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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Forget 18". You need a 22" monster, the 22" can do everything the 18" can do but the 18" can't do anything the 22" can do. Plus, who needs to carry it? just flatten things that get in your way, steps, curbs, etc all get flattened by the might of a 22 incher. (removes tongue from cheek ) 14 inchers suck, but what do I know? I only learned on one and rode it over 1000 miles on all types of terrain including the beach and mountains. For me personally the drawbacks of 14" were specific to my wheel: small battery(340Wh), violent tilt back at top speed (19mph), Form factor ( sharp protrusions at ankle height forced me to wear sponges in my socks on EVERY ride), cracked axle. Non of these issues exist in any of the wheels recommended so far. Think carefully before you take advice, and do a little research about where the advice is coming from. 18" are big and heavy which can cause problems. I remember a certain contributor to this forum in an almost life and death situation a while back, partly caused by the unmanageable weight of his large diameter wheel. A bit like Gilligan's island without the humor and voluptuous co stars, and coconuts. Having said all that, @Lutalo hit the nail on the head. You may get the perfect 14, 16, 18 inch wheel and you will STILL want to upgrade. The temptation of new, shiny pretty things is hard for most of us to resist. The reason most of us are not wheel hoarders like @Marty Backe and @houseofjob is that we have more pressing uses for our limited funds. YMMV
  2. 4 points
    People upgrade wheels because learning to ride the wheels transforms outlook and behavior. They start out thinking that they will use a wheel a certain way. Then they learn to ride. Then they get good at riding. Then they get even better than that. While they are improving, they are becoming wiser. They start to discover all the ways that they want to use a wheel, but cannot because of its limitations. The mountain that was on the first day of riding has effectively Become a molehill. Now they want a new mountain to climb. What once offered freedom now enshackles. Time to buy an 18XL.👍 The acquisition cost is higher with 18" wheels, but so is the value IMHO. How do you upgrade from an 18" wheel? I learned on an 18" wheel. I rode that same wheel like a maniac for over two years before purchasing my next wheel; an 18L. If I had purchased a 14" I might have bought at least one additional upgraded wheel before getting to that 18L; three purchases in total. I still own that original wheel. Its still going strong, and is still very much in use. My son uses it now to tool around on his university campus. I am one of those who suspects that 18" wheels, in the US market at least are inevitable. Most US buyers will end up with them because they simply are best at handling our uniquely hazardous road conditions. The combination of power and comfort make 18" wheels the most capable and safest wheels on the market. So why not start at the top 😉👍
  3. 4 points
    When @Jericho Das visited us from the San Francisco area we (myself, @YoshiSkySun, @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer", and @Tanabe) gave him a 50-mile tour of some of our riding trails.
  4. 3 points
    OK, now that it's looking like air travel with an EUC is inherently risky, lets consider that Mten 3 upgrade. I love my Mten3, but it would be fabulous to upgrade to a 12" tire, width of 4 inches, and bump up the motor to at least 1500w. A real compact, zippy, torquey, rocket ! Im in.
  5. 3 points
    I advise practicing how to fully bail from your wheel before learning anything else, as bailing is a neccesary skill that is easy to learn, and you can do it safely indoors in the winter without damaging your place. --Commit fully to the bail, and do not try to save your wheel. That means don't drag one foot. Either on or off. --Bend slightly, knees bent, arms well above the waist like you're in a ready basketball stance. This gives you an excellent chance of landing on balance with your shins away from the pedals. --You might be able to reach down and grab the wheel with one hand post-bail. Hop on, hop off, and do that a thousand times before learning to ride, and you'll have an excellent chance of avoiding the dreaded pedal to shin hit. (When I pulled my first wheel out, it felt much heavier and more serious than what I expected. Getting on felt absolutely impossible.)
  6. 3 points
    THAT is -unfortunatly- the Point! About 95% of international Airlines have forbiden SelfBalancingUnits AT ALL! No matter what battery size, no matter if batterys can be taken out, and no matter if they are batterys in at all. And that isn't new ...in May 2016 i wanted to Transport a NO battery KS16 from Bangkok to Germany. NO Chance at all, even so as i have a well documented case and papers from KS Thailand that the Wheel has NO batterys and so isnt dangerous anymore. Nope: General rule: No SelfBalancers on board, not in handluggage, not in your baggage... I had to leave it at the Airport at a baggage pick up Station and i was even accompanied to the station by some air port staff, which wanted to be sure i just dont just put the wheel it in my suitcase! On later Research at home i found out that this rule is implemented by nearly all international Airlines, they just dont want to deal with all Kinds of different battery devices and the hoverboard damages for sure are a reason of this rule. So they give themself even stricter rules than the 100wh/160wh IATA Lithium rules. Just to be on the safe side….and have less work in examening such Thing.
  7. 3 points
    That argument can be applied to anything. The indispensability of a compressor in a fridge isn't what makes it a compressor by definition. Same would go for a resistance in a light bulb or the magnet in a speaker. All three items are an indispensable part of the device they're a component of, but the term we use to refer to them, as well as their definition, isn't based on their indispensability, but on their specific characteristics and function. Regardless, whether you're on a bicycle, in a car or on an EUC, if your feet aren't touching a/the pedal(s), you aren't activating squat. I agree that it doesn't make an escalator a pedal, but I don't think an escalator is a comparable example: firstly, because the motion sensor is not on the tread itself, but built into the "rail". There's a more direct connection between an EUC's pedals and the sensor: it involves direct (and directional) input, as opposed to a simple motion detector that could be mounted 20 feet from the escalator (so it switches on when you enter the lobby, for instance), whereas the sensor on an EUC has to be on the EUC. Secondly, a motion sensor doesn't actually control the escalator's movement in a meaningful way: it merely acts as a relay that switches on a timer, which controls how long the motor stays on. The function the pedals serve on an EUC is much more complex: they control forward and backward motion, and are sensitive (or rather the sensor is) to small variations in pressure, allowing for precise throttle and braking control. That fits the definition of "foot-operated throttle, brake, or clutch control in a motor vehicle" perfectly. I'm going to have to disagree with the "involuntary communication" part of your argument. In my case, at least, the input I transmit to the sensor (via the pedals) is quite voluntary But back to the terminological discussion, I have a feeling you're trying to adhere to a strict definition that doesn't take into account the innovative and unique aspect of an EUC. Think of it this way: the first type of pedal ever put into use was the treadle, (from Old English: tredan, "to tread"), which is a "pedal or lever operated by the foot for circular drive", first implemented in potters' wheels and later in sewing machines. Treadle is now considered archaic, so such mechanisms are commonly referred to as pedals. Yet the term "pedal" was also used for pianos, later bicycles, and eventually, cars. The nature of these mechanisms differs considerably, but we humans tend to look into our existing lexicon first before going to the trouble of coining a new term, and accept new usages as part of the linguistic evolution that occurs alongside human progress (if you could ask a Greek from the 5th century BCE what a "hard disk" is, he'd probably refer you to the Discobolus). Consider the differences between how a piano pedal interacts with the strings, bicycle pedals interact with the drivetrain of the bike or an accelerator pedal in a car interacts with the car engine. The same would go for the pedals on a Tesla. No one is arguing that they should no longer be called pedals because of the fact the input they provide is managed electronically as opposed to mechanically. Language (or rather its users) allows for adaptability. What we now refer to as the pedal of a sewing machine or a bicycle was originally, by definition, only something that turned a "reciprocating motion into a circular motion". Yet despite the fact it didn't fit the definition perfectly, we accepted its usage for automobiles and adapted the definition because it was the best match. Why should it be any different with EUCs? Nothing similar had ever existed until they were invented: two foot-sized platforms that one stands on, which transmit our forward/backward leaning motion to a sensor that, in turn controls a motor. In the absence of a new term (gyro-foot-platform?), "pedal" is the closest match (Why don't we say "car foot levers", for instance?). Sidenote: The definition of pedals mentions nothing about weight-bearing. But anyone who rides a mountain bike or doesn't risk getting his nuts crushed when going over a large pothole or speedbump will surely tell you that pedals can indeed be weight-bearing. To cut my rant short, and since my argument is based on the evolution of the term "pedal", the simplest option is to go back to its etymological origin: the Latin pedale, meaning "thing of the foot". I'm sure we can all agree on that one, can't we?
  8. 3 points
    Yes, but the speedometer in the corner wasn't, and none of the moves that put him and pedestrians in danger didn't, not, happen because it was sped up. I once saw 52kph (32mph) when I glanced at it. I know that's not much in the automotive world but with one wheel , it would just take one car door to open or one pedestrian to step out from in front of a bus they just exited to ruin someones day. @Roadrunner yes, the wobbles were interesting. He seems to be an experienced rider, which seems to put a hole in the theory that wobbles are just a beginner thing. I found his camera mount quite interesting, but wondered if it might cause further injury in a fall. It certainly would have provided "interesting" footage during a face plant.
  9. 3 points
    If you buy a 18-inch, I strongly recommend the KS18XL for your situation. It's a fantastic general purpose wheel and almost feels like you're riding a 16-inch wheel.
  10. 3 points
    In my opinion, changed from experience and accidents, you should buy a rounded 18 inch wheel with fenders. Not a 14 incher. Not an 16 incher. It is the compact 18 inchers that are the true multipurpose all-rounders, and not the 16 inchers, because the 18 inchers can do everything the 16 inchers can do, but the 16 inchers cannot do everything the 18 inchers can do. As for the form factor, the round shape is the most compact, with the fewest edges to get caught on things, and the almost complete wheel coverage allows you to ride through damp areas without getting dirty. 14 inchers basically suck for actually doing anything practical and I say this from the viewpoint of a rider with three 14 inchers and who loves them dearly. 14 inchers are trick wheels, or can be used as true "last half mile" solution, but are entirely too difficult and unstable for anything else. Even then, you're better off simply lugging an 18 incher onto the bus/tram and dealing with the extra 20 pounds for 4 seconds over the 14 incher. Buy an 18 incher, then buy your 14 incher. Skip the 16 incher entirely, they have all the drawbacks of the 14 and 18 inchers without the benefits; unstable, short-ranged, nearly as expensive, etc...
  11. 3 points
    It all depends on what you see yourself doing with the wheel, and how realistic that ist. Personally, I think it'll be too slow in the end. I was also saying "surely I will never be going more than 25kph (=15mph)" before I got one, but 25 is painfully slow 2 weeks after you start, when you find out every regular person on a bike is actually going 30kph (= 18mph), and at least for me any general usage wheel with a sustained top speed below 35kph would be completely uninteresting (and tbh I'd expect 50kph (31mph) as normal even if I'll never get close to that). But that pertains to 16+ inch wheels, also I was always going for long rides ever since before I got my wheel, you went for 14 and shorter tours right away. Maybe it will be different for you. You can work with everything, but I believe the only 14 incher that might not want to make you upgrade is the MCM5. Not necessarily because of the higher speed, you don't go that fast with smaller tire/less stable 14 inchers anyways, but more because it's powerful and won't make you wonder what's our there that is better. The 14S is kind of in a bad spot, quite expensive already, and "better" wheels are getting close price-wise. The MCM5 has unprecedented oomphh/torque which makes it more unique with no obvious upgrade. The motor power ratings are just rough proxies for how much oomp a wheel will have, how powerful it feels. There's no difference in power usage between motors/wheels doing the same things, and the non-small (> ~600Wh) batteries are stronger than what any motor can sustain indefinitely anyways. There's zero negatives to a stronger motor. Just more fun and enjoyment Bigger (taller) wheels are actually easier to learn because your legs have better, higher leverage. Something like an msuper or V10 is probably the easiest. But you can learn on anything. Don't let that concern you. Don't worry about tire changes. Yes, it's a bitch, but you do it every 3000km/2000 miles or so when your tire profile has worn down, or if you have a flat which ist very rare, just like on bicycles, if you pump up your tire properly. And you can slime it, too. It's a less than once in a year thing that you'll have to do something with the tire. For reference, I never had a flat in over 5000km with the standard type tire. Never even bothered with slime. Don't let yourself be stopped from getting any wheel due to this non-concern. As you seem to be going for a my-only-wheel choice, my recommendation would be to think about how much you want to/can spend on a wheel, and think without preconceived notions what wheel would be the best for you. Maybe a 16 incher (the generally accepted allrounder size) is better for you? Maybe indeed a 14 incher? And then get the best wheel you can (best as in subjectively the best for you). Take your time and do all the research you want. The definite best tip is to trust your intuition. If you kind of want a 14S or feel it is the right one for you (or any other wheel), that's the right thing to do. Looks, ergonomics, everything - your (first) intuition got it. Trust it.
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    No, no, no. Far left. Don't you recognize the 'tache?
  15. 3 points
    Well, it would be immodest of me to comment on that. By the way, here is a photo of a recent group ride I participated in:
  16. 2 points
    Although there's now a ton of different Wheel models available to fulfill nearly every possible niche, the one area where there remains a void is a plane compatible Travel Wheel. The MTen3 has a lot going for it, but without easily removable battery packs, it really isn't designed to be frequently taken apart, battery removed & reassembled once you reach your destination. I'd like to see King Song take up this gauntlet & produce their own variant of the 10" format, but with modular batteries that can be easily slotted in above the motor similar to the MTen3, installing 20 cells on the side will make the Wheel too fat. Another advantage of a competing 10" design would be higher pedal brackets to fit the larger XL pedals. Beyond the application of a travel/portable Wheel, another advantage to the design is that the modularity allows it to be upgraded to fit the needs of a learner's budget, with a base model of just 20 cells (1 module), then slot in another module at a later date. The batteries can be provided in either a travel size of 158Wh (per side), or 256Wh (high capacity) flavours. What do you think? If such a Wheel were available at under $500, would you consider adding one to your Wheel collection? Here's the request I've put in with Tina.
  17. 2 points
    This is a thread in another forum, hope the admins allow the reference/link. Gang, if you haven't read this thread about the "Vostok 1" build, you've got to! If you're an engineer (as I am), you especially need to read this thread. It's long, so sit down after work with a beer and have some fun going through it. What is it? It's a thread about the self- designed/manufactured/built stand-up scooter that puts the Dualtron line to shame. Here's a picture, the thread has all the fascinating build details:
  18. 2 points
    Yeah I see something "blatantly jarringly bad": If you value that piece of furniture, don't practice so close to it, unless you want to be like the guy who tried to convince his wife those scratches and gouges 6" up the washing machine had always been there . Other than that, you're doing great. I wasn't doing that sort of stuff until i was weeks into my practice. You're well on your way to one footed mounts and the elimination of mounting aids. You will find that one foot mounting really speeds up your practice because you don't have to wheel back to the mounting aid to get back on. As @eddiemoy said; try not to grip the wheel when practicing. I know it seems counter intuitive, but gripping the wheel removes several steering options from your arsenal. Being able to flop the wheel from side to side between your legs, allow one to make minor directional changes/balance corrections at low speed, thus preventing the need for major directional changes. The wobbling may seem disconcerting at first, but it quickly becomes one of the weapons in your arsenal of skills. Watch any experienced rider when he/she has to slow right down to a crawl, and watch this "wobble steer" take over. Might as well learn it now, you will use it on every ride. One more thing @eddiemoy said "Use a wall or something to hold on to and mount. Then push off". I'm sure he didn't mean to push off with your hand. When I was using a mounting aid (tree, lamp post, old person), pushing off with my hand introduced an immediate imbalance and wobble, followed sometimes by a dismount. Simply orient yourself vertically (almost no pressure on the mounting aid) then roll away smoothly, then casually "remove" your hand from the mounting aid. Eventually the transition will be as smooth as glass. I don't know which tutorials you have been watching but "snug on the pads" is not the answer. Yes some people ride like that but it reduces your options, as stated above. See my recent poll on "to grip or not to grip".
  19. 2 points
    Avoid gripping the wheel. Don’t bother with mounting until you get the forward riding. Use a wall or something to hold on to and mount. Then push off. Going from static to moving is hard so the push is helpful. Stance is very personal. Stand how ever you feel balanced. General rule is mass centered over pedals. For beginner the feet close to the body is easier.
  20. 2 points
    @Marty Backe You have a stunt double...
  21. 2 points
    Based on your description, it has to be the MCM5, for immediate torque. You will reach 20mph within a distance of 15 metres. An XL will need double that, it doesn't have the torque from very low down. An 18XL will be heavy for you to manage on a daily basis, it weighs 53lbs, a 3rd of your body weight. Alot of skill and concentration is needed for the 14inch wheel though, do you have it???
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Anecdotally, the best 16 incher on the market...the Gotway Tesla...seems to be involved in the most gruesome accidents lately. And I think the Gotway acm 16 was responsible in @Rehab1 little get-off. While some argue that's par for the course, I argue that 16 inches is much too small to dampen speed wobbles from slight bumps for the 20 mph plus crowd. Really bad things start to happen around the 22 mph mark, and 18 inchers are many many times safer at those and higher speeds.
  24. 2 points
    So I'm hoping posting a little progress in here is okay since its so rough (Just filmed on my cell) instead of something nice and polished like whats in the video thread. I changed the position of my foot to a bit more forward on the pedals, wore shinguards to protect my aching legs and changed the wheel to experienced mode. I didn't do this to go faster, but just to kinda...react in time with me. Its a bit terrifying because of how fast it takes off so i might go down to medium when i get back outside (Im practicing basic mounting and overall balance and comfort/familiarity with the wheel while im locked inside. Its -8 at the moment and its gonna snow all tomorrow. And im no winterwheel, lol. Anyways, if anyone sees something from my little training session here that was blatantly jarringly bad, id love to hear! Any and all advice will help me to go from loser to rolling loser! Thank you! I'm also wondering if im standing a bit too wide on the pedals. I was watching tutorials and it seems everyone is a bit more snug on the pads. During my rides, my wheel shoots all over the place between my legs. If i tighten my stance a little and grip the wheel a little more initially, do you think that will help with the stabilization before getting more speed? (Seems to make sense in theory) I'd test it out, but its 5am and going to be snowing when I wake up.
  25. 2 points
    The biggest challenge with this is that most airlines have simply banned electric unicycles... As most staff will have never seen one before, it is impossible for them to tell whether it has batteries or not and whether it is safe. So the easy option is to just say, "No!" I think that if a "flight safe" model were to be proposed, it would need to get airline (and maybe TSA) buy-in before anyone would be willing to take the chance on flying with one.
  26. 2 points
    According to their site, they allow Segways to brought onto the ship but only used offboard. So the same should apply with EUCs or any other personal electric vehicles. https://help.carnival.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4090/~/carnival-prohibited-items
  27. 2 points
    I believe it wouldn't matter. Just as they won't allow a wheel on a plane even if the batteries are removed, you'll never convince the rubes out there that not all batteries are lithium ion. We're screwed
  28. 2 points
    Is that you are the far right?
  29. 2 points
    Nice video. Hey, weren't you in a James Bond Film once? Yeah, "For Your Eyes Only". I knew you looked familiar
  30. 2 points
    I think this guy has a death wish! 🤔
  31. 2 points
    Well I have put 50 miles on my mini with the ShallowBot firmware. I love it. It does everything it did before just no tilt back and no beeps. I love the extra speed. It does do what I call a stand up when you reach the maximum power of the battery. It's not aggressive like the forceful tilt back. If you're leaning forward and reach the maximum power of the battery it slightly stands up, no tilt back though. The only downside is the battery drains much faster when you go over the 10.9 mph factory speed limit. I am sending in my other control boards to have them done. Thanks @Ninebot.run
  32. 2 points
    Just today, I taught my 13 year old daughter and 2 of her friends how to ride on a ninebot one E (beater wheel). Her athletic friend picked it up in about 20 mins and was riding by herself. My daughter and the other girl took a little longer, maybe about 40 mins. All three girls learned and got the "click" and was riding by themselves amazingly in one learning session. These kids picked this up so fast it is really unbelievable. It took me 3 days to learn to ride and it was exhausting for me, sore feet and shin, sweating like a dog as I was exerting too much energy and effort. These girls were laughing and giggling the whole time while learning and they seemed so relaxed as opposed to when I was learning, I think that made a big difference as well.
  33. 2 points
    Back in September me and some fellow intrepid explorers (@csmyers, @Nick McCutcheon, @Klin, @Chairman S, and @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer") climbed 4600 feet to the top of Mount Wilson. This was my formal test to see how the Z10 performed during a long continuous climb. I made this trip a handful of times with different wheels. It's a great test for a wheel. I finally got around to editing the footage from the ride. Hope you enjoy it.
  34. 2 points
    What do you mean "one day"? I'm doing it right now.
  35. 1 point
    As far as I'm concerned, one can ride the F.U.C.Ks alone or share their F.U.C.Ks with someone else, especially if you're using extra-comfy, tightly fitting Pedal-Unicycle-Support-System-Yielders...
  36. 1 point
    He flips down the dark shield later in the video. I think in a few years time it will be like a scene from Star Wars Clone Wars, where there will be hundreds of clones riding around on their EUC's.
  37. 1 point
    Recived the s5. First quick impression is that the unit compared to the zero is less agile. So turning radius is bigger.To be more agile I can place mine feets on the pedals more from the units base. So the unit can tilt more in the direction that I want to.when placing mine feet to the unit base it has a steady feel. The height of the unit it doesn't cut in the shin/calfs. It's now charging up.its it weights more then the zero. The tire was a lil bit soft so I pumped up to 45psi.its kinda a cramed to screw on the extension pipe on the valve. Have installed the android app from this forum. Is this the app that will unlock the 40km per hour? Bc i dont see it. Or is it unlocked after 50km distance? Edit: I got the app now from a member here that unlocks the 40km per hour option.
  38. 1 point
    I'm equipped like when I do motocross, and I wouldn't conceive of ridng without.
  39. 1 point
    What scares the shit out of me are his massive whobbles he is getting, in many of his videos. I would shit my pants if that would happen to me.
  40. 1 point
    I won't disagree, but you have to admit that @YoshiSkySun is "ACM sized" (no offence intended Yoshi). Can you imagine a Fat Unicyclist riding seated on an ACM?
  41. 1 point
    Thank goodness for that, otherwise he would be a massive pr*ck for riding like that!
  42. 1 point
    Since Airlines have a hard on for Lithium Ion Batteries, is there a case for an alternate power source for this type of wheel, a battery chemistry that is not known for thermal runaway?
  43. 1 point
    Shot! You haven't seen me ride. Like a drunken sailor on the deck of a heaving ship. They'd never get their sights on me
  44. 1 point
    As other told you, it is very normal to feel like that at the start. My story: I'd say I had good balance before I learned, but still it wasn't easy. The first day I did like 2h and my legs hurt for a whole week, I could not try again for a "long" week! After that I added a lot of soft sponge padding with double sided tape (which later was a bike seat gel cover on each side) to avoid that happening again. You may attach them to your leg too. I kept the gel cushion forever as it made it mich more comfortable and avoids pain. (KingSong 18L is the only wheel for which I didn't need extra padding). That 2nd week I took it easy and continued to go forward and backward on the handrail, 1h a day, for the whole week, trying to slowly get used to get a bit of speed and go on a straight line without the handrail. After 6 days/hours, I was able to try to start turning, it was a bit of a small space, but I managed to start turning with quite enlightenment control, maybe tool 1-2 days/hours. After that, communing to work daily on the path at 12km/h (top speed) using street furniture as help to step on the wheel, for like a month, until I learned to step on it without holding onto anything haha.
  45. 1 point
    I suggest you find a Facebook group or other way to contact the Munich community, if there is any, and ask if anyone would be willing to lend or rent one to you, and maybe even go for a ride with you. Some people have more than one unicycle and will be happy to lend/rent one if they trust you enough (from your online profile/s)
  46. 1 point
    Moin, gerade über die DPA verbreitet: https://www.greenpeace-magazin.de/ticker/scheuer-plant-sonderverordnung-fuer-hoverboards-e-skateboards-co-0 Nordlicht
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Thanks! My point on the V5 is that there is a market for 14" EUCs, but no real choices. Many of us on this forum purchased the not so beautiful Gotway MCM5 because it is the only 14" with enough power for experienced riders. I would much rather prefer to buy a new and upgraded 2019 model 14" x 3" InMotion V5G I don't even care if you kept a similar design / shell, as it is still excellent! Either way, thanks for listening!
  49. 1 point
    Hey guys. This is Liam from Inmotion HQ. Sorry for being late. For the past few months, we have been through a lot. Thank you for your constant support to Inmotion. And I also really appreciate that Jeffrey and Bob spending lots of time and effort here to help you guys. I'm here to help with our crew. Question about Inmotion is various from a different kind. Are we done? Nope. Actually, we are still growing and keep providing service all the time but maybe in a different way. One more thing, we are not brought by any company Are we listening? Yes! No direct service in this forum. I have to admit that. But we are not leaving you guys alone in this forum. As you can see, the update of the Inmotion App is still on the go. That's because we are listening. Hundreds of emails from the customers every day have been solved by our service team. How to get help from Inmotion Global? If you have any after-sale problem, you can send it to service@imscv.com. (The best way to get help is to offer SN of your Inmotion Vehicle and illustrate your problem in the email. Then you will get help within 24 to 48 hours. ) If you have any complaints about the distributors or the deal, you can send it to marketing@imscv.com. You can also send it to my email: liam@imscv.com Sorry again for not being about to show up earlier.
  50. 1 point
    After the main event a few us use rode to the ocean and then up to Santa Monica. From left: @YoshiSkySun, @Jeffrey Scott Will, @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer", and me.
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