feel like I need any more power or speed. Although a bit more EDIT: Battery would be nice, for the power reserve it offers .
  5. 3 points
    I totaly agree with that extended family part, same here. Most reactions you get are, "how to do break", "how much did it cost" and after you get the "how long did you train to get that thing going", I would usually explain that it is like learning to ride a normal bicycle, you can do it in a few hours if you want. After that If you respond with, "wanna try I show you", you will get a "no way I don't wanna break my neck" :D.
  6. 3 points
    Different strokes for different folks, that's what makes the world go round, or something like that. I like Kuji's stuff as well.
  7. 3 points
    As i just dig a bit more into li ion cells and BMS in https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/12618-ks16s-damaged-battery/, here my gained insights and some conclusions. I'm happily awaiting corrections, additions and whatever else others find to improve this! Unfortionately we need the Li Ion cells in series to get usable voltages to drive our EUCs, which leads to a couple of problems. Mainly by different "aging" of the cells the weakest one gets "hammered" by the others and will be the first to quit working. From my readings the only real solution to have long lasting packs is perfect cell matching when producing battery packs! What provides the BMS to prevent premature cell degradation and keeps us safe (fire hazard): - overvoltage protection on cell basis: As in the above linked topic was stated for example the KS18L/XL BMS shuts of battery the charging input if any cell reaches 4.24V! Afaik this is implemented in all (brand) wheels BMS! This is very important for our safety as Li Ion cells react very badly on overcharging (venting, fire). - balancing: Afaik from different discussions/BMS fotos/datasheets normally used BMS provide passive balancing. From (2) "Passive balancing bleeds high-voltage cells on a resistor during charge in the 70–80 percent SoC curve; active balancing shuttles the extra charge from higher-voltage cells during discharge to those with a lower voltage." But (2) "A battery expert once said: “I have not seen a cell balancing circuit that works.” For multi-cell packs, he suggested using quality Li-ion cells that have been factory-sorted on capacity and voltage. This works well for Li-ion packs up to 24V; packs above 24V should have balancing. Most balancing is passive; active balancing is complex and is only used in very large systems." Some calculations and thoughts on this passive balancing from me can be found in https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/12618-ks16s-damaged-battery/?do=findComment&amp;comment=213962 and the following post. Sum up: Passive balancing seems to be very ineffective and can (maybe) equalize just some very small inbalances ... What a BMS does not provide: - cell undervoltage detection: (except the new ninebot BMS - they imo report cell undervoltage!) Normal minimum manufacturer specified voltage for li ion cells is 2.5V. Cells that were discharged under 2V(1.5V) for longer times (longer than some days, ~1 week) are likely to be dead and dangerous (3)! BMS of earlier wheels (maybe) had this check and shut off the output and caused faceplants in the middle of riding! So not shutting off by cell undervoltage is an improvement for rider safety, but one has take care onself once such dead cells exist in ones battery pack - it's unsafe and a possible fire hazard! So how to check ones battery state? First thing to check is always the charger! Most of them are cheap, not too "reliable" products and could over time misadjust to deliver less voltage. Output voltage can easily be checked with a Voltmeter, so one can exlude one source of error. - Easiest way: Unfortionately just for (new) ninebot owners : cell voltages are shown in the app (Did i forget some wheel brands with this capability?) For others: Driving range getting less, acceleration capabilities diminish, pedals feel "weaker"/not so responsive are signs of weaker (degraded, old) batteries. But this same symptoms are also shown when driving at low temperatures and not fully charged batteries (roughly <50%)! - The batteries cannot be charged fully: One has to look at the voltage reported by the app (manufacturer app, wheellog for android or darknessbot for ios). Reported charge percent are inaccurate and show 100% for a quite big range (6)! Full charged li ion battery cells have 4.2V and by this 67.2V/84V for 16/20 cells in series configurations. (4) So once one cell gets "really dead" (staying under 2V all the time and cannot be charged higher) and the rest of the cells will only be charged to 4.24V the maximum voltage that can be reached for such a pack is <65.6V for a 16s configuration instead of the 67.2V! (<82.56V instead of 84V for a 20s configuration). So by the under (4) and above mentioned limitation/inaccuracies it's advisable to note the reported voltage of the fully charged new wheel and then compare it lateron! Same for the charger - measure the output voltage at this starting point and make sure the output voltage did not get less. So once this "lower charging capabilities" show for a battery pack it's unsafe and potentially dangerous to use them! Repairing such a pack is in many cases unfortionately not worth the work (7). - Premature current "cut-off" while charging: The second stage of charging a li ion cell (constant voltage) (5) is ended once the charging current gets lower than some threshold depending on the charger (?~100 mA?). If charging stops before (because one cell reached this 4.24V) this is a sign of beginning imbalance of the pack. For people having a current meters (for example the charge doctor) installed can check this. Some sources and comments: (1) https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/serial_and_parallel_battery_configurations (2) https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/bu_803a_cell_mismatch_balancing (3) "Do not boost lithium-based batteries back to life that have dwelled below 1.5V/cell for a week or longer. Copper shunts may have formed inside the cells that can lead to a partial or total electrical short. When recharging, such a cell might become unstable, causing excessive heat or show other anomalies." from https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/low_voltage_cut_off (4) Also voltage measurement of our wheels can be quite inaccurate - some +/- 1V were reported... So checking this already with the new wheel and good batteries can give one a starting point... As mentioned above chargers are not the most accurate, so one has to start from the maximum voltage (no load) they can deliver and subtract something like 0.3-0.7V (for the voltage drop at the BMS input protection circuitry) to get the maximum voltage the battery can be charged! So for people, who are ready to open the wheel the battery voltage can be measured at the ouput of the battery pack with a volt meter. !!!! But one has to be very careful to not short this battery pack output pins accidently while measuring - they have enourmos energy and this will lead to dangerous situations! From molten metal parts from the ?test prod?/pins itself flying around to gas from the molten cable insulation till the whole battery pack going up in fire can happen !!!! (5) https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries (6) For some of the 16s wheels 66V/65.8V are still reported as 100% battery charge! (7) https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_repair_a_battery_pack Further readings: A great paper in regard to li ion cell matching and balancing: https://www.ti.com/download/trng/docs/seminar/Topic 2 - Battery Cell Balancing - What to Balance and How.pdf
  8. 3 points
    Afaik WH/cm³ is worse for ultracapacitors than for Li Ion cells. But their advantage is extremely fast "charging" - so they could be used as imtermediate storage once much energy has to be "taken" like with strong braking. In the table on https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/whats_the_role_of_the_supercapacitor is stated that supercapacitors have ~5 Wh/kg and Li Ion 120-240 Wh/kg ...
  9. 3 points
    34 studs was plenty, and the grip in snow, slush and ice over expectations. Even packed snow is now a lot more relaxed and actually quite a lot of fun. I drove over ice patches, packed snow, slush, concrete, cobble stones and asphalt today without a single slip. Speeds were moderate, about 25kph or so, as I tested the limitations and balance of the tire. I have almost fixed the wobble, the method turns out to be inflating it to a v.e.r.y low pressure, less than 0.7bar/10psi, and then pull/push it to correct how it sits - then inflate it to target pressure. In my case that is about 1.9bar/27.5psi or so. I suspect the very fat knobs would allow for good comfort and traction all the way up to the nominal max for the tire: 2.2bar/32psi. And going too low on this tire will make for an awesome rolling resistance on a hard surface, especially with the studs in it. I could probably add another 17 studs to make it grip on wet ice without any slip, but that would make it more uncomfortable where there is no ice or snow. My improvised mudguard works better than I hoped too - no splatter on me whatsoever.
  10. 3 points
    One thing I like about the fox pro frame is that it has a lot of large symmetrical holes that make it easy to affix my esk8 lights. I’m sure others would work as well, but from photos online this seemed to be the surest bet. This isn’t the only arrangement I’ve come up with, but it’s kind of star-wars-y, so....
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    Thanks Marty. There is no controller with the Skydio R1 you use an Iphone, tap the screen of the person you want to follow and it does the rest. You can have it follow, lead, 1/4 or full lateral follow, orbit,, etc. similar to a Mavic but with greater obstacle avoidance. Yes I noticed some of the erratice movements too. At times the drone was following me at 20 mph with 12 -15 MPH wind gusts which is the max this drone can fly in. Also a few times it flew near some tiny branches and then almost took the roof off of an approaching car so the obstacle avoidance kicked in. I still need to attach the Insta360 X to my Mavic to see what happens. I have mount. I just need some time. As you are fully aware....I love experimenting. Edit: @Marty Backe I just learned that the Skydio does not like to fly into ‘low horizon’ direct sunlight. That explains some of the jerky behavior. When the sun is low on the horizon, it can temporarily blind the R1’s cameras depending on the angle of flight. Your R1 may be cautious or jerky when flying directly toward the sun.
  13. 2 points
    Hey guys, Another shameless promotion of my first ride with the 17" Gotway Nikola prototype!
  14. 2 points
    For me there are two main reasons why EUCs fail to become a revolution in transportation at the moment. By far the biggest problem here in central europe at least are laws or missing laws considering this vehicles. This is not only an euc problem, many modern transportation devices suffer the same "gray area" problem. In germany for example you can't legaly drive anywhere except offroad. And in many countries where you have a regulation the speed is officially limited to 25km/h. Basically everything that can go between 25km/h and 45km/h is a gray area. There is no middle ground, and EUC just fit perfectly here. Personally I think there needs to be a 35km/h vehicle catogory where you are allowed to use bike lanes and lets say you need to use a bike helmet. Same applies to e-bikes that can go that speed very easy. 45km/h is difficult, it would hurt the euc usage a lot if you can't go on bicycle lanes. But with that speed it just not gonna happen. You will need an insurance plate like mopeds, thats the only way. The second problem I see at the moment, is that this devices are more seen as a toy and not a real transportation device. This comes along with point 1, and also is related to the prices. My wife for example asks me why I need a more expensive toy. This is in her mind, and its hard to fight that. Less expensive entry level devices would also help I guess.
  15. 2 points
    "You just need a good "You lookin' at me, obstacle? I'm riding here so you better deal with it!" attitude" "It helps to accelerate a bit into it with a little "fuck you" push movement" @seage your learning is so interesting. You have so many advanced skills, but, due to the weather, your basics are nowhere. It's a real upside down situation. Once you get somewhere where you can ride for miles without interruption (even around a large parking lot) ALL these issues will go away, and your basics will have a chance to catch up.
  16. 2 points
    So I put it on. a CST C-803 2.5-14 tire. In reality it is just about as wide and high as the original ChaoYang. At least counting the full span of the knobs. I have a hard time balancing the tire though, as it (as usual) came from the seller slightly off-round. The beads were stiff as all h*ll, and required some manhandling to wring on, but still seem to sit a bit loose against the rim. The result is that the tire is a bit wobbly, when you let it spin. I use the correct tube, a 2.5x18 tube, so that isn't the problem. As a motocross tire the max PSI is just 32, and the typical PSI on a dirt-bike would be just 18-20 or so. I've been pulling on the tire to make it settle better and it's almost good. But I suspect I'll have to ride it with the remaining wobbliness for some miles before it will fully regain its supposed shape. I do wonder however what would make for the fastest way to make it settle, running it on a bit higher pressure 25-30, or lower 18-25? I'll have to try it out tomorrow, and see how much of a problem it is in reality. I've screwed in a total of 34 studs. The treads have 17 repetitions in pattern, so each got a stud per side. I rather start out with fewer studs and add more as needed, than the opposite. The racket if you go full bore and add 85+ studs would be unbelievable on hard ground with no ice. Last year I used 48 a lot less powerful Schwalbe studs on a 16" Mad Mike tire, and that made all the difference - so 34 best-grip studs should be a very good start. Given my experiences with the Mad Mike, I foresee this tire will have a lot better grip and handling on slush and packed snow. But it will affect range some, and be a bit more awkward at speeds above 35-38kph, especially if I ride with really low pressure. But the goal was not to set any speed records. I'm totally happy if I can ride 30-35kph in reasonable safety.
  17. 2 points
    Modularity Make it easy to remove and change the wheel. Have an option for summer/winter tires. I live in Canada and I use my V8 for commuting. The EUC will become a lot more valuable if there are good winter features so I didn't have to take the bus 4 months a year. You can justify a higher price for these kind of features because there are direct monetary savings involved. Make it easy to remove and change the batteries. It would be nice to allow the user to choose the trade off between range/battery capacity and weight. If I'm bringing this on a plane, I need to keep the battery below 160Wh. If I want to do a long distance trip, then I need to pack as much batteries as I can. It would be nice to have multiple battery pack options that can be removed/changed easily by the user. Removable batteries also allow carrying spare batteries for situations where it is not convenient to charge. Removable seat Overall I think it would be great if you sell EUCs by motor class like 500W, 800W, 1200W and offer modular battery, wheel and accessory options. Having a large ecosystem of accessories and turning your product into a platform would really help satisfy all the niche demands.
  18. 2 points
    I can't believe it was 55 degrees on Sunday. Similar as the winter thaw last year but this time no tragedies.
  19. 2 points
    We will look forward to seeing the footage in spring (when you and your GoPro thaw out and are discovered)…
  20. 1 point
    I am quite concerned about your health, as staying on an EUC in difficult riding situations is a skill you are not likely to have after a week or even a month or two. Going down at 30km/h is not a gimmick at all and can lead to severe injuries much more likely than at 20km/h. Apart from being illegal, I can only strongly recommend not going that fast before to have ridden a few thousand of kilometers. Of course I can't make life choices for others.
  21. 1 point
    Ok, here is what I can remember from this summer. I started learning to ride backwards after about 100km training (about 1month into euc driving). First of all I don't think you should start try moving in circles backwards, thats more difficult and can be learned later. Just learn it where you have a lot of space and where you don't need to look behind you all the time. As allready mentioned you will turn as soon as you try to look behind you. So how did I learn it. First I allways started from a normal forward motion, and from that transitioned into a backwards move by slowly breaking and just continued until I moved backwards. I made a much bigger progress when I started to twist the wheel left and right while moving backwards on purpose. It did stabalize me quite a bit and with more practice you automatically minimize this twists. I don't if that is the right term to decribe it. Its like you do it on a bicycle if you try to balance it when you stand still with it, if you know what I mean. When I started turning while riding backwars I found it white counterintuitive the way you have to look. You allways look at the outside of the circle you wanna drive. But I wanted to look inside the circle. So far that isn't something I can do, don't know if that is even possible without an expert level. Also I think it should be something that someone riding euc should learn quite early on, it makes you a much better rider and many maneuver variations are suddenly possible.
  22. 1 point
    The Z10, I affirm that it does not turn, it is a joy, because the one that turns is not the wheel, it is you, with the other wheels, to twist the foot of the turn and the wheel turns, you are only correcting that turn. The Z does not twist, you are the one that twists, turning only when you want, not when you want the wheel. It's just getting used to the change
  23. 1 point
    From last week's Bay Area esk8 ride with riders from SF, LA, NYC, DC, Philly, and beyond.
  24. 1 point
    Oooh that's just ridiculous , i use my euc to go everywhere if i can it saves using the car, I've not had any bother off the police they just look, so the country has got to try cut down on traffic and bump the prices up on fuel to combat this , now that alot of pevs come out they just want to ban ,,i hope you get it back
  25. 1 point
    It’s funny because “kids” are more up to date and know more about modern science than you “adults” who still believe in the 20th century studies you learned during world war 2.
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