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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    This wheel is amazing. Just logged 62 miles today which included a climb to the top of Griffith Park in Los Angeles and I had between 20%-30% battery left afterwards. Not sure how accurate the app is with distance, but my legs are jello! Oh and I weigh about 185...
  2. 5 points
    You sound like a wheel newbie with all your excitement Welcome to the long-range club. As @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer" suggests, is that 62-miles as reported by the app, or GPS? Most of the KingSong and Gotway wheels are about 10% off. That would put you closer to 56-miles. That range seems consistent with what I did last week and I also had ~20-percent remaining. And I also had about a 500-foot elevation gain. The KS18XL does have a marvelous range
  3. 5 points
    It's absolutely batty to get this much range! I wonder if the route was actually that long. I'll have to get a tracking app to verify these distances. I didn't go to the sign. I went up the back side past the helipad and came out by the Greek, then over to the river trail, then to Burbank, Noho, Van Nuys, then back to Noho...🙃 And yes, thank you again for bending my arm enough! Soooo happy to have all this range!
  4. 4 points
    To my Knowledge: There is a Firmware difference between 18L and 18XL, giving the L a slightly more safety Buffer when it Comes to Speed reducing. The Advantage the XL has is that because of the more parallel packs 6 instead of 4 the voltagedrop is less (mathematic 50% less, in real life not that high) However, boards on the 18L/XL (latest versions!) are the exact same and ALL KS wheels use the same Firmware. The Firmware adjusts the Wheel Settings by registering the Wheel over it's Serial number. So NO, a board swap is not needed, when someone would do a battery upgrade, however, what you would Need is a Serial number Change! That also goes to 14d to 14s upgrade, boards, wheels are exactly the same.... Other than that a 18L to XL battery upgrade is not that easy! Because of the Special cell configuration, you can not just throw in a additional 518wh pack, as this 40 cell pack would not fit into the Wheel. Special Solutions are needed….
  5. 4 points
    *Snooty look* Non-Gotway riders learning the joys of big batteries
  6. 4 points
    Next time on your ride invites, please include the fact that we will be stopping at HOOTERS. Don't worry about the fact that my wheel will probably run out of power there, I'll find my own ride home.
  7. 3 points
    The left cover shell on my new King Song KS18XL came loose after a couple weeks at around 500km. When it happened, I took off the cover shell and found that it is screwed to the body through nuts that are semi-embedded into the body and glued. My first attempt at repairing was to super-glue all of the nuts back on. It held for another 100km, but pulled apart again, and then the right side shell cover also started having the same issue. Knowing that re-gluing was only a temporary fix, I was determined to come up with a permanent solution. I decided that backing screws would be the strongest, but the original screws were too long to allow a second screw through the other side. I recognized that the screws are the same as used in computers for securing a motherboard to the chassis, so I started searching through the screws I had accumulated over the years. I found that I had the correct length screws and enough of them for the entire project. The replacement screw lengths are 6mm for the cover shell side (down from the original 7.67mm), and 4.75mm for the inside backing screw. I used a rounded head for the inside backing screws, but ideally the screw head would be flat and thin. The third of the five screws has a possibility of rubbing the tire. However, I've found that with the improved rigidity after the upgrade, there is no rubbing. Before the upgrade with the cover shells separating, the body flexed enough for the tire to rub against the inner side of the plastic body. I found many videos on YouTube with KS-18L disassembly instructions. I liked KingSong KS-18L tyre and inner tube change - disassembly - Justina's Garage (ep. 6). I figured that removing the wheel from the body would give me enough room to install the backing screws and I was right, but it was difficult and I needed a special tool. I used this PITTSBURGH Right Angle Screwdriver Set from Harbor Freight. Taping the screws to the bit helped a lot for the hard to reach holes. I hope that King Song incorporates this improvement into their design. I also highly recommend that anyone with a KS-18L or KS-18XL do this upgrade. Especially since I and rode with with the cover loose and lost one of the nuts to vibration.
  8. 3 points
    When @Jericho Das visited us from the San Francisco area we (myself, @YoshiSkySun, @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer", and @Tanabe) gave him a 50-mile tour of some of our riding trails.
  9. 2 points
    Pure agony, being limited to 65km (even less in winter!) But you can help alleviate the pain by showing up on the livestream. Any distraction in a cold winter and with shockingly small batteries
  10. 2 points
    @martybacke I don't know if there is different firmware, but if it isn't then there need to be at least different code paths to differentiate between when the KS18L and the KS18XL start to limit speed. The limit on the higher cell count wheel is set to a lower percentage of battery left. The 18l starts throttling at 50% and the 18xl starts at 25%. They allow this because there are more cells in parallel on the 18xl and and can collectively give enough current at lower cell voltages safely. The throttling has to happen at a higher voltage on the 18l and a lower one on the 18xl. So it's either different firmware or the controller need a way to determine what type of battery packs are installed. We'll hopefully know more if ewheels comes out with a 18l to 18xl upgrade kit and what it entails (either control board swap, firmware upgrade, or nothing) The same thing happens in the KS14d and KS14S. Think there is different firmware for the 14" wheels since upgrading a 14d to a 14S requires a control board swap.
  11. 2 points
    Before EUCs, I'd never spend "that much money" on a frivolous novelty like a VR headset. After EUCs, these seem laughably cheap. Cheaper than a V5F, lol. "Pricerton window" shifted successfully. Only reason I don't have one is because I might invest that money into a wheel, who knows what the future holds
  12. 2 points
    That's pretty good range,especially on a hill laden ride.I'll bet you're happy you waited for the XL over the L.The range telemetry from the wheels is usually off a little to the minus by up to 10%,at least on my KS and GW wheels, I always wear a GPS watch for comparison.Did you ride up to the Hollyweird sign?
  13. 2 points
    HOOTERS!? <pokes head out of VR headset permanently attached> That should be posted up as a VR video! Seriously, everyone should just go get a VR setup (Oculus Rift, HTC Vive Pro, PSVR, Samsung Odyssey+, what have you). It's the greatest thing since... since... EUCs!!!
  14. 2 points
    Soon you will feel like Tinkerbell on a leaf.
  15. 2 points
    Yeah I've been reading and trying to learn as I progress. Switching from a starter Ninebot One S1 to this KingSong today is night and day. I feel like I've never ridden an EUC today. The S1 is nimble and weak while the 18xl has power but doesn't turn as easily. I'm liking the challenge but I feel like a bull in a china shop.
  16. 2 points
    We, the rider make a nomenclature distinction between the L and XL; the manufacturer does not. The app will report the XL as an L. This also initially confused me, because I also have an L. When connecting the wheel the app kept showing me 18L when searching for the device so I thought it was finding my other wheel and failing to locate my XL; Not! 😅. Finally, it dawned on me to tap the 18L icon, and Lo-N-Behold my XL lit up like a Christmas tree. 😁😂. Long story short. To Kingsong, the 18XL is just an 18L.
  17. 2 points
    I remember when i rode the first day, not so long ago, when i had the first click. I took a deep breath told myself to relax and most important i found was to put my arms down, i had to force them to stay down, but with that i could ride nearly without a problem.
  18. 2 points
    You must have bionic vision. I checked your reference points and still saw nothing
  19. 2 points
    Twisting at the waist (counter steering) is an action both beginner and experienced riders need in order to have quick and complete control of their wheels. Even those using body action to turn their wheels are mostly using counter steering. First, let's look at what counter steering is. https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/how-to-ride-motorcycle-body-steering-vs-counter-steering-riding-tips-how-to-steer-bike-keith-code Peg weighting can account for, generously, perhaps 1 or 2 percent of steering. Do it if you wish, but understand that without the countersteering inputs at the handlebars, a bike will not weave through cones at 15 mph, carve precise lines at speed, avoid a pothole, or enter your driveway. It isn’t steering. Here is a wonderful example of people trying to learn to ride an EUC. Note the reliance on tilting the wheel to keep the contact patch underneath them. That doesn't work so don't do that. You need to twist at the hip in order to keep the contact patch directly under you. An EUC fundamentally behaves like a bicycle with an invisible rear wheel, and therefore you can imagine your legs as the front forks. Here's an example of very slow bicycle riding. Note how strongly they twist the front wheel to keep the center of the contact patches underneath them. Now imagine if the front wheel was locked in place and they had to solely use their bodies. There would be a huge amount of body leaning. Interestingly I'd wager all EUC riders (especially those of us who are ride mechanical unicycles...hehe that includes me) would win that contest and it wouldn't even be close. For new riders, learn to twist at the hips sooner than later. For experienced riders, make a concious decision to be very aware of how your wheel works via counter steering; it will allow you to quickly place your wheel within half an inch of wherever you want. Even though our heaviest wheels are 1/10 the weight of motorcycles, there's still a lot of mass there, so much that I'd wager about 80% is counter steering with 20% or less is actual body leaning. You can confirm this by simply sitting on your wheel and trying to turn it using only your body weight. It can be done but you really have to yank on it. Again, learn to twist at the hips as soon as possible.
  20. 2 points
    @meepmeepmayer, I really don't think more speed is the answer right now. As he said he's afraid of the speed. He's a new rider, and he comes off regularly. So what? Let him run off at these low speeds and walk away every time. Adding speed this early would be problematic and potentially dangerous. Tomorrow, he will come off less, and less still the day after. He's riding fast enough in my opinion. Right now, new neural pathways are being formed in his brain. They form through this repeated practice; just like guitar or piano or anything else. By this time next week (assuming it doesn't rain for a week) he'll be doing just fine.
  21. 2 points
  22. 1 point
    Oooops, was drinking last night 😂,just realised, correction, Z10 Power lapse nightride from Robert Navarro,
  23. 1 point
    Nice! I never thought I would be buying a Mten3. Now that I have the big boys (expect the Monster) I am looking to the Mten3. .. Everyone says that they are soooo fun to ride..... “ You can spin around and dance and do tricks” If I can’t dance without the wheel I don’t see how having one will teach me to dance! But on the other hand when I am trying new monuvers I start out on the KS16s and then when successful I move up to the bigger wheels.
  24. 1 point
    Well, it would be immodest of me to comment on that. By the way, here is a photo of a recent group ride I participated in:
  25. 1 point
    Hi So built this a while back but thought i would share here
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